The things you dont think about when purchasing a metal building. Some of the issues I ran into. Hopefully it helps you prepare #fixitrandy #metalbuildings #garage #mancave
For those looking this up to get some insight........I pour these pads on a weekly basis, and something I recommend to all my customers wanting bids on a pad for this kind of project is to pour that pad with what many call a "rat ledge". I'll explain what that is, picture the outside edge of your concrete pad, by screwing a 2x2 at the TOP of the concrete form it will create an "L" shape allowing yourself or your builder to place the metal frame on the lower part of the "L" shape. I would still silicone around it but that stops any water and melting snow from creeping under the normally flat edged pad.
Yea but you would still to adding an anchor on the outside part of the weak concrete. Wouldn't it be better building the pad bigger like they want but create the 2x2 or even a 2x4 L and attach the frame at the top of the concrete but run the metal lower than the frame to prevent water from seaping in?
From what I've seen, the best option is pour the pad the exact size of the building frame. Then run the siding down past the edge of the slab. The bottom edge of the siding has the option of a rat guard which seals the siding to the edge of the concrete
Ah, life. It is NEVER as we hope and plan for it. I'm so sorry that you had to go through all of this. That really sucks! I'm glad to see though you've persevered. The shop looks great! So many in this world are so crooked and deceptive all for the love of King Money. It would be so nice to live in a world that when you buy something, it's turns out as you had hoped and planned for. Thank you for sharing this info with us and for the warnings! Blessings to you and yours!
Thanks for the video. Regardless of building it all yourself, or having a general contractor do it for you, it is helpful to understand the issues that a General Contractor will not tell you (if you go that route), or the issues that you have never even thought of! I am getting ready to pull the trigger on my own garage build, and one of the lessons I have found is that upfront costs are often cheaper than retrofit costs. For example, it may be more expensive to build with osb sheathing (so you can add bat insulation), but it is a LOT cheaper in the long run than getting a thin sheet of metal siding and spray foaming the structure later. You have the same goal in mind, and want to end up in the same place, so plan for it in the beginning.
I had a metal building put up and every time it rains hard I get water coming in under the roof ridge and I also spray foamed every corner to help keep rats and snakes from getting inside, for the most part. That insulation on the ceiling isn't doing much with the large gaps between insulation and the structure. Oh yes, and even worse that the huge doors aren't insulated. I'm about to make my metal building into a man cave and will be building an interior wall that will separate the rollup door from the insulated room. I'm also going to have to put a covered porch over my door because rain comes right in underneath it. Makes zero sense to put the door inside the framing like they do, so the rain runs down the door and into the building.
When you do these metal building you always make the edges a 1 1/2" lower than the center slab so water don't run into your building. Usually ppl just put 2x2 down around edge to create that low lip for metal base to sit around into..
Have you thought about investing in some used scaffolding, with some casters that works pretty good. And that is easy to store it can sit outside and won't get hurt. Sometimes you can pick some sections up pretty cheap and you can put it together your self. You just have to step down and move it every time. If you cut the bottom section in half you can convert it into a work table.
I just put a smaller one up. My major problem is roof leaks. The roof panels are installed as intended. Nothing half-assed. It leaks anyway. The amount of silicone I have in the seams and coveing all the screws now is ridiculous, yet it still has 4 or 5 leaks. Overall, if I had to do it again - I wouldn't. The quality of a wood frame structure with an asphault shingled roof is the way to go.
Looks great brother! Would amp on a building like in my backyard. I did 15x12 metal shed for a surfboard shaping room. Similar obstacles but on a much smaller scale. Ran a sub panel for a couple circuits and and a/c split unit, Eps insulation and lots of spray foam. Its kinda rough trying do that and work full time and everything else but when its finished that all gets forgotten and you can bask in your glory.
@@danielbonner8309 I’m planning to install a pre constructed metal garage (attachedl one) 16*30 ft . Contractor gave a quote for 25 grand and transportation extra. I dropped my plan.
Strap your ladder down to the truck should be perfectly safe to reach higher with normal homeowner ladders. Your work to seal the building will also help with keeping critters out, especially the back wall where you have stuff with tarps over it.
Yes i have done this a couple of times and it works pretty good unless its too high up or somewhere that i cant get my truck close enough to it. Without straps but probably should have added that 😆
thanks for this video. I plan to build something similar very soon. Do you plan to cover the insulation (dry wall, wood, etc.)? I'd like to have space to hang shelves or anything on the walls on mine. Also, what was the approximate total cost of everything(both concrete slabs, building, electrical, water runoff everything)?
I need to insulate my metal shop. I think it sweats from condensation on the roof. It doesn't leak when it rains, only when snow is on top of the roof.
Im pondering a 30x35 metal building for my shop. planning on 2" of closed cell spray foam on the walls and 4" on the celling. Spray foam cost is about 10k.. building cost is about 17k. Thanks for the tip about waterproofing the corners and around windows and doors. I'm concerned about water penetration under the square tube. Did you use a urethane (oil based) caulk on yours? I cant believe they haven't come up with some sort of rubber membrane you can put down under the square tube. I know you can stair case your concrete down (square tube would sit slightly below your finished interior concrete floor which will help keep water from entering your building. I may go this route.
