Let's Dissect an Alternator!
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- This week's video is a follow-up to last week's, where I answered the question "Is my alternator safe with LiFePO4 batteries?" The answer is... it isn't-unless you take precautions.
In this video, I open up an alternator and talk about how it works, common problems and how to fix them , and I show how to install a thermal switch to keep an alternator safer from overheating.
In preparing for this video, I searched eBay again and found a better choice for the thermal switch. This is the same basic thing, but this one is rated for 16A. (That would be more then plenty for any alternator I've seen. Also, it's CHEAPER!)
www.ebay.com/i...
A commenter brought up a concern (thanks Apollo). He thought that the thermal switch might suffer from the back EMF of the coil being disconnected when things overheat. He might be right, though I have seen this done in motors before. Either way, a simple "flyback diode" (Google it) might give extra protection, and is cheap and easy to install.
Another thing that I wish I had talked about in this video was engine room ventilation. It seems basic, but if you keep the air around your alternator cooler, your alternator will run cooler!
(And this is why always say to check the description-I reserve the right to get smarter!)
If you would like to learn more about the BankManager or order one, check out:
www.emilyandcl...
Here is a link to the video where I talk about engine belt upgrade • Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hac...
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There was a time when if you brought your vehicle into the shop for an alternator problem, we'd pull it apart first and most likely repair it. Alternators were expensive and labor was cheap, kinda the opposite of today lol. I rebuilt a lot of carburetors too, another disappearing art. Cheers!
I can still find an auto electrician who rebuilds alternators..l
You can still use your carburetor skills on outboard motors I have to rebuild every one I buy and I got over a dozen motors I love vintage outboard motors
True for just about any part. I asked for a service kit for my car brake cylinder assembly and the assistant said "What's a service kit?"
Now days you just plug your alternator onto a diagnostic tester and it tells you exactly what is wrong with your alternator. So with a little elbow grease and tools you can rebuild it yourself real easy. I don't know why people just don't buy the parts for it a keep them on the boat for when the alternator goes out. And of course it always goes out when you need it.
Generally sailors do what I did I suspect.
Buy a new higher output alternator and carry the whole old (tested) one as a spare.
If things go bad with the new one just swap and look for parts later.
Several thoughts (I'm a retired ME who has worked in high-tech manufacturing. I'm coming at this from an automotive perspective of the alternator and an aerospace perspective of load dump-based spike protection and have limited knowledge of the sailing-specific equipment);
1) There are certainly different alternator/regulator constructions but automotive alternators with internal regulators typically use negative side regulation. They apply positive power from the ignition to one brush and the negative brush grounds through the regulator. Conversely, most external regulators use positive side regulation where one brush is grounded and the other receives the excitation from the positive lead in series with the regulator. I'm using an industrial thermal controller to de-energize a Transpo V2400 external regulator at 120C. I also monitor the alternator temperature and manually reduce alternator excitation to maintain less than 120C so the cutoff doesn't happen (unless I am not paying attention). I have been proposing the use of a KSD9700 to load-shed, B2B chargers, or split charge relays, not shut-down vehicle alternators for several years. I'm operating in the RV space where trucks on the highway cannot tolerate a full shutdown. See my system at;
czcams.com/video/rBS8cHnhILE/video.html
2) Load dump protection (two scenarios):
Scenario 1: An abrupt cutoff to the rotor's ground source can be destructive to the regulator because the spike produced has only one path, THROUGH the regulator to ground. Cutting off the rotor is going to cause all that magnetic energy to collapse and direct a high-voltage spike back into the remaining lead to the regulator. I think there are several solutions;
Solution 1/1: Position the switch on the positive side brush so there is still a ground path from the rotor coil. (I don't think disconnecting either side of the regulator and rotor are a good idea for this reason)
Solution 1/ 2: Place a 5KP20CA (the 20 means 20V, other voltages are available) Littlefuse unidirectional TVS diode in parallel with the KSD9700 so the ground path is present for the above 20V spikes.
