Thank you, I was able to follow everything I am a novice I will definitely watch more of your videos! Please keep up your presentation style it is very comprehensible
I've had two rad batteries, one since 2019, and that one got sold with my bike with 3800 Mi on it, in working condition. My current 48 volt rad battery that I'm using on my bike right now, has a documented 12k (!) Miles on it, with only a slight loss in range, after all these years. I ride my bike a minimum of 5 Mi a day, and I got to tell you other than being through three or four Chargers that burned out from getting caught in rain storms, this is one of the most reliable battery powered thing I've ever owned. It's absolutely amazing that the Samsung cell, ( greenish blue) along with a fairly large circuit board BMS, has managed to run trouble free for over12,000 mi, and still going strong. I am amazed by this performance. Thank you, Rad bikes for a fantastic product.❤Rad💥😏👍💯
Think I can trust the BMS that comes with commercial 48v ebike batteries like the Super73 and AddMotor bikes? I want to charge them directly with a 325Watt 60v solar panel (no controller)that will put out around 60v 5a under ideal conditions, but likely 1/2 that .
Hey mate, I wouldnt recommend it. The BMS is meant to be the redundancy protection - in a perfect world the bike controller would cut out from low voltage before the bms has to, and likewise the charger should cut off at full voltage before the BMS does. By relying solely on the bms, you dont have any backup protection in case it fails. A small, 60v mppt would be your best bet.
@@BobsEVGarage Thanks. Too bad these batteries don't come with built in ports and DC charge controller. Its a big battery and valuable for more than just driving the motor.
Those Sanyo GA cell usually last a lot longer then the 500 cycles. I gotten on my original pack from years ago about over 1200 cycles before they degraded. They are really good cells. I wonder if they just didn’t charge it and when into LV protection. I would test voltage on each of the series groups. You might be able to get a few groups out of it and may only a few bad cells. If cell is below 1 volt then bad as won’t try to recover due to unstable. But if above 1v maybe can be recoverable? Could also be cells are fine and BMS just when bad? That a Luna cycle pack from around 2014 era as they way they assemble them during that time. You can look up date code on cell as well. Kind of shock they didn’t use a BMS with balancing resistors usually located by white connector?
Thanks for the info! I think the data sheet does 100% SOC in its tests, so your results make sense. I suspect this pack is very old, and yeah probably sat discharged for a while. Cells are all corroded around the positive terminal, resting at around 3.4 volts on all of them. BMS also caught me by surprise, I guess they assumed good cells will not need balancing until late in their life.
@@BobsEVGarage kind of surprised that resting at 3.4 and no lights on case meter? Corrosion never good as could have vented but they don’t have pressure valve like LG does? I wonder if water got into case, or just old and started leaking?
Cant say for sure, but if they fit properly, I think it should work. There usually isnt any electronics in the bracket anyway, just some wires, so shouldnt matter about voltage.
Hey there, I am a noob when it comes to electronics very into ebikes. I have been a bicycle mechanic for a few years. I have been watching some battery repair videos as of late. I am confused on how you can tell that this bms didnt have a balance circuit? Because it looks like it does have all the balance wires going into the pcb. How can you tell? It has been a challenge learning how precisely bms work.
Hey Nauruming! Great question! To perform balancing on a battery pack, the BMS has special 'shunt' resistors, which heat up to burn off power. If the BMS doesnt obviously have a number of large resistors, it probably doesnt perform balancing. Also, on the circuit, you can see the spots where the resistors would be fitted.
@@BobsEVGarage right on, so glad I found your videos, I love that you cracked open both a controller and a charger. Also discovered electronoobs from your list of channels that you subscribe to. Which has a video on diy bms. Also greatscott has one that I just found. So if the bms didnt have shunt resistors to balance charge, what would the 14 small white wires be used for? I think that the greatscott video also mentioned that not all bms have balancing features but those series wires still exist.
@@nauruming Those are both great channels! The wires are used for voltage sensing. Lithium cells need to remain within 2.5 - 4.2 volts, otherwise there is damage to the cells. The wires just tell the BMS if the cells are out of a safe range, so it knows to shut off charging and output.
I learned a lot watching this video. Soon I will be tearing into an almost identical battery pack. The 14S battery pack has 55 volts measured through the charging 3 pin XLR port but zero volts through the main hook up (2 pin 12mm plug). I'm thinking the bms is bad, there is a bad cell or maybe a fuse has blown. Any ideas? Have you ever seen a 3 pin XLR charging port? The XLR obviously has + pin, - pin and but what is the third pin? Temperature?
