19th Century Half Leather Library Binding Part 2 of 4 // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- This series of 4 videos will cover the construction of a robust half leather binding used for library books in the 19th and early 20th century in England. The design is a combination of techniques covered in 3 books, Advanced Bookbinding by J. Kay (1932), The Thames and Hudson Manual of Bookbinding by Arthur Johnson (1978), and Bookbinding by William Matthews (1929). The characteristics are split board attachment, tight-back binding with tape supports, a wide French groove joint, minimal edge paring of leather and no paring of the joints. The minimal paring make it an excellent introduction to leather binding.
This second video will cover backing, lining the spine, and attaching the split boards.
These videos are only possible thanks to the support of Patreons, and if you are able, your support would be greatly appreciated.
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I understand not everyone wants to use Patreon. I also very much welcome and appreciate one-off contributions. This can be done through PayPal.me/dasbookbinding
DAS Bookbinding CZcams Channel guide
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The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding CZcams Channel guide.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely. - Jak na to + styl
Darrin's voice is so soothing. Sometimes I listen to him after a stressful day to help me fall asleep.
Wow, I love that you mentioned David Pye and his book. I am relatively a new bookbinder (10 years) but I've been a sculptor for over 30 years now. When I look at the workmanship of other artists I can see elements in their work where risk was taken, thus my appreciation of the piece amplifies. I feel like I want to stand up and give them a round of applause and say, "Wow, right on ! That person conjured up a lot of courage to make that move."
Your dialogue is refreshingly to the point and practical.
The background music complements perfectly.
Thank you.🦊
Thank you for your videos) They are very helpful)
Thanks!
Hi! I just discovered your channel and I'm watching through all the videos in order from oldest to newest. I'm planning to get back into bookbinding soon, so your videos have been very encouraging and inspiring already!
I see you have a Tools for The Beginner Bookbinder (posted about a month ago - I'm posting this on Feb 7, 2021); I'd just like to suggest that it would be cool if you did a "shop tour" video, so that we can see how you organize your workflow, etc.
Thanks for watching! I have the worst process flow possible, which has been made worse by making videos and everything getting piled up on benches out of the way while making videos:) Maybe. Keep an eye on my community tab for an unlisted video. DAS
Very nice job and video :)
Thanks!
I'd like to see a video about the tools, equipment and shop setup that you use.
Working on a tools video now. Might add a quick shop tour at the end. All the ebst, DAS
@Zaire Ray Has nothing to do with my comment
This wonderful. I was also hoping you would add a music list and see you did at the bottom of your list. Thank you!
Hi DAS
Love your videos
Binded my first book very happy with it, all because of you
I was wondering where you got you backing irons from?
My backing boards are made by Frank Wiesner
www.wiesnerwoodcraft.com
DAS
Thank you, love your videos. Why did you sprinkle water on the final spine lining before gluing, and did the water have to dry first?
Good question. If you don't know about the property of paper called grain, I have a video that explains this. Paper expands with moisture perpendicular to the grain. We always have the graining running head to tail in books. When I apply adhesive to the fairly thick kraft paper, one side expands and the paper curls. If you leave it awhile (which I did in the video but cut it out) the moisture soaks through the paper and the other side expands too and the paper flattens back out. If I just put adhesive on the paper it would curl in the direction away from the book and would be hard to put on the spine. Also once I force the paper onto the spine it will expand more and form wrinkles which I then have to work out with a bone folder and rubbing paper. So wetting the paper makes it easier to put the spine liner on. It is worth doing some experiments with strips of paper to see how this works. By now you probably understand I don't let it dry before applying the adhesive. Have fun!
Your instructions are so precise . Thank you. May I ask if you could possibly make a video on various types of bookbinding that allows a book to lay flat open ? And that needs minimal equipment . If you could that'd be great. Thank you once again.
Thanks! For a book to open well the paper grain has to go head to tail, it should be sewn sections, the spine should flex and throw up (what bookbinder came up with that terminology!), which means it needs a hollow back, and minimal equipment means it isn't backed (no shoulders on the spine). The binding that jumps out is a square back Bradel binding. It isn't perfect, but the minimal equipment limits things. If you want really actually flat, then springback is the way to go, as that is what it's designed to do. But a lack of a press would make me struggle. Maybe stand on it?? Anyway, hope that helps. Happy binding!!
