This video shows you how to build a typical entry-level HPR kit and prepare it for your certification flight. See jcrocket.com/certify-level-1.s... for details.
August 2006 I certified NAR L1 with a LOC IV. 29mm motor tube at the time. I went on to L2 n L3 over next couple of years. Did a lof of upscaling of various kits plus a lot of scratch building. Rocketry is so much fun...I started in 1975 👍
I have been a carpenter for 40 years. I have trained many finish carpenters. You have excellent skills and are very articulate in your instruction. Bravo! Love your video.
I've been into HPR since 1991 and while I have built things as small as the Loc IV here to 14' tall 10" dia from sono tubes......I found your video so well made and thorough that I sat back and watched the entire video. Very well done and an EXCELLENT video even for some of the seasoned builders to enjoy. Thanks for the great video, John! Brian - TRA2578
I am finally getting into HPR! After decades and countless Estes and scratch built kits it is time. I picked up a magazine in 1994 about this from a local hobby shop and have been intrigued by it. The cameras and electronics available nowadays will make this too much fun. Gotta start with Level 1 and will get a kit like this a.s.a.p. Hope to see you at a launch in day.
He makes it look so easy spreading the epoxy. For some reason when I use epoxy, it ends up everywhere, all over my gloves, my workbench, the ceiling, the cat. It’s a mess . Two thumbs though
Applying epoxy can be challenging but I believe you can do it. Try using a brand that is not so runny. I like BSI epoxy. Try applying less rather than more. Best wishes.
This is my favorite rocketry video. Anytime I go about building a mid or high power rocket I watch it. Your methodology is something that anyone with rocket building experience can follow. The only thing I do different is that I do not use CA to keep the CRs and fins in place. I apply epoxy where the CR will go and slide it in place. I apply epoxy on the fin and install it. Even when I'm not building a rocket this is a fun video to watch.
This video is the ultimate guide. I used it as a guideline when building my Madcow Torrent two years ago. I am using it to build a Loc Lil Dither. I watch it when building various mid to high power kits.
Hi John, Great video. I only fly LPR, and I stumbled across your videos for fiberglass work. I am addicted to RC airplanes, fly constantly and attend as many events/conventions as I can. Many of your techniques are so well explained they work great for crossover into other areas of scale aviation and fabrication. I also have to say, usually I'm not as much of a fan of longer videos that draw out the step by step stuff. But the way you deliver the message and it's level of detail is great and I watch them multiple times. I am looking forward to seeing more!
Great video! A well organized, thorough and sequential tutorial for building the LOC IV. I am following it to a "T" in building my LOC IV for my Level 1 Certification attempt.I am picking up on the fact that folding and packing the shock cord and parachute is much different than in MPR. Would love to see you do a video on this topic some day.
Well thought out and explained, it’s been a long time sense I have built and flown my rockets and this video takes me back. I’m in the northeast and I found the very best time and place was in the winter out on the frozen lake. I remember an old timer who was driving his truck on the ice pulling up while my son and I were setting up, leaned out the window and asked. What kind of tip ups are they? Lol. Well done.
This video is fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to make it. I am going to watch it as I build my LOC Hi Tech H45 that I just ordered for my Level 1 certification.
The aft centering ring crumble like a cookie on my hi tech. Let me also mention that it landed on concrete. I just put new ones in . I hope they hold up this time
Nice vid. I certified Level 1 on a Loc IV way back when...the motor was a Vulcan Smoky Sam H100. The only complaint I ever had with this kit is the shock cord /bridle as you pointed out, and since the fins hang below the body tube some reinforcement of the fin root joint helps prevent fin cracking.
Awesome video! I always enjoy L1 builds, thank you that was fun to watch! I was paranoid with mine and used more centering rings. I really want to build the fin can outside of the tube and slide the airframe down over it soon for a build to try a different technique.
@@UnknownSend3r Start with kits in the mid-power range and build up to larger rockets over time. The Rocketry Forum is a great place to join as well: www.rocketryforum.com/
Very nice and clear video and explanations. Honestly a master class in instructional videos as well as great substantive guidance on build techniques. Thank you very much.
I wish I could give a second thumbs up. Ive watched this video like 5 times and I still haven't started working on my LOC IV. But I made a nice stand like yours to hold the rocket horizontally.
