@@Wonderfullywander just saved a customer $2500 with that repair. You're the man. Hell not only that it saved him being down for several weeks! Dealerships are backed up!
@@lakaja6565 It makes me so happy to know that my video is helping people! Please like the video and subscribe to the channel. It will help my visibility and more people will see it.
Very nice explanation. I will down this vid and keep for that evidentiality. Quick question ... do you think it's possible to get a 30A relay that will work in one of the empty relay slots in the fuse box instead of using an external relay?
You can, it’s just way easier to get the purple and green wire from the harness and use that. Either way you will have to relocate the wire, but using an external relay saves you the haste of tearing the fuse box further apart to try to retrofit a spare relay space. Most of the relays are in a different part of the fuse panel so wiring may be a bit tricky. I got a lot of my advice from a rat rod builder. He said he has been using these external fuses for years and has never had a problem. They are designed to be in some weather under the hood and they hold up well. That was good enough for me and it was easy to wire.
As far as I know they haven’t changed anything from 2017 to new. I haven’t seen what they are doing on the 24 or 25 but the 2020 should be very similar to my 2018
I can’t remember if the fuse had power. the problem is not with the fuse, the problem is the wire melts the connection behind the fuse box. This causes damage and doesn’t allow the relay to function properly. I took my fuse box apart and saw the melted wire. If you want to test to see if this is your issue take the fuse box apart and look at the white harness plug. If it shows signs of damage or melting this is a good indicator that you should try the bypass.
There is one 10 mm bolt on the fuse box. Then you have to pull the box forward. There are tabs on the sides of the fuse box that allow the bottom to separate from the top. Once the bottom of the panel is dropped you can open the fuse box and the white plug is in the back right corner.
So I just went through this issue, and did the repair with remote relay no problem. However, in my research I also came across the issue of possibly needing a relay with a diode, or using an external diode to prevent the issue of "flyback"? I'm not sure if that was the right term, but anyhow it is mentioned because when the fuel pump is shut down, there is the brief milliseconds where current can flow backwards through the pump, and this could possibly damage the PCM? I don't know if the factory relay has a diode or not, or, possibly there is a diode in the fuel pump itself? Anyone have any ideas about this? Nice video by the way!
@@lakaja6565 I reached out to my friend with this question. He is a Master Technician for heavy diesels and has worked for Kenworth for almost 20 years. He said that he has never heard of an issue like that. He told me that once the power turns off the remote wire stops sending power to the relay and it stops the pump. Obviously there have been exceptions because @jamesresh2293 found the info, however I think this is an example of an exception and not something that happens often.
@@roberttaskerjr update: I looked through the fuse diagram. I used a fuse splitter on fuse 34 (10 amp fuse for the blind spot monitoring system) there was no fuse on slot 35 so it allowed my splitter to fit.
@Wonderfullywander Beacuse the ground wire does not need to be 12 or 10 gauge the relay only draws milliamps and all that ground does is turn the coil in the relay on.
Thanks for this video !
My pleasure!
Followed your video and the truck fired right up. Appreciate the very informative video.
Great to hear! We are so glad it helped you out
You are the man easy fix. My 2018 just quit find out I need bad news need new injection CP4 pump failure kit 6k plus labor thanks for sharing .
Dang it! Sorry to hear you need a new CP4 pump. Glad my video helped in some way.
I'm about to try this repair. Hoping this is the issue
Hope it helps you out!
@@Wonderfullywander just saved a customer $2500 with that repair. You're the man.
Hell not only that it saved him being down for several weeks! Dealerships are backed up!
@@lakaja6565 It makes me so happy to know that my video is helping people! Please like the video and subscribe to the channel. It will help my visibility and more people will see it.
Very nice explanation. I will down this vid and keep for that evidentiality. Quick question ... do you think it's possible to get a 30A relay that will work in one of the empty relay slots in the fuse box instead of using an external relay?
