I do a lot of rework on original 1861/63 Springfields and 1852 Enfield rifle muskets. I feel your pain, Lol! I found patience and the judicious use of heat works. Big thing is to be prepared to walk away, calm down and let it sit for a while. Don't rush it. That's what I have to tell myself again and again.
I learned years ago that if you run across a Phillips head screw that has been stripped out is to take a Torx bit that is close to the same size and hammer it in and try it. This method has saved me from needing an Easy Out on more than one occasion!
I do not KNOW the name of the tip or tool, it is Canadian in heritage, still used in the electrical trade and industry. Looks like a flat screwdriver tip with a diamond type shape machined in the center (as a sparky I own some). I find I can drive them into damaged Philips with some success, like anything depending on damage and such, and maybe a slot cut to help.
Use valve lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver (Phillips head) and in the screw head. An impact driver or impact gun either shatters the screwdriver tip, or gets the screw out.
Another handy thing I was taught, was once the screw cracks loose, is the same for all threads actually, is to wind it back in a quarter of a turn or more for every turn out, to help clear the threads of rust and debris coming out and minimise the chances of it binding up again .
45 years in various types of shops but you taught me two things today! Never thought to peen back chewed up metal on a screw, always just dressed them down. The drill press trick was great as well! Ya got me heading into the new year smarter than I was. Thanks!
Kroil claims that it is "the oil that creeps." Last night I put can of it at the end of my work bench and when I came out there this morning, it had crept to the other end of the bench! Thanks for the good video, sir!
I know having the correct fitting screwdriver is so important but had never seen that method with a drill press before, thank you, I think it could be a game changer!!
"Kroil!" is AWSUM! I learned working around machinists! Once you go to "penetrating" oil Help IT Penetrate! Vibration, vibration, VIBRATION! some times a day or so penatration, and I found sometimes going a tiny bit "Tighter" helps come "Looser?" once or twice I have found reversed threads. I love the DRILL PRESS idea!! THIS is GOING into my Tool Idea Box! Got to say "Once in a While" an Impact driver comes out with a two-pound hammer. Just did most this on a stuck breach plug and vent liner, butt I ended with drilling the liner and easy outing, and patience with engineering tooling worked for the breach plug. I attack with the thoughts of "I will" only fix it or go down in flames trying, but get it done with respect and honor for the engineering and history, never give up, never give in.
In aviation maintenance, I use a "screw knocker" to remove tough screws. It's an attachment for a rivet gun. Try tapping the end of the screw driver, as you are turning it.
Excellent video, the other one I would add is use the tip of a soldering gun or iron to heat the screw up then drip in the Kroil or PB blaster. After it’s hot it will wick into the threads most of the time. I work on rusty cranes on piers so I feel this pain constantly.
best video I've ever seen. I have a model 1897 Remington Rolling Block with 3 stuck screws, and a stuck cross pin. Penetrating oil hasn't worked so far.
That's great. In the past when I have a stuck screw like that and I try the first two steps without any luck, I very gently use a small impact driver. Of course if that doesn't work its off to the mill for some drilling.
Heat and candle wax works well if the application can allow for a torch. Obviously not in this particular situation but something to keep in mind. The candle wax won't evaporate like oil when the flame is applied. Also for pin point heat a magnifying glass and the sun work very well.
I had a similar issue with a screw head that completely stripped. I attempted to use a screw extractor but all it did was take off more of the metal using a drill. Took it to a machinist friend that used the screw extractor, except that he hammered the extractor into the screw head (or what was left of it). He then used a vice grip to torque the screw extractor to remove the screw. Looks like you need the extra leverage provided by a torque arm with a slow and steady rocking force.
Your work is amazing. There can't be many guys on the entire planet with your skill set and knowledge of vintage firearms. I hope some young guys coming up can continue the tradition.
