BRIGGS and STRATTON 19.5 Twin cylinder engine. storage TAMPERED with, STRIPPED MAIN JET , problems
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- PROBLEMS: HOW TO FIX a Briggs and Stratton TWIN CYLINDER RIDING LAWNMOWER engine that has been SITTING in STORAGE too long , repair it and make it run. Been sitting outside way too long and Someone TAMPERED with it and screwed things up. ALSO DIFFICULT: HOW TO REMOVE a STRIPPED Main Jet from a carburetor. WILL NOT START after outside rain snow water STORAGE. BRIGGS and STRATTON Industrial Commercial model 19.5 horsepower opposed TWIN CYLINDER motor. MAJOR and MINOR PROBLEMS FIX and repair: CLEAN and Rebuild carb. float adjustment needle valve gaskets and procedure. Check test and inspect all components. BENCH TEST , HEAR IT RUN! SAME AS ALL HP 18 , 18.5 , 19 , 19.5 , 20 , 21 BRIGGS opposing Twin piston Engines gold silver platinum Craftsman Husqvarna Yard Machines John Deere Cub Cadet MTD Poulan Pro
Tutorial by Jeff's Little Engine Service with exclusive permission
Copyright 2019 Lawnmower Service and Repair Tips
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PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am showing you the least expensive, quickest "backyard" methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Thank you for watching!
I recently rebuilt the carby on my 18.5 hp B&S twin on my work bench. My chickens enjoyed your excellent video.
I just picked up one of these for a transplant into a New Holland LS45. I have seen them around but never knew much about them. Thank you very much for posting this. I'm glad to hear they are good engines.
One of the best carb rebuild for this engine on CZcams. Sounds rubs good.
I have the 18 hp twin in a riding mower, other wise just like that one. Just replaced all but the head gaskets as the engine was leaking oil on the floor from some place. Bottom seal as well. Now I'm going into the carb and found your video. Thanks!
Jeff, you are a sanity saver. I bought a mint condition '95 craftsman rider w/19hp opposed twin. Never work on one before. Figured how to hook the carb,choke,and governor linkages. Engine not getting gas. Learned to rebuild fuel pump. Still no gas. Rebuilt total 3 times. Still no gas. I was pissed.😠 The by chance your video came up. At the very end I saw the problem. You showed how you hooked up an external fuel bottle and I saw the problem. The previous owner, on his attempt to refurbish the rider had the fuel line and crankcase hoses switched. Switched them back and the motor runs great. Thanks Jeff. Live and learn I guess.🤔
Simply excellent. I'm one of the untrained, and your video helped tremendously. Also, whether intentionally, or accidentally, using a line from Shakespeare, now the familiar cliche "one fell swoop," changing it in a clever turn of phrase to "one fail swoop" as the first attempt to put the pump together failed, was well done.
My first lawn mower that I bought with my own money was a 1994 Lowe’s 44’ cut with 18hp Briggs opposed twin. That was the best engine and sounded so good. I had that mower for years and never had to work on it, not one time!
You are right, these engines purrrr
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice I got a almost new 46 opposed to replace a bad one, that lasted 22 yrs until it ran low on oil. It is one of the last opposed (from 2001). The mower now runs and sounds great! I'm wondering if that motor could be used to replace a V-twin in the future? I really prefer the opposed engines.
Excellent run through on, in my opinion the best Briggs engine ever built. I just got one today. 6/7/20
It's in tremendous condition. 1995 though 1998 off of a Murray lawn tractor.
I have plans for this thing.
Ps. I picked it up for $200.00.
A steal in my opinion.
my favorite engine too
Can you adjust the valves on this specific engine?
These are great engines. Completely 100% worth fixing
Good video that shows lots of details about these engines. Thank you for sharing, and thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Excellent vlog....
I'd suggest using a work bench, lol! I couldn't have been doubled over. My back would have been letting me know that position ain't natural!
Great video. I did the same fix on the 18 hp opposed twin. Those are the best engines Briggs ever made.
I agree!
Hi Jeff: Just found out you have this second channel. Those opposed twin engines are the best engines Briggs ever made. Don't know why they discontinued them. Thanks for that great video.
Hi friend! Yep it's me!
that spring was in the carb chamber as spares, its a spares compartment for the untrained.
Also invest in a cheap small grill oven to heat parts, like stuck main jetts, it works well.
Oh nice, this novice is going to be looking for that spring now :)
I would recommend spraying Carb Cleaner through the main jet and the port that it feeds through before attempting to remove it, if it is plugged, you can clean it with wire in place. The Fuel Accelerator, if possible turn your engine over and check to see if it is working before messing with it as well, many cleanings can be done with the carb and manifolds in place.