Scenario 2: When using an external regulator, the proper way to cut generation is by removing input power TO the regulator, not between the regulator and rotor. This allows some decay to regulator circuitry and allows field excitation to decay, reducing the load dump-induced spike generation in both the rotor and stator. Abruptly cutting excitation power at regulator OUTPUT, leaves the regulator energized and still connected to the positive power output from the alternator. Any resulting load dump creates a positive transient that can easily reach the regulator.
Solution 2/2: As with 1/2 above, using a TVS on the INPUT to the regulator, this time with a 5A mini-ATO fuse in series would go a long way to protect the regulator from load dumps. The purpose of the fuse in series is so that when the TVS fails from a load spike in excess of its capacity (they almost always fail SHORTED), the fuse opens in a few seconds and negates the short circuit (but the TVS protection is now gone).
Thank you for taking the time to add your points to the conversation. I will be sharing with some friends.
Could you also put a power resistor in parallel with the NC thermal switch? That way when the switch opens, the field current will be forced through the resistor, limiting the field current to some fraction of normal instead of fully interrupting it. I suppose it would be wasteful, as well as generating the very heat we are trying to prevent. Maybe a fly-back diode is a better solution.
Rapid changes in field current is what creates the problem. It's likely that reducing it less drastically, but just as instantaneously is going to create the same problem but now a back EMF has a path to the VR. The goal is to reduce excitation AND allow the loaded inductor to dissipate to ground, not through the VR. The parallel resistor could do the former but the latter still goes through this VR
YT deleted my essay length comment and gave no reason why, other than "Spam, deceptive practices and scams policies" Maybe it didn't like me linking to a PDF of a book.
Sorry that happened. Yes CZcams doesn't like links.
Fantastic DIYS info , I’m an electrician, and electronic tech , and still learn something worth wile every time I watch you ! Thanks buddy! Your a real treasure 👍
Nice of you to say Tom
Well Done, once again, Clark. A suggestion might be the teardown and rebuilding of an engine raw water pump, emphasizing the installation and workings of the ceramic seal. Thanks again for doing these.
Good idea
A tip to those working on Japanese parts such as this alternator will be well served to purchase a JIP Phillips screw driver. (JIP) Japanese Industry Phillips head has a particular shape that fits these fasteners a little better. Less tendency to round.
I love your shows! Both about electricity and refrigeration on the boat.. thank you very much!
Thank you.
Worth the repair. Amazing how many owners wining about the cost of replacement with an engine brand blessed unit shipped to them in a foreign port.
Great video! I was a mechanic for years and repaired many alterations, but we always use a paper clip for the brushes, it doesn’t brake and does a clean job ! Your videos are great and will help everyone especially with the new type battery’s 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Clark, between you and Nigel I've got it covered. Thanks
Gold. I’m going to look for your windlass tear down now.
Thanks Clark. Alternators are one of the few things on vehicles I have not ever disassembled. I've not been able to get a couple of things back together without liberal salty words but I now feel that an alternator is well within my skill level. The $20 switch is much cheaper than the couple of hundred dollar Li Bim they're selling for RVs. Keep the good stuff coming.
Recently a Yutuber cruiser with a mid 90's catamaran recently replaced their AGM house bank with 3 large LiFePo batteries. There was some unusual wiring connections between the housebank and one of the starter batteries and the cruiser was worried the LA and LiFePo bats were linked together. I recommended they look at your previous episode for all the reasons/issues in that episode.
In that and this episode, you certainly provide layman cruisers with easy to understand info/education on many boat charging systems. Thanks for all the time and energy you put into your episodes.
So nice of you to say Douglas
Hi Clark, another great video. The only comment for me is that the resolution of the video seemed to be not sharp enough for the intricacies of the detail you were showing in this video. Maybe it was the lighting, I am not sure I am no video expert. Thanks.
You know I'm here, and has some "old knowledge" about "how to"… It's good as long as you can be able to find replacement parts, to do this real engineer mechanics skills. Thanx for sharing!
Parts are easier to find in for example Mexico then the US.
People there fix things.
