Nice video Simon. I can confirm from experience that if you wire up the wrong end of the point motor to the DCC signal it does destroy the device. I bought mine before the manufacturer started putting the warning stickers on them and once in the gloom underneath the baseboard with some facing one way and some the other, its a surprisingly easy mistake to make. So I would strongly advise others not to the remove the sticker unless you need to use those terminals. Cheers, Ed.
I have used and tried every point motor there is and have to say without doubt these are the best, I am now using the IP Digital with the Alpha central and along with the plastic jig that you can buy it is so quick and easy, I used to dread fitting and wiring points now it's one of my favourite bit's.
Lovely review and installation Simon! This is what I will be using for my future layout as well and this will be a great reference to start with - added to my favorites!
Thanks for sharing Simon. A nice step by step video which makes the process of installing look pretty straightforward. I like the smooth motion it gives to the point. I think you've helped me decide to take the plunge and go for these on my layout.
Hi Simon Ive been using these for a while and find them to be easy to install and configure but I have had one that had an issue getting hot and working intermittently. I sent this to DCConcepts and they mended it and all under the lifetime guarantee, excellent service. The one other thing I do is as its tricky to get at the motors under the boards I replaced the supplied screws with some small wood screws as the ones supplied won't self tap into my base boards. Enjoyed the video and I can scrap mine now lol if you dont mind I'll link yours in my video. cheers Paul
Hi Simon, one quick note (9.44 mins) - I needed to send back a new electrofrog Peco double slip for repair. After wiring in IP Cobalt motors and removing the springs to the points, the point blade became detached. Peco explained that the spring has a dual purpose to ensure contact BUT also to retain the blade. They replaced all blades and springs explaining that point motors should be powerful enough to work with the spring.PECO advice - DO NOT REMOVE THE SPRINGS
Hi Simon, very nice video once again. The DCCconcepts point motors are excellent, well worth paying a bit extra, as I mentioned to you a while ago, DCCconcepts are now operating from the UK, they are very helpful guys, as I have rung them for some help a few months ago. Looking forward to your next update video. Take care, regards Gary 😊
That was a well made vidio Simon, and a great tutorial for Cobalt point motors. Your under baseboard wiring is very neat and tidy,. I must look up those connectors. All in all great job.
Good video explaining how to do the basic wiring, just purchased a box of 6 for my Horsell layout. I’ll be looking to sequence a pair so hopefully, will put up some footage myself of that process.
I am very interested to see how these Cobalt point motors fit out. You have explained it and demonstrated them very clearly. They seem like a well thought out solution. You may know I use Tortoise motors which are not DCC on board. I use Tortoise motors not just for points, they also operate my level crossing arms and the stops on my Faller road. So, I am very familiar with them and was curious about these Cobalt units. Thank you for the great explanation, Rob
Hi Simon, that's helpful. Others have said these are noisy, but that appears to be because they are clamped firmly to a resonant baseboardand use two stage gearing to give a slower and perhaps more prototypical throw. Some isolating rubber washers, or the sticky pad, should deal with the noise. I was very interested to see the extra functionality, especially the interlocking as well as the frog connection. And I believe that they are sourced by a British company. BobUK.
Hi Simon Great, easy to follow video as always. I would be interested in your views on the surface mounted DCC Concepts Cobalt SS motors as an alternative to under the baseboard motors. Cheers Chris
Great video Simon thanks. I noticed you had the actuator arm to one side of the point rather than in the middle. Is that a conscious decision or simply a practical one? Ian
Hi mate, thx for the useful video. What size hole did you drill for the tie bar? Did you have to adjust how far the tie bar moves with an N gauge turnout?
This video was my real Christmas present . Thank You , for this video . I am good at modelling , but not at wiring ...and had a few problems with my current switches . So please , would it be compatible to use Digikeys decoder , Tillig switches ( powered frog) and a Cobalt motor ?
Have you tried programming them with the new Z21 app? When I'm stripping wires, I only take the insulation part way off, then twist as I take it off completely. Makes a neater job and prevents getting the ends of the strands sticking in your fingers. :-) I use Kato and Minitrix point motors. I'll connect them one day.
