This is one of several short videos demonstrating removal and installation of a new stator our 1995 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic. As always, your comments and suggestions are welcome.
He isn't kidding about using the factory Service Manual. I also STRONGLY recommend getting the factory parts book. They are all still in print, and no aftermarket manual compares to them. If you visit any HD forums you'll be told the same thing. I've worked on Harleys for over 30 years and I keep the books handy. If I don't have one for the machine I'm working on I get one.
Thank you this series is a great help to me . I don't have a problem with my stator but I do have to remove my engine and so it is necessary to remove the primary chain and stator .
hey thanks for responding, I did finally get the old one out, I had to pull from the stator through the opening, I hope I can get the new one installed with out trimming, I butchered my old one with needle nose plyers. (LOL)
Batt replacement at 3 years...good idea. My 96 inch 07 Softail, eats batteries, about, every 3 years. So, thats a great tip!! Replace it, befoer you have too replace it, and the stator too!
2:28 Thanks for the heads up here on making sure your battery is in good shape, not 5 years old, and barely hangin' on, another thing a weak battery does is ruin starter motors, overheats them.
Ah.... great point about a weak battery causing starter failure. I am at the point now that I replace my battery every 4 years simply to avoid being stranded. I been through enough of them that it's simply not worth the inconvenience of being surprised with a bike that won't start.
@@VTwinOnline I hear that, there's no point in letting it all go to hell, when you know the best of the battery life is behind it, just a matter of time..
@ riverazach - I would only replace the rotor if you find damage. If you take your bike to a repair shop, they will likely want to replace everything so that they don't have to troubleshoot anything. Do the troubleshooting, in accordance with your manual, and replace as needed. Good luck, Scott
before you replace anything, check for spark and see if you can get it to kick off with the starting fluid. to check a stator properly you have to have the engine running. if it wont run you can never check the stator or rectifier. but it is very possible for a bad stator to take out a rectifier, ive seen it
Have all parts on hand,, before starting,, I have had crank seals dry out and go bad,,,. While waiting for parts and time to put back together,, three or four days,,,
Thank you for taking your time to show this very helpful sequence. I may be doing this myself soon. Though i JUST had my rotor stator/regulator replaced this year, but for some reason since that was done, the new battery that was in, failed...they said it was a bad cell but now im noticing that the new battery is being run down??? so much that it wouldnt start the bike. My bike would just suddenly die when it would be put under load, then itd work again..now it happened 3 times in 3 minidea?
Very important to check main ground, battery connections too. Put your neg lead of the volt meter on the battery and pos lead on the engine block and hit the starter. You should not see more then .1 to .2 volts on your meter. Engine running the Stator puts out a/c voltage and the rectifier changes that voltage to DC current. Good clean grounds very important to protect the stator and electronics.
I have a small oil leak from the plug hole for the stator, I was thinking of pull the stator out and cleaning everything up and putting some Permatex on the plug and reinstalling. But I am unable to loosen the bolt to the compensator. Even standing on my breaker bar didn’t work. To stop the leak would this work, pull the plug out forward a half inch clean it and apply Permatex Ultra Black then stuff it back in the hole?
I know this is an old video but I'm getting ready to do this job on my 2003 Heritage and have watched and studied all these vids to a fault. I've referenced my service manual as I watched the vids and all looks the same. I'm not a fan of doing my own "electrical" work but I'm also not a fan of paying a shop 4 or 5 hundred bucks to do this job. If you, or anyone else, has any other pointers or advice I'll be grateful. Wish me luck!
Eddie, You can do this job! Take a look at the tools and materials you need, you don't want to be delayed due to not having what you need on hand. Review the comments about breaking loose the compensator nut... Others have posted suggestions. Don't forget to add fluid when you are done. Make SURE you USE a torque wrench. Read read read the manual. Take video as you go. Mark the time you start and stop. Report back to us and let us know how long it took a first timer to complete the job. Try to avoid being interupted; this is when errors can occur. Stay away from the beer until you are FINISHED. A buzz can cause you to make dumb mistakes.... Like between inch lbs and foot lbs. Have fun and good luck! Scott
thanks for posting this video it is a tremendous help, I am in the process of putting everything back however I am having trouble putting the rotor with the chain back in place. Can you tell me how I can do this without disassembeling my clucth pack?