You make a lot of great videos. This one was particularly clear, in good "flow" and to the point. Thanks a lot. Good stuff to know about 🙂Regards from Peter, Denmark
Thank you Peter.
Would you consider sharing links with friends. I think the last two videos are particularly useful to many people.
Well done, easy to follow directions
Thank you. Rebuilt car alternators before. Had to figure them out. Good vid.
Thanks Clark. Great video. I've always been a little intimidated about tearing into an alternator. I used to rebuild my car's generator almost monthly. Your video has given me renewed confidence. Thanks.
As always, very informative and explained very well.
Thanks. Pass links to your friends please.
Dude! You must be related to “Bill Nye the science guy” ,, your ability to teach and make technical knowledge sound simple is phenomenal! Thank you, what I basically knew about alternators is now just the offer simplistic basics, and now have a better understanding of the actual abilities of the components 😎⛵️
Thanks Phil
I remember when he was a regular on a local late night show on TV when I lived in Seattle.
We were both Boeing engineers.
He got more popular.....
@@EmilyAndClark Heh. Almost Live. Speed Walker. :-)
Yes almost live. I forgot the name.
You can hold the brushes back the same way on starter motors. André in Sydney
Yes.
Nice. I don't expect to take apart my alternator any time soon, but now I may know why my tachometer is intermittent. I'll have to check that connection. Or maybe I need to service my alternator. Thanks.
Short but useful and learning that is always Current. (Sorry, just Winding you up)
Since I took on alternators I've had more puns. What is it with you guys.
Not a one in the comments on my electrical master class yet that I remember.
Love your videos- really hoping we see on the water when we head south
That would be cool.
There are a lot of viewers passing through this time of year.
Great as always, Clark. Consider adding a "how to check each phase, how to check the diode, and how to check the regulator" to this vid. Hi Em!
Can't add to a CZcams video.
That would have been a good idea.
You always do a great job explaining to us common folks. The stick is a great idea... Great job.
Another informative and useful video Clark. Cheers Kevin H
Thanks Kevin
I've never taken an alternator apart. Now I know where the Tacometer gets its information. The thing that makes me happy for this video is that it will help someone else.
I know more about alternators now so I guess you've helped me too. Thanks. Cheers. Have a wonderful day :-)
I just wanted to say….great explanation. I already new much about alternators but your explanation was really simple and to the point.
This is a great video - very well done and thanks - I have a 2GM with a hitachi 35 amp and this will help me trouble shoot - thanks!
I'm a little surprised that alternators don't have their own thermal shut down fuse built into the original design. It would seem to be a critical safety feature to shut down a device that can overheat and cause fires.
They tend to destroy themselves before setting a fire. But yes.
But I guess the switch is likely to fail and need replacement before the alternator would naturally fail.
Now that you know how to replace it, no big deal. But for someone that sees alternators as magic, it's just an early dying device.
In a sailboat, the vessel can be propelled by either wind or an engine. In a motor vehicle (where alternators were developed), there is only one alternative, and having an alternator shut off to protect itself is going to render the vehicle immobile. I think most vehicle owners would want to keep going till the bitter end and have the alternator be the fuse (and that is how automotive designers have designed them). The biggest problem is that people confuse 'rated capacity', a factory bench test, with actual, on-engine or 'continuous capacity' and load the alternator according to their wishes rather than an objective reality. Alternator 'rated capacity' test is done over a couple minutes, according to SAE J56 at 75F in open air, into a resistive load bank. The alternator does not achieve thermal stability during the test. People want to assume the rated capacity is somehow achievable in a hot, constrained engine bay and they could not be further from the truth. A good rule of thumb is a continuous capacity (which is what battery charging demands) is about 1/2 (or a bit more if a higher performance unit) of rated capacity (to keep alternator temps below 120C)
Watch out when separating alternators to ensure that you do not pull the stator from the back cover as you can easily damage the wires connecting the rectifier to the stator, etc, etc. On some the stator has internal fasteners holding it to the front cover so you have to remove all the fasteners holding the terminals and internal electronics to the back cover before you can safely separate the alternator without damaging its internal connections.