I also use Kroil which I learned about from a friend at work years ago. I had a stuck choke tube once on a model 1100 20 gauge. I put the barrel muzzle down in a small bucket, supported the receiver in my vice and poured Kroil down the barrel till I had a couple of inches in the bucket. Came back the next morning and removed the choke tube with no problem. I then poured the Kroil back in the can so I would have it for the next time I needed it to save my bacon.
Thanks. I gave up on a "keeper" screw for the stock screw of a Remington Model 11 shotgun that really needs restocked. That was long ago and stocks with forends were readily available. Not sure if I will try again, unless .....
They make a hand held screwdriver when hit on the steel barrel it torques the screw with a lot of power. Works on most cases in my experience. You twist the steel body and load the screwdriver so that the hammer blow is working to unload it and at the same time unscrew the screw. Not very expensive and you can get additional bits as neeeded. It was called a Torque ScrewDriver long before the electric impact drivers came on the scene and actually does a very different job as it applies more force in a controlled manner. I like your drill press method for things you can carry over and fit on the press table.
Hey Mark you did it again! Great video but, got a tip for you. Learned years ago in the home shop of my uncle whom was a 50 yr. master machinist with GE. In these situations, use as you did the large vise but first position the receiver/part in a vise with shorter jaws then clamp that whole assembly, turned 90 degrees into the large vise as you have there. Does three things, short height jaws, even if you mill a vise down yourself, gives access to small/smaller parts and adds mass to these components to resist passive movement from the torque input from the angular momentum your imparting with the press. Lastly it clamps the clamp! Meaning, it takes any movement out of the jaws that can allow slippage of parts. The cross clamping adds firmness to the acme threads or maybe cheaper vises. As I type this I see a possible additional benefit of resisting possible quill movement from flex or slop from worn or cheaper drill presses. Keep up the great videos!!!
Good video and valuable info. Kroil is the best penetrant I have used also. Sometimes an impact driver is useful, spend the extra money and get a snap on,the extra money will pay for itself in quality and results. God bless.
Cool Tip.. when a bing bang is coated with Cerakote I have also resourced to heating the screw with a soldering iron to avoid overheating the coating on the bing bang. 🤓😎
Kroil is my go to penetrating oil for any stuck screws. I’ve seen it work miracles on rust and gunk. It also works great on getting lead out of barrels. Another simply great video sir.
I bought a brand new 1858 Remington Never been able to completely tear it down. Screw under the trigger guard just is stubborn from the factory. Gonna give this a go. Wish me luck and thanks for posting!
Hello Mark, As always you provide priceless information to the viewers. The main problem with messed up screws is the use of the wrong screwdriver. I purchased a quality gunsmith set decades ago from Dixie Gun Works.I still use them today. Your drill press idea is fabulous. Besides Kayno, Kroil oil, I found an equal 50-50 mix of automatic transmission oil and acetone works well as a rust breaking solvent. But just mix a little as the acetone evaporates quickly. It worked well on a clean out screw in the breach block of my original 1863 Sharps carbine. After a few days of repeated soaking. As you said, patience is critical.
First off , I would have started off this DIY info vid with " never use a carpenters / woodworkers type of screwdriver to remove slot headed screws from any type of firearm or cutlery product , unless you mean to damage the screw head !!! Anyone who has ever had to locate , buy & have shipped , a tinny replacement screw for one of their firearms , knows how troubling & costly these items can be !!! The next thing I would have advised the watchers of this type of video is , to automatically & with great haste , to invest in a great set of gunsmiths' screwdrivers as part of that first purchase of any firearm !!! Brownell's has a top drawer set that they offer & no one surpasses the gunsmiths' set offered by Chapman Mfg. All other suggestions & methods shared in this video were top drawer & only lacking in this extra bit of data !!! Thank you sir !!!
Mark, what a timely video. I bought a Winchester model 43 and found an original Lyman receiver sight for it a few days later. When I tried to back the tiny sight filler screws out of the reciever one of the two screw heads cracked and the top half of one hemisphere sheared off. I put the screw drivers back in the kit so now I have one more item for you to look at this spring!
