This is the type of stuff I like about this channel. Coming up with creative solutions to problems. I always thought I was being a bit sloppy or lazy doing stuff like that but sometimes you just have to do what works.
Sometimes you have to do things this way. Most construction youtube channels won't show things like this because they want you to think they only do it the professional way.
Maybe put a piece of 1x3 or 1x4 running horizontally in the stud bay for a more replaceable towel bar install, while lessening the chance of screws going into the back of the box?
One of the reasons I spend a lot of time at Home Depot is to get an inventory in my head of what items are available. Frequently during a job you have a problem like this that requires some creative thinking and if you know what’s available to work with you come up with lots of possible solutions.
I completely agree, I do the exact same thing. I like to fix things properly, and 99 out of 100 times there are creative ways to do that if you know what options there are available. Knowing and having the right tool for the job is more than half of the battle.
In the current renovation market in Canada it seems like we are always doing custom shower niches and other recessed "cubbies" for keys and sunglasses in the mudroom etc. It becomes a problem to hang a mirror or wire shelves on the other side of those and I think you address this perfectly by saying just check what is behind it. If my stud finder lights up light a Christmas tree I know to go look and in a condo/apartment just assume the worst that water lines or sprinkler lines are there. I like your solution because before puncture plates were a thing the trades used to use pieces of electrical boxes to prevent nails or screws hitting water lines or cables; you are essentially doing the same here because the "off the shelf" solution doesn't exist yet
Pure genius! Not only it solves the problem, but also sets up a lesson for the next guy if he's not properly checking the wall before touching screws. They should put a little sticker on the wall with a link to this video.
Little QR code stickers going the VC channel would be a pretty funny souvenir to leave behind.... Actually come to think of it I should really make a box of them with a link to: czcams.com/video/BGLR25EJtfE/video.html
A piece of steel stud cut with snips and bent would allow you to come up with a similiar solution that mounts to the wooden studs directly. Often times you can get off cuts of steel stud from jobs for free. It would give me the comfort of knowing someone getting out of the shower and putting their hands on the towel rod as a support (which they obviously shouldn't be doing) would be making the set screws of the towel rack the limiting factor rather than the steel plate. As an electrician looking at that electrical work makes me weep - I came from a commercial renovation background prior to getting into electrical and I find the level of care I'm able to give to other trades on a lot of jobs I've worked on is much better simply by knowing what will and won't screw over other people - a lot of electricians put zero thought into it! Drives me crazy! Great video as always! ❤️
04:55 Whenever I make even minor changes to [or in] my house, I make a point of taking pictures of the wall cavities while they are open, making paper prints of the pix, dating them, & filing them in big envelopes in a larger heavy-weight envelope labelled "house history photos". These pictures have saved my bacon decades later to help me find plumbing, electrical & general structural features hidden in walls. And yes, even in these days of digital images, the paper prints will be easier to find than pictures stored on a dead phone somewhere in your junk drawer. Think ahead - the next owner of your house will bless you, as will future remodelers, plumbers, electricians, general handy [wo]men, etc... If you are a builder, may I suggest that a well-planned photography campaign during construction might add real value to customers who understand the long-term implications of possessing a couple of 3-ring binders containing photos, appliance owners' manuals, etc. BTW, date stamping these archival materials is ESSENTIAL.
Absolutely. In facility maintenance, it is a constant challenge to keep plans/technical drawings in sync with the inexorable evolution of reality. The drift of "as-built" away from "as-planned" is inevitable. Serious resources are being funneled into innovating 'building information management' (BIM)--e.g., using AI to digest helmet/body cam footage captured during construction and maint work into 4D (3D over time) models of facility architecture and systems. Amazing stuff. In residential renos, I think of a different kind of deviation, the one between "as-seen" and "as-hacked". VC's towel bar plate is a good example of the kinds of perfectly sensible 'solutions' that can lurk beneath ordinary-looking finishing. They can be counter-intuitive and turn common practices into mistakes. (If you think about it, the best work-arounds require serious departures from normal that are successfully disguised as such.) In addition to a similar photo archive (mine's also on paper), I often try to hide breadcrumbs in the work: notes scrawled on the backs of coverplates, dates on replacement parts, etc. In this case, where the stakes are kind of high, I might have gone so far as to tuck a tiny little scroll behind the hardware. Like you, I've saved my own forgetful bacon more than once.
