Join me in replacement of the FORD Ranger 4 cylinder 2.5 engine water jacket housing and thermostat. This video also is a good source for burping and bleeding procedure.
The easiest way to fill and bleed in my experience. Fill radiator full via cap. I use no spill funnel and keep a good amount in the funnel. I installed one of those flushing tees in the heater hose line, so then I just unscrew the cap and pull the tee and hose up as high as it will go and pour coolant in there until full. Start it up and let it idle until thermostat opens. Let the tstat open and close about 3 times (I monitor temps using forscan so it's easier to detect thermostat actuation). Put plunger into no spill funnel and dump rest in to reservoir and fill more after a cooldown.
I found another easy way and that is to use a hand held vacuum pump and draw a vacuum from modified cap. Keeping overflow reservoir full until it quits drawing. My Ram truck uses 4 gallons and never gets hot enough in driveway to open the t-stat.
I changed my thermostat also and i think it makes sense now why my gauge doesnt even go up, i knew it had to go in a certain way but it must of moved on me while putting it back together.Thanks for your video. Hopefully i can put it in how you did and have my gauge working again.
Bleeding the air from the heater core and lines fixes the gauge. Thermostat positioning is important but not the fix. Bleeding all air from system is the fix...
I like the SS wire idea. Just did one of these yesterday and I managed to get the TS to lodge in the neck enough to get it installed, but it took some messing to get it.
I'd like to know how in sam hill you got the left side bolt started, you know, the one we don't see you do. Starting the right side is easy. I did that. Now trying to even find the hole for the left side is taking me hours.
Great Video, thank you. Visualized where bolts were located on the new thermostat housing & blindingly found the head of screw based on the new housing followed guidelines. So excited to get done. I'm not sure I put the thermostat with the burp hole you refer to at 12 O'Clock? Do I have to take it all apart again? 00 Mazda B2500 2.5L is there an easier way to burp coolant line, than removing those hoses while running the engine? Have a hard time with those hose clips?
First thanks for commenting.... And no need to mess with alignment of T-stat hole at 12'Oclock. Bleeding is a must with these engines. You can position vehicle on a hill or extreme jacking of vehicle so that the removed radiator fill is higher than that of the engine. Run engine to temperature with cap off. I've never been lucky enough to have this technique work but I read some do.
i just looked at the pic on autozone for that duralast thermostat. it looks like crap. i'm going to order a stant. and, wow. that's interesting how to hold that thermostat into place with wire.
Thanks for the tips...All hoses are hot, but my gauge still wont come up to normal...give it gas, and it blows nice and hot...gauge moves up a bit...at idle, it drops and cooler (warm air) comes out...I bled the system and I would assume all the air is out?..Any other tips?..thanks
installed a 195 thermo...only heater hoses running to thermo and water pump underneath...I do have a very small hose coming from the Heater control valve that runs to the top on the manifold (intake side)..I pulled every hose at least 3 times...went thru at least 2.5 gallons of coolant making sure there was no air...truck runs great...Im thinking defective thermo...pulling it out next week to test it..thanks for the reply..
Might want to check to make sure the little hoses to and from the manifold are not blocked with crud. Mine were completely blocked. Cleaning seemed to make a difference in bleeding time and gauge operation and with cold weather warm up and starting. Good luck
Having the same problem temp gauge not coming up exchanged the t-stat burped the system and still not getting up to temp will see if I can find that small hose and check it also is it easy to find I have a 96 ranger
Good video- I need to do my thermo and the info. you provided was very helpful. The bolts on mine have not been off in 20 years..do you imagine I will have trouble getting them off without breaking them? Did u use thread sealer to the bolts on installation? Thanks.
David h most likely the bolts will come out fine. No thread sealer required. My video is incorrect. T-stat has build in sticker feature to keep it in place during installation.
I replaced thermostat in our 98 Ranger 2.5. I'm getting the temp gauge to register properly BUT the cab temp coming out of the vents is not very warm. What now?
why are you changing the stat? Its nice that you showed us half of the procedures, but you never told us why you did it, something failed, no heat, overheating, or what?
Two reasons. First the housing was leaking. Secondly the previous thermostat was sticking causing rise of temp almost to red followed by total loss of coolant temperature indication from air and delayed ECM open loop. Hope this helps.
