A big swell rolled into San Diego causing a few nightmare situations for surfers. Subscribe for more surf content Thanks for watching! I'm Brad Jacobson and I'll sea ya on the sand.
Definitely every surfer’s nightmare. The worst is taking giant sets on the head coming up, then seeing another set with some guy getting barreled by a 12 foot wave - while you’re sucking oxygen in the impact zone.
I still remember the cheers of derisive laughter as I took off from the peak body surfing the wedge my first time there. I figured I must be making some kind of mistake when I was taking off and heard all the hooting from the rocks, then I found out what was so funny.
Is the nightmare the pummelling you get, the hold down, the leash breaking or the fact that this is the millionth time you've been caught inside by the wave of the day? I have all of the above.
Not easy to forget a 2 wave hold down. One time so unlucky to just get eyes out of the water to be hit by a massive foam wall without time for a breath.
I love the concept of this video. It's like a Surfer's late night Monster Show... 🤣 Last year i was in Brittany, France... i got stuck in 6 to 8 foot waves but still managed to ride one and then came the 10 footers. I am a total kook, new to surfing and i didn't know what i was supposed to do when smack in the middle of the impact zone... The waves looked the same as these walls in the first half of the video. I got pounded..; and pounded and my only escape route was being spat out by the 8 foot shore break along with golf ball sized pebbles... I got scared for 10 months and heading back out there this week..... So there's my experience with this kind of stuff.
@@richardelliott8352 I shouldn't have been there but as a former skater i wasn't really thinking much about fear rather than curious what the difference between surfing and skateboarding would feel like. lol. But i know better now. I hope i get to understand that saying one day.
If it is any consolation...Jeremy Flores almost drowned at a Hossegor Pro contest. The Atlantic water is denser and what looks "Ok,same ol' " to Pacific surfers is actually dangerous and can get ya in a tight spot if you are unwary.
Excellent Commentary, I really appreciate you slowing down these videos and the Red Arrows are Awesome to point out the issues. You’re one of the only Videographers that gets this. Always love your videos. I’m an old surfer 🏄♂️ living on 50 acres of land up in Eugene Oregon now and you help me relive all my Orange County snd San Diego Surfing Days . Thanks 🙏and may God Bless you Brad.
Been there, felt my heart sinking. Impending doom and nothing nice up ahead. take a deep breath, abandon board, dive as deep down as possible lol. Still get sucked over and destroyed.
I feel you bro, happened to me before and the wave was so monsterous and powerful that it snapped my leashed and i was boardless. It was miracle by the lord that I made it back to shore. I almost drowned as well. The waves were big and heeavy that day with storng rip currents.
@@davidrivas6412nothing scarier in the world. 2009 at popoyo on a big day in Nica and I can’t believe I made it to shore. Leash and board snapped. Caught 5-6 missiles on my head and started blacking out because each one pushed me so deep down. Think about it every time I go out 15 years later and always will.
Good filming as always, and analysis of the traffic conditions, meaning crowd control, meaning snaky snakes. This type of guidance is valuable, as hopefully all surfers will begin to learn about the severe dangers involved, when you run over somebody. I've had my ankle broke, when the guy speared my foot and his nose of his board broke off, on my foot. And a guy lasered across my nose, gouging my nose of board, as he went screaming by. i was just trying to paddle over the wave. People collisions......... here's the point. The most dangerous thing in surfing is...... the surfboards. Secondary dangers are sharks, whales, rocks, reef, pollution.
Well okay but let me tell you you're doing it wrong. When you paddle out don't paddle out in front of the surfers riding in. If you do find yourself in a collision course paddle left or right clearly well in advance, or duck dive deep.
I quit surfing for 5 years after getting caught outside at K36 Mexico with a rouge set 25-30' waves ate me. I took in water in my lungs but didn't pass out. I was way out there too. Huge closed out monsters. Only 5 of them for the whole day. the rest were 6 foot.
Good commentary. I've experienced the same thing albeit on a much smaller scale. It highlights how insane someone like Nathan Florence is when you see him paddle out and push through/under macking surf like a hot knife through butter.
1979 Hurricane David. Day before, 6 of us headed out, only 3 of us made it outside, it was about 12 feet and super choppy. I remember my Natural Art surfboard vibrating from the speed of the drop in. Florida waves are usually pretty small. We stuck together and had to walk about 2 miles when we got out because of the drift. Good times. 2 days after, 6 feet and glassy. Best surf day of my life in Florida.
