Jeep TJ on 33's at Moab and the Rubicon - 5 years of highlights
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- I recently upgraded my jeep with a custom D44 with a rear locker, more lift and 35 inch tires. it is a beast now, but this video looks back on the last 5 years of wheeling with 33 inch tires and truetrac limited slips front and rear. It was a very competent set up and I had all kinds of fun. I hope this video serves to show you what a mildly modded Jeep can do. I wheel in the PNW and do trips to destinations like Moab and the Rubicon.
Here are some of the mods done at the time of this video
2 inch BDS lift and 1 inch Daystar body lift
- UCF tummy tuck - SYE - Adams Driveshafts - G2 cromo shafts. 4.88 gears - Detroit true tracs - Quadratec winch and lights - Smitybilt rear bumper - Rugged Ridge front bumper - trail gear rocker gards - poision spider hood louvers - Rokman gas skid - currie upper control arms
Nice to see a good ol "regular" jeep conquering some trails. Too many $100k builds out there doing the same thing.
Thanks! So many people new to jeeps get on the forums or Facebook jeep groups asking questions right away about how to put huge lifts and tires etc. My advice is slow down and enjoy what you got and make upgrades to suit what you actually need.
I have an '05 TJ Rocky Mtn with a 2.5" lift on 32" Bfg ko2's and this is by far the best and most capable vehicle I've had. This is the perfect set up for anyone competent. The aftermarket has tricked most in thinking you need 35's - 40's and a 4" - 6" lift to wheel. People who lack off road skill and common sense are usually the fools in a 4 door limo heep from '07 - present with 35's - 40's. Great video. 👍
I see so many people buy a jeep and post on the forums or facebook groups asking what mods to do right off the bat. my advice is always, drive it! its amazing what a stock or lightly modded jeep can do. all about picking the right line.
Just found your channel. this vid gives us rookies a class on learning how to do the most with the least! awesome vid
Thanks! I have actually been thinking about doing an actual how to next time I'm in moab. Sometimes that first step is the hardest
Not a Jeep guy, but can’t argue with this one….33’s and tru-tracks, low gear and a good spot…..you can’t lose.
I too have a TJ on 33”s. I’ll be looking to go chromoly axle shafts F/R, and locker in front, limited rear.
Love the ability of my 4cyl. TJ going down double black diamond trails with the big boy’s and turning heads!
I follow my son’s JL with 40’s, and surprise him constantly.
Great video!!!!
hard to go wrong with that set up.
Very impressive. Great driving skills.
Thanks, appreciate the compliment!
Don't forget to give the driver some credit, that's some competent wheelin' right thurr.
Thanks man, appreciate the compliment.
Love it dude. Tjs rock
This is great! Showing how capable a sensibly modded vehicle can be.
Glad you enjoyed! That was part of my motivation for putting this video together. On the Facebook Jeep pages and forums you see so many new TJ owners rushing the throw 35's on, often without the proper mods.
Dude! That is awesome! I have an 04 Rubicon with a 3" lift and 33's. I think I'm going to add coil spacers just to get it closer to 4 inch lift and get sway bar disconnects.
A jeep on 33's can do a hell of a lot of wheeling. I think 4 inches and 33's is a good combo for tons of articulation and good ground clearance. Especially the Rubicon you have, front and rear lockers for the win!
Love those TJ's
Amen. I find them to be the sweet spot of being new enough to have some comfort and amenities but old enough to have character and be able to work on it fairly easily.
Subbed! Makes me want to get out there and get after it!
Thank you a real jeep for a change
Amazing build bro, enjoy it !
Great driving
Thanks, appreciate that.
Inspiring. thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I love a light mod rig being wheeled. It is the most fun doing the old trails as you can get. Heavy moded rigs are fun but more of a easy button end result.
I have a TJ that I trail hard with some mods. 33's, dana 30 upgraded to the 30 spline Elocker twisting 4.88s and a 44 in the rear Elocker and moly shafts as well, 4" lifted with one ton steering. It's a blast every outing.
I do have an 89 Toyota rock crawler with tons and 40"s, with all the bells and whistles as well. It is a trailer queen and is beyond capable. It is the most boring rig I've owned because most of the trails are off and on challenging. I have certain boulder areas I mainly take it to for a challenge to make it fun.