And this was super educational thank you. I have gone so far as drilling them out and using JB weld after retapping. She is still the only one I have restored that I have not fired as I felt I did it all wrong. Now a wall hanger. Never under estimate the value of education and a press. 🙂
You may want to look at Northern Tool for a "Manual Impact Driver". They are a spring loaded, hammer driven, device that you hold in your hand and twist it in the direction you wish to go and then gently strike it with a hammer. It not only twists the screw but the hammer blow drives the bit into the slot of the screw helping to keep from rolling out of the slot (same for Phillips screws). Item #80657 is a 1/4 inch drive and there is a 3/8 inch also for the bigger fasteners. They both have a square drive and come with a hex adapter for screw driver bits. As you mentioned, the hammer blows tend to break up the rust.
well I am older than dirt and been in the trades all my life. I tried this on a 1800 rifle reciever screw that I been soaking for a week. This work that like you showed it. Thanks
As always, excellent information from you Mark, I have always used the drill press method as it prevents the long ugly scores you get from a slipped turnscrew, quite apart from the fact that you do not get stabbed by the slipping sharp instrument, the secret is to hold everything from slipping around, and clamped in the vice everything is held firm, and usually results in a removed screw! Happy New Year to you! Chris B.
One method you didn't mention that we did at the gun shop is to use a blow...hammer impact...use to use all the time to break loose stubborn rusted screws..of course after soaking with some type of skunk piss..Shoe in SW Oregon.
For me...and I have restored quite a few of the model 90's and other vintage winchesters and remingtons... a good fitting screw driver and a hammer are essential. You have to whack that screw good, not just love taps. An impact driver works equally well, must have proper tight fitting bit and it could take a dozen raps but it will come. Never have used heat and for all the hype about Kroil and I have had it around for 30 or more years now, I have not seen it work that well. Impact force with a tight hollow ground tip driver is the recipe for me
Another good video with some great tips. I find treating with Kroil up front to be a great share of the battle. Makes the subsequent steps work ever better. Well done again on a fine video!
Amazing! I’ve been struggling for over a week on this old 3030 I’ve been trying to restore, but have had two screws stuck. Using the drill press I was able to get them both out within a matter of minutes! Thanks for all the advice.
Why didn't you go to an impact driver before the drill press? The only screw I've never been able to remove without ruining the screw head and mar the stock finish was on a pellet gun because the metal was extremely soft. I actually used a hand drill and drilled just deep enough to pound in the tip of a sharp #00 phillips and attached to a little impact driver I got from the auto parts store, it finally came out. NEVER needed a drill press on a firearm of any other kind. Give it a shot! You'll be glad you did! AWWWWW! Great way to use a drill press! GREAT IDEA! Thanks!
I've used the polished ball peen hammer but the drill press trick is new and I can't wait to try it on a win. 1897 shotgun that's been soaking in ATF/ kerosene Thanks.
Although at the ripe old age 39 and still just a pup...in my experience, you didn't swear at it near enough before bringing out the big guns. She'll usually give up the fight and give in, if done good 'n proper!
Another little tip to help getting traction with the bit in the screw is to put a water-based valve lapping compound in the slot and on the bit to keep it from slipping. A trick I learned fixing motorcycles and ATVs, professionally, for over 45 years.
I have had great success using graphite electrolysis with the anodes facing the disagreeable fastener in question. It takes off bluing, but in some cases it doesn’t matter.
I had a old gunsmith show me that trick a few years ago and i was relly glad he did i have done that and it really works glad you showed that to everone
Wanted to stop in and say, Thank You and Happy New Year! Have a similar situation going with a uberti cattleman 4click chambered in 44. Straight shooting and hard hitting with the 217gr bullet being pushed by a compressed load of 32gr homemade powder.
