I replaced front sprocket on my CBF125. Only front one, because that one turns 3x often than the back one. Front wears out first and it's good to replace it just before you can notice any wear. This way you bring whole set to almost brand new condition. Considering how cheap front sprockets are - it is very good practice to replace front sprocket TWICE per whole drive set. I replaced 16T with 15T and noticed no change in top speed. It used to go 105km/h, now goes 102 km/h. My Honda also developed head gasket leak. Sometimes it went 90km/h only, then went up to 102km/h, then drop again. Weird stuff. I just replaced gasket and waiting for warmer days to test my new ride. Funny thing is - I have another front sprocket prepared and I will be interchanging them as I need. For everyday city commuting - 15T, if I want to go on roadtrip - 17T. Changing is easy and takes minutes. Cheers from Poland.
i just changed my chain and front and back sprockets on my CBF125. D.I.D they cost £35 off wemoto. it's definitely worth changing the lot for that price!
Hi. Great video. I learnt a lot. However I have a question. When I loosened the rear axel & the chain tensioners... when i went to give the tire a nudge to move it forward it didn't budge. The left side nut closest to the chain is still a little stiff... but the right side one is spinning loose. Any ideas on how to make the wheel go forward. The new chain is about a link and a half away from being able to go on. Any tips welcome. TY
Hi, the nut you refer to on the chain side is not a nut, it's the end of the axle, it's only nut shaped so you can hold it still with a spanner to stop the axle spinning when you slacken the right side, I found it often got stuck as it was always a good fit in the wheel bearings so often wouldnt loosen on the chain side. To slacken the chain side run the nut on the right side out to the end of the axle to cover the axle threads and hit this nut lightly with a hammer making sure not to damage any theads until the axle moves to the left through the wheel and swing arm slightly and the axle head/nut left side starts to move out and loosen on the chain side. The wheel should then be free enough to move forward.
When putting the cover back on, my trick it to have the top bolt going through the hole to prevent the metal guard from dropping so easily. What do you have zip tied to the swing arm? What is that cable ??
The zip ties are holding an oil feed tube from a scottoiler automatic chain oiler. It drops a small amount of oil onto the chain every so often when your riding. Although honestly I found it to be the worst system available, very dirty, flings oil all over the place and doesn't work very well in the cold as the oil doesn't flow freely. I now use a Pd oiler, much cleaner, doesn't fling oil everywhere, far more effective coating on the chain and not affected by cold weather at all, highly recommended if your thinking of getting one, I've had one on every bike I've owned since.
hello, i just need 1 answer. whats the mm of front sprocket? 17mm or 20mm ? ? i will also chanhe it. and pitch also , 428 or 520 lr any other spec? kindly tell. . .
Hi, I don't have many specs anymore as I now have a different bike but from what I remember the best sprockets on this bike is the original 16 tooth front and 42 tooth rear, you get the best of torque and top end from that setup. The bike came to me with a 428 chain set which I believe is standard for this model.
I don't actually have this bike or chain oiler anymore. On my current bike I'm using a Pdoiler which is just an electronic version of a constant loss system, I'll see what I can do about a video but in the meantime check out this version of a constant loss system, the Tutoro, czcams.com/video/dm7xUC1xPNE/video.html you could also visit the Pdoiler website www.pdoiler.co.uk/index.htm
Thanks m8...I've owned this bike for 5 yrs now .n dropped just 25K miles on it(hardly use it).Its now starting to sound rough at anything above 4000 RPM.Any ideas or suggestions???? I mostly use it for cursing on Highway..... Mine is Stock 14/43 Sprocket!
Here in the UK 25k on a 125 is concidered high mileage. Most people sell them on at a much lower mileage as 125s are mainly seen over here as a step to bigger machines. Our licencing laws restricts us with a combination of age, engine power, and experience before we can move onto bigger bikes. with 25k on a 125 I would expect it to start running a little under powered/rough by now due to the amont of wear on the rings and cylinder barrel. high rpm bikes like 125s wear out alot quicker that their lower rpm bigger brothers. I changed the oil on my 125 (in this vid) every 1000 miles, it ran 16/42 sprockets and I sold it on at 8k for a 250cc CBR which I also sold on at 8k and am now on a NC700 which I aim to keep for many years.