On some of the old style diesel specific alternators there may also be a vacuum pump mounted on the back of the alternator so you will need to disconnect the vacuum lines to that pump along with its oil lines (some use engine oil to lubricate them so on the back of the alternator there can be an oil pressure line and oil return line going back to the engine oil pan) being careful not to spill the nice clean sooty black used diesel engine oil anywhere and then remove the pump before servicing the alternator.
Some alternators have a side cover plate over the brush holders making it easier to add the thermal switch or change it to external regulation by simply unscrewing the leads to the brushes and attach the switch/regulator into the circuit.
When you have it apart be sure to check the slip rings from grooving and wear. Most are beefy enough to allow you to machine them down and make them smooth again. You can even use a drill press to spin it up to dress the slip rings if you don't have access to a lathe as long as you have a 5/8 inch or larger chuck on it. I've done this using a small benchtop drill press with an upgraded chuck installed on it. Even if the slip ring is totally destroyed they are relatively inexpensive and not that terribly hard to replace even in the field and on the Hitachi most are less than $10.
Clark -- Now Emily has video evidence showing how all those new scratches got on her table. I keep a pet piece of cardboard with a clean shop towel on hand to put under it to protect the table for these projects.
Best!
Thanks.
Good stuff.
Great video. Thank you for the detailed explanations at every step. ⛵
You're welcome
Thanks Clarke! I found this really helpful to get an idea of how my alternator works. Now I need to find out how to test it, check what it’s putting out, etc. great videos!
On my 1982 Vanagon diesel the Bosch alternator ran for 290k miles when the brushes wore out. All I had to do was replace them through an external port.
Built to be repaired.
As always amazing information! Thanks for sharing and helping.
Thanks for education, Clark!
You're very welcome
Very informative and kind of entertaining video, Clark) As always. Pleasure to watch and learn a trick or two.
Thank You so much for educating this community. Your kindness is always appreciated.
Fair winds and following seas ))) Oh! And calm anchorages, of course ;-))))
Thank You. A lot of information therein to digest. 👍
I've been enjoying you videos from how-to's to budgets to Emily's boat building which I hope to do myself this summer. This one was especially helpful. A few years ago I replaced my Yanmar stock alternator with a Balmar alternator and external regulator. I've been wanting to convert my Yanmar alternator to be able to use as a spare, albeit assuming I adjust the regulator to dial down the demands on the smaller alternator, or add your thermal switch. I've read several instructions on how to convert the alternator and also been advised to just go to an alternator shop. I've been scratching my head on doing it myself as the explanation of which wire to bring out was never as clear cut as yours. After your explanation it is obvious. Also the toothpick trick I didn't really follow until seeing your demonstration. BTW, as far as taking it an alternator shop, in Boston at least, they only know how to order new ones. The art of rebuilding alternators and what that involves is lost around here. I have a 4JH4E and try manage as much of own maintenance as I am comfortable with. That list has continued to grow. The next level up for me is adjusting the valves and removing the injectors to have them checked out and either "fixed' or replaced. If you need to do that to your engine, that would be a great video that seems to have come up short on CZcams. Thanks again to you both!
You're welcome Harry.
Glad it made sense
Great video. Nice to learn from a pro.
Question: using your volt/amp/ohm meter, what pre, inta- and post checks can you perform on your alternator to diagnose it before taking it apart or after reassembly to ensure it should work. Also to check the diodes and regulator? Some sort of a binary check would be useful. Many thanks.
There isn't a lot you can easily do to a static assembled internally regulated alternator.
If it's external you can check the field resistance.
This is an interesting check. Set your multimeter for AC volts and touch it to the output of a running alternator. One with good diodes will show low AC voltage. When a diode fails you see a higher voltage.
Another excellent video Clark!... Thanks
You're welcome
Great job, this was very informative, thanks
You're welcome Dennis
You let me down Clark... I was hoping you were about show me how to purchase a $2 part, to turn that alternator into a 8kW 48V 150A one, saving me $5,000 😜
I'm so sorry I promise next time.