I used a flexible high quality exterior silicone and closed cell foam from loctite so it wouldnt soak in any water. I absolutely agree there are other ways and things you can do to be more water tight. They requested on the plans that the pad be 5.5" larger than the building, so we just followed their plans. I would suggest talking to your builder and tell them you want to anything possible to be water tight. I think there are things you can do but from reading and seeing that so many other people have issues that this is kind of the nature of the beast and something you have to deal with since the cost is cheaper. Had i not needed the height i probably would have went with a wood frame garage- good luck on your build!
Dean, if you do happen to get a building, they come in and put it up in a day or two. What I did was once the skeleton of the building went up I ran a thick bead of clear polyurethane door and window sealant around the perimeter before they skinned it. If you know where your garage doors are going to be placed make sure to pay extra for the concrete to be sloped away from the door. I did place my building on existing concrete so one of the doors is flat and I had to buy a garage door threshold to minimize water from coming in that door. Also go with a vertical roof so water/snow sheds to the sides. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with the building. I’m well pleased with my 30x35!
I supplied the silicone caulk and a couple of caulking guns to the framing crew. For a couple hundred bucks, they laid down a thick bead of caulk under the metal bottom plate as they put the frame together. It is a cheap way to keep water and critters from coming in under the framing.
I would absolutely shed water from that bottom plate, either by notching the concrete or just some flashing. Many people make the footprint of the concrete the same size of the outside frame and start the first panel an inch below the top of the concrete. Then there is no chance of water entering under the bottom plate and no silicone to rely upon... I think he made a mistake with his concrete being a few inches wider than the buildings footprint. But, it could be fixed with flashing under the lowest panel and over the edge of the concrete, on 3 sides anyway...
I did a 24x36 and they wanted $10,000 for the concrete work and it was $875.00 for the engineer's plans to be able to get permits. So since I wasn't going with a lift or anything like that it is just so I can park my tractor equipment trailer and truck out of the weather and since I had a black top era that was 23.5 by 27 I just had a black topper come in and put a 1ft area around the pad I had and placed the building on top of it. So far so good
Looking good! I just put up a 28x30 metal building. In the process of doing the same 1.5” foam insulation. Hopefully it works well. I’m looking to do a sealer of some sort on the concrete, yours looks good, what did you use if you don’t mind me asking?
The foam insulatio. Does surprisingly well. I need to fill in all my gaps still- and i used a concrete "cure and seal". The guys that did the finish put down 2 coats when they were done that day and then i came back and put 2 coats down after the fact. They told me it would help with oils ect. Used a pump sprayer and just heavily wet it for the first coat. The second coat i came back and used a paint roller on a stick. It helped give it a bit of texture so its not as slick. Suggested by one of the concrete guys. It worked. Gives a bit of grip when it gets wet. Before i did that it was like a skating rink walking with wet shoes
Thanks for the compliment! The manufacturer is northedge steel. Total cost for me is a tough one to answer for anyones application. I was able to borrow equipment and do alot of the work ourselves to prep for the building. I would say if you do it yourself a building of this size is realistically 40k. October of '21 when i signed off on the building it was about 17k. Excavation, electric, concrete ect. Are really expensive right now. So i did as much as i possibly could myself
I can think of several questions. Not sure who you got the building from, but it seems like they were not interested in making money. They were in for the quick sell. No up selling? I'm VERY surprised they didn't ask about insulation! I never saw a building with horizontal siding like that or on the roof! Why would anyone put the roofing perpendicular to the way rain would normally run? Maybe on a flat roof I would run it that way or on a arched or rounded roof. But even on a flat roof, I would slope the roof to the rear and not the front! As far as insulating, I have watched several videos and I can't remember who, but they suggested putting some type of house wrap beside the roofing and siding, so if anything had to be replaced, it wouldn't be so hard to replace. Also by having wainscotting, if you were to damage the lower part, which is most likely, you only need to replace a short section. I think closed cell spray foam is the way to go. It will also make your building a lot stronger, as well as being airtight. I have seen a lot of builders use a "Z" strip on the bottom first, then put siding on. Depending on how close your walls are to the edge of the concrete, should be good. You can always put down a couple lines of caulking or a rubber/foam weather stripping first before putting down the bottom tubing. Other than everything being horizontal, building looks good. I am planning on going with AMERCIAN OUTBACK BUILDINGS. The seem to have best building material. I'm hoping to start next year on mine.
My intent wasn't to bash the company, just things I learned along the way to help the next guy thinking of building one of these. I purchased the building through a dealer of these buildings. The insulation they offered the salesperson told me wasn't very good and suggested I go another route. Spray foam is great but in the midwest I hear alot of bad things about it holding moisture because of our extreme humidity and causing the building to rust out prematurely. So i'm trying this route and seeing it does. Also it was 10% of the price of spray foam. I don't mind putting a jacket on to work in the winter- Good luck on your build!
Even with a wood/stick built garage you still have to pay to insulate and power up the building. If you plan to work in that garage you may want to consider a 36000 btu mini split.