I assume that means it can clog up the Radiator, or worse, eventually. Might be why my thermostat stuck shut. Live and learn. Thank you. I, also, purchased the Stant, yesterday. It was MADE IN MEXICO. I hope Mr. and Mrs. Stant are happier and wealthier, now.
Housing has a built in o-ring. No gasket is used. Google Ford 2.5 Lima. Undoubtedly same in 1999 as my sons 98. These great little engines were build by Ford in Lima, Ohio.
How many times do you usually have to take the line off the heater control valve? I tried doing mine and one line from the motor almost instantly sprayed water. The one closest to fender I did 3-4 times till it got to hot and the water was barley coming out.
The easiest way to fill and bleed in my experience. Fill radiator full via cap. I use no spill funnel and keep a good amount in the funnel. I installed one of those flushing tees in the heater hose line, so then I just unscrew the cap and pull the tee and hose up as high as it will go and pour coolant in there until full. Start it up and let it idle until thermostat opens. Let the tstat open and close about 3 times (I monitor temps using forscan so it's easier to detect thermostat actuation). Put plunger into no spill funnel and dump rest in to reservoir and fill more after a cooldown.
I found another easy way and that is to use a hand held vacuum pump and draw a vacuum from modified cap. Keeping overflow reservoir full until it quits drawing. My Ram truck uses 4 gallons and never gets hot enough in driveway to open the t-stat.
I changed my thermostat also and i think it makes sense now why my gauge doesnt even go up, i knew it had to go in a certain way but it must of moved on me while putting it back together.Thanks for your video. Hopefully i can put it in how you did and have my gauge working again.
Bleeding the air from the heater core and lines fixes the gauge. Thermostat positioning is important but not the fix. Bleeding all air from system is the fix...
Ok im going to give that a try🙏🏽 thankyou!!
Definitely going to use that wire trick. Thanks for that
self adhesive sticker on stant thermostats. I didn't know this when I generated the video. Dumb me..
Thanks for posting this video. I didn't know about having to bleed the heater hoses - good thing I watched this before putting a wrench to my Ranger.
Brad Beall - Thanks for commenting. For sure system must be bled of air.
I like the SS wire idea. Just did one of these yesterday and I managed to get the TS to lodge in the neck enough to get it installed, but it took some messing to get it.
I'd like to know how in sam hill you got the left side bolt started, you know, the one we don't see you do. Starting the right side is easy. I did that. Now trying to even find the hole for the left side is taking me hours.
When the thermostat was stuck open..the temp gauge needle wouldn't move or move up just a little??
Hi...Why did you remove the wire before fitting it..thanks
You did a great job on the vidio. And for some reason, the shroud on my 1999 ford ranger is a lot bigger and more in the way than yours.
Supposed to peel off the white paper on the thermostat so it will stick in the housing.
Cool. Easy enough to fix. Thanks
Great Video, thank you.
Visualized where bolts were located on the new thermostat housing & blindingly found the head of screw based on the new housing followed guidelines. So excited to get done. I'm not sure I put the thermostat with the burp hole you refer to at 12 O'Clock? Do I have to take it all apart again? 00 Mazda B2500 2.5L is there an easier way to burp coolant line, than removing those hoses while running the engine? Have a hard time with those hose clips?
First thanks for commenting.... And no need to mess with alignment of T-stat hole at 12'Oclock.
Bleeding is a must with these engines.
You can position vehicle on a hill or extreme jacking of vehicle so that the removed radiator fill is higher than that of the engine. Run engine to temperature with cap off. I've never been lucky enough to have this technique work but I read some do.
Do any of you know the size thread and length of the housing bolts??
Thanks for the video was very helpful!
Good job bro
Great video. I have to do the same now on my 2.5 L
Some Tstat gaskets have peel back stickers allowing it to hold Tstat in place not requiring holding with wire
i see no bleed valve on the Thermostat. 12 oclock and 6oclock look exactly the same
Me too
I agree.. I don't understand what the guy is talking about
Ive never installed a thermostat without a bleed hole... and wasted probably 2 hours researching for my lil ranger lmao
Great video was able to do it at home at midnight w a flashlight haha
Great. Did you use a high quality thermostat? Thanks for commenting.
very clean engine bay!
I keep my engine that clean on my 01. Makes it nicer to work on.
For sure.
i just looked at the pic on autozone for that duralast thermostat. it looks like crap. i'm going to order a stant. and, wow. that's interesting how to hold that thermostat into place with wire.
