5.3 Ls crankcase venting
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- čas přidán 19. 01. 2020
- In this video I ordered up a -10 billet valve cap to help my big cam motor vent a little better and show you how I did it and why. Check out our website now live with product www.downformobbing.com
Below is a link to the parts used in the video:
AN10 Billet Valve Cap: amzn.to/3dxea9f
5/8 ID vent hose: amzn.to/2ZAqNrZ
3/8 ID vent to loop valve covers together: amzn.to/3pGjEkk
O-Ring silicone lubricant: amzn.to/3bnJTHj
XRP 90˚ push-on hose end AN10: shorturl.at/txyEY - Auta a dopravní prostředky
The sponge Bob line killed me!! This is a "real" video - we've all thrown parts, dropped parts and asked "why the F isn't this working?" Thanks for the video.
Right 😂
Great video I love ls motors am building a 6.0 with cam gapped piston rings for turbo I have a 72 nova can’t wait to feel it
That's going to rad!
I know this is an old vid. But i was wondering how the vent is working and if there is any oil leaking out the vent hose? I got the oil leak issue in my 05 5.3
Could this be possible but with out putting a tube on it and just put a filter instead
any reason this wouldn't work on a turbo 6.0?
What happens to the intake manifold where the pcv valve hose used to go in..?
plug it.
The best way is to vent via high up on the oil pan. Otherwise, oil vapors gushing up oil passages while oil is coming down is not a good thing.
I am retired and not familiar with the PCV on all “LS” engine family’s, but is the drivers side rocker cover tube a fixed oriface or an actual spring-loaded-valve inside? Just no longer serviceable? What year is that engine? Thanks! Interesting set up...for all lot of WOT action.
its fixed. no spring. This is a 2004 motor. It's a LM7
Did you just cap off the pcv valve then? Can I do this with a 2014 5.3l instead of the catch can I was considering? Wont it throw codes
Yup that stuff is just capped. You could do this but I am not 100% sure if it'll give you codes. I currently don't have any codes.
Question. I’m getting some blow by and oil is coming out of my dipstick and getting on my headers, causing bad smoke and possibly catch fire some day. Would this be a good fix you think?
The car I got this idea from was blowing the dipstick out when racing. They did this and the problem was fixed. So it my be worth the try!
Subscribed immediately that intro was so funny man 😂 I did infact just Google some shit lol
Welcome Saxy!
I just picked up a project turbo 4.8 Silverado. He doesn’t have the valve cover hookup up to anything, other videos hook it up to the vacuum on the intake, what’s the difference or better way to do it?
If you do that, you will vent oil into the intake. That is the factory way to hook it up. I did not do that in this video.
Do you have any issues with moisture or sludgy oil after doing this? I’ve been running an open crankcase vent like what you did for a month and have corrosion showing up on my dipstick and sludge buildup already! I live in the desert and don’t hardly get any humidity either and have never had an issue with open vents before even when I lived in the humid Midwest! I have pictures I can send, but do you have any idea why I would be seeing moisture like I am? TIA!
0 problems so far on my end. Sounds like you might have got water in the oil?
I'm in northern Michigan. During the winter I get a lot of moisture build up in my oil. Enough so that I had to change my oil every couple hundred miles. Lots of short trips is hard on oil. During the summer I do not have the moisture problem.
This is the result of a poorly functioning PCV setup. You need to be pulling vacuum on the crank case to evacuate the crankcase properly. The setup in this video is better than nothing, but still far from correct
Recently my oil consumption is getting higher, so you think this trick might solve the issue I’m having? (Chevy suburban 07)
Hard to say. Might have other problems going on?
Does the AN fitting need a screen, check valve, or special orifice vent to help maintain internal oil pressures?
Nope, at least not for my setup. The only other thing you can do that I am not is add a catch can.
How did this work out? Same thing I had in mind for my carbed ls but to a catch can instead of the dirt lol
Been running this for 3 years in the desert now.
Link to the valve cover an adapter?
rb.gy/dwhlpv
Just did something similar to this with my gen3 5.3 . Any revisions or gas that worked for u ?
What do you mean by revisions or gas?
Sorry I meant to say any revisions or has that worked for you ?
@@youtubeisfullofspam7068 I have not changed a thing since this video was made. This same setup has been ran on short course trucks for years!