It sounds as if this project became quite a challenge and life lesson for you. Personally, I think you have been quit resourceful and have met each obstacle with a good solution. You didn’t give up and I think you have done well. It’s nice to see a young person with so many practical skills. That’s not common these days. Your family should be very proud. Thanks for all the painfully real pointers regarding metal buildings. I’m sure it will help everyone who may be contemplating one.
@@fix-itrandy3724 i want to install something a bit smaller than a 30X40 as a gym with toilet, sink, electric, and air what would something like that cost. Also yours looks great, what to do about rust? coating?
How do you like that insulation so far? Also, did you do a moisture barrier between the insulation and wall? I’m looking into a 24’x30’ metal building and I can’t decide how I want to insulate it. Thanks
I went w and recommend Carolina carports, they have free installation and delivery. Better than versa tube, roof frame is one solid piece, not 3 pcs screwed together. You design it online, shows the price and you have a local guy pour a pad then send a picture of your concrete pad or level stone area and they put you on the schedule. Takes 1 month for concrete to harden fully and it was installed a few days after, took 3 guys a day and a half. My pad was 12" bigger all around the building to make mowing easy. Get the bigger windows so they open. I skipped their cheap roll up and had a local company put in a real door. Give them a roll of 2.5 " of pink foam for under the metal tube, or be there to do it, dab silone on it to stick. I had them add woven insulation, its 1/2 thick and white on the inside, heard the double bubble could deteriorate by heat, making a mess.
Who did your building? I recently built one too.. and during my research.. every one of the 5 or 6 places I called said to do a vertical roof and not a horizontal roof. I'm surprised they didn't go over that with you. I did a few things different from you.. but I'm not quite done yet. I was debating on insulation board.. but I think I'm just gonna go without insulation this winter since I'm only parking cars in it.. and spray foam insulate it next year. I also decided to do residential garage doors instead of the roll up doors.
I built a 24x36 garage for my hot rods. Stick built with insulation and osb interior. Fantastic in winter and summer. No leaks , no drafts, and no other problems. Any person I know that has a metal building regrets it sooner or later. Leaks, condensation, and other problems keeping the building hot or cold depending on season. Metal sucks period! On a positive note; Nice Mustang.
Randy, I’m in the Cincinnati area also, and am in the planning stages of a 30 x 40. Who did you get the building from, and do you have any contractors that you would recommend?
I went a local dealer on the west side of cincy, the manufacturer of the building is "northedge steel". They have a website you can visit and build it online
I am in Louisville, KY. Back in 2017 I put up a 30'x40' steel building. I bought it from Olympia Steel Buildings. It is built much better that what you will get from companies like Versa Tube. My brothers and I put the building up ourselves. We had to rent some equipment to get the main framing up but after that it was all ladders and some scaffolding. Good Luck.
The insulation is 1.5" thick foam board with the reflective covering, and I'm still looking into a good motor setup. So far there are decently priced units that come with a "key fob" for operating that I am looking into. When I make my decision I may post a video about the install
Just a quick comment about the electric roll up door motors.. I also purchased and installed those with with key fob that you have mentioned. They have really been nice. I paid around 160 a piece and have 10x8 roll ups. They did take some fabrication to get them to work with the style roll ups that came with they building but all and all pretty easy modifications. It’s been 2 years and still work like they day they was installed even through our winters. Well worth the investment and my wife loves them. Best of luck.
They are fixture/fan ceiling hangers with brackets attached to them from the manufacturer. I found them at lowes. They are held on to the rafter beams with self tapping screws
Its held up well. I have a few gaps on the roof to fill in still but honestly if its above 40-45 the 7500 watt heater keeps it pretty nice in there. Any lower i pull out a 75k btu torpedo heater and it keeps it nice in there
I will NEVER purchase one of these metal buildings ever again! Thankfully, I know how to fix all of those things myself, but between concrete/dozer work, engineering, and a year of bullshit from the company I bought the building from, it would have been cheaper to build a pole barn!
Worked out really nice. Its not insulated like a house but if i take my digital thermometer and take readings of the insulation and the bare steel its a good 20-30 difference in temp. Good enough for what I need
@@leechburglights yeah but this deals with costs and the average person building these are people that work on things, you’re not getting a lift to add a few gutters, probably aren’t going to hire someone. Pretty basic stuff with a ladder.
Honestly. I had the lift for the insulation to get it done faster so i used it since i had it. Also the peak of the building is 16 ft. And most people arent going to have a ladder that reaches that height. You cant tell but the grading of the driveway is pretty steep as well so the best and safest tool for the job was the lift. Every instance will be different depending on the project and variables that they bring. For me personally a 400 dollar week rental to do insulation and gutters was worth it.
Oh my God you’re the only one that has noticed this besides me. They put the steel on the wrong way on the roof and the walls and nobody else sees this. There are no eaves on this building. is this on a different planet? Great Building good job for reals.😂
@@rc6614 Nothing wrong with it being placed horizontally. That is how I want mine to run. However I've recently learned that vertical siding provides stronger support during wind storms, and also they are easier to clean. The horizontal siding is easier to install and matches better to a home with horizontal (vinyl) siding. But, due to it's nature, it will more easily capture and hold dirt. Washing it will be more work since each sheet of steel creates a number of ledges for dirt to sit on.