It's about 25mm roughly of slack, I never measured it on this bike, if it felt ok, looked about right, behaved ok, that was good enough for me. As long as there was some slack but not enough for the chain to lash excessively it was always fine.
Mine did also back and forth, I don't think it's a major issue as if you check through the whole drive train you'll find theres play in all of it, in the main drive shaft the gears the chain slack the rear wheel chush drive, all of it. When you pull off or throttle off, that moment of cluck as all the slack get taken up well that's where it comes from.
@@xd-ii6hnsorry can't help you there, I sold the bike a while back and think I must of parted with the workshop manual at the same time, I never changed the rear sprocket or chain during the short time I had this bike so have no recollection of what the torque setting was for the rear sprocket.
Hi I had cbf 125.. I had vibrations from engine crossing above 45 kmph..can you tell the best solution for vibration in engine and which oil is suitable.can I use synthetic oil.With that how to improve pick up..
naveen rengarajan I always used 10w40 full synthetic oil when I had this bike, I changed it every 1000 miles. As for the vibration if it's at speed, check your wheels are balanced correctly, it does make a difference. If your bike has high mileage it's possibly down to engine wear. If it's neither then I couldn't say without experiencing it for myself. If it's a real problem get it checked out by a pro.
Hello dear friend, I myself am from Russia, I own such a motorcycle for a year now and it's time to adjust the valves, write down what clearances should be, since I don't know your language well. Thanks in advance, the text was translated in a google translator)
Yes this would be the case if the existing Chain and sprockets had many 1000's of miles on them and were "showing" signs of ware and stretch when examined, But this chain/sprocket set was only 2000 miles old and no ware was present. Many people replace part's needlessly because of things seen or read which claim to be an authority on the task being preformed. Examine every part involved in the repair and if no ware is present, re-use the same part/parts and save shed loads of cash. This practice however "does not" apply to brake pads, shoes or disks which must be replaced in pairs !
Hi cheers for the answer I got a cbf 125 2011 and it has 10,000 miles do u think a sprockets and chain replacement would be necessary, am also wondering did the 15t on the front make eny noticeable diffrance? Awesome video by the way
bartek gwardys To be honest I should of done a follow up to this vid, the next day I took the sprocket back off because the drop in top end was too significant for me. Where I was getting 70mph top with the 16t, I got 58mph with the 15t but the acceleration was awesome. It also meant that I had very little adjustment left in the chain as the wheel moved so far back. I've also tried a 17t sprocket but it makes the bike too lethargic and a good head wind is then devastating to engine torque. I've come to the conclusion that the 16t for this bike is spot on for speed and torque.
Mr Whistlenose Oops forgot about your chain, 10,000 miles is close to half it's life if its been looked after properly, Look for tooth shoulder ware, the tooth gap should have a nice round look to it and not oval and the teeth should not be pointed. to check for chain stretch, put pressure on the centre of the chain to make it tight and then try to pull it off the back of the rear sprocket with the other hand, if there is slack the chain has stretched. check out these vids, chain stretch Easy Motorcycle Chain Stretch Test Sprocket ware How to inspect your chain and sprockets
that was hilarious. had me in ffffffflippin stitches, especially the bit where you sat on the stone. very informative none the less, cheers buddy.
fantastic commentary
I replaced front sprocket on my CBF125. Only front one, because that one turns 3x often than the back one. Front wears out first and it's good to replace it just before you can notice any wear. This way you bring whole set to almost brand new condition. Considering how cheap front sprockets are - it is very good practice to replace front sprocket TWICE per whole drive set. I replaced 16T with 15T and noticed no change in top speed. It used to go 105km/h, now goes 102 km/h. My Honda also developed head gasket leak. Sometimes it went 90km/h only, then went up to 102km/h, then drop again. Weird stuff. I just replaced gasket and waiting for warmer days to test my new ride. Funny thing is - I have another front sprocket prepared and I will be interchanging them as I need. For everyday city commuting - 15T, if I want to go on roadtrip - 17T. Changing is easy and takes minutes. Cheers from Poland.
