How To Install Teckpak A74741Q Repair Valve in a 4L60E Without Removing Valve Body
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Producer of the video has created this to share his experience to aid your installation, but does not take responsibility for any missing or incorrect information in the video nor for any damage resulting to your vehicle by following in his footsteps.
This installation is applicable to 1996 through 1999 4L60E transmissions commonly found in S10 pickups and SUVs.
Installation of this component resolved error code P1870 and eliminated slippage at highway speeds in this vehicle.
Save yourself hours and take 10 minutes to drop the valve body carefully and keep it flat and level and don’t disturb the little check balls … this job can be so easy if you just remove the valve body! I’m not a mechanic and I did this in about 45 minutes (including removing the pan and reinstalling it !
Put the new valve in the freezer for an hour and as soon as you pull it out put the new one in. Goes right in
I installed this valve last summer . No more ttc codes and no more disengaging lockup .
Works great , just need a little patience on that retaining clip ! Big thumbs up on the video .
Found the Teckpak valve by running across this video. While I didn't use the method here, I removed the valve body the Teckpak repair valve did resolve my issue. No more harsh, late shifts and no more CEL due to transmission faults.
Javelin3o4 i have a 99 trans am with a newly built 4l60e when I take off from a dead stop or put in drive it feels like the tcc isnt locking up in first gear when it doesnt I get that 1st to 2nd hard shift it happens about half the time I already put in a transgo boost .500 boost valve do you think the TCC isolator valve could be the culprit? Had the builder take it apart twice and he couldnt find anything wrong clean fluid and no debris btw I have no trouble codes.
Mine didn't do the harsh 1-2 shift all the time either, however I was getting really late shifts after driving for a while when the transmission got up to temp. However I did eventually get a transmission slipping CEL. The part is cheap I paid 10 bucks on Amazon for it, but it took me a few hours to put it in since I had never done one before and you have to be careful not to lose any of the check balls in the valve body or have them move into the wrong locations. I don't think the builder will visually see anything wrong, my understanding is the bore in the valve body where the TCC valve is at starts to wear so it doesn't seal properly, the TCC valve goes in pretty tight I actually had to tap it in it eliminates the spring so it not a gradual open/close its either open or closed, you just have to be careful not to tear the o-rings, they do give a couple extra's just in case. This was in my 2000 Camaro.
Javelin3o4 yeah I started to notice it about a month after my 4l60e was built I have a cammed HC LM7 with ported heads and when its working right it takes off like a sob I thought I was going nuts I had a TCC go bad on my 99 Grand am and it felt the same way but that time I got A cel this time nothing but had the same symptoms sluggish take off in first gear into 2nd then after i replaced it it accelerated good. Oh and my gas mileage has gone down too.
I'd give the the new valve a shot. If I had to do it all over again I'd probably try the method for replacement used in this video.
Javelin3o4 yeah already ordered it $14 im gonna use this method I dont wanna pull the valve body either and this was already taken apart twice the guy I took it too is actually a good mechanic he prob missed it cuz its intermittent.
Best step by step instruction on YT good job.
The 'extra' o-rings are actually smaller diameter in case the bore isn't wallowed out enough to accept the larger ones. Thanks for the video-I'm fixing to do this this week.
I found this out the hard way... i swapped them 🤦♂️ had to redo it
@@jeffmitchell5244 whats the tell tell sign the O rings are too large?
This worked great for me, not nearly as hard as some people make it seem. The bungee cord is a great tip. Instead of grinding down my pliers, I bought a pair of tweezer pliers for $7 from harbor freight. Once I got the cap exposed about 1/4 or so I used another pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it out the rest of the way. I used a small hammer to gently tap the valve until it was flush.