I do prefer my jeep over the Toyota for almost all the available old trails. Just because I am constantly challenged...
well said. I'm on several Jeep facebook pages and so many people buy a jeep and ask off the batt what size lift and tires they should get. My reply is to get a winch and armor and go hit the trail as it is. find out what it and the driver can do. then modify as necessary to fit the type of wheeling they end up doing. last year I started doing some light offroading in my 99 ranger. its bone stock on 31's. and you know what....it was ridiculously fun. I took another friend with a similar ranger over a section of trail I have done many times in the jeep. the jeep you can just point it straight down the trail and drive over everything. in the long low ranger, we really had to think and plan our way through. it was a blast.
So yes, I agree with you! a moderate rig is a blast and can do a large majority of non buggy trails, and have a blast doing it.
I have a 99 TJ with around a 2.5 inch spacer lift and 32s. I'm looking to get it regeared very soon. I have the 3 speed auto and D30/35 combo and I'm wanting to go to 4:10/4.11. I have been looking forever for a D44 but it's hard to find them in 4:10. And the few times I've found them, they want crazy money for it. I'm probably doing the revolution 30 spline super 35 upgrade when I get my Jeep regeared. I've thought about adding the powertrax no slip to the D30 since I am completely open. Realistically, I have never been wheeling, just down some rough roads and I use this as a DD to get me back and forth from college and trout fishing. So I don't think I need to go too overboard
regearing makes a huge difference. its costly though unless you have the specialty tools and knowledge to do it yourself. it definately makes since to put in a limited slip or locker while doing the gears because otherwise you will pay a lot more labor down the road to open th ediff back up and add a LSD or locker. the detroit truetrac is the best limited slip in mine and manys opinion. its a helical gear lsd to no clutches to wear out. works great. also, be sure you really wont want to go bigger. 32's are not a super popular size. its what mine was when I first got it. if you are going to lift and regear I say go for 33's and 4.56 or 4.88 gears. heck even staying with the 32's i'd lean towards 4.56. but it depends on how much freeway driving you are going to do and how fast you drive on the freeway. one other though, if its a daily driver...consider just leaving it on some beefy 31's and safe all the money an hassle of lifting, gearing etc etc once you start modifying these things they have a way of sucking more and more money out of you.
@@slobert1970 Yes I definitely agree about each upgrade being a money pit lol. I would really like to get 35s one day but then I would definitely need a D44 over the D35 even with the S35 upgrade. I would then need around a 4 inch lift, which I really want (I still may opt for a 3.5 at some time to get rid of my coil spacers and add a real lift kit). But then I need adjustable lower and upper control arms, SYE, Extended driveshaft and gearing for 35s. I actually have a quote for a Ford 8.8 install and all that stuff I mentioned including regearing my D30 for $3,000 (minus lift). I am tempted to just save up for a while and get that. But some say the 8.8 isnt that great of an upgrade so I'm just going in circles. But since I don't go offroad much other than hunting and fishing, I think the 33s and super 35 with regearing is the the best option. I will have another look into the Detroit truetrac. That was my first idea years ago.
Nice to see a dana35 being used and not exploding like everyone says. You convinced me to go a similar setup
yeah, I always worried about it, but it never left me stranded. I never broke an axle shaft but twisted the splines which is what got me to finally upgrade. however, years of good service and you can see in the video i'm not on the bunny slopes. I think a Super 35 from revolution axle can be a worth while investment. and even if you stay stock 27 spline, cromo shafts are cheap and you can buy quite a few before you even come close to the cost of a D44 or even a built up 8.8.
slobert1970 thanks for the reply. I leave for the rubicon tomorrow, its been on my bucket list for awhile. Current setup is 4.2 yj with 4 inches of lift, 31’s locked front lsd rear and a t case drop. Im worried ill drag my belly on everything but we’ll see how the trip goes
@@julianhaylock9843 so how'd the trip go?
slobert1970 broke a main leaf 2 miles in.... trail repaired it, drove back to the trail head and stayed under 50 on the highway
@@julianhaylock9843 OH man, sorry to hear that. must have been a big disappointment to only get a taste. Glad you were able to limp out though, recover is freaking expensive on the trail.
Nice rig and great driving. I'll be lifting my '05 TJR with a Currie 4" in the fall.
Thanks! Currie makes top notch stuff, should be awesome for ya.
“What kind of mods do you have?”
“I have…JEEP.”