@@EmilyAndClark Emily, can you make sure Clark follows through with that please 😉
I converted a 12v to 24v. You can modify a 12v alternator to a higher voltage by 1) rewind the rotor to a higher resistance. 12v rotors are 1.4 to 1.8 ohms. To go to a higher voltage/resistance, use a slightly smaller wire that is also longer. For 48V, you need 4x or 5.6 ohms... an alternator shop can do this. 2) use a suitable voltage external regulator and brush holder that presents one lead for the regulator and grounds the other. 3) replace the diodes with ones that have a suitably high reverse breakdown such as more than 60V or don't use avalanches diodes at all and add a 60V, 5kw TVS diode on the output. I prefer and use an external diode bridge. Search for '3 phase bridge rectifier' and a 200-300A, 1600PIV diode will pop up inexpensively. If you have a Y wired stator instead of delta, you need an additional single phase bridge. I have a video on building a system with it (on YT , see 'WorkingOnExploring'). I have a schematic at WorkingOnExploring.com/TechDocs.
Do you notice any RF interference in radios taking the AC out of the case?
@@EmilyAndClark None at all. The 4 - 8awg leads are about 3ft long. I had meant to braid them but forgot when the time came to do it so they are just loosely bundled along the same path. We have used XM radio (probably imune from radiated noise) far more than FM or AM and most often have used BT from a phone to the radio and have never detected any signal noise. I think signal noise most likely will be conducted rather than radiated due to the low voltage. The 3-phase AC frequency is likely around (6000RPM x 6 claw pole pairs =) 3.6khz which is well within audible range if there was any. If you think about the likelihood of 60hz/3 phase/240-480V noise in commercial/industrial settings, I don't recall ever having that either. If there were, I think a large capacitor on the DC side of the rectifier would solve it.
Big help, great explanation. Thank you.
Thanks Tom
I need to add thermal switch but it wasn’t clear if it mattered which of wires leading to the brushes you spliced the switch into.
Sorry about that.
Is this a question or just an observation of how I failed you.
Another good video.. thanks Clark !
You're welcome
I really enjoy these kinds of videos. Thanks for sharing
Not hard to find an excuse to tickle the CZcams algorithm: Great educational video, as usual. Thank you!!
PS. Hope by now you're feeling at least a little bit better!!!
This last two days I've made through the bulk of the day without caught suppressant.
Makes me very optimistic this will be shortish
Great video, as always!
Thanks Thero
thank you!
Great series, exact answers to questions i have on upgredes to both boat and RV.
If my lead starting battery is connected to my LiPo4 solar charged house bank, with a battery combiner, and I thermally regulate the alternator, what other issues am I likely to have?
Your LiFePO4 is being charged wrong. Can't charge li like lead. You especially shouldn't float or absorb it.
You might consider www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
I am in the process of phasing out my lead for lithium and have been researching all over. Your pieces on alternator damage got me worried so I looked at installing devices to protect the RVs alternator, i.e. Bank Manager, DC to DC charger, etc., too much money. My RV has a propane/120vac fridge, solar, inverter, generator, etc., so I really don't need to have the alternator sending power to the coach. So I had an epiphiny. Disconnect the cable that runs from the engine compartment to the coach batteries. Did it, truck runs fine, coach is self sufficient. Done.
That works.
Still likely overcharging your Li but pay now or pay later, right. Sometimes you just have to choose your poison.
If you would like to learn more about low current overcharge I suggest Conrad's article linked to the bottom of here
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
As a good place to start.
@EmilyAndClark My solar controller is set to 14.2vdc which I can change. I only use a/c for TV and my PC. No appliances, heating or cooling.
Yep that will kill your Li.
You really can't charge li to a voltage and have long life. I learned that designing the BankManager.
But if I had to choose a voltage it would be 13.8 unless you are charging it hard
@EmilyAndClark I've been using 14.2 on the lead optima d31ms for 16 years. I could turn it down. When not in use, I keep them at 13.2 as recommended by mfg.
