What a joy seeing this - I have a 1987 2554 which I've owned from new, in black tolex not silver (I can't remember why I didn't get a silver one). This has been very informative thanks. And just checked - when I had it brought back to life in 2023 by a tech here in England (it packed up in 2008) - those caps were all replaced. I now have fallen back in love with this amp!
This is a bonanza! I have the exact same model, as a combo, and it's never been touched inside, so its caps are all going to be in that awful condition. Living in New Zealand, it's not like I can just take an amp to a great tech, as there's so few, so I've had to teach myself how to maintain my small collection. Thank you so much for all of you insights Lyall, and the fact that your videos are often real time and long form means it's like being in the workshop with you, or some kind of technical lecture theatre. You have also done videos which cover most of my other amps, (AC15HW, 65 DRRI, Super Reverb, Champ, Bassman, 1969 SLP) so in an oddly virtual way, it's kind of like you are my tech!!
That was nice of Lane's Guitar + Amp Repair letting you show his video on those LCR caps. Worth the $$ purchasing 'new caps' instead of spending $$$$$$$$$$$$$ on a new power xfmr !
I've got a giant-sized electric toothbrush, battery powered, made by Rubbermaid that's great for scrubbing and cleaning, especially in tight nooks and crannies. I use it all the time, on dishes, on Tolex, etc..... works great and saves wear and tear on my arthritic hands. I don't know if they're still available but it was only $12 at Aldi a couple of years ago ---- a real bargain. One of these days I also want to put a scrub-brush attachment on my cordless oscillating multitool.
@@PsionicAudio Yeah, without the occasional Q meltdown. And, the bitching about how an amp was made and how they could've done it better...but didn't. I watch you, Doug and up till recently the other guy and I wouldn't have the first clue as how to build or fix one but find it interesting. I also watch a lot of the interviews with these amp builders and find them interesting also. I think you should bring your amps to market...even Marshall started small at one point. Keep up the videos and keep taking time to live a little!
Such a timely post. I’m doing a cap job, cleaning and “whatever else is needed” on a 1986 4210 combo(2205 50 watt 112 combo) right now. Thanks for all of your hard work and awesome information.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can’t afford another amp so your help has been tremendous. Want to rebuild a 2205 I have and use the jubilee diode circuit.
I love the LCR cap video. Very good. I could never understand why Marshall did not put any kind of support for the PCB in these amps and the other like it. It only has the pot mounting tabs for support. I suppose it was just a cost saving measure.
Ever use a Bissell wet cleaner on tolex? Seems to help suck the goo out of the texture. Especially helpful on Ampeg blue check where it’s easy ti just keep pushing the goo around with out actually getting it off the tolex
Try some "Great Stuff" auto upholstery cleaner. It really works a treat on PVC based pleathers. I think Tolex was a registered trademark of General Tire or maybe ... No. It was General Tire. So was "Nubtex". Goop waterless hand cleaner removes stuff the Great Stuff cleaner won't. Break Free CLP gun cleaner lubricant and preservative puts a shine on dull Tolex without making dust stick to it too. That was an accidental discovery when a can of that Break Free leaked onto one of my personal blackface Vibroverbs.
Make your tolex repairs Prior to cleaning procedures. I use Mr Clean to remove tar and nicotine with the soft toothbrush then clean away the cleaner residue with a wet terry towel warm water only. Then use Meguires Leather cleaner conditioner. This will restore the original satin sheen of the tolex. And is good for the tolex. If it is ok for a leather seat in a Lamborghini, so yeah. i use it on all vintage and non vintage tolex and is correct. Note on the Mr Clean. It is the one that looks fluorescent yellow green like radiator fluid, and does the best job for tar nicotine.
7 years is the given life by manufacture for about all of the electrolytic caps . That from the very good ones. Film caps do last longer . 34 plus years is far beyond replacement. I do not use NOS electrolytic with date codes older than 7 years. Heat accelerates the aging process.
