Never buy a TOYOTA with these issues according to the 20+ years of CAR WIZARD mechanic experience!
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- čas přidán 5. 04. 2023
- If you're looking at buying a Toyota (or really any other car) you've got to see this video. After working on cars for over 20 years the CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ has found 5 issues on TOYOTA's that you NEVER, EVER buy a car with!
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The biggest issue with Toyota's are the previous owners.
A lot of owners think "It's a Toyota, I can change the oil when ever I feel like it" or "Its a Toyota it's so good that it doesn't need any maintenance done to it at all". There are a few Toyota engines that if you don't change the oil every 5k by the time it hits 100k miles it starts burning 1qt every 1000 miles and will need an engine rebuild.
That's half right. Deferred maintenance harm all vehicles but it seems like Toyota handle them a lot better. Imagine deferring maintenance on a BMW or Mercedes, those would be a basket case in 5 years tops.
Most newer Toyotas hybrids recommend oil changes every 10k miles. I have 2012 Prius C with 320,000 miles and have always followed that. Their 5k maintenance light is not oil changes. They want you to come in for tire rotations every 5k. But nothing wrong with doing it more often either way
Same with Subaru, they're more maintenence sensitive than Toyotas with the boxer engine and many people ignore them and them blame the car.
And THAT is why I stay away from cheap civics/corollas etc
"Has 300,000km on it and burns 1L of oil every 1500km but will last forever" no, not really . It's gonna need all kinds of work to push further than that because of your severe neglect. Just because it's a Honda, Toyota etc. Doesn't mean it doesn't need maintenance. Lol
Agree. Been used car shopping and mofos dont maintain their cars and still want a high amount bc its a toyota or lexus and "they last forever" *with maintenance.
1. frame rust
2. timing belt
3. lower ball joints
Stripped out head bolts, a huge job and requires a skilled mechanic to perform.
If the frame rusted away, the body is rotten too. Same with fuel lines, brake lines, ect. First gen Tundras too, not just tacoma
@Jimmy Two Times because Toyotas are regular cars too and they blow head gaskets too. Toyotas aren't more or less bulletproof than other brands except for GM and ford ecobooms
@@enjoyingend1939 I don't see many other cars or trucks with the mileage that tacomas, ls400, camry etc have been able to rack up. Many of them are pushing 300, 400, 500k miles. I've never seen a frontier or ram with that much mileage.
that’s any car tbh
One small thing. When you turn the ignition, or press the push to start quickly you should see all the dash lights turn on, including the check engine light. If it didn't turn on at the start it has been tampered with.
Either tampered with or on so long the bulb burned out 😂. Not good either way. I came here to say this, but you posted first so you got a like instead!
That's a good call. Thanks
Not always could be the pcm is not communicating
Oh-thanks!
2006 Toyota avalon. Worst car I ever had. Problems that couldn't be fixed or found. Various electrical battery. Alternator fuse box problems. Non stop. A curse. Lost. Thousands trying to fix. Financed for four years. Plus trying to keep it going. Big time loss
Also, when you turn the key to the first position (ignition on) make sure the warning lights all light up, especially the check engine light. If it doesn't light then it doesn't work-someone has disabled it because the engine is throwing codes...which brings me to another suggestion. Bring a code reader and know how to use it.
Good 👉 point
Wizard didn't mention any specific Toyota to avoid buying. These points apply to all used cars if you're shopping for one.
But the Car Care Nut did. He said avoid 98-02 Toyota Corollas, 07-09 Camrys with the 2AZ-FE, 06-08 RAV4s with the 2AZ-FE, and the 2016 Tacomas to name a few. The only exception for a 2AZ-FE is that it has to have documentation that the engine has been rebuilt with upgraded OEM Toyota pistons and pistons oil squirters or replaced with a OEM Toyota short block. After replacement, use 5w30 instead of 5w20.
@@atx-cvpi_99 2016 Tacoma makes sense. First year of the current gen Tacoma with all the bugs that haven't been worked out yet.
@@atx-cvpi_99 Agreed 💯
@@atx-cvpi_99 first year of any new make or model, esp with a new engine model - you always have to watch out for.
@@mikenormandy9250 Some launches were successful while others were not.
Other tips: 1. Always do a cold start.
2. If it looks a little off in the pictures it will look worse in person. 3. Take a magnet to look for bondo on the body. 4. Sign of a responsible owner is having all original keys with the original spare and the handbook. Always look at the carfax for regular oil changes.