10 years is a long time but this really helped me. Thank you John. If I can add any advice I would strongly suggest you find a local club and join. I just joined the rocket club here in Oregon and they have been super helpful and really inspiring. I can't wait to get my first rocket into the air.
Awesome video, John! very informative. you might have mentioned it - what kind of epoxy do you recommend for structural fins? also, what other good level 1 kits would you recommend (similar difficulty, price range ...) as LOC IV? thanks for video.
+Alex Tran I prefer AeroPoxy products, but it's not critical. jcrocket.com/adhesives.shtml Aside from Loc/Precision, Public Missiles and Binder Designs make a nice range of kits at reasonable prices. In fact, I'm working on a Binder Galaxy now as fun build. jcrocket.com/galaxy.shtml
I just got my LOC IV and it's a little bit different than this one. It has a payload compartment and the motor tube is shorter. It includes three centering rings too. I think I understand all the differences. I still want to do the trick of not gluing the third ring on at first so I can do some internal fin fillets. That would make it much stronger.
I always like to attach the parachute shroud lines as close to the nose cone as possible. A weak ejection charge may only blow the nose cone without the rest of the 'laundry' following suit. If the cone deploys with the chute attached close by (instead of a fraction of the 'shock cord' away from the cone...buried inside the airframe) you stand a better chance of parachute deployment. Just my 2 cents.
High Power Rocket??? These building techniques apply to all size model rockets... Video is great, details are clear, excellent timing, perfect editing...
just wanted to say thanks. this video was very helpful to me. I ended up going with an Apogee Zephyr. I really liked the nose cone better, it was less expensive, and came with more of the things I needed. Rocket will be here in a few days and hoping to LVL 1 certify this summer. Have built several rockets now and I feel comfortable with the build. Thanks
I buy from either a local Ace Hardware or McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com/), mostly the latter. To better withstand the corrosiveness of black powder ejection charges, I prefer stainless steel hardware.
Very informative, thank you. I'm in the process of making a rocket in this size, well, maybe just a hair smaller, running on something like g or h impulse. Homemade motor.... So I'm going all the way homemade, at least that's the plan. Thanks again
Wow, I've done Estes models before, and made a few (with mixed success) rockets, but I didn't realize there where proper High Power rockets that assemble like an oversized Estes kit. This Loc's like an Alpha III on steroids. Suprisingly affordable airframe too. Hate to think of what the motors run though....
I just bought this kit and it now comes with 2 main body tubes and a coupler but no bulk head so im thinking of just making it no payload loc instruction are not very good on this kit anyway thanks for the video
John, do you have a link to the type of Nylon Strap you use in lieu of the Elastic Shock cord? I see many options on Amazon, etc, but I'm looking for the specific type you're using here. Thanks much! - Jesse
Found it on your site, thanks man! I appreciate your work on this video. I wish I had watched it before hand! Either way, I was able to certify. czcams.com/video/LtfkIFJs_sQ/video.html
Hi John, I noticed that every launch, the inside of my rocket is build up with a layer of soot. Do you clean the inside of the rocket? pro/con of cleaning versus not cleaning?
I do. I wipe the inside with a baby wipe or two to get most of the BP residue off. But take care with cardboard tubes not to get them wet, so let the baby wipe mostly dry out if too wet out of the package.
+Jeff Marler I believe that's a Robart "Super Stand". They make various stands like this for working on R/C planes. www.amazon.com/Ernst-Manufacturing-Ultra-Airplane-Novelty/dp/B011IP3RXM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1445921028&sr=8-5&keywords=rc+airplane+stand
I ordered a LOC IRIS 3.1 and the directions include the option of cutting the slots to the end of the body tube, attaching the fins to the motor mount and then sliding it into the body tube . What is your opinion on this method?
I would never tell anyone to ignore the manufacturer's instructions. :) Think of these videos as tips for building in general when there aren't sufficient directions. (Many kits come with minimal or even no instructions.) As you get more experienced, you'll develop your own ways of doing things, but it's always best to start with manufacturer's recommendations.
My advice on a level one , use plenty of gunpowder and use a lighter rocket. Just incase your parachute doesn't open , the higher altitude will allow more time for it to open. Good luck.
when doing fillets, lay the epoxy in and use a heat gun to heat the epoxy a little and it will flow out smooth and penetrate the material that you are bonding the joint needs to be horizontal. keep heat gun a ways from epoxy, good vid thanx
Is it common that the centering rings need sanding to fit into the tube? My LOC-IV centering rings didn't fit into the tube. I'm currently trying to figure out how to evenly sand something round like a centering ring.
