How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post / Handyman Business
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- čas přidán 3. 12. 2017
- In this video I am showing you how to replace a rotted fence post in concrete. I show how to replace a rotted fence post the easy way. I have replaced a lot of fence posts in my handyman business and here i show you how I do it if the location of the post can not be moved.
Many years ago I did the very same task at my girlfriends house in Sac. I pulled out all of the dry rotted post wood and pounded a replacement post in. It worked great.
Here in the UK we would dig out a wider hole so that you have more concrete around the post underground plus wouldn't expose any above
Yeah and dig the hole to a minimum of 24 inches
Yeah same here man. I live in the USA but this guys just did a bad job. It might last a year like this before it starts to wobble.
@Fefv Ffgscb then it becomes weaker.
@@NB-91 yeah, he went 16 inches. Then removed video of his struggle getting the post in.
Most excellent work, and particularly like the tapered area around the post in order to prevent water settling, thus reducing the potential for eventual rotting.
The hole was not big enough and you need at least four inches of gravel underneath or it will rot fast again. Quick setting quikcrete is designed so you don't have to mix first, just dump in hole and add water on top. Treat the wood from bottom to 3 inches above grade with sealant.
Excellent! Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I needed to see.
Glad this was helpful!
We dig out the hole like he did But then we trim 1/4 in off the width of the post on 2 sides for 12 in Long. Then when you put the post in the hole it has a lot of rattle room. Then you fill the hole 1/2 way with anchor cement (quick rock) Then push the post down in 12in and the exccess cement will ooz out the top then you have a tight fit when it dries.
Awesome. Thank you for the detailed procedure. It's my upcoming weekend project for 2 posts.
By trimming the sides of the post you now making it weaker instead dig the hole wider and dipper
🪜
@@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri the original hole was in concrete. The dude cut off the old post, broke up the rotting wood inside the hole with a bar, and pulled it out of the hole with his hand. Can’t make the hole any wider unless you break up the old concrete.
Awesome. I will do that as yours this weekend.
Good work, very clever idea to reuse the same hole.
Thanks Saul!
I like how the sped-up version makes the concrete mixing look frantic xD
if you want to try to push for longer wood life you can put a sealant onto the wood where it goes into the concrete, and +/- 6" above. Also, when you are working with masonry products - consider wearing a dust mask because the silicate dust is not too good for your lungs.
OR just paint it with tar.
Thanks for the video! Good job.
My fence is doing exactly this. Looks like a fun weekend project. Thanks for the video.
Thats awesome! Best of luck!
A very good job. Nice work !!
Instead of digging out the concrete is it an option to bolt one of those deck post metal brakets to the concrete and place the post inside it? Or would the bracket not be stable enough for the lateral movement?
Yup I did years ago. Got rid of the old wood using cold chisel and put the new post into old square hole using a slurp of ready mix cement. Maybe not what a professional builder would do who's work may have a warranty, but for a quick cheap amateur garden repair, pretty effective.
That's what im trying to do right know.
How would you install a 4x4 gate/gate post and fence on a concrete driveway? Would you break up the concrete or use anchors or something?
I would personally Break a hole in the concrete and dig about 18 inches down and then insert it that way. Bst of luck!
Did you have to wait and come back another day to attach load to the post and rehang the gate? Quickrete says harden in 20-40 minutes but it takes a day or more to set.
Nope, we hung it the same day. Thank you for your comment!
Nice work looked good.
I'm an Engineer and Property Manager. You are doing great!. Nice job, ignore the critical comments, they are Know-it-all critics. Keep up the good work my friend!
An engineer really ... and you can't see what's wrong with this ?
@@JamieVauxnut1 I think it is stronger
Nice job but I missed the most important thing I was looking for....How did you extract the old lower broken part of the fence post that was below the surface of the hole?
That part is in this video:
czcams.com/video/sPXbqcm8GQI/video.html
Try splitting the remaining wood with a hand sledge and a wedge, round bar, etc. Once the wood is broken up it will be easier to extract...
Nice video! I'm looking to help my next door neighbors fix their fence that has been leaning more and more over the last two years. I think they just need to replace the posts that are holding up the fence.
Ever get around to it, Mac?
When you put the new post in you didn't show that part. And the lighting made it hard to see what was going on around hole. Was that gravel or plant debris?
I need to do some fencing this weekend at a rental property. Instead of all that work I'm going to use an EZ Mender stake to shore up the fence. It blew down during a 40 mph wind storm last week.
