Easiest Way to Cover a Wing? / Balsa and Tissue Aeromodelling
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- čas přidán 6. 02. 2020
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i used to build models like that back in the early 60's some for flying and some for static display. they were mostly rubber band powered but always came out to be too heavy probably from too much glue and dope so i would turn them into gas powered with some cox glowplug motors flying them with ucontrol lines or freeflight. it was kinda before r/c was available for kids to have. i enjoyed watching,thnx.
I used to dope the entire framework before covering. Added strength plus gave a base coat of dope for fabric to stick to. Put tissue on and lightly coat outside edges of frame through tissue and it would glue tissue on. Of course it’s been 50 years since I built contest models.
dope
We used to use a wet covering technique where the tissue was applied wet and doped down. We had real dope. I don’t know how it would work with easy dope. The dope could be painted right onto wet tissue. It would soak through the wet tissue and dry long before the water dried. Yes I know it sounds like magic but, the dope would dry and glue the tissue down while it was still water wet. On larger models or RC models we would cover with Japanese silk applied wet. I did a few models using monocote but always preferred tissue or silk. It was just what I was used to.
Thank you! I am recovering from hard surgeries and this video brought me great relief
I really enjoy watching your videos!!! Thanks for the tips!!
Enjoyed watching your video which brought back memories from way, way back (being very, very old!). Things don't seem to have changed very much other than prior to covering, all surfaces were covered with "tissue paste" (no glue sticks in those days). The tissue was then sprayed with pure water and allowed to dry, using an old scent spray I recall, and yes ducky, there really were such things. If you'd done a good job the tissue would already be wringle free. The next process was brushing on the clear dope which gave off such a smell it fair knocked you over ꟷ I remember if with great affection. The tissue would then be very taut and could be decorated with coloured dope, transfers etc, all obtained from your friendly local model shop as opposed to Hobby King. PS I'm currently converting 2 Lidl gliders to powered flight ꟷ bit of a traitor to the cause!
Stick-built all the way :-) Three smells that still get me. Hoppes #9 powder solvent, butyrate airplane dope, and Windsong perfume. I wish I'd enjoyed more of the latter.
Excellente démonstration ! Merci !
As a kid I used my mom's hair spray for shrinking., dried in 20 minutes and sealed with a nice glossy finish.
I just remembered what we used to cover our model planes with. It was called silkspan.
That was the rich man's stuff! Great product.
Gotta use cellulose dope for that authentic 60s model making aroma 🤪
Buhydrate
@@sammoore9120 thats what you hear at the gym... "bruh hydrate"... ill see myself out
I love ur vids so much I’ve decided to make my own rc aircraft design based on a late war heavy fighter with an odd engine placement (Doiner do 233 if anyone wants to see what my inspiration for my build is) and it’s going to be big so I’m going to use real aircraft fabric and use actually techniques real plane fabric covering companies use on their costomers aircraft. Though ur where my inspiration to make the rc after all so thank u
So amazing.
Recovered My Dads J3 the same way, but used Irish Linnen and pinkingshear cut 2 in. Strips to double each rib,don’t remember what brand of (Dope), but was strong smelling,I think it was a lacquer product!
Have you tried ripstop fabric. This is a cheap fabric and is easy to apply and is heat shrinkable also a very strong material.
I have been into r/c since a boy and now a retired pilot at 60 with my rafters full of planes and I NEVER could properly cover. I mean I never could wrap presents with paper and I have had the best lessons you can have! This art simply isn't in my DNA.
Covered many of wing in my combat days, from silk (moms old scarfs) to silkspan, applied damp tp doped framework let dry to drum tight, then after dried apply dope to covering, done deal.
I just found you channel thanks for the info I built balsa wood planes when I was young I'm trying it again I'm and old guy 80 but its good for me to be involve Can I use tissue from the craft stores the kind my wife uses for Christmas The kit I got didn't have very good colors I mic the supplied stuff its the same thickness as hers .0015 Will it shrink the same thanks for you help
I don't care for the water based products. I prefer the tried and true methods of good old dope!!!
So I need to cut the slots in the tissue for struts BEFORE or AFTER applying Eze Dope?