Suggestion…. Instead of doing shit cause you want it done, wait, save money, and do it right the first time instead of doing it twice. The electric looks like shit, def illegal and dangerous. Insulation will not do a thing with all the draft you will have without spray foaming every cavity in between studs.
The Slab was made to the size requested from the builder. Quite a bit of planning actually. A lot of work as well. I didnt know that the roof was even an option to be built this way. It wasn't brought up when I sat down with the contractor. I talked about exactly that in the video. That was actually one of MAIN reasons I made the video. As a warning to others about these buildings. But hey, glad you know better 👍
This is the most crazy thing I’ve ever seen. All your steel is going horizontal even on the roof. Wow and you paid somebody to do this. why has nobody else pointed this out in the other comments. Also, there are no eaves on your building. you said that the guy told you it was an option for them to put the steel on correctly on the roof. seriously. I guess take them to court. totally insane. You must’ve done this yourself. No builder in the world would put the steel horizontal. Take the video down, so nobody copies that.
I wouldn't go horizontal on any metal building either but you have to realize this is the standard. If going vertical there needs to be extra metal since the sheet metal isn't any longer providing that strength.
the steel siding is going the wrong way, I have never seen it laying down before. Had you put strapping on the exterior framing your steel would have hung over the edge of your floors, and the steel screws should be in the ribs not on the flat steel.
I had built a 30'x40' loft barn with a 8' porch on two sides. Total footprint was 38x48. Steel barn with shingle roof. It cost $25,000 back in 2001. I'd hate to think what it would cost now! Probably couldn't afford it. It always costs more than you estimate.
A freind of mine just got a quote for a similiar setup building you described and it was basically your cost multiplied by 3. Just building. No electric, nothing.
For those looking this up to get some insight........I pour these pads on a weekly basis, and something I recommend to all my customers wanting bids on a pad for this kind of project is to pour that pad with what many call a "rat ledge". I'll explain what that is, picture the outside edge of your concrete pad, by screwing a 2x2 at the TOP of the concrete form it will create an "L" shape allowing yourself or your builder to place the metal frame on the lower part of the "L" shape. I would still silicone around it but that stops any water and melting snow from creeping under the normally flat edged pad.
Yea but you would still to adding an anchor on the outside part of the weak concrete. Wouldn't it be better building the pad bigger like they want but create the 2x2 or even a 2x4 L and attach the frame at the top of the concrete but run the metal lower than the frame to prevent water from seaping in?
@@keithwiebe1787 Why is the outer part weaker? It's going to be at minimum 4 inches thick around the outside.
From what I've seen, the best option is pour the pad the exact size of the building frame. Then run the siding down past the edge of the slab. The bottom edge of the siding has the option of a rat guard which seals the siding to the edge of the concrete
This is the way 🙌🏽.
We use 2x4 to make the “rat ledge”.
@dfnc03 just had a shop built and that's what the contractor did for me.
“How are you going to change a light bulb?” Getting ready to build my 38x40x11 and never gave that a single thought. Thank you!
Ah, life. It is NEVER as we hope and plan for it. I'm so sorry that you had to go through all of this. That really sucks! I'm glad to see though you've persevered. The shop looks great! So many in this world are so crooked and deceptive all for the love of King Money. It would be so nice to live in a world that when you buy something, it's turns out as you had hoped and planned for. Thank you for sharing this info with us and for the warnings! Blessings to you and yours!
Thank you for posting this. Lot of things I had never even thought of.
Thank you for sobering us up! Great job!
Thanks for the video. Regardless of building it all yourself, or having a general contractor do it for you, it is helpful to understand the issues that a General Contractor will not tell you (if you go that route), or the issues that you have never even thought of! I am getting ready to pull the trigger on my own garage build, and one of the lessons I have found is that upfront costs are often cheaper than retrofit costs. For example, it may be more expensive to build with osb sheathing (so you can add bat insulation), but it is a LOT cheaper in the long run than getting a thin sheet of metal siding and spray foaming the structure later. You have the same goal in mind, and want to end up in the same place, so plan for it in the beginning.
Thank you for the information on the process for installing a metal building.
I had a metal building put up and every time it rains hard I get water coming in under the roof ridge and I also spray foamed every corner to help keep rats and snakes from getting inside, for the most part. That insulation on the ceiling isn't doing much with the large gaps between insulation and the structure. Oh yes, and even worse that the huge doors aren't insulated. I'm about to make my metal building into a man cave and will be building an interior wall that will separate the rollup door from the insulated room. I'm also going to have to put a covered porch over my door because rain comes right in underneath it. Makes zero sense to put the door inside the framing like they do, so the rain runs down the door and into the building.
Good info, I want a metal building in Hamilton county Texas and you are right about that concrete being $$$. Nice building enjoy.
That insulation looks great.Brightens the place up nice.I would leave it like that.
It's awesome great job!