Hi. I just recently discovered your videos, and I enjoy them. The ones that show drywall techniques are particularly helpful to me. I wanted to drop a comment here about the terminology for one of the items you used. Those are self-drilling screws because they drill their own holes. Self-tapping screws are very different in that they tap their own threads in a (typically) predrilled hole. Self-tapping screws generally have fine threads like a machine screw, and they taper at the end, along with having a small cutter notch made into them. I have been a licensed electrician for 24 years, so I use both kinds, self-drillers and self-tappers, but they have very different purposes.
Another good lesson from this... Any time you're on a job and run into something strange, don't just assume "what an idiot", look around for a moment, often times you'll find out there's a good reason they did it that way. *A lot of times people are idiots tho*
We had water damage in the master bedroom when we bought our house. After ripping out the drywall and measuring on the other side (bathroom), I noticed the hand towel holder was drilled into the vent stack. The hvac condensate drain was also halfway out of the vent stack and "sealed" with plumbers putty. After properly tieing in the drain and patching the stack, no leaks since.
Unfortunately I've worked with many a folks who's attitude is "fxxk the next guy". I've always pushed back on that, because I might be the next guy. Perfect example is while installing a bath fan I ran out of 3" drywall screws for the blocking. Pressed for time I used 3" deck screws. T-25. Anyone who tries to replace it will be cursing my name.
cool anchor idea. Ive done drywall around an electrical box similar to that. I just built a box around the area and put a cabinet door on it. No piecing in sheetrock.
great creativity, and forward thinking. Love the channel! Please don't fall prey to the weird faces thumbnail fad on youtube, its so weird. I have learned so much from you and improved almost every aspect of my drywall work.
My favorite hack was taking a double gang decora faceplate with blanks and dremeling out the center to convert a double gang box to a single gang box for the new thermostat for my in-floor heating. I didn't want to pull the double gang box out and replace with a single gang because I'd have to patch the drywall and repaint, but I couldn't find anything like a converter plate anywhere on the interwebs. So I made one. Why decora? Because a regular faceplate screws into a switch or outlet that then screws into the box. I needed the faceplate to screw into the box because the double gang box doesn't have mounting holes in the middle where the new thermostat needed to go. So thermostat screws into faceplate and faceplate screws into box. Only decora does that. I did have to drill holes in the decora faceplate to mount the thermostat. But that was the easy part.
two-gang plates with one decora and one blank are absolutely a thing, as are two-gang decora plates with one centered opening. you just have to order online because it's not worth Home Depot's time to stock them
The "proper" solution is to remove the 2-device double-gang cover from the 4" box and replace it with a single-device "mud ring" of the appropriate depth for your drywall, or a flat cover. Of course, there is probably drywall over the corners of the existing 2-device cover, so that would require some patching/painting. A related "hack" is to use a 2-device cover backwards to go from the 2-gang pattern back to the 4" square box hole pattern, and then attach a mud ring to that, probably needing nuts for your screws. This starts to space out a measurable depth from the plane of the wall and likely looks terrible. So your solution sounds reasonable.
@@ssl3546 The thermostat doesn't actually fit in a decora hole. It's made to be its own cover plate for a single gang box. I just had to use a decora plate and blanks because a regular plate doesn't screw into the box. It screws into the switch, and the switch screws into the box.
@@johnhawkinson It's sad that I know what the proper solution is and decided not to. I'm generally not that kind of person. But I also knew how much work it was going to be repairing and painting the drywall. I only messed up hacking the faceplate once, but they're pretty cheap. It actually turned out nice looking. I just couldn't believe I couldn't find a double gang version of the thermostat anywhere unless I went with chinesium.