Not all shops report to Carfax. Also, if someone does their own oil changes, they won't show either. But it's always a plus when they are listed!
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those are pretty good tips. I figured bondo would be less of an issue, mostly because if its a shoddy sh*t job, youll see it in the panel and the paint. but i mean magnet for bondo check is pretty solid didnt even think of it
I'm looking at purchasing a used Lexus LS460 and I had about half of this written down from what I've read here and there. Thank you for giving me an F and then everything I need to get an A+. This is much appreciated.
Thank you for keeping this lists series alive. My favorite thing is just hearing car wizard sit down and talk.
What's funny is the original 2GR engines had a metal filter housing and then they switched to plastic and then switched back to metal once they realized that plastic is plastic
The rest of the auto industry charged forward, pretending plastic wasn't plastic.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 its not plastic it’s “reinforced polymer” 😂
@@bilboswaggens2975 Yep I’ve heard that one before 🤣
This is how they keep busy.
I'll make them walk home if they don't shut their ass up LOL
In my experiece when checking over a used car , the most important point is to take another
person with you that knows what to look for, hopefully they will find the major issues
that you will miss when your mind is elsewhere.
I have helped a lot of my friends over the years and almost everytime they are looking for small
scratches and miss the important parts such as a full service history, but when you check the oil
it is like treacle and only just on the tip of the dipstick.
Toyota's are like any car, they need regular servicing for them to last, a neglected car is no good
to anyone.
Two patterns I’ve been noticing for the last, say, ten-twelve years: 1. Some Japanese car manufacturers starting to get lax in their quality control. 2. KIA and Hyundai are tightening their quality control. Only time will tell if I’m right or wrong .
You are correct. I didn’t think we’d ever see the day where those two brands even had a shot at coming for Toyota or honda
LOL, KIA Hynundai are terrible. Not even to mention the theft and insurance cost. Parts are crazy expensive for a cheap car too. ANd they do not honor the factory warranty ever
I would add one more thing to check under Tip# 4. Take a scan tool with you. There may not be any "lights" on, but it could be because the codes were recently erased. A descent scan tool will tell you which systems have not yet completed their drive cycle. I always ask if they mind if I connect my scan tool before I do so. If they tell me no, then it is on to the next car.
If the buyer was a trained mechanic equipped with a name brand scan tool (e.g. Snap-on) then i would have no reservations of allowing it to be connected to the vehicle. However, 'average non-vehicle trained Joe or Sue' with a generic scan tool - the answer would be NO.
@@georgebettiol8338 A simple, non bi-directional code reader is just that. It is a reader. It is capable of erasing codes, but it cannot change much of anything else. I, personally, have the XTool D8 and it is bi-directional. I would consider that tool, in the wrong hands, potentially more dangerous than a simple code reader. I also have an Innova 3160G that greatly lacks the features of the XTool D8 and I use the Innova when taking a cursory look at the state of the vehicle. I have yet to have anyone to tell me "no" when I am using that scan tool to check the status of the vehicle.
@@georgebettiol8338 my 20$ scanner does the same thing I need it to do in half the time ,
@@georgebettiol8338 why?
@@georgebettiol8338I would lol in your face call you a clown and drive off giving you the finger
The 1990-2006 Lexus LS400 and LS430 have interference engine timing belts. If you’re looking at those cars, make sure the timing belt job was recently done as it’s over $1000 to have it done at a shop.
The non VVTi engines are not interference engines. The VVTi engines are interference including the 3MZ, 2JZ, 3UZ, 2UZ, and 1UZ.
90-94 was a non interference engine. That came a few years after that model came out
I thought it was either 98 and later or 95 and later, although I've heard differing answers.
@@atx-cvpi_99 The 3MZ is listed as interference however it isn't.
The 1989-1995 is non interference engine.
I just stopped by your shop and purchased a kids shirt. Everyone had a great attitude and big smiles all around.
Car Wizard I'm glad I found your channel on CZcams. I first heard of you watching Car Issues with Tyler Hoover on Motor Trend channel. I love the way you explain things in a way that anyone can understand. I have 38 years of automotive experience working in different fields from being a mechanic to selling auto parts. I'm retired working part time at a big chain auto parts store. I find your videos informative and I can pass on what I'm learning to my customers. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, first point is key. A lot of Lexus + Toyota products have dash/leather issues. If you see one you're trying to buy and has had a previous recall, it's worth asking if the owner has the papers/proofs it was done!
