Engine Won't Start - No Crank Diagnosis (Troubleshooting Starting System Issues)
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- čas přidán 20. 12. 2012
- In this video I show you how to diagnose a no crank condition on a 1997 Honda Accord but the techniques shown here can be used on any vehicle.
A no crank means when the ignition switch is turned to the start position the starter doesn't crank the engine.
To troubleshoot this issue I cover battery testing with a load tester, solenoid trigger wire testing, and voltage drop testing with a multimeter on the power and ground side of the starter.
I also cover how a relay works, how the starter solenoid works, and explain what the neutral safety switch is and how it's incorporated into different start circuit designs.
Starter Replacement Video for this Accord:
• Honda Accord Starter R...
"Welcome To The Show" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Nice job. We have been yanking hair out on a 94 Escort 1.8 starter issue. Since I dropped and cracked the solenoid, we R&R'd it with a new one, now we have intermittent starting,, almost like a bind up of the solenoid. When we rock the car, it will start. No shims in the original, and no bad sounds ever. I'll check for negative Voltage Drop. Thanks for the great vid
LOVE this dude! Some videos are so much fluff or SOOOO un-edited! He doesn't even have a helper and it still has great info and camera work. Thank you so much!
Man, I hope your a teacher somewhere, that is the best instructional video I have ever seen. great job.
I am impressed with the organization of your work and the choice of words to teach the lesson. awsome
Wow... you truly are incredibly gifted. You know every name of every part of the car. Thank you for sharing such wonderful knowledge with simple ppl like myself. By far the most best explained video Ive seen yet.
Best video ever. Thanks for taking the time to explain all the parts to this you did!
just want to say you made a great video I actually learned more from this video on testing/diagnosing a starter/ no crank than I did in my automotive class THANKS!!
Glad to help.
Thanks For Watching.
Can't tell you how much this helped me, thank you!
I just wanted to say, thank you
You saved me hundreds of dollars on repair.
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to make it! I learned a bunch and this video helped me diagnose my bad starter.
Thank you for a thrall over view with detail. Love the pull down voltage from pcm to zero or remains at 5v good differential testing this is what I needed to hear. Now I am not going in blind thank you Bushougoma.
Really good vid !! No High priced devices just common good info..Great Vid
Very informative helped me fix my car and now know a lot more about electrical systems. Thankyou for your time
Yeah sometimes overlooking simple things can lead you down the wrong diagnostic path. It happens to all of us.
Glad you figured it out before having to fork over money for a tow.
Thanks Man! fixed my 98 with this vid
excellent video most informative . its from now on my go to video. thanks .
Thanks for yout great video that actually helped me fix my car.
Good job, just what I expected from Bushougoma. There are now several good CZcams videos of this common circuit problem, and I even did one last year. For people willing to put in the time, there's ample room to learn this online.
It's a little frustrating when you can't do a drop test because the device won't turn on. I've tried a Loadpro tester in that setting, but conceptually I prefer to use the innate device if possible. Cheers!
good videos i watched alot of them but i like to point out my starting issue on my 94 accord ex was a bad main ground wire exact starting issue no click no dimming of anything replaced it so far no problems back to old faithful keep up the vids u are helping lots of diy`ers
Eric Kelly where is this bad ground wire at Eric Kelly?
Thanks a lot u were very helpful. It was the positive wire connection on the starter that was loose. Good deal
Glad to help. Sometimes you luck out and it's an easy fix.
Thanks For Watching.
good job on checking starter
great video and explaining men good luck
Very very good video. Thank you .
Excellent video! Everything is clearly and correctly explained. My car has been having trouble with the engine not rotating when attempting to start but it appears to be the automatic transaxle not completely engaging in park. I have to move the gear selector around until it eventually engages. I was wondering if you know what could cause the transaxle to not engage correctly like this. Any info would be great!
very well done, good on you
Thank you for the advice
Love the detail video. Do you have the same video for a chrysler 300c. For no crank no start
I tapped the starter with a hammer and now it's working again. So all other elements are working correctly.Thanks again for your input.
Definitely a bad starter. The most likely cause is worn brushes.
No telling when the brushes will lose contact again and it leave you stranded.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you made my day i fixed my accord
Absolutely superb!
Gerald's Videos
great video.
awesome vid thanks
Boas dicas.
