I think I prefer the second one, the tucks are nice but I really like the black stripes and that one looks like it hangs a little straighter if that makes sense. How much fabric did each skirt take?
"And now we cry. And we unpick." I suspect that one resonates hard with everyone! "How freaking heavy it is" - me and my first wool skirt. Which I am now seriously considering making some tucks to, because I trip over it and don't want to cut it. Both equally cute for different reasons!
I have a heavy wool skirt that I lined with medium weight cotton. That I wear hunting in northern Ontario during late fall. It’s a little shorter so it doesn’t drag on the ground. I also used a modern brush resistant camo 6” strip at the hem. To help prevent snags. It feels like wearing a comfy blanket all day. I also made a Victorian day coat in the camo. So I look completely out of place in a modern hunting setting! Lol. But I don’t look like a potato, like all the other women hunters I see up there! Lol
@@inthewindago Woo, Ontario fist-bump (I'm Eastern ON but my in-laws are up North)! I don't hunt and prefer pants for most outdoor work cause I'm an utter slob and destroy everything I touch when I'm working or gardening, but congrats on your hunting outfit!! I always look like a potato because of how I'm shaped, I'm even having trouble with men's pants falling off my hips now since I gained some muscle around the middle, if I pad myself out to other than potato, I end up knocking things over with the hips I'm not used to having! Even with that wool skirt I made, I dropped the pleats from a wide waistband so they'd be bulkier at the hips instead of the waist (I have enough bulk there, thanks) and I still knock stuff over around my house.
I made myself a skirt using that Butterick 5970 pattern, and it was a nice experience! I shortened the hem a lot during the cutting process, so that it is more like a walking skirt than a promenade skirt now. I also skipped the hem interlining part; instead, I flat lined the whole thing with linen (upcycled an old Soviet bedsheet), so that the skirt is now very thick, it does not crease (in fact, it barely bends, which I love - looks like a bell or a dome around my waist), and the best part is that no wind can get through. Wearing this in autumn in St.Petersburg (a very chill and windy city due to its geography), I was probably the warmest dressed woman in the area. Also, added Victorian-sized pockets - the kind that can fit a 0,5 l watter bottle each. Love it, even though the pattern definitely needs some adjustment.
I loved the comparison of the two skirts, it shows that going with one of the big four ISN'T that bad and should be people's go to if they want to. I do also think there are issues with some of the old original patterns - having made a few there are ALWAYS issues with seams not lining up properly or just some very generous sizes that make me think they were a little more slap-dash then we would like to think.
I think they both look lovely on you! Worn in a modern way the butterick really comes through for the pear-shaped girlies so of course you look great. I feel like the Edwardian skirt's bottom floof has really incredible potential when the back closures are all finished up. Every time you turned I was mesmerized by that movement. And the ribbon at the bottom is so cute!
It was interesting seeing both done. The Edwardian skirts do put their fullness in back for bustle flair while keeping the front slim. But Buttrick wasn't bad. You can do a lot with both patterns.
"...taking a big four pattern like this and making it wearable for you. You don't have to follow the pattern exactly as it is." That might be my favorite thing about watching your videos- you shamelessly adapt patterns to what You need, instead of just making The Pattern. It's very encouraging to me, and makes me feel a little more confident in my own adapting, which may occasionally include frankensteining a couple patterns together for what i want. i think i like the butterick skirt more, surprising myself. it looks more Floofy and Swoosh.
I really liked The Voice of Fashion skirt! Looked ideal for everyday life, with it being moderately voluminous and a bit lighter in appearence, even if the hem width was a bit more. But I think the tucks on the Butterick increased the mid width of that skirt quite a bit in comparison? Both are very lovely and suit you well 🤗
I really enjoyed seeing this comparison! Butterick apparently did a decent job of incorporating historical methods in their modern pattern, but the lines were adjusted to modern anesthetics. Fascinating! I love them both for different reasons. The Edwardian one is lighter and more "sedate." The modern one is warmer and swooshier, further, I like the way it hangs being interlined.
I have a petticoat that had been my great-aunt's from the Edwardian period. Initially it had been floor-length, but she put in several tucks so that she could wear it with a shorter dress. Exactly like what you did with the first skirt. I love them both!
I've done almost this same exact thing with a hand-drafted Edwardian skirt! I made a wearable mock-up that I chopped about 10" off, but left so that it's just above my heels. When I made it in the heavy wool for winter, I made it a even few inches shorter (just above ankle length), so that it wouldn't get mucky in the snow. (And yes, both have pockets!)
This is such a fascinating premise! I really like both skirts on you. They look similar and yet different enough that they wouldn't feel repetitive. I would absolutely watch more of these videos if you did this with other garments/patterns.
I like the voice of fashion one best, but the pictures on the modern skirt look really nice. You might need to add a bustle pad to the back of the VOF one to help it sit better like Bernadette Banner did.