The building itself is gorgeous
The stick pins work great we use them to hold insulation on duct work in hvac 👍smart move
I just bought brush seals for my roll up doors, my pad just got poured on Monday, thanks for the information
great video.. thanks
Nice looking building I like the two tone colors
Getting ready to build one too and one thing I learned is always do the vertical roof and siding ribs. Much better at shedding water
Thank you for sharing
Maybe try a 1 or 2 foot extension tube on those ceiling fans to help bring them down lower for easier access.
When you do these metal building you always make the edges a 1 1/2" lower than the center slab so water don't run into your building. Usually ppl just put 2x2 down around edge to create that low lip for metal base to sit around into..
I honestly think your roof was done incorrectly. Thanks for sharing by the way, this was by far one of the best videos on metal buildings out there.
Have you thought about investing in some used scaffolding, with some casters that works pretty good. And that is easy to store it can sit outside and won't get hurt. Sometimes you can pick some sections up pretty cheap and you can put it together your self. You just have to step down and move it every time. If you cut the bottom section in half you can convert it into a work table.
I just put a smaller one up. My major problem is roof leaks. The roof panels are installed as intended. Nothing half-assed. It leaks anyway. The amount of silicone I have in the seams and coveing all the screws now is ridiculous, yet it still has 4 or 5 leaks.
Overall, if I had to do it again - I wouldn't. The quality of a wood frame structure with an asphault shingled roof is the way to go.
Great video. I am also in Hamilton county and plan to add a similar building next year. Who did you use for the grading and concrete work?
They make a foam outside closure for that panel
I would put a Mini-split in the garage to heat and cool it since you have it isolated so well. They use very little energy and make almost no noise.
Use staging for ceiling and lights.keep 8n corner till needed
Looks great brother! Would amp on a building like in my backyard. I did 15x12 metal shed for a surfboard shaping room. Similar obstacles but on a much smaller scale. Ran a sub panel for a couple circuits and and a/c split unit, Eps insulation and lots of spray foam. Its kinda rough trying do that and work full time and everything else but when its finished that all gets forgotten and you can bask in your glory.
How much you spend in total??
@@ravireddyism Not that much. Less than 10 grand but I did all the work
I also didn't buy the a.c. split units.
@@danielbonner8309 I’m planning to install a pre constructed metal garage (attachedl one) 16*30 ft . Contractor gave a quote for 25 grand and transportation extra. I dropped my plan.
@@ravireddyism ya that's a lot of money but it is a lot of work and that almost 3 times the size of mine.
Strap your ladder down to the truck should be perfectly safe to reach higher with normal homeowner ladders. Your work to seal the building will also help with keeping critters out, especially the back wall where you have stuff with tarps over it.
Yes i have done this a couple of times and it works pretty good unless its too high up or somewhere that i cant get my truck close enough to it. Without straps but probably should have added that 😆
thanks for this video. I plan to build something similar very soon. Do you plan to cover the insulation (dry wall, wood, etc.)? I'd like to have space to hang shelves or anything on the walls on mine. Also, what was the approximate total cost of everything(both concrete slabs, building, electrical, water runoff everything)?
I need to insulate my metal shop. I think it sweats from condensation on the roof. It doesn't leak when it rains, only when snow is on top of the roof.
Im pondering a 30x35 metal building for my shop. planning on 2" of closed cell spray foam on the walls and 4" on the celling. Spray foam cost is about 10k.. building cost is about 17k. Thanks for the tip about waterproofing the corners and around windows and doors. I'm concerned about water penetration under the square tube. Did you use a urethane (oil based) caulk on yours? I cant believe they haven't come up with some sort of rubber membrane you can put down under the square tube. I know you can stair case your concrete down (square tube would sit slightly below your finished interior concrete floor which will help keep water from entering your building. I may go this route.
I used a flexible high quality exterior silicone and closed cell foam from loctite so it wouldnt soak in any water. I absolutely agree there are other ways and things you can do to be more water tight. They requested on the plans that the pad be 5.5" larger than the building, so we just followed their plans. I would suggest talking to your builder and tell them you want to anything possible to be water tight. I think there are things you can do but from reading and seeing that so many other people have issues that this is kind of the nature of the beast and something you have to deal with since the cost is cheaper. Had i not needed the height i probably would have went with a wood frame garage- good luck on your build!
Dean, if you do happen to get a building, they come in and put it up in a day or two. What I did was once the skeleton of the building went up I ran a thick bead of clear polyurethane door and window sealant around the perimeter before they skinned it. If you know where your garage doors are going to be placed make sure to pay extra for the concrete to be sloped away from the door. I did place my building on existing concrete so one of the doors is flat and I had to buy a garage door threshold to minimize water from coming in that door. Also go with a vertical roof so water/snow sheds to the sides. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with the building. I’m well pleased with my 30x35!
I supplied the silicone caulk and a couple of caulking guns to the framing crew. For a couple hundred bucks, they laid down a thick bead of caulk under the metal bottom plate as they put the frame together. It is a cheap way to keep water and critters from coming in under the framing.
