A word of warning to everyone wanting to do the same: Do not use a miter saw designed to cut wood on the 80/20 extrusions. The RPM are too high risking bind up and serious kickback. Yes, it is possible to cut quite a few extrusions, but in the long run it's an accident waiting to happen. Instead use a miter saw with low RPM designed to cut metal and is preferably oil cooled. Unfortunately I am speaking from experience. Did not mean to take away from this awesome video, but add to it. Thanks for sharing your building process!
@@jonathanz2543 get a miter saw designed for cutting metal (low RPM + Oil cooled). If that's not an option, then be very careful and keep the blade cool, don't use a lot of pressure when cutting and let the blade cool down after each cut. I haven't tried it yet but you might have luck with spraying some oil onto your cut, however this might also become messy. Be very careful though! Good luck!
I'm 53 , building out a van for my husband and myself as we are recent empty nesters. Thanks to you I am thoroughly enjoying the process!!! Showing your mistakes is beyond helpful, and you are skilled at producing an efficient but fun video! I appreciate your attention to detail and work ethic!!! I hope this finds you well !!
I used 8020 to build my camper van, too. Bought some off eBay, some on Amazon, and some from Grainger. For anyone who uses this stuff, recommend buying 8 ft lengths of 1.5 x 1.5 aluminum angle iron, and cut your own right angle connectors. Make a jig, and drill holes in these with a drill press. Also ... I tried the same method of cutting the extrusion with a radial arm saw, but I must of used the wrong type of blade. I got a LOT of aluminum “slag” that “smeared” the cut ends. Had to use a bandsaw instead. Two years later, 20,000 miles, and hundreds of nights, every joint is still super tight and the just like when it was installed. Expensive, and worth it.
@@user-bi3nx6nu9m Minor differences. Got some great bargains on eBay when purchasing lots of “end cuts” (left-overs from others’ major projects). You have to keep your eyes open.
@@smarreel6071 the vast majority of the force in this application is shear stress in the vertical direction, not really pulling the rivnuts out. Most professional van builders have been using rivnuts with a lot of success, I can share some videos if you’re curious. Plus, rivnuts will hold up to 600 pounds pullout each. That’s more than enough. www.rivet-nut.com/assets/rivnut_mechanical_properties.pdf
You need to ground all that aluminum to the chassis. You also need a thermal break so that the heat is not transferred onto the frame of what ever you are building. Installing a rubber washer between the 8020 and the plusnuts might be enough.
^^^^He's totally right. As terrible as this may sound, you need to break it thermally and that may require demounting it. I'd vote for mass loaded vinyl cut into strips 1.5" wide to line all 8020>Van runs of aluminum extrusion. Grounding will be way more straightforward assuming that most of this is interconnected throughout your van. I love the build and the ingenuity of the mild fabrication with bar stock and tapped holes. You have some awesome skills and attn to detail!
Everything is already Grounded to the Chassis / Body due to the fact he’s used Nuts / Bolts and Rivnuts - nothing else is required. Aluminium is a poor conductor of heat so there will be minimal issues with Heat Transfer.
@@gabefabian3400 Aluminum is a great thermal conductor (more thermally conductive than steel!) and needs to be grounded if you break the thermal bridge between the van structure/skin and the extrusion... and to be clear, you really should break it thermally. If you have exposed aluminum exposed to hot/vapor rich air (See cooking, breathing, showering, etc) you are going to get condensation which leads to moisture build up which leads to mold which leads to a van rebuild.
Check out the “Humble Road” channel. He also uses 8020. The best recommendation he has is to mock up your design in 3D using cardboard first. That way you can walk through it and make adjustments using real life dimensions.
The idea of those 80/20 good but you have to coat with special paint otherwise it will attract moisture and mold in the winter. Humble and this dude have no idea of full time van life.
@@girlpowered1696 i think he means that water will condense on a cold surface and then drip , whereas wood framing wouldn't have water condense on it as easily
This is gold! Been waiting for you to do this video, my second build is going to be all 80/20! Thank you for the knowledge and great informative videos!
Well all I can add is the experiences are real ... when you do this 7 times you gain the experience to make it easy what I appreciate is the highlighting of the small challenges ... thank heaps
It is lighter and stronger than a wooden structure. But the best part is that it is very easy to change the setup. It just takes some nuts and tools. I have been using a similar setup in my 4x4 for a couple of years now and being able to add and change things on the fly is really helpful.
I advise using a negative rake blade for cutting aluminium. Basically, the teeth face backwards, pushing down on the aluminium, not hooking upwards as it cuts. Reduces very scary accidents with the blade throwing your aluminium across the workshop, wrecking your saw. I learnt the hard way 🇦🇺
Thanks for the video. Its really helped me with my build so far. I'm using 8020 for the first time and one thing that is concerning is just how much it conducts heat/cold. I left some pieces of 10 series in the van when it was 95f and they were super hot to the touch when I got back. Its definitely something to account for. I really think you have to do an AC if you do 8020 that's how much I think it conducts heat. I'm using vinyl to help prevent the heat transfer. Also, the 10 series is plenty strong I think. I ordered all 10 series as its considerably cheaper than the 15. I think its perfect for the kitchen galley and cabinets as it maximizes drawer space and then I'd probably do 15 series in the bed area as the 10 is fine but 15 would be sturdier. It's so much nicer/fun to work with than ply which I've used in my previous vans. I'm doing a really similar layout to yours except mines a 144wb. Do you like the white panels?I'm thinking of doing white laminate panels, to help brighten up the space and there easy to clean.
One of the greatest channels on van building IMHO. I wanted to ask you why you don't use a 1" 8020 frame instead of the 1.5" one. It is smaller so smaller footprint in a tiny space such as a van. Do you think it's not that sturdy?
I love your videos and learning from, younger guys who are knowledgeable in the future Most men just resort to wood and I haven't learned anything new in years Thank you
Hi. Thanks for this advice. Very helpful. I'm starting in the journey of building my own van. Once I choose the van I will be employing some of you ideas into my van. I'm in the UK and just wished we could get half the stuff you can at a similar price. Anyhow, thank you and I will continue to utilise your videos.
