More ways to learn about my latest antics: Website - www.confoundedmachine.com Instagram - @confoundedm Patreon - www.patreon.com/confoundedmachine Thanks for watching!
Really respect that you showed the error. That helps me a lot...process matters! thanks 😊👍
Před 4 lety+4
Super Blue is: - 80%+ water - 1-5% Selenious acid - 1-5% Nitric acid - 1-3% Cupric nitrate - 1-3% Cupric phosphate (Where's NileRed when you need him?)
Thanks for showing the mistakes. I find I don’t learn when things go exactly as planned. When things go sideways, especially at enormous cost, that’s when the deep learning is really happening.
Birchwood Casey steel blue is not permanent, it rubs off quickly and is no good. Does anyone know if there is a permanent way to blacken brass? I suspect time and heat will be required.
Surface prep, surface prep, surface prep. Even after that this isn't a permanent process...you could clear coat it to give it a bit more protection but its still just a surface level treatment. I find roughing the surface by glass bead blasting, cleaning in acetone, and then only touching with gloved fingers produces the best results...the more smooth the surface the harder it is for the oxidized coating to stick and the easier it rubs away.
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to do this with a brass ring but it was NOT turning out, apparently following the directions on the bottle is my issue.
Hehe thanks! For a brass ring there are some better chemicals out there (products I've since moved onto using). A company called Jax makes some stuff more suited to everyday wear items :-).
Hey man I'm a cymbal enthusiast as well, I'm looking for a way to modify some old cracked cymbals. Did you try using the product in the video? My advice would be to not do anything to your cymbals if you want the sound to stay exactly the same. I've cleaned cymbals with bar keepers friend which turned out fine. If you want to coat them or polish them with anything, some people use wax or car polish. Poly sounds like a bad idea, it's a hard chemical bond that might deaden the sound or flake off. Another thing never to do is heat a cymbal. I'll come back and comment here if I end up succeeding in blackening my cymbals.
Seems to depend a little on the grade of brass you are working with, also depends on the shade you are after. I find super blue gives the most black finish (while being more difficult to produce a flawless coating). Proper brass patina chemicals seem to produce a much more consistent and durable finish but usually give a more grey patina. Just to add more complexity to the mix surface finish of the brass (polished, brushed, bead blasted, etc) also changes the way each chemical reacts. If you have the means I suggest getting both and experimenting to see what you like best.
I need to blacken stainless steel for an optical testing instrument. Flat, non reflective black preferred. Curious if so-called gun bluing produces a black finish, was it true of the stainless steel accident also ? I couldn't tell from video.
This isn't gun bluing, this is blacking. Bluing is a different formula. How mat black do you need it? You can buy a small tin of vanta to air brush on if you want serious absorption. (When looking up bluing and blacking on CZcams you get pretty random results of people calling bluing blacking and blacking bluing, so be extra careful!)
How deep does the stain go? I want to do this to a mech mod and then polish it up to a mirror shine after. Im guessing I should sand with a lower grit, stain, then sand with like 1000 grit (brass can be polished to a mirror around 800 grit)
Its very surface level but after many MANY more tests I found a polished metal finish cleaned super well will get you some stunning results. I would suggest bringing your mod to the mirror shine you want, clean the bejesus out of it, wipe really well with alcohol, allow to flash off and then apply the finish. You can hit it with some ultra fine steel wool after that if you want to give it a little depth, a vigorous polish with cloth will also produce a really nice shine (oddly enough I have an example of this finish on my saved Instagram story, should you want a pic). Best of luck!
It's cyanoacrylate so it's acting as an etching solvent, length of duration before you mute it in water will affect the depth. I'd suggest getting some scrap round stock, testing 10m, 30m, 60m, 120m, and even longer if you prefer then snapping them in half and looking at them under a microscope of any magnification to see clearly how deep each run went. The problem is results always vary when etching, environmental issues as well as brass from one manufacturer not being the same as another.
No way is brass going to be a mirror at 800. Unless you have a different definition of mirror. Polish your item up to 5000 and then switch to paste and then liquid polishes. Finish with a high quality auto paint swirl remover and then you'll have a mirror.
Assuming the solution has selenium dioxide (or selenious acid), reacting with the metal surface producing copper selenide, wouldn't that be toxic in daily skin contact?
