These video presentations are probably the best I've seen for tree falling processes & methods. The explanations are clear, with excellent video and/or clear illustrations to accompany the explanations. Clear instruction is so important, since there is very little margin for misunderstanding in this line of work.
This one video is actually good! Shows a proper way to fall trees. Some others just pretend they're a professionals teaching people to do it wrong or complicated way...
Pretty complete, no-nonsense tutorial. You can hear other chainsaw going in the demo video... that must be the "don't ever, ever do it this way" video series in the making.
To those that say the video is missing something, please notice that it is most likely covered in just as much depth in another video of the series. No training is perfect, but this is about as close as youtube gets.
I watch the entire video, and I did not see this explained. I do not think you saw it in this video but maybe another one. And it is described in other CZcams channels as well. Maybe I missed it and you can put in the timestamp where it occurred. Thanks
I noticed in other training methods where they have 50lbs of safety gear, helmets & several wedges, etc, etc. They focus on safety - go figure- but often stop a number of times while pre- finishing up a simple cut & surveying the tree @ the base by looking & leaning around the base cut area before finishing the cut. More accidents happen by stopping your cut to place wedges or verify your cut over & over, etc. Be sure of what your doing & finish what you start unless u see something in the process that demands u stop. Poking & peeking around the base to verify your cut over & over is just asking for an accident. All the weight is on that bottom & can unexpectedly split & anytime. Don't stay in a position any longer than necessary once you've determined a course of action. These videos are showing individuals with much experience & not your average user.
Well it's also incredibly unsafe to run away from a falling tree, you put the saw down behind an obstacle so it's safe, pound your wedges and when the tree starts to fall, you calmly back away from the tree always keeping your eye on it.
Humboldt 0:05, 6:19: Safest for most situations. - Top: square - Bottom: slope - Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree - Opening: 1/2 depth of undercut - Back: 3/4 to 1 in. above undercut Conventional 12:04, 13:12: Leaves a flatter and possibly shorter stump. - Top: slope - Bottom: square - Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree - Opening: 1/2 depth of undercut - Back: min 2 in. above undercut Swanson 14:18, 16:02: Humboldt cut with a wider opening. Less chance breakage. Should only be use on green trees with a small crown. - Top: square - Bottom: slope - Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree - Opening: equal to depth of undercut - Back: 3/4 to 1 in. above undercut Pie 18:23, 20:14: Decreases chance of barber chairing. Should be used on frozen trees, or heavy leaners with brittle wood. - Top: slope - Bottom: slope - Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree - Opening: equal to depth of undercut - Back: min 2 in. above undercut
No I do that to my own saws all the time, never broke anything yet after years of doing it. I think most guys get tired of bending over just to set it down, but if I'm not in a hurry I try to lean mine up against something or put it on a stump or something high enough where I don't have to bend over to grab it.
Same I toss my saw when I'm cutting I'll just buy another one with the big saw bucks lol but I'd rather lose a saw then a life safety first if you don't feel comfortable around it shouldn't be running it always have two 45° escape routes as well seems to help
These days, the pie cut might be known as the birds mouth if they didn’t mention that. In federal training, it is taught to be a 100° angle opening to allow the tree to actually stay attached to the stump when it makes contact with the ground.
Great video series. I'm not sure what the stats are in Canada, but forestry in New Zealand takes more lives than any other industry. I would like to see what "WorkSafe New Zealand" has as a similar detailed training videos..
Getting to be a vintage video, still valid. The thing that I noticed was the radio on his belt, That, of all the rules, regs, and general safety improvements, carrying communication device should have been law decades ago.
Greg Taylor safety is more important than the saw. You can move farther away in the same time without carrying the saw. They’re doing this many times a day, so every little thing to increase safety helps.
Hinge height is mostly irrelevant to hold the hinge as fibers have almost no horizontal shear strength. It's mostly to prevent the butt of the tree from sliding back. If your back cut is too high you run the risk of fibers going diagonally which could create a larger or smaller hinge even if you're vertically aligned with the back of your face cut. Essentially, you need a back cut high enough to prevent the butt from jumping over the stump (which would also create side shear, jeopardizing the integrity of your hinge), but low enough to ensure your hinge remains consistent with your felling plan even if fibers aren't straight. 3/4 to 1 inch is a good guideline.
