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- čas přidán 9. 04. 2020
- Remote Volume Control and Phone Charger Update
2-sided PCB just $5 for 10 pieces www.pcbway.com
PCB Prototyping the easy way - see my video #129 for Hands-On details.
I bought an IR volume control from Banggood for my workshop and discovered a minor fault that had to be fixed. Works great, and has a nice range too. I'll probably use this to control the volume of my Amazon Alexa, as that is connected to my PC via BlueTooth (it's a bit of a convoluted wiring system in my workshop).
My thermionic valve (vacuum tube) preamp arrived after I finished filming but that's for another day (picture in this video).
Finally, an update on my Smart Phone Charger which is now happily charging my phone at up to 1 Amp.
List of all my videos
(Special thanks to Michael Kurt Vogel for compiling this)
bit.ly/CZcamsVideoList-RalphB...
PRODUCT LINKS
AC/DC 9V Infrared Remote Control Volume Controller Board ALPS Pre Potentiometer
Might be on offer $9.99, normal price $15.82
www.banggood.com/ACDC-9V-Infr...
Si4599 N and P Channel 40V (D -S) MOSFET Expansion Board
www.banggood.com/CJMCU-4599-S...
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My channel, GitHub and blog are here:
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Mixing desks used to use motorised pots (may be thy still do), but they had positional feed back. so that the desk knows where all pots are, so allowing the sound engineer to play with the mixing setup on the fly but also save session settings. the linear sliders look great when the desk it setting them back to last saved settings.
still a great video Ralph.
I like the idea of positional memory. I wonder how they did it? Quite an expensive option, I'm assuming! Glad you liked the video!
@@RalphBacon I had a boss many years ago who loved to talk to us young engineers about the mixing desks he had build over the years. Electronics and fader control were his favourites, sadly he passed away a few years ago. have a look at RS60N11M9-LIN5K ALPS RS60N studio fader
Every maker, worth the name, has seen high end hi-fi equipment with these remote rotating volume controls and immediately thought "I have to have that on one of my projects". Its not a completely logical response, a digital control would perform the same purpose but makers are not completely logic; they have a soul. Thank you for this video. Well, I write thank you, but now I have to clutter my brain with 40 year old dream projects; thanks a bunch.
I expect that like me, your eye clinic appointments have all been cancelled. So, do take it easy, while you have no medical back up. Most of all stay healthy. with great power comes great responsibility and we need you.
There was no logic to speak of when I bought this. Firstly I wanted to see how it worked (my dad's Hi-Fi unit has one and that is probably 30 years old). Secondly I just wanted it! Ha ha! I will put it to good use.
My eye ope was cancelled then rescheduled for last Monday (6th April) but unfortunately it has not had the desired effect. Further treatment will be required to restore my vision (which was pretty good for about 1 day after the op, now cloudy again). Luckily, there are no tall bridges or skyscrapers where I live.
But my responsibility to my ever dwindling viewers is still foremost in my mind. But where is everyone this Easter weekend? I thought we were all locked up at home, eagerly watching CZcams videos (mine, with any luck) but that's not proven to be the case. Lowest viewing figures _ever_ but I thought the video quite interesting. QI. Sigh.
@@RalphBacon I see your total views is very low?? Let's be generous and assume those absent viewers are busy entertaining the kids. So, hopefully, they will play catch up soon. I cannot believe that only 208 (at time of writing) viewers don't check their channel at the end of each week (subscribers are saved this by notifications on desktops and cell phones). I suppose family zooming relatives can obstruct even the most loyal viewer (with or without notifications) from viewing. How they must be pining for that yellow and red font on their screens.
Hey Ralph, nice to see another video. I hope things are going well with you and the rest of your household. Being in lockdown for at least 12 weeks, I thought I'd have so much more time to get on with some projects, but my health has certainly not wanted to co-operate. Although, slowly we've built my workbench back up on a new desk, I just need to find my bench power supply and I think i'm back in business... Working on 3 projects at the mo - One demo board for deciding which type of screen is best for projects (such as ease of viewing, size of text, power consumption and cost) another is a minature milliamp meter to detect current in small circuits and finally something to try and help my memory using RFID tags as 'task tokens' that I can use to register when a 'task' has been completed - I'm very forgetful! So I could have a remote thing show me at the end of the day what i've missed, or my partner could maybe see the data from his phone and offer a gentle reminder?
