Canister Filters, Booster Filters and Chemical Filtration 101
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Aaaarrrggghhh.....This is a long video but there is a lot of useful information in here if you can bear my boring voice and schoolboy editing for the duration of the video.
Time Stamps and useful links:
Canister filter featured in video: geni.us/2LnO
It is also known as the SunSun 304
Booster filter: geni.us/2bj1
Biohome filter media: www.filterpro.co.uk
Gel balls: (see above - 'Bacteria' page)
Carbon: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page)
Ammonia Block / Nitrate Remover: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page)
The description of the Ammonia and Nitrate pads has changed slightly since I made this video - the new recommended amount of pads to use can be found in the link above.
There is also a new design for the boxes.
API Stress Coat: geni.us/BHYeb
API Freshwater Test Kit: geni.us/oOfVb
Seachem Flourish Excel: geni.us/05BK
Easy Carbo Liquid Carbon: geni.us/kkluGf
Useful Video Links:
Nitrogen Cycle Video: • Filtration, Filtration...
Filter Sizing Video: • Why Your Filter is TOO...
Pimp My Filter Playlist: bit.ly/3hpsnq6
Time Stamps:
00:00 Intro
00:39 Importance of knowing the flow direction
01:38 Bottom to top flow filter set up
03:30 Gel filter starter balls (Pure Pond from EA)
04:13 Chemical media (Carbon)
05:10 Chemical media (Ammonia Block)
07:47 Chemical media (Nitrate Remover)
08:10 Top to bottom flow filter set up
10:53 How much chemical media?
13:22 Additives which enhance the bacteria development
14:52 Chemicals which delay / stall the bacteria development
21:51 The benefit of specific treatments
23:40 Booster filters (on intake pipe)
26:16 Booster filters (on outlet pipe)
Unfortunately Google / CZcams doesn't send me any notifications so please ring with any questions.
I hope you found his video useful and if you did then feel free to share it anywhere online, upload it to your own channel or take clips to use anywhere.
If you use the whole video please keep the video description (this thing) intact as it has all the relevant links and time stamps to complement the video.
I never ask for donations, I've got the minimal ads on my videos and never expect anything in return for making the videos ....... but .... if you've found this useful please check out the links above since some will provide the fragments of income I need to keep the roof over my head (and provide the funds needed to ride out the upcoming apocalypse...lol)
You can ring me any time as Google sees fit to send me no notifications or new comments - my number is 07772848730 and feel free to ask me anything. If I don't know the answer I'll just tell you I don't know as there is no point trying to pass myself off as an 'expert' when we're all on a long path of learning.
My channel on the Odysee network: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0
I'm not on FBI Book or any of that nonsense so ring me any time, no worries ...... speech is something we have to use before we devolve to be silent. - Zábava
![Aquarium Pre-Filters [DO THEY WORK?] - Why I Use Them?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FFtH3bwCl1s/mqdefault.jpg)
Aaaarrrggghhh.....This is a long video but there is a lot of useful information in here if you can bear my boring voice and schoolboy editing for the duration of the video.
*Time Stamps and useful links:*
Canister filter featured in video: geni.us/2LnO
It is also known as the SunSun 304
Booster filter: geni.us/2bj1
Biohome filter media: www.filterpro.co.uk
Gel balls: (see above - 'Bacteria' page)
Carbon: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page)
Ammonia Block / Nitrate Remover: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page)
The description of the Ammonia and Nitrate pads has changed slightly since I made this video - the new recommended amount of pads to use can be found in the link above.
There is also a new design for the boxes.
API Stress Coat: geni.us/BHYeb
API Freshwater Test Kit: geni.us/oOfVb
Seachem Flourish Excel: geni.us/05BK
Easy Carbo Liquid Carbon: geni.us/kkluGf
*Useful Video Links:*
Nitrogen Cycle Video: czcams.com/video/-O2SCXDO2RI/video.html
Filter Sizing Video: czcams.com/video/L5FkSTYkEAE/video.html
Pimp My Filter Playlist: bit.ly/3hpsnq6
*Time Stamps:*
00:00 Intro
00:39 Importance of knowing the flow direction
01:38 Bottom to top flow filter set up
03:30 Gel filter starter balls (Pure Pond from EA)
04:13 Chemical media (Carbon)
05:10 Chemical media (Ammonia Block)
07:47 Chemical media (Nitrate Remover)
08:10 Top to bottom flow filter set up
10:53 How much chemical media?
13:22 Additives which enhance the bacteria development
14:52 Chemicals which delay / stall the bacteria development
21:51 The benefit of specific treatments
23:40 Booster filters (on intake pipe)
26:16 Booster filters (on outlet pipe)
Unfortunately Google / CZcams doesn't send me any notifications so please ring with any questions.
I hope you found his video useful and if you did then feel free to share it anywhere online, upload it to your own channel or take clips to use anywhere.
If you use the whole video please keep the video description (this thing) intact as it has all the relevant links and time stamps to complement the video.
I never ask for donations, I've got the minimal ads on my videos and never expect anything in return for making the videos ....... but .... if you've found this useful please check out the links above since some will provide the fragments of income I need to keep the roof over my head (and provide the funds needed to ride out the upcoming apocalypse...lol)
You can ring me any time as Google sees fit to send me no notifications or new comments - my number is 07772848730 and feel free to ask me anything. If I don't know the answer I'll just tell you I don't know as there is no point trying to pass myself off as an 'expert' when we're all on a long path of learning.
My channel on the Odysee network: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0
I'm not on FBI Book or any of that nonsense so ring me any time, no worries ...... speech is something we have to use before we devolve to be silent.
Well shit dude, wish you would've been more clear years ago. I totally agree with what you are half way saying now. now I gotta re educate my self and friends who trusted what I told em before.
The man the myth, the only intelligent filter expert lol back at it again. Great informational video.
Glad you found it useful, man.
@@pondguru is it a good or a bad thing to have a oversized filter
@@gaywelshboy6811 (my other account) An over-sized filter is no problem as long as the return flow isn't too much for the fish.
Lots of filtration is good, lots of flow isn't always good.
@@gaywelshboy6811 I think you can always reduce the flow of a filter to a degree. Make sure the fish don't get stuck to the inlet.
Over size usually means less clean outs. (Four months seems nicer than every week.)
With a smaller filter, you can use an air curtain along the back of the tank to create a tumbling water motion that keeps the water moving to help carry the waste to the filter inlet. The air curtain gives you yet another thing to fiddle with in your tank to get the minimum amount of movement that will get the job done.
This brings you onto the topic of different sized air pumps with cost, noise, life span, movable air volume, pressure, etc. More hours of debate!
Great video that summarises all the key knowledge when setting up! I actually have two sets of the same big filter (main pump) plus pre-filter cannisters for one of my tanks. The pre-filters only has sponges that came with it (easy cleaning). I added the filter floss for the extra polish in the pre-filter just before it enters the main pump.One main pump is biological: Base is ceramic biomedia it came with, bottom tray is 4 graded sponge/floss, the rest of the trays are biohome, then peat to top it off. In the other main pump (UV turned on): base is again ceramics, then 4 graded sponge/floss tray, followed by trays of carbon, water softener resins (for Discus tank), and general chemical resins [just so I suck the heck out of all the impurities]. This set up seem to cycle my tank faster than my other tanks. Took about 2 weeks for a heavily stocked planted tank. I do use the water conditioner Prime though. But I may start using my outdoor koi tank that catches rainwater so it is untreated water (except that sponge + carbon in the filter). Once things are settled, I change my chemical main pump over to a the same biological one.
