Thank you for a great tutorial video. I have a 2010 Murano. I started with another youtube video that demonstrated the control arm replacement. They did not disconnect the brakes or knuckle and managed to make it look easy. I was not so lucky. I ended up putting a slice in the new control arm boot and managed to separate the CV from the gear box. I wasted three days just doing the driver side. It was a nightmare. I stumbled onto your tutorial and was able to complete the passenger side in just four hours. This is not a job for a beginner. A healthy vocabulary of curse words is a must. As far as tools I don't have a lift so jack stands had to do. I have an impact wrench which saved some time. I did end up purchasing a set of pickle forks that made it easier to separate the old control arms from the knuckles. I also purchased a ball joint puller that made it easy to separate the steering rod joint from the knuckle without damaging it. I spent about $60 on those two tools. You can get away without these tools but they made the job much easier. Thank you again.
Sir I had one heck of a fight last night for hours last night trying to get the back right bolt lined up and the control arm lined up to get the bikt in 😂. Your video is the ONLY one out there that is the PERFECT tutorial that shows the EASYEST way to change them out from what I'm gonna call the broke folks way (without a lift) 😂. They straps and the sway bar bolt is EXACTLY what u stress as LIFE SAVOR! I didn't take the sway bar loose and I didn't strap up the knuckle and let me tell you it beat me up like a redheaded stepchild all night 😂😂. But after watching your video, I just wanted to say THANK YOU! It makes things a lot easier....well done and thx again!
Completely saved me replacing my 2011 Altima (hybrid, same as regular for control arms) lower control arms. Had car in garage, one control arm out and could not get the new one in, trying to get follow instructions from 1aauto (both the Altima and Murano versions) because the bushings for the subframe bolts do not allow alignment to pass the bolts, even with jacking up the bearing/rotor. Prior comments are very true that doing on a lift in a shop is different and on the ground at home, this method is the only thing that worked for me. I’m not totally sure you have to take out brakes, but I followed these instructions and now my car is not stuck in my garage on a jack. Thank you!
Great video. This does make it much easier. I had to watch a bunch of 1aauto videos for torque specs. . Torque specs are 107 ft-lb control arm bolt (Altima), 117 ft-lb control arm bolts (murano), 46 ft-lbs ball joint, 103 ft lbs strut bolts, 58 ft-lbs Sway bar, 98 ft-lbs brake caliper, 20 ft-lbs brake guide pins.
It was difficult, but i did it. Thank you very much for your video and advice. But i have a small leak right know ( seems to me from stearing system) . Wheel alignment tomorrow.
Videos like this are what I call TRUE how to. Another on this shows it done already, but not how done. This is about the same as for 2014 Nissan Maxima. I torqued the two inner bolts on the control arm to 117, and the ball joint to 46. You need to really really really get that brake caliper high up and out of the way. I tightened down the control arm inner bolts after getting the ball joint connection hooked up, gave me more wiggle room. Also, had to put a jack under the ball joint area to hold that assembly up. Taking off the sway arm was much necessary. Thanks again for this video...now i have to do the other control arm argh!
I have seen other videos about replacing the lower control arms and your video sir will save someone hours of trying to get the control arm off and on. Thank you very much. I have a 2012 Nissan Altima and have to replace both control arms. I replaced the driver side which took me all day. But I’m sure after watching your video the passenger side will not take as long. 😊
Those failing bushings will cause erratic tendencies to pull hard to the right or left (randomly) under acceleration like you say. I'm dealing with the same repair today, the bushings on both sides have gone bad. Cheapo J-hooks for hanging the break lines can be bought at any automotive store or you can manufacture your own, but I highly recommend them.
is it necessary to remove the knuckle ? I am in process of doing my 2014 pathfinder and would like to remove the least thing as possible lol.... will sway bar link and tie rods removal be enough ? lol
How much would it cost to replace these, how many hours of labor is this? I keep getting quotes for 700-900 on my Murano with my parts included. Seems kinda high if it takes 3-4 hours.
Didn't show how he took off the Lower Ball Joint. And you don't need to take all that stuff off. Didn't look much easier than just doing Ball Joint, and the 2 Control Arm Bolts. They always take a bit of influence to get in the Sub Frame. No big deal.
Not necessarily unless he was doing the brakes as well, I just did this job, and I had to remove the caliper assembly, and disc, I don't think he had to remove the abs sensor, I didn't have to. I also separated the cv axle from the knuckle. Without the removal of these components, control arm will definitely fight you, and you are likely to damage the contrl arm bolts.
thanks man! struggled for literal hours with the back bolt... until i watched this😂 passenger side should be a breeze now.
Because of your tricks, I was able to do it in less than 2 hours.
I really appreciate your hard work.
Thank you for a great tutorial video. I have a 2010 Murano. I started with another youtube video that demonstrated the control arm replacement. They did not disconnect the brakes or knuckle and managed to make it look easy. I was not so lucky. I ended up putting a slice in the new control arm boot and managed to separate the CV from the gear box. I wasted three days just doing the driver side. It was a nightmare. I stumbled onto your tutorial and was able to complete the passenger side in just four hours. This is not a job for a beginner. A healthy vocabulary of curse words is a must. As far as tools I don't have a lift so jack stands had to do. I have an impact wrench which saved some time. I did end up purchasing a set of pickle forks that made it easier to separate the old control arms from the knuckles. I also purchased a ball joint puller that made it easy to separate the steering rod joint from the knuckle without damaging it. I spent about $60 on those two tools. You can get away without these tools but they made the job much easier. Thank you again.