@@DASBookbinding hahah you have a great sense of humour 😂 Thank you for taking the time to reply. What I'm looking for is making my own sketchbooks, that's why the question ! I need a method that is doable and the book shd lay flat open 😊 I'm just a beginner at bookbinding... learning thru CZcams videos so any info is good ! ( also there is so much stuff on the www that it is easy to feel lost , if you know what I mean)
@@darshanadee7920 Yep, easy to get lost. I consider the coptic sewn journal the gateway drug to bookbinding. It is not the greatest book. But it does open flat and is easily done by a beginner. I recommend my video on this because I think I do a much better job on the board attachment. But there are so many videos on this structure, and they often focus on the aesthetics. So watch the others for ideas on how to make it look nice, but follow mine to get the boards attached well. And then if you are not over bookbinding, I'm starting a sketchbook this weekend. Goes live at 4am Australian EST.
@@DASBookbinding well that's great ... I may not be able to catch the live bcos I'm in India but I'll be sure to watch the replay later 💙 And I'll check your coptic binding video as well. Thanks so much 📚😊
@@darshanadee7920 Not live live, just becomes available. I need some editing to hide my mistakes:)
Thank you for your videos ! I have a question. Why the gap between the backing shoulder and board must be 4mm(+ leather thicknes x2), from what depending and how change it 4mm in other bookbinding's ?
I use a 4mm knitting needle to make the groove and I allow 2mm (about 2 thicknesses of the leather) for the leather to fit into the gap. I use 4mm because it's a bit thicker than the board thickness. On a largish springback with 5mm thick boards I'd use 6mm cord to set the groove and thus leave an 8mm gap - again 2 thicknesses of 1mm leather. I'd rather a joint wider than needed than a cover that binds when opening.
Thank you for the video!! May I ask what presses do you use please? Where can I buy them?
I use Frank Wiesner presses. He lives in Toowoomba, Queensland. In North America he sells through Frank Lehmann www.lehmannbindery.com/frank.html and in Europe and Australasia I think the best bet is send him an email or give him a call. He loves to talk to bookbinders. www.wiesnerwoodcraft.com/
Hi! Your videos are amazing! Can you share with us the brand of your square aka your "new toy" you got: the right angle ruler with metal edge. I really would like to get one for book binding and for sewing pattern drafting I do. Also, you maybe have it listed on your website, but if you had any inclination for a future project/video to list out your tools and brands/ your dream tools (if you don't already own them) and/or tools you'd recommend, that could be super awesome. Thank you so much from Los Angeles! :)
Hi LA! I have a video on my basic tools in the works. Not sure why it's taking me so long. The square is a Chartmate MT-42B. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding You're the best! Thank you so much for the reply and info. Keep up the 5 star work. DAS Bookbinding: the rockstar of the bookbinding world! Warmly and with gratitude from Hollywood. :) Michelle
I have a question. I have seen when they do leather bound and the boards lacing in body , the gap between backing hinge and edge of board is very small about 1mm. Ηow do you explain this big difference in gap between 6mm(in yours version) and 1mm(the others versions with lacing boards) ?
It's a different bindings style with different goals. This binding is for a library book that is expected to be read a lot (not a modern library of course). The idea is that the leather at the hinge can be thick and the boards still open. At the beginning of the video I compared to 2 other bindings, both of which were bound as you described with laced in boards and the leather flush across the joint. So the covers can open nicely the leather at the joint is usually pared thin, which can be a weakness. Of course the leather library binding is rare now while the hollow back binding is common. So it is clear which priorities have won. But I think the library binding is under rated and is a great starting point for leather binding because of the minimal paring required.
You talked a bit about the disadvantages of this type of binding, but what are the advantages?
To me, it seems like a lot of work for something proven not to last a long time, and that has those disadvantages you talked about, on top of the aesthetic bit that I'm sure I'm not alone about, where the edge is concave, giving each page a different apparent width, narrowing as you're closing the middle of the book and widening the further away from the middle you get.