At the time of this video, it was on 33 inch tires with a D30 front and D35 rear. 4:88 gears, Detroit trutracs front and rear. cromo axle shafts. it had a 2 inch BDS lift and a one inch body lift with a "tummy tuck" (aftermarket motor mounts and trans skid that raise the belly a few inches. currie antirock sway bar in front. rugged ridge front bumper, smittybilt rear bumper and dont remember the brand of the engine skid and rocker guards. I'm sure I'm forgetting stuf lol. Now I have her on 35's with a custom D44 in rear with Grizzly locker and 4 inch lift etc etc. she's a keeper.
I'm a beginner, I love the shows where I learn!..
Glad you enjoyed! I have been thinking about doing a how to offroad video for beginners, what sort of things would you like to see?
How to go through mud up hill down. Hill . Long trails of water . In mud . And driving tips on sand when to let off. The gas . !. My 2006 Sahara edition automatic. Thanks for asking . I would like to learn to fix it . . But first my locking gas cap . ☺️☺️Thanks again . I love the jeep . My Honda was getting damaged in the mud . So I don't like being stuck in rhe mud so my little jeep is so fun tj.06!.I aint stuck now💯🌻❄️
tj's rule!
Amen!
Honestly one of the best drivers I’ve seen I’m new to wheeling in a manual how were you able to get no roll back?
well this may change your opinion. mines an automatic. LOL. both autos and manuals have their advantages but autos are great for slow rock crawling. That being said, I did drive a 105500 pound tanker truck for a living when I was younger and own a stick shift 4x4 and my first 4x4 was a stick. the trick to not rolling back is to let the clutch out slowly while still on the brakes and as soon as the clutch starts to engage and the rpms start to drop release the brakes and smoothly give it gas.
@@slobert1970 awesome thanks man love the rig tho!
@@Bucky_Bronc When I first started learning stick I practiced doing exactly what @slobert1970 described on a steep hill near my home. Did it over and over until I got the hang of it in 2wd. Then do it again in 4lo (you almost always want to be in 4lo with a stick when offroading). It's second nature now. The key is realizing that once you start to slip the clutch (the rpms drop like slobert described), you can leave the clutch pedal there while you quickly take your foot off the brake and start to give it gas. Once you are easing onto the gas you can start moving your clutch pedal out again. Hope that helps.
🔥🔥🔥
i'm debating 35s on my 06 LJ then there's regearing, new axles ,worse on gas. i was worried about performance on big stuff but clearly it will be fine ....think ill just upgrade my 33s great video
if you think there is hard core wheeling in the future, go 35s. so glad i finally did. but, 33s a lot less money and performance loss and as you can see, still pretty good offroad. overall it cost me more to modify in steps but back when i started i simply could not afford everything needed to reliably run 35s.
To run the tummy tuck you had to do a motor mount lift along with body lift correct?
yes, I did 1" body lift and 1" motor mount lift. I went with daystar for the body lift and brown dog for the motor mounts.
Are those 33x10.5 or 12.5 tires. They look really good. I like the look of the 10.5 but everyone is telling me I need to go 12.5. I have a 2000 Tj sport with a 3in bds lift.
they are 10.5. I went that route because at the time it was my daily driver. they are lighter and affect performance less than the 12.5. Also, in shallow mud, snow etc they cut through to solid ground underneath. The only time I really wished I had gone with the 12.5's is for winter wheeling in deep snow. the much larger contact patch of the 12.5's is needed when aired down and trying to stay on top of the snow. but, as you can see in the video, they work great for rock crawling and general wheeling.
Wondering about your transfer case, is it the Np 231, any upgrades to it. Your videos are great by the way!
thanks, glad you enjoy! it is the stock NP231 with no mods. so the ratio is 2.73:1. my dad also has a TJ and he went through the work to adapt the Rubicon T case in his for the 4:1 ratio its cool but was a lot of work. since mine is an auto, the gearing is low enough for me.
1:16 limited slip in action
Good eye. the detroit trutracs work good as an LSD. when a tire is in the air they dont work as well though you can drag the brake
a little to help them. I know have a locker in the rear and still have the trutrac infront. eventually want a selectable locker in front as I'm doing harder and harder stuff now.
@@slobert1970 I got true tracs front and rear and I like it I don’t do anything too hard since I’m on 33s and 3 inch lift
Have a 2000 TJ 5 speed, 44 limited slip rear, 30 font. Planning on TJM air locker in front with upgrade axles, currie 4" with upgrade tie rods and 33's.....will look into the truss for front ....what air pressure do you run ?
