Why Is My Engine Knocking? - Explained
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- čas přidán 21. 09. 2022
- I get a lot of questions about an engine knock. So I made this video to explain.
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If you have any questions or I missed something, comment below and I’ll answer and try to help you out
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⚠️Disclaimer:
The videos on Motorcarnut channel are posted with informational purpose only.
Information posted in this video does not guarantee any particular result. Use this information provided in the video with caution and at your own risk. It is the responsibility of the viewer to take this risk.
Motorcarnut is not responsible or liable for property damage, any loss damage, or injury related to or resulted from information posted in this video. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Explained a lot
Thanks
You are welcome! Thank you
Thank you for the amazing video , i'm working on my jeep jk 2008 and learned a lot from you plus with your help my AC is working perfectly . I do need some help again . what connecting rod bearing brand do you recommend ? i'm changing it next.
Thanks man, really appreciate it. When dealing with serious internal components I like to use factory Mopar OEM, however I’ve used on many occasions the brand Sealed Power with no problems at all. Also for the JK another great brand is Crown Automotive. My choice is Mopar then Crown Automotive and Sealed Power in that order.
Sir thank you for your videos I have a 2014 Kia Soul motor is bad does have a knocking does sound like a rod should I just get a short block or long block or rebuilt the existing one long block is probably not available dealers hang on to those thank you
I would rebuild the one you have. It's probably just the crankshaft and one rod that would have to be replaced with rod and main bearings.
I have a 350z that recently started started a muffled knocking from under the car but only while idling or low rpm. The other day it blew out a cloud of white smoke from the exhaust while accelerating onto the freeway, but no smoke since. What can I start looking at?
Hard to tell what you’re hearing, to diagnose
thanks for the awesome content. quick question, can you use bimmerlink to diagnose engine problems when you get a drive train malfunction on the dash instead of an expensive scan too?
I haven't used that tool, but I assume it's a code reader and maybe a little more. But I doubt it is bidirectional or reset adaptions.
@@Motorcarnut really appreciate your reply. thanks! love your content
Thank you, I really appreciate that
hi. I have a bmw f30 328i. I'm getting error codes. P0012, p0015, P0172
any idea what parts needs to be changed?
Those are valve timing issues. Car has to be connected to scan tool to see what’s going on. Maybe your timing jumped.
@@Motorcarnut thanks for the reply. I'm also getting codes 130308, 120408, 133B04, 133E10, 130108.
is it possible the valve tronic motor not working
That seems like valve timing not necessarily the valvetronic system. Your problem could all be related to a jumped timing chain.
I've got (I think) knocking on my 2010 Rav4, but only between 1500-2000 rpm and under load. Above or below it's completely absent - to my untrained ears. Would damage like what you've shown here display this type of behavior or would knocking occur at all rpms?
That does sound like the beginning of a rod knock. If you can make a video I can take a listen and let you know
@@Motorcarnut here's a video of the sound it makes accelerating from a stop czcams.com/users/shortseLdsqT6wG1M?feature=share
@@Motorcarnut here's an example showing the noise cut out when you get over 2000 rpm czcams.com/users/shorts8U_VCArWowQ?feature=share
@@Motorcarnut let me know if you're getting anything useful from those clips. I was thinking I could do something with the hood open, but I can't replicate the noise when I'm in park.
@@Motorcarnut for background (apology in advance for the novel)- I did have a significant oil leak, but didn't get the low oil indicator until maybe a mile or less from my destination. Sounded off probably 20 miles out. I thought maybe muffler at the time. Leak did happen after being on the hwy for about 2 hours.
I had a mechanic look at it. They fixed the leak filled it up. Thought the noise was just timing being off due to low oil. It did sound a lot better, so I drove it the 2.5 hours back home. Had my mechanic look at it. First thing they've tried is some kind of "oil/chemical flush" to try and clean out the system. That did seem to diminish the noise for the first 5 or so days, but I think it's getting worse again. Trying to educate myself on what it might be/decide if the car's worth saving.
I was refused an oil change because it was knocking. Why would that be?
Good question, maybe they feel the engine is ruined already and the oil change won't do anything? IDK, ask them
Thanks I have a mrk5 golf with 250k miles on it and I have just heard knocking in the engine
Thanks for the comment, but unfortunate that it has a knock
@@Motorcarnut Yeah I named the car Myles aswell haha he had a good run if I he's too expensive to fix
@@Motorcarnut Got it checked today and it was the clutch disintegrating they told me
Ok, well that doesn’t sound like a rod knock but good it’s cheaper to fix
Just have a silent kind of knock could it be engine knock
Don’t exactly know what you mean by that?
Like, imaginary maybe?