I bought one of those Kuryakan (sp?) LED voltmeter things. Actually, I bought it two years ago and have yet to put it in. Maybe this year. I do check the charging voltage from time to time with a DVM though. Still, I should quit procrastinating and get that damned voltmeter installed this year. Maybe when I replace the intake seals. Good excuse to remove the tank and wire the meter closer to where it matters, the battery.
thanks for posting this video series very helpful, I however have a problem with extracting the female recv'er of the stator, your demo was very smooth and easy I am having a helluva time getting mine out do you have any tips on how to loosen it up so that when I tap the female rcvr it will move?
@VTwinOnline Guess what? My 'Dyna is all apart for a cam change. I had a bad noise suddenly start up and it appears I have 1 bad tappet roller, and the inner cam bearing bearing was just beginning to go. The cage broke, and some of the needles are showing some galling. Guess while It's up on the jack and all apart I'll finally get around to putting the silly voltmeter in, and do my least favorite job of changing the fork oil.
I light them off using a jumper battery or battery pack if the motorcycle battery is low. NEVER JUMP FROM A RUNNING VEHICLE. You don't need a functioning stator or regulator to run from a charged battery etc. Your no-start problem (likely solved given the post date, but this may help others) will be something else.
I have a question, my 1983 FLHT Electra Glide has a connector that is going bad but the stator is still good, theres a voltage regulator. My question is, can I replace just the connector and if so, where do I find a connector? I can't find it anywhere online.
@VTwinOnline I bought a 1997 dyna, that was made into a trike in 1997 (was a 97 dyna thT WAS REARENDED) a COMPLETE S&S motor was built, It has a Kliktronic shifter in it,. Bike had 18,000 kms I boiught it from nova scotia. Bike sat for 5 yrs before i had it shiped to b.c, neded an inspection done and the shop recomended i change the charging system as it was one from a sportster @28 amps they put a 32amp in. I havent dontr anything to the bike cept that. They "suspect" ig mod
@missionron - you definitely have a problem beyond your rotor/stator and regulator. I would start by taking a close look at ANY modifications you have made to electrical. Sounds like you have a short/ground . I know it sounds like a pain, but... Harley makes a pretty solid product; it's not until you start messing with it that you have problems. Hope you come back and share what you find. Thanks for your post, Scott V-TwinOnline . com
Thanks for the videos,i bought a stator kit from dennis kirk V-FACTOR Charging System for Big Twin - 17833 Part #: 209980 Mfg Part #: 17833 kit came with a 1 1/8 x 3 1/8 washer ? my bike does not have one on it? My bike is a 1996 flhtp. ordered manual waiting for it to arrive. Thanks for any advice in advance.
D p - my advice is follow what the service manual and manufacturer's instructions. Take your time. Take Video/Photos. And wait to drink the beer until AFTER you have started the bike and completed a charge test. 13.5-14.5 volts at the battery terminals with the bike running. If you don't already have one, install a volt meter on the bike to monitor your battery volts at all times. Make sure you have the proper tools! I'm talking Torque Wrench, Gaskets and lube/loctite. Oh...check the comments in my videos....lota of tips in the comments; and consider watching other videos besides mine for other good tips. Good luck! I am sure you are going to do well. Sincerely, Scott
If your stator is failing, I would stay you have a short/ground somewhere. Check all your aftermarket wiring. That's typically where the failure happens.
@missionron - You likely have a short/ground or lack of a ground. I would check ANYTHING modified from after FACTORY wiring. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded. It's a pain I know... but ya just gotta go through everything. Not sure of the relationship w/ the bike under load. You NEED to install a battery monitor. Search: Kuryakyn LED Battery Gauge - Installation / How to (1 of 10) or see playlist on my channel. Good Luck, Scott V-TwinOnline . com
GOOD VIDEO. I WILL TRY THAT. MY NEW BATTERY DIES TOO FAST AFTER EVERY FIRST RIDE. I TURN IT OFF AND IT WILL ONLY CRANK AND CLICK AFTER LIKE IT HAS A DEAD BATTERY
But a volt meter on your battery with the bike running. You should have 13.5-14.5 VDC.I added a Kuryakyn battery monitor for the very reason of monitoring battery CHARGE voltage. This way you will know if your stator is failing. @watch?v=sQLUaSzfTYM&list=PL7F1F2437FC399C2A
sinaloakid1 I apologize for my late response. Thank you so much for following up on your post. It's users like you the make this "video" forum so helpful to ALL OF US. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!! Scott VTwinOnline.com
Hey man,,,, do you have any vids on changing the crankshaft seal on that same side ? mine is a 96 inch S and S with the belt drive clutch, and I am getting oil in my Primary. Is it hard to change once you remove the stator,,, ?????? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
tantricmaster800 I was just thinking about them crank seals,,,, had one tore apart and then needed parts,,,,. Waited till the weekend,,,,. Put it back together,,,,. Then it's smoked like hell,,,,, the seals dried out while I had it apart,,. In 3 or 4 days,,,. Other bikes the seals went bad 3 times because of bad crank bearings,,,,. Crank had a groove war in it from the seals,. ,,,. 29000 MI. Piece of junk,,,,
Not sure. Never done one before. Can't imagine it's that hard of someone else can do it. It's all about having the proper tools and the manual. You CAN do it.
