One thing to note that I missed in this video: in the LEA motors (direct injection) there is a thin metal washer that sits on top of the crank timing sprocket. The timing mark is under that washer. If you do not remove the washer and go off that mark you more than likely will be a tooth off. I point out the wrong timing mark.
alot of people make the mistake of putting the chain slack on the right side, which goes on to jump the chain again. its supposed to be on the side of the tensioner. great job bro u real smart.
Lucas, thanks so much for doing these videos on the GM 2.4! The timing chain failed in my daughters 2012 Equinox, fortunately it happened at a stop light and the engine was at idle, so just some bent valves. I ended up swapping the cylinder head with a used one I got from a salvage yard. Your videos made the job a whole lot easier and I picked up some good habits (marking bolts that have been torqued!). I ended up having to also replace a cracked exhaust manifold and had to pull the oil pan to clean out at the debris from the shattered chain guide. With 144K miles I also figured it was a good time to replace the water pump since I had it torn down. I can't thank you enough for the superb videos and the excellent advice. The engine started up right away and runs perfectly!
Interesting video as always! Defective / missing screws, unsuitable new tools, faulty? spare parts (seals) are always a challenge. In the end, patience and experience always pay off. As the old say: who makes no mistakes never learns anything. Thanks for your time and keep up the good work!
@@NotEnoughProjects thank you for your video, I have been following very closely when I overhauling my engine, but for some reason, my piston gets flooded with oil, ... New pistons, rings, block was sent to be cut for the new pistons and rings, new head, I been overhauling other engines, but this is the first time I deal with this problem, what can cause me to get oil into the pistons?
@@alfonsohern By piston gets filled with oil, do you mean the combustion chamber itself gets filled with oil? Strange issue if so especially if that's after a fresh rebuild. Most likely way I could see oil getting in that way is defective valve guides/seals letting oil drain past valve. Or if the spark plug well is filling with oil and filling the cylinder once you pull it that's a leaking valve cover gasket
Hello..i finished the job in m 2012 chevrolet captiva ls 2.4 just like this one following this video and the car start but it doesnt stay running the engine and some codes came out.p0016 and p0017..i replaced the big timing chain but not the small one.the one..do you think that is the problem?
Sorry to hear you've still got issues. The balance chain will not cause those codes, the timing chain is off at least a tooth. If you have the direct injection motor there is a small washer between the harmonic damper and the timing gear. That washer must be removed to see the timing mark, and it likes to stick onto the gear pretty solid. Very common to not do that and mistake a casting mark as the timing mark. That puts the chain a tooth off.
Okey..thank you so much. So i will have to remove the bigger timing chain again to recheck the mark under the washer you said. Thank you so much🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️😀😀
I'm not familiar enough with the 2.2 engine management to give you a definite answer, but my initial thought is that it is likely more work than it's worth. Ecu and wiring likely would need changed
You can put it in. The ECM will probably need to be swapped and programmed for the 2.2 Depending on the programming, you may not need the VSS wires You may need to move the harness to the engine too. You need to remember the 2.4 ECM is different from the 2.2
Hello. Love your videos. I am in the same process, rebuilding a 2011 gmc terrain 2.4 ecotec. Because of space limitations, I had to do it in the car yay. I consider myself a somewhat advanced diyer. In any case, I ran into the same issue with the injector seals. My gasket set did not have enough seals and I managed to mangle a few as well. My question is where did you find more seals? It seems noone sells the teflon seals separarely, only as a kit. The stealer wants $138 ouch!!
Looks like I did forget to link them. Added it to the description. These seem to be doing well, no issues to date. www.ebay.com/itm/265410335388?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mXuT-JpnQSi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LaFhT0AoTXe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hello..the piston on the timing chain tensioner the one you put last is very loose the one i bought..is supossed to be that way?the piston in the old one is hard and in the new one very loose..
I'm guessing what you mean is that the new tensioner does not get the chain very tight once you unlock it. If that is what you mean then yes it is normal. These tensioners have a weak spring and ratchet mechanism. The spring doesnt do much to tension, but instead when the engine is running oil pressure pushes the plunger out and the ratchet keeps the plunger from returning. The new one hasn't had that oil pressure behind it yet. If I misunderstood please let me know
Hello.good morning..i replace the inner timing chain also but the timing chain i got has 3 black links.it doesnt have the golden one..and i was unable to see the timing marks on the balance shafts.so if i put ot wrong it will be the reason still i have the codes 16 and 17 for the camshaft position sensor?
