There’s 10 reasons at least to like this video! 1. You keep the same theme with your channel and build. You are learning, just like all of us, and you do the research. 2. You’re not afraid to admit mistakes, we are only human!3. You had a great take away from it and gained some great knowledge of the process. The list goes on, anyway, let me know when you get some t shirts! I’ll buy the first one! Glad to see your channel grow and look forward to seeing this engine fire up! If you want to come over to Arkansas, we can light it off together 👍🏼
Thanks buddy! I really appreciate it 😁. This one was a lot of fun to learn and put together. At some point I will definitely make it down there to see you.👍
If you want that swirl polish, it's easy , when you've finished modifying your valve , put it in the drill press and use a die grinder with the correct size flap wheel , but hold it at 45 degrees .
You can blend seat into bowl on intake side, you definitely want a smooth transition for smooth air flow. You can leave seat/bowl alone on exhaust, it'll help prevent reversion if done right.
Nice vid, don’t worry most of us porters have made mistakes ( including myself ). We do things and learn by our mistakes. Great content, I’m always looking for that extra few ponies 😉
Hi, thanks for following! Awesome, glad the content was helpful. You should totally start a project 😃. If possible, my reco would be to start a project that is running or at least assembled. Either way, Good Luck!!
This is very well done. So nice to HEAR clearly without a bunch of racket in the back ground. How many times I’ve tried to watch a video and the audio is too faint to hear clearly. I think it’s more important to remove that lip on the intake than the exhaust. You want the fuel/air mixture to flow uninterrupted for a smooth transition. On the exhaust side? I’m not so sure, because I think you need it for reverberation which prevents back flow from occurring at certain valve positions and timing events.
Hi Gusszgs, thanks for the comment and complimenting the sound quality. I really appreciate it. Definitely agree that the intake is more important than the exhaust. I don't believe the lip does anything for you on the exhaust either since performance valves tend to not have them. Thanks for watching!
As it comes off the base circle low lift and as it comes back into the base circle is where the improvement is and a good 3 angle valve job and use flat top not tulip shaped valves which have a small dish gives you a slight compression increase. The valve in a Chuck with a carbide tooling setup at the right angle would do the job perfectly and much more accurately you have to stay off the margin at all costs...to do this to an old set may not be cost effective in the long run. And hey you can learn a lot from trying this on old junk stuff and perfect your technique. Cool video!
Thanks Moparnut! I appreciate the tips. I will need to look more into the Flat top vs. Tulip, that one is new to me. You win some you lose some, I need a bit more machining practice 😂, but the knowledge was worth it. Thanks for checking it out!
Next time you want to do that, get some sort of spinning small abrasive disk. While the valve is spinning, you'll be sanding against the concentric rings. Swirl polishing will make the top of the valve smoother in the direction of airflow and it'll break the edge where it transitions to the top angle (or sealing angle in a valve that isn't back cut).
Hi KryptoKing, good taste, you are the only person to mention it. I got this one from the website: donkeytees.com Also, I have started my own shirt site focused on automotive designs. Still building the inventory, but please check it out. RevvedApparel.com Thanks for watching!
Hi, I have learned to smooth off sharp edges to avoid them getting to hot. This to prevent premature ignition. How does that go together with sharpening the intake valves?
One thing, look at the stock and race valve, they are not as polished. What is going through the intake isn't pure air, it's vaporized gasoline, even air has friction, when a fluid object goes across a Polished surface there is no turbulence to bring that said fluid in suspense. With a rougher surface the 1st particles bounce off and then the particles right after bounce off those particles creating a better flow and swirl into the chamber. The lip you shim off is exactly for that purpose in a street engine that sees a lot of low revs it doesn't matter in a race engine because the idle is always set higher anyway. Vaporized gas is always more powerful than fluid gas. The next time I'm doing a valve job I'm going to cut in a swirl pattern on the entire stamp face of the valve to add more swirl and see what happens
Hi Ian, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Yes the OEM ones are super rough. I ended up doing a swirl polish on everything. Is that the right thing for a street car, maybe not, if not I guess I will just have to keep those revs up 🤣. Thanks for watching!!
Hello lauro, sorry I am not familiar with 243 heads. In most cases a performance valve job will improve performance, but there are a lot of factors involved that effect how much it will improve. Good luck!
Yes a 3 angle will help, also do a back cut (like the trickflow valve on the video) on the intake valve only, Can blend bowl and seat area on the long side to make sure it's a smooth transition, David Vizard covers this very well. Never touch the port unless you know what you're doing, you can make port too big, and it cuts down velocity in the port, making lazy air...
