Getting the DMM-Tech 1000 watt servo motor installed, tuned, and run in on the DM2800 retrofit. Project starts here: czcams.com/video/A_7Ju2FRuYY/video.html
Another awesome video with lots of hard work. Feels like it’s just a matter of time before we start to see the chips flying. Hope you’re thoroughly enjoying this project as much as your viewers are!
Awesome video: small point, if your doing inertial ratios friction does not matter. but all the rotating mass does. So drive pulley, driven pulley, belt, spindle , tooling (include largest diameter cutter, aka facing tool) and gearing ratio will multiply the driven component as you showed. So gearing down (loses rpm obviously) could give better inertial ratio. I think you probably want 5:1 or lower for best performance. Thanks for including details of your process :)
The reduction would absolutely work, but the goal here is to lose as little functionality as possible when compared to the original setup. My main goal would be to do 10k rpm with a 5/32" tool for aluminum. To that end, I included a tool holder when I was weighing the spindle. I think that is going to work- obviously for heavier work with larger cutters I will need to use a lower range and slower speeds. Thanks so much for watching!
LOL Actually, it's not intentional most of these videos are recorded over the course of a week or two. A lot of times I actually try to remember what shirt I had on so that I can keep it the same.
@@compassprecision I don't necessarily mind the change of clothes.. It is a visual clue that time has passed since the last clip- But if the clothing keeps going back in forth in what should be the same time frame, then yeah- that is distracting.. or funny..
I have a G0704 clone that I bought the same 750w DMM motor as you a few years ago. I have NEVER been able to get it working properly and have put the project on the backburner many times because of it. The tuning never seemed to work properly (stalling, the RPM never being accurate, alarms, etc.) and I always chalked it up to not being able to be tuned correctly since you can't really simulate the load of cutting material without actually doing it. I'm now wondering if the whole time it's been the same intertia mismatch issue as you had. I've always used a 1:1 pulley ratio though so I'm not sure. All I know is that the whole ordeal has been extremely frustrating lol. Recently I've been looking into ebay AC servos/drive combos. They can be had for much cheaper than the DMM servos but I fear the tuning capability and documentation will be little to none compared to DMM's.
I agree with you that the varying loads do present a tuning issue. I haven't really worked enough with this yet to prove it is going to perform like I want it to but I remain hopeful. I work with Yaskawa servo drives every day, so I'm used to a system with a lot more tuning options than the DMM drive has. It is a very simplified system compared to more "industrial" options. I fear you would be giving up even more with some of the ebay drives you mention.
@@SteelCogsFor my beloved future G0704 users who may come along and see this. I use DMM 750W Nema 34 with DYN4 drives on all 3 axes of a G0704 with direct drive and have had perfect reliability for years. Rapids are fast (250 IPM) and overall have been very happy with the 750W on all axes. Note that the ways on the G0704 are marginal for the 400W Nema 23, and would not recommend them with direct drive. I did need to engage DMM support for wiring the Z-axis brake, and they were amazing. I paid full retail for all DMM hardware, and have no bias, just wanted to share my experience with DMM servos on the G0704.
Your videos on the DDM Tech motor couldn't be more timely. I have an converted Grizzly G0463 (Sieg X3) that I'm looking to upgrade the spindle motor. The 1100W motor is looking interesting. What's the weight difference between the 750w and the 1100w motors?
I wish I could answer your question but I didn't take the time to weigh it when I swapped it out. It stands to reason that it is going to have more copper in it and will weigh more but I don't know by how much. Hope you continue to find some value here.
Great video! I keep contemplating switching a 750W to a 1kW. Sorry if you already know all this... You used the moment of inertia equation for a solid cylinder. Using the hollow cylinder equation would reduce the value a little. Partitioning the spindle into several hollow cylinders and adding their moments of inertia would be closer. Must be careful using arithmetic mean of the radius because the radius is squared in the inertia calculation. I have the PM25 mill and came up with 7.2 kg*cm^2, and if I remember right with a TTS holder and 3", 1/2" diam end mill. I could be way off though.
I was not aware of the other equation, I was just using the equation that DMM provided. But truthfully, I'm not sure how hollow it really is until you account for the stack of Belleville washers and draw bar it would seem all but solid. As it turned out, the fault that I was chasing (faulting out when stopping) turned out to be an issue with the way Centroid controls the shutdown cycle. The DYN4 does not like having the motor enable signal removed until the motor comes to a stop. Modifying the shutdown cycle fixed that problem and probably would have eliminated the need to jump to 1kW- But I don't regret that move. Thanks for watching! I believe I binged all your videos on the subject when I was researching this project.
