One of my biggest reasons for looking for a newly made sword over a antique is that if I ruin a new one though poor use or neglect from lack of knowing something I'm not damaging a historical artifact.
In my case it would be because my wife has certain superstitions regarding antiques. Let's just say that she's watched one paranormal investigation show too many and is worried about spirits being potentially attached to an item. This is just regular antiques in general, like antique furniture. She'd probably freak out if I told her I bough an antique military saber that may not only have been with someone on campaign, but might have been used to kill someone.
@@Riceball01 It´s not battleshapen then. If you find a sword that old and nice. It has probobly never been issued. It would be less of a risk of anyone geting attach to a troopers sword then a table.
Absolutely agree, I once butchered an original WW1 German bayonet that I purchased years ago for only about £45, so wanted to change the shape of the blade. Ended in the bin! They are worth a lot more now as they have become more and more scarce. It still bothers me greatly to this day, destroying a small piece of history through acting like an imbecile. Kind of like what’s happened in Bristol I suppose!
Josh tbf most swords rhat have lasted 200 years are pretty sturdy! Though i understand your apprehension. I usually feel safe using mine for anything less that hard testing.
As some other commenters have said, it's not about cost. It's that I would feel wrong about cutting with an antique, and be afraid of generally practising with it. I think what most people are looking for is: Who makes the best/most accurate sword blade (ie with the proper distal taper etc) that I can do cutting practice with that will behave the same as a historical sword.
The funniest thing is seeing people's reaction to when they hold a real antique. Best reaction is usually to my 1845 infantry officers sword with a non regulation blade that is just a delight to hold and swing and is usually accompanied by an audible "whoa" from the wielder upon picking it up.
In light of the D&D essentials kit lying on the shelf, I have taken it upon myself to find the class played by sir Mat. It is a specialist psionic knight known as the 'contextual master'. These psions summon a contextual weapon that assumes the most suited form for their current combat (it always does piercing damage). At first level (and every four levels after first) they must choose both a bane and a boon from the contextual master bane/boon list. The exception to this is at first level where they must choose the bane "context is king". This bane forces the contextual master to provide context and/or correction to any conversation they are a part of, irrespective of the potential repercussions! Some common banes for the contextual master are: a) Deep Lore: The irresistible desire to use the word 'penetration' whenever possible. b) Curved Swords: A dire compulsion to collect any cutlass they can get their hands on. c) Flimsy Wrath: Bearing a strong urge to initiate violence at the sight of a spadroon. Some common boons for the contextual master include: a) Just the Tip: Trained to avoid over-penetration the contextual master adds any bonus-to-hit that exceeds the targets AC to their weapon damage (assuming they wield a contextual blade). b) Cutting Context: The contextual master may use the dire powers of context in combat. Any time the contextual master can accurately provide context appropriate criticism of a foes choice of armament/armor they may spend a power point to give said foe disadvantage on their next attack. c) Critical Context: Whenever a contextual master successfully uses the boon 'Cutting Context' they may spend 2 additional power points to consume the foes shame (removing their disadvantage) and gain a +1 to their contextual blades critical threat range. This bonus can stack no more than 2/4/6 times at levels 1/8/15 this bonus lasts until the end of said combat.
I really hoped when I saw the title that someone, like Dynasty Forge or Albion, had finally made a quality replica sabre that met Matts standards. Oh, well.
yeaaaaaaaaaaah but, I'd feel wrong swinging around an antique! I think that's what a lot of peoples issue with it would be. I mean for yourself, you handle hundreds so they're not this "rare mystical" item to you but for us common folk, tis but a dream m'lord
As a re enactor I can testify how hard it is to get a sword made with the exact measurements and weigths as you requested, even after giving all the historical measurements you can imagine it's very rare if not imposible to get that exact item.
I think we could start to see this dearth of quality saber and military sword replicas change fairly soon. Just from the exposure alone, that such sword types are getting from experts such as Matt here, I just feel that it is only a matter of time(and if civilization survives 2020, that is!) before we start to see the emergence of well made saber reproductions. I've always said that if a maker were ever to take Albion's overall model and just apply it to the making of sabers, they would be a huge success!