I usually use the Victorian walking skirt pattern I have. Drafted from a 1893 original piece. I love wearing a full length shirt. Even when out camping and hunting. My hunting skirt is heave wool. With a brush resistant camo strip at the bottom. To help keep the wool from getting snagged. It is a little shorter than my day to day skirts. Being a couple inches off the ground. Instead of just brushing the ground. It weighs a ton, but feels like being wrapped in a warm blanket! So I love it! I use a herringbone twill tape at the hem of all my skirts. So I can replace it. When it starts to show wear. Something I think all full length skirts should have. To improve longevity.
This was such a fun video! The Butterick skirt was closer to the Voice of Fashion skirt than I had expected. I can't pick a favorite since I like them both for different reasons.
The Edwardian skirt pulls down it the back. Because all the gathering is concentrated their. So it’s heavier in the back. The new pattern composites for this buy reducing the concentration of gathers. The Edwardian skirt was designed to be worn over a bum pad. That would support the gathers and extra weight. Buy reducing the waist, you will only force the skirt to sit higher on your waist. The only way to fix that drooping. Is to wear a bum pad, or redistribute the gathers over a greater aria. I know, I wear almost exclusively Victorian walking skirts.
As a woman of a certain age, my natural waist can vary over an inch in a single day. I find having more than one button or hook/eye is a great way to handle that, as you recommend.
Very interesting. I have the Butterick pattern and wondered how easy it would be to make that skirt. Thanks also for ideas on how to adapt the skirt to make it more practical.
I am sometimes an idiot. For 3 months I have been trying to figure out how to do several different things, and looking all over the internet mostly CZcams and Pinterest... I own the books that answer those questions, and they were sitting next to me the entire time. I am also really really glad I stopped nearly all my projects to learn more. Because I have a much better idea of what I'm doing now. Ps. I am definitely going to try that flannel interfacing.
Historical skirts are often drafted far too long and that's because 'finish in the usual way' or 'regulate the length by the tape measure' LOL Cheers doll!
I like both. Love the tucks in the butterick and the trim on the historical patter. I think this is a great video format as it shows folks how to adapt big 4 patterns if they want.
i like the edwardian skirt (with the stripes) the most, but judging by the other comments so far im on the 'losing' side 😆. definitely putting one of those on the future project list that seems never ending 🙃
I fell into the same trap with voice of fashion. The graded rulers are really only to be used for body widths, not length. But they dont tell you that. Also, Im part of a large group of historical costumers where we have been making Victorian costumes for over 20 years, and very few of us have successfully used Voice of fashion.
@@francesgrimble9394 AS i have a 46" waist...the lenghs of the skirt became visibly impossible haaaa.... but they did have i think rulers for height and length. either way the same ruler for width doesnt work for length.
@@InMyQuietude Well, despite the body size, the waist to floor and overall body height doesnt vary much. Back then skirts tended to be 38" from waist to floor, but today, even those who are shorter tend to be that same length to about 40" from waist to floor. As Im really large, Ive taken base skirt patterns, and slash and spread them open. You take any said gore and dont add or subrtact to seam points, but add the required amount thru the centre and open them out. You somewhat do this by eye, because each skirt pattern has its own design line, and so long as you keep the design line, (ie where does the actual seam of that gore sit on the body and floor) the waist size (which in standard Edwardian patterning was about 28"), youre just widening the skirt gores from the centre of the gore. Also being llarger, i do tend to slash them down a second line and angle them out, as the flare also needs to be proportional. If youre large, what looks like a large sweep on the skirt, can be lost easily on a very plus size, so you adjust that too. If you add inches to the seams, and you have sweeps that at the lower end of that have specific type curves, you can distort the seam line matching points and the sweeps might not sit right. Ive done this multiple times with very specific styled Edwardian skirts, where the big circular sweep came from the CF piece and around the hemlineline of the side and back gores. Hard to explain without drawing that one. But slash and spread, from a smaller size was the only way to get a consistent shape. Also with bodice pieces, taking a pattern and doing a slash and spread is also our standard way of making larger body pieces. As every womans corseted body is different in proportion - everywhere, doing this to toiles really is the best method of getting your pattern right. VOF is ok for a "standard" body proportion of the day, within a small range, but beyond a certain point the size becomes severely distorted, and my skirt length was hillariously long...just silly!! Also if you think about it - when women gain wieght - not all put an even amount of weight around the body. Some increase in bust only, some hips as well, and some put it across their tummy and back more than the hips. This is where the rulers do make it hard, and can create just as distorted bodices as modern patterns. So, the graded rulers was more of a marketing ploy IMHO than an actual helpful tool across the spectrum of human variability. Hope that helps. LOL
@@InMyQuietude Just as an aside, when increasing the length of skirts that have sharp curves on them (ie fish tail styled skirts), esp with the Edwardian bustle form corsets and bum pads), to increase it to correct height, you dont just "add" to the waist and hem (which would be the easiest way to increase length on A LINE skirts). Slash and spread principle works best here too, esp at the areas of extra fullness. I added an inch at the waistline, 2 over the hips and one extra at the knee, which brought the hem to the floor or what ever length i wanted it to be. That way, the outward sweep of the skirt remained intact as per the pattern.