I would like to build a bookshelves layout using those point motors they look rather large if I built boards with a depth of 6” would that be enough? Thank you for your time
Hello. I liked the video but am terrified of DCC despite having Railmaster with E Link that I cant quite figure as am autistic and cant always understand written instruction. But was curious as to what system you had on screen as I soak up information in visual form. Thanks, Tony.
Morning Simon, July 2022, just revising what I need to do to install my Cobalt iP Digitals in my N Gauge Code 55 points and noticed how you use the outside of the tie bar to change the point. Is this easier than trying the middle or is it personal preference? Thanks Peter
Hi Simon, in the middle of mine there is a small cut out rather like a notch hence my question. However, trying to think KISS (Keep it simple etc) I am feeling that for pure reliability the outside will be the way to go. Thank you for the inspiration modellers like you impart on others who are attempting to do what you have already done. Stay safe and once again thank you. The devil is in the detail that one can see after several watches. 👏👏👍👍
Although new at this I find the Wago connectors save even any crimping plus easy to disconnect wiring if needed. I would really like to know an easy way to get the piano wire from the motor through the little hole in the point whist grovelling under the layout often half upside down and cursing like mad!
Thanks Simon, have you used these motors on a Peco Code 100 SLE-99 Threeway point? As it requires two motors, and would appear a bit tight for space between the tie bars
I haven't done this myself but I spoke to DCC concepts a couple of days ago about this. They say that you can easily do this by mounting the motors with the throw arms facing each other. I have measured it up with a 3 way point off the layout and it looks like there is plenty of room. If in doubt call DCC Concepts on 01729 821080 - they are very helpful.
Just caught up with this great video. Just some questions as I am thinking of using these for my small layout. Are they easy to position so the wire throws the point all the way? Will they stop when the switch blade reaches the stock rail or must you adjust the throw wire? Thanks Dave
DCC concepts sell a guide which makes it as easy and quick as opening a pack of crisps, I managed to fit and wire 7 of these in an hour it used to take that for one.
I use Cobalt analogue with their smoothed 12v system if I can use one I bought by mistake by connecting to DCC and using an analogue switch this will be good(especially for my wallet)
The only criticism I have on these motors is they placed the fixing holes inside the plastic frame instead of flanges like they did on the side (what are they for? mounting to a vertical face?). This makes for very difficult drilling of pilot holes vertical into the board (as per your video where the drill chuck fouls on the motor casing) which is important as the supplied screws do not have very sharp self tapping threads so its a real challenge (I bought better screws). Needs a design review IMHO
I find not so easy when under baseboard trying to feed the throw bar into the point. Wonder why DCC concepts have been out of stock of these motors but other dealers are getting fresh stocks in. Just purchased another 12 ip's fresh in (July 2020). But none available from DCC concepts, strange.
You don't need anything else, just hook the motor up to your DCC BUS and depending on whether you're using a hand controller or the Z21 App, programme them accordingly. Simon has done a video on how to do this using the z21 and the App.
Cobalt is a RADIOACTIVE material. If this product includes cobalt magnets imported from the USA then it is illegal in Britain because of the radioactivity level. U.S laws are lax by comparison.