No, they should fit, although a tight fit is OK. To sand down the OD, you just have to work your way around. One technique is to draw a line in pencil along the center of the edge, sand that off all around, and repeat if necessary.
Just watching this after all these years, and am I crazy or did the aft lug mount hole not get drilled in the wrong place? I don't think it will matter since it was more forward and wouldn't interfere, but it seems like the hole was drilled where the edge mark was instead of the center mark for the bolt. This is a great guide, and I look forward to hopefully building my first L1 rocket soon. Thanks!
@@JohnLCoker Maybe so. 16:00 is when I'm talking about. I assume it had no issue, but I'm a very visual person so things like this jump out at me like they had a flashing sign pointing at them. As a kid I built quite a few, but back then it was just let's cram the biggest engine that will fit and send it off to never be found again. Looking to do some at a local place that has the area to recover in. Thanks again!
I've been getting mixed signals on when & where to measure CG. You marked CG *without* the motor, and others have told me to always measure & mark CG *with* the motor installed (at least for the purposes of determining stability caliber). Can you elaborate?
I never mark the CG (center of GRAVITY), only the CP (center of PRESSURE). The CG changes with each motor and can easily be measured at the RSO table by balancing the rocket with the motor installed.
I wasn't 100% sure from the video, but did you skip epoxy on the root edge of the fins altogether and just went with interior fillets on the motor mount?
I got the same impression from all your other videos, that you never but epoxy in between but only secure with fillets. But I take your last answer as that you recommend to epoxy between the materials as well.
I didn't see any epoxy applied directly on the engine tube to bond the forward centering ring-- only an epoxy fillet. Is that because you pushed it in during the fillet process?
The fillets are the bond. If the rings are a proper fit, there isn't space between them and the tube. I often tack the rings in place with CyA (Super Glue) to keep everything in alignment while applying the epoxy and while it cures.
To be totally obsessive, dry fit the eye bolt, mark the threads that extend past the nut, remove the eye bolt and thread the nut all the way down and cut off the excess bolt. Back the nut off to chase the threads. The part of the the bolt that extends past the nut is useless weight. Yeah, it's a purist obsessive thing and not necessary... To prevent getting epoxy in the nose cone bearing area of the body tube, put a scrap coupler in before reaching down in the tube with dowels or fingers of epoxy.
I use small blocks of wood epoxied inside the airframe with T-nuts in the center. (If you look carefully, you can see the block from the view into the aft end.) This is perhaps overkill for a light rocket like this one, but good practice for heavier projects.
John awesome I launched a kid, then with daughter, now 3 grandkids. They love it. Art, Exercise, STEM, Ok I have a blast too. They want me to go HP Cert 1. I have the skills but I think to Cert go with a winning design.
That's actually a stand for model airplanes: www.amazon.com/Ernst-Manufacturing-Ultra-Stand-Airplanes/dp/B011IP3RXM/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=hobart+model+airplane+stand&qid=1633412445&sr=8-19
These stands are made for RC airplanes. I probably bought mine at a local hobby shop (when they still existed), but they're also available on Amazon if you search for "rc airplane stand".
That looks like ¼-20. Note that it's not a welded eye, which is fine on a light rocket like this one, but for heavier rockets I recommend welded eyebolts. It's hard to find welded or forged eyebolts smaller than this, although McMaster-Carr has some: www.mcmaster.com/#eyebolts/=19e937u
i live in brazil and here they dont there isnt anyone that certify to level 1 so what i can to to buy hight power motors i am almolst finishing mine but i cant buy the engine ? whats the strongest engine that i can buy withaut certification ? thnks for your tips
Motors with impulse class "H" and above require a level 1 cert. There are still lots of "F" motors to choose from, although I'm not sure which ones can be purchased mail-order. www.thrustcurve.org/browser.jsp?1class=F
This was one of the videos I watched when I first started getting back into rocketry 3+ years ago. But seeing John's full workshop was a bit intimidating and I was worried that I needed to duplicate in order to get into HPR. How wrong that impression was!