Sir I had one heck of a fight last night for hours last night trying to get the back right bolt lined up and the control arm lined up to get the bikt in 😂. Your video is the ONLY one out there that is the PERFECT tutorial that shows the EASYEST way to change them out from what I'm gonna call the broke folks way (without a lift) 😂. They straps and the sway bar bolt is EXACTLY what u stress as LIFE SAVOR! I didn't take the sway bar loose and I didn't strap up the knuckle and let me tell you it beat me up like a redheaded stepchild all night 😂😂. But after watching your video, I just wanted to say THANK YOU! It makes things a lot easier....well done and thx again!
Thanks for showing tips and tricks for those of us without a lift! I’m doing this job right now and, I’m going nuts!
Completely saved me replacing my 2011 Altima (hybrid, same as regular for control arms) lower control arms. Had car in garage, one control arm out and could not get the new one in, trying to get follow instructions from 1aauto (both the Altima and Murano versions) because the bushings for the subframe bolts do not allow alignment to pass the bolts, even with jacking up the bearing/rotor. Prior comments are very true that doing on a lift in a shop is different and on the ground at home, this method is the only thing that worked for me. I’m not totally sure you have to take out brakes, but I followed these instructions and now my car is not stuck in my garage on a jack. Thank you!
Great video. This does make it much easier. I had to watch a bunch of 1aauto videos for torque specs. . Torque specs are 107 ft-lb control arm bolt (Altima), 117 ft-lb control arm bolts (murano), 46 ft-lbs ball joint, 103 ft lbs strut bolts, 58 ft-lbs Sway bar, 98 ft-lbs brake caliper, 20 ft-lbs brake guide pins.
It was difficult, but i did it. Thank you very much for your video and advice. But i have a small leak right know ( seems to me from stearing system) . Wheel alignment tomorrow.
I followed your instructions to the tee and you saved me a lot of time and frustration I appreciate what you showed me. Thanks.
Videos like this are what I call TRUE how to. Another on this shows it done already, but not how done. This is about the same as for 2014 Nissan Maxima. I torqued the two inner bolts on the control arm to 117, and the ball joint to 46. You need to really really really get that brake caliper high up and out of the way. I tightened down the control arm inner bolts after getting the ball joint connection hooked up, gave me more wiggle room. Also, had to put a jack under the ball joint area to hold that assembly up. Taking off the sway arm was much necessary. Thanks again for this video...now i have to do the other control arm argh!
I have seen other videos about replacing the lower control arms and your video sir will save someone hours of trying to get the control arm off and on. Thank you very much. I have a 2012 Nissan Altima and have to replace both control arms. I replaced the driver side which took me all day. But I’m sure after watching your video the passenger side will not take as long. 😊
Thanks for the simplified and direct version on the replacement of the CA on the Nissan Murano!
Great explanation and tips.
I really like the way you explained your steps
Huge thank you!!! Going to do it next week. Waiting for control arm. Do you know torque specifications. I can't find them yet. Thank you very much.
Those failing bushings will cause erratic tendencies to pull hard to the right or left (randomly) under acceleration like you say. I'm dealing with the same repair today, the bushings on both sides have gone bad.
Cheapo J-hooks for hanging the break lines can be bought at any automotive store or you can manufacture your own, but I highly recommend them.
You help me so much thx
You are welcome. Glad the video helped.
GREAT video !!!!
I reckon it wouldn't hurt to finish the entire job up w/ an ALIGNMENT, eh?
Great work sir.
hi, thank you for the excellent video, how long did it take you to finish the job?
I can't really remember how long it took but it was probably under 3 hours.
Glad you liked the video.
is it necessary to remove the knuckle ? I am in process of doing my 2014 pathfinder and would like to remove the least thing as possible lol.... will sway bar link and tie rods removal be enough ? lol
Is this the same for the 04 model?
Thank you for the video!!
How much would it cost to replace these, how many hours of labor is this? I keep getting quotes for 700-900 on my Murano with my parts included. Seems kinda high if it takes 3-4 hours.
I pulled my cv axle out, that was harsh. If I wasn’t so used to rebuilding cvs for Isuzus I would’ve been screwed
Didn't show how he took off the Lower Ball Joint. And you don't need to take all that stuff off. Didn't look much easier than just doing Ball Joint, and the 2 Control Arm Bolts.
They always take a bit of influence to get in the Sub Frame. No big deal.
Did you have to do an alignment after i have to do my wifes
I understand you should get an alignment after replacing control arms.
Did you really have to take apart the brakes? Couldn't you have just removed the control arm just removing the 3 bolts holding it in there?
Not necessarily unless he was doing the brakes as well, I just did this job, and I had to remove the caliper assembly, and disc, I don't think he had to remove the abs sensor, I didn't have to. I also separated the cv axle from the knuckle. Without the removal of these components, control arm will definitely fight you, and you are likely to damage the contrl arm bolts.
But she did it on a lift. That's the point of this video...