The problem is- how much, then, could they sell them for? People want really accurate Medieval style swords, and are willing to pay accordingly. For a replica Napoleonic sword, the price point is such that they would say "Why pay a grand for a replica when for little more I can get the real McCoy? (Or Gill, or Woolley, or Klingenthal-)"
@@althesmith , That is a very good point. I know Matt mentions this all the time, but I hadn't really factored it into my Albion model scenario. There are, however, two factors that I think could negate the cost-effectiveness of simply buying an original. The first is the most obvious: "backyard cutters"(of which I am not one!😁). One would think that, at least for the most part, these people would want a sword that they can swing around, and cut various targets without having to worry about damaging it. I can certainly say that if I owned an original 1796 British Light Cavalry Sabre from, say, 1805, from the works of Henry Osborne, I would NEVER cut anything with it! That's not to say that it couldn't handle it just fine, but I just would not want to take the chance of altering something that managed to survive for so long. In fact, even though I'm sure that my Albion medieval sword would handle practice cutting with no problems, I still treat it as a "wall hanger". Also, I especially wouldn't want to have to alter an antique sword's edge by sharpening it for the purposes of cutting. The other factor is that I think as time goes on, these antique swords are going to become increasingly rare and, consequently, more expensive. Just 20 years ago, you could find 1796s all over the place! They were the proverbial "dime a dozen" until really not very long ago. After the prices for antiques continue to go up for so long, the "Albion sabers" will seem like a much more viable alternative than they do now.
@@althesmith Conversely, can I get an antique, without seeing it and not really being able to judge quality, shipped from a source in the US for casual whacking of stuff and wall-hanging? In that case, the blade "authenticity," thus handiness, matters more than perhaps the hilt final fit and finish. Get me a properly constructed, issue functional, Marine NCO Saber replica and i'd go 5-7 bills.
Al M tbh, i can get that for victorian swords, which are usually very competitively priced, but for original napoleonic swords, i got to say, originals might just be rare enough so that replicas could compete in the price department.
@@andreweden9405 Also with enough skill a modern sword could be superior to an antique. As said in the video modern metallurgy is superior. But also modern precision production methods if applied could produce superior swords, with CADCAM. Imagine if swords had to be produced for _actual combat_ in the modern age? [The Immortals go mainstream or that gunpowder suppression field gets invented]. A modern factory turning out swords with the same effort as say high performance sports cars. Every Nissan GT-R comes with a Katana for duels if the quarter mile doesn't satisfy it. Bugatti makes longswords in the same facilities as the Veyron. Or Lockheed Martin start a production line for combat swords (after spending 15 years developing the ideal sword design…).
Good advice. An analogy: when you work for a bank, you will first be introduced to the actual currency and get you used to it before introducing you to counterfeits.
Any chance that Wilkinson is going up for sale as well? Love your videos Matt, been watching for a few years now, and I'm looking forward to buying a sword off your site in the future if something new pops up that strikes my interest.
Excellent-thanks, Matt. Do you have, or would you recommend, a guide to restoring antique swords? Something that details trustworthy products and reliable techniques.
Haha. I'm one of those people that asked...I also didn't listen... I can assure anyone reading this, the cold steel 1796 LCS sucks. Save up the extra for an antique or one from a competent maker...
Jordan Williams in the US grinds CS1796s to make them into reasonable 1796LCSs. I bought a real 1796LCS and shipped it for 1p more than a CS1796 costs in the UK not including postage.
@Tanngnost67 From experience: the blade isn't quite as wide and the distal taper is less complex. Also the handle was chunkier and it weighed about 100g more. The distal taper on a CS 1796 LCS is a simple angle from the base to the foible, which is about 2mm wide rather than 1mm on an original. The original tapers in more of a curve. The reality is though that a CS blade is pretty good, it's strong and will stand up to use, your antique won't. You're just not getting an exact replica.