@@PeteRondeau Good point about the draw bar. How did you average the radius? Sorry to care about the details, I like math. Thanks for explaining the enable problem, that probably would have bitten me. I'm getting back into the shop, need to do other spindle repairs, and will upgrade the motor size. Was thinking of returning to the micro-v belt to have pulley ratios and use a second spindle for aluminum. The never done project :)
Oh.. the radius.. Yeah I forgot about that exercise.. I had the spindle out of the machine so I physically measured all of the various diameter changes and recorded the height and diameter of each section. I'm looking at the drawing I did and I don't really remember.. I think I turned it into a volume calculation and then after I had the total volume of the cylinder, backed out the overall height and ended up with the average radius.
Sorry for bothering you again. But how is it going with 1kW spindle motor? Is it so that it might not be a good one to use as spindle motor? I read in the comments it could have trouble with the tuning and it does not have as much tuning capabilities as more expensive ones. What driver does it use? Maybe it could be tested with another driver that is better?
No bother at all, It's actually going pretty well. The main tuning issue I was fighting turned out not to really be a tuning issue at all but more of a quirk that had an easy work around. I still haven't tried hammering it with a huge load, but even with the mismatch of the high-speed spindle range it seems to work well. I hope to have a video out tomorrow covering this info.
I’m still working on that myself but it seems to work best with very little gain. The bigger issue I have is overloading when shutting it off. That is where most of my current attention is. I’ll have more updates coming up.
Well.. That's a good question, it never really occurred to me. I was just reading it like a formula and didn't recognize it as square centimeters. Thanks for enlightening me!
Did DMM send you an acorn rev4 spindle wiring diagram or are you going off of their acorn rev3 diagram Pete? I started wiring mine yesterday only to discover I have outdated diagrams lol.
I just checked and the diagram I have does say R3. Truthfully I hadn't given it much thought. I just looked at the diagram from a functional standpoint and used the appropriate relay outputs when wiring.
@@PeteRondeau Thanks for getting me thinking back on track again, I went back to rewatch all your electrical videos too and re-found the "wiring complete" one. This is my first CNC anything project but it's making sense... the output signals on the acorn in revision 4 are now used to control the included relay board, and if I'm looking at it right the middle terminal coming out of each relay is the output signal? So it looks like I'll just pick 2 of those for direction and enable signals, and everything else will remain the same.
The relay gives you the advantage of having both a normally open and normally closed contact. A quick switch to the opposite terminal can invert a signal to match what any given peripheral might need. And, you can switch any sort of voltage that might be required- 5volts, 24volts, sinking, sourcing- whatever you might need.
@@PeteRondeau Ok, so I guess all the output signal really required by the DYN4 drive is a way to turn 5 volts on and off? Looking at the label on the relays themselves selves it appears like it is a 5-volt output signal that activates them? A relay on or conversely off will determine the motor direction and the second relay on/off will control the enable signal that goes to the motor. This is my first time using relays so hopefully, I have the right concept down.
Sounds like you are on the correct track. The relay is just an automated switch, any mention of 5 volts on the board would be indicating the coil voltage of the relay that Acorn is sending out to turn it on. One thing to note is that the different terminals of the DYN4 have different voltage requirements. The enable pin (#15) can take a 24 volt input directly, while the direction pins (10 & 22) are expecting a 5 volt signal. On the drawing supplied by DMM they are showing going through a 2K ohm resistor to divide the voltage down going to the optocoupler internal to the DYN4. In both cases though you are going to be switching the negative or ground side of your power supply (depending on what terminology you prefer). You need a negative (24v gnd) wire going into the relay.. I typically would connect it to the "Common" terminal (the center terminal on each 3 pin connector), then take my output from the "NO" terminal.
This motor is not listed on their website, it is basically a 1kw version of their 750watt motor that can go to 5000rpm. the part number is 86H-DHT-A6MK1
@@PeteRondeau Interesting, I think I will do the same to my 2800, I found my original servo drive isn't compatible with acorn control. I gasp a little when you started hitting your spindle with a mallet lol. Is that top press fitting with the 45 deg 5mm hydraulic oil hole the only thing holding the spindle in place after the pulley retention nut comes off? I need to take my spindle apart to regrind the BT30 taper and have been scratching my head about it for a couple days now. I don't have an oil injector to remove the spindle but I do have a press if all it is is a simple press fit.