John Doe my video is incorrect. Peel the tape back and it will stick permanently to the housing for installation. No wire needed. My bad
oh ok (-:
Thanks for the tips...All hoses are hot, but my gauge still wont come up to normal...give it gas, and it blows nice and hot...gauge moves up a bit...at idle, it drops and cooler (warm air) comes out...I bled the system and I would assume all the air is out?..Any other tips?..thanks
MADSKILLS R/C - do you have a small water hose going to bottom of intake manifold?
Also what temperature thermostat are you running?
installed a 195 thermo...only heater hoses running to thermo and water pump underneath...I do have a very small hose coming from the Heater control valve that runs to the top on the manifold (intake side)..I pulled every hose at least 3 times...went thru at least 2.5 gallons of coolant making sure there was no air...truck runs great...Im thinking defective thermo...pulling it out next week to test it..thanks for the reply..
Might want to check to make sure the little hoses to and from the manifold are not blocked with crud. Mine were completely blocked. Cleaning seemed to make a difference in bleeding time and gauge operation and with cold weather warm up and starting. Good luck
MADSKILLS R/C did you ever figure it out? I just bought a ranger and its doing the excat same thing.
Having the same problem temp gauge not coming up exchanged the t-stat burped the system and still not getting up to temp will see if I can find that small hose and check it also is it easy to find I have a 96 ranger
Great idea!! Great info thanks!
It’s a lot easier to get to everything if you take off the fan shroud.
I bet. This video is more about the bleeding process than thermostat swap out.
Can anyone help me with the size thread and length of the housing bolts?
Do you knw the thread size and length of the bolts for the thermostat housing?
Good video- I need to do my thermo and the info. you provided was very helpful. The bolts on mine have not been off in 20 years..do you imagine I will have trouble getting them off without breaking them? Did u use thread sealer to the bolts on installation? Thanks.
David h most likely the bolts will come out fine. No thread sealer required. My video is incorrect. T-stat has build in sticker feature to keep it in place during installation.
Mines a 3.0..with upright housing with 2 bolts...di I need to burp this 3.0 too? Thats the part that looks like it may be an issue..never done that..
Thank you for your video.
I replaced thermostat in our 98 Ranger 2.5. I'm getting the temp gauge to register properly BUT the cab temp coming out of the vents is not very warm. What now?
Gene D - still sounds like air in system. These little trucks are PITA to bleed.
Well done!
lockwire is a smart idea
catranger01 thanks
This video helped alot
Thanks back you and for commenting.
why are you changing the stat? Its nice that you showed us half of the procedures, but you never told us why you did it, something failed, no heat, overheating, or what?
Two reasons. First the housing was leaking. Secondly the previous thermostat was sticking causing rise of temp almost to red followed by total loss of coolant temperature indication from air and delayed ECM open loop. Hope this helps.
Is it ok to use well water, in lieu of distilled? Thanks. Thanks for video
Well water typically not demineralized so not recommended.
I assume that means it can clog up the Radiator, or worse, eventually. Might be why my thermostat stuck shut. Live and learn. Thank you. I, also, purchased the Stant, yesterday. It was MADE IN MEXICO. I hope Mr. and Mrs. Stant are happier and wealthier, now.
Don't you need a New Gasket for the Thermo Housing with gasket maker? And...what is a LIMA engine? I have a 1999 Ranger 2.5L.....
Housing has a built in o-ring. No gasket is used. Google Ford 2.5 Lima. Undoubtedly same in 1999 as my sons 98. These great little engines were build by Ford in Lima, Ohio.
I bought the same part from rock auto the thermostat sit in there just fine, i doesnt fall off. Now my temperature gauge fluctuates. Wth?
Sounds like air in the cooling system..Must replace all air in system with coolant. Rangers are a PITA to bleed out the air
@mediajunkie2195 thanks man. Really appreciate your help.
Is Ok, Thanks
So I have to buy aircraft wire to install the thermostat. 😅
Weedeater string works. Just harder to tie/wrap once you pull it through. Make sure to make it long.
How many times do you usually have to take the line off the heater control valve? I tried doing mine and one line from the motor almost instantly sprayed water. The one closest to fender I did 3-4 times till it got to hot and the water was barley coming out.
Super Dave operate the valve until hot water seen from the other port
Ask Fuji Hakayito. Impostor.
I wouldn't trust "made in USA" products. USA has shitty craftsmanship
Everything is made like crap and engineered to fail nowadays.