Hi Hector, it is code Y1, High Impact Mopar colors, this color was discontinued in 1973. It was called Top Banana on Dodge cars and Lemon Twist on Plymouth.
@@DustorBust ok. Thats i thought, i remember when i was a kid in the 70s my uncle bought a yellow Duster and every where he went they would ask him what color was that, and he would reply, "Top Banana"..
A good thing to get better airflow is De-shrouding around the valve on the combustion chamber David Vizard has a great video on that czcams.com/video/39-JrS80_44/video.html
Thanks for watching Joe. I ended up just buying a few more stock valves for $5 a pop and reworking them. Got a bit better with my process and was able to put a nice swirl polish with a Dremel. Engine seems to be running good, but I have not gotten the car far along enough to run passes or anything yet. It will happen this summer for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it !
Every time I work on my car it’s a new experience. But to do this valve modification is very brave if you didn’t have spares. LOL. Gotta be careful if your doing a broke ass build with no extra money. Be safe.
Thanks Troy, I appreciate the feedback. It takes a lot of practice to dial in the right amount of info while being concise. Still working on it. Don't watch any of my older stuff 😜.
@@DustorBust Nah I didn't mind too much. I went and looked at a set of "high performance" Corvair valves I have that was about to get shipped out for a valve job, and lo and behold--they have that big lip that needs to knocked off!!
There’s 10 reasons at least to like this video! 1. You keep the same theme with your channel and build. You are learning, just like all of us, and you do the research. 2. You’re not afraid to admit mistakes, we are only human!3. You had a great take away from it and gained some great knowledge of the process. The list goes on, anyway, let me know when you get some t shirts! I’ll buy the first one! Glad to see your channel grow and look forward to seeing this engine fire up! If you want to come over to Arkansas, we can light it off together 👍🏼
Thanks buddy! I really appreciate it 😁. This one was a lot of fun to learn and put together. At some point I will definitely make it down there to see you.👍
FYI, it is called back cut on the valve, but only back cut intake, DON'T do exhaust, it'll help reversion on exhaust...
If you want that swirl polish, it's easy , when you've finished modifying your valve , put it in the drill press and use a die grinder with the correct size flap wheel , but hold it at 45 degrees .
You can blend seat into bowl on intake side, you definitely want a smooth transition for smooth air flow. You can leave seat/bowl alone on exhaust, it'll help prevent reversion if done right.
Thanks for breaking down these valve mods and explaining why these angles help with reversion.
Thanks Frank, glad it was helpful!
Nice vid, don’t worry most of us porters have made mistakes ( including myself ). We do things and learn by our mistakes. Great content, I’m always looking for that extra few ponies 😉
Thanks for the encouragement! Yeah, every little bit counts. 😀
Great video. I'd like to do my own project (the first one) and I'm glad that I can learn from your videos. Thanks for sharing 👍
Hi, thanks for following! Awesome, glad the content was helpful. You should totally start a project 😃. If possible, my reco would be to start a project that is running or at least assembled. Either way, Good Luck!!
Great information!!! Keep it coming!!!
Thanks Iron Horse!!
This is very well done. So nice to HEAR clearly without a bunch of racket in the back ground.
How many times I’ve tried to watch a video and the audio is too faint to hear clearly.
I think it’s more important to remove that lip on the intake than the exhaust.
You want the fuel/air mixture to flow uninterrupted for a smooth transition. On the exhaust side? I’m not so sure, because I think you need it for reverberation which prevents back flow from occurring at certain valve positions and timing events.
Hi Gusszgs, thanks for the comment and complimenting the sound quality. I really appreciate it. Definitely agree that the intake is more important than the exhaust. I don't believe the lip does anything for you on the exhaust either since performance valves tend to not have them. Thanks for watching!
As it comes off the base circle low lift and as it comes back into the base circle is where the improvement is and a good 3 angle valve job and use flat top not tulip shaped valves which have a small dish gives you a slight compression increase. The valve in a Chuck with a carbide tooling setup at the right angle would do the job perfectly and much more accurately you have to stay off the margin at all costs...to do this to an old set may not be cost effective in the long run. And hey you can learn a lot from trying this on old junk stuff and perfect your technique. Cool video!
Thanks Moparnut! I appreciate the tips. I will need to look more into the Flat top vs. Tulip, that one is new to me. You win some you lose some, I need a bit more machining practice 😂, but the knowledge was worth it. Thanks for checking it out!
@@DustorBust yeah man you always put out an interesting video!
@@moparnut6286 Thank you Sir!
Next time you want to do that, get some sort of spinning small abrasive disk. While the valve is spinning, you'll be sanding against the concentric rings. Swirl polishing will make the top of the valve smoother in the direction of airflow and it'll break the edge where it transitions to the top angle (or sealing angle in a valve that isn't back cut).