Good job 👍 🔥🔥🔥🎉
Wish you were closer to Fresno. Cant find a handyman worth poop here!
Just like to now I have had a fence that's been in the garden for about 13 years maybe longer and some of the fence posts are lose and rotting is there any thing I can use putting in the ground against the posts keeping them in more longer for when I'm ready to put new posts in
Yes, you can use something like this: amzn.to/3SRU5yx
It's a temporary fix but will get you by until you are ready for new posts
Good video , all the Best
Did you insert the post? In the original opening or was it just placed over it, I did see it go down.
Best recipe for a long lasting fence post is NOT to have concrete above grade. Once the post shrinks or cracks it'll let water into the convenient "bowl" shape that the post cast into the concrete. It'll sit there and rot the post. If you need concrete for stability, dig the fence post hole down below frost line. Sit the post on a concrete cookie. Then pour concrete just about 4"-6" at the base of the post. Backfill the hole with dirt. This will give you excellent pull out strength, and it will solve the rotting issue. Also, concrete above grade lifts when the ground freezes, causing alignment issues with the fence. Check out the latest Pole barn building standards. I just paid to have a 3,000 square foot pole barn installed, and the method I describe is the method they used. Lester Building.
thanks for your comment! great info!
Mmmmm cookies
Hi,
Nice video. However I want to see and learn on how to do the concrete mixture and what texture is recommended.
Do you have a video on this subject?
If not, can you please make one in the near future?
Thank you
Yo when you have your post hole dug insert your post in the hole then pour the dry concrete into the hole at the same time you should have already made sure your post is in exactly the location to be perfectly level this is easier with two people but I have done this by myself plenty of times now once you have everything ready please have a piece of 3/8 “ all thread at least 3 feet long next to you now you pour some water in the hole then poke the metal all thread in the hole to aerate the concrete so that the water gets to the bottom of the hole really easy process and you have no clean up of tools or a mixing box after the work is done FYI before you put the dry concrete in the whole you can put a couple of cups of water to help prime your dry mixture sometimes you can also do a half a bag of of dry mix to fill half of the depth of the hole To ensure the right mix towards the bottom of the post also remember this only works with the red bag of Fast set concrete Most generally I use a bag and a half which ends up being about 60-70 lbs Of concrete per post hole as long as you dug that post hole 2 feet deep that is more than sufficient using the fast set concrete Eliminates waiting 24 hours Let’s try this stuff dries in like 20 to 45 minutes and realistically I’ve always had good results good luck
Good fix....👍
When are you replacing the gate?
Definitely a handyman.
thank you for the video.
(when you disappeared, it did kinda looked like you were pissin' in the concrete)
that just made me laugh, I'm a dork sorry!
but great ideas and how to's, none-the-less
LMAO
great video
Hey thanks! I appreciate it
Allen, re: replace side gate rotted brace post. It could have used more concrete just one inch higher, reaching level to sidewalk. Gate post needs all the support it can get. You had the room. I also would have pounded some rebar near into the ground to give extra support. Covering top of rebar with the added inches of concrete. Support, yes. And you could see 3 rotted side support wood. Why not add at least one new board sistered to one of the existing rotted boards. Support, yes.
Thanks for your comment!
You earned a subscriber! I am ripping out and replacing a fence for a family friend as we speak so I’ve been looking up a lot of videos on different aspects thank you can you recommend any other videos of yours I should watch?
Yes, watch this fence video we just made: czcams.com/video/-VlSKmPbXDc/video.html
That’s so cool! I am near Sacramento 😂
Awesome. Ty.
-Dasa
Hey your welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Looks good, except I did not see how you removed the rotted post. That was the critical part. Other than that it seems easy but removing the rotted post right out is the tough part.
I think if it is like mine and from the looks of it at the beginning, I think it was rotted off ground level. the fence was holding up the gate, not the post.
BTW, I agree with chalengevideo, your selling an image here. Also, keep your tools/van/truck/trailer neat and clean. You'd be surprised how many customers are judging you by the appearance of you and your equipment. In the Army we called it military bearing.
Definitely! This is something that I am always having to remind myself of! Thanks for your comment!
Great job on the post project. I notice you used the green pressure treated post.
On your next fence project, you might consider the brown ACQ treated post.
They have a much longer lifespan in dirt and/or concrete, and only cost about
a dollar or so more. If you have to use redwood or cedar posts, treat them
with Copper-Green Wood Preservative on the 18 or 24 inch part of the post
that goes into the ground. Available in 14 oz aerosol spray. If you do a
good job at a reasonable price in your handyman/home repair business, you
will always have work from referrals and repeat customers. and no, you
don't need to shave.