Good tips!
found your vid after i tore apart my engine to clean it up. Never run across a flathead briggs with a non mikuni type carb. Pretty awesome. 1993 white lawn tractor 180T. Was just gonna adjust the valves and bam, flathead? lmao shocked me. Anyhow when i work tiny parts sometimes i use a q-tip and tiny dab of petroleum jelly on the base to hold it when i assemble.
My god I need one of these. There excellent engines. Mine finally gave out after 22 years and many hours. A MTD Lawn machine 46 inch.
I have a 20 horse. I cannot find a video about it anywhere
Great Video! 😎 I’ve Got An 18 Hp Like That I’m Working On Now That Somebody Put In A John Deere 115 Automatic Hydrostatic Rider, Cleaned The Carb Yesterday & Actually Forgot About That Hidden Main Jet, Although It Runs Better Now.
Nice 👍. My favorite Briggs engine.
Good video, I tinker a lot with mowers as a hobby. Have three of these engines, one is surging this video will help. Thanks.
I have 3 of these engines aswell.. Lmfao. The 16.5, 18.5 and 19.5. This video is gold
Great Video..I bought a used mower with the same engine but 16hp..so far is good..this video taught me to understand my engine a lot..
. I use only gas NOT ethanol ...should I open the carburetor drain bolt and spray it?...
Thank you
sure, it couldn't hurt
You're funny with the cute LITTLE spiders!
Very helpful video.
Can you please do a engine tutorial on this engine such as the head gaskets ,oil main seal pretty much a rebuild of the motor how to adjust the valves thank you sir!
They don't sell the internals for this engine I heard
Man I just picked up a 20.5 hp opposed engine like yours in running condition for 75.00 . Will clean it up and sell it.. I also have to clean up the carb on family members craftsman with the 19.5. Was running good then started hunting..I am assuming it got some junk in the carburetor, it sat for a long time..thanks for the video.
@NuBz so that would want to purchase one , wouldn’t they 🤔hmmmmm I wonder , oh yeah I sold it for a profit …thanks for the heads up .👍
I understand this is three years late but when you were having a problem mating the fuel pump you are supposed to put the valve gasket over the two alignment pins. You got it over the left one but not the right. Big spring will buldge but it will stay to get them together.
Great video. *correction** the bolts holding the intake manifold are T30 Torq bits(at least they were on mine). Might be the reason you were having trouble tightening it. Again great vid very well put together
The ones on mine are 5:16 and t30 torx
Thank you for the grate video. I have tried to put a drop of oil on that spring which is on carb body and it held even up side down. Than I put pump on the table and carb body on the pump. Worked grate
Great tip!
Great video, thanks for making it. Will be a huge help for me with my new to me 18hp opposed twin.
Good stuff right there! Thanks for the video. I have this motor on my Craftsman Lawn Tractor.
I have the 20hp opposed twin B&S. Currently on a mower with a locked up trans. The mower was free.
Don't really have a use for it but I couldn't say no to a free engine... LOL
use a little rubber cement to hold the diaphragm in place during assembly , also works for keeping other types of gaskets in place during assembly .
good tip!
Working on a 16HP myself. Didn't strip the main jet thankfully. Turns out the Previous owner had the fuel/return pipes the wrong way around!!
Great video, I have that same engine on my riding mower. It has compression issues plus fouls out one of the plugs. I am weighing my options on what to do.
Just by looking at the motor sitting on that pressure washer cart it looks very mean..
And i like those type of motors as well..Cheers 🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
yes! It runs pretty good too!
Watch those 5/16 bolts that hold the air cleaner housing to the carburetor. One of mine vibrated loose, got swallowed by the choke, and ultimately stuck in the valve. Thankfully nothing was damaged, but lesson learned. Loctite next time.
oh damn ... good tip
I misplaced one of those 3 bolts.. Now you got me worried
@@LimeyLeland1
Yeah, I knew I put all three back on, then I took off the air cleaner and only saw two. I knew there was only one place it could’ve went. The intake is simple enough to remove, it’s worth a peek.
VERY NICE VIDEO.
Thanks for watching
Workin on a v-twin briggs on a husqurvana mower the carb setup is a pain cramed into place but sounds like a big cammed B-mod
I put a little bit of transmission assembly thick grease on the little springs to keep them from falling out. Once gasoline is pumped into carb it dissolves the grease.
great tip!
Lol that spider trying to take over!
Jus run the engine when you’re done & drain the oil! Never know what gear grinded his behind!
Nice video!