Okay, maybe this works for some transmissions, but not mine, and from reading the other posts, I'd have to say quite a few can not be repaired using this method. What I found was that someone had done work on my transmission before, I am the third owner, and when they removed and replaced the VB, they installed a gasket and a separator plate between the valve body and the transmission housing, this is a normal situation. Being that the separator plate is steel , and blocks the area where you are trying to get us to push a retaining clip backwards up into the well, the plate blocks this from happening. Now maybe some transmissions were made with a cut out in the separator plate above the clip. That is the only way on earth this will work, with one exception, if the clip is actually shorter on some valves, it may be able to be pushed up into the well. Because the plate effectively removes the ability to push the valve retainer clip upward.
So at the very least, it would be a good idea to create an addendum telling people to look at the area where the VB meets the transmission housing and see if there is any sort of gasket material, if so, DO NOT PROCEED with this method. because all it does is piss you off and wastes between 5 and 8 hours total of the persons time, and it really pisses one off when they drop the VB and find a gasket blocking the top of the gap where the retainer clip is supposed to magically pop up into. Yes that was a real pisser. I wasted all that time when I could have dropped the valve body and popped the clip out pulled the TCC valve out and installed the replacement valve and buttoned it all up in half the time I wasted trying to make a procedure that was doomed from the beginning work. I understand that some people can make this work, and are willing to invest a few hours in trying to get the clip to move up, but it is NOT as easy as it is made to sound that's for sure, and a few hours are a HUGE waste of time IMHO. I feel like it should have a warning that if it does not lead to success in the first 30 minutes, drop the VB and get on with it.
I totally agree ! After 2 hours I just dropped the valve body and that was a lot easier and messing with that damn clip !
As a side note, when I dropped the VB, I found that three of the seven check balls were embedded in their respective holes in the separator plate. Had I not dropped the VB I would have not been able to get those out and replace the separator plate, which needs to be done once the check balls embed in the hole, it widens the hole do the ball will just get stuck as soon as pressure is applied.
So all in all replaced the bad valve, separator plate, screen filters (one was broken), put it all back together, and also installed B&M shift enhancer electronically makes the shift stiffer. About three hours, and it's still going strong.
Don't waste your time with this clip, just drop the valve body and check everything out. You will thank yourself in the end.
Got in to it today. 2001 ZR2, and same issue. There is zero clearance above the vb to get clip out. Was not comfortable dropping it, might be above my pay grade.
Thank you so much !!! I just put a new tcc valve in my 2005 trailblazer and the trans is like brand new. No more constant reving in overdrive. The complete repair ran me $82 and 4 hours of my time. This may not be for novice mechanics however. I did nick one wire n on my wiring harness inside the pan so be careful with plugs and wires inside pan.
swazie38 I just bought an 05 Trailblazer that is jumping in and out of OD, and shifts hard into 2nd. Other gears shift smooth. Was this the same issues you had? And do you have a link for the kit you used by chance? Thanks
@@Gen01Lee yes, sounds like the same exact problem. When in overdrive about 50 mph. I would watch the tachometer n would see a rev of 500 additional rmp with my foot in a steady position on the accelerator. I still have a firm shift between gears 1 and 2 like a shift kit has been previously installed but this fix seemed to make the shift not jerk as much on the 1 - 2 shift
Ok thanks, I’m just having a hard time finding the right set, it says something about canbus computers or OBD2. Not really sure if all 05 trailblazers have canbus or just certain ones. If you know what kit you had got please let me know or shoot me a link! Thanks for the reply.
ah man thank you so much for this video, it worked great. I took a pair of needle nose pliers and grinder the tips down a little and they fit in that slot perfect too squeeze the clip ends together! I watched this vid probably ten times before trying it and everytime I watched it I'd see something you did that I didn't see the previous view, again Thank you alot
Glad to hear another success story! I've still got the Blazer from this video and its still shifting great, have not touched the transmission since, so although changing this part was a huge messy pain it was well worth the time. Thank goodness for the folks at Teckpak for making this part to help a bunch of us keep our tired old S10's on the road!
What are the symptoms of the tcc valve fail i dont have 4th gear
Thanks for the hack. Totally worked. I think that some folks might be having trouble with clip because they did not bend the clip arms far enough. This was my issue at first. Also, like another guy on here, the reversed clip does not allow the wiring harness to seat back all the way down and pushes on the filter a bit. However, this did not seem to be an issue when reinstalling the pan.