Fantastic video as always! Question for you if you have time: Do you think military sword collecting in general in more common in the UK? I live in the US and have hardly ever ran into anyone else who had a inquisitive and genuine love for historical swords. Seems like we have a much more abundant firearm culture here (I believe) and blades fall by the wayside (I myself am a fan of both, guess you could call it holistic military history) BTW - I bought a 1917 US ColdSteel cutlass a few years back, and quite like it, yes, I know a WWI era cutlass won't be nearly as elaborate or well made as a 1813 Prussian saber - But that said, even though a reproduction is a lower quality, would it be better to practice and "abuse" the replica VS the original (even if it is crappy). My train of thought here also goes back to military firearms, as I would always prefer to save up and get a reproduction to shoot and take out VS a 150 year old antique (which I would much rather have! but it would kill me if I damaged it - call me over protective ha)
I can understand your desire to avoid naming names in that there's "endorsement" issues (and also leaving out people who are good would also not be right), but you mentioned at 13:39 one who'd passed away - could you name him/tell us a bit about him?
Me: I want a good military-grade weapon from the industrial era, presumably a replica because antiques would surely be more expensive. Easton: Buy an antique. I sell many. You're welcome.
Not just that, but antiques degrade over time, an antique sword now is nowhere near as durable as the same sword was a century ago, so if you actually want to use it, an antique is a terrible idea
There was one really good one a couple of years back - Windlass made a copy of the US Army 1860 light saber, as produced in 1906 with steel for the three bar hilt. They were commissioned by a Cavalry Association here in the states and they got it right. The Association made sure that it was a good replica that is the same as the originals that have become quite expensive due to the ACW link. That said, the US 1860 is hardly the best of the military era. I got mine for $125 which is cheaper than any of the antiques I have looked at. But that is the classic example of the "exception that proves the rule".
Matt now you got me curious, you have to do a video on the best makers out there. Off the top of my head I can think of Gael fabre, the Sulowski brothers, Fabrice Cognot, Tod, Paul Binns, and Maciej Kopciuch.
Also on another note aside from not wanting to mess up an antique.. if I'm going to play with it then I'd rather have the better metallurgy on my side... Don't get me wrong I'm not dissing antiques I'm just saying they're antiques for a reason.. also, I don't know any custom bladesmiths that would make replicas for a reasonable price at most everyday people could afford that are decently made and usable.. not counting basic hunting knives and things like that.
Than you very much. Could you please do a beginner buyers guide for antiques? What to pay attention to, possible issues etc? I'm interested in buying a sword and indeed the antiques seem more reasonable than replicas.
I've been dying for a yataghan sword bayonet. Was juggling between reproduction, but yesterday bought an original for a steal. Heavy patina and missing the sheath. 👍 Definitely not a pro by any means but I've restored a few rusted out bayonets. Always a treat.
When you restore them you can feel the Steel. It's hardness, texture, even odor based on smithing practices and ore plus the smelting of those ores. I found many differences in Antique Japanese Swords. Besides some work on more common models in the past.
Next step for me is a forge ..There are a lot of forged in fire veterans here in Washington that have said that should be my next step ..I've been studying the process of forging for about 2 years whilst restoring antiques ..
Matt, I have a penchant for sabers that were broken in service. Probably from some western movie I saw. Something around 12”-14” blade length or even longer. Do you ever come across that sort of thing? I found a couple (missed one 🤬🤬🤬)
Thank you for your insight. In addition i think antique swords are litteraly heralds of history. I would like to follow your advice but i am from France : do you sell outside of UK, or do you recommend a french reseller of antique swords ?
What about acquiring modern patterns of sabres? As I understand British, Australian and Canadian armies still have military sabres if only for honour guard/ceremonial purposes. Or would those only be accessible by the military?
Very good video. Are there any Japanese arms replica makers within EU? I'm looking for older type of Japanese arms (pre-katana) so I'm not sure how many antiques would I find.