As for the electrical panel… Build a (false) wall in front of the panel then take a old cabinet face frame & door (or make one) and mount in front of the electrical panel… -I’ve also mounted cabinet doors over electrical panels that were installed in bedrooms
A couple of machine screws,appropriate length of course and some locknuts might of worked too. Depending if you hand room on either side for the nut. Of course you would need a really long arm to hold the nut in place.
Very grateful that you took the time to read each of our comments here! I’ve got a special request for you… Could you be willing to do a video on here where a project requires you to drill into a wall, not knowing what may be on the other side, ie electrical, plumbing or other important supply lines… Not everyone proceeds with caution, am I right??
When mounting the brackets for the towel bar, I found its good to use a small magnetic torpedo level. I place the magnetic side against the bracket and make sure that the bracket is straight before driving in the screws. I just mounted a bracket for a robe hook a few hours ago. That little set screw is a a bitch to tighten.
On that "the next guy" danger: Just glue yet another metal cover to where the screws are. At least then, you have the same level of protection than your pipes that pass a little too close to the edge of the stud.
Did the communication box have to be flush with the studs? Could you have added a couple furring strips to increase the depth of the stud bay? A few pieces of trim molding would have accounted for the overhang.
When I mounted my Rogue weight rack to the garage wall, I realized that the screws were almost as long as the 2x4 studs of the garage wall. The same garage wall I ran wire through, at the prescribed 1 1/4"depth. I knew where those wires ran, and I knew I was mounting the weight rack to that wall after I drywalled it. I plated every stud that had a wire behind it before drywalling. We no longer live in a world where all we have to worry about is 1" drywall screws or a 1/2" nail for picture hanging. How long were the screws for your TV mount?
I definitely would like to see what you end up doing with all that mess of wires. Communication box and electrical. Hopefully that makes sense. I just woke up. Haven’t made it through my coffee yet.
Genuine question, what's the advantage of this method vs using a machine screw and thin nut+flat washer if needed that you can trim with most wire strippers through the hardware?
Your solution probably works fine. But I would have preferred using 2 bolts of about 3/4 length with nuts and large washers about 3/16 diameter. With a thin washer the nut will not stick out more than 1/4 inch. I do not really like those self tapping screws, as they sometimes come loose.
You mean the strongest drywall mount available? If you're working in drop ceilings they usually leave you little scraps of metal to use I loce foraging on a job site
Nothing like over doing it. You only need a small amount of glue to hold the plate in place. The pressure from the screws will hold it. Or, just use the 2xs to hold it while you set the screws, then remove the 2xs and be done with it.
Also, instead of using a steel plate, use a thin piece of wood. I've used lath strips but instead of removing the opposite wall, I made a hole behind the the rod mount and put a small screw in it to hold in place while the end drops and adding another screw. All of the holes are covered by the flange on the rod ends, and if they protrude past the flange, a little spackle works.
A thin piece of wood is not going to give you the strength necessary for a towel rod, and still doesnt solve the problem of the screw being too long. Also, the hole in the drywall on the backside was necessary anyways....since the electronics box was the whole reason for the job. This was probably the very best possible option for strength that could've been done.
Drilling through the plate then passing screws from the communication box side ( so the heads get stopped by the plate)then using nuts to hold the towel bracket on would have saved you the cutting and the glue. Just a thought.
That was way more glue than necessary. you could have drilled and tapped the cover, and put bolts through from the back, then taped it to the sheetrock and used nuts to secure the bracket.
Carpenters do love their glue. In many industries you'd get a swift kick in the sack for pulling out adhesives while carpenters are discussing 12 types of cyanoacrylate for an hour.
As fellow a boarder in the lower mainland it's scary how often I'll see an electrical box with wires like this and it's just like 🤦♂️ the can of worms we're expected to cover sometimes 💀
Hope he shows a video of what's going on. Why not just use the panel as the junction box so that you don't have that monstrosity jbox there? It makes no sense.