Thanks for shooting this video? Could the CKP/TDC sensor combo be the culprits in a no-start condition in which the starter motor is turning but the pinion gear does not seem to be engaging the flywheel (starter motor RPMs sound higher). The reason I'm asking is this just started happening on the first start attempt after I replaced the crank & camshaft oil seals and the timing/balance belt/wp on my '97 Accord non-vtec 2.2L w/ AT (315k miles BTW). The CKP/TDC sensors on my 97 are below the timing belt crank sprocket & had grime on them from the oil leaks, & I cleaned them with a towel wet with brake clean. I know this video is old but I'm hoping to pull a bad starter instead of having to pull the balance belt again.
good job thanks a lot
I like your video. The problem on mine when I check the voltage on the trigger starter wire was there was a voltage fluctuations. What causing the voltage to fluctuates? Thanks for your help.
Yep, ground voltage is non-existant and no continuity. Thanks a lot for you help... will def be watching the install video tomorrow morning.
Thanks allot!!!
thank you!
just a fyi on my issue i tried switching the ign relay that was in the fuse box under the hood and it cranked, just a lucky guess but turned out to be right,
thanks for you help
I do understand the need to troubleshoot something quickly so you can get back on the road.
But if you know how the circuit and it's variants work you can perform pin point tests on any vehicle not just a specific model to quickly identify the issue.
Thanks For Watching.
Hey Busho,
We Honda crazies out there love your videos, but we do need a tutorial on how to replace Brake Master Cylinder, all Brake Rotors, all Brake Pads, all Brake Calipers. Because them crooks out there are robbing people blind, my girl already had all the needed parts and the damn mechanic had the nerve to charge her $750.57 for parts and labor to replace 2 Front Brake Rotors, 2 Rear Brake Rotors, 4 Brake Calipers, all Brake Pads, Bleed the lines and a Brake Master Cylinder.
Do you have the same type of video for the same problem for a 2004 Ford Taurus?
Hi. Great video. You really know your stuff!
I have an LDV convoy and I'm having starter issues. When I turn the key to acc the starter relay is constantly clicking with the immobiliser light. I have no power and the headlights and indicators aren't working. My battery is fine (12.6 V) as is the earthing strap. Any ideas what it could be?
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit of rookie!
Thanks
Very helpful video, thank you!
Hey bushougoma I like your video it helped me a lot but my question is I have a 93 ford explorer it still won't crank I changed the battery completely new changed the starter and starting cylinoid both 3 times I also changed some relays on the fuse box under the hood....and also the fuses by the driver side inside the car are fine ignition is fine wires are alive the spark plugs are good all spark plug wires are in contact as we'll any ideas what it can be right of the top of your head??
Carrie Krull Your vehicle has the Passlock anti theft system more commonly known as VATS. There is basically a resistor in your key if the anti theft module doesn't sense the proper resistance it will disable the starter and fuel system. I'd rule it out as a culprit before going further.
If the security light on the dash is on when you attempt to start the vehicle it means that the VATS system is responsible for preventing the vehicle from starting.
First check the resistor in the key with an ohm meter if you can't get a reading the key is bad and is the reason for the issue.
Check inside the lock cylinder to make sure the contacts that make contact with the key are good. If they aren't the cylinder needs to be replaced.
Check the following fuses:
Fuse 11 in the instrument panel fuse box
Fuse 4 in the underhood fuse box
and Fuse 8 in the relay box.
I can provide further troubleshooting info if you need it.
Rule it out by using a second key? easy. Faults are usually intermittent but many bad connections show in the cold or in the hot. Usually corrosion or just loose nut, screw on the ground. SAAB 99 Turbo-fuel pump has a low pressure inhibitor switch in the start wire line, so a bad ground in the trunk (boot) will give a dead car. Fuel gauge will show a FULL deflection as it uses the same ground. Not many of these around but just remember this fault from years ago. Good luck yours.
I have an issue with my truck as well, I did an engine swap of 4th Gen(2009) ram into a 3rd Gen(2003) ram....it doesn't crank at all! A little red dot light blinks slowly...I think it's a anti-theft/security code popping up. What should I do Next?!?!
this guy is the goddamn man
I'm at the final stage of my hot rod truck, '97 Ranger V8 swap. but when I hit the key all I hear are the 2 solenoids and no crank. it's maddening to the point where I want to pull out what is left of my hair LOL. I'm really hoping it's the High Ground resistance that you mentioned because all mechanicals are brand new even the battery.