DCC a wonderful concept still unfortunately fundamentally flawed. As DCC was invented by an Electrical Engineer in the early 1980's, who had no understanding of railways. He simply created a commercially attractive solution to the major area of resistance preventing model railways becoming a mainstream hobby - i.e the electronics involved. As a result NO provision was made for the most important aspect of real railways, which is the physical inter-action between train movement and signalling. Quite the contrary. DCC has no option but to replace the traditional 12v DC in the rails, with 16v AC, as only AC (Alternating Current) can carry messages between the controller and the train or accessory "chips". In other words you can now move numerous trains simultaneously in any direction you like and even have head on crashes, which goes against the most fundamental safety rules of the real railway. 12v DC wired layouts won't allow head on crashes simply because DC ensures all locomotives go in the same direction, so it does at least start by complying with one of the most important real life safety rules - to prevent head on crashes. There are a number of manufacturers who provide DCC accessory chips that will operate signals. But it is impossible for these "signal controlling chips" to actually operate the signals in a real life manner. Why? Because these "signal controlling chips" cannot know what track layout you have, or detect the presence of trains in relation to the position of ALL the relevant signals. Signals in real life are inter-linked either mechanically (semaphore signals) or electrically (colour light signals). Why?. Because train drivers need warning signals usually a mile or so in advance of any red, or it will be impossible to stop a train in time. This problem of inter-facing the trains to the signals in a realistic manner using a Digital system, was soon recognised. But the solution is that computers are now needed along with a comprehensive understanding of both electronics, and real life signalling. This of course defeats the simplicity of DCC and increases the costs still further. It should be added that commercial DCC is itself between 100% and 300% more expensive than traditional 12v DC wiring methods. Realistically the only way to construct a true model railway as opposed to a toy train set, is to have signalling that works in a real life manner. The only way to do this is to have real life type "track circuits" which provide the inter-face between train and signals. The only way to do all this cheaply is to use a 12v DC system. As 12v DC has the advantage due to its electrical nature of accommodating two separate supplies in the rails (one to move the trains and the other for the track circuits) without creating an electrical short circuit ! The bottom line therefore is that while DCC may seem attractive (although more expensive) it simply prevents a recreation of a real railway in miniature due to its serious technical short comings. Another misnomer is that the word "Analogue" implies only one alternative. This is of course nonsense. One of the main advantages of using 12v DC is that you can choose from an infinite number of methods to wire your own layout, and tailor the wiring to suit the peculiarities of your layout. Unlike DCC which due to its international standardisation, is locked in and inflexible stone !!!
So much easier to fit these than I thought - thanks for a really helpful and informative video.
Nice video Simon. I can confirm from experience that if you wire up the wrong end of the point motor to the DCC signal it does destroy the device. I bought mine before the manufacturer started putting the warning stickers on them and once in the gloom underneath the baseboard with some facing one way and some the other, its a surprisingly easy mistake to make. So I would strongly advise others not to the remove the sticker unless you need to use those terminals. Cheers, Ed.
Used these on my 00 DCC layout. Loved them and realistic point movement. Going to use them on my N Gauge layout
Tip: use silicone washers under the mounting screws, this massively cuts down on noise transmitted to the baseboard
I have used and tried every point motor there is and have to say without doubt these are the best, I am now using the IP Digital with the Alpha central and along with the plastic jig that you can buy it is so quick and easy, I used to dread fitting and wiring points now it's one of my favourite bit's.
Lovely review and installation Simon! This is what I will be using for my future layout as well and this will be a great reference to start with - added to my favorites!
Thanks! Good luck with your layout 🚂
Thanks for sharing Simon. A nice step by step video which makes the process of installing look pretty straightforward. I like the smooth motion it gives to the point. I think you've helped me decide to take the plunge and go for these on my layout.
Hi Simon
Ive been using these for a while and find them to be easy to install and configure but I have had one that had an issue getting hot and working intermittently. I sent this to DCConcepts and they mended it and all under the lifetime guarantee, excellent service.
The one other thing I do is as its tricky to get at the motors under the boards I replaced the supplied screws with some small wood screws as the ones supplied won't self tap into my base boards.
Enjoyed the video and I can scrap mine now lol if you dont mind I'll link yours in my video.
cheers Paul
Hi Simon, one quick note (9.44 mins) - I needed to send back a new electrofrog Peco double slip for repair. After wiring in IP Cobalt motors and removing the springs to the points, the point blade became detached. Peco explained that the spring has a dual purpose to ensure contact BUT also to retain the blade. They replaced all blades and springs explaining that point motors should be powerful enough to work with the spring.PECO advice - DO NOT REMOVE THE SPRINGS
Hi Simon, very nice video once again. The DCCconcepts point motors are excellent, well worth paying a bit extra, as I mentioned to you a while ago, DCCconcepts are now operating from the UK, they are very helpful guys, as I have rung them for some help a few months ago. Looking forward to your next update video. Take care, regards Gary 😊
That was a well made vidio Simon, and a great tutorial for Cobalt point motors. Your under baseboard wiring is very neat and tidy,. I must look up those connectors.
All in all great job.
Good video explaining how to do the basic wiring, just purchased a box of 6 for my Horsell layout. I’ll be looking to sequence a pair so hopefully, will put up some footage myself of that process.