@@twn5858 Believe me, half the houses (Especially here in Vancouver) people remodel these days dont make sense but drywall needs to go on it no matter the shape or size 🤷♂️
Should have used the back of the communication box to hold the self tapping screws. I imagine that's what the electrician who did that mess of a junction box next to the panel would have done. Hopefully he had a reason why he did it that way. What a sloppy mess!
not machine screws but k-lath. machine thread screws would be non coarse and threaded to like 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 10-24, 12-24, 1/4-20 etc typical k-lath are threaded to like 15 pitch much much coarser.
Ben as a master electrician in both Alberta and BC I don't think the 4 11/16" blank cover was used to code 😂😂😂. Nice work man As for that hideous ass junction box, can't guess the story, but it is garbage work. It also isn't allowed by code for a long time now as it's waaaay over the limit of 30 conductors in there. I'd have to remove it out of ocd and sanity if I bought the house like the current owner sounds like.
Rookie stuff. When replacing a laundry room ceiling fan, I had to replace the box because I couldn't find an exact replacement, therefore, the exhaust ducting was just a little too long and when I trimmed it, it wouldn't attach to the original clamps so an old coffee mug to support it to the rescue. That was over 30 years ago! I know it's there.
I agree with you… It’s all about thinking for the next guy! So many times projects are extended or prolonged by the previous contractor or handyman. Unfortunately, this is the world we live in, but it does help with job security lmao!
If you already had access behind the finished wall, all you needed was a 1/4 thin strip from one of those studs, a couple of pre-drilled holes and some drywall or wood screws sized to depth or cut off like you did after the fact.
This is the type of stuff I like about this channel. Coming up with creative solutions to problems. I always thought I was being a bit sloppy or lazy doing stuff like that but sometimes you just have to do what works.
Sometimes you have to do things this way. Most construction youtube channels won't show things like this because they want you to think they only do it the professional way.
Maybe put a piece of 1x3 or 1x4 running horizontally in the stud bay for a more replaceable towel bar install, while lessening the chance of screws going into the back of the box?
20 years later someone is gonna search why there's an electrical box in the bathroom and find this video, hopefully
One of the reasons I spend a lot of time at Home Depot is to get an inventory in my head of what items are available. Frequently during a job you have a problem like this that requires some creative thinking and if you know what’s available to work with you come up with lots of possible solutions.
It's a great excuse anyway. 😁
I bet having an annoying wife at home also helps with this decision.
I completely agree, I do the exact same thing. I like to fix things properly, and 99 out of 100 times there are creative ways to do that if you know what options there are available. Knowing and having the right tool for the job is more than half of the battle.
Dumb
My entire renovation has been stuff like that. I love that you have to get into it too. I don't feel as alone
In the current renovation market in Canada it seems like we are always doing custom shower niches and other recessed "cubbies" for keys and sunglasses in the mudroom etc. It becomes a problem to hang a mirror or wire shelves on the other side of those and I think you address this perfectly by saying just check what is behind it. If my stud finder lights up light a Christmas tree I know to go look and in a condo/apartment just assume the worst that water lines or sprinkler lines are there.
I like your solution because before puncture plates were a thing the trades used to use pieces of electrical boxes to prevent nails or screws hitting water lines or cables; you are essentially doing the same here because the "off the shelf" solution doesn't exist yet
Pure genius! Not only it solves the problem, but also sets up a lesson for the next guy if he's not properly checking the wall before touching screws. They should put a little sticker on the wall with a link to this video.