To add to this, there are online search engines where you can type in the VIN and find out if the car has any outstanding recalls.
This is only during a specific period. Apparently some dash material manufacturers were using a bad batch of ?rubber? Leads to a lot of sticky dash issues, had that issue with my IS-F(Lexus replaced the dash for free) and my friend has that issue with her BMW. He's right to look out for it, it's was like 2k to replace the dash if I paid to have it replaced out of pocket.
Better than some American turd like a Chrysler or countless other examples that break down constantly and have much bigger issues (ie electrical, drivetrain). Always shake my head at the morons that drive those cars. I refuse to work on them in fact. Liability city. No thanks!
Yep. My 07 ES the dash completely melts. Tried sticky dash kit which is used across multiple manufacturerswith the issues of melting but isn't lasting. Needs a replace or dash cover. Not the only plastic or rubbers suffering. The steering wheel buttons rubber melting, trunk button on the trunk door completely melts in heat and hardens to a rock where you cant push it in the cold.
@@The2Coolest2 True but atleast it’s not a domestic hunk of junk that has major components failing left & right. I’ll take a melted dash over melted lifters lol
I've owned toyotas my whole life. From my experience, the 4-cylinder engines tend to burn oil after 200k miles. I've heard they have supposedly fixed this in newer engines (but with mixed success) but I've had the problem in more than one carollo and camry. Granted, other manufacturers would consider 200k miles a success, but I hold Toyotas to a hire standard. I only buy v6's or 8's now and I've never had a single problem with them. I've also NEVER had AC problems or transmission problems in a Toyota. For whatever reason, Toyota mastered those systems like no other car company.
03 corolla, 258k, no oil burning or its so miniscule its not noticeable on the dip stick.
Lots of oil changes its whole life.
Almost all engines wear out their valve guides and seals by 200k. You’re asking a lot…
@aarong.1075 what I saying and buy thsn if you do proper maintenance you will be fine my Honda lasted 376,591 before. Sold it and it still drives
212k miles on a 1zz-fe and no oil consumption, no leaks period, except a very small leak before of the gearbox and was just $20 axle shaft seals.
2010 Prius burns oil like a two stroke. Started around 100k and is an know problem, so no excuses of poor maintenance.
One thing that I believe was not mentioned by Car Wizard is to do a hard emergency stop on a quiet road as part of the test drive. Preferably somewhere downhill. I had one Highlander which turned on the check engine light after doing this. Guess what, I was not interested anymore in buying.
Good advise. Learned a few things :-)
I commend you on your honesty, your clarity, and your engagement. There are many people who have found your videos helpful and honest. You have my admiration. Thank you.
I try hard not to brand bash because I do know they have all had their good designs and bad designs. The difference I have found in Toyota is way better. I have had less problems with my Toyotas and I have seen Toyota stand behind their products when an issue does happen which is few. Toyota took care of the owners of the Tacoma trucks that had rusting frame issues. They extended warranties and replaced the frames. Not just that, but they learned the cause and fixed it. Same with the Toyota Camries that had the oil consumption issues due to Toyota trying out a new ring design supposed to be better, but had a flaw that caused them to freeze up causing oil consumption. They replaced the rings for free and extended the warranties on those models. I rarely see Ford or GM do this and that is why I stopped buying their stuff. If GM would acknowledge a design problem and stand behind it for their customers then I might still buy from them. They and Ford have had a lot of early engine failures that have been identified as design flaws yet they do nothing for the customer. I am 100% loyal to Toyota because they earned that loyalty by their actions.
Watch out for 4WD Toyota Matrix as rear diff goes bad by 100K and there are no replacement parts available.
The rear subframe is also an issue on the AWD Matrix and it's twin, the AWD Pontiac Vibe
Remove driveshaft.
Fixed.
@@jasonw7497 then 100 percent power is applied to the front end all the time......
@@byloyuripka9624 Like all FWD vehicles LOL
@@yukonstriker1703 seems like a good way to snap axles and pop diffs 🤷🏻♀️
Scotty Kilmer is Revving up his engine cause you’re dissing Toyotas.