I love working with extruded aluminum. I built my minivan using 2020 instead of 8020 at a significant savings and I could get it in black. And it provides 0.043 inches deflection at 24” span under 250# load, which was plenty for my use.
Using alumium framing is genius. I’m looking to make a truck bed cot out of it. Should be light enough for one person to move in and out when I need to use my truck bed. Great video, happy adventures.
First proper van build I have seen on CZcams. Might not be as cool or funny like all the other ones, but you know how to plan, you thought about which materials to use and you know how to use powertools safety. Thank you for this great content.
Steven, your videos are genuinely educational with a level of detail most others miss. Many thanks for putting these together. Your channel is my go to place for my van project.
Absolutely epic. I'm thinking about using smaller 80/20 for some parts in the van I'm planning, but in terms of weight-to-strength ratio you can't beat it!
I'm also curious about the smaller 8020 (mostly to ensure the largest possible drawers, shelves and generally make the most of the space) - how does it compare in strength? Do you reckon it can be build sufficiently strong as a basis of all the cabinets or even for a bed-construction?
@@thefuture986 cabinetry, yes, bed construction? maybe, but you'd have to be quite diligent with your triangles and reinforcement, and even then I'm not sure. but cabinets? absolutely
@@Evanrodge Seems about right intuitively. So I guess 1010 for cabinetry and 1515 for the bed (with a support beam in the middle?) might work? I'm an absolute noob at this stuff tbh.
@@thefuture986 If I'm right (maybe not) you have this info in the datasheet (obviously not on amazon, but if you ask the manufacturer...) So with a lenght and a load value, for each given size you can know the max stress and also the max deflexion... Don't forget you can mix sizes... Use 1 inch square for a pair of small vertical "legs" for example, and for a long beam between these legs, you can use a rectangle profile of 1 x 2 inches... This is the beauty of alu extrusions...
@@thefuture986 yep, 1515 is MORE than enough for a bed as long as you have at least one support beam and use the triangle reinforcers in the corners for stiffness. You'd need to have slats to support the mattress of course but yeah structurally that seems fine. And I say that because that's what I made my roof rack out of for my Element and put nearly 250lbs of stuff up there lol.
I don't plan on using it for my cabinet structures. But I will be using aluminum U-channels at the top and bottom of my wall panels and around the edges of my ceiling. These were good tips for anchoring them in place. For the gap at the angle between the walls and the ceiling, I'll be using crown molding so that I can use that gap to run wires, indirect lighting, etc. I'll just have to remove the molding to access things easily. And using the aluminum you channel will make it easy If I do have a problem with water or mold behind the walls. It's just a matter of removing screws from brackets along the top and bottom to access what's behind the wall panels.
I was considering using the 8020 for my van build and I had so much questions... untill now. I think you gave me an answer to almost everything I needed to know to convince myself! Your video came right on time for me ;) Thanks man and good luck with your project!
Okay, I've been watching for months and as of yesterday I have my van. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I'm in Petaluma so will be hitting you up for local connects. Peace!
Amazing video - nicely done. Can't wait to see how you face the 80/20 now! I just ordered my 80/20 for my van. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Loving your videos. Thanks for the detailed explanations. For the haters concerned about strength, you can always use higher grade bolts or socket headed cap screws to make the fasteners stronger (since the fasteners are the weakest part of the insanely strong framework). I've done some work with extrusion but I'm still learning lots from what you're doing.
I think a better way to attach to wall is: 1- use the plus nuts to attach them to the factory holes, 2) attach 3/4" plywood firring strips to wall via the plus nuts 3) now you can just screw in the frame ANYWHERE to the firing strips. No holes in your van !
Nice Seven !! Only thing I would revise in Van#3 is to thermally isolate all those alum to steel van connections. Your insulation is "shorted out" by all the direct conduction thermal paths. My design uses 90deg FR4 brackets tied to the OEM van rails....very quick and easy. I can remove all my subassemblies quickly. Tie 8020 rail perpendicular to each OEM van rail.
Considering the steel itself is on the inside of the van (and will be covered by wall panels) and the 80/20 is on the inside of the van (and will be covered by wall panels), does this make a difference?
Mike is right. Also, consider aluminum is highly thermally conductive. Using wood or high density plastic spacers between the 80/20 brackets and the van steel would eliminate alot of that thermal transfer.
@@BrendaTharp I use cut pieces (1 1/2 or 2" ) from: Fiberglass Angle, Gray, 2" Height, 2" Width, 60" Length, 1/4" Wall Thickness bought from Amazon, sually about $45. Careful when cutting....FR4 dust real bad....may want to do outside, with mask....I don't, but I'm careful :)
@@seven_o_savage Hey Seven. My experience is that the 8020 subassemblies sure act like a big finned alum heat sinks. Working in the van all summer in FL with the AC on inside: the 8020 was all sitting about 75deg and the van steel/OEM rail at the FR4 bracket was usually >20deg hotter. The outside metal was even hotter. Very hard to get 20deg delta on steel to alum direct contact.
@@mikecol99 I learned a lot about thermal bridging when I was looking into container homes. Glad you brought this up, just hope Savage can make some adjustments.
Same concerns as others. Would use 80/20 only for stationery purposes. Too concerned that to would rattle loose over time. Working with an aluminum metal fabricator can actually be less expensive and more sturdy, but your design has to be spot on.
Nice build & explanation, I suggest @0:22:37 using an isolating thread-locking compound to prevent the stainless steel from corroding the aluminum & or vibrating out. Locktite makes a few types.
@@peterdods425 it's just to complete an electrical circuit if there was ever a situation where something were to short out. With vans taking a bit of a beating something could shake loose over time. If that something is a wire that's supposed to be supplying power, say to an induction cooktop, and it ends up supplying all that power to your galley frame, you're gonna have a bad time if it isn't grounded to the chasis. Everything has to return to the negative terminal on the car battery, the chasis of that van is connected to it. So connecting all that aluminium to the chasis of the van (make sure you use a big enough cable to handle the potential in the batteries) in effect connects it to the car battery.
They should sell 80/20 at the hardware store... most people don't even know this stuff exists. I'm thinking about making a DIY truck camper out of 80/20. Your build is looking great man, keep it up...
