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@dannthenitroman I could stand a look at a not too beautiful weld, and I have no reason to doubt this is a good result (cause I have no clue about it). Just curious to see it... Why only show the nice welds and not the not so good ones and talk/review about it, aren't we beyond this? But hey, everyone as it likes it, and if our comments push the YT algo for the channel, even better.
I know you hated taking on that job, but trust me, that McLaren owner is in love with you about now. The replacement cost of that thing is through the roof, so even if it just lasts him awhile it was worth it. I'm not expert welder but my bet is your weld will outlast the car. And fyi. I never tig welded. I need one bad though. but I wanted to say just how impressive it is seeing you weld with such clarity and great explanation. Thank you.
Damn right man, I've got a exhaust on a 2012 ktm sxf 250 that's cracked, the issue is I'm nearly 100% sure it's inconel and unfortunately I don't have a 15amp circuit or an acdc tig or I would try it myself. The only other option other then repair is building my own header for it with stainless but I would probably go for titanium if I was going that far witch again I don't have a ac/dc tig or a bender. I could make my own stainless one but not having a bender is an issue and I may aswell get someone else to do the whole job at that point. Could cost up to $1000 or more just to get a header built on a bike that only cost me $5500
Incredibly right handling of a poor job in need of repair! 1. Call it what it is with the customer. 2. Do a proper distinction of your vs presented work (do your part well, make obvious where each others work lay) 3. Be friendly and frank, as the customer is likely to come for more Much respect for the top professionalism!
Awesome job Justin... cool to see you still showing us how you take care of business when needed! Loving this giveaway and hopefully my phone will be ringing!
How does one get started doing what you do? Owning a fab and repair shop. Iv done jobs like this in the past, but to have your own shop to do these things must be really nice, and time saving.
Are you asking how to start a business? Channel valuetainment has entrepreneurship tutorials and valuable strategies for success. But you need a location, tools, and right after you get liability insurance-customers. And pay a cpa to do your startup and books / taxes every single month. I’d start (getting customers) by finding people/businesses that need what you do - shoe leather, business cards, follow up contacts at least three times. There’s tons of videos on this. A few of them are even good ones.
I must say Michael sounded soooo excited and enthusiastic about his giveaway win... I would supremely appreciate, and certainly put to good use, any of the machines in your giveaway, and be a lot more rapped about having won it!! Would be interested to know if that downpipe was a factory McLaren part or an aftermarket..?
@@BerserkerCatSplat I thought so, I said in another comment that if it was a factory part then all the decent staff must have been diverted to the F1 effort, considering their performance since the summer break!
Excellent series, can you do a diy series and one on stainless steal exhaust pipe with mig? A how to for the diy'ers out there with bare essentials, a cheap mig and fairly essentials only setup?
The fit up is probably going to be even worst now because it wasn’t welded up in a jig it could have tweaked abit on cooling, being stainless, as you would know 😂
damn thats rather awesome.. honestly the welders and cutter would both be huge upgrades but I would have to do the table trying to make a plane on my table is not fun .. easy 1 -1 1/2" dip. I pair of minions are the only way some stuff is close to square..
Would it be possible to go over all these old welds and give them decent penetration? Or would you need to cut them all apart, clean, and re-weld from nice joins? I guess the latter would need a jig or the actual vehicle so that it actually fits.
If it is a factory part, then all the decent guys must be on the F1 fabrication effort, especially considering their performance since the summer break!
Their parts aren’t meant to survive more than a race or two; and definitely not meant to stand up to daily driving road use. They look pretty in the garage or at the track for a few years with only a few thousand miles.
@@TheFabricatorSeries , Was the customer not able to get warranty on the part? It's like a $2000-$3000USD part from a few different aftermarket places!
I had a titanium exhaust for my Evo years ago I shipped out to have repaired 2 times. I understood that the welder who fixed it was not liable. You could see the lack of penetration from the factory just like this. If you let the customer know, they will be ok with it. Where it was repaired was stronger than the factory welds. And they never failed again.