Sounds good to me - thanks for the report.
Good video , can't believe some tubers have a hard time understanding . Just common sense. And you explain it so easy.
Great vid, really helpful information that applies to both fishtank and pond filtration 👍👍 need an update on your pond and it's filtration 😜
You are amazing person with massive knowledge. Your videos are priceless
Thank you for great work you do.
I just bought some filter media from your store. I m looking forward to use it and see good results.
Once again thank you and all the best for you and family
I'm glad you find the videos useful and thanks for the order. As long as you have enough media for the tank size and stock the water should be perfect.
Just make sure to use a normal water conditioner (e.g. API Stress Coat) which does not remove / bind / detoxify the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and the beneficial bacteria population will be free to grow in line with the available food (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate).
Best of luck with the tank and all the best for 2024 and beyond.
Great and very informative video Richard.
Put it this way, often when I do a water change using ‘that product that binds toxins’ my nitrates start to climb after 2-3 days then start to go down slowly until the next water change. Makes sense why it’s happening now!
That's a clear indicator that the bacteria 'food' is being restricted then available, then processed by the bacteria. It';s always best to simply allow i to be available then the bacteria will maintain a constantly high population.
I must have missed it but what water conditioner leaves ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the water?
I've been using prime as well and my nitrates are always higher a couple days after a water change leaving me to rethink my life.
@@richhead1999 (my other account) Any 'normal' conditioner like API Stress Coat, Aquasafe, Tapsafe, Watersafe etc. simply makes the water safe for life.
However, any conditioner which claims to 'remove, detoxify, bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate starves the bacteria and ensures that the filter works less efficiently.
Assuming that you have everything else in place to achieve a full cycle then a simple swap to a 'normal' conditioner will likely see the cycle complete.
Got my first 10 gallon when I was 13. I’m 60 now and Iv learned more about filtration in last two days watching your videos then I have in my entire life. Thank you friend. 🙏🏽
(my other channel) No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful as I put them out to help.
@@ThousandYardStare - I ordered some biohome from Amazon- 85 dollars for 5 lbs. I then found great wave and it was only half. I ordered 22 lbs. lol 😂
@@whiteowl8703 That's why I always have the link to my site in the video description and pinned comment on the filter videos - it has direct links to the main sellers all over the world.
I'm just the UK distributor and don't have anything to do with the export / stocking of international suppliers and I can't really tell viewers not to shop at certain places but I can strongly advise using the main distributors, especially in the US since there is no point paying more then necessary.
I'm glad getting scalped didn't put you off the media and it's great you found Greatwave as they are the main US distributors.
Relatability
I find all your videos very informative thank you for all your knowledge and as always I look forward to your next video.
No worries and I'm glad you found it useful.
Richard, I really love your videos, they are filled with a great deal of common sense and knowledge, really helped me understand aquarium filtration better, however I want to point something out:
Seachem excel is just polymerised glutaraldehyde - a chemical used primarily for disinfection and sterilization of surfaces and equipment. Its non-polymerised version is really toxic and can blind or poison you, which is why for aquarium purposes the manufacturers use the less reactive polymerised version of the chemical.
The main use of glutaraldehyde in the aquarium hobby is as an algae killer, since it kills BBA. At one point there was a trend to use it as a pressurised CO2 replacement in planted tanks, however it was proven that achieving a concentration where the carbon released would be enough to influence plant growth will actually be deadly to all life inside the aquarium, there was a study by JBL explaining why they do not offer "liquid carbon" solutions.
I'm very skeptical of any claims that excel is beneficial to bacteria since its main usage is as microorganism killer.
I pimped my Fluval FX4 the way Richard teaches, set up with all new media and gel balls and with some old gravel from my previous tank my new 400 litre tank has had ZERO ammonia and ZERO nitrite almost from day one! The nitrate is only slightly raised too but I plan to increase the amount of Biohome to the level where hopefully in a few months the anaerobic bacteria take care of that issue too. I am now thinking of running two filters instead of a filter and wavemaker to enable me to have the larger amount of Biohome needed for the anaerobic bacteria to do their job of eliminating the nitrate and so get a full nitrogen cycle going. It's actually quite fascinating learning how to do all this properly! Your advice has been golden Richard, ta mate!
There generally isn't enough media in a FX4 (3kg) for a 400 litre (normally stocked?) tank but every tank is different. If he nitrate is only slightly up then the level of filtration may be there or thereabouts for eh size of tank and stock. It's a fine line between having too little media and having enough to achieve a positively identifiable level of nitrate which indicates a full cycle.
@@pondguru Hi Richard, I may be calling you about this soon in case you don't get to read this ... the boosters do seem like a really good idea but I have an FX4 atm and I'm not sure if the pipes would fit. Also my main goal is to increase the amount of Biohome I use and create better water circulation. The FX4 holds about 3kg and I'd like nearer 8 if possible so am considering running one of the APSolutions 2000EF filters in parallel with the FX4, positioning the outlet nozzles at either end of the tank, one high to create surface disturbance for oxygenation, one low pointing towards the gravel to encourage proper water circulation and do away with the need for a wavemaker. My tank is 5 feet long and atm the end where the FX4 intake is is a bit quiet re water movement, if anyone has any input on this please fire away!
@@steverabbits (my other account) Ring me any time, no worries.
I can tell you put a lot of passion into what you do.
There is no other way.
i have used this filter for years and have never known if i had it set up the right way i found another youtubers video last year and followed it but now turns out i have had it upside down this whole time! i have been doubting myself for a long time thinking it was something i was doing wrong because i followed a big youtuber so they couldn't be wrong right? well turns out they can be wrong thank you so much for showing the correct way i have corrected it and my set up has never run smoother and i was also using one of these trojan horse conditioners also recommended by a big youttuber to fix the problems my incorrectly set up filter was causing i was just stuck in a horrible cycle never knowing what i was doing wrong so thank you
(my other account) I'm glad you found the video useful and while there are always numerous ways to achieve a similar result there are definitely ways which work better or quicker than others and also other ways which ensure that the cycle never completes. Let me know how it goes after the changes.
Love your videos they are amazingly helpful.. would you be able to do something to help us marine boys that use canister's please
Hey love your videos. Quick question. I recently purchase a All Pond Solution EF2+ and have added my own dimpled mechanical foams. I purchased a set of three online which included Fine, medium and coarse. Would you say its not worth using the fine and double up on the medium as i have fine filter floss in the next stage. Just to improve over-all performance with less clogging capabilities. Cheers 👍🏼
Hi sir,
Nice informative video. In booster filter as output can I use half bio gravel and half bio media?
🤯 Amazing, looks like I’ll be changing out a product. Cheers Guru
I am looking at this filter for my 90 gallon fresh water tank. It looks well designed, simple & affordable. What's your thoughts on the one with the UV light built in? Wouldn't that kill good bacterial in the filter itself? THx
I have one of those aps booster filters hooked up to my fluval 406. They are the best thing since canister filters became a thing, I will never run a canister without a booster now.