I like the look of this analog volume control, might get one if there's a way to intergrate it in to my sound system. I saw someone mention earlier about TV adverts being too loud - Some TVs have a feature called AVLS (Auto Volume Level System IIRC!) that tries to make the volumes consistant... or you could do what I used to when I watched TV and pipe the audio through a low power PC, and use something like Equalizer APO on an input and use a VST compressor. Anyway, I think i've waffled enough, really glad to see you up and about. Stay crunchy and stay safe!
It sounds like you have been very busy, Jess, but you know the expression: Work expands to fill the time available!
So with so much more time on our hands, we work more slowly. Or perhaps, in a more detailed fashion! Cross the T's, Dot the I's. That sort of thing, that gets glossed over normally.
I like the idea of an advert sound reducer too. I can't be the only one so I will scan the Internet (all of it), and not get sidetracked by any products I see. 🤥 Yes, Pinocchio was my previous name.
Eye was done on 6th April but unfortunately hasn't achieved the desired effect. More treatment doubtless needed. Drat and double drat. And it all had to come at this Car Owner virus time, too. How inconsiderate.
Keep well and virus free, speak soon.
Great video as usual. Stay safe
I'll try Michael! You too.
Ralph, I've just purchased one of these and did a bit of experimenting with the three pin relay socket and concluded that the socket supplies permanent 5v, permanent ground, and switched ground at the pin marked on. Switching being accomplished by the NPN transistor as you mention. Therefore by connecting a 5v relay between 'ON' and '5v' it will operate when the ON/OFF is pressed on the IR Control and the red led goes off. I have also wired a 5v green led in parallel with the 5v relay and I now consider this as the ON led rather than the red led which is better considered as a 'standby' indicator. I say this because the module remains active and responsive irrespective, whether the red led is on or off. But the green led now indicates the relay is operated. So if you use a relay capable of switching 240vac and suitable current you can now switch power to your audio system. Sounds good but: If the 9v power supply to the module is interrupted whilst in standby mode and then comes on again it goes automatically into the relay operated state. Not good if its the middle of the night and your audio system comes on. So I have used a reed relay on the 9v power in line which releases on power failure and has to be re- activated by a reset button. Therefore the module can be left powered on in standby (Red led on/ Green off). You can press on/off on the IR Remote and your Audio system is activated by the relay (Green led on). If you get a power cut, the module will remain idle until you reset it. Bangood are now selling them at £7.
Wow, quite a bit of research and hands-on experimentation there, Glenn. It sounds like you now have a pretty robust system that won't scare the neighbours should you get a power failure at 2am. thanks for sharing.
Hi Ralph, very good video. Do you have this problem with the potentiometer so far? Because I have the same module and now it produces scratchy noise whenever I turned the volume up/down. I have no idea how to clean it using contact cleaner.
I don't have that issue but I've had it in the past with others. Using switch/contact cleaner (which usually comes with a tiny plastic tube so the liquid goes in the right place) squirt some into the pot, aiming for the track(s). Turn the pot back and forth a few times and you will be surprised at the difference!
Put a tape flag on the shaft like is done in stepper motor demos.
With the smart charger, can you detect any traffic or voltage level on the USB D+ D- when it is plugged in?
Yes, Tom, I should have put a marker or something on that spindle but I think it was still visible? The knob arrived the very next day, so typical. I don't know about the D+/D- lines, I can check that.
Thank you for this video, just what I was looking for. One question, could this remote volume board be powered by 5v usb to dc cable and make a new connector (with plus and ground)? I will only adjust the volume, nothing else.
Well, I ran it on the suggested 9v (DC). Whether it would even work at 5v I don't know.
You could use a buck boost module to increase the 5v to 9v, but you would have to check how much current that motor needs when it's turning. USB can only supply 500mA from your computer but significantly more from a plug-in adapter.
If you intend running it from,say, a computer or laptop you need to ensure it won't need more than 5v at 500mA boosted to 9v (at less current - no such thing as a free lunch).
I _suspect_ a boost module would work fine but there's no way to know for sure without trying it.
@@RalphBacon Thank you!
Cheers mate. Watching video right now.
Cool, keep you occupied for 30 minutes or so.
Good day, my Friend.
Very interesting video, once again. Thanks for the Update on your phone charger. I have the same problem with a Samsung S3 my wife is using as her « Sleep Machine » (noise maker). I was waiting for this update and somewhat final version. I will very much consider building this project, but with a Nano (much smaller).
Have a great day and we'll talk soon, I'm sure. Thumbs up, my Friend.