Can you do a video for how to replace the fuel pump for Honda Accord 94-97?
BTW, the no crank is an intermittent problem. Another info, each time I turned the key to start, the panel lights came up and central locking system came alive, but the starter just didn't crank. Thank you very much!
n the old starter just went bad and at the store they said it was no good. I really dont know what's going on am I putting the wire wrong? Iam going to try that voltage test you said to do and will get back to you. thanks you been a big help so far :)
i really liked a video
I got a 1997 Accord coupe with a no crank issue. My Ignition switch is good as well my my starter relay. I still have no power to my solenoid wire. My power windows also stopped working at the same time I can't think of anything else??? Also my Ignition fuse is good and I'm getting power and out of the switch at the right times.
I checked with my multimeter, I put the ground on the battery and tested the fender solenoid. It has 12.4 on the constant side (good) but I got .100+ on the side that is suppose to not have any current until triggered by the ignition wire. Replaced it with HD version and still got the .100 reading. Would a high resistance ground be the cause? That would also be the cause of my no crank but click problem? Any help would be great, ty. This is the final step of a 3 year project build and I'm must humbly admit electrical is my weak point.
what ground to starter open?started is bround itself to a block
didnt understand nothing,what was the fix? if voltages is good
Nice video! When do drop test, what is the safe and easy way to disable ignition (23:24 in the video)? Unplug fuse for fuel pump? Unplug distributor wires? Thanks!
The exact procedure varies by vehicle.
But in general it's best to disable the fuel system rather than the ignition system to prevent the cylinders from getting flooded with unburnt fuel. Pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay is the easiest method.
hi, why do we need pull and hold in, if hold in can do pull in job, is that because hold in is not strong enough to engage the initial pinion gear travel.
Dead starter the brushes were worn out. I didn't think to film it before I replaced it.
Excessive voltage drop or an open power or ground can cause the starter to appear dead so it's important to check voltage drop after the verifying power on the trigger wire when in start.
I cross the big wire and the little wire in the started and the starter spins. I also found the relay and cross 30 with with 87 and the starter cranks
I been having problem with my 2001 honda accord wont start wont crank...Did u find the issues?
Thanks fr answering but please more details.
First make sure the battery is fully charged.
Perform a voltage drop test on the starter if the voltage drop isn't excessive the starter is on it's way out.
A sign of a failing starter can be a slower than normal crank speed or an erratic crank speed. I've had the starter on my vehicle do that before it finally died the same day. When I autopsied the starter worn brushes not making contact on the commutator were the culprit.
Thanks for the reply.
I meant to say, last night, all the electronics (radio, dash, and headlights, etc.) go completely out when trying to crank the car.
Today, I replaced the battery (was charged 100%, but had a dead cell); go to crank the car, and still nothing... the car doesnt even try to turn over. The headlights, etc., do not go completely out now, but they do dim considerably when turning the key over, and there is a single click sound coming from beneath the dash.
Any other ideas?
What does it mean and I'm sure you covered it but I missed it... But my car doesn't want to crank when I first turn the key in the ignition but starts right up the second try and only in the morning and it's not to cold here in California so Idk. Could it be the starter cable is loose or corroded haven't checked yet...
Thanks
i have a 1995 Lexus ls400 sometimes it does not crank over and the next day it works can anyone help
just asking, but would be easier to remove driver tire and remove the nuetral saftey switch? im still green but getting there
My problem is on the trigger wire I believe. The battery is good. I've tried 3 starters, (original, rebuilt from parts store, and used one from ebay) Sometimes (rarely) it will have 12 v and will crank. Most of the time after the first crank it has 5v and does nothing. Could you be able to help explain this one? I have never seen anything like this.
Do you have 12 volts on the tiny trigger wire going to the solenoid when in start? If you do.
Check the voltage drop on the starter power and ground as outlined in the video. A high resistance or open connection (at the starter power wire or block ground) is most likely the culprit.
Thank
My accord will make a clicking sound when I turn on the ignition key, but it usually takes me at least 3 tries to turn on the ignition key before it starts. What problem would that indicate? This has been going on for 4 months.
I have a 2002 ford f150 thought the fuel pump went out so put a new one in and still won't start cranks but doesn't start has oil has coolent battery has been fully charged hoping it hasn't jumped time or hoping its just a sensor
yes, I tried jump it with the remote switch you used on 24:07 and the starter started to work cranking the car. But without it and turning the key to start it just spins but does not engage the flywheel. It sounds like an RC toy car no crank sound..
hi could you not use the min/max setting on meter for voltage drop test if you don't have a remote starter ? as this would record the test when ignition was turned on.