Many aftermarket timing sets have all three colored the same. Compare the new chain to the old one to determine which colored link is the crank one. You definitely want to make sure the balance shafts are timed correctly if they are not you will have very bad vibration. I think I showed the balance shaft timing mark in the video.
Not sure how many turns it would take. If your chain has marked links you can count how many links between the painted marks and then count the links from one timing mark to another
I'm rebuilding this engine (rings and valves) due to the issue with burning oil because of the rings. It only has 70k miles, so I wasn't going to replace stuff like the timing related bits. Now that I have it back together I noticed the timing chain gets slack between the two phasers each revolution. It makes a kind of clunking sound as the tensioner goes in and out. Is this normal? I don't have oil in it (I do have assembly lube of course) so I'm wondering if the pneumatic action in the tensioner is not in play and causing this temporarily now? I'd appreciate your opinion on it. I see there is a little slack between your cam gears also as your turn it, but not to this extent. Video showing it is here: czcams.com/users/shortsKSaunpl1B6M
I would not recommend turning over the engine with a drill like that. The timing chain could jump due to the slack and fast turning. Also, the slack may be exaggerated by turning with the drill If you released the tensioner and the marks are all lined up I wouldn't be concerned. The tensioner on these is primarily applied via oil pressure. Once the engine fires up it will take out the slack and ratchet into position
@@NotEnoughProjects Thanks. It also does this turning it with a wrench. It droops the same amount between the camshaft gears. I went ahead and ordered a whole kit with the cam gears, tensioner and rails.
New to the Channel very detailed info but did you replace your timing chain bolts if so do you have a link I tried using the same bolts and two of them broke?
Those bolts are a very common weak point. ZZP has them. You may be able to source from the dealer as well. zzperformance.com/products/zzp-ecotec-timing-chain-guide-bolt?currency=USD&variant=40087228153918
Doing this right now in the car. I heard some noise when you manually turned the engine over after getting it all times up. I had the same thing. I was concerned so double checking my work
Yeah, the noise is pretty typical. Every timing chain has areas with more or less tension due to the irregular force of the valve springs on the cam lobes. The noise is the tensioner taking up the chain slack and the cams snapping in and out of position. Once the engine is running the chain is tensioned further from the oil pressure.
First video I’ve seen that addressed the tricky parts about this job like how to get the timing chain on….others skipped that like it wasn’t the most important part.
Hey can you help me find a link to a 2011 2.4L equinox LAF engine, Or help me with a link for these timing guides? I cannot find it, awesome upload man by the way I’m using your videos as my model
Hi, by timing guides are you talking about the plastic timing guides that the chain rides on? If so rockauto has them here www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2012,equinox,2.4l+l4,1502198,engine,timing+chain+guide+/+damper,5728
One thing to note that I missed in this video: in the LEA motors (direct injection) there is a thin metal washer that sits on top of the crank timing sprocket. The timing mark is under that washer. If you do not remove the washer and go off that mark you more than likely will be a tooth off. I point out the wrong timing mark.
alot of people make the mistake of putting the chain slack on the right side, which goes on to jump the chain again. its supposed to be on the side of the tensioner. great job bro u real smart.
Definitely! Easy mistake to make. Thanks!
Lucas, thanks so much for doing these videos on the GM 2.4! The timing chain failed in my daughters 2012 Equinox, fortunately it happened at a stop light and the engine was at idle, so just some bent valves. I ended up swapping the cylinder head with a used one I got from a salvage yard. Your videos made the job a whole lot easier and I picked up some good habits (marking bolts that have been torqued!). I ended up having to also replace a cracked exhaust manifold and had to pull the oil pan to clean out at the debris from the shattered chain guide. With 144K miles I also figured it was a good time to replace the water pump since I had it torn down. I can't thank you enough for the superb videos and the excellent advice. The engine started up right away and runs perfectly!