Ben L-P Finally...an well thought-out comment! I agree that the height of the backcut is somewhat irrelevant...mine are usually about 1" - 2" higher (depending on tree diameter) because that's how I learned, but I've known very competent fellers that use a flush backcut. I've always thought that the argument about a higher hinge "catching" the butt to keep it from sliding back is not a valid point. In 25 years of cutting, I've never seen a a butt log prevented from sliding by a "step" , whether falling uphill, downhill, flat or across the contour...in virtually all cases, the butt ends up far enough off the front of the stump (sometimes by quite a bit) that the backcut height is a moot point!
I didn't knew Alexander von Humboldt was a feller maybe there was a similar name , I am sure there are different writings of this name ...mhhh Greetings from Germany
i have seen this also, i did not walk the same for a few days...(i am laughing now, but i was not then) Thank God we are still alive. Amen. ...........Take care..
Nice how WCB shoots their "how it outta be done" video on nice flat ground, that in reality is all done by machines now... fallers have to work on ground you can barely stand on.
What did we ever do before chain brakes 😜 I don't pop the brake when walking , but then I usually throw the saw up on my shoulder if I have far to go. Lots of names for different faces. The Swanson is good if you want to keep a real limb red cedar limbs down . Or when I want to keep a tree up on the side of a draw or from running top first down hill . I will double gun the Humboldt face with a steeper section sighted a bit more up the hill. Lets the butt drop sooner and keeps the top up on the level. As long as there are some stumps to catch it.
And none of them looked up enough for my liking. One of them obviously seldom uses his face screen in real life. Obvious how he flips it up before looking up the tree, then doesn't flip it down before finishing his cut. I also agree that once the backcut is started, ya keep cutting until the tree is doing what I want. Other than having to beat a wedge. But then I don't beat wedges too often.
There should ideally always be 2 escape routes at 45 degrees on either side of the tree but sometimes there's only one (especially in steep terrain) and that's all there is to it. Ideally, he should've aimed to finish the cut on the other side though to avoid having to walk behind the tree - I'll grant you that...
Demonstration at 8:30 - 11:50 looks a bit iffy. Initial undercut ends up wasting some wood and in subsequent back cuts it looks like faller is not engaging chain brake when letting the saw out of his hands.
They are definitely making it look easy. Pro's with sharp saws, soft wood (mostly that was Doug fir and Western Red Cedar) and pro quality saws with some guts.
I was thinking exactly the same, i would imagine its alot easier when your saw is almost the as long as if not longer than the width of the tree, i have to make do with an ms260 which gets the job done but wish i had bigger, don't we all :)
Yea I own the big stihl in this video and it is glorious. It eats through trees in twice the speed of my smaller saws, but it was 1300 bucks. Still a strong saw with a sharp blade gets the job done safely with minimal time in the danger zone and if your going to be using a 32 inch bar or more you need a big saw to drive it. These saws are beasts. The 661 I have was one of the best investments I ever made, though a lot of guys prefer the 441 for weight. But I’ve dropped big trees with the farm boss and it’s done ok, it doesn’t eat through the big wood like the 661. First time I used the 661 I almost couldn’t believe how fast it dropped the 30 inch tree I was working - it was epic. Stihl makes tungsten blades that stay sharp 4-5 times the cheaper steel blades most manufacturers use and if I can I run that because it really is excellent, but you can keep a saw cutting fast just by sharpening frequently. Saws need love and personal care. If you take care of them they take care of you. That’s how you know a sawyer.
I have the ms261 with 16" bar and ms170 and bought the ms461R and the 461 is a mans saw lol. Its heavy and will slice up an 25" oak tree without any trouble.
I don't understand what the big deal is about setting the chain brake. I understand it's functionality for stopping the chain in the event of a kickback; but otherwise; who cares if there's one there or not? I cut a lot of 30"-40" oaks in my younger years; with 100+cc saws; and never used the brake. I don't even know if my saws even HAD a chain brake. Please tell me what the fuss is about the chain brake!