Hi Andrew, another grateful viewer here. I've been putting this repair off for awhile but your video is what inspired me to tackle it at all. I especially appreciate at 7:00 - 7:10 where you struggle to insert the new part and tap it into place. I had the same experience and was a little concerned that I got the wrong part, or was putting it in the wrong hole or maybe had damaged the valve body during disassembly. I came back I watched this video again and saw that you also "stuffed" it in there; I feel better. I haven't yet put her all back together but if anything went wrong, it wasn't due to your tutorial, that's of sure. Cheers!
Glad it helped Dave, its certainly not a fun job but for a real cheap price and a bit of your time you can get rid of that pesky P1870 code and keep driving your S10 without pulling the whole transmission or valve body. I don't drive mine every day but it is still here and still running and shifting good. Last month I pulled a pretty large boat 150 miles without any issues and also been using it to launch and pull my brother's heavy fiberglass boat. Not that slipping in 4th gear has much to do with pulling a boat in and out of the lake but the point is its still working :) hope yours will do the same!
Andrew, I got it all put back together and she runs like a charm (so far). I actually drive a GMC Safari van in support of a Boy Scout troop. It gets loaded to the gills with gear and boys. I have S-10 HD leaf springs in back to keep from bottoming out. My biggest complaint with the tranny was the very hard 1-2 shift that comes and goes intermittently. I also had the OD indecision where it would hunt back and forth in and out of 4th. With any luck this fix will cure both. Thanks again for your video...
huge help! thank you for taking the time to post. Made the change and felt like a miracle when that clip landed on my chest. So far so good with the trans.
You are talented I been trying to get this clip free for 3 hours.. I’m dropping the valve body I don’t have the patience anymore.
Great video! Thank you for making this video! Definitely saved me from dropping the valve body! Again, thank you!
I tried and I tried over n over. I said screw that n took the Valve body down. Fixed it within seconds after that.
I should have just taken the valve body down in the first place.
Excelent video.. very informative and well instructed. Thank you,
thanks for this great video. changed mine today and error code is gone. went ahead and changed 1-2 and 3-4 shift solenoids at same time. appreciate you posting this. saved me a lot of money. the clip was very tough to get off. thanks again.
Wish it just was a little be more informative but that's just me thanks for the video tho helped a lot
The only thing I don't get is after you get the valve out the clip then just falls out or what?? And can you push it up too far and loose it?? Thanks
+Andrew Rudlang is there any potential of loosing the clip up inside the valve body?
So was the valve the only thing that you put in there? I’m just making sure because my whole process was different the spring and spacer piece was bsckwards. And I just need to make sure before I have to pull all this out again
That backwards installation was done in a shop when the entire trans was rebuilt. I have seen several Master Rebuilders do that trick. Its supposed to do something similar to the Teckpak A74741Q Valve.
I did exactly as you've shown but when I installed the new valve it goes in too far. Like the flat end of the valve seats 1/2 inch in. What's happening there? I only removed the old valve and the spring ahead of it. Is there suppose to be a space at the inner end? Do I install it only as far as getting the clip in to secure it?
great video I look forward to tryn this thank you
I cannot get the valve to go in when the old one came out I didn’t have a spring but there’s still a piece in there should I take that out?
Very helpful! Thanks
It looks like easy to fix. My 01 s10 showed that code too.
Looking to do this as preemptively on a 1997 Chevy Express 1500 with 131,000. Do you recommend any special tools factory tools? I don't mind paying for the right tools for the job if it makes my life easier. If not I will grind a needle nose. Thanks!
i am trying to push up the clip but it does not go
does it make sence that something is blocking the clip from the top?
Isaac Gordon yeah it’s like impossible
How do you put to the clip.
Do you have to put the spring back in or leave it out
Leave it out. The new part is longer than the old. The longer end replaces the spring locking the function out.