I do a lot of rework on original 1861/63 Springfields and 1852 Enfield rifle muskets. I feel your pain, Lol! I found patience and the judicious use of heat works. Big thing is to be prepared to walk away, calm down and let it sit for a while. Don't rush it. That's what I have to tell myself again and again.
Just got done before Christmas working on a 1864/1866 Allin Conversion in 50/70 Government shoots like a top.
I learned years ago that if you run across a Phillips head screw that has been stripped out is to take a Torx bit that is close to the same size and hammer it in and try it. This method has saved me from needing an Easy Out on more than one occasion!
Me too
@@wallacejeffery5786 it's a great technique!
I do not KNOW the name of the tip or tool, it is Canadian in heritage, still used in the electrical trade and industry. Looks like a flat screwdriver tip with a diamond type shape machined in the center (as a sparky I own some). I find I can drive them into damaged Philips with some success, like anything depending on damage and such, and maybe a slot cut to help.
Use valve lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver (Phillips head) and in the screw head. An impact driver or impact gun either shatters the screwdriver tip, or gets the screw out.
Another handy thing I was taught, was once the screw cracks loose, is the same for all threads actually, is to wind it back in a quarter of a turn or more for every turn out, to help clear the threads of rust and debris coming out and minimise the chances of it binding up again .
If only all “gunsmiths” were so knowledgeable and patient. Great video! Love the content you provide.
45 years in various types of shops but you taught me two things today! Never thought to peen back chewed up metal on a screw, always just dressed them down. The drill press trick was great as well! Ya got me heading into the new year smarter than I was. Thanks!
Never seen that drill press method, absolutely fabulous!
Kroil claims that it is "the oil that creeps." Last night I put can of it at the end of my work bench and when I came out there this morning, it had crept to the other end of the bench! Thanks for the good video, sir!
I know having the correct fitting screwdriver is so important but had never seen that method with a drill press before, thank you, I think it could be a game changer!!
Great lesson on stuck screws. The older the gun, the more important the screw becomes.
"Kroil!" is AWSUM! I learned working around machinists! Once you go to "penetrating" oil Help IT Penetrate! Vibration, vibration, VIBRATION! some times a day or so penatration, and I found sometimes going a tiny bit "Tighter" helps come "Looser?" once or twice I have found reversed threads. I love the DRILL PRESS idea!! THIS is GOING into my Tool Idea Box! Got to say "Once in a While" an Impact driver comes out with a two-pound hammer. Just did most this on a stuck breach plug and vent liner, butt I ended with drilling the liner and easy outing, and patience with engineering tooling worked for the breach plug.
I attack with the thoughts of "I will" only fix it or go down in flames trying, but get it done with respect and honor for the engineering and history, never give up, never give in.
9:07 That drill press 😍
The art deco pully cover is sweet, reminds me of an early 1950's Pontiac hood.
In aviation maintenance, I use a "screw knocker" to remove tough screws. It's an attachment for a rivet gun. Try tapping the end of the screw driver, as you are turning it.
Excellent video, the other one I would add is use the tip of a soldering gun or iron to heat the screw up then drip in the Kroil or PB blaster. After it’s hot it will wick into the threads most of the time. I work on rusty cranes on piers so I feel this pain constantly.
THANK YOU SIR FOR A GREAT RIDE
best video I've ever seen. I have a model 1897 Remington Rolling Block with 3 stuck screws, and a stuck cross pin. Penetrating oil hasn't worked so far.
That's great. In the past when I have a stuck screw like that and I try the first two steps without any luck, I very gently use a small impact driver.
Of course if that doesn't work its off to the mill for some drilling.
Heat and candle wax works well if the application can allow for a torch.
Obviously not in this particular situation but something to keep in mind. The candle wax won't evaporate like oil when the flame is applied.
Also for pin point heat a magnifying glass and the sun work very well.