Good video except a few things. Some of your stumps were way too tall and even up to your guy's waste! You get out on the cost with big tall timber & you'll have to keep trimming stumps all day and even then you're going to break a lot of timber and If you're using a track skidder of any kind, like an FMC track skidder or even a cat, you're going to run the Machine off the tracks, specially on any kind of steep ground! And for your wedge, the bigger the tree the thicker the wedge you want & and you should always try to keep your stump as low as possible no matter what! And on the first bigger tree that your first guy had, he still left the wedge/face the same thickness as the small tree before. Like you said 1/3 of the way into your tree and the wedge should be 1/2 of that depth in thickness or sometimes wider as you demonstrated on certain trees AND whenever you're cutting any timber on a hill, you always want to stand on the upper side of the tree when you're making your back cuts and make sure your cuts match perfect on the upper side of your tree so your cuts match proper at the edge of your holding wood, so you can keep your tree on the hill & keep it from going down the hill!
If you overshoot at one spot, you create a new hinge line too far back. Then when the tree starts to move, after only a slight pivot, there is no more space to close, and the hinge has to break - no more control of the tree.
Also, your hinge should be in the softer wood. If you chase it in too far, to get into harder wood, again, breaking your hinge and losing control. www.highlandscashiersproperties.com
A man waste killed felling a tree not far from me, here in New Zealand. The accident was investigated, but NZ worksafe don't seem to understand its a perfect opportunity to educate everyone who also fells trees.
If he used the same technique on large hardwood he would have split ( and ruined ) at least half. After you finish your underct work an addl few inches on each side. Starting at each edge of the underct.
Pretty common with pros that can dress a chain in a minute, and smart enough not to waste energy holding a saws weight all day. Clue one he’s a real pro....he doesn’t own a Stihl
Rich, this is what guys who cut logs all day, every day do. It is just a quick little rest stop. It doesn't hurt the bar at all, and dulls the chain very little. If the chain were moving, that would be a different story, but this guy is just gently resting the saw in some soft duff.
Find information and resources on manual falling & bucking here: www.worksafebc.com/en/health-safety/industries/forestry/types/manual-falling-bucking
This is the best instructional video on proper falling techniques.Very well done.
Cant wait to go down to the park and try this out!
Bro did it go well?
How’d it go?
Wait.....the park?
Been there, done that. They don't like it much.
No trees... No forest fires👍
These video presentations are probably the best I've seen for tree falling processes & methods. The explanations are clear, with excellent video and/or clear illustrations to accompany the explanations. Clear instruction is so important, since there is very little margin for misunderstanding in this line of work.
This guy actually knows his shit. He don't stand around talking your ear off like "look at me look at me" like that other training video guy does.
Awesome training videos, I am a new feller and have learned so much from these videos
Thanks very much for this post!
On my second time going through the series.
...besides that; thanks for putting this set of videos together. I've watched them all, more than once.
This one video is actually good! Shows a proper way to fall trees. Some others just pretend they're a professionals teaching people to do it wrong or complicated way...
Pros at work love it
Thank you for sharing this Very informative video.
Outstanding.
Man I love this stuff, thanks for the uploader!
Pretty complete, no-nonsense tutorial. You can hear other chainsaw going in the demo video... that must be the "don't ever, ever do it this way" video series in the making.
I make it a point to watch these once a year. Great videos.
This is by far the best tree falling on you tube other then Buckin Billy Ray.
gunlover1955, hotsaws is good as well
These guys are way more professional and better trained than BBR. You don’t hear the fallers tap dancing on the trigger like many other videos….
To those that say the video is missing something, please notice that it is most likely covered in just as much depth in another video of the series. No training is perfect, but this is about as close as youtube gets.
Hi BC. Good to connect with you. I was also a tree surgeon!
Me too
Very useful and very very informative. Thankyou.
Thanks great series
Great tutorial!
0:00 Humbolt-Small
1:41 Humbolt-Small
3:37 Humbolt-Large
8:23 Humbolt-Large
12:04 Conventional
14:18 Swanson
18:23 Pie
Andrija Cvjetkovic e uo
Thanks for this excellent video,I found it very well explained and filmed I have learnt so much cheers.