Sounds to me like a blown fuse on output side. Possibly bms as well. Generally the 3 pin ports only use two of the pins, but now that you say it, the third pin would be good for communication between charger and battery...
More importantly, what did the Label say the battery was in terms of Amp Hours of current and voltage. Often the sellers of battery packs engage in liar's poker on specs.
Hi I've got 52v175 same battery had it about 3years it's still working well apart from the switch on and off. Somtimes the bike slows down quickly and stop when I switch off then back on the lcd stops on and it's OK. Somtimes when I hit a bump in road it slowly down again then I've got to switch off then on and it's fine so cou it be the switch failing or faulty I've checked motor wires sometimes these can move if not plugged in properly I thought I would send a message to give me an idea what could be wrong I haven't took battery apart
@@BobsEVGarage hi if it was a week battery I do 6 miles every Tuesday to get my tablet fro chemist I check battery on the lcd full charge is 58.6 when I come back its 55.5 every time mind I do 35mph that drops battery pretty quickly. If the battery was dodgy the reading would not be the same all the time could it be a faulty switch I've checked fuse connection there fine I've checked the motor wires to controller use tiny screw dri dr to push on connections I've done that journey for three years battery still reads the same apart from if I take it for a long run but thanks for replying
Thank you, I was able to follow everything I am a novice I will definitely watch more of your videos! Please keep up your presentation style it is very comprehensible
I've had two rad batteries, one since 2019, and that one got sold with my bike with 3800 Mi on it, in working condition. My current 48 volt rad battery that I'm using on my bike right now, has a documented 12k (!) Miles on it, with only a slight loss in range, after all these years. I ride my bike a minimum of 5 Mi a day, and I got to tell you other than being through three or four Chargers that burned out from getting caught in rain storms, this is one of the most reliable battery powered thing I've ever owned. It's absolutely amazing that the Samsung cell, ( greenish blue) along with a fairly large circuit board BMS, has managed to run trouble free for over12,000 mi, and still going strong. I am amazed by this performance. Thank you, Rad bikes for a fantastic product.❤Rad💥😏👍💯
I ride recreationally on exact same battery, Hailong brand.
No issues, no heat on the sides, long range, hills, offroad👌
Excellent work.
Nice find man!
Thank you. That was informative.
Nice one dude
Wonder if there's any packs being made with pouch type cells or prismatics..
Was there a reason to destroy case and battery pack altogether, when there’s a good chance issue was with a bms?
Great video. Can you get the same Panasonic cells and the required BMS online? Reasonable prices?
Thank you
Im havjng issues with the on and off switch. Was wondering if thered any way to fix it. It wont turn on and constantly on.
Think I can trust the BMS that comes with commercial 48v ebike batteries like the Super73 and AddMotor bikes? I want to charge them directly with a 325Watt 60v solar panel (no controller)that will put out around 60v 5a under ideal conditions, but likely 1/2 that .
Hey mate, I wouldnt recommend it. The BMS is meant to be the redundancy protection - in a perfect world the bike controller would cut out from low voltage before the bms has to, and likewise the charger should cut off at full voltage before the BMS does. By relying solely on the bms, you dont have any backup protection in case it fails. A small, 60v mppt would be your best bet.
@@BobsEVGarage Thanks. Too bad these batteries don't come with built in ports and DC charge controller. Its a big battery and valuable for more than just driving the motor.
36v 16ah battery which charger use sr?
Those Sanyo GA cell usually last a lot longer then the 500 cycles. I gotten on my original pack from years ago about over 1200 cycles before they degraded. They are really good cells. I wonder if they just didn’t charge it and when into LV protection. I would test voltage on each of the series groups. You might be able to get a few groups out of it and may only a few bad cells. If cell is below 1 volt then bad as won’t try to recover due to unstable. But if above 1v maybe can be recoverable? Could also be cells are fine and BMS just when bad? That a Luna cycle pack from around 2014 era as they way they assemble them during that time. You can look up date code on cell as well.
Kind of shock they didn’t use a BMS with balancing resistors usually located by white connector?
Thanks for the info! I think the data sheet does 100% SOC in its tests, so your results make sense. I suspect this pack is very old, and yeah probably sat discharged for a while. Cells are all corroded around the positive terminal, resting at around 3.4 volts on all of them.
BMS also caught me by surprise, I guess they assumed good cells will not need balancing until late in their life.
@@BobsEVGarage kind of surprised that resting at 3.4 and no lights on case meter? Corrosion never good as could have vented but they don’t have pressure valve like LG does? I wonder if water got into case, or just old and started leaking?