As always, really enjoyable vid ! Couple of Thoughts: Misumi has probably the broadest selection of 80/20 type materials and related components. DrillHog makes REALLY Great Cobalt Stepdrill bits 👍🏼 If you make a mark (typically an ‘x’ or >) to mark which side of your cut line that the blade goes on, you avoid the possibility of coming up ‘short’ on (Intended) length. The hole for PlusNut was a bit big, better to have JUST enough dimension to tightly insert retainer (PlusNut). Countersink stainless machine bolts save even more (space) in to L brackets than Buttonhead. Nothing WRONG with your methods, just perhaps Viewers might benefit from suggestions. Great Job ! Love your vids. You deserve every bit of your monetization ☺️
Great build series. I used 1” 80/20 on a drawer system for my truck and have had issues with bolts/tnuts coming loose anywhere I used single L brackets to connect two pieces of extrusion. I used 80/20’s machined connectors for all the corners and they’ve been solid. I think your frame will rattle loose pretty quickly without some blue loctite on the threads. Opting for birch ply and pocket hole construction on my next build. Interested to see how this holds up.
No matter what you build it will loosen over time, a van flexes continually, only way to offset is to mount everything flexibly ie rubber mounts, one mistake most builders make is mounting cabinets to floor and side wall, both are flexing in different plains, mount cabinets to the floor only even if full height with a small gap to sidewall.
@@andywt8460 Yeah, I was wondering how fixing a rigid aluminum frame to a steel van body that is flexing in all sorts of different ways would wear over time. The bolts of the frame are constantly tensioning and detensioning as the van body flexes. I think a floating system made out of a more flexible material that anchors fast only to the floor would allow for the natural flex of the body and avoid putting so much stress on the system.
Very cool build and helpful video! I would think for the battery tray, than a vertical jack stud, midway in the longitudinal span to support the 300lbs of batteries. Otherwise, you are relying on the angle bracket and bolts alone. The Plusnuts are the bomb! I would just use those exclusively with the 80/20 angle brackets and not bother with the carriage bolts. Might make removal/changes to the structure easier too. A bed platform out of 80/20 would be ideal too. There is so much value to unpack in your video, very, very helpful!!!
Threadsert or a Rivet Nut is what the fasteners are called that are installed in the sheet metal. In the video, these fasteners are referred to as Plus Nuts. Perhaps that is a name brand, but that can be confusing. I have used the T-Slot aluminum profile for many projects. Again, in the video this product was referred to by its brand name 80/20. Great video and great execution of the plan.
I agree 3D program helps a lot. I'm using Blender to fuel my dream! Its free, and extremely powerful :-). My build is going to be crazy thanks to all that sharing of experience. definitely going with the 820 armature, Linear bearing fixture you can stuff in and make things moving from an extremely solid and light support structure. Thanks for your tips, man!
I gotta see a 6-12 month update after it’s been on the road. It’s hard to believe none of those bolts rattled loose. The bolts holding my bed come loose just from getting in and out. Granted it’s not 80/20 but still pretty solid
This is an excellent video. Can you say more about how you plan to panel your walls and your ceiling around your 80/20 structures? Most builds I've seen have continuous walls and ceilings, like you did your floors. But that seems impossible with how the 80/20 structures attached directly to the van metal obstruct some of the wall and ceiling area. Thanks!
@@preluded try ACF50 or corrosion x you can get it from aircraft spruce’s website. Use in a well ventilated area & follow ppe requirements! www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/corrosion.html
Awesome. Was thinking to mount to the wall you could use the roll in t-nuts and all thread or studs with no head. Also would work for many other applications. Keep up the awesome work.
I’ve used a lot of extrusions. Good for stationary builds. To be honest, you could have used cheap squared steel and welded. There would be no chance of parts coming loose...and they will come loose because your van is twisting. Plywood that is glued with titebond 3 is also a great option.
cleaning, priming, painting will all take time as well. when you make a design mistake it's harder to correct as well. 8020 is very productive to build with. if you have more time than money there are cheaper ways to do it, for sure
This will be the new way of RV construction. As the average weight saved by using it over wood. Is over 800lbs....Add the fact I used the 80/20 to mount motors straight to it. Then I can control the Monitor hide feature in the wall. When not in use or traveling. I found several other places to mount high torque screw\belt\gear drive motors...
Some detail but this is important: when you join two horizontal extrusions with one vertical, you shall have the vertical up to the top and the others on the sides of the vertical bar instead of having one horizontal bar above and resting on the vertical one. Believe me I've been working with aluminum extrusions for decades ! The way I explain gives stronger structure and it's described this way in the specs. So the cutting for the batteries is smart but wrong, sorry... I know it's not obvious but check he specs... One free trick: add Nord-Lock washers where you're afraid of screw untightening, and you'll be safe for ages. For example the Humvee is assembled with these washers, some tramway wagons also. Just ask them for a free sample and do the test.
Hello, i'd be grateful if you can PM me on this or explain it better here, i'm a bit confused, i'll even paypal you some money for your advice, but i need to know better what you're talking about. i'm building a hanging bed that only comes across half my van with the other half housing my motorcycle and i'm think that i will have the horizontals that hold the frame on top of the verticals as the horizontals can't slide down then, but it seems like you say this is exactly how not to do it? Thanks in advance for your help!
@@seven_o_savage Hi, sorry for the long time reply. For the extrusions thing, no link, this is just my personnal +20 years of experience as mechanical engineer... If you are interressed in the washers, check this link : www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/technology/ It explains the idea behind the "wedge" system, and it's really effective. These washers are a bit pricy but it worth every $. If you need a (little) cheaper alternative, Heico make almost the same : www.heico-group.com/en/heico-lock/products/wedge-lock-washers/ Hope it will help
Valuable content, it would be helpful to watch you attach the 80/20 with the plus nuts; the use of a square head carriage bolt is puzzling to imagine in application. Thanks!!
Very informative and complete with some great tips and ideas. I noticed the framework rests on a “subfloor” if you will. That will provide some thermal break at the bottom. I was wondering though, if you’re going to use the van in the winter, it didn’t look like you provided a thermal break at the walls or ceiling. If you’re not going to be living/traveling in the van in the winter, no big deal. If you are, that framework is going to really be bringing that cold inside. I was waiting to see if you used the delrin for that. But, once again, great video and tips and subbed.