I don’t care what anyone say, Harley-Davidson does not need to be using the chain primary drive system. It’s nothing more than a high maintenance, rough running legacy item. A gear drive primary system is a smoother standard and Harley-Davidson can use it and keep the current primary cover for appearances.
Theres a company called "CTEK", they makes The Worlds Best battery-chargers for all kinds of vehicle & auto batteries - A CTEK charger starts the charge by testing the battery "is it okay?" & "how good is it?" - after that, it starts charging, and when charged to "maximum level" it tests the batt again. If there is an unstable current from the battery back to the charger, the charger will Pulse-Charge the batt to wake-up dead battery cells. The charger doesnt say OK before the batt is 100% OK!
@MrObserver1847 - So you pushed/pulled it out. Hummm... okay. LOL. Whatever gets it done. I don't think I would have considered that option; but now I will. Putting that new stator plug in is a bear. This is the only part in my series that "magically" happened. Read all the posts under the installation video... a few guys have offered other ideas to make it an easier job. THANK YOU for staying in touch. Good luck, Scott V-TwinOnline . com
bejqmmin - RTB - Read the book. Sorry I don't have a video for that just yet; and won't begine to explain the process here. Get the books... you CAN do it! Good luck, Scott V-TwinOnline
@ Mitch - Please check your manual. I beg that you do not attempt this project with out it. And as an owner, you should have both the Service manual and the parts manual. They will both serve you well. I don't think it's required to remove the inner. ;-) Take it easy, Scott PLEASE, PLEASE, buy the manual.
VTwinOnline Can a malfunctioning stator or regulator/rectifier, cause a no power to the coils situation..? (i had no spark at the plugs,then took a test light and got no 12 v at either coil,but great cranking...)
@MrObserver1847 - Bigger Hammer. lol! Not sure what else to tell you. Someone may have used sealent to prevent leaking. By the way, I had one HECK of a time putting the new stator "plug" through the case...I ended up trimming the "plug" with my knife to get it to slide in. Good Luck and let us know what you find and what you did to get it free. Scott V-TwinOnline . com
lol , ''as per manual'', my 2009 Ultra manual doesn't even show stator in the index, and apparently there is no charging system either. .. oh yeah, and no wheel alignment. : ) this list is pretty endless.
Working on my neighbor's old HD in 2023. Glad I found these old videos. Well done.
He isn't kidding about using the factory Service Manual. I also STRONGLY recommend getting the factory parts book. They are all still in print, and no aftermarket manual compares to them. If you visit any HD forums you'll be told the same thing. I've worked on Harleys for over 30 years and I keep the books handy. If I don't have one for the machine I'm working on I get one.
Thank you this series is a great help to me . I don't have a problem with my stator but I do have to remove my engine and so it is necessary to remove the primary chain and stator .
Joseph - thank you for taking the time to comment. So glad I could share just a few steps to give you a better idea of the process.
Thank you, that was a lot easier than I thought
Best & clearest videos ever. Ace. Cheers ✌🏼
hey thanks for responding, I did finally get the old one out, I had to pull from the stator through the opening, I hope I can get the new one installed with out trimming, I butchered my old one with needle nose plyers. (LOL)
Batt replacement at 3 years...good idea. My 96 inch 07 Softail, eats batteries, about, every 3 years. So, thats a great tip!! Replace it, befoer you have too replace it, and the stator too!
Yup....breaking down on a bike sucks! And those are cheap preventative measures to keep you day from going to crap.
2:28 Thanks for the heads up here on making sure your battery is in
good shape, not 5 years old, and barely hangin' on, another thing
a weak battery does is ruin starter motors, overheats them.
Ah.... great point about a weak battery causing starter failure.