This was the BEST video of used car buying checklists I have ever seen!! Wow!!! I’ve been married 25 years and my husband has bought at least 4 used cars early in our marriage that ended up being pure trash!!! I finally had to take over test driving and checking the cars out because he did not have my attention to detail. But this was a whole new level of detail to look for!!! I will be a BEAST looking for my next used car(Toyota or Honda)!!!😂 Thank You Car Wizard!!!!!
Hi Wizard, good to see you in your Spring fashion outfit. It makes me feel that Summer can't be far behind! Great video (as usual) by the way.
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to film and edit it. Priceless information Wizard,
Ha - great plate on the FJ.
Another SUPER good tip for *_any_* used car (dealer or private) - bring a scan tool. The potential to see stored codes, or if it was just recently cleared and see live engine data can be quick disqualifiers for shady vehicles.
Thank you wizard for informing people that Toyota is not indestructible. While I was working there I had tons of people who would neglect timing belts, even oil changes.
Maintenance is the key to any car being dependable imo. Listening, looking, smelling and being used to how your car sounds, smells, feels etc. I used to encourage customers to name their cars so they'd actually pay attention to them. Recently helped a customer with her "lifetime" Hyundai transmission and saved her tons reflashing her module.
(Shifting issues)
The last thing I care about when buying a car is Floor Mats 🤣😂I start with the engine, then drivetrain, suspension...lastly interior
How do you inspect the drivetrain?
@@saucemasterx911 Ummmm by driving it??? 👀
I drive a 2001 Camry 2.2 LE with 104,000 miles. It got a new timing belt and full service today and I call it my forever car ❤😅
That motor is indestructible with basic maintenance.
Got over 300,000 on my '01 Camry with the 5SFE engine. Change the oil and filter every 5K miles using full synth, drain/refill the trans fluid every 30K, drain/refill the radiator every 3 years using distilled water and you'll be good. I suck the brake fluid and power steering fluid out with a turkey baster every 2 years and replenish. Something to keep in mind, the differential is independent from the transmission so you have to drain and refill that separately.
@@muziklvr7776 thanks a lot, I'll keep that in mind 🫡
@@muziklvr7776 An advice for all vintage Camry lovers: always fill up your tank with ethanol free, 93 octane, premium fuel. Your engine and fuel system will thrive 😁
I remember looking at a 3rd gen 4Runner. Everything looked nice, everything worked. I went back after the lot closed and got under the car. I saw a spot on the frame of surface rust and reflexively scratched it. My finger went right through... Lesson learned.
That was private property buddy🤔you can’t do that! 😂
There is a saying "Never purchase a used vehicle north of the Mason Dixion line." They can also be ate up by sea salt on the coast. This spring I purchased a 93 Chev 1500 with no rust in Indianapolis. The truck was kept in a garage and not used much. Love me some 4Runners, great vehicles!
When it comes to getting the cartridge style filters off the thing that has worked best for me is the Matco Toy117 adapter. It doesn't use the plastic ears at all it uses the bottom of the plastic housing. I've used it hundreds of times and has never let me down. No other adapter works better.
5 years ago I bought a double cab Toyota Tundra for $6800 with low miles but it had a broken taillight, cracked windshield, some minor scratches, and the timing belt service was due. I still got a great deal and I still have the truck. It is completely rust free despite being a 2006, however this truck has never seen a salted road in its life.
Very good advise wizard! Another thing I do to check if the vehicle has been wrecked is checking the glass. Other than the windshield I check to see if the glass has the manufacturer stamped into it. Some models also have the vin etched in each piece if they’re original.
My Kid used to always have his floor mat jammed up by the accelerator on his camry, Its user error for sure, You have to check these things lol
I'm hunting down a Toyota as my daily driving, your videos are helping me a lot. Thanks
This was amazing! Felt like my Dad was giving me these guidelines. It’s like the Car Talk guys. Thank you so much David. So wish you were in Austin, TX.😢
Mr Wizard, great advice! Your channel is awesome. 👍
Cracking dashboards are very rare in the Netherlands due to our climate. Rust however can be an issue.
The force is strong in this one.
Never ever have I heard ‘toy Joda’ referenced so much in a single video.
😊
Good advice, Dave.
This goes for any vehicle, not just Toyota.
I was told over 30 years ago the best thing to do on a Toyota WAS TO ONLY USE A OEM TOYOTA OIL FILTER.
Why?
I generally just stay away from FRAM
I’ve heard that too but it’s probably from people that’s used Frams.