What happens when you have a rear end accident and one of those insanely strong 80/20 extrusions goes through your chest like a spear? I suppose such a thing could happen with wood. I do not think very many van interior builders consider even the affects of a soup can flying forward at 15 mph much less the fictitious event I have put forth. The one thing which I consider essential is some sort of barrier between the driver and objects which might find its way into the cab of the vehicle during an accident. Food for thought.
Given that the builder anticipates completely barrel rolling his van, your hypothetical rear end collision is fair comment! Its nice to see that someone else respects that during a vehicular collision or accident anything not securely fastened down instantly becomes airborne, and invariably heads towards the space occupied by the crew! When considering an interior fit out, great care should be taken to ensure that in the event of an accident, no supports, fittings, furniture or equipment will become forcibly propelled into the space occupied by the driver and passenger. A length or sheet of wood or metal propelled into the crew survival space can have horrific consequences, as can a microwave oven! Likewise, having heavy cast iron pans and kitchen knives hanging or magnetically held to the kitchen wall doesn't seem such a great idea if they strike the back of one's skull or shatter the windscreen sending glass fragments airborne at face height due to a collision forcefully dislodging and propelling them! Unfortunately, such instances are not at all uncommon and social media even has some videos of the aftermath of even slow speed collisions!
I got some push back from this and the person called me “ clueless.” I suppose my most concern would be rear end collisions where object such as horizontal long and stiff structures would be pushed forward and less from the front end sudden stop accidents which heavier objects break loose and come forward. I believe both of those situations deserve some attention when considering an interior build out. You may or may not be able to do all which needs to be done but all that you can, you should. I believe the least one can do is place a barricade of sorts which can protect the driver from objects which might travel forward. Heavier objects such as batteries should be well secured and perhaps caged and heavily bolted to the frame of the vehicle.
@@crawford323 I'm in complete agreement with you. I see many build outs which present real hazards to the front seat crew in the event of a front or rear impact! Unfortunately, people simply don't think of these things! I'd much rather people learn of these hazards by hearing about them rather than experiencing them as victims!
I hear what you are saying. This and fire would be my primary safety concerns, followed by theft. Anyways, I think putting a partition behind the driver cabin and back would possible alleviate and reduce the danger here. Most Chevy cargo vans come stock with a partition. One could even build a custom one with a little doorway. This adds a few things: privacy, safety, insulation, and security. I'm strongly considering this on my Chevy extended build. Additionally, I dont think I'll want ALL 80/20. But it should be utilized when desired
A very helpful video. Simple to follow and correct instructions. No BS. However, I noticed that there was no insulation between the van body and the aluminium cabinets. That does not appear correct.
Typically 15 series is the better way to go unless you REALLY need the extra space in a few select areas where not much weight will be placed, mostly because the connections on 10 series are not as strong as the 15 series. OurKaravan has an article on 10 vs 15 and why he uses 15, but that's a major factor
European RV manufacturing uses light weight laminate ply, I have one and after many years it never creaked. Another plus of ply is there is no wasted space. Seems like lots of dead space behind cabinets that a ply system would eliminate.
A word of warning to everyone wanting to do the same: Do not use a miter saw designed to cut wood on the 80/20 extrusions. The RPM are too high risking bind up and serious kickback. Yes, it is possible to cut quite a few extrusions, but in the long run it's an accident waiting to happen. Instead use a miter saw with low RPM designed to cut metal and is preferably oil cooled. Unfortunately I am speaking from experience. Did not mean to take away from this awesome video, but add to it. Thanks for sharing your building process!
then what is your suggest, to cut the 80/20 extgrusions? thanks
@@jonathanz2543 get a miter saw designed for cutting metal (low RPM + Oil cooled). If that's not an option, then be very careful and keep the blade cool, don't use a lot of pressure when cutting and let the blade cool down after each cut. I haven't tried it yet but you might have luck with spraying some oil onto your cut, however this might also become messy. Be very careful though! Good luck!
@@ThePhiliposophy thanks
The Aluminum Carpenter has great cutting method and tools.
Ive watching The Aluminum Carpenter and they have some amazing cutting and carpentry techniques.
Ooo I’m gonna check them out!
I'm 53 , building out a van for my husband and myself as we are recent empty nesters. Thanks to you I am thoroughly enjoying the process!!! Showing your mistakes is beyond helpful, and you are skilled at producing an efficient but fun video! I appreciate your attention to detail and work ethic!!! I hope this finds you well !!
I used 8020 to build my camper van, too. Bought some off eBay, some on Amazon, and some from Grainger. For anyone who uses this stuff, recommend buying 8 ft lengths of 1.5 x 1.5 aluminum angle iron, and cut your own right angle connectors. Make a jig, and drill holes in these with a drill press. Also ... I tried the same method of cutting the extrusion with a radial arm saw, but I must of used the wrong type of blade. I got a LOT of aluminum “slag” that “smeared” the cut ends. Had to use a bandsaw instead. Two years later, 20,000 miles, and hundreds of nights, every joint is still super tight and the just like when it was installed. Expensive, and worth it.
Was there a difference in price between Amazon, Grainger and eBay?
@@user-bi3nx6nu9m Minor differences. Got some great bargains on eBay when purchasing lots of “end cuts” (left-overs from others’ major projects). You have to keep your eyes open.
@@bitman05 ah makes sense. I'll stick to Amazon then since it's so convenient. Thanks for replying
I love using the 80/20 T-Slot aluminum. You were talking about the space saved but look at the weight you cut out as apposed to using a lumber frame.
It's great stuff but SUPER expensive.
Thank you! Someone finally showed how to mount it to the walls and you explained it in depth plus it was NOT in fast mode.
czcams.com/video/DU9BDUWpNIg/video.html
Rivnuts are easier.
@@VanGoWanderlust Rivnuts don't have the same grip strength.
@@smarreel6071 the vast majority of the force in this application is shear stress in the vertical direction, not really pulling the rivnuts out. Most professional van builders have been using rivnuts with a lot of success, I can share some videos if you’re curious. Plus, rivnuts will hold up to 600 pounds pullout each. That’s more than enough. www.rivet-nut.com/assets/rivnut_mechanical_properties.pdf
You need to ground all that aluminum to the chassis. You also need a thermal break so that the heat is not transferred onto the frame of what ever you are building. Installing a rubber washer between the 8020 and the plusnuts might be enough.