Is this the same on a 4l70e ? Can't find the answer anywhere
po 894 came up on my 05 z71 tahoe , it shifts firm from 1st to 2nd thats it and im getting bad mialage, will this fix it??
I did this in my s10 and it fixed the shifting issue but every now and then it'll go into limp mode on start up. Usually I can turn it off and back on and it's fine but the light stays on.
So you can't do this on a 2001 Silverado 4l60e?
Side note: dont use the spare o-rings unless you really have to. They are a size smaller and fluid can get passed
Jeff, since you're the newest comment maybe you can help. I installed a A74741QA which is the longer valve into my 2000 gmc sonoma. Truck doesnt seem to have lockup at all now. Is it possible that I need to switch to a a74741Q which is the shorter valve? I was under the impression if the longer valve fit into the bore it was the correct one?
I have both valves sitting here. one is about 3/8" longer.
@@fuckatjunk tbh im not sure. but if you call the company, they have a customer support guy whos very knowledgable and probably has the answer for you.
@@jeffmitchell5244 thanks for the response. I tried to call, they are closed this week for thanksgiving. Ill deal with it for a few days until then
Alright I had a question if I install this should I keep the spring out and just reinstall the the valve? Also should I change the solenoids while I’m in there or is that n necessary
does this fix a worn valve that cant engage torque converter lock up?
I have P0741, and P01870 . I suspect the problem is in the valve body and not the torque converter.
Brian Sansone
Yes, but use the correct valve for your vehicles year.
The original TCC valve is designed to soften the transmission’s shift; by easing line pressure during the locking and un-locking of the torque converter. This was done by allowing a spring loaded valve to move back & forth in the transmissions’ valve body as line pressure changes.This back and forth movement causes excessive wear in the bore of the aluminum valve body. This wear allows fluid to bypass the valve, causing the line pressure to drop so low that the converter does not engage properly. The computer, seeing the pressure drop, then increases the pressure from the pump in order to try and get the converter to stay engaged. This higher pressure is what causes the rough 1-2 shift that often comes along with these codes.
Your vehicle will have an OBD, OBD II or CANBUS computer that monitors your vehicles operating systems.
Early (96-02) model 4L60E’s will have OBD or OBD II control systems.The (03-06) model 4L60E’s can have OBD, OBD II or CANBUS systems, depending on the vehicle.
All 2007-up vehicles will have CANBUS systems.
The best way to determine which system you have is to use a diagnostic code reader. Your diagnostic tool should tell you what system that it is connected to when you plug it in.
What difference does it make if I have an OBD, OBD II or CANBUS system?
The reason you need to know what computer system is in your vehicle when it concerns an 1870 / 1728 code is because… OBD and OBD II systems are only monitoring to see if the torque converter is ON (Locked) or OFF (Unlocked). This means the TCC valve can simply be converted to turn the converter ON or OFF without causing the system to issue a code. Fitzall’s A74741Q and A74741QA convert the TCC valve to an ON/OFF system. O-rings are used to seal the excessive wear in the bore and prevent fluid from bypassing around the valve.
A CANBUS system is programed to look for a small amount of TCC pressure drop in the TCC circuit before the converter dis-engages. This means the TCC valve must allow the back portion of the valve to move in order to release pressure and allow the CANBUS system to see a pressure drop. Fitzall’s A74741CB TCC replacement valve has a spring loaded stem that allows that to happen. O-rings are also used to seal the excessive wear in the bore and prevent fluid from bypassing around the valve.
Are you saying that we can use Fitzall A74741CB in place of the A74741Q if your vehicle has OBDII? I purchased the A74741Q and I'm about to install it in my 98 2dr tahoe but I can't wrap my head around why there is no longer any spring loaded action with the A74741Q. It makes much more sense to use the A74741CB valve which has a spring loaded stem. I would assume that since we are removing a spring we should also be replacing some sort of spring action back into the valve. If I'm to use the A74741QA, what will be cause/effect of not having this spring action in the bore? I'm I correct by assuming the valve will now be stationary and not move at all? I understand the need for the O-rings which create a seal so fluid doesn't pass through, but now fluid will never pass through as which the original design was intended to allow under pressure anyway. Please help me understand before push this A74741Q stem into the bore...Thanks!
