Detailed GM 6.5 Turbo Diesel Rebuild - Part 6
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Today we dig deeper and begin removing the rods. Oh, and cracks!!!! Yeah, Optimizers crack too.
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Hey guys, we finally move forward with the teardown and get our first look at what few think can happen, a cracked Optimizer. I'll have better pictures in the main article at www.65turbogarage.com/detailed-65-rebuild.html.
And I think this is finally the last video with all that ANNOYING friggen electronic interference.
Enjoy!
SixFiveTurboGarage.com You using a gear drive timing set or the oem chain timing set?
@@mikemcgrew65 I'm using a gear drive set made by DSG that has been discontinued. Leroy Diesel sells the same set some times but he has run out of stock this time around and needs people to let him know that they want a set, when he gets enough people, he'll make another run. You can get a hold of him at his site...
leroydiesel.com/
Awesome! Well not cool about the crack but glad you posted.
Hey Ryan, thanks.
I hopefully will have more coming in the next few weeks.
check the rods to make sure they aren't bent and also main studs will prevent against main cracks and cap walking
Yup, I'm a big fan of finding a good machine shop like Portland Engine Rebuilders, they will check all that when they do the machining.
And main studs? Hmmm... stay tuned. : )>
Nice job on keeping cool as you perform an autopsy on a "friend". But understanding path of carnage is useful even though you already know the "cause of death". Sadly the rapid loss of coolant under load pretty much hit everything, heads, pistons, block but it does not appear it affected the rod bearings which is interesting. How the main bearing at the cracked web in the block will be worth looking at closer as well as the line bore of the mains if the block is to be repaired and used, even if it isn't it would be interesting to have it checked. Also how the heat affected the block deck and head surface will be something to check as well. Thanks for sharing this, not often an "oh crap" moment is documented so it can help others. Many years ago I destroyed an engine with a total coolant loss, I didn't go as far as you are and paid the price, I had the heads rebuilt and put back together. It ran fine for a couple months and then began to deteriorate performance wise because it took off a cam lobe, probably the heat damage. It was a flat tappet cam, not a roller like the 6.5 but there isn't an acceptable short-cut to repairing an engine that overheated under your circumstances. Definitely following this project.
Thanks for the input, Craig. Yeah, this thing is definitely interesting as it develops. The motor is already built at this time but I'm not giving away any hints. : )>
I do think that much of the damage was already done before the coolant loss and the loss maybe just added to it a bit and caused the gaskets to go. But we'll look more at it as we go.
Interested to know your views as it plays out.
And I really want the whole web site and videos to show the whole process, warts and all. You never know what little piece of info may help someone.
My 94 block has the same cracks, and fretting where the caps and block meet. I put loctite retaining compound on the bolts and mating surfaces. Same that was recommended to me for the 5th gear fretting aswell. Im trying to get it back together, we will see how it does. Engine ran great though, only tore down to replace leaky seals...
I've never heard of using lock tight on the caps, I'd be interested in seeing if it works. Later, you'll see me relieve all stress risers in the block along with the bolt holes themselves and then using Quadstars ARP main studs. That along with a full balance job and a Fluidampr is what I'm hoping will prevent any further cracking.
I love the video
Thank you sir!
Those are pretty thick and heavy duty rods and pistons so, why do they say you can't modifie the 6.2 or 6.5 diesel to get more power out of them for fear of blowing them up like you can a Cummins or a Power Stroke?!
Tom, the first and best thing you can do to get great power and reliability out of these motors is completely ignore what "they" say. The diesel world is full of egos, bro science, and ignorance.
There are motors out there with over 600,000 miles on them, some with over 500HP, some doing serious tractor pulls, and many doing regular towing on a daily basis.
Are they as good in some ways as a Cummins? No. They were never built to be. But does that mean they are on the other extreme and complete garbage? Again, no. That's where the egos, bro science, and ignorance comes in.
I've always bin interested in a nice 97-98 gm Z71 6.5 diesel mainly for mpg but I'm scared to buy one specially after seeing this video.
I don't know why this video would scare you, there's nothing at all here that hasn't happened to every vehicle ever made at one time or another (meaning massive failure). And really, you should feel glad to know that there is info like this on the 6.5 so you know how to keep her running so go buy one!
(And FYI, my 8000 lb four door long bed 4 wheel drive gets 18 mpg)
@@SixFiveTurboGaragecom nice I'm wondering how much mpgmy 5200lb regcab 2wd auto will get!
@@snoopwombo You should be able to get 20, I'd think. Mine went up when I got good, quality injectors.
I see you haven’t posted update in 2 years, what did you end up doing with the engine?
Oh, she's running strong!
Believe it or not, I still plan on finishing the videos and articles at some point, there were some major events that pulled me away and I just need things to mellow out a bit so I can concentrate on getting them out.
I got it rebuilt with a few mods along the way and now it's running very well with an A-Team turbo, Feed the Beast mod, maxed out DB2 pump (with a much bigger one planned), water/methanol, and a bunch of other goodies that I'll cover in more detail.
Will this water pump that you have listed part #251-590 or the 251-603 Water pump fit my 95 6.5 i am not running dual thermostats its just stock.
Yes sir, it will fit the 95 block. But you need the matching Hayden 2886 clutch (or your preferred manufacturer) with the spin on style. Hayden is much more heavy duty than any stock level clutch.
You can read about it all here with part numbers, pictures, and info... www.65turbogarage.com/stop-65-overheating.html
I would have thought that piston would have steel ring lands like most diesels do
Wayne, I believe they do. I think only forged aluminum pistons do not have steel ring lands, it's just hard to see them on an old piston.