First and best explanation of WHY the humbolt undercut is the best, most proper technique. I get it now. Thank you. 🫡🙏
Great info, thanks.
Very good video thanks for posting,
Great sharpness !
Thanks for posting
Thes videos are what helped me improve
Watch @buckinbillyray vids. You'll laugh and learn.
These videos got me sobered up and haven't touched the bottle ever since.
Great, real deal video
Excellent instruction. Thank You.
First time I have seen a video show an angled hinge to control the direction of the fall. Nice.
I watch the entire video, and I did not see this explained. I do not think you saw it in this video but maybe another one. And it is described in other CZcams channels as well. Maybe I missed it and you can put in the timestamp where it occurred. Thanks
The one thing I noticed everyone did wrong in this video, absolutely no one yelled "TIMBER"......
Learned a lot... Thanks 🙏👍
That is some beautiful wood.
I noticed in other training methods where they have 50lbs of safety gear, helmets & several wedges, etc, etc. They focus on safety - go figure- but often stop a number of times while pre- finishing up a simple cut & surveying the tree @ the base by looking & leaning around the base cut area before finishing the cut. More accidents happen by stopping your cut to place wedges or verify your cut over & over, etc. Be sure of what your doing & finish what you start unless u see something in the process that demands u stop. Poking & peeking around the base to verify your cut over & over is just asking for an accident. All the weight is on that bottom & can unexpectedly split & anytime. Don't stay in a position any longer than necessary once you've determined a course of action. These videos are showing individuals with much experience & not your average user.
Well it's also incredibly unsafe to run away from a falling tree, you put the saw down behind an obstacle so it's safe, pound your wedges and when the tree starts to fall, you calmly back away from the tree always keeping your eye on it.
Kurt Cooper lib
I always take my saw because it's mine.
@@MrThenry1988 god damn right. Thats why i always have a a clean escape route so that my saw can come with me.
@@austindenotter19 no shit brother
Those guys make it look easy.
so what do you do if the tree that is indicated that needs cutting down(marked) is surrounded by other trees in the forest?
Humboldt 0:05, 6:19:
Safest for most situations.
- Top: square
- Bottom: slope
- Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree
- Opening: 1/2 depth of undercut
- Back: 3/4 to 1 in. above undercut
Conventional 12:04, 13:12:
Leaves a flatter and possibly shorter stump.
- Top: slope
- Bottom: square
- Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree
- Opening: 1/2 depth of undercut
- Back: min 2 in. above undercut
Swanson 14:18, 16:02:
Humboldt cut with a wider opening. Less chance breakage. Should only be use on green trees with a small crown.
- Top: square
- Bottom: slope
- Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree
- Opening: equal to depth of undercut
- Back: 3/4 to 1 in. above undercut
Pie 18:23, 20:14:
Decreases chance of barber chairing. Should be used on frozen trees, or heavy leaners with brittle wood.
- Top: slope
- Bottom: slope
- Depth: 1/3 diameter of tree
- Opening: equal to depth of undercut
- Back: min 2 in. above undercut
Something about tossing the saw on the ground and running away tells me it ain't his saw. 😆
No I do that to my own saws all the time, never broke anything yet after years of doing it. I think most guys get tired of bending over just to set it down, but if I'm not in a hurry I try to lean mine up against something or put it on a stump or something high enough where I don't have to bend over to grab it.
These saws are incredibly rugged dude! I drop mine all the time and it really doesn't hurt it.
Same I toss my saw when I'm cutting I'll just buy another one with the big saw bucks lol but I'd rather lose a saw then a life safety first if you don't feel comfortable around it shouldn't be running it always have two 45° escape routes as well seems to help
And more safety precautions
Nice holding wood. Beautiful cut
Bon travail bravo
Very good at operating chainsaws ..
eagerly awaited the next video
You can also open your undercuts if you need more tree travel without braking off the stump or to make it fall closer to a stump, not jumping off.
I didn't get the pie cut thing but here in Australia we never use Humboldt type scarfs, great control by all the fallers
Conventional scarfs all day everyday for me, I've been getting plenty of practice in lately.