I am very interested to see how these Cobalt point motors fit out. You have explained it and demonstrated them very clearly. They seem like a well thought out solution. You may know I use Tortoise motors which are not DCC on board. I use Tortoise motors not just for points, they also operate my level crossing arms and the stops on my Faller road. So, I am very familiar with them and was curious about these Cobalt units. Thank you for the great explanation, Rob
Thanks for this nice straight forward video. 👍👍
Thanks. Yes I too use Cobalts. The Digital IP version is a big improvement on earlier versions.
Excellent demonstration Simon. I'll need to try one..................John.
Very educational video! Thanks Simon!! Regards Onno.
thanks, a very good demo.
Hi Simon very well illustrated. Colin
Hi Simon, that's helpful. Others have said these are noisy, but that appears to be because they are clamped firmly to a resonant baseboardand use two stage gearing to give a slower and perhaps more prototypical throw. Some isolating rubber washers, or the sticky pad, should deal with the noise. I was very interested to see the extra functionality, especially the interlocking as well as the frog connection. And I believe that they are sourced by a British company. BobUK.
Nice how to video I will have to try one thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Very nice, have subscribed, all the best Garry
Nice video.
Excellent video. Do you know if there’s anyway to wire in 2 aspect light signals to these to change when the points change?
Hi Simon Great, easy to follow video as always. I would be interested in your views on the surface mounted DCC Concepts Cobalt SS motors as an alternative to under the baseboard motors. Cheers Chris
Great video Simon thanks. I noticed you had the actuator arm to one side of the point rather than in the middle. Is that a conscious decision or simply a practical one? Ian
Hi mate, thx for the useful video. What size hole did you drill for the tie bar? Did you have to adjust how far the tie bar moves with an N gauge turnout?
This video was my real Christmas present . Thank You , for this video .
I am good at modelling , but not at wiring ...and had a few problems with my current switches .
So please , would it be compatible to use Digikeys decoder , Tillig switches ( powered frog) and a Cobalt motor ?
Have you tried programming them with the new Z21 app? When I'm stripping wires, I only take the insulation part way off, then twist as I take it off completely. Makes a neater job and prevents getting the ends of the strands sticking in your fingers. :-) I use Kato and Minitrix point motors. I'll connect them one day.
I would like to build a bookshelves layout using those point motors they look rather large if I built boards with a depth of 6” would that be enough? Thank you for your time
Hi Simon how big is your shed to accommodate your layout? Moving house soon and would like a decent layout in n gauge
Hello. I liked the video but am terrified of DCC despite having Railmaster with E Link that I cant quite figure as am autistic and cant always understand written instruction. But was curious as to what system you had on screen as I soak up information in visual form. Thanks, Tony.
Morning Simon, July 2022, just revising what I need to do to install my Cobalt iP Digitals in my N Gauge Code 55 points and noticed how you use the outside of the tie bar to change the point. Is this easier than trying the middle or is it personal preference? Thanks Peter
Hi Peter, on my points there was no hole in the middle so it had to one side or the other.
Hi Simon, in the middle of mine there is a small cut out rather like a notch hence my question. However, trying to think KISS (Keep it simple etc) I am feeling that for pure reliability the outside will be the way to go. Thank you for the inspiration modellers like you impart on others who are attempting to do what you have already done. Stay safe and once again thank you. The devil is in the detail that one can see after several watches. 👏👏👍👍
Although new at this I find the Wago connectors save even any crimping plus easy to disconnect wiring if needed. I would really like to know an easy way to get the piano wire from the motor through the little hole in the point whist grovelling under the layout often half upside down and cursing like mad!
Thanks Simon, have you used these motors on a Peco Code 100 SLE-99 Threeway point? As it requires two motors, and would appear a bit tight for space between the tie bars
I haven't done this myself but I spoke to DCC concepts a couple of days ago about this. They say that you can easily do this by mounting the motors with the throw arms facing each other. I have measured it up with a 3 way point off the layout and it looks like there is plenty of room. If in doubt call DCC Concepts on 01729 821080 - they are very helpful.
Just caught up with this great video. Just some questions as I am thinking of using these for my small layout. Are they easy to position so the wire throws the point all the way? Will they stop when the switch blade reaches the stock rail or must you adjust the throw wire?
Thanks Dave
DCC concepts sell a guide which makes it as easy and quick as opening a pack of crisps, I managed to fit and wire 7 of these in an hour it used to take that for one.