Well, keep in mind that the jury is still out whether the motor is up to the task. Yes, that top ring is really all that is holding the spindle in place. I suspect you could screw a grease fitting in there and use a grease gun to push it apart. The first time I took it apart the head was off the machine so I just put it on the arbor press and pushed it out.
@@PeteRondeau Thanks Pete, I guess it just looks and feels like a tighter fit than what a grease gun is capable of producing. It's worth a shot to experiment with, I should have a few grease zerks with 5mm thread I can test. Now that I've been looking there's a handful of CZcamsrs using DMM servos as spindle drives I've seen. I haven't yet dove deep enough in my search to see if there are any issues over time. I kind of wonder how DMM servos being essentially cheap Chinese products will perform under max rated RPM and load over a very long CNC program.
Getting the DMM-Tech 1000 watt servo motor installed, tuned, and run in on the DM2800 retrofit.
Project starts here: czcams.com/video/A_7Ju2FRuYY/video.html
Another awesome video with lots of hard work. Feels like it’s just a matter of time before we start to see the chips flying. Hope you’re thoroughly enjoying this project as much as your viewers are!
Thanks Justin, I'm really going to be pushing to have a working machine for next week's anniversary of the beginning of this project!
Awesome video: small point, if your doing inertial ratios friction does not matter. but all the rotating mass does. So drive pulley, driven pulley, belt, spindle , tooling (include largest diameter cutter, aka facing tool) and gearing ratio will multiply the driven component as you showed. So gearing down (loses rpm obviously) could give better inertial ratio. I think you probably want 5:1 or lower for best performance. Thanks for including details of your process :)
The reduction would absolutely work, but the goal here is to lose as little functionality as possible when compared to the original setup. My main goal would be to do 10k rpm with a 5/32" tool for aluminum. To that end, I included a tool holder when I was weighing the spindle. I think that is going to work- obviously for heavier work with larger cutters I will need to use a lower range and slower speeds. Thanks so much for watching!
another great video Pete, your presentation and camera work is top notch!
Thank you Francisco, I really appreciate you saying that. Thanks for watching!
Great info. Enjoy your videos a lot. The fact that you change shirts throughout your videos also makes me laugh 😂
LOL Actually, it's not intentional most of these videos are recorded over the course of a week or two. A lot of times I actually try to remember what shirt I had on so that I can keep it the same.
Pete Rondeau lol that makes sense. I try to make sure the people in our videos are wearing the same stuff too. Just less distracting.
@@compassprecision I don't necessarily mind the change of clothes.. It is a visual clue that time has passed since the last clip- But if the clothing keeps going back in forth in what should be the same time frame, then yeah- that is distracting.. or funny..
Fantastic Job!! Thank you for sharing
Well done sir. Looking forward to my spindle drive on my lathe retrofit. I'd like to see how you're wiring looks for the spindle.
Thanks so much. I'm getting all that together, hopefully for the next video. Thanks for following along with this project!
I have a G0704 clone that I bought the same 750w DMM motor as you a few years ago. I have NEVER been able to get it working properly and have put the project on the backburner many times because of it. The tuning never seemed to work properly (stalling, the RPM never being accurate, alarms, etc.) and I always chalked it up to not being able to be tuned correctly since you can't really simulate the load of cutting material without actually doing it.
I'm now wondering if the whole time it's been the same intertia mismatch issue as you had. I've always used a 1:1 pulley ratio though so I'm not sure. All I know is that the whole ordeal has been extremely frustrating lol.
Recently I've been looking into ebay AC servos/drive combos. They can be had for much cheaper than the DMM servos but I fear the tuning capability and documentation will be little to none compared to DMM's.
I agree with you that the varying loads do present a tuning issue. I haven't really worked enough with this yet to prove it is going to perform like I want it to but I remain hopeful. I work with Yaskawa servo drives every day, so I'm used to a system with a lot more tuning options than the DMM drive has. It is a very simplified system compared to more "industrial" options. I fear you would be giving up even more with some of the ebay drives you mention.
@@PeteRondeau That's what I also fear. I guess I'll just wait and see and maybe continue to scout out other options.