These days, the pie cut might be known as the birds mouth if they didn’t mention that. In federal training, it is taught to be a 100° angle opening to allow the tree to actually stay attached to the stump when it makes contact with the ground.
Great video series. I'm not sure what the stats are in Canada, but forestry in New Zealand takes more lives than any other industry. I would like to see what "WorkSafe New Zealand" has as a similar detailed training videos..
👍👍👍👍🌲
V.good cuting skill 👍👍👍🌲
First cut down first and up 2nd cut....before backed cut...this v.good skill i now...
The stats in Canada are just as bad... that's why WCB did these.
I know Forestry is one of the most dangerous industries in North America. You would be safer in the former Yugoslavia circa 1993-2000.
nice saw
Didn't put his break on this time when leaving the saw and cheeking around the tree.i'm a total.a newbie..
I fell asleep and I ended in this video. I don't know what it is about but I found the chainsaws very relaxing
Getting to be a vintage video, still valid. The thing that I noticed was the radio on his belt, That, of all the rules, regs, and general safety improvements, carrying communication device should have been law decades ago.
And the first aid kit. 👍
Which btw…should contain at least one feminine pad product.
Vak mannen zijn het top
Thank you. I have a hard time making nice level vs crooked cuts. Think they should put a bubble level on the saw. Maybe a laser line of some sort.
Practice makes perfect, as long as they go where you wan't them to, it's not an exact science.
I mark my plan with chalk...improves my accuracy
nice
Very helpful. Thank you
I mark my cutting plan with chalk. This improves my accuracy and reduces stress during the cut.
On the tree with chalk?
They leave the saw right by the falling tree. Amusing.
Greg Taylor safety is more important than the saw. You can move farther away in the same time without carrying the saw. They’re doing this many times a day, so every little thing to increase safety helps.
Gooodd ❤️❤️🔥
I got to say the second guy,s handy with the axe head
12:15 I was always taught to take the brake off with my left hand not right
Why do they put the nose of the saw in the dirt? Crazy sharp saw too.
I was wondering the same thing
It sharpens the chain. Really?....I've been doing it for 35 years, it doesn't hurt the chain.
No trees were harmed in the making of this video
Just feelings.
Nice Dutchman buddy
Rod Tassé was looking for that comment!!!... that is a no go
Semangat kawan🙏
But how far above the undercut do you start the back cut, 1", 1.5", 2"?
The video said between 3/4" and 1"
Depends on tree size and lean,condition few factors that determin amount of henge you need for directional fell.
Hinge height is mostly irrelevant to hold the hinge as fibers have almost no horizontal shear strength. It's mostly to prevent the butt of the tree from sliding back. If your back cut is too high you run the risk of fibers going diagonally which could create a larger or smaller hinge even if you're vertically aligned with the back of your face cut. Essentially, you need a back cut high enough to prevent the butt from jumping over the stump (which would also create side shear, jeopardizing the integrity of your hinge), but low enough to ensure your hinge remains consistent with your felling plan even if fibers aren't straight. 3/4 to 1 inch is a good guideline.
Ben L-P Finally...an well thought-out comment! I agree that the height of the backcut is somewhat irrelevant...mine are usually about 1" - 2" higher (depending on tree diameter) because that's how I learned, but I've known very competent fellers that use a flush backcut. I've always thought that the argument about a higher hinge "catching" the butt to keep it from sliding back is not a valid point. In 25 years of cutting, I've never seen a a butt log prevented from sliding by a "step" , whether falling uphill, downhill, flat or across the contour...in virtually all cases, the butt ends up far enough off the front of the stump (sometimes by quite a bit) that the backcut height is a moot point!
@@thechronicgeneralist Beautifully explained Ben
10:00 he doesn’t engage the chain brake!
I thought the same thing
RIP to all fallen trees. Respect to the guy who did in most respectful fashion. We owe trees everything
I'm sure no one else cares, but there is a "d" in Humboldt.
I didn't knew Alexander von Humboldt was a feller maybe there was a similar name , I am sure there are different writings of this name ...mhhh
Greetings from Germany
@@solsirius5582 he was a feller. He was a good ole feller. ☺
👍👍👍🙏
Ron Swanson has an awesome saw...