Most of the construction is done with epoxy. I use CyA only for tacking parts together. For more info on epoxy, see this video: czcams.com/video/1Oq6koK7wcw/video.html
I don't see why you'd put an eye hook off center like that... that puts the center of gravity off to the side a bit considering its a metal hook in a cardboard body..
The eye bolt is off-center because the center has the motor mount tube. However, I don't think the slight asymmetry will cause any problems. If this is of concern, you can offset the eye bolt opposite to the side with the rail guides.
@@antonvannesjo1137 The tape will break as the bridle is pulled out. (Note that I used only a single wrap.) This also absorbs some of the force, which means less jerk at the end of the bridle.
I built a LOC IV using your tutorial and it worked out great. Put a Mobius Mini camera on it as well. Video here: czcams.com/video/hQFtgqnCrVA/video.html
It is good to learn techniques about how to do various tasks by getting ideas from various sources. John Coker's videos deal with high power rocketry which is more involved than model rocketry. One can build/fly rockets and still play basketball.
August 2006 I certified NAR L1 with a LOC IV. 29mm motor tube at the time. I went on to L2 n L3 over next couple of years. Did a lof of upscaling of various kits plus a lot of scratch building. Rocketry is so much fun...I started in 1975 👍
I have been a carpenter for 40 years. I have trained many finish carpenters. You have excellent skills and are very articulate in your instruction. Bravo! Love your video.
Excellent! All "how to" video makers should be required to watch this video to learn how it should be produced correctly. Well done sir!
I've been into HPR since 1991 and while I have built things as small as the Loc IV here to 14' tall 10" dia from sono tubes......I found your video so well made and thorough that I sat back and watched the entire video. Very well done and an EXCELLENT video even for some of the seasoned builders to enjoy.
Thanks for the great video, John!
Brian - TRA2578
I am finally getting into HPR! After decades and countless Estes and scratch built kits it is time. I picked up a magazine in 1994 about this from a local hobby shop and have been intrigued by it. The cameras and electronics available nowadays will make this too much fun. Gotta start with Level 1 and will get a kit like this a.s.a.p. Hope to see you at a launch in day.
13:14
I was like "Use a door frame dude!"
Yep -1970's Estes alumni here
My uncle taught me that trick many years ago. I'm so glad he did. Now, I use that trick every time I build a rocket.
@@hitechfl me to
He makes it look so easy spreading the epoxy. For some reason when I use epoxy, it ends up everywhere, all over my gloves, my workbench, the ceiling, the cat. It’s a mess . Two thumbs though
Applying epoxy can be challenging but I believe you can do it. Try using a brand that is not so runny. I like BSI epoxy. Try applying less rather than more. Best wishes.
This is my favorite rocketry video. Anytime I go about building a mid or high power rocket I watch it. Your methodology is something that anyone with rocket building experience can follow. The only thing I do different is that I do not use CA to keep the CRs and fins in place. I apply epoxy where the CR will go and slide it in place. I apply epoxy on the fin and install it. Even when I'm not building a rocket this is a fun video to watch.
Thinking about getting into rocketry It's been about 30 years glad I found your channel very informative and to the point thank you very much
This video is the ultimate guide. I used it as a guideline when building my Madcow Torrent two years ago. I am using it to build a Loc
Lil Dither. I watch it when building various mid to high power kits.
Hi John, Great video. I only fly LPR, and I stumbled across your videos for fiberglass work. I am addicted to RC airplanes, fly constantly and attend as many events/conventions as I can. Many of your techniques are so well explained they work great for crossover into other areas of scale aviation and fabrication.
I also have to say, usually I'm not as much of a fan of longer videos that draw out the step by step stuff. But the way you deliver the message and it's level of detail is great and I watch them multiple times. I am looking forward to seeing more!
High power is so much fun! Did you go further!?
Great video! A well organized, thorough and sequential tutorial for building the LOC IV. I am following it to a "T" in building my LOC IV for my Level 1 Certification attempt.I am picking up on the fact that folding and packing the shock cord and parachute is much different than in MPR. Would love to see you do a video on this topic some day.
Thank you for a comprehensive video like this. I am beginning my first level 1 so a video like this is very helpful!
A masterpiece. John Coker, thanks for sharing your skills!
Well thought out and explained, it’s been a long time sense I have built and flown my rockets and this video takes me back. I’m in the northeast and I found the very best time and place was in the winter out on the frozen lake. I remember an old timer who was driving his truck on the ice pulling up while my son and I were setting up, leaned out the window and asked. What kind of tip ups are they? Lol. Well done.