Very happy to hear that! Thanks for watching, and I hope it lasts many miles to come!
Good job. Always nice to have the engine out, whole lot easier still and all you've got good patience and knowledge... thanks for sharing the videos.
Definitely nice to work off the stand! Thanks for watching
Honest video. Mistakes are important and some cut that footage. Well done. We all are always learning.
Thanks! Mistakes are the best way to learn
Interesting video as always! Defective / missing screws, unsuitable new tools, faulty? spare parts (seals) are always a challenge. In the end, patience and experience always pay off. As the old say: who makes no mistakes never learns anything. Thanks for your time and keep up the good work!
Absolutely agree, thanks as always!
@@NotEnoughProjects thank you for your video, I have been following very closely when I overhauling my engine, but for some reason, my piston gets flooded with oil, ... New pistons, rings, block was sent to be cut for the new pistons and rings, new head, I been overhauling other engines, but this is the first time I deal with this problem, what can cause me to get oil into the pistons?
@@alfonsohern By piston gets filled with oil, do you mean the combustion chamber itself gets filled with oil? Strange issue if so especially if that's after a fresh rebuild. Most likely way I could see oil getting in that way is defective valve guides/seals letting oil drain past valve. Or if the spark plug well is filling with oil and filling the cylinder once you pull it that's a leaking valve cover gasket
Wet your rags with water, get them moist and no fire 🔥 😎👍
Lol, should have started with that
Clear and concise. As it should be. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
Great job 👏
Thanks!
Another way to tell about the intake/exhaust chain markings is theres 14 links between them, regardless of color.
Thanks, good info.
INSTEAD OF THE GREY ANTI SIEZE YOU SHJOULD USE THE COPPER ONE THEY MAKLE ON THE SPARK PLUGS AND ENGINE HARDWARE WHERE TEMPS GET HOTTEST.
True, the copper anti seize is good stuff
Hello..i finished the job in m 2012 chevrolet captiva ls 2.4 just like this one following this video and the car start but it doesnt stay running the engine and some codes came out.p0016 and p0017..i replaced the big timing chain but not the small one.the one..do you think that is the problem?
Sorry to hear you've still got issues. The balance chain will not cause those codes, the timing chain is off at least a tooth. If you have the direct injection motor there is a small washer between the harmonic damper and the timing gear. That washer must be removed to see the timing mark, and it likes to stick onto the gear pretty solid. Very common to not do that and mistake a casting mark as the timing mark. That puts the chain a tooth off.
Okey..thank you so much. So i will have to remove the bigger timing chain again to recheck the mark under the washer you said. Thank you so much🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️😀😀
The reason you broke the bolt is because its supposed to be at 8.83 ft lbs, not 11 ft lbs. And how bout getting your towel wet, no fires
That sounds correct
What would happen if I put a 2.4 in my 2007 Chevy Malibu had 2.2 all would hook up but don't need to sensor in top value cover
I'm not familiar enough with the 2.2 engine management to give you a definite answer, but my initial thought is that it is likely more work than it's worth. Ecu and wiring likely would need changed
The 2.2 and 2.4 are in the same engine family.
You can put it in.
The ECM will probably need to be swapped and programmed for the 2.2
Depending on the programming, you may not need the VSS wires
You may need to move the harness to the engine too.
You need to remember the 2.4 ECM is different from the 2.2
Hello. Love your videos. I am in the same process, rebuilding a 2011 gmc terrain 2.4 ecotec. Because of space limitations, I had to do it in the car yay. I consider myself a somewhat advanced diyer. In any case, I ran into the same issue with the injector seals. My gasket set did not have enough seals and I managed to mangle a few as well. My question is where did you find more seals? It seems noone sells the teflon seals separarely, only as a kit. The stealer wants $138 ouch!!
I thought I linked them in the description, but maybe I forgot. I'll try to find it again. Pretty sure I found it on ebay. Glad to hear you enjoyed
Looks like I did forget to link them. Added it to the description. These seem to be doing well, no issues to date.
www.ebay.com/itm/265410335388?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mXuT-JpnQSi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LaFhT0AoTXe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hello..the piston on the timing chain tensioner the one you put last is very loose the one i bought..is supossed to be that way?the piston in the old one is hard and in the new one very loose..