The Salt Foam from that 🌊 would be at least 2' feet tall from the surface! So you can't Breath right away! Until you get above the Foam. Or your Coughing Salt water! "Ouch" You only do that once!
First you walk forever, then you paddle forever, get caught inside forever, find a few barrels that feel like forever, get caught inside again for forever, then take the forever walk back up. And I live in north OC, so the drive to and from also takes forever. Worth every second
The guy sitting on the red board waiting is the smartest guy. I do that here in HI you sit try to zen out and relax knowing you are going to take a beating and conserve oxygen. Why rush and use precious air ? Also that technique will get you rolled more than a deep dive but it will also drag you in more and out of the crap so much if there is more behind it. More often than note anyways
If that's where I think it is in San Diego, that's a very common occurrence especially on a NW (not sure what swell direction is here). You think you're in the channel and well south of the peak.....only to have it shift and be right on top of you.
Sad I surfed Ca from 80 to 95 there was level of respect and burn somebody could end very bad so it was not prevalent as it is today. 100% of my surfing is not in CA
That's why you ALWAYS keep your eyes open underwater to see the whitewater and lull, up, GASP air divedivedive again in sets you get caught in. You'll survive that way.
Been there. 4 - 7m drives you to the bottom.. onto the bottom, but SD has a sandy bottom, so is a great place to learn as the turbulence hold you under at the bottom. You just have to learn to chill knowing that you may not be surfacing for over a minute when this happens. The biggest danger to avoid is going over in the waterfall (that grinds you and may send you down head first). One has to understand the Waterfall and where it is going down to, like on corral, if the waves are really big that waterfall is well into the suck zone and grinding the bottom.. where you don't want to be. And don't go out without a buddy that's capable, otherwise make friends and stay in communication ,(but that depends on the crowd out their)... yes, I've been surfing with the sharks also.
That happens to me at my local break 15-20 times over the 45 minutes it takes to paddle out and it's like that most of the winter. Where? Ocean Beach SF. Why? Not sure but deep down I must really hate something about myself. The water out there definitely hates me...
I think the guy at 3:08 totally snaked the guy further back. You can see he made the wave break sooner than it naturally would have. Man, I've been out in waves smaller than this but still relatively huge...for me anyway. I got a beatin' that I'll never forget. And that was over 50 years ago in Huntington Beach.
It’s just water. I was raised in SD and surfed Mex and N Shore HI. Ying and Yang of surfing. Like how the vid shows it’s not just ride, ride, ride. You gotta work. Fun on both sides of the coin. Paddle, ride.
It's not a nightmare. It's what you mentally and physically prepare for. If you're going into the big wave arena, you need to be ready, up top and with your fitness.
@3:00 that wave was absolutely makeable. The only reason the wave chandeliered was because the guy burning him pushed the wave down. Additionally, I'm assuming this is Blacks which tends to do well on periods over 15 seconds therefore I doubt people are getting double hold downs. Don't get me wrong, it is not fun being in the pit at blacks, but I think the camera angle and focus are tricking the perception of where the wave is a little bit.
3:04 dude that dropped in on surfer getting barreled make it section on him. fyi to everyone. ... that's Blacks Beach in SD personally when it's big and I'm caught inside, I just let the whitewash drag me inside. I dont' wanna be anywhere near the impact zone.
Is that Blacks? You learn after a big mistake... or two... that on a big day, don't take the first wave or even the second wave of a set... if you blow it.... hold your breath and try to relax.
The sheer amount of kooks in the line ups these days is ridiculous. I know this break & it’s an absolute 💩 show. Still a few hidden gems down there tho, for now…🙄
Yeah, it sucks (literally) when ya get stuck in the pit and just keep gettin shit mixed in destination fucked.. And I was never out in anything quite that big. Super salty water in every fuckin orifice. But that's why I gave up trying to surf and just stuck with skatin. Skate or die man!!......Or surf and drown dude!! 🤷♂😂
Neither of those guys at 0:51 we’re gonna make it under…homie just accepted his fate while the other guy figured he may as well try…both were good decisions 👍 the only thing I’m doing my best to do is staying calm and doing whatever to NOT break my leash Regardless, I can’t think of a worse / better feeling than surfing- sometimes in the same session
You never forget your best waves. But you always remember your worst wipe outs.
not true. I remember my best waves... all of them. but you are right..also remember the really bad beatings.