I would absolutely shed water from that bottom plate, either by notching the concrete or just some flashing. Many people make the footprint of the concrete the same size of the outside frame and start the first panel an inch below the top of the concrete. Then there is no chance of water entering under the bottom plate and no silicone to rely upon... I think he made a mistake with his concrete being a few inches wider than the buildings footprint. But, it could be fixed with flashing under the lowest panel and over the edge of the concrete, on 3 sides anyway...
I did a 24x36 and they wanted $10,000 for the concrete work and it was $875.00 for the engineer's plans to be able to get permits. So since I wasn't going with a lift or anything like that it is just so I can park my tractor equipment trailer and truck out of the weather and since I had a black top era that was 23.5 by 27 I just had a black topper come in and put a 1ft area around the pad I had and placed the building on top of it. So far so good
I was going to do this myself. How is it working out for you?
@@kevinlands No issues at all.
Looks like a good low cost lighting solution!
UFO lights are better
@@stevewilcox1755 as someone who has just installed UFO lights, I'm not sure they qualify as low cost.
Looking good! I just put up a 28x30 metal building. In the process of doing the same 1.5” foam insulation. Hopefully it works well. I’m looking to do a sealer of some sort on the concrete, yours looks good, what did you use if you don’t mind me asking?
The foam insulatio. Does surprisingly well. I need to fill in all my gaps still- and i used a concrete "cure and seal". The guys that did the finish put down 2 coats when they were done that day and then i came back and put 2 coats down after the fact. They told me it would help with oils ect. Used a pump sprayer and just heavily wet it for the first coat. The second coat i came back and used a paint roller on a stick. It helped give it a bit of texture so its not as slick. Suggested by one of the concrete guys. It worked. Gives a bit of grip when it gets wet. Before i did that it was like a skating rink walking with wet shoes
Beautiful place you got there, it looks like you're going to enjoy that.
Can you share your total cost and the manufacturer of the building?
Thanks for the compliment! The manufacturer is northedge steel. Total cost for me is a tough one to answer for anyones application. I was able to borrow equipment and do alot of the work ourselves to prep for the building. I would say if you do it yourself a building of this size is realistically 40k. October of '21 when i signed off on the building it was about 17k. Excavation, electric, concrete ect. Are really expensive right now. So i did as much as i possibly could myself
I can think of several questions. Not sure who you got the building from, but it seems like they were not interested in making money. They were in for the quick sell. No up selling? I'm VERY surprised they didn't ask about insulation! I never saw a building with horizontal siding like that or on the roof! Why would anyone put the roofing perpendicular to the way rain would normally run? Maybe on a flat roof I would run it that way or on a arched or rounded roof. But even on a flat roof, I would slope the roof to the rear and not the front! As far as insulating, I have watched several videos and I can't remember who, but they suggested putting some type of house wrap beside the roofing and siding, so if anything had to be replaced, it wouldn't be so hard to replace. Also by having wainscotting, if you were to damage the lower part, which is most likely, you only need to replace a short section. I think closed cell spray foam is the way to go. It will also make your building a lot stronger, as well as being airtight. I have seen a lot of builders use a "Z" strip on the bottom first, then put siding on. Depending on how close your walls are to the edge of the concrete, should be good. You can always put down a couple lines of caulking or a rubber/foam weather stripping first before putting down the bottom tubing. Other than everything being horizontal, building looks good. I am planning on going with AMERCIAN OUTBACK BUILDINGS. The seem to have best building material. I'm hoping to start next year on mine.
My intent wasn't to bash the company, just things I learned along the way to help the next guy thinking of building one of these. I purchased the building through a dealer of these buildings. The insulation they offered the salesperson told me wasn't very good and suggested I go another route. Spray foam is great but in the midwest I hear alot of bad things about it holding moisture because of our extreme humidity and causing the building to rust out prematurely. So i'm trying this route and seeing it does. Also it was 10% of the price of spray foam. I don't mind putting a jacket on to work in the winter- Good luck on your build!
Nice shop
closed cell would add huge in the strength and air infiltration.
Even with a wood/stick built garage you still have to pay to insulate and power up the building. If you plan to work in that garage you may want to consider a 36000 btu mini split.
It sounds as if this project became quite a challenge and life lesson for you. Personally, I think you have been quit resourceful and have met each obstacle with a good solution. You didn’t give up and I think you have done well. It’s nice to see a young person with so many practical skills. That’s not common these days. Your family should be very proud. Thanks for all the painfully real pointers regarding metal buildings. I’m sure it will help everyone who may be contemplating one.
Thank you very much for the kind words! Yes it has been a challenge but im very happy and proud of it- and glad to be able to finally use it
@@fix-itrandy3724 i want to install something a bit smaller than a 30X40 as a gym with toilet, sink, electric, and air what would something like that cost. Also yours looks great, what to do about rust? coating?
How do you like that insulation so far? Also, did you do a moisture barrier between the insulation and wall? I’m looking into a 24’x30’ metal building and I can’t decide how I want to insulate it. Thanks
Bluetex insulation out of Ft.Worth,Texas area hope that helps.
Thanks for sharing! How did you choose the metal building company/manufacturer? Which company? Would you recommend them to others? Thanks!