@@SteelCogsFor my beloved future G0704 users who may come along and see this. I use DMM 750W Nema 34 with DYN4 drives on all 3 axes of a G0704 with direct drive and have had perfect reliability for years. Rapids are fast (250 IPM) and overall have been very happy with the 750W on all axes. Note that the ways on the G0704 are marginal for the 400W Nema 23, and would not recommend them with direct drive. I did need to engage DMM support for wiring the Z-axis brake, and they were amazing. I paid full retail for all DMM hardware, and have no bias, just wanted to share my experience with DMM servos on the G0704.
Your videos on the DDM Tech motor couldn't be more timely. I have an converted Grizzly G0463 (Sieg X3) that I'm looking to upgrade the spindle motor. The 1100W motor is looking interesting.
What's the weight difference between the 750w and the 1100w motors?
I wish I could answer your question but I didn't take the time to weigh it when I swapped it out. It stands to reason that it is going to have more copper in it and will weigh more but I don't know by how much. Hope you continue to find some value here.
Great video! I keep contemplating switching a 750W to a 1kW. Sorry if you already know all this... You used the moment of inertia equation for a solid cylinder. Using the hollow cylinder equation would reduce the value a little. Partitioning the spindle into several hollow cylinders and adding their moments of inertia would be closer. Must be careful using arithmetic mean of the radius because the radius is squared in the inertia calculation. I have the PM25 mill and came up with 7.2 kg*cm^2, and if I remember right with a TTS holder and 3", 1/2" diam end mill. I could be way off though.
I was not aware of the other equation, I was just using the equation that DMM provided. But truthfully, I'm not sure how hollow it really is until you account for the stack of Belleville washers and draw bar it would seem all but solid. As it turned out, the fault that I was chasing (faulting out when stopping) turned out to be an issue with the way Centroid controls the shutdown cycle. The DYN4 does not like having the motor enable signal removed until the motor comes to a stop. Modifying the shutdown cycle fixed that problem and probably would have eliminated the need to jump to 1kW- But I don't regret that move. Thanks for watching! I believe I binged all your videos on the subject when I was researching this project.
@@PeteRondeau Good point about the draw bar. How did you average the radius? Sorry to care about the details, I like math. Thanks for explaining the enable problem, that probably would have bitten me. I'm getting back into the shop, need to do other spindle repairs, and will upgrade the motor size. Was thinking of returning to the micro-v belt to have pulley ratios and use a second spindle for aluminum. The never done project :)
Oh.. the radius.. Yeah I forgot about that exercise.. I had the spindle out of the machine so I physically measured all of the various diameter changes and recorded the height and diameter of each section. I'm looking at the drawing I did and I don't really remember.. I think I turned it into a volume calculation and then after I had the total volume of the cylinder, backed out the overall height and ended up with the average radius.
Sorry for bothering you again. But how is it going with 1kW spindle motor? Is it so that it might not be a good one to use as spindle motor? I read in the comments it could have trouble with the tuning and it does not have as much tuning capabilities as more expensive ones. What driver does it use? Maybe it could be tested with another driver that is better?
No bother at all, It's actually going pretty well. The main tuning issue I was fighting turned out not to really be a tuning issue at all but more of a quirk that had an easy work around. I still haven't tried hammering it with a huge load, but even with the mismatch of the high-speed spindle range it seems to work well. I hope to have a video out tomorrow covering this info.
Salut professeur
Combien de poissons de motor servo 1000w
Safait combien de kilogrammes a lever
Merci de l'air mon message
Superb experience 🤜🤛👏🎉
Do you have any tips on tuning the motor? I have a DMM 1kW motor as well and I cant get it to run smoothly across the entire RPM range.
I’m still working on that myself but it seems to work best with very little gain. The bigger issue I have is overloading when shutting it off. That is where most of my current attention is. I’ll have more updates coming up.
How is it going. Still bad with tuning?
I'll be installing the 1kw as well. I've been dealing with Stephen in a very similar fashion to your email string 😆
What kind of machine will you be putting it in?
@@PeteRondeau otmt/sieg/grizzly super x3
Be sure to put up a video, I'm curious to see other adaptations and the results.
@@PeteRondeau I'm documenting every step, sir 👌👌
@@TheFeralEngineer Excellent, I will be sure to watch!