I'm sorry that I didn't see this earlier.
Yes, you are correct to assume the valve will be stationary and will not move when using the A74741Q & A74741QA.
When the back portion of the valve assembly is "pinned" so that it will not move, then the "lock-up" becomes an On-Off system instead of Pulse Modulation system.
It's kind of like a light switch with "Dimmer" being converted to a simple "On-Off" switch.
Also the A74741CB will not work in place of the A74741Q because the stem is longer on the A74741CB.
You can however, use the A74741CB if your vehicle has the late model valve (spring goes inside back portion of valve).
@@dalewilliams9102 f
I can't find one for my 05 Venture. Seems they are just for 96 through 03.
how do you use the bungee cord? I understand the stubby screw driver part just not how to use the cord along with
+drwombat Its basically just a workaround because I did not have another person to help, if you can get someone else to operate the screwdriver would be better but a lot of us are crawling around on the dirt under the car alone right? So I hooked the bungee cord on the crossmember towards the back then looped the bungee around the handle of the screwdriver, this way the screwdriver handle was being pulled towards the back of the truck. The tip of the screwdriver was up in one of those slots, so the bungee pulling the handle backwards causes the tip of the screwdriver to push the TCC valve forwards, towards its exit hole. The bungee puts continuous forwards pressure on the TCC valve we are trying to remove, the only thing that keeps it from popping out is the clip at the end. Bend the ears of the clip together, then spread them apart, and your old valve should pop out.
+Andrew Rudlang oh ok, so you use the bungee+ screwdriver After the clip has been removed? or are you nudging the TCC Valve slightly to get pressure relieved so you can get the clip to pop up and out? Also I'm curious how do you actually get the clip out of the top of the valve body after its popped up? Sorry for so many questions, I'm in your shoes...doing this alone...with only two hands.
+drwombat No worries I am happy to (try to) help! Its kinda the opposite of what you guessed, you said "pressure relieved so you can get the clip to pop out" its actually more like putting pressure on it on purpose so that as soon as the clip arms are clear the retainer will pop out. I wish I would have done a better job explaining it in the video. So, the clip we are trying to remove only prevents the valve from popping out when the engine is running and there is fluid pressure in there. When the engine is off and we are underneath with the pan off, there is no pressure trying to push the valve out, it is just sitting in there. You can spread the clip arms out of the way, but the valve will just sit there because it has no reason to pop out of the hole, there is no pressure from anything. So the screwdriver+bungee is used to create some pressure, pushing the valve towards the exit. The arms of the clip will hold it back until you spread the arms and then the retainer can pop out of the hole but it will only "pop" out because of the screwdriver pushing on it, if that makes sense.
The clip will simply fall out through the slot, once the valve is removed there is nothing keeping it up there gravity will take care of it :)
Andrew Rudlang Thanks for the update, so the retaining clip (1) “falls out” of the slot. (2) AFTER the valve has been removed.
Tanks sr
Wow it’s like playing the game “Operation “ 😄
Yupp only the buzzer seems to be wired ON permanently. I've been at it for over six hours, and I am dropping the VB a little to see if I can snag it from the top.
I had to losen the valve body a bit before taking the retainer clip from the top with a very small allen wrench. When I put the repair valve, I noticed it was not touching the piece that stayed inside, is that normal? Is that what makes it "on" or "off". I have a 2000 Chevy S10.
How much did you have to lower the valve body? I am having a issue with removing from the bottom. I have seen others have the same problem, no matter how much you flatten the tips of the clip, it just will not move upward.
I did this on my 2000 blazer and now is worse all though code did go away, also I notice I can shift out of park without applying brake can anyone help with this???