@@InMyQuietude Same here - now im mid 50's I need a new wardrobe too. Youre instincts were correct. One thing to also note: in Norah Waughs books, she has pattern schematics of the 1850's bodices from German dressmaking sources, and interestingly they show for the 1850's bodices, an underarm piece, which isnt seen in English patterns until the 1870's to 1880-'s. Thsi si because as a general rule, German women were bigger in the bust and generally curvier than English women. Also know that the 1850 bodice of 2 back pieces and 1 front piece with a dart, (which originates from the simpler forms of the Regency era) and with pagoda jackets also using a whale dart at the waist - were children in the 1840;s which were famine conditions in the UK and when you deprive children of food, they grow up to be petite adults, in the decades that follow. Hence the such small bodices of the 1850's and 50's owards. The 1840's were dubbed the "hungry 40's" as there was a famine and reports of parishners being found "clemmed to death" was common. EVen for the middle classes they were deprived too, so were smaller. SO - you were doing the instinctive thing by adding an under arm piece. I have always used under arm pieces as even at my smallest I was a 46" bust and 38" waist, but now Im 56" bust and 46" waist. But there comes a point where you do slash and spread, AND add an under arm piece. On other platforms im known as Rox Ansand, and im in Aust, so Im VERY happy to make friends with any soul who shhares a love of this - and i do provide online help for things. I would love to see what youre doing. Im also in the plus sized historical costuming f b group . Wd
Thank you so much for making this video! I love the detail you shared with customizations. I have the same Butterick pattern and have only cut the lining. I’m now of a mind to customize a petticoat version of the skirt first. Then, use it to create the pattern for the skirt.
I like the solution of adding tucks! The first time I made a gored skirt that was that much too long I turned it into a empire waist dress 😂 that I think was my first functional item of clothing
This was such a great video! Both concept and editing. The differences and similarities were interesting and since the skirts are shorter I prefer the Butterick one with the swoosh. If they were full length I would personally prefer the slimmer one with all the pleats in the back fanning out into the train. Both turned out great though and I’m sure you’ll get much use out of them
I'm loving the Voice of Pattern skirt! I'm a big fan of the more fitted waist, and adore the pleats in the back.. I will have to find this book so I can draft some of my own!
I really liked the pin tucks on the first skirt and the velvet stripes on the other!!!! I want them both now! Next time I head to the city I'm definitely going to the fabric store!
Loved both skirts - can’t say which I liked best. This was a very interesting and helpful video. I’ve had difficulty with hems in the past and I will try some of these ideas. Thanks! Shelley
I have the book called Edwardian modeste. I made a walking skirt from it and had the same issues with the pattern being huge lol I thought I did something wrong in drafting and checked it over and over again. I did it properly so had to alter it massively. Such a waste of time and fabric. But I love the book. I also have the voice of fashion book as well.
Well done, Cat! I really like the wool suiting fabric you used. Both have very nice sheen and drape, but I do like your pintucked skirt the best! Very cute!!
Loved the test of two patterns only I would suggest use a Simplicity costume pattern or a McCall's against a Butterick. 😉 Funny or maybe not funny to know that a 1900 pattern from Butt had a mistake in it!! Even today I always check the pattern for mistakes from them.
Thanks for showing your little goof! I don't do much garment sewing, so I am struggling with a simple modern McCalls pattern. Between a disturbing lack of thorough instructions, and the fact that I don't trust the pattern in the first place, I have made a few goofs and was feeling kind of stupid. It's nice to be reminded that it happens to even the most seasoned sewist!
Great video, I’m glad to have seen a more experienced seamstress deal with the Ewardian book because I don’t know that I would have trusted myself to say there was something wrong with the pattern rather than my drafting. I really like the look of the skirts. The butterick looks more modern at the end (the tucks are lovely) probably because there is less fullness at the back which is something you don’t really see anymore. Being also pear shaped (but larger than you) I don’t know that I would be confident enough to have all that fullness on top of the already existing fullness 😅 on you it looks lively though so maybe it’s in my head.
Both came out very well. I think I like the pintucked hem one the best. Don't know why really. Maybe the stripes around the other skirt make it look more dressy? Either one I would wear for all sorts of different occasions. I've made skirts with the lining and interlining and they are my go to skirts for Winter as they are so good at keeping my legs warm. Thanks for sharing this with us. Job well done!
This is a delightful video, and both skirts are really nice, but I liked the Edwardian skirt a lot more. I like the narrower silhouette from the front, with the pleats in the back.
I have made the Butterick pattern. I also shortened it to a similar length. However I made the skirt shortened it to where I wanted it before adding the stiffening to the bottom of the skirt. I did this because I'm always shorter than commercial patterns and I didn't want Promenade length either
Such a fascinating video, thanks so much! I think I prefer the Edwardian skirt, and I think the "lack of swoosh" is just a perception thing because the back swooshes A LOT where the volume is. I love the two-button solution for corset v bra.