Definitely every surfer’s nightmare. The worst is taking giant sets on the head coming up, then seeing another set with some guy getting barreled by a 12 foot wave - while you’re sucking oxygen in the impact zone.
😂😂😂😂
Avoid the impact zone. Secret. Secret trick, don't tell anyone.
If you want to see someone get worked by a ten wave set, just watch me when I paddle out. People wait for me to paddle out.
You and i, brother!
I still remember the cheers of derisive laughter as I took off from the peak body surfing the wedge my first time there. I figured I must be making some kind of mistake when I was taking off and heard all the hooting from the rocks, then I found out what was so funny.
LOL Timing is everything!
You're not alone. Even though it feels like it when its happening....You're not alone
Haha for real 😂
Is the nightmare the pummelling you get, the hold down, the leash breaking or the fact that this is the millionth time you've been caught inside by the wave of the day? I have all of the above.
I think this was your best video. Big wave chaos is always fun. Thanks for sharing this!!
Heard the phrase "pure life-taking scariness." That's a bad thing. LOL.
Not easy to forget a 2 wave hold down. One time so unlucky to just get eyes out of the water to be hit by a massive foam wall without time for a breath.
Love these replay with narration videos, fun and I think original, Brad. Best wishes.
I love the concept of this video. It's like a Surfer's late night Monster Show... 🤣
Last year i was in Brittany, France... i got stuck in 6 to 8 foot waves but still managed to ride one and then came the 10 footers. I am a total kook, new to surfing and i didn't know what i was supposed to do when smack in the middle of the impact zone...
The waves looked the same as these walls in the first half of the video. I got pounded..; and pounded and my only escape route was being spat out by the 8 foot shore break along with golf ball sized pebbles... I got scared for 10 months and heading back out there this week..... So there's my experience with this kind of stuff.
if the ocean grants you friendship, you realize the truth in the old saying " if you are good enough, the waves come to you. "
@@richardelliott8352 I shouldn't have been there but as a former skater i wasn't really thinking much about fear rather than curious what the difference between surfing and skateboarding would feel like. lol. But i know better now. I hope i get to understand that saying one day.
If it is any consolation...Jeremy Flores almost drowned at a Hossegor Pro contest.
The Atlantic water is denser and what looks "Ok,same ol' " to Pacific surfers is actually dangerous and can get ya in a tight spot if you are unwary.
Excellent Commentary, I really appreciate you slowing down these videos and the Red Arrows are Awesome to point out the issues. You’re one of the only Videographers that gets this. Always love your videos.
I’m an old surfer 🏄♂️ living on 50 acres of land up in Eugene Oregon now and you help me relive all my Orange County snd San Diego Surfing Days . Thanks 🙏and may God Bless you Brad.
Been there, felt my heart sinking. Impending doom and nothing nice up ahead. take a deep breath, abandon board, dive as deep down as possible lol. Still get sucked over and destroyed.
I feel you bro, happened to me before and the wave was so monsterous and powerful that it snapped my leashed and i was boardless. It was miracle by the lord that I made it back to shore. I almost drowned as well. The waves were big and heeavy that day with storng rip currents.
@@davidrivas6412nothing scarier in the world. 2009 at popoyo on a big day in Nica and I can’t believe I made it to shore. Leash and board snapped. Caught 5-6 missiles on my head and started blacking out because each one pushed me so deep down. Think about it every time I go out 15 years later and always will.
@@Rodrigorodriguez20241 i can't imagine bro!!! Praise God you can live another day to ride another wave
love the recent amount of uploads brad keep em coming
Thank you for sharing what day and place this was. Sometimes when I watch your videos I’m like damn, did I miss a swell! Great work btw
Good filming as always, and analysis of the traffic conditions, meaning crowd control, meaning snaky snakes. This type of guidance is valuable, as hopefully all surfers will begin to learn about the severe dangers involved, when you run over somebody. I've had my ankle broke, when the guy speared my foot and his nose of his board broke off, on my foot. And a guy lasered across my nose, gouging my nose of board, as he went screaming by. i was just trying to paddle over the wave. People collisions......... here's the point. The most dangerous thing in surfing is...... the surfboards. Secondary dangers are sharks, whales, rocks, reef, pollution.
