Well done. I research the heck out of any offroad gear purchase. These are the exact pieces that I had pretty much decided upon. You did a great job in this video demonstrating the three Factor 55 pieces you reviewed. You approached the real world practicality of all the items that they sell, and demonstrated their strengths in a great hands-on way. I will be pulling the trigger on these items for sure.
Great True life, non-model presenter. Glad to see & hear the real world repair using worn, used synthetic rope versus brand new stuff like you said. Thank you.
Thank you, I been looking and watching 55 as they showing types and I like the set up you have flat link E and new fairlin and explain real world how it is
When in the shop. To make used stranded rope workable, soak in a bucket of warm water. Shrink it and stretch it in the water. Squeeze the water out and let it dry. It will be a lot easier to work with.
Hey Keller! I got 10 seconds into this video and was thinking to myself "Isn't this the guy who did the Molly Hogan fix video?" Hah! Nice to see that Factor55 set you up with some of their hardware. I'm bringing some of their products on-board for my winch rope manufacturing business - Check out their Splicer end, it's pretty spiffy. Anyway, I wanted to point out one thing about the splice that you demonstrated - When you finished pulling it through the rope, you then sucked the broken end back inside without doing a taper on it first. Without tapering, the end of the line inside acts as a pressure point against the outside jacket, and can lead to a failure there once it's loaded. It's generally recommended to taper the line by pulling three pairs of yarns, starting with where it exits the outer line and counting every 4th pair. You can then cut the remainder at a 45 degree angle and have a clean taper to suck back inside the line. Keep up the good videos!
I used my fast fid on some smaller, 3/8" polypropylene diamond braid line... ran into same problem... had to remove the core to make room for the fid. I wonder how much line strength is lost by removing the core? Anyone have success while keeping the core in?
Well done. I research the heck out of any offroad gear purchase. These are the exact pieces that I had pretty much decided upon. You did a great job in this video demonstrating the three Factor 55 pieces you reviewed. You approached the real world practicality of all the items that they sell, and demonstrated their strengths in a great hands-on way. I will be pulling the trigger on these items for sure.
well done. I'm thankful when grassroots down to earth people make the move to things like this. glad to know about the beefy fairlead too, cool 😎
Glad to see more demo's like this, your Molly Hogan wire rope repair method has blown alot of people away myself included.
Great True life, non-model presenter. Glad to see & hear the real world repair using worn, used synthetic rope versus brand new stuff like you said. Thank you.
Thank you, I been looking and watching 55 as they showing types and I like the set up you have flat link E and new fairlin and explain real world how it is
When in the shop. To make used stranded rope workable, soak in a bucket of warm water. Shrink it and stretch it in the water. Squeeze the water out and let it dry. It will be a lot easier to work with.
Who's got time for that? 🤣
Very informative. Great tip on getting rid of the line core.
Hey Keller! I got 10 seconds into this video and was thinking to myself "Isn't this the guy who did the Molly Hogan fix video?" Hah! Nice to see that Factor55 set you up with some of their hardware. I'm bringing some of their products on-board for my winch rope manufacturing business - Check out their Splicer end, it's pretty spiffy.
Anyway, I wanted to point out one thing about the splice that you demonstrated - When you finished pulling it through the rope, you then sucked the broken end back inside without doing a taper on it first. Without tapering, the end of the line inside acts as a pressure point against the outside jacket, and can lead to a failure there once it's loaded. It's generally recommended to taper the line by pulling three pairs of yarns, starting with where it exits the outer line and counting every 4th pair. You can then cut the remainder at a 45 degree angle and have a clean taper to suck back inside the line.
Keep up the good videos!
I like this guy! I buy all factor 55
Great review and demo man!
I used my fast fid on some smaller, 3/8" polypropylene diamond braid line... ran into same problem... had to remove the core to make room for the fid.
I wonder how much line strength is lost by removing the core? Anyone have success while keeping the core in?
GOOD JOB!
I have the flatlink-e and fair lead. Just picked up the fast fid and spool. Are you still running this stuff?
Yes sir
Made in USA...Boise Idaho!!!!!