@@jaywalker1842 Well as a chemist you are going to have to let me know if its all marketing BS (the MSDS is nearly identical to the gun-blue stuff....but I know "nearly" is the key word in this instance). Its made by a company called JAX (they make solutions for all kinds of metals).
I saw a product that was made out of brass, but the guy ended up "bringing the copper out" out of somehow - so it looked very coppery. I've been digging forever, but can't seem to find out how anyone can do that. Seems like that anyone that knows how to patina in creative ways has their processes on lockdown lol.
leave the brass in citric acid = it will strip out the zinc leaving copper. Its my worse enemy co i make brass products and have tp clean them in acid.
Cool video, I'm really enjoying the chronicles series! Just thought I'd let you know there were a few rendering/editing errors at 3:166:24 and 7:43 it's flashing something for a frame.
please speak more slowly.... when you came to the critical item... actually what it is you will use i heard 'soogoo or gungoo '/ The fast speaking blends your words together making it hard to follow precisely and you obviously really know what you are doing. respects
That is about the most polite way someone has ever said "slow the fuck down". I am sorry I speak too quickly, gross part is I try to speak slower on video...you'd hate me IRL, I'm a mumbling manic speaking mess! Thanks for the comment...ohh and I think my 'gungoo' mumble translates into Gun Blue by Birchwood Casey.
Are you aware you can easily slow down the speed of any CZcams video? Speed them up to if you want. It's a built in function in the CZcams app. Just wanted you to know if you didn't already. 🙂
Excellent. This may help me restore some of my vintage watches.
I just had the most bizarre epiphany of my life! I’ve never used 500 grit sandpaper! 😀 thank you.
Really respect that you showed the error. That helps me a lot...process matters! thanks 😊👍
Super Blue is:
- 80%+ water
- 1-5% Selenious acid
- 1-5% Nitric acid
- 1-3% Cupric nitrate
- 1-3% Cupric phosphate
(Where's NileRed when you need him?)
Thanks for showing the mistakes. I find I don’t learn when things go exactly as planned. When things go sideways, especially at enormous cost, that’s when the deep learning is really happening.
Haha, enormous cost is the perfect descriptor! I couldn't agree more!
Cool Moog shirt 👌
This is helpful. Thank you 😊
Also, Cerakote is fantastic stuff. Can’t recommend it enough.
I agree! I've played with the clear in the past on pens, really interesting coating.
Process matters, yes so does telling us what your using to make it black.
1:34...hopefully that's the detail you are seeking...if not its a product called Super Blue, this specific one is made by birchwood casey.
Did you not watch the video? He did!!!
Birchwood Casey steel blue is not permanent, it rubs off quickly and is no good. Does anyone know if there is a permanent way to blacken brass? I suspect time and heat will be required.
How would I take black paint off brass. So I can paint it in anodised paint and also can you anodise brass please I'm new to this
Why does my blackening come off. The brass is clean. But somehow the coating dosent want to stay on the brass
Surface prep, surface prep, surface prep. Even after that this isn't a permanent process...you could clear coat it to give it a bit more protection but its still just a surface level treatment. I find roughing the surface by glass bead blasting, cleaning in acetone, and then only touching with gloved fingers produces the best results...the more smooth the surface the harder it is for the oxidized coating to stick and the easier it rubs away.
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to do this with a brass ring but it was NOT turning out, apparently following the directions on the bottle is my issue.
Hehe thanks! For a brass ring there are some better chemicals out there (products I've since moved onto using). A company called Jax makes some stuff more suited to everyday wear items :-).
what was the mistake you made? you said you were trying to make it easier for people, was that wiping them with acetone vs dipping in acetone?
I believe that was it, dipping didn't fully clean them while wiping has the added mechanical cleaning effect which made the difference.
Good job..👍
Would this work on my cymbals without changing the tone? I imagine a thin coat of polyurethane should seal it nicely. If so, what is it you're using?
Hey man I'm a cymbal enthusiast as well, I'm looking for a way to modify some old cracked cymbals. Did you try using the product in the video? My advice would be to not do anything to your cymbals if you want the sound to stay exactly the same. I've cleaned cymbals with bar keepers friend which turned out fine. If you want to coat them or polish them with anything, some people use wax or car polish. Poly sounds like a bad idea, it's a hard chemical bond that might deaden the sound or flake off. Another thing never to do is heat a cymbal. I'll come back and comment here if I end up succeeding in blackening my cymbals.