Little QR code stickers going the VC channel would be a pretty funny souvenir to leave behind.... Actually come to think of it I should really make a box of them with a link to:
czcams.com/video/BGLR25EJtfE/video.html
A piece of steel stud cut with snips and bent would allow you to come up with a similiar solution that mounts to the wooden studs directly. Often times you can get off cuts of steel stud from jobs for free. It would give me the comfort of knowing someone getting out of the shower and putting their hands on the towel rod as a support (which they obviously shouldn't be doing) would be making the set screws of the towel rack the limiting factor rather than the steel plate. As an electrician looking at that electrical work makes me weep - I came from a commercial renovation background prior to getting into electrical and I find the level of care I'm able to give to other trades on a lot of jobs I've worked on is much better simply by knowing what will and won't screw over other people - a lot of electricians put zero thought into it! Drives me crazy! Great video as always! ❤️
Rehearsal ? We don't need no stinking rehearsal.... Great video.. !!!!
I hope your project's going well, and more importantly, I hope YOU are doing even better!
Thanks 😊
04:55 Whenever I make even minor changes to [or in] my house, I make a point of taking pictures of the wall cavities while they are open, making paper prints of the pix, dating them, & filing them in big envelopes in a larger heavy-weight envelope labelled "house history photos". These pictures have saved my bacon decades later to help me find plumbing, electrical & general structural features hidden in walls. And yes, even in these days of digital images, the paper prints will be easier to find than pictures stored on a dead phone somewhere in your junk drawer. Think ahead - the next owner of your house will bless you, as will future remodelers, plumbers, electricians, general handy [wo]men, etc...
If you are a builder, may I suggest that a well-planned photography campaign during construction might add real value to customers who understand the long-term implications of possessing a couple of 3-ring binders containing photos, appliance owners' manuals, etc. BTW, date stamping these archival materials is ESSENTIAL.
Absolutely. In facility maintenance, it is a constant challenge to keep plans/technical drawings in sync with the inexorable evolution of reality. The drift of "as-built" away from "as-planned" is inevitable. Serious resources are being funneled into innovating 'building information management' (BIM)--e.g., using AI to digest helmet/body cam footage captured during construction and maint work into 4D (3D over time) models of facility architecture and systems. Amazing stuff.
In residential renos, I think of a different kind of deviation, the one between "as-seen" and "as-hacked". VC's towel bar plate is a good example of the kinds of perfectly sensible 'solutions' that can lurk beneath ordinary-looking finishing. They can be counter-intuitive and turn common practices into mistakes. (If you think about it, the best work-arounds require serious departures from normal that are successfully disguised as such.)
In addition to a similar photo archive (mine's also on paper), I often try to hide breadcrumbs in the work: notes scrawled on the backs of coverplates, dates on replacement parts, etc. In this case, where the stakes are kind of high, I might have gone so far as to tuck a tiny little scroll behind the hardware.
Like you, I've saved my own forgetful bacon more than once.
5:48 "Is this a dog's breakfast or what?" Now that's a phrase I've never heard before.
Hi. I just recently discovered your videos, and I enjoy them. The ones that show drywall techniques are particularly helpful to me. I wanted to drop a comment here about the terminology for one of the items you used. Those are self-drilling screws because they drill their own holes. Self-tapping screws are very different in that they tap their own threads in a (typically) predrilled hole. Self-tapping screws generally have fine threads like a machine screw, and they taper at the end, along with having a small cutter notch made into them. I have been a licensed electrician for 24 years, so I use both kinds, self-drillers and self-tappers, but they have very different purposes.
Slow drill on metal VanCoov. Another great idea, thanks
This is a genius idea! I will definitely use this one! Thanks, Ben!!
Another good lesson from this... Any time you're on a job and run into something strange, don't just assume "what an idiot", look around for a moment, often times you'll find out there's a good reason they did it that way. *A lot of times people are idiots tho*
I hope there was a good reason that we couldn’t see.
5:49 Heh. "A dog's breakfast". I don't believe I've ever heard that one before 😂
We had water damage in the master bedroom when we bought our house. After ripping out the drywall and measuring on the other side (bathroom), I noticed the hand towel holder was drilled into the vent stack.
The hvac condensate drain was also halfway out of the vent stack and "sealed" with plumbers putty. After properly tieing in the drain and patching the stack, no leaks since.