The Wal-Mart filters are one of the best....Per Scotty
WIX is one of the best and Napa gold are same as WIX
the 4cyl 2.7l engine in the Tacoma has a secondary air intake system that is supposed to flush gasses from the exhaust. There's a foam air filter inside the intake that wasn't designed to be serviceable. It can crumble with age and get sucked into the air system wreaking havoc. Costs about a thousand to replace the secondary blower motor.
Car Wizard I appreciate your knowledge. I put your videos on to go to sleep, you have a very calm voice.
one big thing exterior/paint wise i think you missed mentioning is the toyota Blizzard Pearl paint recall. basically, poor quality paint will can start peeling off like the shell of a hardboiled egg.
the initially affected panel or panels may have already been touched up/fixed, but any other panels can still start peeling (especially right after the extended recall campaign support ends)
Thanks for this.👍
It is worth noting that things like for example veering in one direction when stopping especially on softer suspension is sort of inherent on vehicles with solid axles or beam axles such as Heavy duty pickups or jeep wranglers. This usually happens when components have worn down, if it's bad enough you can get into death wobble type things, but these can occur on new suspension components as well depending on the vehicle. These issues are often worst when you have a lifted vehicle such as a jeep if the other components such as a steering dampener or bigger panhard bars havent been added
I bought my second gen 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4 cyl, 4x2, access cab with manual transmission brand new off the Toyota lot in May 2005. Paid it off on time in May 2010 and have been driving it ever since. Not a whole lot of miles because for many years I walked or rode my bicycle to school/work. Currently has about 89,000 miles, all in Southern California in the Los Angeles area. Never off-roaded and miraculously no wrecks. Here are all the problems I've had with it:
1) Less than 10K miles -- Manual transmission made a horrifically loud squeaking noise that could be heard from the sidewalk when I drove down the street. Loud squeak every ten seconds on average as I shifted. Huntington Beach Toyota dealership claimed this loud transmission squeak was not valid for repair under the "3 yr/36,000 mile total powertrain warranty." I asked if they had any *intelligent* people I could speak to instead of the sales sleazeball; they quickly caved and "fixed" the squeak by shooting some thick lithium grease around the clutch fork pivot assembly. The grease fixed the squeak for six months and the whole act was repeated over and over until the warranty ran out. It's still a problem I deal with by spraying my own grease, especially during wet weather.
2a) 40K miles in -- Clutch pedal assembly inside cab now squeaks loudly. Paid $250 to have this entirely replaced by local mechanic. He was visibly nervous about his fix when he handed back my keys back but it turned out fine. Occassional squeaks but not bad.
2b) 40K miles in -- Sideview mirrors vibrate themselves loose and nearly fall off. Fixed myself.
2c) 40K miles in -- Light grey paint began peeling on top of cab and at wheel fenders. Haven't fixee but did stop going through automated car washes, which slowed deterioration.
3a) 60K miles -- Inside the lower right dash, the AC fan blower motor failed. I followed advice online and replaced a cheap module first by myself, which didn't fix fan. Later replaced the whole blower fan myself, which did make the AC blow again.
3b) 60K miles -- Driver'a visor failure.
4) 65K miles -- Oil seep from valve cover at top, back right portion of engine. Very minor seep but unfortunately drips straight down onto the header, making the whole car smell like it's on fire. Problem exacerbated when parked at right sloping curb as oil flows from inside engine to that hole. Solved cheaply by parking nose down on a level driveway as much as possible. Partially fixed myself.
5) 70K miles -- Repeated AC gas leaks. Paid multiple times to recharge AC gas but charges only lasted two month each before gas drained.
6) 75K miles -- Gas cap seal failure, coding incorrectly as a fault with some weird emissions valve in the engine bay? Fixed myself.
7) 80K miles -- Major engine coolant leak from somewhere in the lower front of the engine block. Noticed engine coolant resevoir repeatedly and randomly dropping and dried pink crust at front kf engine. Fixed myself.
8) 85K miles -- AC failing again but cause unknown.
9) Entire ownership period -- Headlight housings faded badly. Replaced both housings three times.
10) Multiple, major recalls in this order: incorrect safety warnings, seat belt failure, steering column failure, dangerous floormats, dangerous leaf springs, rusty frame check (pass).
Finally: EPA advertised combined MPG of 22 but in reality it's only 14 MPG combined. A massive lie.