Does it happen that some caps age faster in certain conditions? I have -87 silver jubilee and it shows absolutely no sign of cap wear. No bulging, no hum and plenty of power. I have and have had several old amps with orinal caps, some from the 60s and never had a severe cap failure.i've recapped some amps when caps are bulging but no major incidents whoch would have taken out output tranny. A while back I was about to do a cap job on early 80s boogie amp and very reputable shop selling stuff and doing repairs told me boogie amps of that age rarely need a cap job and symptoms i have are because of work out powertubes (low power). Low and behold, that was the case. So I'm not sure who to believe. Roght now i think you should not be scared about this and there will be signs before amp completely blows up.
Not related but similar: I used to own VW with TSI engine, actually two of them. Repair guys told me how much there are problems with the timing belt. How they have changed it after 60Tkm and again after 120tkm in same vehicle. I did not have any issues. Same with the current bmw. This time it's timing chain that will fail and the whole motor needs to be replaced. Well, they are in business repairing stuff, obviously they see predominantly cars that need fixing regardless what is the actual fail rate is. As they are human, they will have an opinion based on what they have seen. Amps dont have a service interval, so i would assume the sampling is even more biased. I've done cap jobs when there are visible sings but not to be on the safe side and still never experienced major failure. Maybe some day i will and then I'll be wiser.
Those screws holding the feet to the bottom of the cabinet appear to have extra tic-marks or hash-marks in-between the main vanes of the "cross hatch" , which would indicate that they are actually Pozi-Drive screws and not ordinary Philips screws. Hard to tell for sure because I'm watching this on a small phone screen, but you might wanna check it out. Pozi-drive screws have *eight*, count 'em, 8 vanes! and they angles are different than Philips specs. Pozi-Drive are quite commonly used in British and European made Hi-fi equipment, especially speakers, and also on furniture such as IKEA. They are NOT the same as Philips and use of a Philips screwdriver on a Pozidrive screws will tend to slip and cam out and chew the heck out of the screw heads; and I know how much you hate it when ham-fisted people mar things unnecessary by use of the wrong tool or improper technique. Please accept my apologies in advance if I am not seeing these screws correctly; but if I am correct, I bet you'll find there are other places where Marshall is using them as well, and not just for the feet....
Hey Lyle, I've been trying to reach you regarding my '84 Fender Concert amp. Is there a reason you wouldn't be able to respond to my request? Please reach out so we can get my amp to you. Thanks.
409 is nasty stuff ---- horrible for your lungs and throat. Smells similar to lye-based oven cleaner too ---- not good. It will etch glass! Warm water with OxyClean crystals and a dash of dish soap is almost always my go-to cleaning solution; never seen it harm anything either. You can always try something stronger if need be. The OxyClean works great on nicotine tar, I don't know why and would not have expected it, but it does.
What a joy seeing this - I have a 1987 2554 which I've owned from new, in black tolex not silver (I can't remember why I didn't get a silver one). This has been very informative thanks. And just checked - when I had it brought back to life in 2023 by a tech here in England (it packed up in 2008) - those caps were all replaced. I now have fallen back in love with this amp!
This is a bonanza! I have the exact same model, as a combo, and it's never been touched inside, so its caps are all going to be in that awful condition. Living in New Zealand, it's not like I can just take an amp to a great tech, as there's so few, so I've had to teach myself how to maintain my small collection. Thank you so much for all of you insights Lyall, and the fact that your videos are often real time and long form means it's like being in the workshop with you, or some kind of technical lecture theatre. You have also done videos which cover most of my other amps, (AC15HW, 65 DRRI, Super Reverb, Champ, Bassman, 1969 SLP) so in an oddly virtual way, it's kind of like you are my tech!!
Where do I send the bill, mate?
;)
Man takes 3 days off; posts 44 repair videos in the three days back from vacation. 😁 Perfect work time viewing - learning a ton.