Dzis zmiana na 17 zębów, zobaczymy :-) Te 5km/h wiecej przyda sie na trasie
How would i substantially increase torque, i dont mind if maxspeed becomes 45mph, as long as acceleration is there
@@zantesh 14 teeth is the smaller it can take .. also make sure you have the suspension to hardest setting
This is the funniest video. Narration and mannerisms.
Thank you 🙂
i just changed my chain and front and back sprockets on my CBF125. D.I.D they cost £35 off wemoto. it's definitely worth changing the lot for that price!
I agree, that is a great price. was that for an O-ring chain or just a standard ?
+imautuber444 o ring chain
Hi. Great video. I learnt a lot. However I have a question. When I loosened the rear axel & the chain tensioners... when i went to give the tire a nudge to move it forward it didn't budge. The left side nut closest to the chain is still a little stiff... but the right side one is spinning loose. Any ideas on how to make the wheel go forward. The new chain is about a link and a half away from being able to go on. Any tips welcome. TY
Hi, the nut you refer to on the chain side is not a nut, it's the end of the axle, it's only nut shaped so you can hold it still with a spanner to stop the axle spinning when you slacken the right side, I found it often got stuck as it was always a good fit in the wheel bearings so often wouldnt loosen on the chain side. To slacken the chain side run the nut on the right side out to the end of the axle to cover the axle threads and hit this nut lightly with a hammer making sure not to damage any theads until the axle moves to the left through the wheel and swing arm slightly and the axle head/nut left side starts to move out and loosen on the chain side. The wheel should then be free enough to move forward.
When putting the cover back on, my trick it to have the top bolt going through the hole to prevent the metal guard from dropping so easily.
What do you have zip tied to the swing arm? What is that cable ??
The zip ties are holding an oil feed tube from a scottoiler automatic chain oiler. It drops a small amount of oil onto the chain every so often when your riding. Although honestly I found it to be the worst system available, very dirty, flings oil all over the place and doesn't work very well in the cold as the oil doesn't flow freely. I now use a Pd oiler, much cleaner, doesn't fling oil everywhere, far more effective coating on the chain and not affected by cold weather at all, highly recommended if your thinking of getting one, I've had one on every bike I've owned since.
What the tool that you use to measure the distance on each side of the wheel called?
+zakplayyy its a vernier caliper.
sounds like Ainsley Harriot from the beginning ...
Are u not supposed to change both sprockets and chain otherwise ur just going to ware out the new sprocket really fast
hello, i just need 1 answer. whats the mm of front sprocket? 17mm or 20mm ? ? i will also chanhe it. and pitch also , 428 or 520 lr any other spec? kindly tell. . .
Hi, I don't have many specs anymore as I now have a different bike but from what I remember the best sprockets on this bike is the original 16 tooth front and 42 tooth rear, you get the best of torque and top end from that setup. The bike came to me with a 428 chain set which I believe is standard for this model.
ok thanks. i just ordered 16t 428.
What is that zip tied thing that goes upto your rear left seat? Also how many teeth's on the rear?
The rear sprocket has 42 teeth and the zip ties are securing a constant loss chain oiler system.
Can you make a vdo on "constant loss chain oiler system." Would appreciate it!
I don't actually have this bike or chain oiler anymore. On my current bike I'm using a Pdoiler which is just an electronic version of a constant loss system, I'll see what I can do about a video but in the meantime check out this version of a constant loss system, the Tutoro, czcams.com/video/dm7xUC1xPNE/video.html
you could also visit the Pdoiler website www.pdoiler.co.uk/index.htm
Thanks m8...I've owned this bike for 5 yrs now .n dropped just 25K miles on it(hardly use it).Its now starting to sound rough at anything above 4000 RPM.Any ideas or suggestions???? I mostly use it for cursing on Highway..... Mine is Stock 14/43 Sprocket!
Here in the UK 25k on a 125 is concidered high mileage. Most people sell them on at a much lower mileage as 125s are mainly seen over here as a step to bigger machines. Our licencing laws restricts us with a combination of age, engine power, and experience before we can move onto bigger bikes. with 25k on a 125 I would expect it to start running a little under powered/rough by now due to the amont of wear on the rings and cylinder barrel. high rpm bikes like 125s wear out alot quicker that their lower rpm bigger brothers. I changed the oil on my 125 (in this vid) every 1000 miles, it ran 16/42 sprockets and I sold it on at 8k for a 250cc CBR which I also sold on at 8k and am now on a NC700 which I aim to keep for many years.