You can, it’s just way easier to get the purple and green wire from the harness and use that. Either way you will have to relocate the wire, but using an external relay saves you the haste of tearing the fuse box further apart to try to retrofit a spare relay space. Most of the relays are in a different part of the fuse panel so wiring may be a bit tricky. I got a lot of my advice from a rat rod builder. He said he has been using these external fuses for years and has never had a problem. They are designed to be in some weather under the hood and they hold up well. That was good enough for me and it was easy to wire.
Thanks so much for this info!!! Question would I still need the “30amp box fuse” once I add the inline 30 amp fuse?
No once you install the bypass the 30 amp fuse is basically dead.
I have the same problem with my truck
I'm going to try to see if I have the same problem ty My truck is 2020 it will be the same?
As far as I know they haven’t changed anything from 2017 to new. I haven’t seen what they are doing on the 24 or 25 but the 2020 should be very similar to my 2018
Was there any power to the fuse before you decided to go this route ?
I can’t remember if the fuse had power. the problem is not with the fuse, the problem is the wire melts the connection behind the fuse box. This causes damage and doesn’t allow the relay to function properly. I took my fuse box apart and saw the melted wire. If you want to test to see if this is your issue take the fuse box apart and look at the white harness plug. If it shows signs of damage or melting this is a good indicator that you should try the bypass.
How did you get to the white plug on the fuse panel?
There is one 10 mm bolt on the fuse box. Then you have to pull the box forward. There are tabs on the sides of the fuse box that allow the bottom to separate from the top. Once the bottom of the panel is dropped you can open the fuse box and the white plug is in the back right corner.
So I just went through this issue, and did the repair with remote relay no problem. However, in my research I also came across the issue of possibly needing a relay with a diode, or using an external diode to prevent the issue of "flyback"? I'm not sure if that was the right term, but anyhow it is mentioned because when the fuel pump is shut down, there is the brief milliseconds where current can flow backwards through the pump, and this could possibly damage the PCM? I don't know if the factory relay has a diode or not, or, possibly there is a diode in the fuel pump itself? Anyone have any ideas about this? Nice video by the way!
Thank you that is good information, I’ll look into it.
@@Wonderfullywanderany update
On this??
@@lakaja6565 I reached out to my friend with this question. He is a Master Technician for heavy diesels and has worked for Kenworth for almost 20 years. He said that he has never heard of an issue like that. He told me that once the power turns off the remote wire stops sending power to the relay and it stops the pump. Obviously there have been exceptions because @jamesresh2293 found the info, however I think this is an example of an exception and not something that happens often.
So I have the same issue. The dealer wants to change the entire harness for 6k. I’m going to bring it home and try this fix.
Followed the video and truck started right up. Thanks
I really hope this works for you! At this point ford should recall the harness!
This makes me so happy! I’m glad I was able to help.
What codes was it given u before u fix it
It had a low fuel pressure warning, but I never ran the specific codes
@@Wonderfullywander thanks my truck did the same thing yesterday but shake the fuse box under the hood and it start back working
That tells me you are working on borrowed time. Check the harness plug, I’d bet the connection is melting.
What fuse tap did you use?
I’m not sure I know what you are asking?
@@roberttaskerjr update: I looked through the fuse diagram. I used a fuse splitter on fuse 34 (10 amp fuse for the blind spot monitoring system) there was no fuse on slot 35 so it allowed my splitter to fit.
You do realize that the ground wire only energizes the relay that only draws milliamps
I don’t understand how that’s relevant to the repair?
@Wonderfullywander Beacuse the ground wire does not need to be 12 or 10 gauge the relay only draws milliamps and all that ground does is turn the coil in the relay on.
I used such a big wire because it was what I had. You won’t hurt anything by installing a wire that is bigger than needed.
I agree but you made it sound like it was necessary when a 16ga wire would work fine.. Im j
ust being a hard a** I appreciate the video.