@@thetechgenie7374 I reckon water damage.
Do these brackets matter within voltage? Can I throw a 48 battery onto a 36v batteries bracket?
Cant say for sure, but if they fit properly, I think it should work. There usually isnt any electronics in the bracket anyway, just some wires, so shouldnt matter about voltage.
Hey there, I am a noob when it comes to electronics very into ebikes. I have been a bicycle mechanic for a few years. I have been watching some battery repair videos as of late. I am confused on how you can tell that this bms didnt have a balance circuit? Because it looks like it does have all the balance wires going into the pcb. How can you tell? It has been a challenge learning how precisely bms work.
Hey Nauruming! Great question! To perform balancing on a battery pack, the BMS has special 'shunt' resistors, which heat up to burn off power. If the BMS doesnt obviously have a number of large resistors, it probably doesnt perform balancing. Also, on the circuit, you can see the spots where the resistors would be fitted.
@@BobsEVGarage right on, so glad I found your videos, I love that you cracked open both a controller and a charger. Also discovered electronoobs from your list of channels that you subscribe to. Which has a video on diy bms. Also greatscott has one that I just found. So if the bms didnt have shunt resistors to balance charge, what would the 14 small white wires be used for? I think that the greatscott video also mentioned that not all bms have balancing features but those series wires still exist.
@@nauruming Those are both great channels! The wires are used for voltage sensing. Lithium cells need to remain within 2.5 - 4.2 volts, otherwise there is damage to the cells. The wires just tell the BMS if the cells are out of a safe range, so it knows to shut off charging and output.
I learned a lot watching this video. Soon I will be tearing into an almost identical battery pack. The 14S battery pack has 55 volts measured through the charging 3 pin XLR port but zero volts through the main hook up (2 pin 12mm plug). I'm thinking the bms is bad, there is a bad cell or maybe a fuse has blown. Any ideas? Have you ever seen a 3 pin XLR charging port? The XLR obviously has + pin, - pin and but what is the third pin? Temperature?
Sounds to me like a blown fuse on output side. Possibly bms as well. Generally the 3 pin ports only use two of the pins, but now that you say it, the third pin would be good for communication between charger and battery...
More importantly, what did the Label say the battery was in terms of Amp Hours of current and voltage. Often the sellers of battery packs engage in liar's poker on specs.
Hi I've got 52v175 same battery had it about 3years it's still working well apart from the switch on and off. Somtimes the bike slows down quickly and stop when I switch off then back on the lcd stops on and it's OK. Somtimes when I hit a bump in road it slowly down again then I've got to switch off then on and it's fine so cou it be the switch failing or faulty I've checked motor wires sometimes these can move if not plugged in properly I thought I would send a message to give me an idea what could be wrong I haven't took battery apart
Sounds to me like a loose balance connection to the bms or from one of the cells, otherwise just a weak battery!
@@BobsEVGarage hi if it was a week battery I do 6 miles every Tuesday to get my tablet fro chemist I check battery on the lcd full charge is 58.6 when I come back its 55.5 every time mind I do 35mph that drops battery pretty quickly. If the battery was dodgy the reading would not be the same all the time could it be a faulty switch I've checked fuse connection there fine I've checked the motor wires to controller use tiny screw dri dr to push on connections I've done that journey for three years battery still reads the same apart from if I take it for a long run but thanks for replying
18650GA is Sanyo battery, 3450mAh and 10A, Colour is also correct :P but question is: is it oryginal Sanyo?
My battery is getting warm.
It looks like this one 😢
Seems to be a 14S4P with 56 cells in total. Therefore it should be a 52V battery or am I wrong ;)
Hahaha yep you are right, I think I had 52v on the title beforehand and didnt get many views so I changed it to a more common number.
@BobsEVGarage that's shady af
Did u make sure that it is original battery
Hey Khalil! What do you mean by original? If you mean a good quality brand, then yes, panasonic.
@@BobsEVGarage yes good quality but it is original cell or copy?
IMO I think it was original cells. Nothing obviously fake about the cells.
@@BobsEVGarage ok if u Are sure then its great.
i always say if you dont like the way something was manufactured then create a better version of it!!!
I am intrigued... Will keep this in mind as a video idea :)
2 Esdras 2: 33
Bless you mate!
Your almost wrong all the way through.... my friend
Hey mate! Thanks for the comment. Can you give any pointers for where I was wrong? Cheers 😀
*You're
How big those single batteries? Its like a AA?
bigger than an AA battery, they are 18mm across, and 65 mm long. It takes 25.4 mm to make one inch.