Bowl Tenon Removal
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2017
- This is how I remove a tenon after turning a bowl. I'm sure there are multiple way to do this, just thought I would share my way. This method leaves the smallest amount of material to sand with no sawing or chiseling needed. The key is to apply pressure with the gouge bevel pressing the bowl towards the headstock.
- Jak na to + styl
That was a beautiful bowl. That tenon was humongous. I enjoyed how that little nub stayed on the live center for a few seconds.
My gosh, Phil! Get on with it! This may be the first time I've watched this. My editing has certainly improved in six years!! This should have been a 3 minute video, not 11 minutes! As far as I know, I'm the first person to remove a tenon in this manner. I never saw anyone do it before this though I see it pretty regularly now. 😃
What an excellent explanation, I have been having trouble working out how this is done. Man that was one of the most stressful things I've watched then you were onto the removal of the final cone!
Thank you so much, Murray, glad it was helpful! 😊
Every little bit of information is relevant to everybody who are learning. That's how I am learning to turn. Thanks for sharing phill.Ernie smith from brisbane Australia
And that's how I learned to turn too, Ernie. Tons of videos! 😊
Hi Phil thank you once again for a fine video Happy New Year
Regards
Steve UK London
Thanks for watching, Steve! 😊
Excellent video, beautiful bowl, and smooth presentation. I never saw it done that way before. I'm subscribing.
Thank you so much, Wakely Wanderer! I truly appreciate your comment and subscription!
Nice work! When I get to the point where you started to turn off the nub, I reach for my flush cut saw and sandpaper because Murphy's Law is always after me. :)
Just takes practice, Shasta! 😊
About tenon removing : if you leave some free space between tenon and piece , you can still hold the piece in the chuck and use a tool with a large thin "cutter tool (?)" to drive in between , leaving a flat clean surface to be then sanded with your special tool ...( never tried myself , to be tested..).
I kind of follow you, Youenn, but not exactly. I guess you are saying remove the tenon without turning it around. In other words, part it off with a parting tool. That might work with a small, round, in-balance piece but not for most of what I do. Also, I don't want a flat bottom. I want it recessed so it will set flat on a table. And I don't want the rough cut I would get using the method you suggest. Too much sanding. But, yes, please test it yourself and let me know how it goes!
Dude is a master
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Thanks Phil
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Great learning video! I notice your tail stock appears long. Do you have some type of extension on it? I have an old Delta Rockwell lathe and sometimes my tail stock will not extend out long enough for me to run it up to reach the bottom of my bowl for support and have my banjo in between. Do they make extensions for the tail stock?
Thanks
I used to have an old Delta Rockwell, too! The only video I have with it is this one: czcams.com/video/8ZjNN9XwKhM/video.html It had only a two inch ram. My new one has 4 1/4". However, I think what you are seeing is the live center I use, now. It's a Oneway and it is a full three inches longer than the standard live center my new lathe and most other lathes, come with.
I get nervous every time I watch you do this! Lol
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Hi Phil - hope you are doing well. Is there any specific type of wood you use for the pieces that you put in your chuck when removing tenons/recesses, or do you just use what ever is handy when you need to make one.
Thank you, Roger! I can't really say I make them, Roger. They are just cut-offs from something else I did. Some screw onto the wood worm screw and some fit in the chuck jaws. No particular wood, just about anything works.
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop Thank you.
Hello Phil , what about a "female tenon" (recess?) instead ? That way I got nothing to remove and , moreover , I keep the possibility of working again on the turned piece if some warping occurs , with one negative aspect : the risk of splitting during the work , that a "male tenon" prevents...
Always a consideration, Youenn. I do prefer a tenon simply because so much of what I turn has cracks that would only be made worse by using a recess. You make a valid point about being able to re-mount. Sometimes that comes in handy!
Thanks, I have problems finishing off that.
Glad I could help, Tony! Safe turning! 😊
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