So what’s better for blacking brass “black brass” or “ super blue?”
Seems to depend a little on the grade of brass you are working with, also depends on the shade you are after. I find super blue gives the most black finish (while being more difficult to produce a flawless coating). Proper brass patina chemicals seem to produce a much more consistent and durable finish but usually give a more grey patina. Just to add more complexity to the mix surface finish of the brass (polished, brushed, bead blasted, etc) also changes the way each chemical reacts. If you have the means I suggest getting both and experimenting to see what you like best.
I need to blacken stainless steel for an optical testing instrument. Flat, non reflective black preferred. Curious if so-called gun bluing produces a black finish, was it true of the stainless steel accident also ? I couldn't tell from video.
This isn't gun bluing, this is blacking. Bluing is a different formula. How mat black do you need it? You can buy a small tin of vanta to air brush on if you want serious absorption. (When looking up bluing and blacking on CZcams you get pretty random results of people calling bluing blacking and blacking bluing, so be extra careful!)
@@bashkillszombies I'm good. Old post .. bluing went on dark and served my purpose to remove glare from optical framework
How deep does the stain go? I want to do this to a mech mod and then polish it up to a mirror shine after. Im guessing I should sand with a lower grit, stain, then sand with like 1000 grit (brass can be polished to a mirror around 800 grit)
Its very surface level but after many MANY more tests I found a polished metal finish cleaned super well will get you some stunning results. I would suggest bringing your mod to the mirror shine you want, clean the bejesus out of it, wipe really well with alcohol, allow to flash off and then apply the finish. You can hit it with some ultra fine steel wool after that if you want to give it a little depth, a vigorous polish with cloth will also produce a really nice shine (oddly enough I have an example of this finish on my saved Instagram story, should you want a pic). Best of luck!
It's cyanoacrylate so it's acting as an etching solvent, length of duration before you mute it in water will affect the depth. I'd suggest getting some scrap round stock, testing 10m, 30m, 60m, 120m, and even longer if you prefer then snapping them in half and looking at them under a microscope of any magnification to see clearly how deep each run went. The problem is results always vary when etching, environmental issues as well as brass from one manufacturer not being the same as another.
No way is brass going to be a mirror at 800. Unless you have a different definition of mirror.
Polish your item up to 5000 and then switch to paste and then liquid polishes. Finish with a high quality auto paint swirl remover and then you'll have a mirror.
Assuming the solution has selenium dioxide (or selenious acid), reacting with the metal surface producing copper selenide, wouldn't that be toxic in daily skin contact?
Possibly...I switched to a process designed for wearable jewelry quite a while ago, seems like the better option.
@@CurtVanFilipowski Please share
@@jaywalker1842 Well as a chemist you are going to have to let me know if its all marketing BS (the MSDS is nearly identical to the gun-blue stuff....but I know "nearly" is the key word in this instance). Its made by a company called JAX (they make solutions for all kinds of metals).
I saw a product that was made out of brass, but the guy ended up "bringing the copper out" out of somehow - so it looked very coppery. I've been digging forever, but can't seem to find out how anyone can do that. Seems like that anyone that knows how to patina in creative ways has their processes on lockdown lol.
leave the brass in citric acid = it will strip out the zinc leaving copper. Its my worse enemy co i make brass products and have tp clean them in acid.
My old zippo is calling me
Nice ❤️
Cool video, I'm really enjoying the chronicles series! Just thought I'd let you know there were a few rendering/editing errors at 3:16 6:24 and 7:43 it's flashing something for a frame.
That's so strange! I can't find it in the original rendering, ghosts in the machine! Thanks for the comment. :-)
please speak more slowly.... when you came to the critical item... actually what it is you will use i heard 'soogoo or gungoo '/ The fast speaking blends your words together making it hard to follow precisely and you obviously really know what you are doing. respects
That is about the most polite way someone has ever said "slow the fuck down". I am sorry I speak too quickly, gross part is I try to speak slower on video...you'd hate me IRL, I'm a mumbling manic speaking mess! Thanks for the comment...ohh and I think my 'gungoo' mumble translates into Gun Blue by Birchwood Casey.
Are you aware you can easily slow down the speed of any CZcams video? Speed them up to if you want. It's a built in function in the CZcams app.
Just wanted you to know if you didn't already. 🙂
.