Yes as long as you have alligator clips to hold the leads on.
hey i need help i have the same problem on my accord 1997 it wont start and no crank
so there is a problem some where in that circuit that u were showing my starter is good battery is i have power on constant
so what i did i took a peace of wire turn ignition on and stick a wire to the plus on starter and to the minus and car start but it want start from the key could u suggest me something please
Sir.....my ignition switch disconnected from my wiring harness underneath my steering column. As I attempted to reconnect it......I heard a loud pop. I replaced the ignition switch contact at the harness. Works good. I have power from battery....int, dash and head lights super strong......my car wont turn over. What do you think I blew? Thanks for your time
Hello bushougoma,
I have a no crank in park; crank in neutral; no start. Starter relay is load side good control side w/key in on position has a low pottage of 3.44v. Key in start position it goes to 12.39 volts. Do I have a block ground issue? where did this 3.44 low voltage referrence come from ? The throttle reads 1.8 volts on all 3 wires no resistance to open/closed throttle. It seems dead to me or broken or is the computer in some anti theft mode?
Got a question for you I have 2002 Ford with a 5.4 triton motor. New Battery, no start no crank, do you know where the PCM is on this truck. I cleaned both battery terminal. Turn the key, got light on the dash and the speedometer when from 0 to 120 and then back to 0. Odd. Still no start no crank. Got any ideas what going on??
Thank's for the reply- also, I have one more question; is the Starter and solenoid not damaged by the "ON" position of the key in the ignition switch for 15 minutes? ... I had no issues with starting the car... up to this point. My assumption is no damage, due to to no current sent to either, unless in the start position.
The solenoid isn't energized unless the key is in the start position.
I have a 1999 Honda accord LX and I recently hooked up car audio subs and an amp. When I first hooked up my audio, I was running the power wire that ran to the amplifier without a fuse. when I did so, and the audio was running the car seemed to be struggling staying on. I quickly disconnected them and turned the car off. When I went back to the car it would not crank at all. It only makes a click noise. it only makes one click and when I hold the key in the starting position you can hear
Shouldn't the gear be in neutral before you try to turn the crankshaft manuely?
I have a 99 Lincoln navigator. no start when we crank it. the dealer said its not the anti theft. if we put the key in the ignition and wait 15 minutes it starts again.
Sound like these car companies made more Problem with this theft program.
+Teri and TL Stanbro Cadillac's are the worst when the security measures of the car turn nazi.
O one thing that eric the car guys video left out was ignition key / switch could be bad
for a no start no crank Though one could test the starter directly to rule out the starter and and manually spining the crankshaft to completely rule out the no start no crank problem into a no start or start/stall problem
I have a 2010 F15 5.4 won't start won't crank. cluster inop, door don't chime with key in ignition . Pats light don't blink. only hear relay click. all other lights doors, windows and auxiliary power works. what could be the problem? John H
Can i Skip the selenoid i have a rv a 1973 chevy sports coach 454 Motor Oldschool
On a 1998 Ford Escort with a switch on there's a humming under the hood and the car won't start but when you plug a diagnostic tool into the port it will run but when you cut it out full it out it won't run diagnose problem
I have the same vehicle can you help me resolve the problem. I turn the key and the the motor turns doesn't start just turns and makes a buzzzzzzzzzzz sound like a mini turbine
i have a mazda626 2001 is it possible to have multiple things wrong with my car at once I have been doing research and it seems it could be a few things but your video made me think it mite be my starter AND my battery is that possible?
If you have doubts about your battery and don't have a tester you can take it to an auto parts store many places will test it for free.
The battery should read around 12.6 at rest if it's fully charged. But what really matters is it's how it responds to a load.
With the key in the start position if the battery voltage stays above 10 volts start troubleshooting the starter and the starting circuit.
Hi Bushougoma, my accord starts sometime without any problem and sometimes I hear "click" sound but it doesn't start. Normally, I try to turn on the keys 5-6 times then finally it starts. I don't know what is causing this! I checked the battery voltage and it's all good (I am going to double check the battery connection). Before this started happening, I heard very sharp engine noise once so, I turn off the car and restarted it; the noise was gone! How do I go about it? Any suggestion?