How do you know how tight the chain needs to be?
It's about 25mm roughly of slack, I never measured it on this bike, if it felt ok, looked about right, behaved ok, that was good enough for me. As long as there was some slack but not enough for the chain to lash excessively it was always fine.
should front sprocket have a little play? mine it has...back and forth..
Mine did also back and forth, I don't think it's a major issue as if you check through the whole drive train you'll find theres play in all of it, in the main drive shaft the gears the chain slack the rear wheel chush drive, all of it. When you pull off or throttle off, that moment of cluck as all the slack get taken up well that's where it comes from.
@@imautuber Yeap with a research I did its actually normal..nothing wrong with it :)
How do you know the torque to tighten it? Does it say in the owners manual?
All the torque settings for this bike are in the 'workshop' manual not the owners manual.
@@mrwhistlenose8883 Thanks for answering! Would you be kind enough to share the torque required to tighten the rear sprocket bolt? Thanks beforehand
@@xd-ii6hnsorry can't help you there, I sold the bike a while back and think I must of parted with the workshop manual at the same time, I never changed the rear sprocket or chain during the short time I had this bike so have no recollection of what the torque setting was for the rear sprocket.
Would have been smart to wear gloves haha but good video cheers mate
Hi I had cbf 125.. I had vibrations from engine crossing above 45 kmph..can you tell the best solution for vibration in engine and which oil is suitable.can I use synthetic oil.With that how to improve pick up..
naveen rengarajan I always used 10w40 full synthetic oil when I had this bike, I changed it every 1000 miles. As for the vibration if it's at speed, check your wheels are balanced correctly, it does make a difference. If your bike has high mileage it's possibly down to engine wear. If it's neither then I couldn't say without experiencing it for myself. If it's a real problem get it checked out by a pro.
Hello dear friend, I myself am from Russia, I own such a motorcycle for a year now and it's time to adjust the valves, write down what clearances should be, since I don't know your language well. Thanks in advance, the text was translated in a google translator)
извините, но у меня больше нет этого мотоцикла или руководства по ремонту, поэтому у меня нет этой информации
Exhaust 0.12mm +- 0.02mm and Inlet 0.08 +-0.02mm
Are u not supposed to change both sprockets and chain otherwise ur just going to ware out the new sprocket really fast
Yes this would be the case if the existing Chain and sprockets had many 1000's of miles on them and were "showing" signs of ware and stretch when examined, But this chain/sprocket set was only 2000 miles old and no ware was present. Many people replace part's needlessly because of things seen or read which claim to be an authority on the task being preformed. Examine every part involved in the repair and if no ware is present, re-use the same part/parts and save shed loads of cash. This practice however "does not" apply to brake pads, shoes or disks which must be replaced in pairs !
Hi cheers for the answer I got a cbf 125 2011 and it has 10,000 miles do u think a sprockets and chain replacement would be necessary, am also wondering did the 15t on the front make eny noticeable diffrance? Awesome video by the way
bartek gwardys To be honest I should of done a follow up to this vid, the next day I took the sprocket back off because the drop in top end was too significant for me. Where I was getting 70mph top with the 16t, I got 58mph with the 15t but the acceleration was awesome. It also meant that I had very little adjustment left in the chain as the wheel moved so far back. I've also tried a 17t sprocket but it makes the bike too lethargic and a good head wind is then devastating to engine torque. I've come to the conclusion that the 16t for this bike is spot on for speed and torque.
Mr Whistlenose Oops forgot about your chain, 10,000 miles is close to half it's life if its been looked after properly, Look for tooth shoulder ware, the tooth gap should have a nice round look to it and not oval and the teeth should not be pointed. to check for chain stretch, put pressure on the centre of the chain to make it tight and then try to pull it off the back of the rear sprocket with the other hand, if there is slack the chain has stretched. check out these vids,
chain stretch Easy Motorcycle Chain Stretch Test
Sprocket ware How to inspect your chain and sprockets