Do I say it doesn't last a long time? The advantages are that it is very strong and will take a lot of use. It would last a very long time if it didn't get used. But a library binding was expected to get used a lot. It was designed to last longer than standard hollow back case bindings which are prone to text separating from the case at the inner hinge. The spine has the same shape as the fore-edge, so each page is still the same width. Ciao, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Ah, gotcha
Hi, a silent fan who finally decides to ask a question :)
I find myself in the position of having to bind a book of about 700 pages, in A4 format, possibly with a square back. The book must be able to open flat and will be used a lot. Is this system suitable? Or can you suggest more suitable solutions?
(by the way, I happened upon your channel by chance and you opened up a world for me. Thanks :))
Thanks for watching my videos and I'm glad you like them. I think a well made rounded and backed case binding can't be beat for opening really well and being strong and easy to make. I think the library binding is very good too, maybe better, but more work. Neither lays completely flat, but few books do. Most of the commercial books that open flat usually fail in a few years. Hope this helps. DAS
What is the advantage of making a hollow for the spine? I’m new at this and still learning ... thanks.
Generally it allows the book to open flatter. The mechanics is complex and you can make arguments the other way too. It also means the cover material on the spine doesn't get worked as hard as on a tight bound book allowing more elaborate decoration. DAS
@@DASBookbinding - I can understand your point about allowing more elaborate decoration. Gilding would be more difficult with a hollow as the spine is softer making imprint less crisp - Got it. I really wanthank you for providing such wonderful classes - by far the best I've seen and I've watched almost all of them. Your clear explanations and attention to detail really does put us at the side of a Master. Thanks Again.
I noticed some of your fingers are blue-ish: Did you record this the same day you sprinkled ink on the edges or is it another day and the ink is just one of those that take an eternity to go away and completely ignores all the scrubbing with water, alcohol, &c. ?
Same day. It did take a bit of scrubbing, but gone the next day. It was just watered down acrylic.
DAS, since you know so much, tell me something, please..
Marbled paper used to be waxed in the past? I think marbled paper has a waxy feel both in endpapers and covers on most antique books. And I think it makes sense to apply wax or some sort of modern spray varnish, because modern marbled papers made with acrylic paint become white-ish to the slitest trauma... even Crepaldi papers I use... they show every single imperfection of the greyboard under, and get ugly by very small trauma like nails or objects hitting the book. Should I wax or spray them with varnish?
I'm not sure about knowing so much, but... It was and is common to wax and/or burnish decorative papers. I wax my paste papers. I just use a wad of soft cotton and rub it on bees wax and then forcefully rub this on the paper. I like the soft texture it gives the paper and it is protected from moisture and careless glueing. To get a polished surface I'll sometimes burnish with an agate burnisher. It is time consuming. I've read about decorative paper makers in the past having a bench with a big burnishing stone hung above it to burnish papers. I'm not sure about spray or varnish. I've never done anything like this. Regards the grey board showing through, I sometimes line boards with paper to get a smooth surface and light colour. I'm doing this a lot while learning to work with vellum. Happy binding! DAS
@@DASBookbinding The idea of lineing the grey board is great! About the varnish, there is a spray fixative varnish that is used by artists for fixing charcoal and dry pastels, so it's apropriate to paper. I will try with a small piece first. There are 3 finishing options: shine, medium shine and matte.
Let me ask you smothing else, please. Do you read on your books anything regarding 100% paper bindings? Like if it was just marbled paper, without the leather or cloth. Was it usual in the past? Because I see pictures of 100% marbled books, but I don't know if the books are covered in paper, marbled vellum or marbled leather.
Hello! Can you tell me about that scrim? Which material used in it and where I can buy it? So far I've found something looking like that scrim in the local polygraphy. It is called called polygraphic gauze and used in modern books binding. Is that the same thing?
Any loose weave cotton cloth is fine. You could even cut up an old pillow case. Doesn't have to be special. But at some point you might want to buy some scrim/mull/super from a bookbinding supplier. Much easier than trying to find other replacements. The postage will be more than the material. If you're in Brisbane you can drop by the bindery and buy a lifetime supply for $5.
@@DASBookbinding Im living in Ukraine.. here is quite problematic to find any traditional bookbinding tools and materials. Even such simple stuff as bonefolder. So I'm looking for possible replacements. Moreover, it was even a challenge to even find a good acidic-free PVA glue. For wood yes, lots of PVA brands, but no for paper. Thank you for answer about mull material. I think I gonna buy that local "polygraphic gauze" and in additional for more durability I gonna add linen stripes.