I very effectively repaired a partially rotted post by vacuuming out the rotted material, attaching to the bottom of two 1” deep channels cut into the face of the post with 3” screws a pair steel tubes extending 9” down into the cavity, pouring ready mix concrete into the cavity, filling and finishing the face of the post with construction adhesive and bondo, and painting with fence stain.
Nice job! QUESTION: Do clients mind if the concrete is left on the ground like that? Don't they expect most to be hidden from view?
I'm installing fence posts 15 years. I always made sure that the cement is a couple inches lower than the ground level. You are able to eventually have some grass grow back. Not too much dirt around the posts. The dirt is what holds water and rots the posts off at ground level. The other reason for having the cement a couple inches lower is so when you are running a lawn mower or wipper snipper you wont hit the lawnmower blade off the cement.
I'm from st John's Newfoundland. All posts here have to have a lot of cement. In replacing posts I always have to bust out the old cement. 16 inches in the ground holding up a 6 foot gate isnt nowhere deep enough.
I use a dry mix which I can pack down really hard. Let’s me get free standing posts properly vertical ready for fences when base has hardened. Concrete sucks moisture in and dries very hard. No shrinkage.
That works as well!
Can you share or point me in the direction of the right dry mix to use. Or as you just saying you dry pack the concrete in then wet it? Cheers
Buy a metal fence mender from home Depot and pound it in between the post and cement then put a lag bolt through the middle they work nice !
The video was good, the only suggestion I have is for novices like me who are really at the very start of a beginner's level, leaving a few comments as to what you're doing and why would be extremely helpful, like the part that you were measuring the hole for the new post, I believe you kept digging till you reached about 2 feet or 24 inches but I' not sure since you didn't say and the recording was sped up, but thanks for the video nevertheless!
good tips
Thanks, helpful 👍🏽
Your welcome! I am glad this video was helpful for you
I like that(Make a quick repair)No such a thing quick repair.(But I know how customers think)💯👍👍👍
definitely! Thanks for the comment!
Glad to see the tapered run off. I do the same :))
How are you pricing your jobs(Do you use software for pricing
Material/labor
I charge by the job, I have figured out how much money i need to cover my costs and then profit on top of that and that is how I base my rate, then figure how many hours the job will cost.
Honest Lee Handyman what is ur number? I need ur help w 3 posts. Doug.
so you didn't dig a hole bigger than the post to put the concrete in?
Never point up Concrete with your bare Hand!
A use fence post mix. Tip bag straight into hole pour water in sets in 15 mins. It costs more than cement but much faster and neater as does not flow all over the place.
You Should have painted the new post with tar where it contacts the soil and say an inch or two above.
Mine are buried in concrete. Looks like this one's not. How would you take out a post that's buried in concrete and surrounded by concrete on top?
I would of made the hole bigger and deeper and also gravel on the bottom so it doesn't rot and pour in quickrete ofcourse then tamp it down and ofcourse level it let it set then cover the rest with dirt..looks better as a finish! I have a handyman business myself but hey yours works too
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Post easily and effortlessly slipped out of the hole. I had a broken post at ground level. Would not budge out of hole. Had to make a new post hole along side of it.
Helps to use a fence post jack or a high lift jack, often used by farmers for replacing fence posts and off-roaders for changing over-sized tires. I use a fence post jack and a chain wrapped around base of post to get a clean, straight-up lift - helps to put a piece of 2x6 under base of jack if dirt is soft.
I've built many fences of all types and have never used concrete to set a post... even a gate post. Concrete attracts water and the post will rot sooner than one that was tamped in place. If a post is broke or rotted at ground level, I dig down about 4 inches and stab the side of the post with a pick. I then lever it straight up and out of the hole. Clean the hole out with a clamshell digger and pack in the new post.
Awesome! I appreciate your input! Thanks for your comment!
Are the posts you are setting in your region in heavy clay soils? I can see different soils affecting the use of concrete. Concrete should never be poured above the frost line in my opinion. I think a little cleat nailed to the bottom of a post, and a little concrete poured in the bottom does give excellent pull out strength and resistance to frost heave.
We use concrete in the Midwest. Clay soil and high wind storms.
@honest lee handyman you should have shown how you removed rotted post from the ground
The post rotted off at ground level. Just cut the nails and the post fell over. And 16 inches isnt nowhere deep enough
I do about 300 post replacements a year your on the right track with cleaning the existing hole just next time use your shop vac. saves time and is cleaner.