All in all not a bad truck. Total maintanence repairs out of my pocket is less than $1000 over nearly 18 years, not bad.
Wizard, GREAT video as always. As to the ever missing mats, the detail guys at the dealerships will bin them if they dont look like new. There is nothing worse than cleaning a car to look like when it came off the factory floor and then stick ugly and/or worn mats back into the car. And car dealers are too cheap to buy new ones for you; and sourcing them and then matching them up with the car is a hassle (it may have sold in the meantime, or gone to auction, etc.)
Tremendous advice. You educated me on so many things I would never have considered. Of course I don't own or drive an vehicles that have excessive wasteful options. Fewer options, fewer problems. I love plain old dependable Toyotas.
Thanks for all your great and educational videos. I was wondering what your thoughts are on the Highlander using a turbo engine. Do you think that this could decrease the longevity of the engine compared to the previous years.
When you turn on the ignition, make sure the little airbag warning light turns on for about 3-4 seconds. If it doesn't light up, it could be a major issue.
Also, from personal experience while looking at a used Sienna, when you open the tailgate and the panel/fender welds on the left side and the right look different, it indicates an accident. We walked away from the deal after seeing poor manual welding job. The left side had clean spot welds; the right side almost had blisters.
Thanks you car wizard, I really appreciate the info. Will recommend this video to anyone out there buying any used vehicle.
This is so helpful, I'm checking out an 2000 ls400 this week. I will be using all this tips 👌
when the Car Wizard posts about Toyotas and 4Runners I click immediately
This is a stupid worthless video. Dude, thinks everything should work on a used car.
me too man me too
Are 4Runners not a Toyota? 🤔
@@xXFireHawkXxHD 6666 😅is a good good place to 4😅
I am a simple man...when I see an old 4Runner, I click on it!
I've been Looking at 4Runners recently all because you recommend Toyota's Car Wizard!
Thank you for your support and advice my friend. God bless you. 👍
Good advice! I will use these tips the next time I go car shopping!
06 Highlander AWD limited 335k and 07 Tundra SR5 4x4 daily drivers. Still rocking and rolling!
Need to make sure all lights register, especially the check engine light with accessory on engine off. Someone could disconnect the check engine light before you buy a vehicle.
Yep, when I was younger and more dumb I purchased a car with no check engine light illuminated. Later found that the dash had been opened up the check engine bulb removed.
Priceless information for any make of car or truck. Thank you for sharing this with us. 👍👍
So far I've found the high end weather resistant floor mats for my cars at salvage yards. I'm not one to really option up a car, but those tough mats to me is what luxury truly is.
Thank you Wizard for the information that Scotty doesn't tell his viewers about!
Burn! LOL
Excellent video. Some basic points are well known, but you brought up lots of details. Great advice. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks wizard, I luv the buyers guide!!!
Don't forget to engage and disengage the parking brake. You rarely need a parking brake here, but I bought a car that had a parking brake that didn't disengage once it was set and I should have checked that stupid thing before hand. Lesson learned. Make sure the mileage is proper with the mileage in the tac. Otherwise you won't be able to resell it.
A few things to add from my experience as an auto tech. 90s Camry and Corolla power steering leaks are very common at the pump. And on Toyota's 1zzfe 1.8L 4 cylinder it is imperative that you make sure there is no excessive crankcase pressure because when these engines sit for a couple months or longer the piston rings in the cylinder at the lowest position can get stuck or seize in the piston. If you're lucky it may drive out, but of the 3 that I've had my first car sat for 2 years and had a completely dead cylinder, the second was fine, and my third currently has some excessive crankcase pressure. So if you're buying a Corolla or anything on that platform with that engine find out how much it was driven and how it was maintained
Crankcase pressure is as simple as PCV valve or hose if I'm understanding you.
@@moshet842 the PCV valve is new as that was my original hope for the engine but I had confirmed that both PCV valves operated as intended and the crankcase pressure is from compression glasses entering the crankcase from cylinder 2 for the new engine, I found this doing a cylinder leak down test on all 4 cylinders
Outstanding video Car Wizard! Thank You!
I can tell you put a lot of effort into this video, it shows.
In Germany, it is common for people who order the smaller displacement (cheaper) version of a luxury car to delete the model badges on the order form. The irony is, of course, that no one is fooled by this.
@@elpolaco7654 that exact point was made in the comment..
