DCC Decoder Upgrade - Lifelike Budd RDC Canadian Pacific With Interior Lighting Install

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  • čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
  • This should be an awesome conversion, but fate may have different plans.
    Amazon: www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/...
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    You can contact me directly at scottrodsgarage@gmail.com
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Komentáře • 35

  • @tronmcconnell4465
    @tronmcconnell4465 Před 7 dny +2

    You may wish to consider the following idea: Instead of cutting short unused wires from the decoder harness (as you did with the green wire in this decoder install) I suggest you take the unused wire(s), coil them up neatly, and tack them down with a dab of hot glue. This "future proofs" the vehicle without making your future life potentially more difficult. As an electrical engineer, my rule has always been to never cut short a wire until you absolutely need to do so (I've been caught short (no pun intended) too many times by trying to be overly "neat").

  • @avlisk
    @avlisk Před 7 dny +1

    I rode on RDCs a lot in the 1950's and 60's. That flickering of the interior lights was quite a common thing on the B&M Budd Cars. You lucked into a "feature", not a problem!

  • @joeraderblackrockcentralrr

    Interesting use of the original board. Well done and explained your procedure very nicely

  • @vestafreyja
    @vestafreyja Před 7 dny

    The RDC Canadian Pacific reminds me of the Calgary to Edmonton Dayliner than ran between to the cities until the mid 1980's.
    Nice work on the lighting.

  • @tracksidemike
    @tracksidemike Před 7 dny

    Great job on the install Dave great share have a great rest of your day and weekend 😎🚂🫵

  • @user-uk8jr6zc9l
    @user-uk8jr6zc9l Před 8 dny +1

    Great install and video Dave. Jersey Bill

  • @monsvillerailways5736
    @monsvillerailways5736 Před 8 dny +1

    Interesting board on the original model Dave.
    Great work. 👍
    Happy modelling

  • @NotGavin
    @NotGavin Před 7 dny

    Fantastic install dave! the proto RDCs are always a nice piece of kit to have, looks even better with all of the new features!

  • @johna.dawson709
    @johna.dawson709 Před 7 dny

    what a great epic upgrade to the Budd passenger car.. well done Dave..

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 7 dny

      And thank you John for supplying the patient.

  • @johnedwards8194
    @johnedwards8194 Před 7 dny

    Good video Dave, and that circuit board helped in many ways, for the running lights I would have used 3 leged led lights 2 color. 👍

  • @darylhitchcock7680
    @darylhitchcock7680 Před 7 dny

    Very Nice interior lights, gonna need to put some figures in the car now..

  • @James89378
    @James89378 Před 7 dny +1

    Nice I like it

  • @peterwebster3076
    @peterwebster3076 Před 7 dny

    Nicely done dave

  • @michealbeltz9523
    @michealbeltz9523 Před 6 dny

    Love the video. Thank you my friend.

  • @jamesemerson3414
    @jamesemerson3414 Před 7 dny

    The other side of those cuts go to the motor leads. If you left the motor leads attached to the board, you could solder the decoder motor leads to the pads on the other side of the cuts. I also agree that using the cutoff wheel is the best way as I have wired many of those Proto RDCs.

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 7 dny

      I thought about that, but wasn't happy with all those diodes etc.

  • @w.rustylane5650
    @w.rustylane5650 Před 7 dny

    Those LED strips have a sticky, adhesive backing, just peel off the protective strip and they will stick, at least mine do. The ones I have just using the backing have never let go. Just cut the foil on the circuit board. Then put a VOM across the terminals on the ohms mode to see if it is truly cut. Looks like you've got room enough for a cap & mini full wave bridge rectifier. I don't do DCC but I would think there would be specification sheet on any decoder on the market. Maybe you should have watched some other modeler install a decoder with a keep alive circuit. At least that's what I'd do first. Cheers from eastern TN

  • @erichelm4339
    @erichelm4339 Před 7 dny

    The motor connection can be on the circuit board also, you don't need a floating splice.

  • @smccoy5114
    @smccoy5114 Před 7 dny

    I suspect the keep alive cable you added won’t help the way you hoped. The keep alive typically goes across the track pickups after the bridge rectifier on the decoder. That’s why there is the plug.

  • @colinframe7095
    @colinframe7095 Před 8 dny +1

    Dremel tool with cutting disk makes short work of copper traces.

  • @warrendearman4013
    @warrendearman4013 Před 6 dny

    need folk in the car, got lighting lets see people

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 6 dny

      We will be painting people on tonight's stream.

  • @Pinboy50
    @Pinboy50 Před 7 dny

    I have both H.O. and n scale model railroad stuff.

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 7 dny

      Do you have layouts for both, or are they combined?

    • @Pinboy50
      @Pinboy50 Před 7 dny

      @@ScottRails no but I have the track, engines, and rolling stock. The apartment I am living in is not quite big enough. Hopefully when my mom and I move I will have enough space.

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 7 dny

      @@Pinboy50 There's always the option to have a fold down layout, but you wouldn't have much room for buildings etc.

  • @Faresplease
    @Faresplease Před 7 dny +1

    Nicely done !!! What is a "123 block" ?

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 7 dny

      1" by 2" by 3" metal block. Very handy for mini construction, and they can be bolted together to create right angles etc. I just use them as weights, hahaha

    • @Faresplease
      @Faresplease Před 7 dny +1

      @@ScottRails Never saw them before ... and I've been around for many years lol

  • @dirkstrains
    @dirkstrains Před 7 dny

    Passengers?

    • @ScottRails
      @ScottRails  Před 7 dny +1

      I think we will be painting passengers on Sunday's stream.