Sounds like you have a good set up. My dad is also in a 5 speed with LSD44 in the rear and a locker in the front. His jeep works really well. a locker in the front makes a lot of sense because when climbing ledges and hills, it has less weight on it and is more likely to unload or lift up.
In this video, when I was running 33's, I typically ran 12 PSI. now running 35's, I run 10 psi. I've never lost a bead on my steelies. If I find some money under a rock I'd love some beadlocks, but I'm pretty happy with how my rig works so I'm in no hurry.
Just proves that you don’t need 40” tires on a $100k Jeep if you know how to drive!
Thanks, i appreciate the comment. Their are certain scenarios where a giant jeep will go where I can't but just yesterday i followed a built jeep commando on 42's through a trail called boulder alley. i stayed on his tail the whole way. we stopped every couple of hundred yards and went back and helped all the struggling JK's high centered and wedged along the trail. not that i'm super great, but I have been driving this jeep for a long time and know what it can do and how to get it where I need it. he was surprised i was on his tail the whole way.
did you have a dana 35 in all these videos?
Yes. D35, 4:88 gears, detroit truetrac and cromo shafts. worked well for years but as I started doing harder obstacles and trials I twisted the splines on the axles shafts leading me to finally get a D44. when I went wtih the D44 I also went to 35 inch tires.
@@slobert1970 very impressive driving from you and performance from the dana 35, im considering putting chromoly shafts and a trutrac in my dana 35 instead of finding a d44 and locking it. I also run 33 inch tires but 12.50 wide so im a bit skeptical. Plus my d35 ring gear broke once which makes me lose confidence. My d30 has given me no issues except the lower control arm mounts which broke, but ive changed to thicker mounts.
Hey what transmission and gearing do you have? I have a 32rh 3 speed auto. I want to run 33’s/35’s eventually. I’m going to do the Dana super 35 kits. Do you recommend 4.10 gears or 4.56 with the 3 speed auto with those tire sizes? I do occasionally go on the highway (65-70mph)
I have the 42rle, a 4 speed auto. I went with 4:88's and that was perfect for 33's and good with the 35's I have now. but, the 4 speed has a very deep overdriver. I'm not as familiar with the 3 speed. also, it partly depends on how you use it. if do a lot of freeway i'd probably go with 4:10. but if you dont go much over 65 go with the 4:56. I've known many jeepers who wish they had gone deeper on the gears but not many who wish they had gone smaller. especially if 35's are in the future.
@@slobert1970 thanks for your input. I did a calculator for my 3 speed with the 35’s. With 4.10 gears at 70 mph rpm’s will be at 2755. What do you think about that? With 33s and 4.10s at 70 mph will be 2922. Will the 4.10’s and 35’s still be able to rip around comfortably off road you think?
@trailrippers1588 the auto is less sensitive to gearing than a manual. 4:10s and 35s would be ok but if it was my jeep and 35s were the eventual goal I'd go 4:56.
What gearing were you running with the Truetracs? I have a 2003 TJ and going for a similar setup with Dana 30/35, 2" lift, 33's and like to install TrueTracs front and back or at minimum in the rear with a lunchbox in the front.
sorry I missed this comment. I had 4.88's in this video and still use them with the 35's I have them now. Now I have to say, I was a big supporter of the D35 and yes, they can handle more abuse than the internet gives them credit for...but...if I had to do it all over again I wish I didn't spend a penny on my D35. in the end I was twisting splines on cromo shafts and now I have a custom D44 and dont ever worry about my rear end. if you do decide to stick with the D35, give some serious thought to going with the revolution axle super35 kit.
I'm trying to decide between 33s and a 3.5 MC short arm lift, or 35s and 4.5 inch long arm lift on my 06 Rubicon. However, the long arm lift is way more expensive. Like 3k+ because of regearing. You said you recently upgraded, do you think its worth that extra cost to go bigger for someone who would be weekend wheeling, maybe 6-7 times a year?
I just don't want to go on a bunch of trails everyone else is doing and I can't because I didn't go big enough is all.