I went w and recommend Carolina carports, they have free installation and delivery. Better than versa tube, roof frame is one solid piece, not 3 pcs screwed together. You design it online, shows the price and you have a local guy pour a pad then send a picture of your concrete pad or level stone area and they put you on the schedule. Takes 1 month for concrete to harden fully and it was installed a few days after, took 3 guys a day and a half. My pad was 12" bigger all around the building to make mowing easy. Get the bigger windows so they open. I skipped their cheap roll up and had a local company put in a real door. Give them a roll of 2.5 " of pink foam for under the metal tube, or be there to do it, dab silone on it to stick. I had them add woven insulation, its 1/2 thick and white on the inside, heard the double bubble could deteriorate by heat, making a mess.
We are having a shop built thing Spring and I believe we settled on a 30x40. How much was it to get electricity to your shop?
Who did your building? I recently built one too.. and during my research.. every one of the 5 or 6 places I called said to do a vertical roof and not a horizontal roof. I'm surprised they didn't go over that with you. I did a few things different from you.. but I'm not quite done yet. I was debating on insulation board.. but I think I'm just gonna go without insulation this winter since I'm only parking cars in it.. and spray foam insulate it next year. I also decided to do residential garage doors instead of the roll up doors.
Alot more maintenance on Those roll ups?
@@TzUuup I just wanted the look of a residential door. Roll up doors look more commercial.
@@randomstuffwithjoe got you
Pick up a roll of 6mm foil insulation and spray glue it to the door it will roll up and down with the door.
I will look into that- thank you!
So, the old saying goes, "If you have to ask the price-you can't afford it."
Hi Randy, did I miss the price of your building? Can you share who you purchased the building from and did they also build it?
Hey I did not catch the name of those nails/clips. I am interested in them for another project
how much was the slab, and building,,nice building,im working on similar
Dang. What do you do for aliving bud?
I built a 24x36 garage for my hot rods. Stick built with insulation and osb interior. Fantastic in winter and summer. No leaks , no drafts, and no other problems. Any person I know that has a metal building regrets it sooner or later. Leaks, condensation, and other problems keeping the building hot or cold depending on season. Metal sucks period! On a positive note; Nice Mustang.
Nice car.
The foil face is meant to be on the outside, it is a heat and cold barrier, your 1 1/2 foam is insulation probably a r5 to r8.
So, like wearing your shirt inside out, or your pants inside out?
When you climbed up your ladder I saw a lot of light coming through the top of your garage door. Anyway to seal that off?
Yes! Its on my to-do list. They makes "door brushes" which fill up the extra gap
Did you do an air gap behind the insulation board if so how did you do it?
No air gap, just glued it straight to the metal
How much roughly did it cost u to get the power to the building? Including conduit
Randy, I’m in the Cincinnati area also, and am in the planning stages of a 30 x 40. Who did you get the building from, and do you have any contractors that you would recommend?
I went a local dealer on the west side of cincy, the manufacturer of the building is "northedge steel". They have a website you can visit and build it online
I am in Louisville, KY. Back in 2017 I put up a 30'x40' steel building. I bought it from Olympia Steel Buildings. It is built much better that what you will get from companies like Versa Tube. My brothers and I put the building up ourselves. We had to rent some equipment to get the main framing up but after that it was all ladders and some scaffolding. Good Luck.
Where did you get the insulation?
What are the best motors to buy for those garage doors? Also what installation is that you have on the walls?
The insulation is 1.5" thick foam board with the reflective covering, and I'm still looking into a good motor setup. So far there are decently priced units that come with a "key fob" for operating that I am looking into. When I make my decision I may post a video about the install
Just a quick comment about the electric roll up door motors.. I also purchased and installed those with with key fob that you have mentioned. They have really been nice. I paid around 160 a piece and have 10x8 roll ups. They did take some fabrication to get them to work with the style roll ups that came with they building but all and all pretty easy modifications. It’s been 2 years and still work like they day they was installed even through our winters. Well worth the investment and my wife loves them. Best of luck.
I always recommend to spend the extra money and get 26 gauge metal instead of this 29 gauge.
Did they bolt the frame of the garage directly to the concrete or is there footings that I missed in the video?
Yes there is a large concrete footer but the frame is anchored into the concrete- very solid
where did you get those nails and washers for mounting the insulation?
Amazon
Hey I'm over in North college hill.. How much did the permit end up costing you in our area?
I got one question buddy what was the total
What did you connect the fans too. Can't really see.
They are fixture/fan ceiling hangers with brackets attached to them from the manufacturer. I found them at lowes. They are held on to the rafter beams with self tapping screws
Where is this location
After we let a few more million people across the southern border maybe the prices will stabilize in the building industry. Is it tornado rated?
What size wire did you use from house to panel?
I used aluminum #1 for the powers and neutral, and #6 for the ground. Plus two 8 ft. Ground rods at the building.
@@fix-itrandy3724 I just put one up not even a week ago. Thank you!! I’m going to use mobile home wire. Yours looks great!
Great! Enjoy yours! and thank you for the compliment!
Yes but I wanna live in half of it.