I am at the point now that I replace my battery every 4 years simply to avoid being stranded. I been through enough of them that it's simply not worth the inconvenience of being surprised with a bike that won't start.
@@VTwinOnline I hear that, there's no
point in letting it all go to hell, when you know the best of the battery life is behind it,
just a matter of time..
Great job. Excellent video!!
super job😊
@ riverazach - I would only replace the rotor if you find damage.
If you take your bike to a repair shop, they will likely want to replace everything so that they don't have to troubleshoot anything.
Do the troubleshooting, in accordance with your manual, and replace as needed.
Good luck,
Scott
before you replace anything, check for spark and see if you can get it to kick off with the starting fluid. to check a stator properly you have to have the engine running. if it wont run you can never check the stator or rectifier. but it is very possible for a bad stator to take out a rectifier, ive seen it
Have all parts on hand,, before starting,, I have had crank seals dry out and go bad,,,. While waiting for parts and time to put back together,, three or four days,,,
Thank you for taking your time to show this very helpful sequence. I may be doing this myself soon. Though i JUST had my rotor stator/regulator replaced this year, but for some reason since that was done, the new battery that was in, failed...they said it was a bad cell but now im noticing that the new battery is being run down??? so much that it wouldnt start the bike. My bike would just suddenly die when it would be put under load, then itd work again..now it happened 3 times in 3 minidea?
Very important to check main ground, battery connections too. Put your neg lead of the volt meter on the battery and pos lead on the engine block and hit the starter. You should not see more then .1 to .2 volts on your meter. Engine running the Stator puts out a/c voltage and the rectifier changes that voltage to DC current. Good clean grounds very important to protect the stator and electronics.
Yes! Yes! Yes! Thank you Chuck for your excellent information.Scott
is that the starter motor has included Alternator to charge the battery while the engine's run?
Excellent Series! Thanks so much.
Jim, you bet brother! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I have a small oil leak from the plug hole for the stator, I was thinking of pull the stator out and cleaning everything up and putting some Permatex on the plug and reinstalling.
But I am unable to loosen the bolt to the compensator. Even standing on my breaker bar didn’t work.
To stop the leak would this work, pull the plug out forward a half inch clean it and apply Permatex Ultra Black then stuff it back in the hole?
I know this is an old video but I'm getting ready to do this job on my 2003 Heritage and have watched and studied all these vids to a fault. I've referenced my service manual as I watched the vids and all looks the same. I'm not a fan of doing my own "electrical" work but I'm also not a fan of paying a shop 4 or 5 hundred bucks to do this job. If you, or anyone else, has any other pointers or advice I'll be grateful. Wish me luck!
Eddie,
You can do this job!
Take a look at the tools and materials you need, you don't want to be delayed due to not having what you need on hand.
Review the comments about breaking loose the compensator nut... Others have posted suggestions.
Don't forget to add fluid when you are done.
Make SURE you USE a torque wrench.
Read read read the manual.
Take video as you go. Mark the time you start and stop. Report back to us and let us know how long it took a first timer to complete the job.
Try to avoid being interupted; this is when errors can occur.
Stay away from the beer until you are FINISHED. A buzz can cause you to make dumb mistakes.... Like between inch lbs and foot lbs.
Have fun and good luck!
Scott
Approx 1:30 in to video the oil seal and spacer around crank in view. Seal has 1 flat side, which side goes toward the case?
thanks for posting this video it is a tremendous help, I am in the process of putting everything back however I am having trouble putting the rotor with the chain back in place. Can you tell me how I can do this without disassembeling my clucth pack?
@ 66166616able - I can't remember what I used. I likely used the blue locktite as that is the same color on the four small allen heads.
I bought one of those Kuryakan (sp?) LED voltmeter things. Actually, I bought it two years ago and have yet to put it in. Maybe this year. I do check the charging voltage from time to time with a DVM though. Still, I should quit procrastinating and get that damned voltmeter installed this year. Maybe when I replace the intake seals. Good excuse to remove the tank and wire the meter closer to where it matters, the battery.
Thank you VERY much ! I owe ya a beer !
@gliderp - I installed mine on my FLSTC and man am I HAPPY!~ I love the thing!
Check my other videos and you will see my installation.
thanks for posting this video series very helpful, I however have a problem with extracting the female recv'er of the stator, your demo was very smooth and easy I am having a helluva time getting mine out do you have any tips on how to loosen it up so that when I tap the female rcvr it will move?