This video is fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to make it. I am going to watch it as I build my LOC Hi Tech H45 that I just ordered for my Level 1 certification.
The aft centering ring crumble like a cookie on my hi tech. Let me also mention that it landed on concrete. I just put new ones in . I hope they hold up this time
Nice vid. I certified Level 1 on a Loc IV way back when...the motor was a Vulcan Smoky Sam H100. The only complaint I ever had with this kit is the shock cord /bridle as you pointed out, and since the fins hang below the body tube some reinforcement of the fin root joint helps prevent fin cracking.
Awesome video! I always enjoy L1 builds, thank you that was fun to watch! I was paranoid with mine and used more centering rings. I really want to build the fin can outside of the tube and slide the airframe down over it soon for a build to try a different technique.
Bravo! Good video with accurate information and not a lot of extra taking. Well done!
Great Video! Very thorough and meticulous assembly!
Please note that LOC has updated the kit and new versions reportedly have the elastic replaced, a shorter MMT and are set up for dual deployment.
Hi John, I'm a complete layman in rocketry and would like to get started, how would you recommend a beginner with intent to learn in-depth to start ?
@@UnknownSend3r Start with kits in the mid-power range and build up to larger rockets over time. The Rocketry Forum is a great place to join as well: www.rocketryforum.com/
@@JohnLCoker thank you.
Very nice and clear video and explanations. Honestly a master class in instructional videos as well as great substantive guidance on build techniques. Thank you very much.
Excellent video! Great instruction and modifications!! Thank you.
A great introduction to a scratch build as well! Just construction based on experience! Thanks!
John -- thanks for your videos, this one in particular.
I wish I could give a second thumbs up. Ive watched this video like 5 times and I still haven't started working on my LOC IV. But I made a nice stand like yours to hold the rocket horizontally.
10 years is a long time but this really helped me. Thank you John. If I can add any advice I would strongly suggest you find a local club and join. I just joined the rocket club here in Oregon and they have been super helpful and really inspiring. I can't wait to get my first rocket into the air.
Thanks John! Great video!
Great video. I just got back into rocketry after being away for 10 years.
Awesome video, John! very informative. you might have mentioned it - what kind of epoxy do you recommend for structural fins? also, what other good level 1 kits would you recommend (similar difficulty, price range ...) as LOC IV? thanks for video.
+Alex Tran I prefer AeroPoxy products, but it's not critical.
jcrocket.com/adhesives.shtml
Aside from Loc/Precision, Public Missiles and Binder Designs make a nice range of kits at reasonable prices. In fact, I'm working on a Binder Galaxy now as fun build.
jcrocket.com/galaxy.shtml
I just got my LOC IV and it's a little bit different than this one. It has a payload compartment and the motor tube is shorter. It includes three centering rings too. I think I understand all the differences. I still want to do the trick of not gluing the third ring on at first so I can do some internal fin fillets. That would make it much stronger.
I always like to attach the parachute shroud lines as close to the nose cone as possible. A weak ejection charge may only blow the nose cone without the rest of the 'laundry' following suit. If the cone deploys with the chute attached close by (instead of a fraction of the 'shock cord' away from the cone...buried inside the airframe) you stand a better chance of parachute deployment. Just my 2 cents.
great videos,john!
High Power Rocket??? These building techniques apply to all size model rockets... Video is great, details are clear, excellent timing, perfect editing...
Wow I just ordered the loc IV from the apogee website this is incredible
just wanted to say thanks. this video was very helpful to me. I ended up going with an Apogee Zephyr. I really liked the nose cone better, it was less expensive, and came with more of the things I needed. Rocket will be here in a few days and hoping to LVL 1 certify this summer. Have built several rockets now and I feel comfortable with the build. Thanks
Hi John, where do you buy the eye bolt and quick link? any recommendations on size or force that can withstand the ejection charge?
I buy from either a local Ace Hardware or McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com/), mostly the latter.
To better withstand the corrosiveness of black powder ejection charges, I prefer stainless steel hardware.