That was nice of Lane's Guitar + Amp Repair letting you show his video on those LCR caps. Worth the $$ purchasing 'new caps' instead of spending $$$$$$$$$$$$$ on a new power xfmr !
Still binge watching. Love these videos.
My first proper amp was one of these! Found a keeper first time out...!
Thank you for including the filter cap explanation. It is very informative.
I've got a giant-sized electric toothbrush, battery powered, made by Rubbermaid that's great for scrubbing and cleaning, especially in tight nooks and crannies. I use it all the time, on dishes, on Tolex, etc..... works great and saves wear and tear on my arthritic hands. I don't know if they're still available but it was only $12 at Aldi a couple of years ago ---- a real bargain. One of these days I also want to put a scrub-brush attachment on my cordless oscillating multitool.
Between you and Uncle Doug and the guitologist I am adding a lot of knowledge to how amplifiers work.
You can skip one of those and learn a lot more. And it ain't Doug.
@@PsionicAudio Yeah, without the occasional Q meltdown. And, the bitching about how an amp was made and how they could've done it better...but didn't. I watch you, Doug and up till recently the other guy and I wouldn't have the first clue as how to build or fix one but find it interesting. I also watch a lot of the interviews with these amp builders and find them interesting also. I think you should bring your amps to market...even Marshall started small at one point. Keep up the videos and keep taking time to live a little!
Such a timely post. I’m doing a cap job, cleaning and “whatever else is needed” on a 1986 4210 combo(2205 50 watt 112 combo) right now. Thanks for all of your hard work and awesome information.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can’t afford another amp so your help has been tremendous. Want to rebuild a 2205 I have and use the jubilee diode circuit.
Can't wait to see more restoration on this one! I use Fantastic and one of those dish/kitchen brushes on the tolex. Then sponge off.
Sadly I had two original Jubilees and sold both. One of my many regrets regarding gear.
Cool, another beast hits the expert's bench..! Love it, so varied all your videos...Look forward to this repair..Ed..uk..😀
Ah a true love of mine are 50 watt JCM 800's. I really miss my 2205.
I love the LCR cap video. Very good. I could never understand why Marshall did not put any kind of support for the PCB in these amps and the other like it. It only has the pot mounting tabs for support. I suppose it was just a cost saving measure.
The guy from Fryette amplification would tell you to keep those Caps if they work
The face of the cab above the face plate is called the valance.
shell out for some auto interior cleaner/conditioner and some viking brushes 👍
Maybe the longer wires makes it easier to pull the PCB and work on it.
Ever use a Bissell wet cleaner on tolex? Seems to help suck the goo out of the texture. Especially helpful on Ampeg blue check where it’s easy ti just keep pushing the goo around with out actually getting it off the tolex
Try some "Great Stuff" auto upholstery cleaner. It really works a treat on PVC based pleathers. I think Tolex was a registered trademark of General Tire or maybe ... No. It was General Tire. So was "Nubtex". Goop waterless hand cleaner removes stuff the Great Stuff cleaner won't. Break Free CLP gun cleaner lubricant and preservative puts a shine on dull Tolex without making dust stick to it too. That was an accidental discovery when a can of that Break Free leaked onto one of my personal blackface Vibroverbs.
Make your tolex repairs Prior to cleaning procedures. I use Mr Clean to remove tar and nicotine with the soft toothbrush then clean away the cleaner residue with a wet terry towel warm water only. Then use Meguires Leather cleaner conditioner. This will restore the original satin sheen of the tolex. And is good for the tolex. If it is ok for a leather seat in a Lamborghini, so yeah. i use it on all vintage and non vintage tolex and is correct. Note on the Mr Clean. It is the one that looks fluorescent yellow green like radiator fluid, and does the best job for tar nicotine.
I would have but I'm not making any of Tolex repairs on this. Thanks for the tip.
