Thank you for taking the concepts and simplifying them. I have been watching your videos for a year and learned how to do my optician job better and prepared for the ABO. You are a gem and I really enjoyed the process and have learned sooo much!!!
I'm just a customer who is in search of the perfect pair of glasses (going on 6 years now) and these videos opened up my understanding and ability to communicate about aspects of optics where I feel my non-RX issue may be. I went to any optical where only after I came back a 3rd time b/c of not being 100% with my new pair they took them back and actually remeasured my PD against the frame PD and marked where my pupils would naturally align within the frame.... Could have saved a couple of trips and time if this was done on my first visit/order. I appreciate all of these video - very informative.
I’m an optician student. The more I’ve studied the material the more interested I’ve become. Could you please tell me conceptually, what is the most important thing to understand? Also, as an optician, what is the most important physical skill to sharpen? I love your channel ... keep em coming!
Daniel M, Whoa - OK - I could go on for hours here... Conceptually most important = lens thickness/cut-out to frame size and shape. Physical skill = the one that will make you stand-out among the crowd. That might be great fit/adjustments, that might be amazing finishing work. I'll keep em coming you keep on watching em. John
Thank you for the video. But, I have a question. When it is decentered, the subject looks at it from a point outside the geometrical center of the lens. Wouldn't this lead to a prismatic effect?
This is awesome..i am an optometrist and i am. tasked to train opticians every now and then. Although i have a different technique when doing training but this is just great. Thank you.
I would have to say, no. I doubt you can manually decenter for PD and then expect the edger to take care of an OC height. I guess it could work but you would have to experiment with the edger. The basics shown in the video assume no OC height = 1/2 the B. And OC heights are for higher powers and should be kept to around 0 - 5mm. If you need much more you have the wrong frame.
Hi I have a doubt, Decentering is all the time in the nose direction? I'm a student I read in a book if the Pd is bigger than A+DBL I have to decenter in base out direction, is it right?? Thanks
Nice explanation on decentration. I have one question and I am hoping you could answer. What is your standard height for the OC for single vision? Do you always place it on the datum line? Others are placing it 2 mm above the datum line. I am just wondering what is your standard practice if the customer didn't include the pupil height. Thanks.
ST covered in that video series. 100% honest - I can't find the process on layout for a round. I have tried and tried and tried... If I ever get a good set of instructions I'll be sure to share.
So with this concept you're saying that if a patient picks a frame where the pupil is closer to the nose bridge, the optician can send it to the lab to have it decentered?
Yarely, Goodness NO! This is done with in stock, single-vision lenses, in-house before edging. Lab de-centering by grinding is only done when cut-out is an issue. John
Hi great video, i have a nidek LE 9000 SX and ice mini. im new to glazing, ive tried to glaze SV specs but Patient PD is always way way off, can you help at all ? im trying the decentration in this video , when i put half PDS in under frame PD the ice blocker moves the centration and that where i block the lens, but PD is always off, do i need to decentre to make the correct adjustments. many thanks if you can help
Oh boy - you poor thing. I can't be 100% sure - but - the edger will have (usually have) two settings. 1) You block the lens on the OC and the edger does the calculations and decentration shift for you. This is usually called PASSIVE MODE. 2) You are doing the physical decentration and blocking and the edger is in PASSIVE MODE. I think that model will show you a little arrow and amount to decenter if you are in the mode where you are doing it? If you are overriding that either way things are going to get messy very quickly. Ask your lab for some junk lenses or better yet buy a box of cheap plano ones - mark/make a clear OC point and experiment. It is confusing as heck but if you stick with it, watch the videos and maybe even draw it out/take notes sooner or later it will click. Let me repeat that - it is confusing as heck so don't feel bad. Let me know if that helps. If you need more drop me an email instead. This may also be a question for the folks on OptiBoard since I'm sure someone over there is still running that machine and blocker too. I suppose if you are only doing basic sv stuff you could always drop the blocker entirely and switch to a manual blocker? John
@@LaramyKOptical hi thanks for your swift reply, I've been through quite a few planos already, i checked the mini ice its already in passive mode, once i change the half PDS the centration does shift and that's where I align and block , then cut lens and still no joy my process is ( real job I attempted just today) trace frame on edger frame shape is shown on ice mini FPD at top 70mm ( FRAME Ralph Lauren 54-16) I change the half PDS to RE 31.5 LE 31.5 for both eyes to mirror Patient PD (63mm) not sure if this is correct plz advise) blank lens is centered and marked on lensmeter blank lens is placed and aligned with markings on ice blocker (after I changed half PDS of patient ) lens is blocked on ice mini and edged using nidek LE 9000 SX PD checked again on lensmeter and over 10mm off (72mm ) Ive asked many people in the U.K but everyone uses Essilor any advice or help would be great
@@iqbalgtr There is no reason at all to split a PD of 63. If you just enter 63 do things turn out OK? With your FPD/PPD a difference of just about 10 and your PD being off by about 10 you are doubling up. Try just blocking on center ignoring the grid suggestions and see what happens? It sounds like a disconnect between the edger and the blocker? To see what those settings are you have to access the service menu. It sounds like you are second guessing what you are actually seeing? Nothing says that the blocker is right (that stuff is getting pretty old now). Again - maybe it is time to let the blocker go? That machine doesn't require one. I'm sure you could track down a used manual blocker (a light source/grid/block applicator) they don't connect with the edger at all. IMO if anything they are much easier to work with not harder.
