Hi, I'm wondering why I'm get jittering when my fps drop just tiny bit using MSFS with SRS and e racing rig ? why the motion data connected to FPS, is there a way to minimize or eliminate the issue ? Thanks
OH wow... the speed and response seems to be identical to the Scorpion which cost double?! And eRacing Lab sounds a bit better to my ears even with these unfiltered movement!
With this aasd how much noise difference is there compared to older black ones? Also, are there any sellers who sell those white ones separately? I am thinking of swapping from older to newer.
Night and day difference. The white ones have switching frequency of 16Khz which is virtually really hard to hear. Eracing-lab offers just the white drives if you need to swap the black ones you have: eracing-lab.com/collections/diy-projects/products/aasd-15a-pack
Are you wiring Neutral to ground on the 240v connection? I am wiring my servo drives now. It is my understanding this that 3rd wire(grey) is ground when 120v but becomes neutral when wired for 240v?
I would get a power converter so you can use truly single phase 220v, with Live/Neutral/Ground. When wiring 220v from grid in USA, you essentially wiring two 120v phases through the device, with the Neutral taking the place of ground. But in this case, even if the Neutral doesn't carry current, it still imposes 60v phase difference in perspective to true local ground... complicated but yeah. Just get a power converter from Amazon... a 2000 watt or 3000 watt should be plenty.
@tronicgr thank you for the response. My plan was to leave neutral disconnected and run a separate wire from the drives to my closet track which has screws into the concrete(ground). Am I crazy? Should I stick with the converter as you say?
I got my 4 E racing actuators today and for some reason while testing it with RSR studio software, one leg was up in the air while testing hive, roll and pitch. I'm not sure if it's software issue or something else. Thanks
I connected everything based on the instructions. Are the instructions based on seated positions when they talk about Left, right, rear and front ? Thanks@@tronicgr
@@tronicgr I'm considering this, yeah. Just don't have any experience with this so far. Apparently there are a bunch of FTDI drivers available for my Linux PC 🤔
Can you please make a video how to lube E racing lab actuators ? I removed the rubber feet but I'm not sure what to do next. which type of oil, quantity, and where to put it exactly ? Thanks
There are several step up converters on Amazon, depending on your system usage, a 2000VA to 3000VA should be enough. Just make sure it has fuse switch, just in case.
@@vikingcat794not much of a problem, there is trade off of lower Amperage using higher voltage. In short there is less power loss on the motors and work to their full spec
@@tronicgr so plugging my drivers into a 110v ups plugged into the output of the step-up doesn't present a problem? And I would leave the drivers set to 220v?
Love your walk through. I installed this a month back and it’s been nothing but a game changer
I have their kit and it's great. Use it every day, almost plug and play and rugged :)
same here. It's been 2 years and has not missed a beat!
I also can't change any of the settings on the Thanos screen. Maybe I have a bad unit ? Thanks
What module is that from the wiring part
Hi, I'm wondering why I'm get jittering when my fps drop just tiny bit using MSFS with SRS and e racing rig ? why the motion data connected to FPS, is there a way to minimize or eliminate the issue ? Thanks
OH wow... the speed and response seems to be identical to the Scorpion which cost double?! And eRacing Lab sounds a bit better to my ears even with these unfiltered movement!
I prefer raw unfiltered telemetry especially on laser scan tracks
With this aasd how much noise difference is there compared to older black ones? Also, are there any sellers who sell those white ones separately? I am thinking of swapping from older to newer.
Night and day difference. The white ones have switching frequency of 16Khz which is virtually really hard to hear. Eracing-lab offers just the white drives if you need to swap the black ones you have: eracing-lab.com/collections/diy-projects/products/aasd-15a-pack
Are you wiring Neutral to ground on the 240v connection?
I am wiring my servo drives now.
It is my understanding this that 3rd wire(grey) is ground when 120v but becomes neutral when wired for 240v?
I would get a power converter so you can use truly single phase 220v, with Live/Neutral/Ground.
When wiring 220v from grid in USA, you essentially wiring two 120v phases through the device, with the Neutral taking the place of ground. But in this case, even if the Neutral doesn't carry current, it still imposes 60v phase difference in perspective to true local ground... complicated but yeah. Just get a power converter from Amazon... a 2000 watt or 3000 watt should be plenty.
@tronicgr thank you for the response.
My plan was to leave neutral disconnected and run a separate wire from the drives to my closet track which has screws into the concrete(ground).
Am I crazy? Should I stick with the converter as you say?
I got my 4 E racing actuators today and for some reason while testing it with RSR studio software, one leg was up in the air while testing hive, roll and pitch. I'm not sure if it's software issue or something else. Thanks
Probably connected actuators in wrong order... Did you check with eracing-lab for instructions?
I connected everything based on the instructions. Are the instructions based on seated positions when they talk about Left, right, rear and front ? Thanks@@tronicgr
Is there a description for the USB protocol used by the Thanos motion controller? Asking because the Windows driver is kinda useless for me :-/
@@BekoPharm it uses FTDI driver for the USB. Are you trying to use it on non windows computer?
@@tronicgr I'm considering this, yeah. Just don't have any experience with this so far. Apparently there are a bunch of FTDI drivers available for my Linux PC 🤔
Can you please make a video how to lube E racing lab actuators ? I removed the rubber feet but I'm not sure what to do next. which type of oil, quantity, and where to put it exactly ? Thanks
I think the most qualified person to answer that, would be Alex from eRacing Lab. Have you tried to contact them about it?
@evanphotography5149 so do we have to Grease things our selves I thought this was a plug and play kit. Sounds a little more than that
they seem to be much louder then the black one next to each other? How the noise with4 of them?
I'll be making a full review on a rig soon, so we will find out 😁
They are actually much quieter during in-game
czcams.com/video/DGlWd-c3f0Y/video.htmlsi=7kPYJ4tDbQK3i5Wd
How do you lube/grease the actuator after a while ?
Just need to remove the rubber feet
What step up converter do you recommend?
There are several step up converters on Amazon, depending on your system usage, a 2000VA to 3000VA should be enough. Just make sure it has fuse switch, just in case.
@@tronicgr my only problem is my UPS is 110v I believe.
@@vikingcat794not much of a problem, there is trade off of lower Amperage using higher voltage. In short there is less power loss on the motors and work to their full spec
@@vikingcat794also helps that many of these power converters have soft start to avoid overloading your UPS.
@@tronicgr so plugging my drivers into a 110v ups plugged into the output of the step-up doesn't present a problem? And I would leave the drivers set to 220v?
Delivery on Brazil?
Shouldn't be a problem. Did you contact eracing-lab about it? eracing-lab.com/collections/rs-series
@@tronicgr Ineed just thanos controller..
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