I left my key in the on position for approx 5 min gas came from the engine. Never started it. When I tried it make a single clunk sound
Okay so how exactly do you rotate the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet?
A 190 Mercedes is involved- having difficulty under certain conditions for the starter to turn the engine over when I try to start the car. If I drive only a short distance, e.g 1 km and then turn the car off it will restart. If I have driven a longer distance sau 20km and then turn the car off I have difficulty starting it immediately- I heara slight click soud but the starter does not appear to kick in- when I wait for say an hour then the starter kicks in and turns the engine over- From this experience it seems that my problem is heat related- Could this be my solenoid or a coil?
This is a general video made to cover multiple vehicles and circuit designs. It would be impossible to give pin point advice on what to check with so many circuit variations.
A working knowledge of the circuit you're working on is vital to a proper diagnosis.
Lets say a certain circuit isn't functioning properly. How do you know IF it's functioning properly? How do you test the circuit to find the cause of the malfunction?
Without knowledge of how the circuits supposed to operate you can't.
You're going to have to get a wiring diagram and start checking grounds.
If 12 volts is entering the box but not getting to certain fuses chances are the accessories (like turn signals) are switched by the ignition switch before the fuse and there may be an issue with the switch.
Give me the year make and model and I'll pull up a wiring diagram to give you more specific areas to check.
Hi i got 2001 honda acoord ex , my tranmission not reverse , before i drive nomaL PUT GEAR NOMAL , but after i change the tranmission , key on but wont start , and the light ( P , R , N , D not on in the odometer , i check power at starter solenoi , no power come when i start , cant change the gear , i check neutral switch working , do u know what wrong ? please help me , thanks
Can anyone help? I have a no crank no start condition on my project car and am really struggling with this one. It's got a new battery measuring at least 12.6v across the terminals. I'm getting the constant 12v supply to the starter and i'm picking up the 12v on the trigger wire as the key is turned to the crank position. I've been able to bench test the starter and it spins freely, but it won't spin when in position in the car. I've also checked mechanical integrity of the engine, and i can turn the crank pulley freely. No obvious sign of an anti-theft device affecting this, or a neutral safety switch, as i assume this would not give me the 12v trigger wire signal. Any ideas?
great
Recently my brother's '97 1.8L Suzuki Sidekick stopped functioning. Wouldn't turn over in the parking lot, but it certainly was cranking. After a couple of days of sitting in the garage, however, it isn't even attempting to crank anymore. Turning the key to ACC will play a repeating tone from the dash, as normal. But now, turning to ON, the dash lights start out extremely dim, and many instruments appear to lose power. If it sits there for a minute, everything slowly brightens up and eventually the radio will be able to power up, but attempting to start the car quickly produces complete power drain. No lights, nothing. After the attempt to start, returning the key to ON, the car tries to recuperate. A couple of clicks will be heard, not during the process, but after the attempt is made. The tone mentioned earlier sounds like it is receiving insufficient power, almost as if it was trying to utter its last words on the deathbed (with fluctuating frequency that differs from the solid tone), and all the lights return to the previous dimmed state. Eventually it will go back to square one, all of the dash components and various lights in the car appearing to work normally. And this can be repeated over... and over... and over....
This didn't seem to be a problem a few days ago, minus the inability to turn over. A skid plate was about to fall off, but my brother fastened it with some wire, but I doubt that is the problem. I am positive the batteries are charged. A voltmeter will show around 12V on them (testing this with two separate batteries, same results). Now we are out of options. We have no extra money to freely spend on replacement parts. I checked the fuse box for blown fuses, but didn't see anything initially. I will check again.
Do you have any idea what is going on?
Try turning the crank with a ratchet the starter can't crank an engine if it's seized. If you can turn it.
Measure the battery voltage when cranking if it goes below 10.5 volts and the batteries charged it's probably a bad cell. Old batteries can die suddenly without warning.
If the battery checks out I can provide further info.
I have a 91 Park Avenue, and sometimes when I try to start it, all the idiot lights come on, but the starter won't engage. Nothing happens. There is resistance when I turn it, but the starter won't spin. I tried to override it at used jumper cables and put the positive on the starter, and the engine would crank and fire for a second, but wouldn't keep running. Thoughts?
my friend has a 2000 Honda accord -v6 coupe -DX automatic, she said it cut off on her a couple days ago and now it will turn over like it wants to start but won't, Can u help me please