I thought you were talking about Li.
what about using an NTC resistor with or instead of the cutoff, so it tapers off the field before (series) cutting completely, or (parallel) tapers after overheat is tripped.
This might be a better way to do this. I didn't have any experience with them
Great Video! I especially liked the q-tip trick
Thanks.
I can't possibly think why Hitachi put tape over it. (There are many holes in the case) except to fake DIY guys into thinking they can't be repaired.
Buy new?? That's sleezy.
Like the episode Clark. I’d not thought of converting to an external regulator before. I’ve had alternator issues recently, and switched to a new factory one. I’m still not happy with the charging profile as it maxes out at 13.9 volts. Do you know of(or a brand you’d recommend)a specific regulator that’d work with a 135 amp alternator? Are there adjustable ones?
If your voltage is not getting high enough especially early in the charge cycle. For an internally regulated alternator be sure to check the voltage right at the alternator. If it's high there your issue isn't the alternator or it's regulator but the wiring. You have voltage drop someplace, find it, fix it, and your alternator will make more power.
@@EmilyAndClark super. Thanks for the advice. I wanted to get a high early alternator, but just didn’t have the money. I will check out the wiring, I’ve just not been able to get to it the last few days. I might also be able to get a slightly smaller pulley to get the low rpm voltages up.
I also may need new batteries. They seem to be a little weak, and may be putting a bit excessive a load on at idle after starting.
The pulley probably won't help much. And might mess up your tach.
You can test that by just revving your engine higher.
Hope you get it worked out. Cheaply.
Many if not most internal regulators have a negative voltage temperature coefficient that reduces output voltage from 14.2 when cold to 13.8 when warm. This is to compensate for the proper charge voltage for a lead acid battery at warm temps.
A good and inexpensive, adjustable regulator is a Transpo V1200 (for 12v systems) or V2400 (for 24v systems). Balmar also sells (the same) one labeled for them.
it's a great thing to know thank you
always fun to watch! Subscribed
Thanks.
If you think your friends might like this stuff please consider sharing links
Excellent tutorial as usual Clark. Cheers. 🙂
Thanks Leo
When choosing a switch, what would be a reasonable shut off/ open temperature?
I chose 110c. Somewhere around there is probably right.
You could contact your alternator maker and ask them a good upper end heat number for your specific unit. They should know as they melt a lot of units in testing.
It has a bit to do with where you mount the sensor.
I learned the long hard way with lithium. If you want to install lithium correctly it's a very expensive upgrade. Just lost an alternator so I threw a deep cycle lead sacrificial battery into the house bank. It may have been the BMS or I have a 300 amp breaker that auto resets.
I choose not to have a breaker on the charge cable now I will take the risk!
I went with Electromaax. But it seems Clark is the only one in the world who finally really figured it out.
Once you know, it's not rocket science. But these companies say easily replace your lead. Just swap it out!!! OMG! wrongggg
You need:
Serpentine belt and pullys
Voltage regulator with all sensors, current, temp, USB to a computer, etc...
A properly sized alternator for your bank
large charging wires
A lead acid battery
Other yet to get :
A supplemental cooling fan = You can get charged up even faster
Clarks battery monitor to put the icing on cake.
Once it works it amazing until there is an EMP/lightning
But then everything goes by by anyway
Reply
Thanks Samaeri,
I'd like to mention my BankManager is so much more than a monitor. It protects your Li from improper charging and allows you to run your old (lead) charge controllers saving you money.
You are so correct. Doing it right is cheaper and easier in the long run. It's just so hard for most people to learn what "right" is
Very cool instructional video. I learned a lot!
Another great video. Did you have to drag that alternator back and forth the teak table?
Actually this table has a "varnish" you can no longer buy. I built it and varnished it in the 90s.
It's crazy hard. But of course it's chipped over the years. I'm just not sure how to remove the stuff it's that hard! Might have to use chemistry.
In short no damage from the alternator . It's seen way worse and really is in need of attention.