Have you noticed a change in flow? Or does your booster have a pump?
@@chandler2561 it reduces flow by 20-30% which I can afford to lose because the filter pump is rated for tanks over twice the size I'm running it on , like most fish keepers we run oversized filters so a slight loss in flow is no big deal it actually filters the water better when its passing thru the media at a steady pace
Hi,
I had this exact same setup with the booster on the intake and the main canister filled with Biohome. It works very well but even the 5" prefilter clogs up pretty fast.
I eventually went one step futher and replaced the booster with another used Sunsun 304, removed the impeller, not powered and have it running as a full size prefilter. These used sun sun's are dirt cheap and this is well worth doing...
Does a pretty awesome job of polishing the water.
so without the impeller it still syphons?
Genius!👍
hat is a good way to go and many people do that to great effect. The 'classic' range of filters from Eheim are a popular one for using as a pre-filter too.
This is something I've considered doing myself but I'm amazed that just one impeller can move the water through both canisters! Why wouldn't you just leave the impeller in the pre-filter then you can at least plug it in and let it pump if needs be? I am considering running 2 canisters in parallel, I think I may need the ooomph in a 5 foot long 400 litre tank as even my FX4 doesn't really seem powerful enough to me
@@steverabbits (my other account) I will shift the water through both filters as long as you remove the impeller from the 'booster' filter. Here will definitely be some reduction in water flow but it shouldn't be noticeable.
Hi I bought the bio kit for the fx6 what pre booster filter do you recommend I think that will save me cleaning the main filter as much as the sponges get mucky I got gold fish in a 720l tank
Hi Richard,
Thanks for this video I found it to be very informative. I to seem to be guilty of using Purigen although I never recharge it I just replace it. Think it sounds like beat thing to do is not use it at all. Do I need to replace with something else? Use prime aswell but I will swap that for API stress coat or Tetra safe. I have a SICCE Whale 500 which like so many others use your setup method and its a fabulous simple filter, maybe if you get a chance pimp one out 😎👍
If someone sends one of the Whale filters I'll feature it, no worries.
This so what i need to do for my Juwel lido 200 ,,,, Thank you ,,,
I want to connect a booster filter to my inlet and outlet of my Fluval 207 ,,
Will my Fluval corrugated hose connect to the Booster cannister fixings ?
i was thinking on using the small booster as a prefilter and then into the 207 and back out to the large booster , that is filled with Bio ultimate ,,,,,
I already use your Bio gravel in my internal Juwel Bio M and the Fluval 207. I have 4 boxes in the Juwel and 2 trays filled in the Fluval ,,,
im going to Stop using Prime dechlor and switch to API stress coat as its killing the food for the bacteria to grow .
Merry Christmas
Great video! Always enjoy listening interesting advice 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼thank you
Glad you enjoyed it.
Always 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Am i glad i come past this video, when you talk we listen, and i have learned so much with this video, thanQ. Like i said The God.
(my other channel) I'm glad you found the video useful as I make videos to help. Not sure I'm any sort of authority on filtration though.
Amazing video again pal love all the info I had my c3 resin in the wrong place :( it’s not now thanks again. Mate
Could you do a "Pimp my Filter" of the Fluval C Series? Currently have the C4. Would be Much Appreciated! 😊
Hi Pondguru, I've been using both prime and purigen for 2 years in a reasonably heavily stocked 325lt tank. If you are right this could be a game changer. I keep detailed records of parameters and water changes and will be sure to see the results if you are correct. Great work mate, keep it up.
If everything else in in place to achieve a full cycle and it's not happening then the chemicals being used in the tank are almost always the reason why it won't complete - I'd love to see the results as such a simple change can make a massive difference to the efficiency of a system.
@@pondguru I have an aqua one ocellaris 1400uv pimped as per one of your vids but the only thing I don't have is the biohome media as I can't get my hands on it here in Melbourne Australia. Not sure if I can get the full cycle without but can see where you're coming from. Already have api stress coat so will drop the purigen and see how the nitrates respond. Thanks mate, love your work.
No worries and we do have a distributor which is linked on the FilterPro page (AU flag at top of page) - it is Genesis Group for AU.
If you can't get any of the Biohome the next best would be the substrat pro from Eheim as it has a god internal structure.
curious to know after 2 years how the change went!
Set up my aqua one the way you say to do an aquis as they are similar. I cleaned last year and the flow still hasn't dropped and it tests zero on all tests. So gonna leave it as it is until the flow starts to drop.
Awesome stuff - it amuses me that I still see people saying that it's impossible to achieve a full cycle using filter media to support the right bacteria. I love getting reports like this so thanks and I wish you the best of luck with the tank going forward.
What are your thoughts on running a tunze 3181 macro algae reactor for a marine tank would you run it between the inlet or after the canister on the outlet or just separately would like to set up an oase thermo 850 with lily pipes so only have one inlet and one outlet pipes in the tank if pos for a clean look
hi just recieved some biohome ultimate from you to go in my all pond solution 2000 efx+ filter and was wondering how you would rate the aps filter against something like the fluval fx filters i have a all pond solution 1000 on my 200 litre african cichlid tank with biohome media and my tank is always clear and fully cycled the highest my nitrates have been is 10ppm with this filter and media i am getting a new 600 litre tank soon thats what the new filter is for
I’m kind of gutted really that I’m seeing this video 3 years to late. I have struggled to get the full cycle admittedly using bio home and watched several videos, always coming back to it must be doing its job but I have an overstocked Malawi Cichlids tank which I assumed was producing higher levels of Nitrate and the bio home was dealing with it as best it can, (ammonia and nitrites perfect). Unfortunately I have been using one of the ‘Trojan horse’ conditioners to prep my water, so changing to another which doesn’t bind will likely improve my nitrates, big dilemma though, still got loads of the not cheap conditioner and it lasts ages, figure that will go in the garage and be forgotten about. I would appreciate which is the best in your opinion, (I’ll assume stress coat from API as you did mention it unless corrected).
Cheers for making this video, I know several other big name you tubers who will be interested in this video, whether they respond or try their experiments again taking this information into account is anyone’s guess but please next time don’t leave it so long lol (though a note or something on the bio home packaging would be beneficial if possible). Big fan of your work and you tube content, I have 2 Fluval canisters (FX4 & 306) both set out as you suggest, now with the final piece of the puzzle I should be fully set.👍👍
When everything else is in place to achieve a full cycle the conditioner is often the simple tipping point between failure and success. For a cichlid tank we'd recommend around 2kg of media per 100 litres although every tank is different so if you're holding a decent amount of media in the filters for the size of tank a and stock it should allow for the cycle to complete.
Ring me any time if you want to talk anything through, no worries.
Do you think I could use the EF100 pump as pre filter? I have a spare one. Or would a pump on both devices cause flow issues?
Hi I'm thinking of getting a booster to go with my fluval 307 will it increase the flow rate much? Cheers
What do you think of Zeolite? I was still not quite good in overstocked situations obviously because it strips of mania but as you say it will slow down the cycle I would imagine
I get the Purigen bit and recharge etc but Prime states: Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. It contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them.