Very informative, thank you. I'm in the process of making a rocket in this size, well, maybe just a hair smaller, running on something like g or h impulse. Homemade motor.... So I'm going all the way homemade, at least that's the plan. Thanks again
The eyebolt is heavier than the rocket. Very informative vid. Thanks
Wow, I've done Estes models before, and made a few (with mixed success) rockets, but I didn't realize there where proper High Power rockets that assemble like an oversized Estes kit. This Loc's like an Alpha III on steroids. Suprisingly affordable airframe too. Hate to think of what the motors run though....
Great vid, thanks. I'd love to get back into rocketry.
I know this is an older video, but how do you compensate for the change in center of gravity with your new hardware (eyebolt and quick links)?
I always ensure stability by directly measuring the CG and using a simulator to calculate the CP. In most cases, no additional nose weight is needed.
Excellent video. How do I obtain the apparatus you're using to hold the the rocket?
That's an airplane stand, which can be found at R/C aircraft hobby shops or from towerhobbies.com.
Thank you, for taking the time to respond.
great instruction method with deep details.
thanks sir.
I just bought this kit and it now comes with 2 main body tubes and a coupler but no bulk head so im thinking of just making it no payload loc instruction are not very good on this kit anyway thanks for the video
how much were all of the accessories all. my wife and I are getting a couple of LOC IV kits for our level 1 cert.
+stephen stanford Rail buttons and other hardware are very little; the only expensive part is the retainer (about $25).
3:07 "Elastic belongs in underwear, not rockets" lol
I Always remember that. It's true. :)
Excelent video
Well explained and perfect edition
Where did you purchase your nylon webbing for the shock cord
Larger tubular Nylon can be found at Any Mountain stores, and I buy flat strap from Strapworks www.strapworks.com/Flat_Nylon_s/61.htm
John, do you have a link to the type of Nylon Strap you use in lieu of the Elastic Shock cord? I see many options on Amazon, etc, but I'm looking for the specific type you're using here. Thanks much! - Jesse
Found it on your site, thanks man! I appreciate your work on this video. I wish I had watched it before hand! Either way, I was able to certify. czcams.com/video/LtfkIFJs_sQ/video.html
Large Nylon straps can be purchased from Any Mountain and I've bought smaller straps from Strapworks, www.strapworks.com/Flat_Nylon_s/61.htm
Hi John, I noticed that every launch, the inside of my rocket is build up with a layer of soot. Do you clean the inside of the rocket? pro/con of cleaning versus not cleaning?
I do. I wipe the inside with a baby wipe or two to get most of the BP residue off. But take care with cardboard tubes not to get them wet, so let the baby wipe mostly dry out if too wet out of the package.
John Coker thanks for tips. Will try this
Where did you get that padded stand you were resting your rocket on while you were working on it? I need one of those.
+Jeff Marler I believe that's a Robart "Super Stand". They make various stands like this for working on R/C planes.
www.amazon.com/Ernst-Manufacturing-Ultra-Airplane-Novelty/dp/B011IP3RXM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1445921028&sr=8-5&keywords=rc+airplane+stand
Perfect! That was it. Just ordered one. Thanks!
Hoping Mr Coker is doing well, flying rockets and planning MORE VIDEOS !!!
Hi John very nice video on the LocIV could you please tell me where you can order it from as i didn't catch it on the video.
Loc/Precision is the company: locprecision.com/
I ordered a LOC IRIS 3.1 and the directions include the option of cutting the slots to the end of the body tube, attaching the fins to the motor mount and then sliding it into the body tube . What is your opinion on this method?
I would never tell anyone to ignore the manufacturer's instructions. :) Think of these videos as tips for building in general when there aren't sufficient directions. (Many kits come with minimal or even no instructions.) As you get more experienced, you'll develop your own ways of doing things, but it's always best to start with manufacturer's recommendations.
My advice on a level one , use plenty of gunpowder and use a lighter rocket. Just incase your parachute doesn't open , the higher altitude will allow more time for it to open. Good luck.
good video John
when doing fillets, lay the epoxy in and use a heat gun to heat the epoxy a little and it will flow out smooth and penetrate the material that you are bonding the joint needs to be horizontal. keep heat gun a ways from epoxy, good vid thanx
Is it common that the centering rings need sanding to fit into the tube? My LOC-IV centering rings didn't fit into the tube. I'm currently trying to figure out how to evenly sand something round like a centering ring.