I've had many toyotas and the bad thing is that they are so boring..... because they never break 😂😂😂😂 but you can use that money to personalize your good toyota ❤
Yeah I has Hondas before and I used to like them better than toyota now it's opposite I'd rather have a toyota they are underrated and not modified as much as Hondas it feels good when you have a car that's not modified as much a you customize your own toyota
The stuff I see regularly on Toyotas are alternators going, usually an easy job to fix, and starter motors, which is also usually easy.
Something dangerous is the lower ball joints separating and the front wheel folding under the car.
Lastly, floating callipers on the rear where the brake pad is so worn it falls out and the calliper itself runs on the rotor. With new callipers, rotors, pads and labour cost, you can easily be looking at over $1000.
I want a Toyota and recently took my Son to check one out for me. Everything checked out except the frame... it was a total, I mean TOTAL rust nightmare and they wanted over 10,000 for it. SMH. everything under the car and the wheel wells are a total rusty nightmare. Thank you for my shopping list you gave me Car Wizard... this will help me find my 4runner 2006 to 2009. I love the body style.
Hey Wizard, one thing to remember when checking out the wheels is to look for the locking lug nuts! Make sure the owner has the key!!! Otherwise the removal can be anything between a mild hassle for the shop and nigh impossible without either damaging the wheel or drilling out the stud. Fun times.
But here's a very, very Toyota specific issue to look out for. MR2 Spyder convertibles produced in 2001 and 02. The precat converters on those had a tendency to shed small pieces of ceramic that sometimes got sucked back inside the cylinder and would trash the engine block. Before the issue became well known, some owners replaced their engine just to have the exact same problem happen within a few thousand miles. The later years had a redesigned exhaust manifold but Toyota never did a recall or officially acknowledged the issue.
The good news is that you can easily tell the newer years by the air intake inserts being painted to match the body vs black unpainted plastic like before.
Thank you for your advice 😊
I would like to have a Toyota. I'm planning at the moment. Your video timing is amazing.
Again thank you
Really enjoy your videos Wizard!!!
A great checklist that applies to all used cars. Thanks Car Wizard.
When it comes to vehicles without badges a lot of people “de-badge” there vehicles. It doesn’t always mean it was painted
Facts I always debadge my cars as a car guy or I'll just take the sign off and keep the logo like my current toyota
@@Jac735 I don't know one 'car guy' that's de-badged their vehicle..
@petesmitt well you need to get out more in the Chicagoland area it's very common
It's good to know that a person who has a vehicle folded in-half due to frame Rust is not experiencing a massive failure.
funni thing about the image of baby crawling across the road--- here in the greater western washington area in the great PNW, some guy stole a car that was being warmed up for a moment while the mother was grabbing something not far away and baby was in car seat in backseat. The thief drove off with immediate turn/sharp and the toddler fell out of the car immediately and almost instantly got up and started walking! It was literally the most amazing thing i've ever seen and the child was unharmed amazingly.
Great Cars Wizard, Case in point working in a Rental Fleet, Very Rarely an issue of Quality and function, with the exception of Wanton Customer Damage. Those vehicles were Solid Rigs. To work on and always a good Choice used as well. When well maintained
We need a video of the "thinking chair" and how you do it, most people want a "gaming chair" but i'd love to have a "thinking chair" like that one.
You missed some things there... Look for rust, especialy cars that lives in a place that put salt during winter. Look for frame, rocker pannels rear quarter pannels. Also BEFORE starting the car, look for the oil, the color, the smell. It will give you an indication that the car has been maintained. And If the level is low, it means it leaks or consumes oil. Some toyota engines have oil consumption issues due to oil rings or valve seals.
Wow! I'm going to listen to this again, and I'm taking notes. Thank you for this information.
You're always real ,keep it up
First revision of the 1zz engine had major ring issues 99-02. Came in celica’s and MR2’s as well as a few others. Avoid those or buy 03 or newer after the revision. 2AR’s had consumption issues as well in some model’s. Always saw guys rebuilding those.
A lot I see they all smoke or born oil whit 2025 k milles
Almost 500k on my 95 Toyota Paseo, 280k on my 96 Toyota Avalon, and 220k on my 01 Toyota Sienna
Love the wizard!!! He pulls no punches and tells it like it is.
Good advice, that 3rd gen 4runner is awesome.