That's what it says but cycling takes way longer while using that and similar conditioners which bind the 'food' bacteria need. It will eventually get there but it gets badly held back - always best to just let the food be available and allow the bacteria to flourish for quickest cycling and fastest processing of pollutants by the filter.
@@pondguru thanks. Am an avid follower of your channel. Keep up the good work
@@welshman71 (My other account) Will do, no worries and I'm glad you find the videos useful as I put them out to help.
Seachem says it only binds it for 24hrs, then you have to add more Prime. Unless you are dosing everyday your theory is incorrect.
Hi there pondguru,im from malaysia and im trying to purchase the ammonia block 3 in 1 but couldnt find it even in amazon.dont mind if you share the link to me. Thanks
Can we use 603 b as prefilter . Canister can handle the pressure of flow coming from 603b .
Brilliant I've been trying to get my head around using two filters instead of one in my 400 litre tank, hopefully it'll pick up some good tips here. There's nothing wrong with your accent Richard, it's actually nice to listen to, certainly better than the Bristolian accents I have all around me! 😂
I have useing these exact filters and boosters for years and the boosters are amazing
Everyone else has an accent - I speak proper English, lol
@@wardraven8755 the boosters do seem like a really good idea but I have an FX4 atm and I'm not sure if the pipes would fit. Also my main goal is to increase the amount of Biohome I use and create better water circulation. The FX4 holds about 3kg and I'd like nearer 8 if possible so am considering running one of the APSolutions 2000EF filters in parallel with the FX4, positioning the outlet nozzles at either end of the tank, one high to create surface disturbance for oxygenation, one low pointing towards the gravel to encourage proper water circulation and do away with the need for a wavemaker. My tank is 5 feet long and atm the end where the FX4 intake is is a bit quiet re water movement, if anyone has any input on this please fire away!
Stupid question...So that big filter you have there. Could you use that on a 250ltr goldfish tank or whatever small tank and because it's 'too' big would you get away with cleaning it less? Or would it not work properly. Thanks
Hello, do you recommend these filters? I’m looking to set up a discus tank. Thank you
ATM Paradigm water conditioner..Oase biomaster thermo filter with biohome ultra filter media...Thoughts ? 400 litre tank
I have gravel in my external filter done it one night in an emergency and it’s been in for nearly a year
Is the sunsun filters any good which one would you recommend I have a 35g fish tank wiv two fantail goldfish
You dont mention the fit, how much bypass does that filter allow on the outsides of that tray.
Great video bro very informative!
power info, Can it filter a 70gal. mbuna tank? (both the big and the small canister filter)
Does Chemi Pure fall into the same category as the "Pur^&%#" that was hinted in the video?
I have this filter but was looking to find a much better set up compared to how I have done mine. Thank you for you're info. I like what you have used and I'm going to go with what you suggest! I am cycling 300ltrs! And I have over 36 fish I think in the tank.
Have you seen those activated carbon cubes that people buy? What's you're view on that? Do you think they are alright?
I use all seachem products and I use Esha for sickness!
You're always better using normal carbon or activated charcoal pellets of you need to draw in staining from bogwood or residual treatments as the impregnated foams don't have anywhere near the amount of carbon on hem compared to a handful of pellets.
@@pondguru I thought you'd say that. I use the activated carbon in my canister. Those carbon cubes are advertised all over facebook as this cool thing that would clear up the aquarium within a day or so... People are attached to the hype on that thinking it's brill. I got one to test it out on a new set up. Just a tank, water and the water treatment. Tank was heading into the cloudy new tank stage on the new set up, so I added that cube, and yes actually within 2 days the water was crystal clear. But they are huge and also have sharp edges that can damage the fish bodies And they do take up a large space. I gave the cube to a friend. I don't need it.
Wow! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. What you say makes perfect sense. And doing it this way allows me to fit 2.9kg of bio media (with some of your product 🙏). An extra 1.7 kg 🤘
Are the Sunsuns OK filters? I mean you can buy two of the damned things for the price of one Oase or Fluval. I never heard of a booster filter but that's brilliant. Thanks for the heads up..
I have a 120Ltr tank with 3 goldfishes .. I have an EHEIM 2215 with 2 kg of Biohome Ultimate for 1 year now. I follow your guides , every step and every detail but I have not achieved zero nitrates... I have 30-35ppm every 10 days and I do a 60% water change.. What should I do ? Is buying a sunsun 704B gonna help ?
We recommend 2kg of media per 100 litres for a goldfish tank so that may be a major reason why the nitrate hasn't come down further. However, 35ppm after 10 days when you have goldfish would indicate that even with the amount you have there is lower than normal nitrate. With the extra half kilo (or more if you have space for it) that will likely see the cycle fully completed.
You can never have too much filtration but it is easy to have too little - the difference between not enough and enough is often a very small amount.
I would kill for 30-35ppm nitrates! Lol My setup is still very new and im at 100ppm in 10 days
Could u say if seachem prime is a good water conditioner not a trogan horse 1
I have had a tetra ex1200 plus running on my 240 lt tank seemed to be ok until it started leaking 😢, so ordered a new AP solution 1400 & the 2.5lt pre filter & possibly most importantly I've ordered 3kg of bio home from you. Im hoping after watching your helpful video this will set me up well, thanks for tips.
Nice one - I'm glad you found the video useful.
Thanks for the order and best of luck with the tank.
@@pondguru 1st order finally arrived today (went to wrong sorting office, NOT your fault), so now I finally have 3kg so will fill & set up new filler + pre filter. All set up now not sure my poor internal filter was going to do the job for much long, just glade I had a spong filter on tank too . Thks David.
@@lorddjg (my other channel) It's good to hear that it arrived safely - I don't know what's going on with delivery companies lately but it seems like they are getting more useless by the day. It's like nobody wants to work any more and those who do take no pride in their work.
i would really like to see a how to setup of a RO water system too cos that's the actual problem start if that's done correctly the rest is just gonna fall in to place. or some info on home tap water filtration or something like like that. been following your channel for quit sometime and a huge thank you for all the info you have provided. have worked awesomely till today.
Sadly i haven't been able to get my hands on your biohome media in Thailand that's where im in now. so i tried your alternative medias and works just great. RO systems are really expensive too. hope to hear from you on this topic too
thank you sir
RO units are something I haven't had much to do with and discus keepers would probably be the best to ask about those. As long as you remineralise the water going back to the tank (to ensure that the water is not 'dead') a RO unit is a good way to remove toxins from tap water.
@@pondguru thank you sir. 😊 any hope of getting biohome media in Thailand ??
I don't think we currently have distributor in Thailand but the nearest would be Singapore, Malaysia or Vietnam - all are linked by their country flags at the top of any page on the FilterPro site www.filterpro.co.uk
Unfortunately due to all the tyranny going on here with the Brexit mess and Covaids Plandemic I am unable to send anything outside the UK - it now just gets 'lost', held in depots then returned a month later or it arrives weeks later with massive import charges. It is a ridiculous engineered situation to prevent any trade between UK companies and the rest of the world.
