How to Cut/Re-Install SRAM Brake Hose
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2017
- Often when you purchase a new set of SRAM brakes the hoses are too long an need to be shortened. Or you may need to route the rear brake hose through a frame, which usually involved cutting the tip of the hose. This video will show you how to do this.
After you cut the hose you'll need to bleed the brakes. Refer to this video to learn how to bleed SRAM brakes:
• How to Bleed SRAM Hydr... - Sport
Jus ordered a Gravel bike from Jenson, I specifically called in for motor style brakes and builder ignored that direction.
Thanks for this vid
On my second rival brake lever as somehow the master cylinder got stuck inside and can't be removed. Probably will warranty this. My second one came pre bled but with a line about two times longer than needed! Got a good deal and have lots of tools so just ordered fixtures, just wanted to thank you for making such a concise straightforward video to help with this, couldn't find a SRAM equivalent. Now for the dreaded bleed...
Much better than sram official tutorial. Thank you sir. My rigid fork has internal brake path.
you're very informative and helpful, thanks- from New Zealand
Clear and concise, thank you 😸
Crazy helpful. Thank you.
Thanks a lot. Super helpful!!!
Great video. To the point. 👍🏻
Extremely helpful! Ty
Brilliant!! 👍👍👍
thanks for the video..ive wondered how hydro brakes were done.
I’d recommend to just push the rubber cover and bolt up (or down, for mtb) the hose so you don’t have to remember to put the back on.
Thank you
sram line cutters make a perfect cut everytime.
Thanks so much for this! I'm upgrading my mtb brakes from GS Rs to Code RSCs. So this really confirmed how straightforward it all is to cut the hose to the right length and install (especially having watched your video on the Stealthamajig). I do have two questions, if you wouldn't mind answering: (1) Since I need to pull the rear brake line out of the internally routed cable ports in the frame without letting any DOT fluid get into the frame (bad for carbon fiber), I know that I need to bleed every bit of fluid out of my old rear brake. I've bled my brakes using the SRAM Bleeding Edge kit, but not to get everything out; only to replace and renew the DOT fluid. Is it as simple using the bleed kit as just opening both bleed ports (the one on the lever reservoir and the one on the caliper), connecting my two syringes and pushing from the lever side to get everything out at the caliper side? Or is there a simpler way? (2) any recommendations on how to keep any remnant DOT fluid that might be in the system from dripping out while pulling the hose through the frame? Thanks in advance if you can help. Cheers!
I would say just put the cap screw to the open end before you pull it out of the frame. My 2 cents!
Just the info i'm needing to shorten the hydraulic lines on my new SRAM Level T brakes
Very useful video. Thank you.
I need to thread my current hydraulic cable inside and through a new front fork. The length is fine so I do not need to cut it. Is it still necessary to replace the olive after I've threaded it through? The brakes are also fairly new.
No. You should be able to reuse the olive.
@Sean B, did you manage to install your new fork? I have the exact same task ahead of mee and was wondering if I needed to invest in a bleed kit before installing the new fork.
That's interesting.
Thanks for a clear and concise explanation. You mention that this process is necessary when installing new brakes with internal routing frames, which all makes sense. During the video there are several moments where dot oil can be seen dripping. Is there any trick to prevent that while pushing the cable through the frame? Everything I’ve heard is that it is caustic stuff, and having it sloshing around the inside where I can’t see the damage (well.... until every sees the catastrophic damage!) Seems suboptimal.
Typically for a new installation you would want to drain enough fluid out so it does not drip in the frame. Or you can cap it.
Hello, can we reuse the old olives?
Thanks for the video. A couple of queries: in the official SRAM video, they say cut the hose should be cut at the lever end - not the caliper end as you do here. Which one is correct? Also - how tightly should the compression nut be tightened? I know the olive needs to be "crushed" but can it be crushed too much? Many thanks
He explains why he does it at the caliper end, and also mentions the torque.
Hi - how would you prepare an out of the box HRD System for internal routing installation?
Hi Clint. Can you give us any details on the barb and olive you used to replace the existing hardware? Is it the 'stealth-a-majig' type, or the older 'avid / SRAM' type like you'd put into a juicy or elixir brake?
Not really sure I can answer your question. I have only seen one type of Olive from SRAM.
@@ClintGibbs I just used this video and Clint's Brake Bleed video to shorten the lines that came on a new bike. When I went to my LBS to get olives/barbs, they only had red olives that thread onto the new threaded Stealth-a-majig barbs, stating that is all that is available now since they are backwards compatible with all other SRAM hydro brakes.
They seem better than the original non-threaded olives, just tricky to get screwed on wearing rubber gloves slicked with DOT fluid, and they are reverse-threaded.
Anyway, Clint's videos on the subject are the best of the several I viewed, included SRAM's own.
Nice video, but would've been much more helpful if you zoomed in on the important stuff (which only filled about 10% of the screen). What exactly is the "olive"? Idk. Because I couldn't really see it.