I see where some guys are asking how you figure how long a job like this will take. I never bid jobs buy the hour I have a set rate for replacing post. 80.00 L&M each
Thanks!! I appreciate the comment!
Some joker came to my house and quoted $500 to replace a single post and picket fence while using the same brace. WHY? Because of where I live? He saw the home and said "I'll screw this guy? He wasted my time waiting for him and his. It was exactly this scenario in the video. PISSED me off. I called another guy and it'll be $150 a licensed contractor of 30 years. Also an entire 6'x8' fence $200 include materials. He does nice work on his website. Now that's more reasonable.
@@handymanjourney I'm installing just strictly posts the last 15 years. You should go for at least 30 inches in the ground. 16 inches in the ground holding up a 6 foot gate is too much. I always went 36 inches especially for the posts that are holding the gate. Use all cement...the dirt holds the water and that's what rots the posts off at ground level. Keep your cement a couple inches lower than ground level. That way theres a chance that grass can grow back. 2nd reason for a couple inches lower than ground level is if there is a lawnmower running. The chances of hitting the blade off the cement is gone. Great job other than that. Not many of us around that want to be at the posts.
@@rxonmymind8362 Competent, knowledgeable, reasonably priced contractors are like gold.They get my repeat business and referrals.
@@dq7143
Absolutely.
Great invention called post Crete
I do things a little different. since 70% of the work is getting the post in the ground and you had to remove the existing post and use the same place or you would have had to rebuild that section of fence. I use a Milwaukee hole hog and I blow up all the rotten Wood. I use a pry bar to clean up the edges and drop the post in without disturbing the concrete at all then I will use the driveway crack filler when I put the post in and tap it down till it's coming out the edges. I like that you brought the concrete up above ground level because that's why all senses fail because opposed to sitting down below ground level and stays wet right there. The next time you have a fence post that you have to replace try using a Milwaukee hole Hawg with a big bit on it to blow up the majority of the rotten wood in the hole and suck it out with a Shop-Vac too much easier on your hands and it really goes pretty fast I averaged about 20 minutes per post hole.
Great idea! I appreciate the input Alex!!
That red bag can be poured straight in the hole then add water
It can! I prefer to pre mix it as I feel it gets a more sturdy finish!
@Griffin Logistics & Consulting Enterprises great points!
He put the new post in the old formed hole and poured the concrete on top. Pretty sloppy if you asked me. Could have formed it in even with the walkway and made it look neat.
@Griffin Logistics & Consulting Enterprises you're right, you are no expert
Id normally say follow the instructions.. except that it didnt work for me. I got the quick setting kind to repair mine last year. It said simple "pour x amount of water on top of cement. Do not mix. Let sit y hours" I forget exact amounts but I followed it to the letter. It looked like it worked.
Until the next day I went to inspect it to see if I could level out the dirt again -- the top set, and the bottom set, but hte middle was powder crumbles. The whole post is crap now. Instead of a simple concrete fortification on the post, I got an even worse off post and a bunch of powdered concrete to clean up (which it then rained and it set all over the place so.. horray!) -- I think Id always recommend people to pre-mix it now...
Good video. Thank you. One thing; I would have made the concrete around the bottom of post a little more attractive. Maybe sugared it up with makeshift forms like paint sticks; reduced the the area spread. I think it would have made it look better. More professional. But...good video.
That's should have been " " "squared" not " sugared". My bad as the kids say.
Owner Bates fencing Inc. You need a 30-inch footing 6 inches of gravel under the post 24 in of high-strength concrete around the post. You cannot reuse the old footing and just add more concrete. Always remove the old footing either with a jackhammer or Spud bar.
Hey thanks for your comment James!
James is correct. I am a professional carpenter with 30+ years experience. The maker of the video knows nothing on post installation
Why shouldn’t we re-use old footing?
Hello I'm in Fairfeld and I have a fence like that can you contact me to set up a price tp fix my gate or do you have a number
you should mention you have no frost line where you live or you'd have to burry the post below the frost line to prevent frost jacking the post.
Great point!
Would have helped to know how deep you set the post. Moving too fast and tape too far away to tell. Did’t look to be much cement going in hole around post. I will try another video to see if things are clear for me
How much do you charge for that
great work, wish you were here... :)
Your welcome, thank you for your comment
Er, yes, I wanted to see how you remove rotten wood from hole! You removed top of post, did the rotten wood in concrete magically jump out!