Question:
I have an EHEIM professional 4+ 600 but picked up an additional EHEIM professional 4+ 350, at a steal. I would like to run the filters in series, so that the 350 has foam, with fine filter material and the 600 contains all the bio media. I know prefilters are an option, but I figured the 350 could work as well. I can’t think there would ever be an over or under pressurization issue, causing leaks, if I put the 600 second but I wanted to get some input. The goal isn’t to increase flow, but to have one unit that receives regular maintenance instead of two.
Like the prefilter, a smaller canister filter in front of the main filter should work the same, just with an added boost. Am I wrong?
Also, I think either pump would be able to power the system, in some limited capacity, if one failed. The working filter would just need to push the nonworking filters impeller around till fixed.
What are your thoughts?
Looks like you address the concept in video 71. Thanks!
What's the best bio home media for ef2000 mini or ultimate.Also how long does the Bacteria balls you get with bio home last for not used.
They have a shelf life of 12-18 months
Chiming in on the conditioner issue. The main problem is over use. The amount of water going into the tank is the only thing that should be treated before its put in the tank not the whole tank volume. I thank you Richard for hi lighting the bacteria starvation issue with binding of bacterial nutrients. Please note using ammonia and nitrate pads could equate to the same thing. The key is how many times the media is exposed through water flow to allow bacteria a chance to feed.
Yes, that makes sense to me.
Has anyone tried the efx booster just on its own? I use the efx+ 2000 and a tidal 75 for my bigger tank which has been a great combo for the past 7 months. Now, I am in need of an affordable filter for my smaller tank which already has tidal 55 but I just need something more.
I've been using APS filters on all my tanks and have done for many years. I have the 'booster' filters on all of them as a pre filter. I have all mechanical filtration in the boosters, and biological in the canisters. That way I clean the boosters fortnightly, and the canisters 6 monthly.
My only gripe with this setup is how hard it is to bleed the system. I now use a powerhead to push water in until the air is expelled. Then its fine. The prime button on them is useless when used with a booster.
I ALSO USE THESE 2.3ltr BOOSTER FILTERS ON ALL MY EXTERNAL FILTERS WITH JUST MECHANICAL FILTRATION.there brill,and a very good price to.SAVES HAVING TO TAKE THE MAIN FILTER APART TO CLEAN.PLUS AN EXTEA BASKET FOR THE MEDIA.I DONT TOUCH MINE FOR WELL OVER A YEAR.just clean the Booster now and then,nice and simple 👌🏻👌🏻
Quick trick is to raise the booster above the main filter and use the bottom outlet to run to the filter. Used to have the same problem.
@@davidhills7986 That's a clever solution. My filters are a bit tall tho!
Good stuff and I'm glad they work well for you - yes, the cleaning process could be easier.
Until I just upgraded my tank I had the smaller 1000EF version, it was always difficult to prime, luckily it fits inside a bucket so I always let it siphon fill from the tank with the lid not clamped down until it starts overflowing, then clamp the lid down, that gets pretty much all the air out. With a booster attached it's best to actually suck the water through the intake pipe with your mouth (I know what fish water tastes like believe me!) until the intake pipe is full of water and starts to flow (and the booster canister too obviously) then reattach it to the main canister. The problem with priming is almost always trapped air so just sit and think of ways to get most of it out and it will work. This is the method I found best after 3 years of using the 1000EF. Hope that helps somebody
Sunsun hw-630b inlet from top and outlet from bottom? Thanks
could you please review and uvc extreme 1200 onse?
Is seachams prime a safe water conditioner to use when setting up a new canister filter ?
That’s what I’m wondering if he is referring to as well.
“Removes chlorine, chloramine
Detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate”
The last three sounds bad.
these filters are the best i have 2 and 2 add on filters running my 500ltr all i clean is my add on filters who needs a fluval fx filter over rated lovely video pondguru .
A filter is basically a container to hold a suitable amount of foams and media so if product X, Y or Z works then it's all good. It's amazing how many fanboys there are for certain types of filters but they all do a great job when they are set up properly.
Sir make video on Shiruba xb 312 canister filter
Great videos, especially about booster/ prefilters. But how do I maintain good throughput through the filtering system? Putting another punp in series doesn't sound that great, as one may push out more than the other can cope with
Those boosters don't have a pump, they are just inline, so whatever flow your canister filter pumps in will get pumped out. Only problem is if the booster gets clogged and its flow slows down, that will of course slow down the whole flow. But in that case, you should clean your canister/booster anyway. Same clogging can happen without using a booster.
@@kwajrod I also realized that, but with some reading in engineering-for-dummies, you can put two filters (motors) in series and add the head power. The main purpose of my booster/prefilter is that I don't have to deconstruct the bio filter to clean the mechanical filter (that invariably is in the bottom of the canister). Added benefit is that you can use the mechanical filter in draining the tank as well.
So, does it make sense to have two filters in series, one fully mechanical, the other fully bio, or did I watch to many CZcams videos about external filters?
@@andreasheiner3426 If you have the space and money, I think having 2 filters in series could work well, the first mechanical, the second biological. I would suggest the same brand/model/flow for both filters.
@@kwajrod Thanks for the advice; I hadn't realized yet that it's best to have two of the same. I'm in the planning phase, but if I'm using the two-filters setup I'll show you the results. Thanks again
I'm sorry but can we use seachem prime yes or no on water changes sorry ,,,
It has a catastrophic starving effect on the bacteria by starving it of the 'food' it needs but it does do a very good job of dechlorinatng the water. If you look on any online forum you'll see people struggling to achieve any sort of cycle after 7-8 weeks which is ridiculous and the common factor is almost always a conditioner which messes with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - the ammonia and nitrite should drop to zero after 2-3 weeks when they are left to populate the filter naturally.
That is why I always recommend a normal dechlorinator (e.g API stress coat) which doesn't mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - it's the bacteria's job to process that and it will do it easily when the food is available. There should be no need to put additional bacteria into the tank when everything is working well and everything will work well when the filter is a suitable size, properly set up and nothing is messing with the natural processes.
Yes, the manufacturer of the damaging treatments always call them 'safe and effective' but where have we heard that before? When the 'solution' to the problems caused by the 'treatment' is another treatment (e.g 'stability' to add more bacteria when prime starves the bacteria already present n the system) then it is only right to ask questions but you will see that example of a 'solution' being offered everywhere online and by every brand 'ambassador'.
Are you aware of fritzzyme 7? It speeds up the cycling process
I've heard a few people say they have used that to good success but anything will do to seed a filter - when it is unhindered bacteria will populate any filter media (except plastic) very quickly.
Maybe daft question but I've recently bought filter and tank off friend it was set up as saltwater tank but I've cleaned everything to death as what to set as freshwater he had the media in your video would I be able to use it for fresh water now it's been soaked and cleaned
The filter is fine to use in freshwater after being cleaned but it may be worth giving the media an hour or so in a hot oven before using it in another system. It will still contain some of the minerals from the saltwater system but you will burn off any organic matter and eliminate the risk of bringing anything which could harm the new system in. The minerals / trace elements still left in the media from the saltwater tank will get free into the system but will be in such small amounts that it will not affect the freshwater parameters, plus it will be diluted with every water change.
As long as you haven't soaked the media in bleach it will be fine to use after a good baking but if you've used bleach to 'clean' the media it will have to be scrapped.