^^^^He's totally right. As terrible as this may sound, you need to break it thermally and that may require demounting it. I'd vote for mass loaded vinyl cut into strips 1.5" wide to line all 8020>Van runs of aluminum extrusion. Grounding will be way more straightforward assuming that most of this is interconnected throughout your van. I love the build and the ingenuity of the mild fabrication with bar stock and tapped holes. You have some awesome skills and attn to detail!
Everything is already Grounded to the Chassis / Body due to the fact he’s used Nuts / Bolts and Rivnuts - nothing else is required.
Aluminium is a poor conductor of heat so there will be minimal issues with Heat Transfer.
@@jamesosborne4132 re: "Aluminium is a poor conductor of heat" Incorrect.
Why the need to ground the aluminum to the chassis and avoid transferring heat to the frame?
@@gabefabian3400 Aluminum is a great thermal conductor (more thermally conductive than steel!) and needs to be grounded if you break the thermal bridge between the van structure/skin and the extrusion... and to be clear, you really should break it thermally. If you have exposed aluminum exposed to hot/vapor rich air (See cooking, breathing, showering, etc) you are going to get condensation which leads to moisture build up which leads to mold which leads to a van rebuild.
Check out the “Humble Road” channel. He also uses 8020. The best recommendation he has is to mock up your design in 3D using cardboard first. That way you can walk through it and make adjustments using real life dimensions.
The idea of those 80/20 good but you have to coat with special paint otherwise it will attract moisture and mold in the winter. Humble and this dude have no idea of full time van life.
@Chris maybe but then you get it right when you actually use it later
@@897aa33 Aluminum doesnt mold, smh
@@girlpowered1696 i think he means that water will condense on a cold surface and then drip , whereas wood framing wouldn't have water condense on it as easily
This is gold! Been waiting for you to do this video, my second build is going to be all 80/20!
Thank you for the knowledge and great informative videos!
I am a structural engineer and maybe I am fighting windmills, but honestly, wood is the ultimate carbon fiber.
I've been watching Humble Road George's van builds with 80/20 and I love the concept. Very nice video!
Looks great. There's joy in using 80/20. Once it's bolted to the frame of the van, it feels like it's truly part of the van.
Well all I can add is the experiences are real ... when you do this 7 times you gain the experience to make it easy what I appreciate is the highlighting of the small challenges ... thank heaps
It is lighter and stronger than a wooden structure. But the best part is that it is very easy to change the setup. It just takes some nuts and tools. I have been using a similar setup in my 4x4 for a couple of years now and being able to add and change things on the fly is really helpful.
I advise using a negative rake blade for cutting aluminium. Basically, the teeth face backwards, pushing down on the aluminium, not hooking upwards as it cuts. Reduces very scary accidents with the blade throwing your aluminium across the workshop, wrecking your saw. I learnt the hard way 🇦🇺
Thanks for the video. Its really helped me with my build so far. I'm using 8020 for the first time and one thing that is concerning is just how much it conducts heat/cold. I left some pieces of 10 series in the van when it was 95f and they were super hot to the touch when I got back. Its definitely something to account for. I really think you have to do an AC if you do 8020 that's how much I think it conducts heat. I'm using vinyl to help prevent the heat transfer.
Also, the 10 series is plenty strong I think. I ordered all 10 series as its considerably cheaper than the 15. I think its perfect for the kitchen galley and cabinets as it maximizes drawer space and then I'd probably do 15 series in the bed area as the 10 is fine but 15 would be sturdier. It's so much nicer/fun to work with than ply which I've used in my previous vans. I'm doing a really similar layout to yours except mines a 144wb. Do you like the white panels?I'm thinking of doing white laminate panels, to help brighten up the space and there easy to clean.
One of the greatest channels on van building IMHO.
I wanted to ask you why you don't use a 1" 8020 frame instead of the 1.5" one. It is smaller so smaller footprint in a tiny space such as a van. Do you think it's not that sturdy?
I love your videos and learning from, younger guys who are knowledgeable in the future
Most men just resort to wood and I haven't learned anything new in years
Thank you
Very nicely done. I’ve been watching tons of videos to get ideas to build my own truck slide in camper. You have some clever solutions.
Hi. Thanks for this advice. Very helpful.
I'm starting in the journey of building my own van. Once I choose the van I will be employing some of you ideas into my van.
I'm in the UK and just wished we could get half the stuff you can at a similar price.
Anyhow, thank you and I will continue to utilise your videos.
Love 80/20 it is literally the easiest stuff to build with.
Give us a bloody ballpark cost on the 80/20 for the whole van so we know what we are getting into.
😂😂😂
I cant speak for US, but in Czech, these Extrusions are not that bad. For this kind of build, probably in 1500 USD area.
I just watched a 30 minute video and didn't get a cost estimate😢
I love working with extruded aluminum. I built my minivan using 2020 instead of 8020 at a significant savings and I could get it in black. And it provides 0.043 inches deflection at 24” span under 250# load, which was plenty for my use.
Using alumium framing is genius. I’m looking to make a truck bed cot out of it. Should be light enough for one person to move in and out when I need to use my truck bed. Great video, happy adventures.
First proper van build I have seen on CZcams. Might not be as cool or funny like all the other ones, but you know how to plan, you thought about which materials to use and you know how to use powertools safety. Thank you for this great content.
Steven, your videos are genuinely educational with a level of detail most others miss. Many thanks for putting these together. Your channel is my go to place for my van project.
Absolutely epic. I'm thinking about using smaller 80/20 for some parts in the van I'm planning, but in terms of weight-to-strength ratio you can't beat it!
I'm also curious about the smaller 8020 (mostly to ensure the largest possible drawers, shelves and generally make the most of the space) - how does it compare in strength? Do you reckon it can be build sufficiently strong as a basis of all the cabinets or even for a bed-construction?
@@thefuture986 cabinetry, yes, bed construction? maybe, but you'd have to be quite diligent with your triangles and reinforcement, and even then I'm not sure. but cabinets? absolutely
@@Evanrodge Seems about right intuitively. So I guess 1010 for cabinetry and 1515 for the bed (with a support beam in the middle?) might work? I'm an absolute noob at this stuff tbh.