Well okay but let me tell you you're doing it wrong. When you paddle out don't paddle out in front of the surfers riding in. If you do find yourself in a collision course paddle left or right clearly well in advance, or duck dive deep.
I quit surfing for 5 years after getting caught outside at K36 Mexico with a rouge set 25-30' waves ate me. I took in water in my lungs but didn't pass out. I was way out there too. Huge closed out monsters. Only 5 of them for the whole day. the rest were 6 foot.
THANKS BRAD FOR GETTING YOUR CAMERA OUT THERE TO WATCH THESE GUYS GETTING WORKED 😆😆😆🤓👍👍🫡
Some things are private, Brad 😂
I’m feeling better about having to work today after watching this during lunch break!
Good commentary. I've experienced the same thing albeit on a much smaller scale. It highlights how insane someone like Nathan Florence is when you see him paddle out and push through/under macking surf like a hot knife through butter.
1979 Hurricane David. Day before, 6 of us headed out, only 3 of us made it outside, it was about 12 feet and super choppy. I remember my Natural Art surfboard vibrating from the speed of the drop in. Florida waves are usually pretty small. We stuck together and had to walk about 2 miles when we got out because of the drift. Good times. 2 days after, 6 feet and glassy. Best surf day of my life in Florida.
This video is amazing, thanksn for this content
When the wave breaks here, don't be there.
Gonna get drilled 😂
The Salt Foam from that 🌊 would be at least 2' feet tall from the surface! So you can't Breath right away! Until you get above the Foam. Or your Coughing Salt water! "Ouch" You only do that once!
Love watching these “surfers getting wrecked” vids
Surfing etiquette is dead.
Certainly at that spot.
Yeah when he saw the wave over the white wash. He's all like damn I'm in for a rude awakening!
First you walk forever, then you paddle forever, get caught inside forever, find a few barrels that feel like forever, get caught inside again for forever, then take the forever walk back up. And I live in north OC, so the drive to and from also takes forever. Worth every second
such a nice video!
The guy sitting on the red board waiting is the smartest guy. I do that here in HI you sit try to zen out and relax knowing you are going to take a beating and conserve oxygen. Why rush and use precious air ? Also that technique will get you rolled more than a deep dive but it will also drag you in more and out of the crap so much if there is more behind it. More often than note anyways
When your nose runs like a tap hours after a surf, you know you've been having fun😂.
If that's where I think it is in San Diego, that's a very common occurrence especially on a NW (not sure what swell direction is here). You think you're in the channel and well south of the peak.....only to have it shift and be right on top of you.
I was thinking it might be Blacks beach because it gets pretty big out there.
Sad I surfed Ca from 80 to 95 there was level of respect and burn somebody could end very bad so it was not prevalent as it is today. 100% of my surfing is not in CA
Hi, folks. Is this Blacks? There are only a few waves in SD (or the entire coast, for that matter) that pack this much bunch. Thanks, Brad!
See Brad you get more comments when you don’t name the spots! Real surfers don’t name the spots on the internet, there is no need.
@therealbeans anyone can study the wave and see how it breaks to know which break it is
@@Sp4wnK3lla then why ask or announce it on the internet is the point I’m making.
@therealbeans Oh brother. You're a real stud, a REAL surfer. May I touch the hem of your garment?
This is definitely Tourmaline, I've seen it on 12 ft days and oh boy does it barrel
That's why you ALWAYS keep your eyes open underwater to see the whitewater and lull, up, GASP air divedivedive again in sets you get caught in. You'll survive that way.
Been in situations just like this and it is not fun. Call paying your dues so if you know you know.
Been there. 4 - 7m drives you to the bottom.. onto the bottom, but SD has a sandy bottom, so is a great place to learn as the turbulence hold you under at the bottom. You just have to learn to chill knowing that you may not be surfacing for over a minute when this happens. The biggest danger to avoid is going over in the waterfall (that grinds you and may send you down head first). One has to understand the Waterfall and where it is going down to, like on corral, if the waves are really big that waterfall is well into the suck zone and grinding the bottom.. where you don't want to be. And don't go out without a buddy that's capable, otherwise make friends and stay in communication ,(but that depends on the crowd out their)... yes, I've been surfing with the sharks also.
Sometimes it's best to just let the whitewater take you in rather than fight through the impact zone.
Add a snapped leash to that, it sucks...
Have you ever rated waves down the pch from like Venice to Malibu?