I will be using a smaller device too, either a Nano or Pro Mini. I got my new USB magnetic cable today, stops me having to unplug the cable 100 times a day! PCB design started! Speak soon, Daniel.
I have one of these motorized pots in my parts bin, and 2 more in a couple of curbside carryout stereo amplifiers on a shelf. I haven't found a use for the pots yet, but they are quite common on old amps. I save old amps primarily for the massive magnetics, the pots and extras are just a bonus.
I don't watch TV but IMO it would be interesting to use one of these in combination with a DSP and software to detect changes in audio compression. Every time a stupid commercial comes on that exploits compression to amplify the audio, I'd like to have a device to lower if not mute it entirely. That's one project I want to try if I ever manage to graduate to playing with a dsPIC33 or one of the TI DSP thingies.
Thanks for the upload.
-Jake
I'm with you on the perceived loudness of adverts on TV, Jake, so annoying. If you ever get it working you will be a millionaire!
Ralph. Good video. I bought four of these for inclusion in a high-end-pro-audio mic pre-amp. Big problem is, the ON/OF button doesn't actually turn the unit off. Pres '-' or '+' , even with the remote PCB apparently turned off, simply changes the pot setting. Not much good if you can isolate a single preamp in a rack of 16 or whatever. I also don't get the rest to the mute position on power up. Any thoughts, comments? Thanks. Mike
The on/off is more of a signal than turning of this device - but you could always arrange your microcontroller to kill the power to the pot when it received the on/off signal. The mute (actually, just a low volume setting) always happens with mine when I switch it on from cold.
@@RalphBacon just going to have a hardwired external unit that controls a rack of them. Breaks the motor feed or connects it. What range have you found the IR Txer to be good for? The receiver does seem to be pretty omnidirectional but wondering if I should have the detector peeking through the 2U front panel. Thoughts please.
Hi Ralph, very interesting video, just received mine today, but not clear how to connect the audio signal. Thanks
Input audio goes to the outside of the board, marked LIN, RIN and GND (look _under_ the board). Output is marked LOUT and ROUT near the front of the pot, marked on TOP of the board.
If you use a multimeter, the input goes to one end of each pot (the other is GND) and the wiper is the output. I hope this helps!
Thank you I will try. Keep the good work.
Is there a way to disable the return to the 9 o'clock position?
That seems to be fixed, in order that you don't blow your ears off when you next switch on. It's actually a great feature (for me) but not what you seem to want.
The socket is called a *JST* connector -- I see the volume control from the US at: $15.40 at Banggood.
JST - that's it, that terrible battery connector that can be wired either way and short out your drone! I know it too well. In this case, no such damage one hopes especially as it is a keyed and custom wiring layout. Thanks for the brain nudge!
I am very sure that I did not pass DC current through the pot. The mechanics of the unit worked well. The audio part of it went from no sound to all sound at the very end of travel. Oh well Ralph some do and some don't. Mine don't. Thanks for your interesting and informative videos. Keep em coming.
Well, that's unfortunate for you then, such a shame. Better luck next time. 😥
Hey Ralph, this remote volume pot thing bugs me . Give me, if you please and not getting tired of my problem, an example of passing dc through the pot. I only have audio in and out. The input is coming from the B speaker out from the back of my Yamaha receiver through RCA connections and then out to a single speaker. I'm only using one channel. Is there something you think I'm overlooking? 🤔
Thank you much.
Is there any way to cancel/bypass that annoying (for me) function to return to minimum at power on? Thanks
I think they call that a feature, Alex, and as far as I know it's fixed. Sorry.
@@RalphBacon Thank you,I was afraid of that,at least it looks cool :) But as you said there are variations of it,and I found one smaller and simpler,so ,I'll just have to replace it,as far as I know only this has this feature. I had to do the same reverse engineering as you in order to use it for muting my amp,I I connected a double 12V low level (5V) trigger relay module ,trigger connected to that pin and of course using the NC contacts at relay and the same power supply for both . This way that transistor on the board was isolated and safe so everything is working well for 3 years now..
Thanks Ralph
Cheers, Mark, thanks for posting.
So if that Spider gets an assistant they will be able to give us some presentations on hexadecimal eh 🤣🤣
What if one has lost a leg?
Hello Ralph, nice video. At first I was saying to myself. Why does the transistor turn on when you shut the unit off ?? But then I went back a bit and saw that the on/off is independent of the motor. Take care, thanks for this video.