My approach to stainless exhausts is beautiful fit-up and ZERO chamfer whatsoever. If the ends are cut square and have no chamfer - a fusion weld can be performed - resulting in no undercut/concavity of the weld... If you put the extra time/effort into the fit-up to begin with, the welds themselves are fast and effortless - and you can keep the heat way down because you don't have to add filler. With practice at this - you can even get away without the backpurge.
@ARGENTIN0 Not really. The downpipe broke. The only exhaust weld I've ever performed that broke was one where I added filler. Knowing what the "textbook" says about welding is great. But in the real world, sometimes things are different. I'm not gods gift to welding, but I do have 25 years practical experience with it - and I have a pretty good (not perfect) track record of success. Must be nice to so much better than me!
Didn’t give a shot of the inside to see the penetration. But, it was obvious you wanted to just move on. Thanks for taking the time to end out that video.
Great video as always. Would've been nice to show a pic of the inside of the pipe after you welded it to show the penetration, but you did state there was full penetration and I believe you :)
I could only see the backside with a mirror. Unfortunately, the camera couldn't pick it up. I did get a tiny section of it looking through the O2 bung, but I couldn't get good focus on it.
I’m not talking about this particular job but, do you have a turntable or whatever? I’ve never seen you using one and I’m just curious because you’re dealing with tubes all day long😅
Hello, I love watching you make welds, great job, what welding machine did you use for this and do you need to set a higher shielding gas flow for such glass? I greet you warmly and wish you good health.
Couple of questions, sorry if they seem hostile they aren’t meant to be, you said if stainless goes purple or blue the material is done for but your welds went that colour, are they now weakened? You filled the crack area but wouldn’t it have been better to show a weld closer to the end so we can see the penetration and how it should look?
Aint nothing in the world wrong with gold/blue/purple iridescence in stainless welds. Pastel color and dull gray is bad. Even then, I wouldn't call it "done for". I've put way too much heat into MANY stainless welds in my day (and still do from time to time) and had them last just fine.
My understanding is that while the welding causes the high temp colour shift, it's done when there is an inert gas present, to prevent oxidation of the metal. If the stainless steel is subject to temperatures during standard operation that could cause the high temp colour shift, then it's going to be oxidising the metal, which can cause it to become brittle.
Wouldn't it be a good idea to make a quick check with at least fluorescence spray and UV light for non destructive testing of the other welds for fine cracks too?
But since you have a template I’m assuming it would be better to rebuild instead of fix or could you grind out and redo all welds to improve but in this situation almost be better to cut the pipes grind welds and get better penetration just have time and money ….
That’s not an OEM downpipe. There are supposed to be two cats in that pipe - one at each end. I don’t see any cats. It’s a poorly made aftermarket de-cat pipe. Just wanted to mention that as people will think it’s an OEM pipe from factory. It’s probably also seen a lot more heat than usual as a de-cat will need a tune, so likely a car producing nigh on 1000 WHP (stock 720 usually is around 700-720 WHP).
Can you go over or explain undercut with a comparison with a weld on the same part that is not undercut. I am unclear on what to look for on that. Thanks, really enjoy the videos.
Would it have been better to cut is apart and re-weld all of it to get good penetration? Or should you have quoted a custom fabrication and made a new one from scratch?
You talked about the color changes but now what it means to the repair? Almost every titanium motorcycle exhaust I have ever seen is blue. Does it mean damaged / compromised now unweldable? Acid takes the discoloration away so it can be hidden but decoloration means it got hot and????
Titanium and stainless steel color differently and it affects the metal differently. I believe the issue with stainless discoloration is that it means it has reached certain temperature thresholds which alter the material properties. I think it can become less ductile and therefore more prone to cracking under stress from heat cycling, also making it more difficult to weld. I'm guessing at certain heat levels the metal can also become more contaminated in a way that is much harder to clean. Additionally, after stainless steel reaches certain temperatures it can actually lose its stainless properties and will therefore start to rust. I'm sure there is more to it, but hopefully that makes some points.