@VTwinOnline
Guess what? My 'Dyna is all apart for a cam change. I had a bad noise suddenly start up and it appears I have 1 bad tappet roller, and the inner cam bearing bearing was just beginning to go. The cage broke, and some of the needles are showing some galling. Guess while It's up on the jack and all apart I'll finally get around to putting the silly voltmeter in, and do my least favorite job of changing the fork oil.
I light them off using a jumper battery or battery pack if the motorcycle battery is low. NEVER JUMP FROM A RUNNING VEHICLE.
You don't need a functioning stator or regulator to run from a charged battery etc. Your no-start problem (likely solved given the post date, but this may help others) will be something else.
I have a question, my 1983 FLHT Electra Glide has a connector that is going bad but the stator is still good, theres a voltage regulator.
My question is, can I replace just the connector and if so, where do I find a connector? I can't find it anywhere online.
Great video! Thank you!
@VTwinOnline I bought a 1997 dyna, that was made into a trike in 1997 (was a 97 dyna thT WAS REARENDED) a COMPLETE S&S motor was built, It has a Kliktronic shifter in it,. Bike had 18,000 kms I boiught it from nova scotia. Bike sat for 5 yrs before i had it shiped to b.c, neded an inspection done and the shop recomended i change the charging system as it was one from a sportster @28 amps they put a 32amp in. I havent dontr anything to the bike cept that. They "suspect" ig mod
@missionron - you definitely have a problem beyond your rotor/stator and regulator. I would start by taking a close look at ANY modifications you have made to electrical. Sounds like you have a short/ground . I know it sounds like a pain, but... Harley makes a pretty solid product; it's not until you start messing with it that you have problems.
Hope you come back and share what you find.
Thanks for your post,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
Thanks for the videos,i bought a stator kit from dennis kirk V-FACTOR
Charging System for Big Twin - 17833
Part #: 209980
Mfg Part #: 17833
kit came with a 1 1/8 x 3 1/8 washer ?
my bike does not have one on it?
My bike is a 1996 flhtp.
ordered manual waiting for it to arrive. Thanks for any advice in advance.
D p - my advice is follow what the service manual and manufacturer's instructions.
Take your time. Take Video/Photos. And wait to drink the beer until AFTER you have started the bike and completed a charge test. 13.5-14.5 volts at the battery terminals with the bike running.
If you don't already have one, install a volt meter on the bike to monitor your battery volts at all times.
Make sure you have the proper tools! I'm talking Torque Wrench, Gaskets and lube/loctite.
Oh...check the comments in my videos....lota of tips in the comments; and consider watching other videos besides mine for other good tips.
Good luck! I am sure you are going to do well.
Sincerely,
Scott
@@VTwinOnline Thanks,will repost when manual arrives.
Just curious. What kind
of oil do you run in your primary of the 3 failed stators.
When you change a stator for 2007 deluxe softail do you need to remove the inner primary
How many hours does it take to remove and put back on the Stator??
did you find anything? im getting ready to change out the stator on my 06 vulcan 900
Link to where to get them removal tools would be great
V-Twin MFG
Would replacing a stator on a kawasaki vulcan be similar to this one?
If you have had three failures, what could that point too? Or is that the lfe of a stator?
If your stator is failing, I would stay you have a short/ground somewhere. Check all your aftermarket wiring. That's typically where the failure happens.
@missionron - You likely have a short/ground or lack of a ground. I would check ANYTHING modified from after FACTORY wiring. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded. It's a pain I know... but ya just gotta go through everything.
Not sure of the relationship w/ the bike under load.
You NEED to install a battery monitor. Search: Kuryakyn LED Battery Gauge - Installation / How to (1 of 10) or see playlist on my channel.
Good Luck,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
GOOD VIDEO. I WILL TRY THAT. MY NEW BATTERY DIES TOO FAST AFTER EVERY FIRST RIDE. I TURN IT OFF AND IT WILL ONLY CRANK AND CLICK AFTER LIKE IT HAS A DEAD BATTERY
But a volt meter on your battery with the bike running. You should have 13.5-14.5 VDC.I added a Kuryakyn battery monitor for the very reason of monitoring battery CHARGE voltage. This way you will know if your stator is failing. @watch?v=sQLUaSzfTYM&list=PL7F1F2437FC399C2A
VTwinOnline thank you.
VTwinOnline Stator is good. voltage regulator is bad.
sinaloakid1 I apologize for my late response. Thank you so much for following up on your post. It's users like you the make this "video" forum so helpful to ALL OF US. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!