Great video, the Vancouver Carpenter is a true professional, always top notch info in his videos.
You know you actually like trades when it's Friday night and you're watching this.
Nice work with the electrical plate. Innovation and skill come in handy with that accessible cavity.
Ben, tks for your style and videos.
Very good idea. I have used E-box covers for "washers" but never to mount a towel bar. 😀
Unfortunately I've worked with many a folks who's attitude is "fxxk the next guy". I've always pushed back on that, because I might be the next guy. Perfect example is while installing a bath fan I ran out of 3" drywall screws for the blocking. Pressed for time I used 3" deck screws. T-25. Anyone who tries to replace it will be cursing my name.
Nice. I used one of these to repair a design flaw in the NV200 sliding door handles.
cool anchor idea. Ive done drywall around an electrical box similar to that. I just built a box around the area and put a cabinet door on it. No piecing in sheetrock.
Spoiler alert, that’s the plan
@@vancouvercarpenter 👍
This is so much better for the next electrician to work in that area too.
great creativity, and forward thinking. Love the channel! Please don't fall prey to the weird faces thumbnail fad on youtube, its so weird. I have learned so much from you and improved almost every aspect of my drywall work.
Nice one. Hanging out for the next video, can’t wait to see a solution for that!
for an even thinner install use T nuts and machine screws. Flatten out the little spikes and epoxy to the plate once tight
.
My favorite hack was taking a double gang decora faceplate with blanks and dremeling out the center to convert a double gang box to a single gang box for the new thermostat for my in-floor heating. I didn't want to pull the double gang box out and replace with a single gang because I'd have to patch the drywall and repaint, but I couldn't find anything like a converter plate anywhere on the interwebs. So I made one. Why decora? Because a regular faceplate screws into a switch or outlet that then screws into the box. I needed the faceplate to screw into the box because the double gang box doesn't have mounting holes in the middle where the new thermostat needed to go. So thermostat screws into faceplate and faceplate screws into box. Only decora does that. I did have to drill holes in the decora faceplate to mount the thermostat. But that was the easy part.
two-gang plates with one decora and one blank are absolutely a thing, as are two-gang decora plates with one centered opening. you just have to order online because it's not worth Home Depot's time to stock them
The "proper" solution is to remove the 2-device double-gang cover from the 4" box and replace it with a single-device "mud ring" of the appropriate depth for your drywall, or a flat cover. Of course, there is probably drywall over the corners of the existing 2-device cover, so that would require some patching/painting. A related "hack" is to use a 2-device cover backwards to go from the 2-gang pattern back to the 4" square box hole pattern, and then attach a mud ring to that, probably needing nuts for your screws. This starts to space out a measurable depth from the plane of the wall and likely looks terrible. So your solution sounds reasonable.
@@ssl3546 The thermostat doesn't actually fit in a decora hole. It's made to be its own cover plate for a single gang box. I just had to use a decora plate and blanks because a regular plate doesn't screw into the box. It screws into the switch, and the switch screws into the box.
@@johnhawkinson It's sad that I know what the proper solution is and decided not to. I'm generally not that kind of person. But I also knew how much work it was going to be repairing and painting the drywall. I only messed up hacking the faceplate once, but they're pretty cheap. It actually turned out nice looking. I just couldn't believe I couldn't find a double gang version of the thermostat anywhere unless I went with chinesium.
Dude I thought I was good at thinking outside the box, but that was brilliant.
Bro, you are so right. Think about the next guy. More contractors need to do that.
Definitely a creative solution!
dude, i wish you were in TX, i'd have so much work for you to keep you busy for 5 years. so hard to find quality contractors.
As for the electrical panel… Build a (false) wall in front of the panel then take a old cabinet face frame & door (or make one) and mount in front of the electrical panel…
-I’ve also mounted cabinet doors over electrical panels that were installed in bedrooms
Very creative!
A couple of machine screws,appropriate length of course and some locknuts might of worked too. Depending if you hand room on either side for the nut. Of course you would need a really long arm to hold the nut in place.
