Shouldn’t be using red sleeving on harmonised colour cables . Should be brown sleeving to identify a live, also grey should be used for neutral and sleeved blue and make sure the connections are terminated within an appropriate box not just loose in a void wall
Just so people know the two cables he has coming down, one is the live feed (which he explains towards the end of vid) the other is the feed going up to the light fitting. By the way great video...
Hi, so you have taken your live (twin and earth) from your existing lighting circuit and connected that to where ? Apologies if this seems a dumb question
Whether supply from mains ring or lighting circuit, best to have a fused spur with 3 Amp fuse outside the bathroom, maybe above the door. From that, you can wire to switch, lamp, fan isolater, and fan. I use 1.5mm², 1mm², even 0.75mm² so long as it's good quality fine stranded flexible cable, preferably with bootlace ferrules properly crimped. With all the fiddly fittings, the flexible cable makes it much easier. If needed, I always use Wago connectors in Wago boxes or the switch box, never just sitting in the void. I've never yet seen a registered qualified professional electrician do a good job with this, even when I offer to pay more for a slower job, and I've installed boxes with conduit and string. They've always been sloppy, left connectors loose, dropped grommets, etc. Tbf, the connectors in switches are often poor quality, even in quite pricey switches, so they take time to wire up well. I do, now, know of a couple of diligent sparks who do domestic work but retired due to caring responsibilities
I only have an extraction fan with Permanent Live and Neutral. I know what to do with the Earth wire, but what do I do the light switch wire? Just put a sleeve on it or use PVC tape to cover it? Thinking I should just get a timer version instead.
Hi Martin . Permanent live is from lighting circuit .Instead of ceiling rose in a bathroom the connection is hidden in a wago box (that doesn't need to be available for inspection) in a stud wall above the door. As you know the socket outlets are not permitted in a bathrooms. Seb
Oh, yes, now it's clear to me. Thank you very much for the explanation. One more question, in order to do the neat job and deliver permanent live and the switched live - can I use one WAGO box to hide all the wires inside? Box will be easily available and visible on the attic.
If the fan is connected to the light switch and comes on with the lights and you want the fan to run on after the lights have been switched off you need a permanent live connected to the fan which has it's own timer.
Grey wire should be marked with blue sleeve not red as it's neutral, black wire should be marked with brown sleeve as it's the switched live for timed over-run. Please don't make videos about install's as it's clear your blagging your way through it.
Shouldn’t be using red sleeving on harmonised colour cables . Should be brown sleeving to identify a live, also grey should be used for neutral and sleeved blue and make sure the connections are terminated within an appropriate box not just loose in a void wall
A big thankyou. I have never wired an extractor fan before and this was a wonderful guide.
You should be using Grey as neutral.
Just so people know the two cables he has coming down, one is the live feed (which he explains towards the end of vid) the other is the feed going up to the light fitting. By the way great video...
Really clear and helpful advice. Cheers sparky
Hi, so you have taken your live (twin and earth) from your existing lighting circuit and connected that to where ? Apologies if this seems a dumb question
Anthony Buttle ，
Thank you.. well explained.
What size cable should we use for fan and fan isolator?
Very clear simple way and beautiful explaination. Thanks
Whether supply from mains ring or lighting circuit, best to have a fused spur with 3 Amp fuse outside the bathroom, maybe above the door.
From that, you can wire to switch, lamp, fan isolater, and fan. I use 1.5mm², 1mm², even 0.75mm² so long as it's good quality fine stranded flexible cable, preferably with bootlace ferrules properly crimped. With all the fiddly fittings, the flexible cable makes it much easier.
If needed, I always use Wago connectors in Wago boxes or the switch box, never just sitting in the void.
I've never yet seen a registered qualified professional electrician do a good job with this, even when I offer to pay more for a slower job, and I've installed boxes with conduit and string. They've always been sloppy, left connectors loose, dropped grommets, etc. Tbf, the connectors in switches are often poor quality, even in quite pricey switches, so they take time to wire up well.
I do, now, know of a couple of diligent sparks who do domestic work but retired due to caring responsibilities
Excellent video sir well done.
It's a horrible video!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great job
I only have an extraction fan with Permanent Live and Neutral. I know what to do with the Earth wire, but what do I do the light switch wire?
Just put a sleeve on it or use PVC tape to cover it?
Thinking I should just get a timer version instead.
Very good work
Great video
Hi, How would you connect a PIR motion sensor to this circuit to function parallel to the switch? Thanks
Great video. How do you get supply from ceiling rose? Do you need to open ceiling rose below?
Leave. The. Electrics. Alone.
Thanks so much bro
Where do you get the permanent live from? Spur from the ring socket?
Hi Martin . Permanent live is from lighting circuit .Instead of ceiling rose in a bathroom the connection is hidden in a wago box (that doesn't need to be available for inspection) in a stud wall above the door. As you know the socket outlets are not permitted in a bathrooms. Seb
Oh, yes, now it's clear to me. Thank you very much for the explanation. One more question, in order to do the neat job and deliver permanent live and the switched live - can I use one WAGO box to hide all the wires inside? Box will be easily available and visible on the attic.
Martin
Yeah man ...
Tnx nice presents
What if you just want the fan to work?
maybe you could show how to do shower socket
where is the explanation on how to install the wires in the light switch?
Connection need junction box, if it’s not on EICR will be C2 code
Would I need to connect low voltage transformer to the fan?
Only if you have a 12v Light built in
Hi, what is the extra live needed for, thanks
Extra live is there so the fan can continue running for few minutes even after the switch is off.
If the fan is connected to the light switch and comes on with the lights and you want the fan to run on after the lights have been switched off you need a permanent live connected to the fan which has it's own timer.
hi buddy. are you going to make any more videos? you have 1k subscribers from 1 video.
Do you need an RCD for these
All electrical items or circuits in bathroom needs RCD
OMG 😲
Jesus Christ.... The number of people saying, "Good job!" - No it really, REALLY ISN'T!
Black should be used as switched live not a neutral
the guy has a 12 volt fan. this looks like a 220 volt.
Your wiring colours are not as per IEE (UK) wiring standards.
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Grey wire should be marked with blue sleeve not red as it's neutral, black wire should be marked with brown sleeve as it's the switched live for timed over-run.
Please don't make videos about install's as it's clear your blagging your way through it.
Ww