So whats the deal with that pipe? Did the owner spend over a quarter mil on a supercar and then decide an ebay exhaust was the right answer budget wise? or is that was $300,000 gets you from the OEM these days?
This looks like it was made in a sweatshop using one of those "cold welders" - the ol' no-filler, "morse code" welding technique, judging from the individual crater on every coin on the stack
@@notanymore9471Well it definitely wasn't purged, generally most crappy SS like this isn't, because as you pointed out, there's no penetration. I'm still sure it's a "cold welder" autogenous weld though. 3:06 you csn see the giveaway "starburst" appearance of each dime.
@@ma61king to me it looked like they fused over a small diameter lay wire. Oh and a “cold” welder is capacitive discharge not autogenous tig. Plenty of stainless is welded with purge autogenously every day with good results that passes code. Just because you don’t add wire doesn’t make it bad.
@@notanymore9471 What? Autogenous means they didn't use filler, and those cold welders ARE tig welders since they use tungsten and inert gas. Are you high?
@@ma61king I am high but I also obviously know more about welding than you. Probably been welding since you were playing Pokémon. Cold welders are a form of TIG but no one with a brain uses them on this type of application. They used standard TIG and a thin lay wire and fused over it with pulse that’s why it looks the way you described. Also nothing wrong with autogenous. Process piping and sanitary pipe are done with no filler all the time for critical applications.
well that is always an interesting question, as what weld are you doing, how thick is the material, what quality is the material, what type of weld is it, is the weld an open air weld (as shown in the video) or is the weld heat dissipated through a table. Also what quality is your machine, lower cost machines often have lower quality electrical supply and often run at a higher amperage than a really good quality machine. This is the joy with TIG, so many variables, and the only way to ensure a good weld is practice with what you have, on as many materials as you can get your hands on. Get to understand the basics, and then tweak it for the speed size and skillset which you have. Sometimes you can go a little lower, sit on the area a little longer to ensure you've got control, or you can go a lot faster a lot hotter if you're truly competent with what you're doing. A good rule of thumb is set what you think, do a little weld, see if it works, if not, then adjust. Always go on the side of caution, and build up to what works for you. May take a little longer to start, but you'll be more comfortable with the weld by the time you're finished and won't completely balls it up from the beginning.
you can purge with any inert gas, but remember that under heat the metallurgy of the material will react differently with different gasses. So it all depends on what is needed as the end result. If it's just a basic weld on a non important part, then you can almost get away with any inert gas, but if it's a part which has to be engineered to meet a specific requirement, then you are usually under the guidance of the engineer with what material, amperage, setup, gasses ect which need to be used.
I am only a panel beater.... But dam that is total bullshyt fabrication for such a high end manufacturer... Like honestly I have built my own turbo headers/collecter and I had better fit up and penetration than that Mclaren part....must feel great to own a half million nzd car and have such crap workmanship on it😂😂
And that folks is the difference between McLaren and Ferrari…… McLarens engineering doesn’t come close to Ferrari engineering, just how P*ss poor this pipe from McLaren is proves it !!!
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It would have been nice to see a close-up of the resulting welds, also the insides of the pipe
Seems like it was too ugly for a show off 😅
These repairs never look weldporn so no point.
@dannthenitroman I could stand a look at a not too beautiful weld, and I have no reason to doubt this is a good result (cause I have no clue about it). Just curious to see it...
Why only show the nice welds and not the not so good ones and talk/review about it, aren't we beyond this?
But hey, everyone as it likes it, and if our comments push the YT algo for the channel, even better.
I know you hated taking on that job, but trust me, that McLaren owner is in love with you about now. The replacement cost of that thing is through the roof, so even if it just lasts him awhile it was worth it. I'm not expert welder but my bet is your weld will outlast the car. And fyi. I never tig welded. I need one bad though. but I wanted to say just how impressive it is seeing you weld with such clarity and great explanation. Thank you.