I had a similar issue with a screw head that completely stripped. I attempted to use a screw extractor but all it did was take off more of the metal using a drill. Took it to a machinist friend that used the screw extractor, except that he hammered the extractor into the screw head (or what was left of it). He then used a vice grip to torque the screw extractor to remove the screw. Looks like you need the extra leverage provided by a torque arm with a slow and steady rocking force.
Your work is amazing. There can't be many guys on the entire planet with your skill set and knowledge of vintage firearms. I hope some young guys coming up can continue the tradition.
Great info! Btw, I have that same drill press! An ancient warrior.
Excellent video on a common problem.Thank you. Perry Pappous
I also use Kroil which I learned about from a friend at work years ago. I had a stuck choke tube once on a model 1100 20 gauge. I put the barrel muzzle down in a small bucket, supported the receiver in my vice and poured Kroil down the barrel till I had a couple of inches in the bucket. Came back the next morning and removed the choke tube with no problem. I then poured the Kroil back in the can so I would have it for the next time I needed it to save my bacon.
Thanks. I gave up on a "keeper" screw for the stock screw of a Remington Model 11 shotgun that really needs restocked. That was long ago and stocks with forends were readily available. Not sure if I will try again, unless .....
kroil best rust buster around. have been using it for years in many different applications.
They make a hand held screwdriver when hit on the steel barrel it torques the screw with a lot of power. Works on most cases in my experience. You twist the steel body and load the screwdriver so that the hammer blow is working to unload it and at the same time unscrew the screw. Not very expensive and you can get additional bits as neeeded. It was called a Torque ScrewDriver long before the electric impact drivers came on the scene and actually does a very different job as it applies more force in a controlled manner. I like your drill press method for things you can carry over and fit on the press table.
Hey Mark you did it again! Great video but, got a tip for you. Learned years ago in the home shop of my uncle whom was a 50 yr. master machinist with GE. In these situations, use as you did the large vise but first position the receiver/part in a vise with shorter jaws then clamp that whole assembly, turned 90 degrees into the large vise as you have there. Does three things, short height jaws, even if you mill a vise down yourself, gives access to small/smaller parts and adds mass to these components to resist passive movement from the torque input from the angular momentum your imparting with the press. Lastly it clamps the clamp! Meaning, it takes any movement out of the jaws that can allow slippage of parts. The cross clamping adds firmness to the acme threads or maybe cheaper vises. As I type this I see a possible additional benefit of resisting possible quill movement from flex or slop from worn or cheaper drill presses.
Keep up the great videos!!!
That's a trick I never would have thought of.
Thank you for sharing
I have seen some stubborn screws and that was up there with the worst. I am truly impressed that you got it out with no damage.
Good video and valuable info. Kroil is the best penetrant I have used also. Sometimes an impact driver is useful, spend the extra money and get a snap on,the extra money will pay for itself in quality and results. God bless.
Never thought of using the drill press like this.....Thanks for the excellent tip.
Good show, my dad taught me that years ago to tap that screwdriver into the screw and try to turn it loose at the same time works well !
Cool Tip.. when a bing bang is coated with Cerakote I have also resourced to heating the screw with a soldering iron to avoid overheating the coating on the bing bang. 🤓😎
That is awesome, sir! That’s the kind of trick the older folks can pass along. I’m always impressed by how creative some of the old ways can be.
Thank you my Friend! You just made my used floor standing drill press infinitely more valuable!
Kroil is my go to penetrating oil for any stuck screws. I’ve seen it work miracles on rust and gunk. It also works great on getting lead out of barrels. Another simply great video sir.
I bought a brand new 1858 Remington
Never been able to completely tear it down. Screw under the trigger guard just is stubborn from the factory. Gonna give this a go. Wish me luck and thanks for posting!