Thanks for the tip!
Truly love the content Marcos keep it up man!
Thanks buddy!
Idk why but that left taillight looked so surreal in the beginning lol.
Ps: excellent video thanks
Thanks derkinn!
hi,,, we doing this reprofile valve since year 2000.... yes it given a lot improvement performance and actually the valve will a bit lighter ..
Cool, thanks for sharing!
Love it Marcos! Interesting!
Thanks Thomas! 😀
Just use a valve grinder for the 30 degree back cut. Just use a drill or a drill press & a file to round the bottom of the margin edge.
You did so much more than most. You tried
Thanks Ninjapumkin!
I need that shirt!
Hi KryptoKing, good taste, you are the only person to mention it. I got this one from the website: donkeytees.com
Also, I have started my own shirt site focused on automotive designs. Still building the inventory, but please check it out. RevvedApparel.com
Thanks for watching!
This is great in theory, but flow benches and dynos have shown that these assumed benefits don't always play out.
Hi, I have learned to smooth off sharp edges to avoid them getting to hot. This to prevent premature ignition. How does that go together with sharpening the intake valves?
The exhaust valve runs much hotter, like 1,200 degrees at full throttle. The intake valve is cooled by gasoline droplets.
One thing, look at the stock and race valve, they are not as polished. What is going through the intake isn't pure air, it's vaporized gasoline, even air has friction, when a fluid object goes across a Polished surface there is no turbulence to bring that said fluid in suspense. With a rougher surface the 1st particles bounce off and then the particles right after bounce off those particles creating a better flow and swirl into the chamber. The lip you shim off is exactly for that purpose in a street engine that sees a lot of low revs it doesn't matter in a race engine because the idle is always set higher anyway. Vaporized gas is always more powerful than fluid gas. The next time I'm doing a valve job I'm going to cut in a swirl pattern on the entire stamp face of the valve to add more swirl and see what happens
Hi Ian, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Yes the OEM ones are super rough. I ended up doing a swirl polish on everything. Is that the right thing for a street car, maybe not, if not I guess I will just have to keep those revs up 🤣. Thanks for watching!!
Would a 3 angle race valve job improve performance on some 243 heads?
Hello lauro, sorry I am not familiar with 243 heads. In most cases a performance valve job will improve performance, but there are a lot of factors involved that effect how much it will improve. Good luck!
@@DustorBust appreciate it
Yes a 3 angle will help, also do a back cut (like the trickflow valve on the video) on the intake valve only,
Can blend bowl and seat area on the long side to make sure it's a smooth transition, David Vizard covers this very well. Never touch the port unless you know what you're doing, you can make port too big, and it cuts down velocity in the port, making lazy air...
That Yellow,..
What color name is that on your Duster?
Hi Hector, it is code Y1, High Impact Mopar colors, this color was discontinued in 1973. It was called Top Banana on Dodge cars and Lemon Twist on Plymouth.
@@DustorBust ok. Thats i thought, i remember when i was a kid in the 70s my uncle bought a yellow Duster and every where he went they would ask him what color was that, and he would reply, "Top Banana"..
A good thing to get better airflow is De-shrouding around the valve on the combustion chamber David Vizard has a great video on that czcams.com/video/39-JrS80_44/video.html
Hey Tazman, thanks for sharing! I am not familiar with this channel. I will check it out for sure 👍.
Also, never use tulip valves on intake, unless it is a hemi, but use tulip valves on exhaust...
Lap the valve you say you screwed up. If you get a .050 margin and it seals, fine.
Thanks for watching Joe. I ended up just buying a few more stock valves for $5 a pop and reworking them. Got a bit better with my process and was able to put a nice swirl polish with a Dremel. Engine seems to be running good, but I have not gotten the car far along enough to run passes or anything yet. It will happen this summer for sure.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it !
Every time I work on my car it’s a new experience. But to do this valve modification is very brave if you didn’t have spares. LOL. Gotta be careful if your doing a broke ass build with no extra money.
Be safe.
It was a good learning experience, but I will probably just buy them or have it done next time. It was a bit of a pain, and I did screw up a few😂.
Or you could just buy a set of valves that already have all of this done during manufacturing, and move on to other things.
bro.. good info but a looot of talking lol
Thanks Troy, I appreciate the feedback. It takes a lot of practice to dial in the right amount of info while being concise. Still working on it. Don't watch any of my older stuff 😜.
@@DustorBust Nah I didn't mind too much. I went and looked at a set of "high performance" Corvair valves I have that was about to get shipped out for a valve job, and lo and behold--they have that big lip that needs to knocked off!!