Thanks Rob I will check it out. Mind you takes me half an hour to open a pack of crisps sometimes 🙄
After using the IP digital, im finding it very hard to recommend any other brand, these motors are exceptional
I use Cobalt analogue with their smoothed 12v system if I can use one I bought by mistake by connecting to DCC and using an analogue switch this will be good(especially for my wallet)
The only criticism I have on these motors is they placed the fixing holes inside the plastic frame instead of flanges like they did on the side (what are they for? mounting to a vertical face?). This makes for very difficult drilling of pilot holes vertical into the board (as per your video where the drill chuck fouls on the motor casing) which is important as the supplied screws do not have very sharp self tapping threads so its a real challenge (I bought better screws). Needs a design review IMHO
I find not so easy when under baseboard trying to feed the throw bar into the point. Wonder why DCC concepts have been out of stock of these motors but other dealers are getting fresh stocks in. Just purchased another 12 ip's fresh in (July 2020). But none available from DCC concepts, strange.
Another question , I have z21 , and a limited knowledge . Now, what is in between the Z21 and a Cobalt motor , that I would have to obtain ?
You don't need anything else, just hook the motor up to your DCC BUS and depending on whether you're using a hand controller or the Z21 App, programme them accordingly. Simon has done a video on how to do this using the z21 and the App.
@@nellyracer22 Thank you .
How do you deactivate centering with hornby select
the centering codes are 197-199 but I think the Select only goes up to 99 so I don't think its possible unfortunately .
Cobalt is a RADIOACTIVE material. If this product includes cobalt magnets imported from the USA then it is illegal in Britain because of the radioactivity level. U.S laws are lax by comparison.
No radioactive magnets have been harmed in the making of Cobalt point motors.
DCC a wonderful concept still unfortunately fundamentally flawed. As DCC was invented by an Electrical Engineer in the early 1980's, who had no understanding of railways. He simply created a commercially attractive solution to the major area of resistance preventing model railways becoming a mainstream hobby - i.e the electronics involved.
As a result NO provision was made for the most important aspect of real railways, which is the physical inter-action between train movement and signalling. Quite the contrary. DCC has no option but to replace the traditional 12v DC in the rails, with 16v AC, as only AC (Alternating Current) can carry messages between the controller and the train or accessory "chips". In other words you can now move numerous trains simultaneously in any direction you like and even have head on crashes, which goes against the most fundamental safety rules of the real railway. 12v DC wired layouts won't allow head on crashes simply because DC ensures all locomotives go in the same direction, so it does at least start by complying with one of the most important real life safety rules - to prevent head on crashes.
There are a number of manufacturers who provide DCC accessory chips that will operate signals. But it is impossible for these "signal controlling chips" to actually operate the signals in a real life manner. Why? Because these "signal controlling chips" cannot know what track layout you have, or detect the presence of trains in relation to the position of ALL the relevant signals. Signals in real life are inter-linked either mechanically (semaphore signals) or electrically (colour light signals). Why?. Because train drivers need warning signals usually a mile or so in advance of any red, or it will be impossible to stop a train in time.
This problem of inter-facing the trains to the signals in a realistic manner using a Digital system, was soon recognised. But the solution is that computers are now needed along with a comprehensive understanding of both electronics, and real life signalling. This of course defeats the simplicity of DCC and increases the costs still further. It should be added that commercial DCC is itself between 100% and 300% more expensive than traditional 12v DC wiring methods.
Realistically the only way to construct a true model railway as opposed to a toy train set, is to have signalling that works in a real life manner. The only way to do this is to have real life type "track circuits" which provide the inter-face between train and signals. The only way to do all this cheaply is to use a 12v DC system. As 12v DC has the advantage due to its electrical nature of accommodating two separate supplies in the rails (one to move the trains and the other for the track circuits) without creating an electrical short circuit !
The bottom line therefore is that while DCC may seem attractive (although more expensive) it simply prevents a recreation of a real railway in miniature due to its serious technical short comings.
Another misnomer is that the word "Analogue" implies only one alternative. This is of course nonsense. One of the main advantages of using 12v DC is that you can choose from an infinite number of methods to wire your own layout, and tailor the wiring to suit the peculiarities of your layout. Unlike DCC which due to its international standardisation, is locked in and inflexible stone !!!
Are you related to Tony Wright?