Emily made a vinyl table mat for it that I remove when I need to "make a mess" .
@@EmilyAndClark I really enjoy your technical videos.
Keep up the good work.
Full bridge rectifier! Lol, sorry, electroboom moment, great video!
Do a model year 2000th one
Good one 👍 👏 👌
Hi Clark, does Temptress have an electric windlass? Be interesting to see the innards of one of those!
Yes she does.
Next time it needs work...
There is really not much inside them.
Thanx for the tips. 50 years in electronics and I had little experience with alternators til I got the boat. I was curious how to bypass the regulator. I see the thermal switches from 40 to 140 degrees C. 100 C seems pretty hot, is that fine for the bearings or do you recommend something cooler?
I have to tell a story.
We had a tech at Motorola Semiconductor that was good in electronics, but was the worst mechanical guy I ever saw. I was reminded while I watched you reassembling the stator to the back if the alternator, I saw you were about to dump the insulators off if you didn't set the back housing down on the table and insert the stator windings.
We had "boats" that would carry 25 semiconductor wafers. It was common to hold the full boat with the open side up and put an empty boat on top and then flip it over transferring the wafers to the empty boat. This guy did just the opposite. He held the empty boat open side up and tried to put the full boat open side down on top. To make it worse, after he realized the mistake, he tried to stop it and dumped all 25 wafers on the floor. Shattering wafers make an awful noise.
wafer carrier... boat
imgs.search.brave.com/kXGR8_AvLXdmYy08mDxvths66kV5GqUF7Ub4vtKkrHE/rs:fit:860:0:0/g:ce/aHR0cHM6Ly9zLmFs/aWNkbi5jb20vQHNj/MDQva2YvSGU5YzUy/ZmJiMWVkNDRkZDJi/Y2IzMTQyYWFmZjNj/NjAwQi5wbmdfMzAw/eDMwMC5wbmc
Sounds... Expensive
@@EmilyAndClark Yes it was.
Could you respond to my thermal breaker question?
I'm not expert there. I looked up a good temperature based on the magnet wire insolation and my.memory of alternators I've owned and used that for buying the switch I used in the video.
If you want better numbers check with your alternator manufacturer. They will have max temp listed
@@EmilyAndClark Thanx.
Is the fact that I have an Argofet that dispach the charge between the Engine Battery (lead) and the LiFePO4 service pack will protect the alternator from a brutal cut?
I don't know that device. I really only advise the BankManager hybrid approach here as it's the only way to charge your Li correctly
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
I have the same question, how is the Argofet doing in your system? And did you took some other gear to protect your alternator?
So the engine RPMs are measure using the alternator?
Very often.
Diesels don't have a handy ignition system to get the pulses from.
If you swap to an alternator with a different number of poles you need to recalibrate your tachometer.
thank you this is amazing~
Can you send me informatio on your battery monitor, I am worried about smoking the Diodes when the BMS shuts down while charging the LiFe Po4 batteries
It's all in the description but sure, most of it is here or linked to here.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
Thanks. I have a permanent magnet type alternator with a built in regulator. I want it to sense the battery voltage externally from the actual battery leads. Any suggestions appreciated.
Permanent magnet alternators, like my wind generator design, can't be throttled directly. You have to mess with their output. Usually by just turning them off.
Well you can go the dynamic ideal diode route but that's a big project
@@EmilyAndClark thanks for the reply. I can already setpoint voltage point with a pot on the regulator on my alternator and the wind generator. In this case, I wish to control the voltage the alternator senses from the batteries so when voltage it senses is at setpoint, it effectively turns off. In that way, I can have my lithium BMS tell my special little circuit that the max amps before charge limit is hit is being approached. I can then signal to the regulator that the battery voltage is higher than it really may be. That will reduce alternator output and protect diodes should the BMS open the circuit. I have not yet opened up the wind generator but I’m less concerned about a load dump there. My plan is to take the BMSs charge disable output and use a DPDT relay to short the wind alternator. I can’t do that with the engine alternator obviously.
Just don't count on BMS to control charge.