Very grateful that you took the time to read each of our comments here! I’ve got a special request for you… Could you be willing to do a video on here where a project requires you to drill into a wall, not knowing what may be on the other side, ie electrical, plumbing or other important supply lines… Not everyone proceeds with caution, am I right??
Excellent!!!
Drilling that screw and slinging PL everywhere, lol. Hope you cleaned it up right away. That stuff is like luggage, it lasts forever!
So creative!
When mounting the brackets for the towel bar, I found its good to use a small magnetic torpedo level. I place the magnetic side against the bracket and make sure that the bracket is straight before driving in the screws. I just mounted a bracket for a robe hook a few hours ago. That little set screw is a a bitch to tighten.
On that "the next guy" danger: Just glue yet another metal cover to where the screws are. At least then, you have the same level of protection than your pipes that pass a little too close to the edge of the stud.
Did the communication box have to be flush with the studs? Could you have added a couple furring strips to increase the depth of the stud bay? A few pieces of trim molding would have accounted for the overhang.
When I mounted my Rogue weight rack to the garage wall, I realized that the screws were almost as long as the 2x4 studs of the garage wall. The same garage wall I ran wire through, at the prescribed 1 1/4"depth. I knew where those wires ran, and I knew I was mounting the weight rack to that wall after I drywalled it. I plated every stud that had a wire behind it before drywalling. We no longer live in a world where all we have to worry about is 1" drywall screws or a 1/2" nail for picture hanging. How long were the screws for your TV mount?
I've had situations similar to the service repair you ran into. I use trim coil and make a chase cover. Curious about what you did in this situation?😊
Great idea if access available, thank you
Great idea
I definitely would like to see what you end up doing with all that mess of wires. Communication box and electrical. Hopefully that makes sense. I just woke up. Haven’t made it through my coffee yet.
Hey eh! Love it
Genuine question, what's the advantage of this method vs using a machine screw and thin nut+flat washer if needed that you can trim with most wire strippers through the hardware?
Your solution probably works fine. But I would have preferred using 2 bolts of about 3/4 length with nuts and large washers about 3/16 diameter. With a thin washer the nut will not stick out more than 1/4 inch. I do not really like those self tapping screws, as they sometimes come loose.
great fix...
Could have screwed it directly into the comm box. (added screw / nut combo to make it stronger)
Put it in self tapping mode. It'll automatically stop when it impacts. Loved that model til I upgraded to the new japanese one.
If you strip the first one, just glue another plate to the back of the first one! And pre-drill the second one… 😉
That’s thinking outside of the junction box!
You could have drilled some holes in teh plate to allow the glue to ooze thru..puts the fun in functional.
Sometimes it's worth to consider to have the electrical box not in the wall but on the outside of the wall.
You mean the strongest drywall mount available?
If you're working in drop ceilings they usually leave you little scraps of metal to use
I loce foraging on a job site
Good idea, but I'd prefer drilling and tapping the cover with 10-32s
Clever!
In this instance it seems like a great idea to me.
Great idea, going to keep that one filed away, thanks.
Nothing like over doing it. You only need a small amount of glue to hold the plate in place. The pressure from the screws will hold it. Or, just use the 2xs to hold it while you set the screws, then remove the 2xs and be done with it.
If someone replaced the towel rack an unglued plate would fall when the screws were removed.
Just leave a tiny note in the hardware behind the towel rack lol.
Self tappers work better at lower speed. (Too fast you heat the tip, soften the metal, dulling cutting tip)
I never predrill with driver tip screws. You're good. Press harder.
Also, instead of using a steel plate, use a thin piece of wood. I've used lath strips but instead of removing the opposite wall, I made a hole behind the the rod mount and put a small screw in it to hold in place while the end drops and adding another screw. All of the holes are covered by the flange on the rod ends, and if they protrude past the flange, a little spackle works.