No, they should fit, although a tight fit is OK. To sand down the OD, you just have to work your way around. One technique is to draw a line in pencil along the center of the edge, sand that off all around, and repeat if necessary.
Mine needed just a very light sanding to fit
Just watching this after all these years, and am I crazy or did the aft lug mount hole not get drilled in the wrong place? I don't think it will matter since it was more forward and wouldn't interfere, but it seems like the hole was drilled where the edge mark was instead of the center mark for the bolt. This is a great guide, and I look forward to hopefully building my first L1 rocket soon. Thanks!
LOL, I can't recall. (It could also be parallax from the camera angle.) Good luck with your L1!
@@JohnLCoker Maybe so. 16:00 is when I'm talking about. I assume it had no issue, but I'm a very visual person so things like this jump out at me like they had a flashing sign pointing at them. As a kid I built quite a few, but back then it was just let's cram the biggest engine that will fit and send it off to never be found again. Looking to do some at a local place that has the area to recover in. Thanks again!
I've been getting mixed signals on when & where to measure CG. You marked CG *without* the motor, and others have told me to always measure & mark CG *with* the motor installed (at least for the purposes of determining stability caliber).
Can you elaborate?
I never mark the CG (center of GRAVITY), only the CP (center of PRESSURE). The CG changes with each motor and can easily be measured at the RSO table by balancing the rocket with the motor installed.
Ooops! My mistake - of course that makes sense. Thanks!
I wasn't 100% sure from the video, but did you skip epoxy on the root edge of the fins altogether and just went with interior fillets on the motor mount?
I always put a small bead of epoxy along the root edge of the fins when mounting them. Then I go back and do the larger fillets.
John Coker ok. It was a bit hard to see in the video. It looked like you only tacked the fins in place using CA.
I got the same impression from all your other videos, that you never but epoxy in between but only secure with fillets. But I take your last answer as that you recommend to epoxy between the materials as well.
I didn't see any epoxy applied directly on the engine tube to bond the forward centering ring-- only an epoxy fillet. Is that because you pushed it in during the fillet process?
The fillets are the bond. If the rings are a proper fit, there isn't space between them and the tube. I often tack the rings in place with CyA (Super Glue) to keep everything in alignment while applying the epoxy and while it cures.
To be totally obsessive, dry fit the eye bolt, mark the threads that extend past the nut, remove the eye bolt and thread the nut all the way down and cut off the excess bolt. Back the nut off to chase the threads. The part of the the bolt that extends past the nut is useless weight. Yeah, it's a purist obsessive thing and not necessary... To prevent getting epoxy in the nose cone bearing area of the body tube, put a scrap coupler in before reaching down in the tube with dowels or fingers of epoxy.
What kind of epoxy did you use for your fin fillets?
I generally use Aeropoxy ES6209 for bonding. For cosmetics I like Super Fill.
How did you mount the front and rear rail buttons?
I use small blocks of wood epoxied inside the airframe with T-nuts in the center. (If you look carefully, you can see the block from the view into the aft end.) This is perhaps overkill for a light rocket like this one, but good practice for heavier projects.
+John Coker would you have to do this for a 2mm thick carbon fiber tube as well?
Yes I would. There can be a lot of force on the rail buttons and I wouldn't rely on just screw threads into the tube.
John awesome I launched a kid, then with daughter, now 3 grandkids. They love it. Art, Exercise, STEM, Ok I have a blast too. They want me to go HP Cert 1. I have the skills but I think to Cert go with a winning design.
Congratulations and best of luck!
What is the name of that blue and yellow plastic rocket holder?
That's actually a stand for model airplanes: www.amazon.com/Ernst-Manufacturing-Ultra-Stand-Airplanes/dp/B011IP3RXM/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=hobart+model+airplane+stand&qid=1633412445&sr=8-19
is there any site there i can buy withaut certification ? i am brazilian here there arent groups to certificate
You should be able to buy model rocket motors over the mail. As far as level 1 and higher, I'm guessing no.
Excelente
Where did you get your rocket cradle? Did you make it yourself?
These stands are made for RC airplanes. I probably bought mine at a local hobby shop (when they still existed), but they're also available on Amazon if you search for "rc airplane stand".
@@JohnLCoker thanks I'm going to make my own and save $35!
What's the size of that eyebolt?