The replacement cost isn't a lot, these are simple catless downpipes, not OEM
@@neversettle7666it's a lot when compared to normal automotive parts, even comparing them to custom parts
Damn right man, I've got a exhaust on a 2012 ktm sxf 250 that's cracked, the issue is I'm nearly 100% sure it's inconel and unfortunately I don't have a 15amp circuit or an acdc tig or I would try it myself.
The only other option other then repair is building my own header for it with stainless but I would probably go for titanium if I was going that far witch again I don't have a ac/dc tig or a bender.
I could make my own stainless one but not having a bender is an issue and I may aswell get someone else to do the whole job at that point.
Could cost up to $1000 or more just to get a header built on a bike that only cost me $5500
Alibaba downpipe, mclaren owner is cheap.
Incredibly right handling of a poor job in need of repair!
1. Call it what it is with the customer.
2. Do a proper distinction of your vs presented work (do your part well, make obvious where each others work lay)
3. Be friendly and frank, as the customer is likely to come for more
Much respect for the top professionalism!
Wow! Can't believe the lack ogf QC on that exhaust! Thanks for sharing the repair.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe this was farmed out to a different country for production?
Its some aftermarket exhaust. Notice the distinct lack of a catalytic converter in there...
@@kain0m it's shitty aftermarket exhaust.
Love my prime weld 225 it’s been rocking since 2019 in my garage problem free
Thank you for the endless hours of camera time enjoy watching and learning
I just woke up. My head wasn't quite there
Not a bad call to wake up to...
@TheFabricatorSeries best wake up call I've gotten in a long time. Than you again
Awesome job Justin... cool to see you still showing us how you take care of business when needed! Loving this giveaway and hopefully my phone will be ringing!
Haha I realized at four minutes in that this is a break not a cut. 😄
The original cuts weren't properly welded, then failed right at the scene of the attempted welding-- so you are indeed seeing the cut lines from fab.
How does one get started doing what you do? Owning a fab and repair shop. Iv done jobs like this in the past, but to have your own shop to do these things must be really nice, and time saving.
Are you asking how to start a business?
Channel valuetainment has entrepreneurship tutorials and valuable strategies for success.
But you need a location, tools, and right after you get liability insurance-customers. And pay a cpa to do your startup and books / taxes every single month.
I’d start (getting customers) by finding people/businesses that need what you do - shoe leather, business cards, follow up contacts at least three times.
There’s tons of videos on this. A few of them are even good ones.
@@fishhuntadventure yep. I'm good. That's a lot of bullshit.
What did I just witness LOL…
@fishhuntadventure Hey how you get stuff? Oh, takes work…. Nah I’m good!
@@KZ-yy9pmequivalent to "Is this still for sale?"
I must say Michael sounded soooo excited and enthusiastic about his giveaway win... I would supremely appreciate, and certainly put to good use, any of the machines in your giveaway, and be a lot more rapped about having won it!!
Would be interested to know if that downpipe was a factory McLaren part or an aftermarket..?
Aftermarket catless downpipe, not a McLaren part.
@@BerserkerCatSplat I thought so, I said in another comment that if it was a factory part then all the decent staff must have been diverted to the F1 effort, considering their performance since the summer break!
@@kramer26 I'm sure there a good many fans that would put up with dodgy road car parts if it meant getting a WCC!
"i welded it helded" never forget
Excellent series, can you do a diy series and one on stainless steal exhaust pipe with mig?
A how to for the diy'ers out there with bare essentials, a cheap mig and fairly essentials only setup?
The fit up is probably going to be even worst now because it wasn’t welded up in a jig it could have tweaked abit on cooling, being stainless, as you would know 😂
thanks for the suggestion on the ck tungsten i bought them and love them they hold up so good.
Had a similar repair used an inner sleeve so when I welded I had more material to bond together ,
Ah , you didnt breakdown the costs on this ,,, shame as I like that detail a lot. Nice job though but I think it will be back again.
It was a repair job for another shop. I usually don't share prices when I am hired by another shop.
