How to Use a Disc Harrow - Model 300
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Ted from Everything Attachments demos the larger 300 Model Disc Harrow. There is features discussion, as well as techniques for food plots and different adjustments. USA Made**Factory Direct**HUGE Free Shipping Zone! MORE INFO/PRICES HERE: www.everything...
My left ear enjoyed this
This disk is a HOSS! I have a United 20x18. It's basically the same as this one and I LOVE it.
I would love to have one of those, but remember how hard it was to get the plow off the tractor trailer which I ordered and it wasn't as large as this disc. I have a plow to break up the soil I have and use it before using my tiller and it works fine.
Cuts Good.
Soil type makes a world of difference, I've seen a lighter disk cut 4-5" down on fresh sod and leave a full finish on one pass. But it's all in the soil. I could never get that here in our WV shale
I can see where the ground have to be plowed prior to using the discing, especially in new ground. That disc tore up the plowed ground real good.
What would I need to plant Christmas trees
I would of like to have seen several passes on the grass... seen what two, then three, then four passes on the grass... etc.
Oh weight on the frame helps alot!
very helpful thanks
.
I need to know how much is the price for series 240 and whath its the wheigth. Thank U.
A tiller would be as effective with much less cost for such a small plot.
William Wallum I think this is for demonstration purposes...
60-90HP how many Fuel use per 8 hours?
Light texture soil easy to work up up in Ontario heavy clay soils clumpy
The process is the same. You just have to be careful about your soil moisture level. If it's really bad clay, you'll want to plow in a good cover crop first. But it still works the same.
I need a adjustment tool where do I find one ?
Amaizing !
Wouldn’t it do better if a 7 inch??
"Give it a whirl Peanut!"
The only problem is it takes 4 months to deliver . Smaller unit. But still ..too long brother. Would love to have one of these
Would my John Deere 3020 be to big
Hello I enjoyed your video. What size disc do you recommend for a kubota L3301 and what is disc would be considered to large in feet and inches?
This 68" model is great for it. I wouldn't go above 6' unless the soil conditions are easy. Link: www.everythingattachments.com/Fully-adjustable-Deluxe-Box-Frame-Disc-Harrow-p/eta-xd-bf-dh.htm
Would my massey 1533, R4 tires 4wd(tractor alone weights about 3100lbs) with loadeded tires and loader in the front be able to pull this? how much does this disc weigh?
+shohokuslamdunk
Here is the best harrow for your tractor. I would use the
16-18 68” width.
www.everythingattachments.com/product-p/eta-xd-bf-dh.htm
Of it would your tractor is 65 ish hp I'm guessing with a bunch of weight on it it would pull it like it wasn't there
What gear or mph is best for discing?
4-5mph or sometimes it's just depends on your tractors horse power
I need a Disk like this for my new KUBOTA MX5400. How much does it cost?
The preferred harrow for an MX Series is our EA Xtreme Large Deluxe Box Frame harrow. Check out the details and prices here www.everythingattachments.com/Large-Deluxe-Box-Frame-adjustable-Disc-Harrow-p/eta-xd-lg-bf-dh.htm Feel free to call or send us an email at sales@everythingattachments.com with questions. Thanks for watching!
can we send you our Russian made heavy disc harrow to try like this ?
Everything Attachments I want to buy just the cranks you used to adjust the angle of the disk gangs. Is that something I can buy from you?
You can reach our parts dept. by calling 828-464-1200 or email parts@everythingattachments.com. Thanks!
So whats the recommend speed for disking
It really depends on the ground conditions, but you normally do not have to creep when using a disc harrow.
You have COOL hair
has the driver never been told to make sure foot is off clutch and it is out of gear before anybody goes in between the tractor and implement.
if he jumped off and forgot it was in gear his buddy would be mince meat
They are city slickers as you can tell by how they describe and explain how it is done like a rookie .
C Foster don't those tractors have a hydrostatic transmission?
C Foster city slickers? Newton NC has a population of less than 13K.
How much do you wanna bet a John Deere would work better than that Kubota
I can't stand watching a video of someone out there doing it, while ya'll dream it.
What is the difference between plowing and harrowing?
Generally, you’ll get better results in a garden and certain
crops for food plots if you can plow first, which turns the existing vegetation
over. Then, allow it to cure/rot for a few weeks and then go over it with
a disc or tiller to mix the rotted compost into the soil for enrichment.
After plowing, a tiller would most likely produce better results
in fewer passes than a disc harrow, but your ground speed will be lower with a
tiller.
In gardening/landscaping, tilling is usually the final prep
before seed is applied, but for larger acreage, tilling is not always used
because it is more time consuming.
Feel free to give us a call or email sales@everythingattachments.com
for further assistance!
I guess I should have asked what harrowing and tilling are.
Plowing is done with a bottom plow, or moldboard plow, which digs deep into the soil and slices a thick and continuous strip of soil off the surface and the moldboard rolls it over so the vegetation is now on the bottom and fresh dirt is on the top. Just like you would do with a shovel. Plows can have from one to several bottoms. A 3 bottom plow, cuts three rows, since it has three plow shares and moldboards. A 6 bottom plow would have 6 of everything. Plows leave massive chunks of soil and clods of all sizes, and is not designed to break them up.