@@thefuture986 If I'm right (maybe not) you have this info in the datasheet (obviously not on amazon, but if you ask the manufacturer...)
So with a lenght and a load value, for each given size you can know the max stress and also the max deflexion...
Don't forget you can mix sizes... Use 1 inch square for a pair of small vertical "legs" for example, and for a long beam between these legs, you can use a rectangle profile of 1 x 2 inches... This is the beauty of alu extrusions...
@@thefuture986 yep, 1515 is MORE than enough for a bed as long as you have at least one support beam and use the triangle reinforcers in the corners for stiffness. You'd need to have slats to support the mattress of course but yeah structurally that seems fine.
And I say that because that's what I made my roof rack out of for my Element and put nearly 250lbs of stuff up there lol.
Regular Picasso! well explained, like the 4 parts with extrusions,
I love it. It's clean and strong. I still liked the simplicity of how you build the first van. I'm an old carpenter and you impress me
I don't plan on using it for my cabinet structures. But I will be using aluminum U-channels at the top and bottom of my wall panels and around the edges of my ceiling. These were good tips for anchoring them in place. For the gap at the angle between the walls and the ceiling, I'll be using crown molding so that I can use that gap to run wires, indirect lighting, etc. I'll just have to remove the molding to access things easily. And using the aluminum you channel will make it easy If I do have a problem with water or mold behind the walls. It's just a matter of removing screws from brackets along the top and bottom to access what's behind the wall panels.
I was considering using the 8020 for my van build and I had so much questions... untill now. I think you gave me an answer to almost everything I needed to know to convince myself! Your video came right on time for me ;) Thanks man and good luck with your project!
Okay, I've been watching for months and as of yesterday I have my van. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I'm in Petaluma so will be hitting you up for local connects. Peace!
Love the build! I am only installing a single cabinet and a pull out bed, so ill stick with wood. However, for your purpose, it’s extremely practical
Amazing video - nicely done. Can't wait to see how you face the 80/20 now! I just ordered my 80/20 for my van. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Loving your videos. Thanks for the detailed explanations. For the haters concerned about strength, you can always use higher grade bolts or socket headed cap screws to make the fasteners stronger (since the fasteners are the weakest part of the insanely strong framework). I've done some work with extrusion but I'm still learning lots from what you're doing.
Every video of yours I watch I am becoming a bigger and bigger fan. Thanks for the content brother!
Bro your material is gold, I'll do a similar project. Thank you for sharing!
I think a better way to attach to wall is: 1- use the plus nuts to attach them to the factory holes, 2) attach 3/4" plywood firring strips to wall via the plus nuts 3) now you can just screw in the frame ANYWHERE to the firing strips. No holes in your van !
plus it would provide a thermo break
Nice Seven !! Only thing I would revise in Van#3 is to thermally isolate all those alum to steel van connections. Your insulation is "shorted out" by all the direct conduction thermal paths. My design uses 90deg FR4 brackets tied to the OEM van rails....very quick and easy. I can remove all my subassemblies quickly. Tie 8020 rail perpendicular to each OEM van rail.
Considering the steel itself is on the inside of the van (and will be covered by wall panels) and the 80/20 is on the inside of the van (and will be covered by wall panels), does this make a difference?
Mike is right. Also, consider aluminum is highly thermally conductive. Using wood or high density plastic spacers between the 80/20 brackets and the van steel would eliminate alot of that thermal transfer.
@@BrendaTharp I use cut pieces (1 1/2 or 2" ) from: Fiberglass Angle, Gray, 2" Height, 2" Width, 60" Length, 1/4" Wall Thickness bought from Amazon, sually about $45. Careful when cutting....FR4 dust real bad....may want to do outside, with mask....I don't, but I'm careful :)
@@seven_o_savage Hey Seven. My experience is that the 8020 subassemblies sure act like a big finned alum heat sinks. Working in the van all summer in FL with the AC on inside: the 8020 was all sitting about 75deg and the van steel/OEM rail at the FR4 bracket was usually >20deg hotter. The outside metal was even hotter. Very hard to get 20deg delta on steel to alum direct contact.
@@mikecol99 I learned a lot about thermal bridging when I was looking into container homes. Glad you brought this up, just hope Savage can make some adjustments.
Same concerns as others. Would use 80/20 only for stationery purposes. Too concerned that to would rattle loose over time. Working with an aluminum metal fabricator can actually be less expensive and more sturdy, but your design has to be spot on.
Nice build & explanation, I suggest @0:22:37 using an isolating thread-locking compound to prevent the stainless steel from corroding the aluminum & or vibrating out. Locktite makes a few types.
Man this is awesome. Thank you.
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Very nice. Make sure you ground all of those structures to the chasis of the van though!
I've seen this advice often enough. Can you explain why? I don't quite get it.
@@peterdods425 it's just to complete an electrical circuit if there was ever a situation where something were to short out.
With vans taking a bit of a beating something could shake loose over time. If that something is a wire that's supposed to be supplying power, say to an induction cooktop, and it ends up supplying all that power to your galley frame, you're gonna have a bad time if it isn't grounded to the chasis.
Everything has to return to the negative terminal on the car battery, the chasis of that van is connected to it. So connecting all that aluminium to the chasis of the van (make sure you use a big enough cable to handle the potential in the batteries) in effect connects it to the car battery.
@@MrMJBall if it’s bolted to the van it’s grounded.
Thanks for all the selfless effort, a real good inspiration for other projects, is there a way to get the sketchup files?
You are awesome in detailing your progress and entertaining to listen to.
They should sell 80/20 at the hardware store... most people don't even know this stuff exists. I'm thinking about making a DIY truck camper out of 80/20. Your build is looking great man, keep it up...
I agree!
Thanks for the details on your build... knowing what little bolts etc to use really helps
This would be perfect for my fold down bed.
Can you send me photos of how you hinge your fold down table
As always, really enjoyable vid ! Couple of Thoughts:
Misumi has probably the broadest selection of 80/20 type materials and related components.