Was looking at a used Toyota Avalon 78k miles, it ran nice but was showing wear on the steering wheel, and the body had imperfections, you can tell rear bumper was replaced and painted, and passenger rear door had waves. I was kinda pointing them out, and the dealer says "well it's a used car, it's not going to be mint" I looked at him and said " well your asking mint price, so was expecting a mint car". Obviously walked away.
Car Wizard what a great video and highly recommend to anyone who wants to buy any car. Not just a Toyota. We have had 8 or 9, currently 4 and have driven several well over 250K with minimal serivce. Thanks.
Any Toyota hybrid you are looking at be sure to inspect the brake booster assembly for any kind of audible leakage of air with the car on. Dad had consistent issues and certain models from the early 2010s did not get a proper recall for these issues and it is a very expensive repair to do even yourself
Once again very informative truly appreciate you taking the time out to make your Wealth of information available to your viewers I'd like to really meet you one day because you've helped me out a lot and I truly appreciate it thanks again..
I have a 2006 Lexus GS and a 1995 Toyota T100 (28 years)..... and both are awesome. Calif. cars and well maintained. They will last just as the wizard says....
2000 tacoma 4x4 manual 235,000 miles 2012 tacoma manual 4x4 2012 corolla 157,000miles.5000 mile oil and filter full synthetic.Use toyota brake pads 140,000 miles on pads tacoma at change.All original rotors.I would drive any of these cross country all 4 cylinder engines
@@garyaanderson214 You must be doing a lot of highway driving. I've never heard of pads lasting 140k. There is nothing special about Toyota brake pads, it's the highway driving for sure. It's also the highway driving why your cars are holding up solid.
@@moshet842 Years ago I had a Lexus that I bought used. The car would not stop properly and was super dangerous at higher speeds. I took it back to the dealership where I bought it. They said nothing was wrong. Total bullshit. I couldn't drive the car and finally took it to a brake specialist. He told me the "new" brake pads were no good.
We redid the brakes with Lexus OEM pads, etc and the car was excellent. It turned out that the DEALERSHIP put aftermarket brakes and parts on it and told me they had installed new brakes. New junk brakes! OEM brake parts ONLY!
Just picked up a 01 ls430, thanks to your videos and other like yours I was able to effectively check the car out before purchasing thank you car wizard.
Am very happy to come across this channel thanks bro
Hey Wizard, should check AMD's work on Toyota's on his channel The Car Care Nut, he explains there faults, what a failing VVTi system sounds like and how to look after the system.
That’s exactly what I did on the 2010 Corolla I just bought. I actually listened to his video on the 2009-2013 Corolla, took notes, and combined that knowledge with the Car Wizard’s tips to score a pretty decent car. The paint is a bit iffy on the top, that’s the sun here for you, but I knew to get it for a cold start to check VVT-i, where to look for damages, how to tell of something’s been fiddled with, and lots of great tips.
I would do all of the title and VinWiki/Carfax checks first - that way you don''t waste an hour or more of your day checking over a car that you're simply not going to buy!
100% When I'm interested in a vehicle I ask the owner for the VIN, ask if their is current active registration that isn't salvage/rebuilt etc, and also ask if they have service records before even going to see the vehicle.
Also when in accessory mode make sure the check engine lights up. It should. If it doesn’t the light may have been removed and the owner is trying to hide an issue
In my opinion the administrative things should be number 1. You want to make sure it's a vehicle that's legit before you spend your time inspecting the vehicle.
Hey Wizard! Here in Australia 1vd v8 diesels in Landcruiser 70 and 200 are well known to leak dust through the intake. Known as “dusting” it will eventually destroy the turbos and engine. There are several aftermarket air boxes addressing this, but using one voids your warranty.
I don’t have this issue on my current 200 series, yet. But did have it on my previous 70 series when driving remote dirt roads for hundreds of km. Currently looking into an aftermarket air box by Donaldson filters
In the US a v8 diesel landcruiser is a RARE gem.
Pack joint with grease
@@wildman4642 hasn’t worked for me, I just replaced it with an aftermarket solution.
we like gasoline engines on this side of the world i did see a corolla diesel back in the 80's
@@juanrodriguez-ry6ytSpeak for yourself. The majority of us would jump on a diesel Land Cruiser variant imported to America.
THANKS FOR THE INFO!!! LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!
Wizard I live here n the phillippines and there's some nice older model fjs that still look great and no one wants too sell keep up the gd work