Does this work on a 08 4l70e?
does all the fluid drain when removing the pan? how much is to much when you are filling it up? how do you know how much fluid you have lost?
Sorry for the slow reply Ben, I'm sure you are long done with the project by now! I recommend you try to catch all the fluid that drains into a pan and then measure that as a guide for roughly how much fluid to replace on reassembly, then drive it and check the stick and slowly add to get to the exact amount. If you get too much in there you will know because the fluid level will be way too high on the measuring stick, and if that happens you better get the excess out or you will probably blow a seal somewhere.
I wish I would have removed the valve body. Took me 5 hours and I had to destroy the retainer clip because it wouldn’t stay. (But I had bought extra clips). That 5 hours included trying to get the old valve out.
It's probably a good idea to drop the VB anyway and replace the seperator plate. The steel check balls eventually get beat thru the plate which will burn out the 3/4 clutches. Also replace the plastic accumulator pistons with aluminum parts. The pistons ride on a steel pin which wears out the hole in the piston. That's a pressure leak. Plus they crack and dump pressure. All the parts are about $100 and greatly improve the clutch holding. Look up 1-2/3-4 accumulator pistons on Amazon or Ebay. I recommend getting the VB gasket set that has 4 gaskets so you know you have the correct ones. One set is for early models, other for later. Match them up.
How is this Fitzall insert any different than the Transgo longer spring that simply coil binds which eliminates any valve movement, effectively doing the same thing?
Sorry for the slow reply, and at the same time sorry to others who have asked questions and I have not been online much to answer. Anyways, I think what is different about this is that the o-ring on the new part is thicker and a bit more diameter, so as to completely seal the worn aluminum cylinder and not have pressure leak by it. I am not a transmission expert by any means, though, just a guy who fumbled through it on the floor of his garage and got lucky enough to have it work out.
Will this help relieve intermittent reverse issues? I usually get hesitant reverse in the mornings and then I don't have any issues backing up whatsoever. Sometimes it goes days without any issues. I am thinking it is one of the valves. I have already changed the fluid and the filter and used 2 bottles of lucas trans additive. I was thinking boost valve...maybe
Jeremy, did this solve your intermittent reverse issue? Or did you end up replacing the boost valve? I have a similar problem, but I would describe it as a slow reverse engage that requires revving up the engine to get reverse to engage.
Hi Jeremy and T Worth, sorry I did not notice these comments sooner I do not log in all that often anymore. Anyways I am not sure about your reverse issues, I was getting a check engine light with error code P1870 that prompted me to find and install the teckpak valve, my symptoms were failure of the torque converter to lockup or stay locked up on the highway (slipping trans). I don't remember having reverse issues so possibly some other issue, although for the roughly $10 this part costs it might be worth doing if you have the transmission pan off anyways it won't hurt, and you never know how much longer your stock valve body will make it before it starts to slip on the highway like mine was (around 180k miles).
Hope you guys are/were able to get your trucks back on the road, long live the S10s!
I have the kit but im not looking forward to doing it. Thanks for the video.
+Premium fuel only Its one of those things, the first time tends to be slow and if you had to do it again each time after that would be much much faster, but chances are anybody would only have to do this once unless they are in the business of repairing cars.
The theory is simple; take off pan & filter, reach into little slot with thin pliars, bend ends of clip straight, then use pliars in reverse to spread the arms of the clip and simultaneously apply pressure with a flat screwdriver further up in the valve channel so the retainer will pop out as soon as the clip arms are spread enough. Pull out the stock pieces, put the new piece in, reinstall the clip (upside down). Reconnect any wires you moved, put pan back and filter on refill fluid and drive away.
I"m still driving my blazer with this repair over a year later and although it was a pain it was still cheaper and faster than pulling the transmission and/or replacing the entire valve body. Good luck!
Well I installed it, hardest part was that stupid clip, but once i realized i had to apply pressure on the retainer while keeping the arms of the clip spread out like you said, it went back together in about an hour. So far no P1870 code.