@@LaramyKOptical Hi maybe I should disconnect the Ice blocker (the one i have is fairly new touch screen etc with camera) few queries when blocker imports shape from edger( after traced) and gives me FPD do i keep that number same I.e i dont change it ? 2nd underneath FPD it has 1/2 PD , is this where im suppose to put PX PD in ?? 3rd if i dont use blocker do i just manually put block on the centre of marked blank from lensmeter , and change PD under FPD on edger itself ?? would that work ? thanks
@@iqbalgtr I think that is your problem! Assuming the tracer is calibrated I can't see a reason to ever change the FPD which is your FRAME size. Your 1/2 is for your human if you have a monocular patient PD like 32/34 or 33/35. If the blocker is quite new then it is being connected to a machine that is quite old. It may be incompatible it may need the edger settings to be changed to correctly work with each other. It's been 30 years since I worked with that edger now. If you unplugged the blocker and switched to manual you would need to know which mode the edger is in. If it shows an arrow and an amount to move the lens then YOU move the lens and block it off the OC. If it doesn't then you block it on the OC and the edger takes over. You might want to nose around the internet and try to find a complete manual for both the edger and the blocker? I'm guessing a service call to NIDEK isn't possible?
You're an AWESOME teacher. So easy to understand. Clear and to the point. 😊
Thank you for taking the concepts and simplifying them. I have been watching your videos for a year and learned how to do my optician job better and prepared for the ABO. You are a gem and I really enjoyed the process and have learned sooo much!!!
Thank you.
Thank you, now I got it… 🏃🏻♀️To the lab😊 to practice now.
You got this!
I watch your vids as a layman, more should. Now I understand what I want and why. And more to the point, what I can't have!
I'm just a customer who is in search of the perfect pair of glasses (going on 6 years now) and these videos opened up my understanding and ability to communicate about aspects of optics where I feel my non-RX issue may be. I went to any optical where only after I came back a 3rd time b/c of not being 100% with my new pair they took them back and actually remeasured my PD against the frame PD and marked where my pupils would naturally align within the frame.... Could have saved a couple of trips and time if this was done on my first visit/order. I appreciate all of these video - very informative.
Hey John changing careers and have found the material easy to understand and layered well a good understanding of the concept.
I’m an optician student. The more I’ve studied the material the more interested I’ve become. Could you please tell me conceptually, what is the most important thing to understand? Also, as an optician, what is the most important physical skill to sharpen? I love your channel ... keep em coming!
Daniel M, Whoa - OK - I could go on for hours here... Conceptually most important = lens thickness/cut-out to frame size and shape. Physical skill = the one that will make you stand-out among the crowd. That might be great fit/adjustments, that might be amazing finishing work. I'll keep em coming you keep on watching em. John
Laramy-K Optical Thanks John 👍 that was helpful. sometimes I rely on your videos more than my teachers in the program. I’ll definitely keep watching.
Thank you for the video. But, I have a question. When it is decentered, the subject looks at it from a point outside the geometrical center of the lens. Wouldn't this lead to a prismatic effect?
Thanks for all your help.
I love watching your videos
This is awesome..i am an optometrist and i am. tasked to train opticians every now and then. Although i have a different technique when doing training but this is just great. Thank you.
John, You are welcome. Please be sure to check out the complete offering of videos on our main CZcams channel. John
Thank you!! Love your videos I really enjoy it
I appreciate your videos
Your videos are the best Especially on the prism examples. I’m studying to pas NACOR to be an optician in Canada.
thank you
how do you do decentration if the pd is different in monocular measurement?
If you block like that. Will you set the OC height on the edger machine, sir?
I would have to say, no. I doubt you can manually decenter for PD and then expect the edger to take care of an OC height. I guess it could work but you would have to experiment with the edger. The basics shown in the video assume no OC height = 1/2 the B. And OC heights are for higher powers and should be kept to around 0 - 5mm. If you need much more you have the wrong frame.
Hi I have a doubt, Decentering is all the time in the nose direction? I'm a student I read in a book if the Pd is bigger than A+DBL I have to decenter in base out direction, is it right?? Thanks
Mik m, Yes correct if human PD is larger than the frame PD then you have OUT decentration. This is quite rare. But it does happen, sure. John
Laramy-K Optical thanks so much I love your videos
Mik m fine
That was very helpful ,thank you very much .you are awesome.!
I love it😍
Hey love videos help prepare for ABO and make better work never seen that technology before wish had in my lab
Nice explanation on decentration. I have one question and I am hoping you could answer. What is your standard height for the OC for single vision? Do you always place it on the datum line? Others are placing it 2 mm above the datum line. I am just wondering what is your standard practice if the customer didn't include the pupil height. Thanks.
Literally working on that video this morning. Watch for it in a few weeks.
Thank u! Love super frame
Love the videos!