Hi ,great video ,
1 question , I have SRAM force flat mount calipers that originally had the silver "olive" compression joint .
Can I use the newer red coloured connection type with the screw on olive ?
I'm pretty sure you can as long as you get a new hose insert. That means you're going to have to shorten your brake cable slightly because it's very hard to get a hose insert out.
@@ClintGibbs yep got everything to change ,thanks for the reply
Hi, I'm looking to build a flat bar road bike. I wonder if I can use x0 lever with red hydro rim callipers. Is the hose interchangeable? What hose should I get? Many Thanks!!!
I would have to do some research on that one so I'll let someone else chime in I do think most sram brake components are compatible.
Hi Clint, Informative video. I have shimano brakes and want to change to SRAM brakes. Can I still use the hoses? If yes, how can I flush out the mineral oil?
That's a good question and honestly I've never looked into that. Usually when you buy a set of brakes they come with hoses. If it were me I would just go with a fresh set of hoses.
@@ClintGibbs its just a pain to install internal brake hoses.
It depends on the bike really. The newer bikes that I've gotten from Transition and Niner are extremely easy to push it in one side and it just pops out the other. What bike are you using?
@@ClintGibbs i have the norco sight 2020
I don't think you'll be able to - you need to check which type of brake fluid each brake system uses. Shimano generally use mineral oil whereas SRAM use Dot 5.1 - the mineral oil will ruin the rubber seals in SRAM levers/reserviors. Go with new hoses to be on the safe side!
Hey Clint is there an automotive alternative to the dot grease you are using. Or something else I can use? All i have is my park hbg-1 bike grease... I don’t think I’ll be able to get the sram grease in time for my event in a few days and I’m putting on code rsc brakes on my bike. Thanks for any help.
That's not something I really researched. I always use exactly what the manufacturer recommends. I don't want to run into any warranty issues in the future.
Manufacturers are very specific with what fluid to use because brake fluid heats up to really high temperatures. I would have gone to a bike shop if you needed it done ASAP.
Gerardo Hurtado I did it according to srams instructions and Clints advice and my brakes are amazing 👍🏻.
I'm trying to replace a hose on MTB SRAM Code R's, the fitting on the caliper end is what I'm struggling with, is this re-usable? Do you know or have any videos on how to remove and attach to another hose? The kit I purchased has the lever end fittings but nothing for the calliper end.
you have to install an insert and olive. The new hose should have come with that.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks for the reply, turns out the banjo and crimped fitting needs to be on the hose already when you buy it, seems to be semi-impossible to get in the UK. All of the fittings are in the pack I ordered but nothing on either end of the hose!
Hi Clint! The cut spares are the same for all Sram brakes?
Sorry, not sure what you mean by cut spares?
@@ClintGibbs wow my bad bad english sorry ... i mean if this thing is the same for all S ram brakes
@@abelramos8652 Some of the older road brakes had the banjo bolt at the lever, so those would be different. The newer mountain bike brakes have the bleed port (they call it bleeding edge technology) which is really useful. I made a separate video on that.
@@ClintGibbs i want to do it on newer code rsc ... i guess it fits. More vídeos? Are still something you dont have repair for us? Cant belive you! 😀👍
Are there any videos for the rear brake hose which is substantially different to the front hose?
The process is exactly the same.
how about replacing the hose on internal routing frames ? how can we upgrade that as SRAM brake kit comes allready installed hose and caliper.
You just have to remove the hose from the lever and most likely cut off the tip of it because there will be the olive pressed into the hose that won't fit into a lot of frames.
@@ClintGibbs thanks. Sorry to take your time, there is any way to connect two hoses so i can use the old one as a cable guide ? I can remove from the rear caliper and connect the new hose.
@@rlage3 I've done it before with duct tape. Sometimes it works sometimes not. Or electrical tape.
@@ClintGibbs :) i guessed that. thanks a lot.
can u re-use the olive and pin?
Not the olive. After you tighten the hose inside the brake lever, the olive presses into the hose to make a seal. You can pull the hose out and put it back in but if you ever have to cut the hose, you have to use a new olive. The pin you could unthread and to use in another hose.
Hi, all the sram literature states to make the cuts at the lever and not the caliper. Can't believe they haven't updated.
Warning! If you have sram level tl DO NOT cut at the caliper. I was following this video and it cost me £25 for a new hose. Cut at the lever end! Lesson learnt! 🙄
? Can you explain why?
@@piotrwojcik1756 yes, the caliper end has a factory fitted end which you will never get off.
Is it only sram ? Tiagra will be different ?
@@piotrwojcik1756 I'm not sure about others but definitely sram.
Thanks for this video. The new olive in the current sram bleed kit is a little bit different. Here is a video showing how to install czcams.com/video/dB5fTLKOmNQ/video.html
Yep. I made a video a while ago on it as well:
czcams.com/video/Nrjei0Ia7pk/video.html