Tilling is similar to plowing, but doesn't go as deep, and is designed to break up the clods. It is similar to a spade fork. You can't dig very deep with a spade fork, compared to a shovel, but you can break up the surface, dig a little bit, and chop up clods with it. A tiller, often called a roto-tiller, has a rotating shaft, set horizontally, and perpendicular to the line of travel. The shaft has multiple sets of tines, (typically L-shaped, but other styles exist) which dig into the soil only a few inches as the shaft rotates. The depth is adjustable on many tillers, and there are walk-behind tillers that are powered by a gasoline engine, handheld tillers that are gas powered or electric, tillers made for a 3-point hitch that are driven by the PTO of the tractor. Tilling chops up the soil and vegetation to a very fine texture, depending on how fast the shaft is spinning, and how fast the tiller is moving along the ground. Some spin forward, some spin in reverse, some can spin in either direction. They also make them for skid steer and track steer type machines.
Harrowing, is a type of raking to loosen the top few inches of the soil, and to break up the large clods and even out the surface. Just like you'd do with a garden rake with hard tines. There are drag harrows, which is an implement with several, steel spikes or tines, (like a rake) but with several columns and rows of tines. Drag harrows are dragged behind a tractor, ATV, or even a riding mower, depending on their size and weight. Another type of harrow, is the disc harrow, which is what this video shows. You can see that a disc harrow cuts into the soil much deeper than a drag harrow can, breaking up a few inches of the top layer of sod or dirt. As the disc harrow is pulled along the ground, the discs rotate, giving them a shearing action on the soil. Their cup shape acts similar to a moldboard on a bottom plow, depending on the angle of the axle to the line of pull. Some discs have notches, while others have smooth edges. Some harrows have one row of non-slotted discs, followed by a row of slotted discs. Slotted discs cut or crush heavier vegetation, like corn stubble, helping them to break down faster, and return the nutrients to the soil by shoving them deeper into the dirt. As Ted said in the video, changing the angle of the axles, increases or decreases the cutting action, which also increases or decreases the amount of power the tractor needs to pull the harrow. Harrowing helps to level out small undulations in the field, and breaks up big clods.
Cultivating is a way to break up the very top layer of soil and a way to cut weeds below the surface, after the crop is growing. There are many types of cultivators, but they have from one to several tines, normally sprung so they can flex out of the way if a rock or root is struck. They are set up to have the tines in between the rows of planted crops, in a manner that prevents damage to the plants, but slices just below the surface to cut the weeds and disturb the soil for better moisture absorption. The cultivator is normally dragged behind a tractor or lawn tractor, but there are many other kinds, including walk behind units that are mechanically powered or human powered. A cultivator is also used in farming after a field has been disked with disc harrow, to prepare the seed bed for the planter.
Cultipacking is a way to compress the upper layer of soil, firming the seed bed, and forms long, narrow ridges and valleys in the soil. Like a lawn roller, but with ridges on the roller. Cultipackers smooth the soil, remove air pockets, and push small stones into the dirt. A cultipacker has several steel or cast iron wheels mounted on a single shaft, with no space between the wheels. Some people till or disc, then cultipack, then broadcast seed, then cultipack again, while others till or disc, broadcast, and cultipack. Everyone does it the way they think is best for their type of crops, soil, and the way they learned to do it. Same as with everything else in the world......there is more than one way to get a job done.
You can find photos of each of the implements and how they are used on Google Images, and will see a huge variety of each type. You can also go to CZcams and search for videos on the use of each one.
Plow ~ Shovel
Tiller ~ Spade fork
Harrow ~ Garden rake
Cultivator ~ Hoe
Cultipacker ~ Lawn roller with ridges
Plowing is breaking up untouched (recently) ground with a heavier implement, designed to go deeper. There are moldboard or bottom plows (what most people think of as a plow), chisel plows, and there at least used to be disk plows, that used really big disks. For all of those, the idea is to break the surface down to 4+ inches, either turning it over (for a moldboard plow - turning it over means flipping the dirt so that what was on the surface - think grass or weeds - is buried under their own roots, with the roots sticking up), or just breaking the surface up to loosen it (chisel plow). Then harrowing is breaking the surface up to end up with a plantable seed bed.
Don't want to re-write throngcleaver's book, but most people use chisel plows these days, so they shouldn't be left out. It's mostly us organic farmers using moldboard plows, because the turning over part is very helpful in weed control.
@@kjmclark in the high desert almost unanimously people warn me not to plow. The thing is my field has been growing grass, alfalfa, weeds and oats for years and it pretty solid, enough so I’m tempted to give it an initial plow.
Seemed like the adjustment was slow. Not a big deal, but an acme thread would have help move it quicker.
The type of thread doesn't matter. It's the pitch of the thread, or the number of starts of a thread, that determine how quickly a screw thread will move something.
If you put rocks on top in a box you don't need to plow.
That is not wiregrass, it is common Bermuda.
That’s an exact duplicate of an old ford motor company disc
C'est du sable facile
Non, c'est pas du sable. Il dit que c'est "hard red clay", alors c'est de l'argile.
He dosn't tern the grownwd be cause its light it mus be heavy
I absolutely hate the bermuda grass!
It decimates my vegetable garden.