Well done! Thank you
What was the other step? EzeDope and what dope?
4:58 how do you go about it if you want to warp the wing, ie washout?
how do you hold it with that?
What type of tissue is used for covering the structures?
Did you slit the tissue with a blade to fit the edges between the ribs or just press it down with the brush until it tore? I watched carefully but couldn't tell...
I usually use monokote or ultracote! Only done tissue once on a free flight Cessna as a kid!👍🏻
They're great options for larger models!
What I have found is super tough, better than tissue. I use dryer sheets and clear coat spray.
I assume after they've been through the dryer? Sounds like it would be similar to silk span.
Is solarfilm or solartex still available?
Last scene in the video is great--the plane looks like it's trying to escape, but it's hemmed in and can't get out.
Excellent video. May I ask you what type of tissue are you using since Silkspan or Japanese tissue are no longer available?
Sig still has silkspan, and their own "kolorfast" tissue. sigmfg.com/collections/finishing-accessories
I personally use ezbuilt.
easybuiltmodels.com/esaki.htm#gsc.tab=0
They don't have silkspan, but have their own domestic tissue AND "My Fuji" japanese tissue. From what I've read, it's pretty close to Esaki.
Shalom
Bottom should be covered in a complete 2 part section , then the top, tips last. Shrink bottom first as it was done first..then shrink top...you maY have incorporated warps by only doing one side top and bottom on one panel, then the other..
Do you recommend covering only the top to save weight?
Why cut the tissue? Just fold it around the front of the wing in one piece.
what about a covering film on hollow carved depron? how to glue it? what kind of glue recommended?
I've done this with Balsaloc and it worked fine.
hello, i see that the tissue has a matte side and a glossy side. which one goes to be glued? many thanks.
Rough one
What kind of tissue is this?
When you do the second layer of dope (after first shrinking) do you still need to pin it in place to avoid warping?
Yes. Always pin during doping/drying.
I've didn't understand what is the mixture rating in the latest third stage application to do it like a drum's skin ?
You probably already got this answered, but I believe it's 70% water, 30% Eze Dope.
Hi, I wanted to get into this and wanted to ask is the easy dope stuff is necessary, I've seen others just use water/ do nothing at all once the tissue is on, happy holidays and thanks in advance!
The dope helps protect the covering and strengthens the wing. It will impregnate the tissue and give it a varnished finish, adding rigidity, preventing punctures and tears, while making it waterproof. Though honestly for an RC wing of this size they should go with a heavier paper covering like silkspan that can also be applied while wet.
It's one of several methods actually. Nitrate dope is used by some, and is the "traditional" method to a lot of people. But... It has a terrible odor.
I've read of some that use banana oil, which has a similar effect to EZ Dope, but have never tried it.
A lot of modelers are using clear krylon spray acrylic or similar. Light weight and easy to use. Plus available just about anywhere. I don't know how krylon compares to EZ Dope strength wise. From what I've read, the EZ Dope makes the tissue very tough, but I'm not sure about how much weight it adds.
I’ve used the Krylon on a couple models. Both rubber power, both Guillows. One a Cesna 150, one a P-40. Both flew reasonably well for Guillows kits. The covering turned out nice and tight. The Krylon shrunk the tissue even tighter than it was with just water. It added sufficient strength that I was not worried flying them in tall grass. I didn’t have doped models available to compare weights but they didnt seem heavy to me.
Whats the thickest paper you can use for this?
You want light, non-bleeding tissue. If it maintains strength when wet, that can help with curves. Sig, Wind it Up enterprises, and EZ built Models all carry tissue specific to model airplanes.
For large models, if you want to go traditional like this, silkspan is good, available from Sig manufacturing.
Can u use anything different than eze dope?
Yes. Dope, banana oil, krylon spray acrylic... To name a few.
I would of thought that the 50/50 glue mix will cause some movement of the wood. I would rather of used the pritstick for all the gluing of the tissue.
gary murphy you keep using the word “of” when you mean to use “have”
I was wondering if that was really necessary, if they're already using a glue stick. I'm thinking about doing some simple stick models to experiment with all this.
What are the alternatives to EzeDope ?