@@TheFabricatorSeries Ah , got it ,,, yep makes sense.
damn thats rather awesome.. honestly the welders and cutter would both be huge upgrades but I would have to do the table trying to make a plane on my table is not fun .. easy 1 -1 1/2" dip. I pair of minions are the only way some stuff is close to square..
Would it be possible to go over all these old welds and give them decent penetration? Or would you need to cut them all apart, clean, and re-weld from nice joins? I guess the latter would need a jig or the actual vehicle so that it actually fits.
need good cleanup
Blows my mind on a McLaren lousy prepped part to begin with.
It’s not a factory cat. It’s a Chinese de-cat
If it is a factory part, then all the decent guys must be on the F1 fabrication effort, especially considering their performance since the summer break!
Their parts aren’t meant to survive more than a race or two; and definitely not meant to stand up to daily driving road use.
They look pretty in the garage or at the track for a few years with only a few thousand miles.
Is that a Factory part? Factory Welds?
It's aftermarket.
@@TheFabricatorSeries , Was the customer not able to get warranty on the part? It's like a $2000-$3000USD part from a few different aftermarket places!
Fancy seeing you here. I was wondering the same. Crazy an aftermarket shop would put that out for a McLaren.
@@TheFabricatorSeries ahh that makes sense,
I am very surprised that the weld seam has disappeared. It is a very interesting video, and it would be great if we have chance to work together.
I had a titanium exhaust for my Evo years ago I shipped out to have repaired 2 times. I understood that the welder who fixed it was not liable. You could see the lack of penetration from the factory just like this. If you let the customer know, they will be ok with it. Where it was repaired was stronger than the factory welds. And they never failed again.
My approach to stainless exhausts is beautiful fit-up and ZERO chamfer whatsoever. If the ends are cut square and have no chamfer - a fusion weld can be performed - resulting in no undercut/concavity of the weld... If you put the extra time/effort into the fit-up to begin with, the welds themselves are fast and effortless - and you can keep the heat way down because you don't have to add filler. With practice at this - you can even get away without the backpurge.
Omg 🤦♂️
@ARGENTIN0 Not really. The downpipe broke. The only exhaust weld I've ever performed that broke was one where I added filler.
Knowing what the "textbook" says about welding is great. But in the real world, sometimes things are different.
I'm not gods gift to welding, but I do have 25 years practical experience with it - and I have a pretty good (not perfect) track record of success.
Must be nice to so much better than me!
Didn’t give a shot of the inside to see the penetration. But, it was obvious you wanted to just move on. Thanks for taking the time to end out that video.
Great video as always. Would've been nice to show a pic of the inside of the pipe after you welded it to show the penetration, but you did state there was full penetration and I believe you :)
I could only see the backside with a mirror. Unfortunately, the camera couldn't pick it up. I did get a tiny section of it looking through the O2 bung, but I couldn't get good focus on it.
@@TheFabricatorSeries we are in need of an borescope weld inspection rig, aren't we, hmm?
I’m not talking about this particular job but, do you have a turntable or whatever? I’ve never seen you using one and I’m just curious because you’re dealing with tubes all day long😅
Hello, I love watching you make welds, great job, what welding machine did you use for this and do you need to set a higher shielding gas flow for such glass? I greet you warmly and wish you good health.
Six figure car with an Amazon pipe. Hehe.
Hey Justin, Thanks for sharing awesome repair! Just one question How much did you asked for this job ?
Couple of questions, sorry if they seem hostile they aren’t meant to be, you said if stainless goes purple or blue the material is done for but your welds went that colour, are they now weakened?
You filled the crack area but wouldn’t it have been better to show a weld closer to the end so we can see the penetration and how it should look?
Same thoughts here. I'm sure it's a solid repair, but it would have been nice to show the fix in more detail.
Aint nothing in the world wrong with gold/blue/purple iridescence in stainless welds. Pastel color and dull gray is bad. Even then, I wouldn't call it "done for". I've put way too much heat into MANY stainless welds in my day (and still do from time to time) and had them last just fine.