Your giving me maintenance ideas too 👍🏼👌👋🏼
Bahahahah that rooster!
LOL thanks for watching
very nice carburetor rebuild
Thank you for watching
A true thing of beauty !!
I agree
Great engine...I'll take it !
Dab of grease to keep springs in place would help alot. I often would use a dab of super glue to keep them in place. I use both methods on oil cooler o rings on Detroit 60 series
Great tip!
WOW GOOD VIDEO Thx Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
You were asking if there was a better way to hold those little springs in place if you use a little bit of Vaseline it’ll be like glowing it in there and then once you start running fuel through there Wednesday Vaseline out
Damn voice auto correct you were asking is there a better way to hold those little springs into place there is use a little bit of Vaseline on spring mount and it’ll hold the spring into place and it will wash out once you start running fuel through it
great tip! thanks
mine is only running on 1 cylinder going to change the coil out and see if it fixes
The 3 screw (on fuel pump face plate) carburetor with the adjustable low speed mixture screw is the BEST carburetor for the B&S opposing twins, no matter the Hp, unless you can find one of the even older 3 screw with the high speed mixture screw that's in the bowl drain plug. Those carbs are extremely hard to find!
righton I agree
A little grease will keep springs in place to get gaskets and diaphragm on.
Good job ,the same motor on my mower broke a rod and I am ready to rebuild the engine but I have difficulty putting the new crankshaft and new crank in time together with the governor any guidance thank you
I have a Craftsman 917.270810 with that engine in it. I bought it new 24 years ago. Been great, motor still runs strong.
However, I have a problem with the throttle linkage. Took the carb off to clean it and possible rebuild. Afterwards, moving the the throttle cable back and forth, the little plate that moves to the idle screw only goes all the way down(wide open) to barely above this postion. Doing over and over I broke the throttle cable. Bought a good used one.installed Tried adjusting governor slide arm(spring with screw inside on pivoting arm) to go all the way down to make it so that the idle screw plate comes up all the way to the idle screw. I can get it to lock into idle position ,but as soon as I move the throttle cable to increase speed it disengages and won't go back to idle position when I move the cable via lever to idle position.
I verified thru videos and pictures all the springs and linkages are in correct formation. Been working this problem for 2 weeks and I am going crazy!!!!!! PLEASE any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
And by the way, liked your video on this. I just subscribed.
$50 to the 1st person who can solve my problem.
Problem solved.
what was it?
What was the fix as that's what's mine is doing
I used to race one of those engines except I remove the governor you would easily do 75 85 miles an hour
Dang I got the same engine but it's a 18.5 hp and removed the govenor it was a project I did with my grandpa and is what got me hooked on working on small engines and I just recently started working on it again to fix it back up but any ways it was fast but definitely not 75 mph dang I bet that would be fun
there is a nother motor out like that that mtd had on a rider it was a tushmei motor a 1.5 motor i think
Back again and you were a BIG HELP! Dragged the tractor back out after 2 years of sitting. Went through it and it almost started. Can't find a gasket for the base of the air cleaner. Probably have to make one. On top of the carb, there are 3 screw holes and also a small hole that spits out gas. The hole also lines up with the bottom air cleaner plate. Wondering what that hole is for. I can get the motor running as long as I plug that hole. I'm half tempted to cut a gasket and cover that hole up. Any thoughts on what it's for?
Thanks for watching. I am not sure what that hole is for but it sounds like the carb may be flooding
The carbs for this engine all seem to have the same problem; they leak and start POURING gas into the engine. I'm on my third replacement carb...after cleaning each one countless times.
I have not experienced many problems with this original manufactured Briggs carb. Cheap aftermarket carburetors will give you many problems.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice What's the best price you've found for a genuine original carb for this engine? I went to Briggs and Stratton website and they're asking $230 for one. At that price I could get a lot of something else....
They're such a simple little thing, they can't be WORTH more than $30. Somebody is gouging heavy.
Thanks for sharing, great video 👍👍
PULL THE CARB OFF THE MANIFOLD. MAKES ASSEMBLING THE PUMP SIMPLE, (YOU LOWER THE CARB BODY DOWN ONTO THE PUMP ASSEMBLY) BUT HEY, A WORK BENCH WOULD BE MOST HELPFUL. I USED TO USE A SMALL END TABLE BEFORE I BUILT MY SHOP.
These engines are usually decently quiet at operating RPM due to the opposing cylinder cancellation effect:)
time to fill it again 😁
I would use some grease to hold a small carburetor springs in place
good tip
Good video but mine is leaking out oil on the left side. Blown out gasket and I have a hard time finding the right parts. I need the oil pan gasket part number if you know what it is. I have the same motor in my craftsman.