Don't forget the Angry Beaver cut! That's when you stack up about 5 leaders and they just won't push it over! Goddammit!
Is that what he DID!! >Yes!
I cut a tree down once and it stood upside down. Darnedest thing Ya ever seen
i have seen this also, i did not walk the same for a few days...(i am laughing now, but i was not then) Thank God we are still alive. Amen. ...........Take care..
Gee it even looks like Ron!
Chuck Norris doesn't use a wedge... just uses his finger.
jsnbdr fake news
Chuck Norris doesn’t use a chainsaw or an axe. He’s just karate chops thru entire stands….
These guys know how to drop trees.
Nice how WCB shoots their "how it outta be done" video on nice flat ground, that in reality is all done by machines now... fallers have to work on ground you can barely stand on.
9:50 - Faller does not follow earlier principle of applying chain brake before venturing to look at cut. tisk tisk...
What did we ever do before chain brakes 😜
I don't pop the brake when walking , but then I usually throw the saw up on my shoulder if I have far to go.
Lots of names for different faces.
The Swanson is good if you want to keep a real limb red cedar limbs down . Or when I want to keep a tree up on the side of a draw or from running top first down hill . I will double gun the Humboldt face with a steeper section sighted a bit more up the hill. Lets the butt drop sooner and keeps the top up on the level. As long as there are some stumps to catch it.
And none of them looked up enough for my liking.
One of them obviously seldom uses his face screen in real life. Obvious how he flips it up before looking up the tree, then doesn't flip it down before finishing his cut.
I also agree that once the backcut is started, ya keep cutting until the tree is doing what I want. Other than having to beat a wedge.
But then I don't beat wedges too often.
Like
It would seem to me that uppercuts would be the safest wast to drop just about any tree. Even one being felled uphill against gravity. Am I wrong?
yes you are wrong
Brian Campbell reason being? thanks for the response
Bill Smith the undercut or face cut can help control how the trunk of the tree will behave after the hinge has broken
8:03.....walks right behind the tree. A barber chair at that moment would flatten him
There should ideally always be 2 escape routes at 45 degrees on either side of the tree but sometimes there's only one (especially in steep terrain) and that's all there is to it. Ideally, he should've aimed to finish the cut on the other side though to avoid having to walk behind the tree - I'll grant you that...
Its cut up. It has no way of chairing.
To far along for that.
2:47 "notice the faller sets his chain brake whenever moving away from the saw."
2:19 sets saw down without setting chain brake.
Hey, maybe it is named after someone who’s family doesn’t spell it with the d?
Europeans need too stick with European trees. These are the best cutting videos I've seen.... From an old Oregon Faller.
@9:54 He doesn't set the chain-break when he moves around.
Demonstration at 8:30 - 11:50 looks a bit iffy. Initial undercut ends up wasting some wood and in subsequent back cuts it looks like faller is not engaging chain brake when letting the saw out of his hands.
at 10:05 he didn't use his brakes
Those hinges are pretty thin.. I learned 1/10 of the tree diameter is safe
maggithemp i argue that so long as there is an inch or two it should be enough but that should be the minimum
Species of tree determines how much holding wood you need as well.
Amen Victor 👍🏻👍🏻
Is that a soft wood or is you saw just that sharp??
They are definitely making it look easy. Pro's with sharp saws, soft wood (mostly that was Doug fir and Western Red Cedar) and pro quality saws with some guts.
I was thinking exactly the same, i would imagine its alot easier when your saw is almost the as long as if not longer than the width of the tree, i have to make do with an ms260 which gets the job done but wish i had bigger, don't we all :)
Yea I own the big stihl in this video and it is glorious. It eats through trees in twice the speed of my smaller saws, but it was 1300 bucks. Still a strong saw with a sharp blade gets the job done safely with minimal time in the danger zone and if your going to be using a 32 inch bar or more you need a big saw to drive it. These saws are beasts. The 661 I have was one of the best investments I ever made, though a lot of guys prefer the 441 for weight. But I’ve dropped big trees with the farm boss and it’s done ok, it doesn’t eat through the big wood like the 661. First time I used the 661 I almost couldn’t believe how fast it dropped the 30 inch tree I was working - it was epic. Stihl makes tungsten blades that stay sharp 4-5 times the cheaper steel blades most manufacturers use and if I can I run that because it really is excellent, but you can keep a saw cutting fast just by sharpening frequently.