No just soaked and rinsed in tape water thank you getting back to me leaned so much from your channel brilliant content
@@talkofthetank2308 (my other account) Sounds good to me - i will just need a good baking before use in that case.
Love all you videos . That being said have you caved now we need a pre filter ? For the filter ?
Sun filters are great and your sets ups are wonderful fx6 / fx5 videos the same but why do sun sun need a pre filter ? And why always the bio media let's see you go back to your roots .. instead of selling products . We all have loved and see your videos and your knowledge and appreciation for that just get back to your roots of helping people not selling more
The videos don't help anyone?
I'm currently 80+ videos into a series which has cost me a small fortune to make but I make the Pimp My Filter videos to help people set their filters up efficiently. Those videos are purely for people who own a specific filter or are considering buying a specific filter (which I do not sell) and none of the videos are sponsored by any company or individual since the information in them has to be authentic.
I supply all the bio media for the series at my own cost and send the filters back to their owners at my own cost - how many other channels would spend £1000's and hundreds of hours to make a video series or do anything without 'sponsors', begging links, join button or being a paid 'ambassador'?
With regard to the 'need' for a pre-filter you don't need a pre-filter unless there is a need for one. For example if the stock in the tank increases and there is a need for more filtration instead of buying a whole new (larger) filter you can buy a booster which will enable one of the trays in the existing filter (which would normally be used for foams) to be filled with media to increase the filtering capacity of the system.
With regard to bio media that is very important as it holds the vast amounts bacteria necessary to process the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. It takes a suitable amount of viable bio media to hold enough bacteria to process the pollutants.
I use the Biohome media in the videos since it has a structure which allows for the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to colonize it - the aim is to achieve a full cycle and that is less achievable or impossible with the vast majority of other filter media types.
I made a video a while back which may be of use to appreciate how very different bio media is: czcams.com/video/QTtAUYR67Eg/video.html
That will hopefully illustrate why I use the Biohome media in the filtration videos.
However, viewers are obviously free to use whatever foams and filter media they want or whatever is available in their country.
I tend to use Biohome in the videos as it is something I have in quantity here (since I sell it), it works to achieve a full cycle and I know from thousands of user reports how much media is needed for different stocking levels to achieve a full cycle. I do not have as much information on any other media and therefore the information in the videos would not be accurate if I used another type of media and it is important for me to relay accurate information.
To be fair to your comment if I hadn't undertaken the long running, time consuming and expensive series of videos known as 'Pimp My Filter' I would have more time for DIY filter videos and other types of videos that I'd rather be making but when I commit to something I see it through fully.
If I didn't have a family, full time job and a garden to consider I'd happily make videos all day, every day on all sorts of topics and I'd love to do that but the only way to make that a reality would be for me to take the Faustian bargain and sell out by becoming an 'ambassador', having sponsors, having a join button, channel merchandise, paid live streams, members content etc. etc........ all of which I will never do.
Basically you're stuck with whatever videos I make on this channel, lol
Thanks for watching and all the best for 2024.
Your 100 precent about product X water conditioner .i stick to one of the simple standard water conditioner's. I noticed with product X. Conditioner i struggled to maintain an established tanks water parameters.switched back to a basic one ,all good everything back to practically zero.only reason i used it was because it was concentrated, therefore got more water changes per bottle ,but if it messes up your hard gotten water parameters whats the point
(my other channel) For sure - only people who look into it will see the hidden harm it does which is why most people using it will also use a bacteria additive after every water change.
There's only 1 winner when 2 products are used instead of 1 and it's not the fish keeper.
Great video pretty sure now I’ve seen this that I’ve got a couple of internal filter set up upside down 😂
P.s cheers for the advise on the phone this morning! Shame Fluval sell filter with tanks that aren’t cut out for the job 🙄
No worries and it is frustrating to see their tanks sold with a filter which is always one size too small.
@@pondguru yep but I’ve ordered a all pond solution booster last night 👍🏼 hopefully that will give me enough
@@loganbrowne9552 (my other account) Yes, that could make the difference between success and failure.
Epic with the cows giving sound effects.
What is the best water conditioner is best to use?
(my other channel) Any normal water conditioner will allow the bacteria to thrive by simply making the (tap) water safe for life.
As long as you avoid any conditioners claiming to 'remove / detoxify / bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate the filter will cycle quickly. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate is needed for the bacteria to feed on and expand the population until the filter fully matures so the last thing you want to do is put it on a starvation diet.
boosters are ment to postpone cleaning of the main filter , you need lots of fine "wool" in the booster to prevent as much particles entering and pluging into the filter , by maintaining the booster filled with wool which traps most of solids as soon as possible remooves the source of nitrates , if implamented correctly it can lengthen the service of the main filter from once a month to twice a year .
the small diameter boosters are great to be used as polishers , plugged with fine carbon media can do the job much more efficient and faster than putting the same media in the main canister
generally u need a bigger amount of wool than shown here to keep the media as clean as possible otherwise they not only loose theyre effectiveness but they become a source of nitrates thus the nickname of canister filters " Nitrate Factories"
I was going to buy 2 of these for my filters. My tank is cloudy with tiny particles and I have fine wool in every tray (I have 2 of these 2,000lph filters) but still isn't getting it all. I think it might be the food I use, I'm not overfeeding, just think it's messy. So I was thinking of buying 2 of these boosters and filling them with fine wool but was going to put them on the outlet so that once the water has gone through the main filters, it's then polished by the booster. Do you think then that it would be better going through the boosters first? I was worried that the larger particles would reduce the flow significantly in the booster
@@ryanmcgeown4170 too much fine wool is not particulary good either a coarser type is always good to prescede the wool in order to prevent it from cloging easily , what system u have , what fishes and what food you use ?
I have a 600L tank with about 23 peacock cichlids. I have the 2 efx 2,000 filters with the same media as this video (same foams and bio home ultimate) in each filter with a fine wool pad at the top of each tray, 250ml of purigen and a sponge filter (the black sponge with the weight on). 2x 12,000lph wave makers and a surface skimmer so thought filtration would be pretty good. The fish food is from Herons pet world, probably considered a cheap food but it has really brought out the colours in my cichlids
@@ryanmcgeown4170 the two prefilters is a good option to have although it will not so.lve all problems , it will make the maintance a bit easier by not having to open the main filters in order to service the wool / pads which will all be located on the prefilter , in your case i would just change to frozen foods , that way the pollutants get slashed both in apearnce of the water but more so on the chemical parameters , as for color even the simple un enriched foods may provide a good show , there are also enriched ones to add even more pop of color
I have plenty of frozen foods so I'll change to just that for a bit and see how I get on. Thanks for your advice
Does anyone try to marry up sponge filters with a canister filter? Would it require too many spouge filter cleans? It would reduce the canister maintenance...
Having a booster filter on the intake side of a canister is quite common but many people also use a coarse block of foam on the intake pipe inside the tank to further reduce the maintenance on the canister filter.
If a decent sized booster filter is used on the intake side of a canister there should be no need to do anything with the canister other than fill it with good media and forget about it.