You can try splitting the remaining wood using a small hand sledge and a wedge, round/concrete bar, etc.
😂😂😂
Spot On!!
The thin layer of concrete around the top will break up in no time.
Been there for a few years and still holding strong!
Title is replacing a rotted fencepost - no mention of dirt. In the "Show More" box he clearly states he is setting replacement post in concrete. He also says this beginning at about 00:54 into the video.
Pressure treated wood will twist over time I helped a customer that was a diy they also like you did in your video only buried each post 12 to 14 inches deep unfortunately their fence fell over in a wind storm I was then called on to get the job done right I dug each hole 2 feet deep and actually used a post hole digger and also poured the concrete in the hole my professional opinion change your practices it will eliminate call backs
I've been doing this type of work for about 15 years. I most never have a problem with knowing how to make the repair. My biggest problem is always trying to come up with the correct time it will take to do the job to estimate a good price before the job is started. It's not like a Handyman can use a formula in a computer like measuring a room for laying carpet. How do you find the correct time it will take to do such a job.....before you start it?
Great question! Its all just a quess, I have had some jobs go south and cost me money but some jobs go super eay and I make good money, Kind of take the good with the bad and learn along the way,
Honest Lee Handyman : Thanks for the response and for your videos. I just find that home owners always seem to think I can predict the future by telling them how much I will change them, before I do the job. Like, it's easy to tell someone how long it took me to do a job I did yesterday, but much harder to tell them how long it will take to do another job tomorrow. It makes me not to want to do this kind of work any more.
I agree, That can be stressful, I think it is important to give them a price and stick to that even if it ends up taking you extra time and you dont make as much profit. It will round out in the end. at least from my perpective
Use a shop vacuum to suck the dirt out of the hole.
Eliminating air pockets by tapping the post with a hammer.
💪
How much should you quote for this job? I wish you would include more pricing information on jobs
Wear a mask when you mix in concrete next time there silica dust in there
I'm a carpenter based in Scotland and if i sent someone to replace a post and they did this they would be fired on the spot ...
How do you recommend to replace? Do you have the concrete come above grade a little bit to prevent wood rot as this?
@@gregorywarnick1315 break out the old concrete , new post for a gate or tall fence normally 1/3 below ground and the hole 3x the width of the post . Little bit of gravel in the bottom of the hole to stop the post sitting on wet soil, add some form of treatment or wrap to the portion of post buried to protect from future rot ( even on pressure treated timber ) new concrete/postcrete to 1" bellow ground level and cover over with soil/gravel to match surroundings once dry . Slipping a post into an existing hole where rot has already occurred then capping it off is totally pointless , will begin to rot again within the first year . You may as well do the job properly and charge a little more . I explain the process to all my clients so they understand the work involved and the lengths i go to to get a job done properly .
@@JamieVauxnut1 What do you use to protect the wood that's above the concrete but below the ground or right at grade, meaning the wood thats between the 1'' below ground level and covered in soil? Seems like most wood rot happens there?
@@gregorywarnick1315 purely just the pressure treatment present in the posts i buy . It does seem to be most apparent at the soil line like you saw but 99% of the time its coming up from a problem below ground level . Regular painting with your chosen protective finish after the first year or so will be more than enough to prolong the life of the post . Getting the footing right is the key . A mistake a lot of people people make is cutting a post and putting the cut in the hole. Always cut off top and always treat the end going in the hole , takes no time at all
@@JamieVauxnut1 So what you're saying is to treat the wood that's going in the concrete instead of worrying about the concrete coming above grade as the problem usually starts below ground and works its way up? If so do you apply the wood sealer right before you put the posts into the concrete or do you let it dry before putting into the concrete?
how much does it cost to replace a rotted fence post in concrete?
$325
@@eriksemelis5118 Did mine 2 years ago for $25 myself. Make sense $300 for a business to come out...
Did I miss where there post went down into the hole ! I only saw the post being set on top of the hole then concreted . The only thing holding this post and gate up is it being attached to the fence beside it .
Not bad
Thanks!
You just poured concrete on the surface and around the post?? The hole wasn’t big enough
That post wont last a year barely 16 inches in the ground holding up a 6 foot gate
Agreed. Though there is some good techniques here. The fence post should be set to feet deep in concrete. The hole should be tapered. So is it can't pull up there should be about a few inches of rock at the bottom for drainage and if you really wanted to go the extra step you can use Roofing Emulsion or something similar on. The post that is in the ground. To help from keeping it from rotting.. Plus Gate Post and corner post should be four by sixes. Not four by fours. As they're taking extra stress. But since he did say that the homeowner was planning on redoing the whole fence soon this will probably be fine for a year or so.