My understanding is that while the welding causes the high temp colour shift, it's done when there is an inert gas present, to prevent oxidation of the metal.
If the stainless steel is subject to temperatures during standard operation that could cause the high temp colour shift, then it's going to be oxidising the metal, which can cause it to become brittle.
@@n2o_sparkwe have a winner! Yep,you hit the nail right on the head.
Wouldn't it be a good idea to make a quick check with at least fluorescence spray and UV light for non destructive testing of the other welds for fine cracks too?
But since you have a template I’m assuming it would be better to rebuild instead of fix or could you grind out and redo all welds to improve but in this situation almost be better to cut the pipes grind welds and get better penetration just have time and money ….
why did you not grind, cleand and bevel the pipe before tacking up. That seems like the way they did it in production, which lead to the broken part.
OMG! Dream is spelled wrong! I can't believe I noticed that!
Really next level weld footage. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
That’s not an OEM downpipe. There are supposed to be two cats in that pipe - one at each end. I don’t see any cats. It’s a poorly made aftermarket de-cat pipe. Just wanted to mention that as people will think it’s an OEM pipe from factory.
It’s probably also seen a lot more heat than usual as a de-cat will need a tune, so likely a car producing nigh on 1000 WHP (stock 720 usually is around 700-720 WHP).
I know. Just wanted to mention that I've already mentioned it. (Because I mentioned it).
Is it acceptable to do a strong weld and then “dry-wash” to make it look more consistent?
Jesus how big is that tv? Doesnt the high frequency mess with that tv?
Can you go over or explain undercut with a comparison with a weld on the same part that is not undercut. I am unclear on what to look for on that. Thanks, really enjoy the videos.
When the toes (edges) of the bead are sitting lower than the base metal. There's basically a trench next to the bead.
Damn is mclaren quality that bad!?
This is an aftermarket part.
Would it have been better to cut is apart and re-weld all of it to get good penetration? Or should you have quoted a custom fabrication and made a new one from scratch?
What's with your wild hand gestures?
What would you charge for this job?
Where did you get that big $100 bill?
Funny that a 300,000 dollar car has 30 cent welds on it.
Is this a McLaren factory part?
Wonder where that part came from lol
What are the tables you have? They don't look like arcflats?
Where’s the car you were building?
How much does a McLaren cost?
You talked about the color changes but now what it means to the repair? Almost every titanium motorcycle exhaust I have ever seen is blue. Does it mean damaged / compromised now unweldable? Acid takes the discoloration away so it can be hidden but decoloration means it got hot and????
Titanium and stainless steel color differently and it affects the metal differently. I believe the issue with stainless discoloration is that it means it has reached certain temperature thresholds which alter the material properties. I think it can become less ductile and therefore more prone to cracking under stress from heat cycling, also making it more difficult to weld. I'm guessing at certain heat levels the metal can also become more contaminated in a way that is much harder to clean. Additionally, after stainless steel reaches certain temperatures it can actually lose its stainless properties and will therefore start to rust. I'm sure there is more to it, but hopefully that makes some points.
My reaction was RUN TF AWAY.
What filler metal did you say you used on this?
Lol awesome!!! Happy for the dude!
You should sell "full pen" shirts lol
Are you using 1/16 or 035 filler?
Not at all suspicious that you didn't show the inside of the pipe when done.
Hurt feelings at Mclaren.
Great video thank you for sharing
Tipp top 👍
Most used phrase by welders,"don't care what it looks like long as it holds."
So whats the deal with that pipe? Did the owner spend over a quarter mil on a supercar and then decide an ebay exhaust was the right answer budget wise?
or is that was $300,000 gets you from the OEM these days?
He replied to another comment that it was aftermarket. If it was cheap or just a poor job by the company, who knows.
It's crazy how much stock people put into looking pretty vs being a solid weld.
shitty welds can look good, but their beauty is only skin deep. Sells parts.
nice job..
nice welding!