DrillHog makes REALLY Great Cobalt Stepdrill bits 👍🏼
If you make a mark (typically an ‘x’ or >) to mark which side of your cut line that the blade goes on, you avoid the possibility of coming up ‘short’ on (Intended) length.
The hole for PlusNut was a bit big, better to have JUST enough dimension to tightly insert retainer (PlusNut).
Countersink stainless machine bolts save even more (space) in to L brackets than Buttonhead.
Nothing WRONG with your methods, just perhaps Viewers might benefit from suggestions.
Great Job ! Love your vids. You deserve every bit of your monetization ☺️
Good suggestions, thanks 240z2nv!
@@seven_o_savage you’ve given me Tons of Inspiration, so ..... 🤷🏻♂️
Great job bro! Looks great! Thanks for this detailed video.
Great build series. I used 1” 80/20 on a drawer system for my truck and have had issues with bolts/tnuts coming loose anywhere I used single L brackets to connect two pieces of extrusion. I used 80/20’s machined connectors for all the corners and they’ve been solid. I think your frame will rattle loose pretty quickly without some blue loctite on the threads. Opting for birch ply and pocket hole construction on my next build. Interested to see how this holds up.
No matter what you build it will loosen over time, a van flexes continually, only way to offset is to mount everything flexibly ie rubber mounts, one mistake most builders make is mounting cabinets to floor and side wall, both are flexing in different plains, mount cabinets to the floor only even if full height with a small gap to sidewall.
@@andywt8460 Yeah, I was wondering how fixing a rigid aluminum frame to a steel van body that is flexing in all sorts of different ways would wear over time. The bolts of the frame are constantly tensioning and detensioning as the van body flexes. I think a floating system made out of a more flexible material that anchors fast only to the floor would allow for the natural flex of the body and avoid putting so much stress on the system.
Very cool build and helpful video! I would think for the battery tray, than a vertical jack stud, midway in the longitudinal span to support the 300lbs of batteries. Otherwise, you are relying on the angle bracket and bolts alone. The Plusnuts are the bomb! I would just use those exclusively with the 80/20 angle brackets and not bother with the carriage bolts. Might make removal/changes to the structure easier too. A bed platform out of 80/20 would be ideal too. There is so much value to unpack in your video, very, very helpful!!!
Extremely helpful, well presented and great attention to detail. Really helped me out!
Very cool thank you so much I’m definitely going to go 8020 when I bite the bullet. Love your videos you’re very inspiring thanks for sharing
Threadsert or a Rivet Nut is what the fasteners are called that are installed in the sheet metal. In the video, these fasteners are referred to as Plus Nuts. Perhaps that is a name brand, but that can be confusing.
I have used the T-Slot aluminum profile for many projects. Again, in the video this product was referred to by its brand name 80/20.
Great video and great execution of the plan.
Watching your videos keeps the stoke for me to do my own van build! One day! Love all the detail you give!
🤙
I agree 3D program helps a lot. I'm using Blender to fuel my dream! Its free, and extremely powerful :-). My build is going to be crazy thanks to all that sharing of experience. definitely going with the 820 armature, Linear bearing fixture you can stuff in and make things moving from an extremely solid and light support structure. Thanks for your tips, man!
You don't want it to be 'insanely strong'. You want your stuctures to move and flex with the van. All the best, Hein at DIYvan
I gotta see a 6-12 month update after it’s been on the road. It’s hard to believe none of those bolts rattled loose. The bolts holding my bed come loose just from getting in and out. Granted it’s not 80/20 but still pretty solid
Did you loctite those bolts?
Nice ,thanks for your time. I started with ? and now I have answers. I need to get started on my design.
Well done bro. Professional work. Loved it. Thumbs up
Thank you so much. Next time, add the 3-d drawings for me to keep it all sorted out.
This is an excellent video. Can you say more about how you plan to panel your walls and your ceiling around your 80/20 structures? Most builds I've seen have continuous walls and ceilings, like you did your floors. But that seems impossible with how the 80/20 structures attached directly to the van metal obstruct some of the wall and ceiling area. Thanks!
Thanks for this! Just converted me from wood to aluminum!
Instead of rustolem paint, I’d recommend trying cpc, corrosion preventive compound, we use it on aircraft!
What is the brand name...I can't find this...
@@preluded try ACF50 or corrosion x you can get it from aircraft spruce’s website. Use in a well ventilated area & follow ppe requirements!
www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/corrosion.html
Love ur video! Thanks for showcasing the pros & no con’s in my view of 80/20; it’s also a safety feature. Get cracking on those push ups!
4:46. . . ."deploy rotate tool."
This gave me a good laugh!!! ;-)
Awesome. Was thinking to mount to the wall you could use the roll in t-nuts and all thread or studs with no head. Also would work for many other applications. Keep up the awesome work.
Really nice job and so informative. Thank you. I'm inspired!
I’ve used a lot of extrusions. Good for stationary builds. To be honest, you could have used cheap squared steel and welded. There would be no chance of parts coming loose...and they will come loose because your van is twisting. Plywood that is glued with titebond 3 is also a great option.
cleaning, priming, painting will all take time as well. when you make a design mistake it's harder to correct as well. 8020 is very productive to build with. if you have more time than money there are cheaper ways to do it, for sure
Absolutely stunning.... loving your work dude
thanks for making this. I've been a little intimidated by all the components
As a former structural worker, you should install a ground tail on every metal joint, thank me later😊
dude, 22" shelves all around, a must for small spaces..
This will be the new way of RV construction. As the average weight saved by using it over wood. Is over 800lbs....Add the fact I used the 80/20 to mount motors straight to it. Then I can control the Monitor hide feature in the wall. When not in use or traveling. I found several other places to mount high torque screw\belt\gear drive motors...
Some detail but this is important: when you join two horizontal extrusions with one vertical, you shall have the vertical up to the top and the others on the sides of the vertical bar instead of having one horizontal bar above and resting on the vertical one. Believe me I've been working with aluminum extrusions for decades ! The way I explain gives stronger structure and it's described this way in the specs. So the cutting for the batteries is smart but wrong, sorry... I know it's not obvious but check he specs...
One free trick: add Nord-Lock washers where you're afraid of screw untightening, and you'll be safe for ages. For example the Humvee is assembled with these washers, some tramway wagons also. Just ask them for a free sample and do the test.