Very knowledgeable as usual rich, still waiting for me 1902 pal😉
I have that one on the editing list to do no worries. Next video may be another pimp my filter so could be that or the Tidal 55 - probably the 1902 followed by another long video like this one where I show how to keep a tank running using various methods during a power cut. I shot that last week but it will take ages to edit down into something around 25-30 minutes.
@@pondguru cheers rich, and that last video you done was brilliant mate, very helpful to alot of people including me, I use seachem products only so I know I'm good. 😂. Although apparently Bentley pascoe is about to do a video about seachem saying how shit it is, I've never had a prob with it myself. 🤔👍
Good day, I followed your advice and bought the external additional smaller canister filter. I had a problem when following your link there were several choices. When I ordered I received the canister however the outlet inlet hoses were 12 mm not the 16/18 mm. So, I bought adapters and connected the hoses together. It worked but I believe the flow is being slowed down due to the smaller hoses connected to the system. Can you specifically point out the correct mini canister filter to use, so that I don't have the problem with the hoses. I know this was 2 yrs ago but I hope you can still help and advise. What you said about the use of the smaller canister makes perfect sense and that is the way I have designed my filtration. Thanks in advance.
(my other channel) It sounds like you've bought the 1.2 litre option instead of the 2.3 litre option for the pre-filter.
I would never recommend the 1.2 litre version since it is so much smaller and less compatible with most canister filters. The 1.2 litre version has foams which are only about 4" diameter whereas the 2.3 litre version foams are 5" diameter. It may not sound like much of a difference but the surface area is massively different and therefore the filtering area is massively different too.
There is only a couple of £ between the different models but it is always the 2.3 litre version I recommend.
@@ThousandYardStare I think they’ve changed the size of the inlet/outlet I checked my purchase and it’s the HW 603b I can see pics online that appear to have the bigger hose but the manual I found on line says 12 mm.
I figured it out, the 603b has a pump and the smaller inlet/outlet hose sizes, 603 has no pump and larger inlet/outlet openings why it’s this way idk but it could be reversed having pump on 603 would make more since.
@@marvinsmartt468 The pictures online are unfortunately poorly labeled as they show the different versions and are randomly labeled as 603 and 603b.
The version without the pump is a proper pre-filter and the version with the pump is designed to be a self contained external filter for a small tank - it's not meant to be used as a pre-filter due t o the fact that it has smaller fittings and a pump which will restrict flow terribly if used as a pre-filter.
The 2.3 litre version of the pre-filter is the only one I would recommend.
@@ThousandYardStare yes it’s utterly ridiculous how poorly they are mislabeled and described. I think I’m gonna just remove it all together and replace with another separate system(fuval 307). That gives me 3 filters, one polar aurora 525 and 2 307’s on a 125 gallon. Going peacock cichlids maybe 20-25. I have set filters up as you and others recommend. Thinks that’s enough?
I run a canister filter with biohome but have not seen a reduction in nitrates. What affect would slowing the flow down make. I am thinking of a big canister with slow flow through biohome . I have German blue rams in a 30 gallon with an eheim Ecco pro and I’m thinking of adding an eheim professional 11 , the flow rate would be too high for the fish so if I slow rate down would the biohome work more effectively?
Slowing the flow can have a massive benefit as far as reducing nitrates go as it allows the media to support a greater percentage of anaerobic activity (bacteria). The lower the flow the greater the percentage of the bacteria will be anaerobic (for reduction of nitrate) and likewise the higher the flow the greater the percentage of bacteria will be aerobic (for reduction of ammonia and nitrite).
Feel free to ring me any time, no worries.
@@pondguru thank you . I thought that might be the case
I have connected the filters in series . Then I turned on the Ecco, the motor is driving the water through both filters so I haven’t turned the big one on . My question is , will it put a strain on motor ?’ Do I need to turn the big one on ?
@@prestonbowers1114 If the flow coming out of the input pipe is fine then there is no need to turn the other filter on but if the flow is low then the pump is straining.
@@pondguru thank you very much
I have been using prime for years😮 now switching to api tap water conditioner.
Hopefully you will notice a change if you've been struggling to achieve a full cycle when everything is in place to make it happen.
Where can I get a new EF-2 booster filter all pond's won't ship to the USA
Ebay has them.
@@kwajrod thanks
Hi can one canister filter running 2 booster
Hi can you use the booster with the Fx6
(my other channel) I'd advise against using the APS booster, even the 2.3 litre version as it will slow the flow down quite a bit for the FX6.
From reading 📖 books and things and ingredients the in water treatment says not to use for fish intended for human consumption and has binding agents in it like sodium thiosulfate
Hello Pondguru. Wanted to take an advice from you regarding whether can we use 2 eheim classic 150s as a pre-filters on the two inlet sides of eheim XL1200 so that we can get more space for bio media in the third tray of XL1200.
(my other channel) That would probably work no problem although there may be issues with the pipe size of the 1200 and 150 not being compatible - you may have to get some step up / down converters for the pipe.
@@ThousandYardStareYes I totally agree with you on that point. Thanks for the advice . Instead of eheim 150 , will go for Netlea G2 Pre Filter as this is newly available in India plus fits pipe size of 16/22 mm of 1200XL.
@@shivamrishi1338 Nice one - that sounds good to me and best of luck with the tank.
@@ThousandYardStare Thanks for your valuable advice. Will look forward to watching your videos on pimp my filter.
@@shivamrishi1338 No worries, any time.
Hi, Can anyone please let me know the model number of the bigger booster filter shown on the video or a link. Thanks.
(my other account) Sorry I forgot to put that in the video description and pinned comment - thanks for the question - the link I will add there now is: geni.us/2bj1
I'm sure I answered this but my reply is not showing - it is: geni.us/2bj1
I forgot to link that in the video description, sorry about that.
Thank you very much.
Your talking about prime.
That is one of the main culprits but here are a few more. I always prefer to remove toxins and let Nature do her job without hindrance hence I would recommend a straightforward conditioner hat does not bind ammonia, nitrite or nitrate for best results.
The nice thing about booster filters is that they are way easier to clean than the big biological filter.
I would appreciate any advice rather from Richard, or anyone else for that matter.
I'm getting back into the hobby after a three years hiatus due to ill health. Not that i'm any better now, i'm never going to get better, but i'm going to be mechanising the things I cannot do without assistance. I would appreciate any opinions on my planned multi stage filtration set up.
Firstly this is going to be a 198l Amazonian Biotope. Moderately heavily stocked, and eventually plenty of plants.
Stage 1: Under gravel filter used as the intake for the main filtration stages. Modified to to create better flow if needed, and using Bio-Gravel media as the substrate.
Stage 2: An inline heater. I know this isn't actually filtration but, i've included it as it is a part of the filtration water course.
Stage 3: An APS EF-2 Booster used as the mechanical pre-filtration stage. This will have ceramic rings filling the bottom dead space, followed by coarse, medium, and fine foams.
Stage 4: An APS EF-2000 Canister filter. I plan to fill the dead space with more ceramic rings, then fill all four trays to the rafters with Bio-Home Ultimate to create a massive biological filter. I reckon due to not having to sacrifice a tray to foams that I can get 6.8 to 7Kg of Bio-Home Ultimate in their depending on how I arrange the media.