But you already know my thoughts on that and the low current overcharge issue.
@@EmilyAndClark I’m firmly in the camp of all charging to stop when finished. I just don’t want that stop to occur when the alternator is cranking.
Hi, the link for the thermal Switch is not working anymore, do you have a ref? All the 16A I have seen are for 220V. Does-it matters?
The voltage isn't critical. If it can switch 16a at 220 I'm sure it can switch the 8 or so amps the field uses.
Some alternators are already thermally protected. How do I find out for a 2001 Ford 130amp?
I don't know.
Anyone?
@@EmilyAndClark It's in my RV as power for the drive train and also sends some power to the coach when it is running. I am planning to add 100 or 200 Ah lifepo4 to the coach. It still has 3 75Ah Opdima D31m that are fading but still ok.
Um, is a 16 Amp thermal fuse enough for a 50+ amp alternator? 100 amp?
Yes the field coil doesn't see the full current. That goes through the stator coils.
😎
where ndo you put the temp switch on a brushless alternator?
Brushless alternator?
Like a permanent magnet alternator? They aren't regulated and not really used in this application unless I'm missing something.
I designed one for my wind generator but I don't regulate it I dump the power.
Interestingly I dump the power back into its coils so it magnetically breaks its self. It can stop itself in very high winds.
@@EmilyAndClark buses being converted to RV's.... not uncommon, Can have Leece Neville and/or Neihoff brushless alts. Think some of the Big trucks and high end RV's also.
Granted that is not your main market.
Mechanic messing up the. Gorgeous saloon table 😂😂😂
It's really not that gorgeous anymore. I built it 30 years ago and haven't refinished it since.
Usually has a nice vinyl table pad, removed for this project.
But thanks.
Thanks for the demo
Do you still use your wind generator?
Not really. With 900w of solar we have plenty of power. Even with the AC running all night we are full by 1pm.
Emily had me mount it for the last few years as decoration. She sees it as sculpture. When I took it down for the trip I saw some magnet damage. Have to address that if I want to use it again.
i use a small power 120 inverter to charge my battery bank on my rv keeping systems sepperate ????is this bad???
Well it's at least wasteful.
Inverter loss is like 20 percent then charger loss is similar.
And the power can only go in one direction if your source battery is low your target battery can't help.
Putting the batteries in a hybrid configuration and using a BankManager to keep it managed gives you nearly 100 percent efficiency and the power can move bidirectionally when necessary.
@@EmilyAndClark Im running a small alt but have plenty of power can or how can I just run in to my expense solar controller???
Thru the 12vbattery charger input
The other issue is that your current charger doesn't know how to charge li for long life.
Check out today's video. Conrad explains it.
But of course you can charge any way you like.
@@EmilyAndClark I'm finding solar a joke and not worth the investment maintenance.&.cargo space on top just panels getting weaker with little age????
Thinking a small gen ... maybe more batteries???
@@EmilyAndClark it does....it's a smart one charger 10amp... but 40%waste????I could throw them solar panels in the trash where they belong big investment little returns...
W D 40 is not lube its a water displacer ...what the WD stands for .....
Makes you wonder why all alternators don't just include a temperature protection switch internally.....
Yeah, right
Do you have an autopilot linear drive you can pull apart?
It's a great idea. They fail a lot and if you carry a 50 cent thrust bearing you could fix one in the field with the know how.
The other way to go is to get an electric hydraulic actuator. They last about forever.
Sadly since I went that route about 25 years ago I don't have the mechanical type available for demonstration. Well sadly for video purposes. I've been really happy with my "octopus" drive unit from BC.
Clark don’t hesitate to clue us in on the conversion of the autopilot drive from electro-mechanical to hydraulic…PLEASE! Plastic gears in a linear drive, that’s what you need on passage, stripped gears.
That issue has come up a lot lately. Have to consider that.
I feel like Patrick from SpongeBob on this one. Good luck re-assembling this thing. Oops.
Best damned alternator class I’ve ever had! Thanks AGAIN Clark 😊…
Your welcome.