Scott
VTwinOnline.com
Hey man,,,, do you have any vids on changing the crankshaft seal on that same side ? mine is a 96 inch S and S with the belt drive clutch, and I am getting oil in my Primary. Is it hard to change once you remove the stator,,, ?????? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
tantricmaster800 I was just thinking about them crank seals,,,, had one tore apart and then needed parts,,,,. Waited till the weekend,,,,. Put it back together,,,,. Then it's smoked like hell,,,,, the seals dried out while I had it apart,,. In 3 or 4 days,,,. Other bikes the seals went bad 3 times because of bad crank bearings,,,,. Crank had a groove war in it from the seals,. ,,,. 29000 MI. Piece of junk,,,,
Is it hard to change a stator in Yamaha road star
Not sure. Never done one before. Can't imagine it's that hard of someone else can do it. It's all about having the proper tools and the manual. You CAN do it.
@MrObserver1847 - You can do this without "disassembling" whole assembly.
Search CZcams for: Stator Repair - 3b of 9 - Clutch Assembly Removal - Tool Listing
Good Luck,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
I don’t care what anyone say, Harley-Davidson does not need to be using the chain primary drive system. It’s nothing more than a high maintenance, rough running legacy item. A gear drive primary system is a smoother standard and Harley-Davidson can use it and keep the current primary cover for appearances.
Theres a company called "CTEK", they makes The Worlds Best battery-chargers for all kinds of vehicle & auto batteries - A CTEK charger starts the charge by testing the battery "is it okay?" & "how good is it?" - after that, it starts charging, and when charged to "maximum level" it tests the batt again. If there is an unstable current from the battery back to the charger, the charger will Pulse-Charge the batt to wake-up dead battery cells. The charger doesnt say OK before the batt is 100% OK!
@MrObserver1847 - So you pushed/pulled it out. Hummm... okay. LOL. Whatever gets it done. I don't think I would have considered that option; but now I will.
Putting that new stator plug in is a bear. This is the only part in my series that "magically" happened. Read all the posts under the installation video... a few guys have offered other ideas to make it an easier job.
THANK YOU for staying in touch.
Good luck,
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
VTwinOnline Stator won't come off engine
have oil in my stator.... how do i remove and replace the main seal?
bejqmmin - RTB - Read the book. Sorry I don't have a video for that just yet; and won't begine to explain the process here. Get the books... you CAN do it! Good luck, Scott V-TwinOnline
VTwinOnline if it is a wet clutch sys. oil in the crankshaft cover is going to be there isn't it...?
bejqmmin 2008 Electra Glide classic
@ Mitch - Please check your manual. I beg that you do not attempt this project with out it. And as an owner, you should have both the Service manual and the parts manual. They will both serve you well.
I don't think it's required to remove the inner. ;-)
Take it easy,
Scott
PLEASE, PLEASE, buy the manual.
how do i unplug the wires from, the regulator to the stator on a 80 cubic inch EVO
Toby,
Not sure I follow your question here.
Be sure to read the manual, twice!
Hit me up if you still have questions.
Be safe,
Scott
VTwinOnline.com
nevermind - there was no plug. mine was a cycle electric stator - wired direct throught the case plug
Toby George nice work.
VTwinOnline Can a malfunctioning stator or regulator/rectifier, cause a no power to the coils situation..? (i had no spark at the plugs,then took a test light and got no 12 v at either coil,but great cranking...)
Toby George pulll
what are the torque specs on those nuts ?
+James Kennedy Shop manual!
Stator bolts 30 - 40 inch pounds
@MrObserver1847 - Bigger Hammer. lol! Not sure what else to tell you. Someone may have used sealent to prevent leaking.
By the way, I had one HECK of a time putting the new stator "plug" through the case...I ended up trimming the "plug" with my knife to get it to slide in.
Good Luck and let us know what you find and what you did to get it free.
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com
lol , ''as per manual'', my 2009 Ultra manual doesn't even show
stator in the index, and apparently there is no charging system
either. .. oh yeah, and no wheel alignment. : ) this list is pretty
endless.
Maybe it doesn't have a stator. 😂🤣 jk
Yer right; that's pretty disappointing putting it nicely.
Not sure. Search CZcams: Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Alternator Stator Generator Tuxedo Mod Repair
youtu "dot" be/AN-JEBCnhDI
مترجم
poolpoolification - Good luck brother... keep us posted as to how things go.
Scott
V-TwinOnline . com