I don't wanna say it as I'm currently battling and getting frustrated over a butterick corset pattern 🥴🙈🤣, but the butterick one is my favorite of the two skirts. They both look great and make a great addition to the Edward Ian inspired every day wardrobe I think 😍
What is your issue with the Butterick corset one? I have made myself two: a corset and a pair of stays, both pattern 4254, which I found rather simple. Maybe I can offer some advice?
@@Axiniana hi there, that's really kind of you, the instructions or construction isn't a problem really, I agree it's very straightforward and simple, but rather a sizing issue. The measurements seem to be off, I checked several times but my finished mockup turned out at least 3 sizes too big, even with generous sa 🥴not a deal-breaker, just very annoying
It just goes to show the Big 4 patterns aren't that bad really and can produce good results. Shame about the styling on the envelopes and not many larger sizes, but still perfectly useable!
If I had that butterick skirt I would put two petticoats (one with a train) beneath it and raise it to ankle length... letting the train just touch the ground in the back.
I like them both but I don't have a lot of junk in my trunk so the 1900 one wins for me. I like the volume of fabric in the back. The tucks on the Butterick skirt look great even if you might have wanted to set it on fire while making them. 😁
They're both so pretty! I think the white blouse works better with the black stripes. Maybe a different style white blouse would work better with the tucks. It seems like too much texture between the 2. I've been considering shortening a skirt I made and didn't want to chop anything off...tucks are a definite possibility!
Those are lovely skirts! I love the practical nature of them. And the wool blend fabric looks amaze. I feel like the Adjusted rulers instructions are really incomplete and they don't really tell you how to use them properly. I've found the measurements never work out correctly when using the rulers. Like if I use the one ruler for all the measurements (like they say) it's massive, yet when I use normal inches for the length numbers and the adjusted ones for the across numbers it looks completely wrong. Like wide and squashed. But when I've done them up as just plain inches it works perfectly (albeit too small for me). Super frustrating.
I really enjoyed your video. You do a lovely job of educating and keeping it real. I’d love to know the book’s suggestion of how to make tucks across a gored skirt. Could you describe what they said to do? It could be helpful with a project of mine. Thanks!🧵
For sure! The section where they talk about making tucks starts on page 56 and they call them 'nun tucks' archive.org/details/dressmakinguptod00butt/page/56/mode/2up
The Edwardian definitely looks period- the flat front and any fullness at back but is still definitely wearable today and cute. The butterick feels more history bounding- and more fitting for modern wear as it drapes and swings more. Personally I prefer the hem of your Edwardian with the shape and drape of the butterick.
Which skirt did you like best? 🤔 I thought I'd made up my mind while filming and after editing I am torn again! 🤣
I'm torn as well. Both skirts work, they just work differently. Well done, both are lovely.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
I can’t decide either. So both!
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Exactly. How goes the room makeover?
I think I prefer the second one, the tucks are nice but I really like the black stripes and that one looks like it hangs a little straighter if that makes sense. How much fabric did each skirt take?
@@stevezytveld6585 Cathy I’ve got all the plan and I’ve got a pickup for the old bed Wednesday. Once that’s out the parking begins
"And now we cry. And we unpick." I suspect that one resonates hard with everyone!
"How freaking heavy it is" - me and my first wool skirt. Which I am now seriously considering making some tucks to, because I trip over it and don't want to cut it.
Both equally cute for different reasons!
I have a heavy wool skirt that I lined with medium weight cotton. That I wear hunting in northern Ontario during late fall. It’s a little shorter so it doesn’t drag on the ground. I also used a modern brush resistant camo 6” strip at the hem. To help prevent snags. It feels like wearing a comfy blanket all day.
I also made a Victorian day coat in the camo. So I look completely out of place in a modern hunting setting! Lol. But I don’t look like a potato, like all the other women hunters I see up there! Lol
@@inthewindago Woo, Ontario fist-bump (I'm Eastern ON but my in-laws are up North)! I don't hunt and prefer pants for most outdoor work cause I'm an utter slob and destroy everything I touch when I'm working or gardening, but congrats on your hunting outfit!! I always look like a potato because of how I'm shaped, I'm even having trouble with men's pants falling off my hips now since I gained some muscle around the middle, if I pad myself out to other than potato, I end up knocking things over with the hips I'm not used to having! Even with that wool skirt I made, I dropped the pleats from a wide waistband so they'd be bulkier at the hips instead of the waist (I have enough bulk there, thanks) and I still knock stuff over around my house.
I made myself a skirt using that Butterick 5970 pattern, and it was a nice experience!
I shortened the hem a lot during the cutting process, so that it is more like a walking skirt than a promenade skirt now. I also skipped the hem interlining part; instead, I flat lined the whole thing with linen (upcycled an old Soviet bedsheet), so that the skirt is now very thick, it does not crease (in fact, it barely bends, which I love - looks like a bell or a dome around my waist), and the best part is that no wind can get through. Wearing this in autumn in St.Petersburg (a very chill and windy city due to its geography), I was probably the warmest dressed woman in the area.