I'm guessing what you mean is that the new tensioner does not get the chain very tight once you unlock it. If that is what you mean then yes it is normal. These tensioners have a weak spring and ratchet mechanism. The spring doesnt do much to tension, but instead when the engine is running oil pressure pushes the plunger out and the ratchet keeps the plunger from returning. The new one hasn't had that oil pressure behind it yet.
If I misunderstood please let me know
Hello buddy..one question..this vehicle need a gasket on the oil pan?or just some silicone?
Hello.good morning..i replace the inner timing chain also but the timing chain i got has 3 black links.it doesnt have the golden one..and i was unable to see the timing marks on the balance shafts.so if i put ot wrong it will be the reason still i have the codes 16 and 17 for the camshaft position sensor?
Many aftermarket timing sets have all three colored the same. Compare the new chain to the old one to determine which colored link is the crank one. You definitely want to make sure the balance shafts are timed correctly if they are not you will have very bad vibration. I think I showed the balance shaft timing mark in the video.
@@NotEnoughProjects okey..thank you so much for your help..i will start again..🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️
Question how many full turns for the chain links to line up with all the points?
Not sure how many turns it would take. If your chain has marked links you can count how many links between the painted marks and then count the links from one timing mark to another
I'm rebuilding this engine (rings and valves) due to the issue with burning oil because of the rings. It only has 70k miles, so I wasn't going to replace stuff like the timing related bits. Now that I have it back together I noticed the timing chain gets slack between the two phasers each revolution. It makes a kind of clunking sound as the tensioner goes in and out. Is this normal? I don't have oil in it (I do have assembly lube of course) so I'm wondering if the pneumatic action in the tensioner is not in play and causing this temporarily now? I'd appreciate your opinion on it. I see there is a little slack between your cam gears also as your turn it, but not to this extent. Video showing it is here: czcams.com/users/shortsKSaunpl1B6M
I would not recommend turning over the engine with a drill like that. The timing chain could jump due to the slack and fast turning. Also, the slack may be exaggerated by turning with the drill
If you released the tensioner and the marks are all lined up I wouldn't be concerned. The tensioner on these is primarily applied via oil pressure. Once the engine fires up it will take out the slack and ratchet into position
@@NotEnoughProjects Thanks. It also does this turning it with a wrench. It droops the same amount between the camshaft gears. I went ahead and ordered a whole kit with the cam gears, tensioner and rails.
New to the Channel very detailed info but did you replace your timing chain bolts if so do you have a link I tried using the same bolts and two of them broke?
Those bolts are a very common weak point. ZZP has them. You may be able to source from the dealer as well. zzperformance.com/products/zzp-ecotec-timing-chain-guide-bolt?currency=USD&variant=40087228153918
@NotEnoughProjects thank you for your help I wish you much success
Doing this right now in the car. I heard some noise when you manually turned the engine over after getting it all times up. I had the same thing. I was concerned so double checking my work
Yeah, the noise is pretty typical. Every timing chain has areas with more or less tension due to the irregular force of the valve springs on the cam lobes. The noise is the tensioner taking up the chain slack and the cams snapping in and out of position. Once the engine is running the chain is tensioned further from the oil pressure.
89 inch pounds not 89 foot pounds
Correct
How much was complete to rebuild with all machining and parts
Great question. Ballpark under 2k. I'll get a spreadsheet together and put it with the next part.
First video I’ve seen that addressed the tricky parts about this job like how to get the timing chain on….others skipped that like it wasn’t the most important part.
Hey can you help me find a link to a 2011 2.4L equinox LAF engine, Or help me with a link for these timing guides? I cannot find it, awesome upload man by the way I’m using your videos as my model
Hi, by timing guides are you talking about the plastic timing guides that the chain rides on? If so rockauto has them here
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2012,equinox,2.4l+l4,1502198,engine,timing+chain+guide+/+damper,5728
WET TOWEL
Wet your rag before welding
That would be too easy lol
Thise gloves create a problem,take them off and get your hands dirty.
Should of used damp rag it wouldn’t catch fire
Yep lol
Great job 👏
Thanks for watching!