Hello Mark, As always you provide priceless information to the viewers. The main problem with messed up screws is the use of the wrong screwdriver. I purchased a quality gunsmith set decades ago from Dixie Gun Works.I still use them today. Your drill press idea is fabulous. Besides Kayno, Kroil oil, I found an equal 50-50 mix of automatic transmission oil and acetone works well as a rust breaking solvent. But just mix a little as the acetone evaporates quickly. It worked well on a clean out screw in the breach block of my original 1863 Sharps carbine. After a few days of repeated soaking. As you said, patience is critical.
First off , I would have started off this DIY info vid with " never use a carpenters / woodworkers type of screwdriver to remove slot headed screws from any type of firearm or cutlery product , unless you mean to damage the screw head !!! Anyone who has ever had to locate , buy & have shipped , a tinny replacement screw for one of their firearms , knows how troubling & costly these items can be !!! The next thing I would have advised the watchers of this type of video is , to automatically & with great haste , to invest in a great set of gunsmiths' screwdrivers as part of that first purchase of any firearm !!! Brownell's has a top drawer set that they offer & no one surpasses the gunsmiths' set offered by Chapman Mfg. All other suggestions & methods shared in this video were top drawer & only lacking in this extra bit of data !!! Thank you sir !!!
Mark, what a timely video. I bought a Winchester model 43 and found an original Lyman receiver sight for it a few days later. When I tried to back the tiny sight filler screws out of the reciever one of the two screw heads cracked and the top half of one hemisphere sheared off. I put the screw drivers back in the kit so now I have one more item for you to look at this spring!
Wonderful !! Skill and knowledge with a dose of patience. Great instructions.
It's been so long I can't remember who taught me the drill press trick, but it is invaluable.
And this was super educational thank you. I have gone so far as drilling them out and using JB weld after retapping. She is still the only one I have restored that I have not fired as I felt I did it all wrong. Now a wall hanger. Never under estimate the value of education and a press. 🙂
You may want to look at Northern Tool for a "Manual Impact Driver". They are a spring loaded, hammer driven, device that you hold in your hand and twist it in the direction you wish to go and then gently strike it with a hammer. It not only twists the screw but the hammer blow drives the bit into the slot of the screw helping to keep from rolling out of the slot (same for Phillips screws). Item #80657 is a 1/4 inch drive and there is a 3/8 inch also for the bigger fasteners. They both have a square drive and come with a hex adapter for screw driver bits. As you mentioned, the hammer blows tend to break up the rust.
Thanks for the tip. I've used impact drivers, but feel I have a lot better control with this method
well I am older than dirt and been in the trades all my life. I tried this on a 1800 rifle reciever screw that I been soaking for a week. This work that like you showed it. Thanks
As always, excellent information from you Mark, I have always used the drill press method as it prevents the long ugly scores you get from a slipped turnscrew, quite apart from the fact that you do not get stabbed by the slipping sharp instrument, the secret is to hold everything from slipping around, and clamped in the vice everything is held firm, and usually results in a removed screw! Happy New Year to you! Chris B.
You taught me something today. Thank you.
Great idea with the drill press. Thanks.
Great shot for an open sight got the job done great video
One method you didn't mention that we did at the gun shop is to use a blow...hammer impact...use to use all the time to break loose stubborn rusted screws..of course after soaking with some type of skunk piss..Shoe in SW Oregon.
For me...and I have restored quite a few of the model 90's and other vintage winchesters and remingtons... a good fitting screw driver and a hammer are essential. You have to whack that screw good, not just love taps. An impact driver works equally well, must have proper tight fitting bit and it could take a dozen raps but it will come. Never have used heat and for all the hype about Kroil and I have had it around for 30 or more years now, I have not seen it work that well. Impact force with a tight hollow ground tip driver is the recipe for me
Fantastic learning experience! I wouldn’t have thought of the wrench on the bit idea, let alone your drill press trick. Thanks!
Nice, i learn a very interesting method for unscrewing a rusty screw, thank you so much.👍
Another good video with some great tips. I find treating with Kroil up front to be a great share of the battle. Makes the subsequent steps work ever better. Well done again on a fine video!
