Richard Raffan turns and burns to create a natural edge bowl.
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- This bowl emerged from a very unpromising blank. You see it all in real time apart from some of the burning. There are useful tips on sanding difficult areas.
As a new woodturner, I especially appreciate how you frequently include details on the geometry of what you are doing, both on the workpiece and how you apply your tools.
Having a single good camera angle throughout the video is also very helpful, because on my phone I can zoom way in and watch the contact poing without it jumping all over.
Thank you for slaring your knowledge and skill with us!
Howdy Mr. Richard! I am a rookie to the lathe, just got mine this past Christmas! a Viewer of mine suggested your channel and well.. I am tickled they did! I am eating up all your knowledge and enjoying your videos! Even came across one of your books the other day and like i mention I am very green to wood turning... i had no idea you are the legend you are... So i truly appreciate you sharing your time and effort for the world to see! Its gooder than good, sir! So thank ya!
I learned to turn from your videos with Taunton press. I checked them out from the library in Indianapolis, In. Then I got to meet you in passing at the Mark Adam’s School for Woodworking. So glad you have a CZcams channel now. Thanks so much for the content.
Everything I have learnt about wood turning has come from videos like yours. Thank you very much for your service and keep up the great work
After watching your other video on burning, I was put off by the massive mess it created even though I loved the results. But now I think I have that solved that problem by removing the bowl and chuck to an outdoor area where I can safely burn and brush the piece before returning indoors to complete the project. I'm going to give this a go, especially on natural edged bowl. Thanks for the inspiration and education!
It's a messy technique that's for sure. Old clothes are advised.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I did try it on a square rimmed bowl twice turned from a piece of live oak. It has a lot of splatting in it - so the darkened edges added greatly. By limiting the burning to just the edge, the mess was minimized. I felt it made the bowl appear aged, like it came out from the old west. I was very pleased with the out come. I am certain to use it again. Thanks again.
@@donntisch365 Aged is often the effect I'm after. Charring can be a very good way to handle big splits as well
Great video Richard. I always enjoy that you keep the struggles that come up in woodturning in your videos and how to address them. I look forward to your next instalment of turning knowledge.
I'm not usually a fan of burning wood, but on this piece it really works well.
I used to think issues such as lifted grain and surface irregularities were because I wasn't skilled enough with my gouge. It's nice to see you as a master turner dealing with these challenges and fixing them as they present themselves. It gives me confidence that it is the nature of the work and not just me.
Thank you Richard. Another great video with excellent instruction. I really appreciate how you talk through what you are doing. It is as though we were just hanging around in your shop. I always learn something from each and every video.
You are much more chatty in this video. I like that and think it is very effective to hear your internal dialogue. Thank you, sir. You are a gem.
One thing I have noticed, for me at least, using the wing of the spindle gouge to rough out the outside of a bowl, it become much easier to control the overall shape. Small control moves, for me, seems easier to stay on shape, rather the larger handle movements that some folks choose. Preference I suppose.. thanks for spending time making these videos..
America Florida: I love wood carvings & wood turning, Great work, 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟.
Solutions to problems. How to recover from mishaps. These hints are all *very instructive. Thanks so much.
I love the charred top. You always amaze me. I just hate having to go back to tools once I have sanded. You do it effortlessly. Thank you for sharing
Super job pán majster... 👍👍👍✊✊✊
Looks wonderful - I will have to try burning.
Always something to learn from you. Thank you for your continued sharing.
Another very interesting video. Really appreciate the detailed explanation of the burning process, that was very instructive.
Challenging blank , I like the wire brush texturing and torching . I wish I had smell-o-vision for this one , another one of a kind bowl .
looks great! i am not usually a fan of burning, but I do like the results!
Beautiful bowl!
I had a pretty big catch with the scraper today as well---while hollowing the bowl. Luckily the bowl was saved.
Great video Richard and beautiful bowl.
Outstanding as usual, love your videos
Excellent as always, thanks
Fire in a workshop always freaks me out a bit, but the result sure looks stunning, it is a shame that we cannot get a feel of the wood watching YT videos 😢 Anyway, well done, Richard 👏🏻 Thank you 🙏🏻
That's beautiful. Thankyou
I would rub in some of the whitish sanding dust into the charged area to highlight the cracks
Lovely timber
Charred areas
Hi Richard
Thank you for your time effort and knowledge,so much to enjoy and learn so little time left to do it in.
Regards
Great video! I'm curious how long you used that short spindle gouge? A hobby turner likely would never wear down a tool, but I wonder how long they last for professional turners.
That's tricky to answer as I'd have several of each on the go at once. I went through bowl gouges faster than spindle gouges because I used those on both the inside and outside of bowls. I've not turned much this century, but my recollection is that gouges lasted about three years. In the 1970s I went through carbon gouges in about a year.
Thank you Richard. Another great video with excellent instruction. I've just one question, when roughing wih the spindle gouge, what is the position of the tool handle? It looks as though the handle is dropped down, but this may be the position/view from the camera
The handle has to be pitched down in order to get a decent shear cut. Keeping a gouge horizontal when using a pull cut isn't very effecient.
Very nice! After sanding, would you not blow out the saw dust before putting on the finish. Very nice bowl
Is there any particular on when to power sand vs hand sand? How to reduce scratch tracks from hand sanding under power? Sand with grain off lathe?
Another triumph! Two questions for you. First, that same bluegum has been transplanted to northern California, where it seems to thrive in the sandy soil. Lots of silica in the wood, though, and the trunks almost always have twisting grain. Do Aussie bluegums have those qualities too?
Second, how does the inside curve relate to the outside shape?
Thanks for another great video!
There are hyndreds of different eucalypts and many have twisted grain and are inclined to split and twist as a result. On top of that the wood doesn't seem to appeal to a wide public who prefer richer reds like redgum which tends to be turned commercially.
Wall thickness: I rarely turn an even wall thickness unless there's wildly undulating natural rim. I find bowls feel better balanced if the wall slims slightly between the rim and base. Art of Turned Bowls explains this, or you might find a Turned Bowl Design second-hand which was the original version. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Looks like spotted gum and sands like spotted gum, but I will defer to your years of experience and knowledge
@@supportinvoiceonline77 The spotted gum I've had tended to be more ochre than red. We don't get either in Canberra so another candidate is Blakely's red gum which is common here.
What diameter drill are you using to drill the center holes in the bowl? Thank you.
The depth drill is 6mm diameter.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you, it seemed bigger to me (8 - 10 mm)😊
@@milasiroky3301 You're correct! I checked this morning and this depth drill is 8mm. I have several others that are smaller that are easier to use. The 6mm depth drill is less grabby. Larger depth drills are more difficult to handle and can self-feed and take you deeper than you want to go.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I understand, thanks for the explanation
I continually pick up little bits and pieces as I watch your videos.
1 question, is there a reason you never seem to remove the sanding dust before you oil the piece?
Thank you for making these videos.
No is the short answer. When I used jarrah burl that was highly fissured I did blow the dust out before oiling, but on smooth surfaces a bit of dust never seemed to matter.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thank you for the response.