Interesting, do you have a link?
Hello, i'd be grateful if you can PM me on this or explain it better here, i'm a bit confused, i'll even paypal you some money for your advice, but i need to know better what you're talking about.
i'm building a hanging bed that only comes across half my van with the other half housing my motorcycle and i'm think that i will have the horizontals that hold the frame on top of the verticals as the horizontals can't slide down then, but it seems like you say this is exactly how not to do it? Thanks in advance for your help!
Why join 3 pieces at the same place (junction)?
@@seven_o_savage Hi, sorry for the long time reply.
For the extrusions thing, no link, this is just my personnal +20 years of experience as mechanical engineer...
If you are interressed in the washers, check this link : www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/technology/
It explains the idea behind the "wedge" system, and it's really effective.
These washers are a bit pricy but it worth every $.
If you need a (little) cheaper alternative, Heico make almost the same : www.heico-group.com/en/heico-lock/products/wedge-lock-washers/
Hope it will help
@@jackinkc767 If I'm not that crazy, in each corner you'll have 3 parts, right ?
Tape Triangles 🤩
Wonderful. Vanlife is fun. I live in Japan and enjoy remodeling cars.
Rough estimate for cost is $900 with Dewalt Miter saw and stand $1500. Definitely not an inexpensive frame. It is a great work of art.
Yes the tools get pricey. On my first van I got away with minimal tools though so it’s doable to get started for cheap!
I love this 80/20 to rebuild my Pro master Van
I recently started my own van conversion.. It’s great to see your progress, thanks for sharing! 😀👍
That's awesome!
I Use a magnet to catch the iron filings
It's aluminium!
@@lucboisseau5586 Iron filings from the van body
Valuable content, it would be helpful to watch you attach the 80/20 with the plus nuts; the use of a square head carriage bolt is puzzling to imagine in application. Thanks!!
Sky, I agree. I can't imagine how to get a wrench into such tight cavities to tighten the nut onto the carriage bolts.
fantastic explanations
Very informative and complete with some great tips and ideas.
I noticed the framework rests on a “subfloor” if you will. That will provide some thermal break at the bottom. I was wondering though, if you’re going to use the van in the winter, it didn’t look like you provided a thermal break at the walls or ceiling. If you’re not going to be living/traveling in the van in the winter, no big deal. If you are, that framework is going to really be bringing that cold inside. I was waiting to see if you used the delrin for that.
But, once again, great video and tips and subbed.
I like your Diablo saw blade
You have an Awesome Site and your very detailed vlogs Seven.. thanks for doing this and learning alot from you.
great video mate, thanks for sharing....greetings from Australia
Looks like you ran through this 80/20 build compared to the first! Great work
I really enjoy out videos.
What happens when you have a rear end accident and one of those insanely strong 80/20 extrusions goes through your chest like a spear? I suppose such a thing could happen with wood. I do not think very many van interior builders consider even the affects of a soup can flying forward at 15 mph much less the fictitious event I have put forth. The one thing which I consider essential is some sort of barrier between the driver and objects which might find its way into the cab of the vehicle during an accident. Food for thought.
Given that the builder anticipates completely barrel rolling his van, your hypothetical rear end collision is fair comment!
Its nice to see that someone else respects that during a vehicular collision or accident anything not securely fastened down instantly becomes airborne, and invariably heads towards the space occupied by the crew!
When considering an interior fit out, great care should be taken to ensure that in the event of an accident, no supports, fittings, furniture or equipment will become forcibly propelled into the space occupied by the driver and passenger.
A length or sheet of wood or metal propelled into the crew survival space can have horrific consequences, as can a microwave oven!
Likewise, having heavy cast iron pans and kitchen knives hanging or magnetically held to the kitchen wall doesn't seem such a great idea if they strike the back of one's skull or shatter the windscreen sending glass fragments airborne at face height due to a collision forcefully dislodging and propelling them!
Unfortunately, such instances are not at all uncommon and social media even has some videos of the aftermath of even slow speed collisions!
I got some push back from this and the person called me “ clueless.” I suppose my most concern would be rear end collisions where object such as horizontal long and stiff structures would be pushed forward and less from the front end sudden stop accidents which heavier objects break loose and come forward. I believe both of those situations deserve some attention when considering an interior build out. You may or may not be able to do all which needs to be done but all that you can, you should. I believe the least one can do is place a barricade of sorts which can protect the driver from objects which might travel forward. Heavier objects such as batteries should be well secured and perhaps caged and heavily bolted to the frame of the vehicle.
@@crawford323 I'm in complete agreement with you.
I see many build outs which present real hazards to the front seat crew in the event of a front or rear impact!
Unfortunately, people simply don't think of these things!
I'd much rather people learn of these hazards by hearing about them rather than experiencing them as victims!
I hear what you are saying. This and fire would be my primary safety concerns, followed by theft.
Anyways, I think putting a partition behind the driver cabin and back would possible alleviate and reduce the danger here. Most Chevy cargo vans come stock with a partition. One could even build a custom one with a little doorway.
This adds a few things: privacy, safety, insulation, and security. I'm strongly considering this on my Chevy extended build.
Additionally, I dont think I'll want ALL 80/20. But it should be utilized when desired
A very helpful video. Simple to follow and correct instructions. No BS. However, I noticed that there was no insulation between the van body and the aluminium cabinets. That does not appear correct.
thanks for posting. Lots of great tips, techniques and what not to do's!
Thank you from being thorough.
any concern that the aluminum frame adds too much rigidity to the van and taking away some of the flex that the van needs?
8020 is so strong had you ever thought of using the 10 series instead of the 15 series.
I have the same question!
Typically 15 series is the better way to go unless you REALLY need the extra space in a few select areas where not much weight will be placed, mostly because the connections on 10 series are not as strong as the 15 series. OurKaravan has an article on 10 vs 15 and why he uses 15, but that's a major factor
80/20 for lyfe!
European RV manufacturing uses light weight laminate ply, I have one and after many years it never creaked. Another plus of ply is there is no wasted space. Seems like lots of dead space behind cabinets that a ply system would eliminate.
Absolutely amazing videos and nicely done. I am truly impressed how curved the walls of the sprinter really are.
Greeting from Sweden. SKANDIVAN.