Amazing! I’ve been struggling for over a week on this old 3030 I’ve been trying to restore, but have had two screws stuck. Using the drill press I was able to get them both out within a matter of minutes! Thanks for all the advice.
That’s a super great trick thank you!!
Have used that method before, but not on gun parts, thanks for the hints .
Thanks Mark. Great tips. Things I had never thought of.
I'm a South Texas gunsmith and I learned something today. Thanks
That's a great technique. Thanks
Very helpful! I’m newer to gunsmithing and this is great - thanks! 😎👍
The timing of your video could not have been better. I have a tiny stuck screw that had me stumped. Now I have the knowlege to proceed. Thanks!
Thank you from Canada, been around a long time and have not seen that drill press trick. A great one for those nasty little buggers
Why didn't you go to an impact driver before the drill press? The only screw I've never been able to remove without ruining the screw head and mar the stock finish was on a pellet gun because the metal was extremely soft. I actually used a hand drill and drilled just deep enough to pound in the tip of a sharp #00 phillips and attached to a little impact driver I got from the auto parts store, it finally came out. NEVER needed a drill press on a firearm of any other kind. Give it a shot! You'll be glad you did!
AWWWWW! Great way to use a drill press! GREAT IDEA! Thanks!
By golly that is some fine work! Thanks for sharing.
This is watching a master at work. Nice job 👍
I've used the polished ball peen hammer but the drill press trick is new and I can't wait to try it on a win. 1897 shotgun that's been soaking in ATF/ kerosene
Thanks.
That's the first time I've seen that trick with the drill press. Thanks
What a great technique . Thank you for sharing
I love the drill press method. Thanks that is definitely a trick i will have to try.
Loved this video !! I also love that sweet old drill press.
Although at the ripe old age 39 and still just a pup...in my experience, you didn't swear at it near enough before bringing out the big guns. She'll usually give up the fight and give in, if done good 'n proper!
drill press method is amazing. thanks or sharing mark.
Another little tip to help getting traction with the bit in the screw is to put a water-based valve lapping compound in the slot and on the bit to keep it from slipping. A trick I learned fixing motorcycles and ATVs, professionally, for over 45 years.
Very informative. Thanks for the share!!
I have had great success using graphite electrolysis with the anodes facing the disagreeable fastener in question. It takes off bluing, but in some cases it doesn’t matter.
Thank you!
Oh yeah. Stuck gun screws are the bane of the firearm's repair business. Great video and Happy New year to all.
Excellent!
Thanks for passing on the great tips. May you have a great 2023.
That tip was worth it’s weight in gold my friend, thank you so much for sharing this .
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Great video, thank you.
I had a old gunsmith show me that trick a few years ago and i was relly glad he did i have done that and it really works glad you showed that to everone
Very nice tip, thank you!
Thank you for another great video! Have a safe and Happy New Year!
This is the most knowledgeable video I have seen on this topic thanks for your assistance
A new tool for my bag of tricks. Thank you very much for the video.
Definitely one of the best CZcams videos ever. Start to finish up and up honesty. Bravo!
Wanted to stop in and say, Thank You and Happy New Year!
Have a similar situation going with a uberti cattleman 4click chambered in 44.
Straight shooting and hard hitting with the 217gr bullet being pushed by a compressed load of 32gr homemade powder.
Great video. Tried the screwdriver and wrench method, but never thought of the drill press.
Happy New Year
Love your videos. Thanks!!!
Great topic for a video!! Thanks!
Cool, I never saw that trick before. I have tig welded a driver bit onto the screw head when the screw is big enough. The heat really helps.
As usual, great information and insight! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thank you for sharing some of your valuable knowledge.
Very informative thank you we all appreciate it.
Great info, thanks.
Love th se gunsmithing tips and tricks videos!
Good job!
Excellent video Mark, very good tips. Happy new year ,lots of health and success to you and loved ones !!