@@PsionicAudio You most welcome and no doubt we all look forward to the follow up videos on this amp, and a rockin sound check.
Love your videos! This may be a very random question but what temperature on the soldering iron do you recommend for most work?
700 for most. 725 for eyelets/turrets. 750 for PCBs.
Have you tried Tuff Stuff? I've found it works really well to clean and shine up tolex and vinyl.
Incredible ! Nobody took care of this pour thing. If I find a loose knob or screw or hex nut, I tighten it. It's not that difficult.
7 years is the given life by manufacture for about all of the electrolytic caps . That from the very good ones. Film caps do last longer . 34 plus years is far beyond replacement. I do not use NOS electrolytic with date codes older than 7 years. Heat accelerates the aging process.
Does it happen that some caps age faster in certain conditions? I have -87 silver jubilee and it shows absolutely no sign of cap wear. No bulging, no hum and plenty of power. I have and have had several old amps with orinal caps, some from the 60s and never had a severe cap failure.i've recapped some amps when caps are bulging but no major incidents whoch would have taken out output tranny. A while back I was about to do a cap job on early 80s boogie amp and very reputable shop selling stuff and doing repairs told me boogie amps of that age rarely need a cap job and symptoms i have are because of work out powertubes (low power). Low and behold, that was the case. So I'm not sure who to believe. Roght now i think you should not be scared about this and there will be signs before amp completely blows up.
Glad you haven't had a failure yet. I've seen plenty. Including in Boogies.
Not related but similar: I used to own VW with TSI engine, actually two of them. Repair guys told me how much there are problems with the timing belt. How they have changed it after 60Tkm and again after 120tkm in same vehicle. I did not have any issues. Same with the current bmw. This time it's timing chain that will fail and the whole motor needs to be replaced. Well, they are in business repairing stuff, obviously they see predominantly cars that need fixing regardless what is the actual fail rate is. As they are human, they will have an opinion based on what they have seen. Amps dont have a service interval, so i would assume the sampling is even more biased. I've done cap jobs when there are visible sings but not to be on the safe side and still never experienced major failure. Maybe some day i will and then I'll be wiser.
Those screws holding the feet to the bottom of the cabinet appear to have extra tic-marks or hash-marks in-between the main vanes of the "cross hatch" , which would indicate that they are actually Pozi-Drive screws and not ordinary Philips screws. Hard to tell for sure because I'm watching this on a small phone screen, but you might wanna check it out. Pozi-drive screws have *eight*, count 'em, 8 vanes! and they angles are different than Philips specs. Pozi-Drive are quite commonly used in British and European made Hi-fi equipment, especially speakers, and also on furniture such as IKEA. They are NOT the same as Philips and use of a Philips screwdriver on a Pozidrive screws will tend to slip and cam out and chew the heck out of the screw heads; and I know how much you hate it when ham-fisted people mar things unnecessary by use of the wrong tool or improper technique. Please accept my apologies in advance if I am not seeing these screws correctly; but if I am correct, I bet you'll find there are other places where Marshall is using them as well, and not just for the feet....
I'm aware. It isn't always an issue. Depends on torque.
Hey Lyle, I've been trying to reach you regarding my '84 Fender Concert amp. Is there a reason you wouldn't be able to respond to my request? Please reach out so we can get my amp to you. Thanks.
'Reform original caps'. Hey if that is true, hell why not 'reform' a new amp too? LoL
409 is nasty stuff ---- horrible for your lungs and throat. Smells similar to lye-based oven cleaner too ---- not good. It will etch glass! Warm water with OxyClean crystals and a dash of dish soap is almost always my go-to cleaning solution; never seen it harm anything either. You can always try something stronger if need be. The OxyClean works great on nicotine tar, I don't know why and would not have expected it, but it does.
Is your tetanus shot up to date?
In my opinion those are the most overrated Marshalls ever. I love most Marshalls....not so much those.