Saws need love and personal care. If you take care of them they take care of you. That’s how you know a sawyer.
I have the ms261 with 16" bar and ms170 and bought the ms461R and the 461 is a mans saw lol. Its heavy and will slice up an 25" oak tree without any trouble.
Ms 650 here, what’s bad is when you don’t press the compression release button-
I don't understand what the big deal is about setting the chain brake. I understand it's functionality for stopping the chain in the event of a kickback; but otherwise; who cares if there's one there or not?
I cut a lot of 30"-40" oaks in my younger years; with 100+cc saws; and never used the brake.
I don't even know if my saws even HAD a chain brake. Please tell me what the fuss is about the chain brake!
Forgot to do the side cuts
me the lumberjack professionals I work well with the chainsaw I look for the contract of work in the forest thank you very much
Good video except a few things. Some of your stumps were way too tall and even up to your guy's waste! You get out on the cost with big tall timber & you'll have to keep trimming stumps all day and even then you're going to break a lot of timber and If you're using a track skidder of any kind, like an FMC track skidder or even a cat, you're going to run the Machine off the tracks, specially on any kind of steep ground! And for your wedge, the bigger the tree the thicker the wedge you want & and you should always try to keep your stump as low as possible no matter what! And on the first bigger tree that your first guy had, he still left the wedge/face the same thickness as the small tree before. Like you said 1/3 of the way into your tree and the wedge should be 1/2 of that depth in thickness or sometimes wider as you demonstrated on certain trees AND whenever you're cutting any timber on a hill, you always want to stand on the upper side of the tree when you're making your back cuts and make sure your cuts match perfect on the upper side of your tree so your cuts match proper at the edge of your holding wood, so you can keep your tree on the hill & keep it from going down the hill!
What about High lead logging ?
Why is it dangerous to chase your undercut?
If you overshoot at one spot, you create a new hinge line too far back. Then when the tree starts to move, after only a slight pivot, there is no more space to close, and the hinge has to break - no more control of the tree.
Also, your hinge should be in the softer wood. If you chase it in too far, to get into harder wood, again, breaking your hinge and losing control. www.highlandscashiersproperties.com
You lose directional control of the tree
A man waste killed felling a tree not far from me, here in New Zealand.
The accident was investigated, but NZ worksafe don't seem to understand its a perfect opportunity to educate everyone who also fells trees.
Not a bad job,butttttt no mention of the wind that day, big factor......
Wind in forest?
Yes like falling limbs , like widow makers !
Never go infront???
Those are some of the highest stumps I've seen .. the log skidder is going to get stuck on them .. not to mention wood wastage . lol
What if its High Lead?
Still cause problems on highlead end up smashing gear,getting stuck..
Is anyone else worried that one of their hands might slip and go right into the chain?
If he used the same technique on large hardwood he would have split ( and ruined ) at least half. After you finish your underct work an addl few inches on each side. Starting at each edge of the underct.
Hmm.....this is teaching how to fall timber in BRITISH COLUMBIA.. find me hardwood stands that are actully valuable
Amen Victor 👍🏻👍🏻
It's clear which is the "backcut", so why call the face cut the "undercut"? IOW, what is it under? Why not KISS and why not simplify terminology? Ego?
iT'S UNDER THE BACK CUT SILLY!
That boy can cut! Saw sharp as shit too
I swear to god if that guy stinks the tip of his bar in the dirt one more time
Stinks?
Yea, I know
that bar really smells bad!
Pretty common with pros that can dress a chain in a minute, and smart enough not to waste energy holding a saws weight all day. Clue one he’s a real pro....he doesn’t own a Stihl
Rich, this is what guys who cut logs all day, every day do. It is just a quick little rest stop. It doesn't hurt the bar at all, and dulls the chain very little. If the chain were moving, that would be a different story, but this guy is just gently resting the saw in some soft duff.