Wonder why many Americans say "centimeters squared" when they also say "square inch" and the ^2 is in the same place for both of them. =)
Well.. That's a good question, it never really occurred to me. I was just reading it like a formula and didn't recognize it as square centimeters. Thanks for enlightening me!
@@PeteRondeau I heard it the first time when I was in fifth grade at was in LA School that time (in Sweden now). Great build anyway.
Did DMM send you an acorn rev4 spindle wiring diagram or are you going off of their acorn rev3 diagram Pete? I started wiring mine yesterday only to discover I have outdated diagrams lol.
I just checked and the diagram I have does say R3. Truthfully I hadn't given it much thought. I just looked at the diagram from a functional standpoint and used the appropriate relay outputs when wiring.
@@PeteRondeau Thanks for getting me thinking back on track again, I went back to rewatch all your electrical videos too and re-found the "wiring complete" one. This is my first CNC anything project but it's making sense... the output signals on the acorn in revision 4 are now used to control the included relay board, and if I'm looking at it right the middle terminal coming out of each relay is the output signal? So it looks like I'll just pick 2 of those for direction and enable signals, and everything else will remain the same.
The relay gives you the advantage of having both a normally open and normally closed contact. A quick switch to the opposite terminal can invert a signal to match what any given peripheral might need. And, you can switch any sort of voltage that might be required- 5volts, 24volts, sinking, sourcing- whatever you might need.
@@PeteRondeau Ok, so I guess all the output signal really required by the DYN4 drive is a way to turn 5 volts on and off? Looking at the label on the relays themselves selves it appears like it is a 5-volt output signal that activates them?
A relay on or conversely off will determine the motor direction and the second relay on/off will control the enable signal that goes to the motor. This is my first time using relays so hopefully, I have the right concept down.
Sounds like you are on the correct track. The relay is just an automated switch, any mention of 5 volts on the board would be indicating the coil voltage of the relay that Acorn is sending out to turn it on. One thing to note is that the different terminals of the DYN4 have different voltage requirements. The enable pin (#15) can take a 24 volt input directly, while the direction pins (10 & 22) are expecting a 5 volt signal. On the drawing supplied by DMM they are showing going through a 2K ohm resistor to divide the voltage down going to the optocoupler internal to the DYN4. In both cases though you are going to be switching the negative or ground side of your power supply (depending on what terminology you prefer). You need a negative (24v gnd) wire going into the relay.. I typically would connect it to the "Common" terminal (the center terminal on each 3 pin connector), then take my output from the "NO" terminal.
Hi. Is this a 5000rpm 1kW DMM DYN4 series motor? The only 1kW motor I can find on the DMM web, is a 3000rpm max speed?
Thanks for the video
This motor is not listed on their website, it is basically a 1kw version of their 750watt motor that can go to 5000rpm. the part number is 86H-DHT-A6MK1
@@PeteRondeau I'm looking into ordering your setup, how did you? Do I just need to call. Thanks for all :)
I like and I subscribe
Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed it.
Does this new motor have the same RPM as the 0.75kw motor too? Looking at DMM's website everything 1kw and above is half the RPM
Yes, the particular motor preserves the 5k rpm rating of the 750watt motor.
@@PeteRondeau Interesting, I think I will do the same to my 2800, I found my original servo drive isn't compatible with acorn control. I gasp a little when you started hitting your spindle with a mallet lol. Is that top press fitting with the 45 deg 5mm hydraulic oil hole the only thing holding the spindle in place after the pulley retention nut comes off? I need to take my spindle apart to regrind the BT30 taper and have been scratching my head about it for a couple days now. I don't have an oil injector to remove the spindle but I do have a press if all it is is a simple press fit.
Well, keep in mind that the jury is still out whether the motor is up to the task. Yes, that top ring is really all that is holding the spindle in place. I suspect you could screw a grease fitting in there and use a grease gun to push it apart. The first time I took it apart the head was off the machine so I just put it on the arbor press and pushed it out.
@@PeteRondeau Thanks Pete, I guess it just looks and feels like a tighter fit than what a grease gun is capable of producing. It's worth a shot to experiment with, I should have a few grease zerks with 5mm thread I can test. Now that I've been looking there's a handful of CZcamsrs using DMM servos as spindle drives I've seen. I haven't yet dove deep enough in my search to see if there are any issues over time. I kind of wonder how DMM servos being essentially cheap Chinese products will perform under max rated RPM and load over a very long CNC program.