Glad you liked it Joey! Yes, I'd be tempted to inhibit moving the volume control via the IR control when the system was "off", probably simple to do, but, hey, for ten quid it's well worth it anyway!
Hi Ralph, A pot with a DC motor, a bit "agricultural" I thought, but if it's a decent quality pot then yeah, why not. I agree with you about the board being a reject, the wording from the seller " not important " says it all ! but having a switch is great you can use it for whatever you like, it's good to have options...cheers!
Yes, after the repair the agricultural "pot" (ho ho) works as intended!
There is something familiar about the layout and form on the remote controlled volume, I believe I've seen it somewhere before.
When BanngGood give an answer like that, it would seem that all the boards has the same faulty transistor connection.
Good update on The Smart Charger. On those cheap components the tolerances can be a bit on the wide side. Could explain the "bad" connection.
Could also be the that either male or female connector is dirty. A pain to clean.
I am looking forward to hear about your experience with the tube amplifier, I read somewhere that some of then have an odd ringing when bumped.
No ringing on the amp (I've just tapped both tubes). Very retro. Thanks for posting, Flemming.
What he's referring to there is called "microphonics", and is the result of tube elements moving when subjected to mechanical vibration. I used to be a service center for a lot of electronic musical equipment, and on ordering some "new" tubes from a certain well-known maker of guitar amps (M*****l) the ones they sent all had this fault. I suspect that it's probably poor welding of the grid wires to their support posts causing this.
wow, I want this. just ordered one, €10.11 shipped..
I want to hack it, use the pot to control my tube guitar amp volume.
(get one more and make some sort of preset thingy with an arduino)
is it a stepper motor?
No, it's a motorised potentiometer; that is, a small motor attached to the spindle of an otherwise normal pot (but made for this purpose). Works well.
Did you find out what kind of motor it is? I would like to control this using an ESP32. Just wondering if it's using PWM or just + - Voltage.
@@scottlecomte6511 no, it got canceled :(
Id love to use one of these to make a digitally recallable analog EQ for pro audio applications
You can also get (at higher cost) motorised linear slider controls like the ones they use in mixing desks in real music studios.
@@RalphBacon
Dear Eng Ralph i need speak with u plz
Do u have whatsapp ?
@@RalphBacon the 'Flying Faders' and similar systems using motorised faders usually with touch-sensitive fader knobs are ONLY used on the main mix section. EQ and other controls are rotary pots (or switches for filters etc).
Keep healthy Ralph! Doesn't your mom(mum) live in Germany? Are you able to visit her, or is there no travel between countries? Best of luck & health to you and yours.
She does indeed live in Germany , Steven, and no, I'm not allowed to travel there. Even if I could get there, I would not be let into the country. She's doing well, keeping isolated at home. But getting bored. Thank goodness for WhatsApp. Keep safe #stayhomesavelives
Ralph, instead of this motorized pot, why not use a digital pot like the ones from your Video #88? Combining that with a rotary encoder for manual adjustments would be smaller and have no moving parts. It would also have the virtue of being easy to use with a second digital pot when controling stereo volume/balance.
The reason is that I actually _wanted_ a moving part, Andrew, so that I can adjust the volume just a fraction (if required) rather than using a digital fixed amount. And quickly if required. But a digital volume control could have worked too, but less fun IMHO!
could you do this with a simple rc servo? cheap as chips.
Maybe. I haven't tried it but some servos can go 360-degrees round so it might be possible if the strength of the servo is enough. It would also give positional information (eg 10%, 20% volume).
@@RalphBacon I just thought SERVO is a built in Arduin library. They definitely have powerful enough RC servos used on model airplanes pretty cheap.
Can you show us what kind of microscope can produce such a lovely picture, pretty please?
I've been meaning to that since December 2019, Pawel, but have never got round to it. I'll add it to my list now. It's a great microscope, but I have another, cheaper version that I use even more often. Sounds like the basis for a comparison video to me!
That faulty transistor : - LMN3
my dear Watson.
Very good, Chuck, I like it! But only if you speak with a lisp. Or should that be lithp (no offence to anyone, it's just a pun).
The range of that IR should be around the standard 10 meters (30 feet), right Ralph? You commented about it being at the back of your workbench which would, I assume, be less than a meter so definitely should operate at that distance.
The distance is indeed about 1m but I can point it in the opposite direction and it _still_works. Hang on, let me test it further right now... right, I can get 5m+ range which is the furthest I can move from this workbench (and that;s standing outside). Pretty good!