Long term update? Any returning code?
Over 500 miles pulling a trailer and no codes or shifting issues. Im surprised that little part fixed it.
To my understanding it is one of many things to wear in the valve body, but it certainly makes sense to try it first. I'm a little concerned if I were to try to pull the whole valve body with the transmission in there. that looks somewhat difficult doing from underneath. This is a Suburban I just recently purchased with only a hundred twenty thousand miles and original owner. I'm thinking it might just be slight wear since it's fairly low mileage.
Is this installation similar in an 07+ 4l60e?Any info would be much appreciated.Thanks
Update. It did fit my application and while I didn't have any codes it did help my issue. Not 100% but a big difference.
The problem with this is with the clip pointing down it pushes on the wiring harness which pushes the filter down. I had to reroute the wiring so I could install the pan without crushing it
I didn't notice that when I did mine, I wonder if it just slipped past me when I put it all back together or if there is some difference between our models? (seems unlikely..). I haven't had any issues with mine yet at least.
Have you removed the pan since that, were the cables squeezed ? I did it like you works great except for this issue.
@@arudlang90 The clip won't go in all the way because it is hitting the gasket and the separator plate. It's best and takes a whole lot less time to just drop the valve body and check the check balls while you're at it.
I guess i dont understand the theory of why this fixes that long high rpm shift to something more reasonable. What is wearing on that part that causes it to fail?
As I understand it, it changes the shift from a PWM to a direct shift. In the stock form, the OEM valve opens and closes rapidly to make a smoother, less abrupt shift BUT this repetitive action wears on the valve body eventually causing it to leak around the valve, thus causing the slippage and the P1870 error code. With this replacement valve they have somehow eliminated the PWM portion, the replacement valve is either opened or closed and does not change state unless certain conditions are met. This makes the shift firmer, but its hardly noticeable. The "smoothness" they were trying to attain with the OEM setup was not something the driver could hardly detect and they created this other problem in the process. Also, this replacement valve has big squishy O-ring to make a good seal despite the OEM valve having worn down the bore of the valve body. It has been a good fix for me, mine is still shifting good to this day.
Andrew Rudlang my 4L60e in my 99 trans am TCC doesnt lockup in first gear intermittently either from a dead stop or when I first put it in Drive you think the isolator valve is the culprit?
Is the spring going back with the new part or no?
Nope you don't use the spring with the new part.
+Andrew Rudlang thanks!
how long did it take rotate the clip?
Edgar Castillo been about 4 hrs and about to have take the valve body out anyway...if it sounds too good you know the rest.
@@Gen01Lee I have been at it for over 6 hours. I give up I am going to drop the VB and get it with a small pick tool from the top.
@@edcrabb I think I ended up taking a break , then had my gf help me. Think she put tension on the screwdriver 🪛 and I bent the clip in more before trying again and got it out. It’s been in my tranny for 2 years my truck now has like 208k and it’s still working. My trans wasn’t holding O/D and banging 2nd hard. It still shifts into 2nd alittle hard but nowhere’s near as bad.
@@edcrabb Goodluck, try and take a break and eat something..lol. Squeeze the clip together more and give it another shot. And if you have someone that can hold a screwdriver against it to cause pressure. It was worth it in the end. Or if that doesn’t work guess you’ll have to do it the “long” way.
I did this and its slams harder into second gear.
If you changed this valve did you test your TCC solenoid when it was out?
I do not recommend this method, I was unable to push out the retaining clip. I now have to remove the throttle body in order to finish the job. Might as well just begin this way instead of wasting time trying to get the clip out.
F Martinez If you’re removing the throttlebody trying to fix the transmission you’re in for a long day
I bet you had hard time finding that TCC valve under the Throttle body?? LOL! Just razzing you. I like you am not able to get that damn clip to budge. So I am going to lower that end of the Valve Body and see if I can snag it with a pick tool.
great video I look forward to tryn this thank you
great video I look forward to tryn this thank you
great video I look forward to tryn this thank you