I used to wait for storms and big days like this in winter. About once a year Burleigh Heads Australia would get big 15-25ft. Love it
When Carol yeslled and Mike had to look for Greg AFTER THAT WIPEOUT. i said no way dude!
Been in that exact spot, at that spot many times!
The craziest thing about this video is the 50k views.
THE SOUNDS OF A SNAPPING LEASH IS LIKE "PING".......OH SHIT
Was that Hammerlands?
When was this?
Dive deep, open your eyes and relax. Once it goes over, pop up asap and repeat.
It does help if you can hold your breath for at least 2 min
As a surfer my nightmare is to not surf any single day anymore
That happens to me at my local break 15-20 times over the 45 minutes it takes to paddle out and it's like that most of the winter. Where? Ocean Beach SF. Why? Not sure but deep down I must really hate something about myself. The water out there definitely hates me...
it is up to you to make friends. things are always better with friends. even giant ones who operate beyond human understandings.
I think the guy at 3:08 totally snaked the guy further back. You can see he made the wave break sooner than it naturally would have. Man, I've been out in waves smaller than this but still relatively huge...for me anyway. I got a beatin' that I'll never forget. And that was over 50 years ago in Huntington Beach.
Brutal!)
It’s just water. I was raised in SD and surfed Mex and N Shore HI. Ying and Yang of surfing. Like how the vid shows it’s not just ride, ride, ride. You gotta work. Fun on both sides of the coin. Paddle, ride.
It's not a nightmare. It's what you mentally and physically prepare for. If you're going into the big wave arena, you need to be ready, up top and with your fitness.
bro, you are so funny!
Very melodramatic commentary
Where's your pool training Brad. Let's be out there next season!
Jesus those are some F’ing bombs.
i dont wanna watch these vids yet i have to watch them... fk...if its 6ft its scary for me...
Dude would have made it without the snowball.
Someone is a BALL LOVER….🤨
Not a surfer, but I enjoyed your video.
Come! Give it a try. It’ll be fun.
Just not on big days. 🤙
@3:00 that wave was absolutely makeable. The only reason the wave chandeliered was because the guy burning him pushed the wave down.
Additionally, I'm assuming this is Blacks which tends to do well on periods over 15 seconds therefore I doubt people are getting double hold downs. Don't get me wrong, it is not fun being in the pit at blacks, but I think the camera angle and focus are tricking the perception of where the wave is a little bit.
Funny on the last clip he wanted to be like look at how you hurt my precious line even though the wave is over what a crybaby
I almost died in 15 to 25 ft hurricane surf in Florida
There Just Dropping In Is there No Shame any more
Party waves happen, reactions matter. More so in big waves, dealing with death is hard enough already.
3:04 dude that dropped in on surfer getting barreled make it section on him.
fyi to everyone. ... that's Blacks Beach in SD
personally when it's big and I'm caught inside, I just let the whitewash drag me inside. I dont' wanna be anywhere near the impact zone.
We all been there.
He would of made o bottom turninstead of pulling in
Caught inside at Blacks is brutal.
Too hard to get out. Go to the pier
There's a bigger behind it
What a load of drivel
Get your serving of humble pie
Makeable.
Strand locals r all friends ....so.......
🤯
You gotta pay to play
3:35!🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪👌
You’re such a Barney
school
hahaha
Is that Blacks? You learn after a big mistake... or two... that on a big day, don't take the first wave or even the second wave of a set... if you blow it.... hold your breath and try to relax.
Stop pausing it
The sheer amount of kooks in the line ups these days is ridiculous. I know this break & it’s an absolute 💩 show. Still a few hidden gems down there tho, for now…🙄
Yeah, it sucks (literally) when ya get stuck in the pit and just keep gettin shit mixed in destination fucked.. And I was never out in anything quite that big. Super salty water in every fuckin orifice. But that's why I gave up trying to surf and just stuck with skatin. Skate or die man!!......Or surf and drown dude!! 🤷♂😂
He's jumpn of to botom
Uhh... This isn't really that big. 🤔
I’m from Humboldt. This is an average winter day
Neither of those guys at 0:51 we’re gonna make it under…homie just accepted his fate while the other guy figured he may as well try…both were good decisions 👍 the only thing I’m doing my best to do is staying calm and doing whatever to NOT break my leash
Regardless, I can’t think of a worse / better feeling than surfing- sometimes in the same session
I like bodysurfing cause it’s way easier to get under these