Thank you for the video. Any chance of doing one with bifocals (flat top and round segment)?
ST covered in that video series. 100% honest - I can't find the process on layout for a round. I have tried and tried and tried... If I ever get a good set of instructions I'll be sure to share.
I have a one question
Why r u blocking blanks in positive site
czcams.com/video/yL_02Cxkmxk/video.html
So with this concept you're saying that if a patient picks a frame where the pupil is closer to the nose bridge, the optician can send it to the lab to have it decentered?
Yarely, Goodness NO! This is done with in stock, single-vision lenses, in-house before edging. Lab de-centering by grinding is only done when cut-out is an issue. John
Thank you for the clarification John
hello i’m trying to figure if there is a formula that i can use that will tell me if the lens will cut out and fit the frame before i edge it down.
MBS minimum blank size and there is a video for it.
Laramy-K Optical thank you, you’re amazing!
How we can take near PD in bifocal lens setting plz tell me
Abdul, In a lined bifocal just subtract 4 from you binocular PD. If distance PD is 64 your near will be 60. John
Hi great video, i have a nidek LE 9000 SX and ice mini. im new to glazing, ive tried to glaze SV specs but Patient PD is always way way off, can you help at all ? im trying the decentration in this video , when i put half PDS in under frame PD the ice blocker moves the centration and that where i block the lens, but PD is always off, do i need to decentre to make the correct adjustments. many thanks if you can help
Oh boy - you poor thing. I can't be 100% sure - but - the edger will have (usually have) two settings. 1) You block the lens on the OC and the edger does the calculations and decentration shift for you. This is usually called PASSIVE MODE. 2) You are doing the physical decentration and blocking and the edger is in PASSIVE MODE. I think that model will show you a little arrow and amount to decenter if you are in the mode where you are doing it? If you are overriding that either way things are going to get messy very quickly. Ask your lab for some junk lenses or better yet buy a box of cheap plano ones - mark/make a clear OC point and experiment. It is confusing as heck but if you stick with it, watch the videos and maybe even draw it out/take notes sooner or later it will click. Let me repeat that - it is confusing as heck so don't feel bad. Let me know if that helps. If you need more drop me an email instead. This may also be a question for the folks on OptiBoard since I'm sure someone over there is still running that machine and blocker too. I suppose if you are only doing basic sv stuff you could always drop the blocker entirely and switch to a manual blocker? John
@@LaramyKOptical hi thanks for your swift reply, I've been through quite a few planos already,
i checked the mini ice its already in passive mode, once i change the half PDS the centration does shift and that's where I align and block , then cut lens and still no joy
my process is ( real job I attempted just today)
trace frame on edger
frame shape is shown on ice mini FPD at top 70mm ( FRAME Ralph Lauren 54-16)
I change the half PDS to RE 31.5 LE 31.5 for both eyes to mirror Patient PD (63mm) not sure if this is correct plz advise)
blank lens is centered and marked on lensmeter
blank lens is placed and aligned with markings on ice blocker (after I changed half PDS of patient )
lens is blocked on ice mini and edged using nidek LE 9000 SX
PD checked again on lensmeter and over 10mm off (72mm )
Ive asked many people in the U.K but everyone uses Essilor
any advice or help would be great
@@iqbalgtr There is no reason at all to split a PD of 63. If you just enter 63 do things turn out OK? With your FPD/PPD a difference of just about 10 and your PD being off by about 10 you are doubling up. Try just blocking on center ignoring the grid suggestions and see what happens? It sounds like a disconnect between the edger and the blocker? To see what those settings are you have to access the service menu. It sounds like you are second guessing what you are actually seeing? Nothing says that the blocker is right (that stuff is getting pretty old now). Again - maybe it is time to let the blocker go? That machine doesn't require one. I'm sure you could track down a used manual blocker (a light source/grid/block applicator) they don't connect with the edger at all. IMO if anything they are much easier to work with not harder.
@@LaramyKOptical Hi maybe I should disconnect the Ice blocker (the one i have is fairly new touch screen etc with camera)
few queries when blocker imports shape from edger( after traced) and gives me FPD do i keep that number same I.e i dont change it ?
2nd underneath FPD it has 1/2 PD , is this where im suppose to put PX PD in ??
3rd if i dont use blocker do i just manually put block on the centre of marked blank from lensmeter , and change PD under FPD on edger itself ?? would that work ?
thanks
@@iqbalgtr I think that is your problem! Assuming the tracer is calibrated I can't see a reason to ever change the FPD which is your FRAME size. Your 1/2 is for your human if you have a monocular patient PD like 32/34 or 33/35. If the blocker is quite new then it is being connected to a machine that is quite old. It may be incompatible it may need the edger settings to be changed to correctly work with each other. It's been 30 years since I worked with that edger now. If you unplugged the blocker and switched to manual you would need to know which mode the edger is in. If it shows an arrow and an amount to move the lens then YOU move the lens and block it off the OC. If it doesn't then you block it on the OC and the edger takes over. You might want to nose around the internet and try to find a complete manual for both the edger and the blocker? I'm guessing a service call to NIDEK isn't possible?