Also, added Victorian-sized pockets - the kind that can fit a 0,5 l watter bottle each.
Love it, even though the pattern definitely needs some adjustment.
I loved the comparison of the two skirts, it shows that going with one of the big four ISN'T that bad and should be people's go to if they want to. I do also think there are issues with some of the old original patterns - having made a few there are ALWAYS issues with seams not lining up properly or just some very generous sizes that make me think they were a little more slap-dash then we would like to think.
I think they both look lovely on you! Worn in a modern way the butterick really comes through for the pear-shaped girlies so of course you look great. I feel like the Edwardian skirt's bottom floof has really incredible potential when the back closures are all finished up. Every time you turned I was mesmerized by that movement. And the ribbon at the bottom is so cute!
It was interesting seeing both done. The Edwardian skirts do put their fullness in back for bustle flair while keeping the front slim. But Buttrick wasn't bad. You can do a lot with both patterns.
"...taking a big four pattern like this and making it wearable for you. You don't have to follow the pattern exactly as it is."
That might be my favorite thing about watching your videos- you shamelessly adapt patterns to what You need, instead of just making The Pattern. It's very encouraging to me, and makes me feel a little more confident in my own adapting, which may occasionally include frankensteining a couple patterns together for what i want.
i think i like the butterick skirt more, surprising myself. it looks more Floofy and Swoosh.
I really liked The Voice of Fashion skirt! Looked ideal for everyday life, with it being moderately voluminous and a bit lighter in appearence, even if the hem width was a bit more. But I think the tucks on the Butterick increased the mid width of that skirt quite a bit in comparison? Both are very lovely and suit you well 🤗
I really enjoyed seeing this comparison! Butterick apparently did a decent job of incorporating historical methods in their modern pattern, but the lines were adjusted to modern anesthetics. Fascinating!
I love them both for different reasons. The Edwardian one is lighter and more "sedate." The modern one is warmer and swooshier, further, I like the way it hangs being interlined.
I have a petticoat that had been my great-aunt's from the Edwardian period. Initially it had been floor-length, but she put in several tucks so that she could wear it with a shorter dress. Exactly like what you did with the first skirt. I love them both!
I've done almost this same exact thing with a hand-drafted Edwardian skirt! I made a wearable mock-up that I chopped about 10" off, but left so that it's just above my heels. When I made it in the heavy wool for winter, I made it a even few inches shorter (just above ankle length), so that it wouldn't get mucky in the snow. (And yes, both have pockets!)
The pocket scenario is so frustratingly relatable! I felt that in my very core.
This is such a fascinating premise! I really like both skirts on you. They look similar and yet different enough that they wouldn't feel repetitive. I would absolutely watch more of these videos if you did this with other garments/patterns.
Yeah! Well done. Thanks for showing the differences.
To me, the butterick looks much more late 1890s than the 1905 style of the voice of fashion. The different weights give quite a different look
I like the Edwardian one! And the velvet ribbon is a really pretty detail
I like the voice of fashion one best, but the pictures on the modern skirt look really nice. You might need to add a bustle pad to the back of the VOF one to help it sit better like Bernadette Banner did.
I LOVE this comparison. If you don't see Edwardian skirts side by side, you really can't tell the difference. I love BOTH of these skirts.
I love that first skirt so much
Well, I'm a sucker for tucks, so I have to go with that one. But I also love velvet! Tough choice. They both came out really well.
I usually use the Victorian walking skirt pattern I have. Drafted from a 1893 original piece. I love wearing a full length shirt. Even when out camping and hunting. My hunting skirt is heave wool. With a brush resistant camo strip at the bottom. To help keep the wool from getting snagged. It is a little shorter than my day to day skirts. Being a couple inches off the ground. Instead of just brushing the ground. It weighs a ton, but feels like being wrapped in a warm blanket! So I love it!
I use a herringbone twill tape at the hem of all my skirts. So I can replace it. When it starts to show wear. Something I think all full length skirts should have. To improve longevity.
Both are lovely. Great fabric choice.
This was such a fun video! The Butterick skirt was closer to the Voice of Fashion skirt than I had expected. I can't pick a favorite since I like them both for different reasons.
The Edwardian skirt pulls down it the back. Because all the gathering is concentrated their. So it’s heavier in the back. The new pattern composites for this buy reducing the concentration of gathers.
The Edwardian skirt was designed to be worn over a bum pad. That would support the gathers and extra weight. Buy reducing the waist, you will only force the skirt to sit higher on your waist. The only way to fix that drooping. Is to wear a bum pad, or redistribute the gathers over a greater aria. I know, I wear almost exclusively Victorian walking skirts.
As a woman of a certain age, my natural waist can vary over an inch in a single day. I find having more than one button or hook/eye is a great way to handle that, as you recommend.