Um, that doesn't look right to me..
Is all the muffin top cement to add a bracing effect for lateral stability? Why not a tight square, maybe 8"X8"? Or a circle? Did he ask you to make it look like he did it him self? How much did you charge?
I agree, the hole should have been enlarged and filled with cement below the grade, encapsulating the post. If you really wanted to be fancy the hole could be tapered toward the top of the soil; offering even more strength. I would have done this being that it is the one post holding up the gate
I think he didn't put more work into this to make the post stable for the longer term, because his client told him that he wanted to replace the whole fence in about a year, and just wanted a fix that would last that long.
Holly shit this guy is quick. He needs to slow down because I missed a few steps.
yep, didn't see how he took the rotted post out of the ground
Anyone here know how to remove four feet (to the frost line) of cement without the post attached?
Demo hammer time! You can pick one up at any hardware store or even rent one!
Use a farm jack and 3/8 chain wrapped around the cement. Search CZcams for more videos of this method.
my concern here is you created a mushroom top with the cement. if you have winters the frost will push on the mushroom cap and push your post out
Am sorry but honestly dig a bigger hole put gravel in bottom to prevent more rot. Screw 2 x screws on 3 sides for ancerage. Then post crete all around post to top of hole no need to over flow like that only thing thats going to happen is its going to need replacing every 3 years as 1 theirs no drainage in bottom and to not enough support from the cement when theirs only a thin layer around this. The only thing thats correct here is a slope off for the water.
If I was the home owner, and saw this video showing exactly How that post was installed, you would be re-doing it at your expense - Unless, I had agreed to Not using concrete to set the post - the concrete at the top, makes it look like it was concreted in, but without the hole being at least 2 1/2 inches bigger than the post, about all it is good for is to keep water from standing at the base of the post - Even then, the concrete looked overly thinned with water, and pretty well just spread out around the post... Best thing about the video, was it showed the fastest and cheapest way to put install a new fence post - Which, for some people, may be good enough...
Did you not listen to the part of the video where he said the homeowner agreed a "temporary" fix because the entire fence would be replaced within 1-2 years. Sure it could be done your way, but realize that would be more expensive (because it was a lot more work) and would done at your expense;).
Just a comment that you need to wear dust mask & gloves to deal with concrete mix. Might not realize it but everything has dust, through time it accumulated in the lung. Thx
Hey thanks for your comment! I would agree! Its those little particles that cause issues.
Quite a lot of preamble with face of handyman at normal speed, then the part that counts at Benny Hill speed.
Better to keep some normal speed for the task, especially at the start of the task.
Wooden posts are bad news. Concrete every time.
My adventure with woodworking started with Stodoys.
This is absolutely not how to reset a fence post. This guy skipped that hard part, removing the old footer, digging the hole to the proper depth and belling it.
He's a hack
Did any concrete make it in the hole with the post? Sorry but if you did this at my house I would have sued you for crap job
Don't know if you really needed the cement. Maybe for the door but probably not. Definitely don't do mailboxes that way unless you absolutely, positively can't do it any other way . Here's why, you may think it's bullet proof and immovable with the cement. But what happens a year or 2 from now when the mailman knocks it down? Someone, possibly you, is going to have to remove it, and that day will suck. A better way to do it is to backfill and tamp it down about every 3 or 4 inches in "lifts" (ask someone who works on roads). Really pack it down with a 2x4 or 4x4. It'll be almost as strong as cement stability wise, but easily replaceable when that day eventually comes. Don't forget, the next guy may be you.
Ahh! Makes sense! I appreciate your input! Thanks!
I did this with a RR tie as a fence post.. Dug a big hole, leveled it packed it with small pebbles a little at a time and tamped, tamped aaaaand tamped some more. Damn my arms were getting sore but here it is 30 years later and it's still solid.
That's a waste of time
Hahahahaha ! So was the original post just in the soil then ? (what a joke)
My thought is to first make the hole a little bigger. Then add concrete in the hole and mix it with the dirt that you just dug out. Ends up maybe 60% concrete and 40% dirt. This way you have no leftover dirt or wet concrete to get rid of. This is what I do and it’s plenty strong.
So how much did you cut off the top of the post? A foot?
Come on bro,We know you didn’t go down the full two feet....😂😂😂
Lol 2 full feet? He barely went down 16 inches. I'd say the post didn't last a year holding up a 6 foot gate. 36 inches min