Thanks for the info. I have a briggs 18.5industrail commeral on my tractor .Has a oil leak from the top. Can you show something about replace that ?
check upper crankshaft seal
I have a similar engine but mines not turbo cooled mines just the craftsman i/c 19.5 twin briggs and stratton that needs work
I think these are great engines. I just replaced the sump gasket on one that I than dropped into a newer Craftsman mower, but not so fast, its still leaking. The leak is coming from the back near at the bottom of the rectangular inspection plate, the oil is than making its way to the side around the base of the oil dipstick, is it possible that the engine could still be leaking from the sump after just replacing the sump gasket? Or do you think its now the gasket for that back rectangular inspection plate? The engine is from 1993 I believe. The seal isnt leaking and they say thats the 3 main spots for leaks, seal, sump and back plate. If it is now just that back plate, I was told I could use a silicone gasket adhesive, so I don't have to wait on another gasket to order, which do you reccomend the ultra black oil resistant silicone? What are my chances its now just that back plate? Oil is not leaking anywhere else just the very back and around the base of the dipstick, no where else around the sump. I really don't want to have to pull the engine again.... So I'm hoping its the backplate now. If that does not stop the leak, than I am using the silicone with a new gasket on the sump the next time, I have more sump gaskets on me.
I changed the sump gasket on one, one other time, that fixed the problem, that time. The oil was coming from the same spot the back area. This time I changed it, its still leaking, its gotta be that back plate, I hope! Aside from that, the engine itself runs great. Cant sell the tractor with an oil leak...
The Tractor had one of those crappy 500cc Briggs single cylinder inteks, that took a shit as most do, going to an opposed twin 694cc, the tractor will be bulletproof once I sort out this oil leak. I bet the engine will still run, long after the tractor breaks down beyond repair. Its one of those newer Craftsman T2200 from 2014..
Yea it was that back inspection plate gasket. It leaked and made its way over by the base of the dipstick. Once I changed that gasket, it was good to go.
It's probably a good idea to change that back plate gasket when you change the sump gasket, those are the most two common too leak after a long period of time. Niether will now with that silicone added with the gaskets. Great engines, I'm getting another one for $40 bucks real soon, great deal.
Hello. I have one of these engines on an older Ford YT16 mower I just bought. Can you tell me the tapped hole size on the output end of the crank by fastener size and thread pitch. The electric clutch is in the way to determine the bolt size. Thank you.
👍🏻😎good video!
Thanks for the visit
I'm noticing that these sound like they have knock. Is that typical of an opposed engine like this? Just a louder sounding rotating assembly I'm assuming. I repowered a mower with one of these and im hoping its not going to grenade.
These are good engines.
Not debating of they're good or not. Just curious if they are typically louder sounding than a single or v-twin when running?
MTD used a ton of these on their tractors. See em all the time on Facebook for cheap. Since the tractor itself doesn’t do much, & pretty much falls apart around the engine u can find em at scrap yards w a bad starter.
All the 3 18hp engine I had needed a starter. Coils were good, & I had a JD116 I kept swapping em out on. Had 4 brigs twins at one point.
They don’t like to run without the shroud/they overhead easily, the 1st one I blew up on accident.
The sump gasket likes to leak. Mine wasn’t leaking when I put it in the 116 but after some hours of use the gasket failed, & just kept adding oil. Was gonna fix it but never did. Eventually sold it to a guy that’s gonna fix it.
I’ve got too many projects on the table rn. 5 other garden tractors in better shape. That need the $ more. 1 needs a motor, all of em need tires.
Interesting story thanks for commenting
Always bolt down an engine before test fire! Had a 8hp I worked on just setting on my work bench (with gas in attached tank...duh) pulled starter rope just to check compression and the damn thing started about half throttle! If you could have seen me chasing that thing around the bench knocking things all over the floor while I was trying to get it shut down (no kill switch) you would have peed your pants laughing !
LOL! good story thanks for the comment
I take it the compression was good.😉
I've got one of these. Put new head gaskets and manifold gaskets in. Rebuilt the carb also. Works good except for a little exhaust smelling like it's running too rich. Not real bad but not my idea of perfection. I'm beginning to wonder if it needs new valves and valve guides and I think oil is getting past the guides which is causing the odor. Maybe need a ring job also.What's your opinion? Got the whole sears tractor for 70 bucks. Put a plow on it for snow. Has Worked great for 3 years. Has an electric winch on it to lower and raise the blade.
these older engines run more rich than the newer EPA mandated engines.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Thanx for the tip. My project is a new paint job. This thing rides so smooth compared to my newer single cyclinder. I'm thinking new paint now.