First of awesome video ! My truck only leaks oil at WOT , can I run the first line only? From driver side to passenger side? Or do I have to run both lines?
Thank you! would want to vent it out of the case. You dont want that stuff to build up in your motor/intake. You can dump into a catch can.
I wanna stay away from the can for now .. So can I run it just the way you ran your setup? The crossover and the rear dump? After watching your video I ran out to my truck and knew right away where the oil leak was coming from , and it’s coming from the passenger side valve cover nipple/breather and running down the motor on back , 🤣 so go do found your video! Plz let me know!
@@Jd-gi3ku You can 100% run it like mine. Bigger the vent the better. We run all the go fast desert/dirt cars like this at my work with no problems!
Thank you sooo much!!!
@@DownForMobbingcan you just put a cap on the driver and passenger side and just run the vent only
Not running any vacuum at all on the case ?
nope!
What’d you do with the piece off the throttle body? Just curious as I may follow this setup for my Build
The two nipples coming out from under the throttle? I just capped them.
@@DownForMobbingthe nipple on the intake behind the throttle body at 0:39, I have a drive by cable tb and the nipple is on the throttle body rather than intake, my bad!
@@dylanharder3529 Just a plastic plug from the part store.
Could of used a catch can insted of dumping it out the back
Will this fix blowby on a gas 6.0 ?
It should. That's why I did this.
Is this like a catch can??
A catch can is something you would add in to catch the oil that vents out.
Same setup with adding turbo?
Not sure if it would be. That sounds awesome tho!
You can. It'll keep you from having to do a lot of enginerding to keep boost from pressurizing your crank case. You should probably run that vent to a catch can (the kind with a filter vent on top) instead of dumping it out the back though.
One thing I'd consider though, is that this is a passive system. Pulling a vacuum on the crank case can help rings seal. To do that you could pop a filter in the passenger side cover, then move the driver side hose from the intake to a catch can (the kind without a filter on top), and run a vacuum pump on the other side of the catch can. That will constantly pull vacuum on the crank case, and draw fresh air through the small filter on the clean side. That's probably your best bet for a turbo.
Why not just run a short hose with an ole school breather filter? All that hose seems excessive.
There is many ways to do it. Whatever works best for your setup. I’d just rather run it out the back and not deal with a catch can.
You can if you like the smell of blow by gasses, and don't mind changing that filter constantly because it got oil soaked. The better way would be to run it to a catch can with a built in filter. The best way would be to run a filter on one side, catch can without a filter - and run a vacuum pump on the catch can side.
Like the old road vent tube , my 51 Ford just uses Venturi vacuum to vent the crankcase to the ground . In the name of pollution the PCV system was invented to burn the offending fumes .👀
that’s not exactly why the system was used invented.
@david parkes >The original crankcase Vent was just that, a Vent. No Venturi, no vacuum no nothing. The pressure inside the crankcase is mostly blow by past the pistons, especially when cold. Old school technology had not reached at point to cast round pistons so they where egg-shaped. The wrist pin prevented movement side to side at that location but the piston expanded as the engine came up to temp. Even then & now, some pressure passes ring end gas, unburned fuel in cold spots caused raw fuel & vapor to reach the case, but burning a fossil fuel creates water. If the oil and internal block temp reached the boiling point of each, it is now vapor. Those two can be burned. Carbon, pressure from blow by all need removed. So, in theory, he is allowing the fresh air from the throttle body, just in front of the valve, to be pulled into the passengers side, thru the block, out the driver’s rear, into the intake. The same as new. Since they are racing, they expect more internal pressure so with the oil filler adaptor, is venting it out the back of the truck onto the ground.
ASE Master since 1978 - Retired
@@deankay4434 down draft tubes were on the very early vehicles..
Yes, you are right because I worked on them. Oil bath air cleaners and no oil filter. Many earlier engine had no oil pressure to the rod and crank Babbitt bearings. They bolted a scoop onto the rod cap. As it rotated up, they oil fell into a hole to feed the rod, hole in crank to main bearing. Lifter where drip oiled.
Have you worked on crankshafts with a large hole in the main & rods from front to rear all the way thru? V12 engine had frost plug caps driven in both sides the reduced weight by 90 pounds! P51 Mustang engines used in tractors. Most had a dry double disc plate clutch in front of a 10 disc wet clutch. Like those used in automatic transmissions.
You should put grease on those push lock fittings
I don't want my lines to slip off.