This looks like it was made in a sweatshop using one of those "cold welders" - the ol' no-filler, "morse code" welding technique, judging from the individual crater on every coin on the stack
No, there was wire used it was just poor prep and unqualified welder who didn’t purge it most likely nor weld slow/hot enough to penetrate.
@@notanymore9471Well it definitely wasn't purged, generally most crappy SS like this isn't, because as you pointed out, there's no penetration.
I'm still sure it's a "cold welder" autogenous weld though. 3:06 you csn see the giveaway "starburst" appearance of each dime.
@@ma61king to me it looked like they fused over a small diameter lay wire. Oh and a “cold” welder is capacitive discharge not autogenous tig. Plenty of stainless is welded with purge autogenously every day with good results that passes code. Just because you don’t add wire doesn’t make it bad.
@@notanymore9471 What? Autogenous means they didn't use filler, and those cold welders ARE tig welders since they use tungsten and inert gas. Are you high?
@@ma61king I am high but I also obviously know more about welding than you. Probably been welding since you were playing Pokémon. Cold welders are a form of TIG but no one with a brain uses them on this type of application. They used standard TIG and a thin lay wire and fused over it with pulse that’s why it looks the way you described. Also nothing wrong with autogenous. Process piping and sanitary pipe are done with no filler all the time for critical applications.
How hot do you run your amps on 304 schedule 10 ?
well that is always an interesting question, as what weld are you doing, how thick is the material, what quality is the material, what type of weld is it, is the weld an open air weld (as shown in the video) or is the weld heat dissipated through a table.
Also what quality is your machine, lower cost machines often have lower quality electrical supply and often run at a higher amperage than a really good quality machine.
This is the joy with TIG, so many variables, and the only way to ensure a good weld is practice with what you have, on as many materials as you can get your hands on. Get to understand the basics, and then tweak it for the speed size and skillset which you have. Sometimes you can go a little lower, sit on the area a little longer to ensure you've got control, or you can go a lot faster a lot hotter if you're truly competent with what you're doing.
A good rule of thumb is set what you think, do a little weld, see if it works, if not, then adjust. Always go on the side of caution, and build up to what works for you. May take a little longer to start, but you'll be more comfortable with the weld by the time you're finished and won't completely balls it up from the beginning.
👍
Can you purge with C02?
you can purge with any inert gas, but remember that under heat the metallurgy of the material will react differently with different gasses. So it all depends on what is needed as the end result. If it's just a basic weld on a non important part, then you can almost get away with any inert gas, but if it's a part which has to be engineered to meet a specific requirement, then you are usually under the guidance of the engineer with what material, amperage, setup, gasses ect which need to be used.
Thanks for the great info.@@MassageWithKlay
on that car and the price of it they should not none purged from new alex from ards stainless northen ireland 35 years tig welding
Shots at McLaren, hahaha.
my welds look like ridges and thickness is bigger than pipe
Am I the only one who wanted to see the “bad weld”
You can run away send em my way
Them guys had no wps on this one.
Nice
That’s a Chinese pipe. What we’re you expecting
That's really disappointing build quality on a car that costs that much.
Typical McLaren, even the weld's have weight savings (as little filler material as physically possible)
LOP is bad Mmkay
I am only a panel beater.... But dam that is total bullshyt fabrication for such a high end manufacturer... Like honestly I have built my own turbo headers/collecter and I had better fit up and penetration than that Mclaren part....must feel great to own a half million nzd car and have such crap workmanship on it😂😂
Aftermarket part
Surely this isn't a factory McLaren part? If it is, the quality is absolute junk!
And that folks is the difference between McLaren and Ferrari…… McLarens engineering doesn’t come close to Ferrari engineering, just how P*ss poor this pipe from McLaren is proves it !!!
Its like it was an AliExpress purchase, given the price of the cars I would expect a professional welder to have done the job, McClaren garbage
Aftermarket part
McLaren = garbage
If you don't mind me asking, how much $ would you charge for a job like that, especially since it's for such an expencive car?