That looks like ¼-20. Note that it's not a welded eye, which is fine on a light rocket like this one, but for heavier rockets I recommend welded eyebolts. It's hard to find welded or forged eyebolts smaller than this, although McMaster-Carr has some: www.mcmaster.com/#eyebolts/=19e937u
I never tacked centering rings...I wanted the epoxy between the tube and ring as well as the fillets. Great video overall though.
how do you paint it it is directly to the cardboard tube or i need to pass a layer of fiberglass first ?
You can paint the cardboard without fiberglassing it. See my Simple Painting video: czcams.com/video/KZ2iy-oyhjs/video.html
@@JohnLCoker thnks man
@@JohnLCoker and where i can get this big cardboard tubes
@@b.h9186 This is a kit from Loc/Precision, but there are many options for rocket kits.
@@JohnLCoker did you glassed this one ?
i live in brazil and here they dont there isnt anyone that certify to level 1 so what i can to to buy hight power motors i am almolst finishing mine but i cant buy the engine ? whats the strongest engine that i can buy withaut certification ? thnks for your tips
Motors with impulse class "H" and above require a level 1 cert. There are still lots of "F" motors to choose from, although I'm not sure which ones can be purchased mail-order. www.thrustcurve.org/browser.jsp?1class=F
There should be a way to set up a new local club and have someone nearby come in and mentor new certifications.
nice video
This was one of the videos I watched when I first started getting back into rocketry 3+ years ago. But seeing John's full workshop was a bit intimidating and I was worried that I needed to duplicate in order to get into HPR. How wrong that impression was!
where i can buy the materials for the rocket
That rocket is a kit sold by Loc/Precision: locprecision.com/product/loc-iv/
what is that CA glue you're using?
Most of the construction is done with epoxy. I use CyA only for tacking parts together.
For more info on epoxy, see this video: czcams.com/video/1Oq6koK7wcw/video.html
It's probably a generic brand of "Crazy Glue"
it will be launched at a crowdless nrl match and it will take arieal shots of the match behind closed doors
i would suggest just peeling the motor tube instead of sanding it. Also this vid is way better then apogee's vid.
54mm motor tube for level 1 cert.??????
You could use a 54mm MMT if you like, but I used the stock 38mm tube. See shop.locprecision.com/product.sc?productId=121 for the LOC-IV product page.
I don't see why you'd put an eye hook off center like that... that puts the center of gravity off to the side a bit considering its a metal hook in a cardboard body..
The eye bolt is off-center because the center has the motor mount tube. However, I don't think the slight asymmetry will cause any problems. If this is of concern, you can offset the eye bolt opposite to the side with the rail guides.
How about like a 550 para cord 3 lengths braded for a bridle
I haven't tried rope, but it will probably work. I prefer to use flat strap because I like to Z-fold it and tape it together to avoid tangling.
@@JohnLCoker how do you make sure they unfold if you tape them?
@@antonvannesjo1137 The tape will break as the bridle is pulled out. (Note that I used only a single wrap.) This also absorbs some of the force, which means less jerk at the end of the bridle.
@@JohnLCoker great, will give it a try!
Please tell me this equipment name in my comment
Most of the parts came from a LOC/Precision kit, the Loc IV: locprecision.com/products/loc-iv
What size was the chute?
I kept the 'chute that came with the kit, IIRC.
Before I google it I’m going guess its a 36” or maybe 28”
@@user-bx3ot5ky1f I have one of the more recent versions of this kit and mine came with a pink LOC 36" chute. They are really nice chutes.
Don’t measure if you can mark it. Marking is much more accurate.
I built a LOC IV using your tutorial and it worked out great. Put a Mobius Mini camera on it as well. Video here: czcams.com/video/hQFtgqnCrVA/video.html
I had a kid tell me he was going to fly an Estes rocket on a x motor😂
i thought my screen lagged at @26:03
Ridiculously expensive kit for what you get with it.
eerre
empty stadium is not an excuse to fly
Okay well how tf does it fly all these videos are showing people slapping cardboard together and showing it blasting off what the fuck
You build a rocket, go to a place where you can fly, buy a motor and launch it.
No respect for keeping the weight down
if someone needs a video to help them build a model rocket ... they shouldn't be playing with rockets. GO play basketball
It is good to learn techniques about how to do various tasks by getting ideas from various sources. John Coker's videos deal with high power rocketry which is more involved than model rocketry. One can build/fly rockets and still play basketball.