Very interesting. I have the Butterick pattern and wondered how easy it would be to make that skirt. Thanks also for ideas on how to adapt the skirt to make it more practical.
I love this video and video concept! I’d love to see more pattern verses historic videos!
I am sometimes an idiot. For 3 months I have been trying to figure out how to do several different things, and looking all over the internet mostly CZcams and Pinterest... I own the books that answer those questions, and they were sitting next to me the entire time.
I am also really really glad I stopped nearly all my projects to learn more. Because I have a much better idea of what I'm doing now.
Ps. I am definitely going to try that flannel interfacing.
Tucks and ribbons on skirts are so cute!
Very cool! The pocket comment made me laugh, i definitely have been in this situation many times...
The peek of the wide pintuck skirt in Glasgow countryside is absolutely lovely!
Historical skirts are often drafted far too long and that's because 'finish in the usual way' or 'regulate the length by the tape measure' LOL
Cheers doll!
I admire most those who show their mistakes. I thoroughly enjoy your video's and I do learn more about sewing.😊
Great skirts! It always amazes me that when I’m making a mistake it is usually my best executed piece of sewing in years.😂Thanks for the comparison.
This is a super fun video concept, Cat! Same kind of garment but two different patterns could be a whole fascinating series 💕
Thanks Cat! By the way, I feel your pain with the pocket mistake. I actually have done that myself with gored skirts. So very easy to become confused!
THESE LOOKED AMAZING!!!! the tucks in the first I love, because it shows how all those historical details we like are probably just alterations 🤣😍
This is great! I'm really glad to have come across this vid.
I think the tucks look great.
I like both. Love the tucks in the butterick and the trim on the historical patter. I think this is a great video format as it shows folks how to adapt big 4 patterns if they want.
You will be more happy with the heavy Butterick one when winter comes. I like that one better, though they are both lovely.
I had to pause at 14:02 because this skirt with your modifications is ADORABLE!
Now, that said, I'll continue watching...
“Historically adjacent.” That’s perfect for history bounding!
I like the fit of the Edwardian one better I think, it looks smoother
i like the edwardian skirt (with the stripes) the most, but judging by the other comments so far im on the 'losing' side 😆. definitely putting one of those on the future project list that seems never ending 🙃
I fell into the same trap with voice of fashion. The graded rulers are really only to be used for body widths, not length. But they dont tell you that. Also, Im part of a large group of historical costumers where we have been making Victorian costumes for over 20 years, and very few of us have successfully used Voice of fashion.
The instructions in the book do tell you to use inches for the length.
@@francesgrimble9394 AS i have a 46" waist...the lenghs of the skirt became visibly impossible haaaa.... but they did have i think rulers for height and length. either way the same ruler for width doesnt work for length.
@@InMyQuietude Well, despite the body size, the waist to floor and overall body height doesnt vary much. Back then skirts tended to be 38" from waist to floor, but today, even those who are shorter tend to be that same length to about 40" from waist to floor. As Im really large, Ive taken base skirt patterns, and slash and spread them open. You take any said gore and dont add or subrtact to seam points, but add the required amount thru the centre and open them out. You somewhat do this by eye, because each skirt pattern has its own design line, and so long as you keep the design line, (ie where does the actual seam of that gore sit on the body and floor) the waist size (which in standard Edwardian patterning was about 28"), youre just widening the skirt gores from the centre of the gore. Also being llarger, i do tend to slash them down a second line and angle them out, as the flare also needs to be proportional. If youre large, what looks like a large sweep on the skirt, can be lost easily on a very plus size, so you adjust that too. If you add inches to the seams, and you have sweeps that at the lower end of that have specific type curves, you can distort the seam line matching points and the sweeps might not sit right. Ive done this multiple times with very specific styled Edwardian skirts, where the big circular sweep came from the CF piece and around the hemlineline of the side and back gores. Hard to explain without drawing that one. But slash and spread, from a smaller size was the only way to get a consistent shape. Also with bodice pieces, taking a pattern and doing a slash and spread is also our standard way of making larger body pieces. As every womans corseted body is different in proportion - everywhere, doing this to toiles really is the best method of getting your pattern right. VOF is ok for a "standard" body proportion of the day, within a small range, but beyond a certain point the size becomes severely distorted, and my skirt length was hillariously long...just silly!! Also if you think about it - when women gain wieght - not all put an even amount of weight around the body. Some increase in bust only, some hips as well, and some put it across their tummy and back more than the hips. This is where the rulers do make it hard, and can create just as distorted bodices as modern patterns. So, the graded rulers was more of a marketing ploy IMHO than an actual helpful tool across the spectrum of human variability.
Hope that helps. LOL
@@InMyQuietude Just as an aside, when increasing the length of skirts that have sharp curves on them (ie fish tail styled skirts), esp with the Edwardian bustle form corsets and bum pads), to increase it to correct height, you dont just "add" to the waist and hem (which would be the easiest way to increase length on A LINE skirts). Slash and spread principle works best here too, esp at the areas of extra fullness. I added an inch at the waistline, 2 over the hips and one extra at the knee, which brought the hem to the floor or what ever length i wanted it to be. That way, the outward sweep of the skirt remained intact as per the pattern.