So how has the insulation held up ?We are almost in April and most of the freezing cold is gone here in Ohio 🤞🥶 I hope .
Its held up well. I have a few gaps on the roof to fill in still but honestly if its above 40-45 the 7500 watt heater keeps it pretty nice in there. Any lower i pull out a 75k btu torpedo heater and it keeps it nice in there
but the question is, would you do it again?
Yep!!!!
I will NEVER purchase one of these metal buildings ever again! Thankfully, I know how to fix all of those things myself, but between concrete/dozer work, engineering, and a year of bullshit from the company I bought the building from, it would have been cheaper to build a pole barn!
Next time buy two brand new baker scaffold stair about $179 and you have in forever
How did the insulation end up doing over winter
Worked out really nice. Its not insulated like a house but if i take my digital thermometer and take readings of the insulation and the bare steel its a good 20-30 difference in temp. Good enough for what I need
@@fix-itrandy3724 thank you do you have a link to that insulation
what are the size of the windows?
30x36... definitely glad i went bigger. Let alot of sunlight and cross breeze through
You don’t need a lift or hire someone to do a small gutter job. It’s pretty easy with a latter and/or scaffolding.
But you'd need scaffolding... or a ladder. So he chose something he felt more comfortable using. I agree with his decision.
@@leechburglights yeah but this deals with costs and the average person building these are people that work on things, you’re not getting a lift to add a few gutters, probably aren’t going to hire someone. Pretty basic stuff with a ladder.
Honestly. I had the lift for the insulation to get it done faster so i used it since i had it. Also the peak of the building is 16 ft. And most people arent going to have a ladder that reaches that height. You cant tell but the grading of the driveway is pretty steep as well so the best and safest tool for the job was the lift. Every instance will be different depending on the project and variables that they bring. For me personally a 400 dollar week rental to do insulation and gutters was worth it.
You should have done all the metal verticle
Oh my God you’re the only one that has noticed this besides me. They put the steel on the wrong way on the roof and the walls and nobody else sees this. There are no eaves on this building. is this on a different planet? Great Building good job for reals.😂
@@rc6614 Nothing wrong with it being placed horizontally. That is how I want mine to run. However I've recently learned that vertical siding provides stronger support during wind storms, and also they are easier to clean. The horizontal siding is easier to install and matches better to a home with horizontal (vinyl) siding. But, due to it's nature, it will more easily capture and hold dirt. Washing it will be more work since each sheet of steel creates a number of ledges for dirt to sit on.
@@leechburglights Maybe on the sides, but not on the roof
What in the hell did you need 12 foot side walls for anyway lol
Car lift required walls to be 12 ft. Minimum
Why didn't you buy insulated roll-ups? They are not much more.
They werent offered by the builder or I would have- going to see what winter is like and insulate if necessary
Scaffolding.
I need property first
Suggestion…. Instead of doing shit cause you want it done, wait, save money, and do it right the first time instead of doing it twice. The electric looks like shit, def illegal and dangerous. Insulation will not do a thing with all the draft you will have without spray foaming every cavity in between studs.
And not to mention all the steel is horizontal even on the roof. And no eaves seriously. WTF.😅
Get the wood piles away from your metal building or you will rust prematurely!!!
Poor planning on your part. Slab is wrong for building, you should have went with a vertical roof.
The Slab was made to the size requested from the builder. Quite a bit of planning actually. A lot of work as well. I didnt know that the roof was even an option to be built this way. It wasn't brought up when I sat down with the contractor. I talked about exactly that in the video. That was actually one of MAIN reasons I made the video. As a warning to others about these buildings. But hey, glad you know better 👍
Had we Todd did concrete contractor job-30×40,sue had to show up but never amounted to anything-them corntractors know how to fork a cat...
Better to use wood, my neighbors both did the metal shed and regret it.
This is the most crazy thing I’ve ever seen. All your steel is going horizontal even on the roof. Wow and you paid somebody to do this. why has nobody else pointed this out in the other comments. Also, there are no eaves on your building. you said that the guy told you it was an option for them to put the steel on correctly on the roof. seriously. I guess take them to court. totally insane. You must’ve done this yourself. No builder in the world would put the steel horizontal. Take the video down, so nobody copies that.
I wouldn't go horizontal on any metal building either but you have to realize this is the standard. If going vertical there needs to be extra metal since the sheet metal isn't any longer providing that strength.
It takes more steel to go vertical, so it should be more expensive to go vertical but they charge more to go horizontal. L O L.
the steel siding is going the wrong way, I have never seen it laying down before. Had you put strapping on the exterior framing your steel would have hung over the edge of your floors, and the steel screws should be in the ribs not on the flat steel.
I had built a 30'x40' loft barn with a 8' porch on two sides. Total footprint was 38x48. Steel barn with shingle roof. It cost $25,000 back in 2001. I'd hate to think what it would cost now! Probably couldn't afford it. It always costs more than you estimate.
A freind of mine just got a quote for a similiar setup building you described and it was basically your cost multiplied by 3. Just building. No electric, nothing.
Probably going to get condensation?
They make a foam outside closure for that panel