I have a engine like this. It recently started cranking hard. It starts when it is cold, but when it gets hot it won't start? Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks!
Put a little grease on the little copper springs and it will hold them in place
Same motor here.. changed the carburetor and now the head gaskets went and I hope that’s it
good job perfect thank you good info
Glad it was helpful!
that friggin rooster had me laughing haha
Actually using the gasket maker is just as good as buying a gasket the problem is people don't understand how to use it correctly your suppose to hand tighten the bolts let it sit for like 1 hour or so then tighten them little more with a rachet then let it sit for like 1 hour then fully tighten it
When you tighten it completely the 1st time it just pushes it to the ends of whatever your putting it on
Listen for him to stop for a few moments - hear shotgun blast - he come back and hear rooster no more.
HAHA!
But can it make that 1970 John deere roll or is it not enough hp to
Mine only leaks a little oil from whoever put the head gasket seal on that engine was given to me so I'm not worried about that small problem yet but that's my biggest engine I have that i can try on the old john deere its just that mower's metal is alot heavier than all these newer mowers
That engine can pull craftsmen mowers because those 90ies and 80ies craftsmen mower's metal thickness is thinner
I’m trying to wire this engine into the body of a Craftsman gt6000 that used to have the Koehler Vtwin 26hp in it. Can’t figure out the wires. Engine starts up but can get it to go. Any advice? Love your vids!
If it has a red and white wire, The red wire DC power usually charges the battery and the white wire is usually AC power that directly runs the lights only when the engine is running
Does this engine have valve adjustment? I have the same one and it seems to have a hard time turning over.
I have never had to adjust the valves on this style of engine and I have worked on hundreds of them!
Do you have a link to the proper carb rebuild kit for this engine?
No but I do want to suggest looking for the late number and going to ebay and buying a whole new one for 40 buck because I think a rebuild kit is more expensive 😂
@@kurayami3857 yeah I bought the rebuild kit and it was the wrong one. Ended up just buying another carb. Running better now
@@madmaxmotovlog7342 that's good wish you the best of luck on what ever comes up!
Whats in the fuel that causes all that corrosion?
I just disassembled the same engine, totally corroded on the outside due to mice building a nest on it, but the inside doesn't look anywhere near as bad.
Ethanol attracts water and then it oxidizes or corrodes metal
Do you happen to know the valve adjustment specs for this engine?
I have a engine like that on my Toro mower I replace the carburetor I replace the starter I replace the battery I replace the coil and plus I keep on changing plugs every time I run it as always what could be the problem
Hey Mr. Jeff 🙋👍👍👍
Just got one of these for free on a mower 14.5 hp it turns over very slowly gonna grab a new battery and see if I can get her goin
Also make sure the ground cable from battery is grounded good
top!!!!!!
I'm rebuilding one of these carbs and the main jet is stripped. Is it necessary to remove it to make sure its clean, or should it be ok if I can spray carb cleaner through it?
unfortunately it needs to be removed to clean properly.
15:30 sometimes a star drive will grip a stripped hex.
Good tip
I have a wire that goes in between the carburetor and the fly wheel. did you have any electrical cables going around?
"messing with it" you gotta do something when the junk won't restart when you shut it off.
Yes i suppose but the previous owners repairs made the current issues harder to fix
the p washer frame purfect run test bench. hahhahha wow..
never try to remove main jet just clean in place , spray mopar penentraing fluid in bowl and tilt carb so fluid is down in that cavity , leave it sit for few hours or overnight etc , once you use the mopar fluid you will never buy carb cleaner again its junk . spray some in a jar enough to cover yer jets etc and your mind will be blown how it cleans the gum and varnish away .
That is a great tip!
I have a engine just like this but 17hp. It turns over hard. It will start but when it is hot it will not crank. It is like it turns to slow to start.Any ideas?
warm start problems are usually from a floodig carburetor in my experience. I would replace the carburetor float needle valve and adjust the float
where to for nd lawn mower junk yard
What is the model number on the muffler? and will it fit the 461777 0137-e1 opposing twin? I am having a heck of a time trying to find a replacement for mine, that is so rusted out i cannot find the part number.
I've heard of shadetree mechanics before, but never in the dirt mechanics! I just put a new carb on a 16 HP twin L Head. It only cost $23.00 on eBay. Why mess with rebuilding a old one?
Price can be a factor, other times the china clone carbs can fail quicker then the original.
I laffed so much with all them critters
Can you still get rebuild kits for those antique fuel pumps?
yes, from many diferent sources