You can use cellulose dope applied to tissue or you can cover with Oracover type covering films that use a heat iron for application. ☺️ Info on alternative dopes here: www.vintagemodelcompany.com/dopes.html
White glue like Elmer's diluted with water, about 50%
How do you do this process but with thin nylon material?
I used to use Nylon and Silk back in the day. It's a different approach altogether. Basically use Cellulose Dope all over the airframe and let dry, pinned down. Cut out your nylon panels and damp them. I used to put them in a tray of water for a while and them wring them out! Next drape the damp panels over the air frame and using the dope and a brush, stipple the edges down, pulling out the wrinkles as you go. The dope with soak through the material and stick to the pre doped air frame. Use you finger to rub the edges down. ( It's a messy business)! Pin it all down again and leave to dry. Now you can start to apply dope to the fabric. The first coat needs to be a very light coat all over, top and bottom. Pin it down again and leave to dry. You can then add heavier coats, pinning and drying in between until you are happy its taught enough and air tight. Hope this helps. Solatex or similar is a lot easier if you can get it!
@@bobi2582 thank you so much for your descriptive response. I have tried to use Solatext and so on with an iron and have never been able to grasp the technique.
I never had much success with tissue covering years ago. It never seemed to shrink enough. Never anything I could call taught. Just wavy and intermittently smooth. I bless the day shrink plastic covering arrived.
Клево
I was thought to cut a single sheet of covering that would wrap around the leading edge to cover both the top and bottom of the wing at the same time. We would dip the silkspan in water then allowed it to drip off the excess water. It was not tissue paper and was much stronger than tissue paper. The produce was called silkspan. We used dope to coat the top and bottom of the leading and trailing edge of the wing.
Then placed the wet covering over the top of the wing and allowed the top sheet to over lap the bottom of the trailing edge. Then bring the bottom covering and let it overlap the top covering that covered the bottom of the trailing edge. That way the wind could not try to get under the covering. While it was still wet we applied dope to the whole top and bottom surface. When it dried it was nice and tight. Then painted it with the colors of our choice.
nice video but you dont need the drum machine
I have a method that's way easier... Mix half and half water and white glue in a spray bottle. Spray the frame with the solution. Then place precut tissue onto the frame. It will already stick. Pull the tissue somewhat tight, spray and wet the tissue with the same solution. Then use a hair dryer on low to dry the tissue. It will simultaneously shrink, and dry stiff, and right onto the frame. The solution in the tissue will make the tissue significantly firm, and strong. Very quick and easy. It's also dirt cheap.
I'd be worried about the weight. May experiment with it though.
@@kf4293 it actually comes out quite a bit lighter than store bought dopes and glues.
Solarfilm.
Itumah kertas minyak om' klo dimarimah bwat bungkus kue wajik
It's a lot easier to use an airbrush to apply the Dope.
I’m just using a glue stick
Puffer, at 5:33 your leading edge is wrinkled/warped. This EZ dope is for the birds. Floorshine floor wax is all this crap is and sets warped and wrinkled surfaces by drying before it stiffens . I am not the only person who found this out the hard way.
EZ Dope is crap. Shrink with water, continue pulling out all wrinkles, then Krylon
spray lightly. END.
Now you just need some ailerons...😂
...and elevators judging by the lack of takeoff!
am i the only one who hates the burnt edges of laser cut balsa? sure it is better than any die cut, but i don’t want a brown frame on any of my models. oh well… sanding block at the ready.
Could have made a more flattering video at the end...?
Downvoted for not doing any sanding at all on the wing first.
I guess you missed the 0:35 mark in the video.
Zee dd's
yoohoo glue stick................ not U. H. U.
You don't know what you're doing. The dope is all you need to stick the tissue to the frame.
Easiest way!.....you only need 30 different things.
way too quiet ... speak into the mic ... please ... not to the wall ... that is not even facing us
That was awful! You fatiled to sand off the lazer burn marks, & left everything squared instead of rounding the edges off! I guess it will fly, but you could have done it so much better! We used to take real pride in our work (and I still do!) Laramie
hello, i see that the tissue has a matte side and a glossy side. which one goes to be glued? many thanks.
Generally the glossy goes out, matte glues to frame.