@@InMyQuietude Same here - now im mid 50's I need a new wardrobe too. Youre instincts were correct. One thing to also note: in Norah Waughs books, she has pattern schematics of the 1850's bodices from German dressmaking sources, and interestingly they show for the 1850's bodices, an underarm piece, which isnt seen in English patterns until the 1870's to 1880-'s. Thsi si because as a general rule, German women were bigger in the bust and generally curvier than English women. Also know that the 1850 bodice of 2 back pieces and 1 front piece with a dart, (which originates from the simpler forms of the Regency era) and with pagoda jackets also using a whale dart at the waist - were children in the 1840;s which were famine conditions in the UK and when you deprive children of food, they grow up to be petite adults, in the decades that follow. Hence the such small bodices of the 1850's and 50's owards. The 1840's were dubbed the "hungry 40's" as there was a famine and reports of parishners being found "clemmed to death" was common. EVen for the middle classes they were deprived too, so were smaller. SO - you were doing the instinctive thing by adding an under arm piece. I have always used under arm pieces as even at my smallest I was a 46" bust and 38" waist, but now Im 56" bust and 46" waist. But there comes a point where you do slash and spread, AND add an under arm piece. On other platforms im known as Rox Ansand, and im in Aust, so Im VERY happy to make friends with any soul who shhares a love of this - and i do provide online help for things. I would love to see what youre doing. Im also in the plus sized historical costuming f b group . Wd
Thank you so much for making this video! I love the detail you shared with customizations. I have the same Butterick pattern and have only cut the lining. I’m now of a mind to customize a petticoat version of the skirt first. Then, use it to create the pattern for the skirt.
I like the solution of adding tucks! The first time I made a gored skirt that was that much too long I turned it into a empire waist dress 😂 that I think was my first functional item of clothing
Thank you for the very interesting comparisons! I really like the ribbon decorations at the hem!
I love skirt number 2 !
This was such a great video! Both concept and editing.
The differences and similarities were interesting and since the skirts are shorter I prefer the Butterick one with the swoosh. If they were full length I would personally prefer the slimmer one with all the pleats in the back fanning out into the train. Both turned out great though and I’m sure you’ll get much use out of them
Love the ribbon treatment and the extra fabric in the back on the historic pattern. Looks great on you.
Love the tucks and ribbons. Love the trim on the hems. The length is perfect for a fall/winter skirt. Love!
I'm loving the Voice of Pattern skirt! I'm a big fan of the more fitted waist, and adore the pleats in the back.. I will have to find this book so I can draft some of my own!
I love the first one! It came out so good fatter altering.
I really liked the pin tucks on the first skirt and the velvet stripes on the other!!!! I want them both now! Next time I head to the city I'm definitely going to the fabric store!
Loved both skirts - can’t say which I liked best. This was a very interesting and helpful video. I’ve had difficulty with hems in the past and I will try some of these ideas. Thanks! Shelley
Great video as always! Have a wonderful week!
Surprised the difference; the flare and bottom treatment. Think I prefer the Butterick. Both cute on you. Thank you.
OOOOOOH I love this video so much! both skirts came out great and I love this video concept! you should make this a series
I really like them both they turned out so nice. Thank you for posting this it was very interesting to see.
Very interesting video! I often wondered how patterns differ within the same period. Well done and thanks!
I really liked this style of video - and I think the finished skirts look fantastic! I really want a winter work skirt like this as well.
I thought the comparison between the patterns was fascinating! So interesting to see how they differed
I have the book called Edwardian modeste. I made a walking skirt from it and had the same issues with the pattern being huge lol I thought I did something wrong in drafting and checked it over and over again. I did it properly so had to alter it massively. Such a waste of time and fabric. But I love the book. I also have the voice of fashion book as well.
This was such a fun video, thank you for the comparison!
Well done, Cat! I really like the wool suiting fabric you used. Both have very nice sheen and drape, but I do like your pintucked skirt the best! Very cute!!
Loved the test of two patterns only I would suggest use a Simplicity costume pattern or a McCall's against a Butterick. 😉 Funny or maybe not funny to know that a 1900 pattern from Butt had a mistake in it!! Even today I always check the pattern for mistakes from them.
Thanks for showing your little goof! I don't do much garment sewing, so I am struggling with a simple modern McCalls pattern. Between a disturbing lack of thorough instructions, and the fact that I don't trust the pattern in the first place, I have made a few goofs and was feeling kind of stupid. It's nice to be reminded that it happens to even the most seasoned sewist!