I am so glad I finally went to 35's, but...you need to beef up the steering, and axles if you don't already have a D44 in the rear, beef up the braking etc etc. a lot to properly do 35's. Also, if you do go 35's, many love the long arms but my Dad and I both run short arms and do just fine. that would save you a lot of money. long arms can actually get hung up more on the trail as go over big rocks and ledges. I must say though, my jeep is now used almost exclusively for trails and joyriding. if i did a lot of hwy and street I would keep the 33's. my brother in law kept his on 33s and has one locker like I do now and he is still going everywhere we go. I drove his last fall in Moab for a while and remembered that I like the planted and tight feel of running 33's. Ok, so after all of that...I would probably lean towards 33's for you, but spend the money to regear no matter which way you go. gearing makes a huge difference. if you watch my latest moab video you can see the difference in 35's and 33's. my brother in laws is the white one on 33's. he got winched twice, once on hamburger hill and once on rose garden hill. his tire size definitely contributed, he is an excellent driver.
Great video. I’m thinking about taking my 2000 TJ to Moab soon. Any tips? Top essential mods to have? Extra equipment or gear to take? Also which tan top , wench, bumpers/ rockers were you running here?
armor is important, good rocker protection and recommend an engine skid. that way you can play with confidence. start small. many of the trails and obstacles have multiple lines. dont start in over your head, work up bigger and bigger. my top is a softopper, love it. my rockers are trailgear. they have served their purpose well but wish i would have gotten ones where the bar sticks out more to double as a step. the best thing about moab is there is something for everyone. you are going to have so much fun!
also, my winch is a Quadratec brand. if you can swing the change for a warn winch they are of course super reliable and well respected. but yhen ive had dozens of pulls on mine over the 9 years ive had it. i did burn out one motor, was 100 bucks to fix.
the fist time i went it was for jeep safari. incredible experience, so fun to see so many jeeps but the guided trails gave me confidence. but, i much prefer going with a small group. bring lots of sunscreen and water. spring ans fall are best, summer is HOT
You’ve got some skill behind the wheel. Are you running Dana 30 up front?
And if you don’t mind me asking, what year is your rig?
He running fool person Dana 30 crap
My pinky stronger than Dana 30
Dana 30 up front stock axles. 10 years no problems. sure i'd love to upgrade but $$$$$ had to do rear first.
@@ZaneBezesky 2006
That was an excellent video and thank you for posting!! I've been on the fence for a while debating on my setup - and now you have convinced me.
I do have a question: Those 33s that you're running - what is the width (33x12.5 or 33x10.5) and make?
those are the 10.5 wide versions, BFG MTs. I went with 10.5 because at the time it was my daily driver and wanted less weight etc. however, I wish I had gone with the 12.5s for better footprint when wheeling. especially in deep snow when I want to air down and stay on top. And thanks for the compliment!
I really like your setup - very similar to what I’m going to do with my TJ. 33x10.50 on 3.75in backspace wheel? Also wondering what flares those are
I can't remember the backspacing but 3.75 sounds about right. They are the Bushwacker flares, not the big pocket flares though. great set up. I have since gone bigger on lift and tires as I am doing more extreme wheeling, but the set up in this video is vary capable and reliable.
Great videos! Do you have the 2.5L? I have a 2001 2.5L manual trans, 4.5" BDS lift, 33" tires. I need lockers and while Im doing it, want to regear. Was wondering if you had 2.5L engine and how nice 4.88 are for highway speeds (65mph)? Recommendation would be greatly appreciated from someone with your experience.
Thanks! I have the 4.0 with the 4 speed auto so i can't really say what RPM you will run at 65 or speak from personal experience. I have seen charts online though and looking at forums I have seen others suggest 4:88s for the 2.5L when running 33's. helps those squirrels out. I would do some google searching to find a chart to show you how it would change your rpms. its often not as much as you think at freeway speeds. I will say get the lowest gears you are comfortable driving, low gears make such a difference on the trail and crawling. Also driving around town you will LOVE the increased response and acceleration.
did a google search. at a quick glance it looks like there would only be a 220RPM increase at 65 between the two gears and if thats the case go with the 488's for sure. some rpms on the freeway will not hurt the 2.5
@@slobert1970 Greatly appreciate the feedback!!! Thank you!!
@@slobert1970 Also noticed you weren't running bead locks and wondered what wheel you were using? Looking for a quality wheel that will hold a bead well when airing down. You have obviously put yours through the paces!
@@mr.s1095 You are welcome for the replies. I enjoy helping others. As far as wheels, I have steel soft 8's. I'm a big fan of steel. bends instead of breaks. in a pinch can be hammered back into "close enough' shape. that being said i haven't had to do any of that. they are tough. beadlocks are a bit more than I want to spend now and with the soft 8's i run 9 to 10 psi on the trails and have never lost a bead. one trick is that I bought the 8 inch wide wheel instead of the 10 inch wide. I currently run 35x12.5 tires and the narrower rim helps pinch the bead better at lower pressures. it would work the same on 33's.