A thin piece of wood is not going to give you the strength necessary for a towel rod, and still doesnt solve the problem of the screw being too long. Also, the hole in the drywall on the backside was necessary anyways....since the electronics box was the whole reason for the job. This was probably the very best possible option for strength that could've been done.
leave a note inside the towel bar holder for the next guy, hopefully they can read!
You couldn't moved the towel rack then textured and painted the two tiny areas?
couldve mounted it from the back, bolt, washer, then nut on the bathroom side. multiple ways to skin that cat
Glue rosettes to the wall, then screw towel rack to the rosettes
it works, but a pc of 3/4 plywood would be much easier for you & the next person to install a bar.
Clever trick
Why not a 1x3 (or 1x4, or 2x4) toe screwed (or pocket screwed) between the studs?
Because there was only 1/4” of space not 3/4”
You need to install Bluetooth on the towel bar. 😂
Genius
Drilling through the plate then passing screws from the communication box side ( so the heads get stopped by the plate)then using nuts to hold the towel bracket on would have saved you the cutting and the glue. Just a thought.
Sure…next time😂
That was way more glue than necessary. you could have drilled and tapped the cover, and put bolts through from the back, then taped it to the sheetrock and used nuts to secure the bracket.
Carpenters do love their glue. In many industries you'd get a swift kick in the sack for pulling out adhesives while carpenters are discussing 12 types of cyanoacrylate for an hour.
Great idea. There’s no stronger way to mount a towel bar to sheetrock
How about when the builder refused to get a dumpster for drywall scrap so it is buried on interior walls extra sound insulation
As fellow a boarder in the lower mainland it's scary how often I'll see an electrical box with wires like this and it's just like 🤦♂️ the can of worms we're expected to cover sometimes 💀
Hope he shows a video of what's going on. Why not just use the panel as the junction box so that you don't have that monstrosity jbox there? It makes no sense.
@@twn5858 Believe me, half the houses (Especially here in Vancouver) people remodel these days dont make sense but drywall needs to go on it no matter the shape or size 🤷♂️
I didn't know about communication boxes.
Why arent you going to make a video about covering the communications/breaker box?
Toggler bolt?
T-nuts can be installed almost flush with drywall
Should have used the back of the communication box to hold the self tapping screws. I imagine that's what the electrician who did that mess of a junction box next to the panel would have done. Hopefully he had a reason why he did it that way. What a sloppy mess!
not machine screws but k-lath. machine thread screws would be non coarse and threaded to like 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 10-24, 12-24, 1/4-20 etc typical k-lath are threaded to like 15 pitch much much coarser.
Ben as a master electrician in both Alberta and BC I don't think the 4 11/16" blank cover was used to code 😂😂😂. Nice work man
As for that hideous ass junction box, can't guess the story, but it is garbage work. It also isn't allowed by code for a long time now as it's waaaay over the limit of 30 conductors in there. I'd have to remove it out of ocd and sanity if I bought the house like the current owner sounds like.
Rookie stuff.
When replacing a laundry room ceiling fan, I had to replace the box because I couldn't find an exact replacement, therefore, the exhaust ducting was just a little too long and when I trimmed it, it wouldn't attach to the original clamps so an old coffee mug to support it to the rescue. That was over 30 years ago! I know it's there.
I agree with you… It’s all about thinking for the next guy! So many times projects are extended or prolonged by the previous contractor or handyman. Unfortunately, this is the world we live in, but it does help with job security lmao!
If you already had access behind the finished wall, all you needed was a 1/4 thin strip from one of those studs, a couple of pre-drilled holes and some drywall or wood screws sized to depth or cut off like you did after the fact.
1:59 put the stud flat against the wall and call it a day
Those comm boxes suck. First time anything needs worked on it will be a giant mess anyway
clever
Do something dodgy, i like it.
Justin Trudeau misses your handsome v neck shirts.
Thanks :)
Skateboards!!!
Plumbers use safety plates.
Just scribble a warning on the mount bracket with a sharpie eh?