Stage 5: Another APS EF-2 booster as a anoxic biofiltering post-filter stage. Again the bottom dead space filled with ceramic rings, then a bag packed with Bio-Gravel to create a dedicated home for anaerobic bacteria, with space to add carbon, or resin if needed.
Stage 6: Radiological filtration in the form of an APS 36W UV.
Please let me know what you think.
It is probably a waste to use the biogravel as a substrate in an under gravel system as the fish will much prefer being on sand in an Amazonian set up (loaches, cory etc. do way better on sand). I'd not bother with the under gravel.
The filter will hold way more media than you need for a full cycle but you can't have too much filter media. The system sounds very comprehensive.
Ring me any time on 07772848730 as I often miss comments and it takes and age to get to emails when they go mad.
Is there a pimp my filter version for Sumps?
Checkout this one from Pondguru: czcams.com/video/Wqt9zA6mqao/video.html
Not in name but I did a sump video a couple of months ago - it will be 2-3 videos back on my channel.
whats the make of the conditioner as i dont know which one it is to sty away from it
(my other channel) In most cases it will be Seachem Prime but there are similar 'conditioners' which have the same devastating effect on bacteria - basically avoid anything which claims to bind / detoxify or remove ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - there aren't many conditioners which mess with the bacteria (starve it) but a long as you use a normal conditioner (e.g.; API stress coat) you can easily achieve a full cycle with a recommended amount of suitable media. Although the manufacturers of the damaging 'conditioners' will claim that 'science' proves that they do no harm they are 100% lying - scientists are bought easier than politicians. If their 'solution' is to buy another one of their products (e.g. stability) to mask the side effects of the initial damaging chemical (e.g. prime) then you know it's a scam operating to a pharmaceutical business template.
@@ThousandYardStare i have fluval conditioner atm . it says it rids heavy metals aswell . is that one ok as ill get api after i finish that bottle of fluval stuff
@@gumpysee3644 (my other channel) Yes that will be no problem - just avoid conditioners which mention removing / detoxifying / binding ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as they lock up the 'food' bacteria needs to prosper.
@@ThousandYardStare thanks fir the advice mate , much appriciated
@@gumpysee3644 No worries, any time.
High pondGuru. Have curious question if you had two booster filters together on the same canister filter would that still work out properly? What would you think about that
Ideally you would only have one pre-filter 'booster' fitted as fitting two of them would certainly reduce the flow and reduce the effectiveness of the main filter - if you feel the need to fit 2 x pre-filters to your canister then it is definitely time to invest in a properly sized canister filter for your tank and forget about farting about with multiple pre-filters.
Could you use two pre-filter booster on
Equal hypermax 4500 or equal uni 700 they both have two intake and two or eheim pro three 12000 XL two intake and one outtake canisters
@@user-ck7wm8uf9s It would work in that scenario since you would have 2 x intake pipes on those types of filters but with the Aquael Hypermax 4500 it has an easy clean pre-filter built into the filter so there is no need to add an extra pre-filter.
I know the equal 4500 has pre-filter it was just throwing in with the other two canisters because that's the only three canisters that I came across with dual oat tapes and intakes would there be any more like them but good and big eyes to equal hypermax 4500 with a booster pre-filter was thinking more media for the filter itself wouldn't that be a little better
@@user-ck7wm8uf9s Spell-check may be playing games with that response as it makes no sense.
As we know its Purigen, does this issue also afflict Prime?
That is the main culprit for delaying the bacteria growth - if you check forums you'll see people struggling after 7-8 weeks to get their ammonia and nitrite to zero and they're being recommended to use a host of other treatments to treat the side effects from the first one - that first part of the cycle should only take 2-3 weeks.
@@pondguru I did notice it taking longer getting full cycle with Prime then normal, the fewer water changes i did the better it went. We might be going back to Tetras Aquasafe or JBL Biotopol.
All our tanks are stable at 5ppm of nitrate at the moment, we water change once a month now. Nitrates never go past 5ppm during this time.
We use 1l of Substrat Pro per 100l of water, static plenum with gravel on top, finished with either sand or aquasoil on top.
@@Kvickification Good stuff, man.
but this trays aren't sealed enough, small debris will be going thru bypassing actual filtering.. It will take much longer to achieve crystal clear water or might be impossible at all.
What ppm do u suggest for coarse and medium foam.
As long as one if finer than the other it doesn't matter what the specific PPI is but the coarse would generally be somewhere between 15PPI - 20PPI and the medium would be around 35PPI - 40PPI
@@pondguru we have a small community here Dubai who are big fans of ur jack video. By the way, biohome is not available here. What is ur opinion on seachem mateix
Matrix
@@benattokaran It is OK bu here are much better grades of white pumice available (at a low cost) - the best non-Biohome media is probably the Substrat Pro from Eheim so that is what I'd recommend if you can't get Biohome.
Monteresti questi prefiltri in un tuo acquario ? Una tua opinione sui raccordi e le clips di chiusura ?
I raccordi sono esattamente gli stessi di un normale filtro a canestro, né migliore né peggiore.
Hai bisogno di un booster solo se vuoi inserire più materiali filtranti nel tuo filtro esistente e non è il genere di cose di cui avrai bisogno se il filtro principale è abbastanza grande per l'acquario e lo stock di pesci.
@@pondguru grazie
If your doing fish in cycle on purpose or by accident then you need to use conditioner that detox ammonia ect
If you use the conditioner with binding agents which restricts the food for bacteria then the first part of the cycle will typically take 7-8 weeks to achieve 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. That is no good as it should only take 2-3 weeks when using a conditioner which doesn't bind / restrict / detoxify ammonia and nitrite.
A simple change can make a hell of a difference to the amount of beneficial bacteria supported in a filter.
@@pondguru problem with that is that ammonia and nitrite are deadly to fish if you use normal one you will have fish dying Iv told to people it slows the cycle down using ones that bind it but they say it’s still available for the bacteria just in a safer form
The booster canister filters..... Do they have their own water pump built in? If the "booster" filters shift less water than the main canister, wouldn't it reduce the overall water rate?
Generally booster filters do not have their own pumps so the booster will move no more or no less water than the main filter - it's simply an in-line filter and as long as you have foams in the booster which aren't too fine you'll not notice a reduction in flow from the main filter.
@@pondguru Thanks.
Brilliant, is API stress coat and Prime ok Mike?
Prime is the main culprit that he’s talking about it sells you a dream but it binds all the ammonia nitrite and nitrate this starving the filter
@@loganbrowne9552 Though Prime does state binding, think it's more Purigen especially when mentioning recharging using cleaning toilets, ie bleach. Not sure why he wont mention it as he has stated in the past not to use Purigen
@@bobsmolinsky5196 when he’s talking about water treatments like stress coat he definitely meant prime
@@bobsmolinsky5196 Was about both of those products
I would always recommend Stress Coat as I've not had any reports regarding cycling problems when using that one. Also when a conditioner which binds the bacteria 'food' is swapped to Stress Coat the system develops how it should and something so simple is the difference between being able to achieve a full cycle and constantly struggling to keep nitrate down when everything else is in place to allow a full cycle.
Can anyone please name the unspoken product as I’m uncertain- thank you x
Seachem Prime and Purigen
Also, Seachem Safe, which is the powder version of liquid Prime.