Was your Jeep automatic or manual?
Its an automatic. I love driving manual and my 4x4 truck is a manual, but for crawling, the auto gives you much more control on the climbs and ledges. my dad's jeep is set up a lot like mine but its a manual. on the plus side he has great engine braking coming down obstacles etc, but its harder for him to finesse some of the big ledges etc.
@@slobert1970 awe okay. Do you think the TrueTracs in your Jeep would have functioned just as well with a manual transmission Jeep?
@@dad3562 Sorry, missed this question. My dad has a selectable locker in front and a true track in rear. his is a manual and set up very similar to mine and does great. if you don't need a full locker, the tru tracks are great. I wouldn't hesitate to run them on a manual. infact, I have a Ranger 4x4 manual I want to put a trutrac on.
@@slobert1970 that’s awesome! Thank you! I copied your build sheet and saved everything lol.
Is the roof rack custom?
made by kargo master but its discontinued.
What tire pressure you running?
when most of these clips were filmed I was running 12 to 14. now I run 10 to 11. haven't lost a bead yet
@@slobert1970 interesting. I’ve been running 10-12 with 33x10.5 KO2s on 7in rim and they don’t look as squishy. I may try 8-9.
@@blackjackshellac3886 yeah, experimentation is key, I'm now running 9 psi on my 35's and still no issues losing a bead. if I ever do lose one....thats what the full sized spare is for! lol. Lower pressure makes such a difference for grip!
I’ve got a 6” lift which 35 been thinking about going to a long arm set up what is yours looks like a short arm and working really well
mines 4 inches of lift on the short arms. My Dad has 6 inches also on a short arm and he does real good too, long arms supposedly work even better, but I've seen guys on the trail getting their long arms hung up on rocks and ledges. The type of wheeling I do I am always hitting my frame and mounts etc. I think I'd beet the snot out of long arms hanging down so low. so I'm not sure if I'd ever go that route unless I was going tons and 37's. mine works so well as it is I likely wont touch it....famous last words for a jeeper. If you look at some of my other videos, my Dads green jeep is on 6 inches of lift with a short arm and it does as well as mine.
@@slobert1970 I am going to swap axles out to 60 in the rear and 44 in front I did a Novak sbc conversion but after seeing your rig in action I think I’ll hold off on the long arm and see how it works lol maybe use that money and learn to drive
How much better does the antirock help with traction?
lots more articulation than connected, yet more control and less floppy than disconnected. you can adjust how loose or stiff you want it. I love it and its one of my most worthwhile mods. i got sick of disconnecting and reconnecting every time. and running disconnected and feel tippy comming off some big ledges at an angle.
if you are fully locked its maybe less of an issue, but my front runs a limitied slip and keeping them touching as much as possible is a big aid to traction.
What’s size lift u have in the orange Jeep lockers?
in the video, 2 inch BDS lift (closer to 2.5) plus 1 inch body lift (for tummy tuck) so 3.5 total. in video true tracs front and rear. I now have a grizzly locker in the rear, 5 inches total lift and 35inch tires.
@@slobert1970 How did those true tracs treat you? I'm trying to decide between true tracs and full lockers. Just for being a weekend warrior, and more overland stuff. I guess upgrading to full real lockers sort of answers that. Then again Just Empty Every Pocket!
@@oneshoeboxer8 I am a big fan of the true tracs. Excellent street manners and lots of extra traction on the trails, snow and dirt. Once you start lifting tires doing rock crawling or more extreme trail obstacles they lose their effectiveness. but everything in the video was on true tracs. I think the ideal set up would be a true trac in the rear and a selectable locker in the front since the front tires are the ones most likely to become too light or even lifted off the ground so that the true trac doesn't work.
@@oneshoeboxer8 I have truetracs front and rear also and agree with what slobert told you. If you can afford it, selectable lockers front and rear is the bees knees. For what you describe, save the money and get truetracs f/r. The only time they would let you down is if you lift a tire in the air as slobert mentioned.
Were those BFG's a 33x10.5 15 tire?
yes. when this video was filmed, it was my daily driver still and I wanted the lighter weight of the narrow 33's. they did very well on and offroad except in deep mud, sand or snow when you would want more floatation.