Great video, I’m glad to have seen a more experienced seamstress deal with the Ewardian book because I don’t know that I would have trusted myself to say there was something wrong with the pattern rather than my drafting. I really like the look of the skirts. The butterick looks more modern at the end (the tucks are lovely) probably because there is less fullness at the back which is something you don’t really see anymore. Being also pear shaped (but larger than you) I don’t know that I would be confident enough to have all that fullness on top of the already existing fullness 😅 on you it looks lively though so maybe it’s in my head.
Both came out very well. I think I like the pintucked hem one the best. Don't know why really. Maybe the stripes around the other skirt make it look more dressy? Either one I would wear for all sorts of different occasions. I've made skirts with the lining and interlining and they are my go to skirts for Winter as they are so good at keeping my legs warm. Thanks for sharing this with us. Job well done!
I like the second one more but both are great. Depends on what you are in the mood for.
I like both skirts. the flare difference makes them just different enough from each other.
Very useful info. You answered some of my wonderings.
The historical one was more flattering being a little flatter in the front. Just found you and enjoying the content x
I really like the tucks. I think the that was a great choice!!!
This is a delightful video, and both skirts are really nice, but I liked the Edwardian skirt a lot more. I like the narrower silhouette from the front, with the pleats in the back.
Beautiful skirts. A very interesting video.
Both skirts are really nice, but I think I like the first better.
I have made the Butterick pattern.
I also shortened it to a similar length.
However I made the skirt shortened it to where I wanted it before adding the stiffening to the bottom of the skirt.
I did this because I'm always shorter than commercial patterns and I didn't want Promenade length either
Such a fascinating video, thanks so much! I think I prefer the Edwardian skirt, and I think the "lack of swoosh" is just a perception thing because the back swooshes A LOT where the volume is.
I love the two-button solution for corset v bra.
I don't wanna say it as I'm currently battling and getting frustrated over a butterick corset pattern 🥴🙈🤣, but the butterick one is my favorite of the two skirts. They both look great and make a great addition to the Edward Ian inspired every day wardrobe I think 😍
What is your issue with the Butterick corset one? I have made myself two: a corset and a pair of stays, both pattern 4254, which I found rather simple. Maybe I can offer some advice?
@@Axiniana hi there, that's really kind of you, the instructions or construction isn't a problem really, I agree it's very straightforward and simple, but rather a sizing issue. The measurements seem to be off, I checked several times but my finished mockup turned out at least 3 sizes too big, even with generous sa 🥴not a deal-breaker, just very annoying
The Butterick looks like a really solid winter skirt.
I love your new sewing machine
the one with the lighter weight drapes better, but the flair of the heavier one is nothing to scoff at
It just goes to show the Big 4 patterns aren't that bad really and can produce good results. Shame about the styling on the envelopes and not many larger sizes, but still perfectly useable!
Thanks for mentioning my book!
I liked the second skirt better. It looked almost like an A line skirt. But they both look lovely on you!
If I had that butterick skirt I would put two petticoats (one with a train) beneath it and raise it to ankle length... letting the train just touch the ground in the back.
I like the swishy skirt better. Only because it's swishy. Other than that, I love them both.
I love it! Historical adjacent!
I like them both but I don't have a lot of junk in my trunk so the 1900 one wins for me. I like the volume of fabric in the back. The tucks on the Butterick skirt look great even if you might have wanted to set it on fire while making them. 😁
I like both but I think the butterrick is my favorite ☺️
I really like both, but the ribbon hem edges out the tucked just barely. The gathers at the center back are very flattering
Those patterns are for multiple size’s that’s why they are created like that. More adjustable up or down.
They're both so pretty! I think the white blouse works better with the black stripes. Maybe a different style white blouse would work better with the tucks. It seems like too much texture between the 2.
I've been considering shortening a skirt I made and didn't want to chop anything off...tucks are a definite possibility!
Those are lovely skirts! I love the practical nature of them. And the wool blend fabric looks amaze.
I feel like the Adjusted rulers instructions are really incomplete and they don't really tell you how to use them properly. I've found the measurements never work out correctly when using the rulers. Like if I use the one ruler for all the measurements (like they say) it's massive, yet when I use normal inches for the length numbers and the adjusted ones for the across numbers it looks completely wrong. Like wide and squashed. But when I've done them up as just plain inches it works perfectly (albeit too small for me). Super frustrating.
I NEED that weapon of choice T-shirt!
I've lost it since 😭
I really enjoyed your video. You do a lovely job of educating and keeping it real. I’d love to know the book’s suggestion of how to make tucks across a gored skirt. Could you describe what they said to do? It could be helpful with a project of mine. Thanks!🧵
For sure! The section where they talk about making tucks starts on page 56 and they call them 'nun tucks' archive.org/details/dressmakinguptod00butt/page/56/mode/2up
@@CatsCostumery Very interesting and helpful. The books section of fitting is good too.
The Edwardian definitely looks period- the flat front and any fullness at back but is still definitely wearable today and cute.
The butterick feels more history bounding- and more fitting for modern wear as it drapes and swings more.
Personally I prefer the hem of your Edwardian with the shape and drape of the butterick.