@@RalphBacon Yeah, that's pretty good! I'm thinking maybe it will work for my lighting project that we emailed about a few months ago.
Do they have 9 volts AC for running it from a distance or something? Like door bells use 24v ac for distances? Seems a lot harder to source than 5/9/12 volts DC.. 24volts AC and 120v AC is the only thing normal houses have somewhere.
It seems unlikely that there would be long runs for a volume control. It probably was specified as AC as it was available in the original design from the HiFi amplifier's mains transformer. I used 9v DC and it worked fine, and 5v connected directly to the 5V pin on that connector would be ideal. The Arduino has such a voltage readily available, hurrah!
Why is there 8 inputs and 8 outputs?
Should it not be 4? Right + & - and Left + & -
I'm sure the video shows the connections I use: nearest to the spindle, left-hand side, LOUT, GND, ROUT and on the right-hand side, RIN, GND, LIN (marks under the board). The others are not connected up, probably for a dual pot or something.
Double pot.
u can try pt 2258 ic for volume control
Interesting chip. I'm not sure why they insist on sending TWO volume bytes, one for units dB and one for tens dB. I wonder if you can send 2dB followed by 0dB for the tens of dB?
@@RalphBacon i dont know. Tda series volume control chip is same like this chip too. İ dont remember name tda7313 maybe 7303...
Maybe precision maybe easy algoritym... Must be work on it. İ was played on 1 0- 20 years ago
Do spiders use Spiduino?
I like that! They get their expertise from _the web_ of course!
Ralph, I bought this device. I had to resolver something to make it work. But I only get volume at the very end of its travel. Aggravating. I disassembled the pot after unsoldering it from the pcb. There is a burnt spot on the wafer. From new. They put these things together with rejects, eh. So... I bought another one....same thing. What a rip off. Ok. So Ralph what does it take to get volume from one end to the other end of travel. Like a stereo. With just any pot. Not remote. Just work the volume right. Every one I ever make does that.
Your experiences differ greatly from mine, Keith. Mine worked just fine from Day 1. You are not passing DC current through the pot are you? Just low level audio signals?
9 volt AC, not easy to find, although dc to ac exist, battey packs (ups) for servers do just that, but have not seen smaller versions that deliver low voltage AC.
The spider got electrocuted, a real bug in the system !
OMG, Jyv, another insect-related pun, you guys really do have time on your hands! I think a stabilised DC power supply works as well, frankly, if a little wasteful as it is being rectified again. It's a cheaper option too.
@@RalphBacon you could bridge those rectifier diodes/system
Hello र
Sir
Hi Yogesh, I thought I saw you lurking here!
Board is now £12.64!!
Keep an eye on it, John, the price changes regularly and is on offer now and again. Or check out AliExpress as they have several variants of this board. Frankly, even for that price I think it's a great board!
@@RalphBacon In some respects I think we have the same mentality, "if it sounds like fun and the price is right, buy some; them find something to do with them!" lol
No knob? I keep telling you to get a 3d printer.
I nearly did about a year ago. One day I will, Andy, until then eBay came to my rescue!
Ralph I dont know why but your videos often have commercials that last 3 minutes or way more. I am sorry but I have to skips those. I really aim to leave the adds running. Just now I got a super long add for a pen! Anyway how is the spider doing? :P
Skip the ads as you see fit, Hans, I don't want you sitting through 3 tedious minutes for an item you don't want! I'm pretty sure Google considers it "watched" after the mandatory few seconds (I've no evidence but I figure they charge the advertiser at that point). Spider has not been seen again, probably escaped out of the window to search for the World Wide Web it's heard about.
What they call "relay control" must be for a speaker muting circuit.
I'm not so sure; the Word has it that it was for powering the entire system (to which this was connected) on and off. But you never know what ideas the manufacturers had...
@@RalphBacon Another possibility would be a soft-start circuit.
Yes, something to protect us from speaker thump on switch on. Good point.
@@goglu2 yep that's it... You can leave your device I standby, turn on soft start circuit with remote
Volume control board is cheaper than buying a separate Alps potmeter.
Assuming it is a genuine Alps pot, Eddy; I've checked it closely against the manufacturer's website and it is either a very good copy or genuine. I suspect it _is_ genuine and the boards are rejects (for the reasons I said in the video). Great board though, and in constant use here on my workbench, now I just need to box it up. Good to hear from you.