From what i read on some forume "Empire Costumes" is a company making napoleonic era swords reproductions. At least some of them seem to have very good distal taper, and come for a reasonable cost (never seen one in person tho). an example: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/50991/empire-costume-french-light-cavalry
An issue is the "sole authorship" bugbear. The originals were made by several different craftsmen who literally did nothing else but forge, or grind, or polish, or make hilt fittings- for years- and consequently got very good at it to the point, pardon the pun, that a chap finishing the fuller on a wheel could probably pinch the blade between his fingertips and tell if he was getting close to as far as he wanted to go.
I think a good replica (Emphasis on good) is often more valuable for understanding certain aspects of history than an antique. With a replica you can use it like an everyday item, you don't have to worry about damaging an irreplaceable artifact, if you need to you can have another one made. Depending on the age of the antique and if it is made of perishable materials, a replica can also be made to give you a complete 'as new' item, and will age with your own use and give a more accurate representation of what it is to care for a it as a usage item rather than an artifact to be restored or preserved. An antique gives you hard data on history, a replica gives you a more practical sense of how these items would be used. PS. I'm not a sword guy, so my perspective comes only from a general interest in history. Therefore I don't know how well it applies to swords specifically.
What about companies that are still making Military Swords for current militaries? Like William Scully in Canada, who make modern versions of Commonwealth Pattern and Issue swords. Or the equivilant in the UK?
Can confirm, have tried. Ended up getting antiques in the end. Both Cold Steel and Universal swords are a bust. They are clunky compared to the original and once you see them up close they look like a bootleg version. There’s plenty of makers doing decent medieval/renaissance swords, but no such love for sabres. Sucks because I’d really like to use them for cutting but I just can’t bring myself to do it with an antique.
Hello, Matt! I'm wondering if you ever heard of Access Heritage (www.militaryheritage.com/index.html), another company that makes replica swords. I would like to hear your opinion on whether or not they're good only for parade swords or ones that can actually be used (ie. for test cutting, or reenacting). I never bought a sword before but because this one ships to my home country Canada I'm wondering if this might be okay for a beginner.
Interesting topic....I have a Cold Steel 1917 Cutlass and a Dutch Klewang, after which I understand the U.S. Navy modeled the 1917 Cutlass. Mine is a WWII "bringback" and is in very good shape. The difference between the two is incredible. On first inspection the swords appear to be very similar, but the Cold Steel cutlass handles like a baseball bat in comparison with the Klewang. If the balloon should ever go up and I find myself in need of a sword, I'll be using the Klewang. It's old but very lively.....I also have an unused Klewang blade that one of these days I'm going to provide with a guard and grip, then I'll have one for each hand- hey ho!
Take the replica, get a good small bastard file and start draw filing till you have the distal taper of the original. After that start with about 100 grit sandpaper and sand out the file marks. Keep going with finer grits till you've polished the blade to a mirror, that may take a piece of leather impregnated with jewellers compound. If you want to age it a bit, get a couple of tomatoes and smear the juice on the blade and wait overnight. This only works for carbon steel, not stainless.
Take the replica, get a good small bastard file and start draw filing till you have the distal taper of the original. After that start with about 100 grit sandpaper and sand out the file marks. Keep going with finer grits till you've polished the blade to a mirror, that may take a piece of leather impregnated with jewellers compound. If you want to age it a bit, get a couple of tomatoes and smear the juice on the blade and wait overnight. This only works for carbon steel, not stainless.
I bought a replica falcata from Windlass Steelworks recently. I was somewhat disappointed by the result. The steel quality and construction quality were there, but the blade had no distal taper and was 30-50% heavier than authentic falcatas. It can certainly chop well, but after reading about historical falcatas some more, I was saddened to realize my cleaver handles nothing like them. Even my tomahawk handles significantly better. Also, the edge cross section was quite terrible.
Matt, I have discovered after a bit of googling this evening that Wilkinson no longer make swords for the military, but a company called Pooley has taken over. How do you rate the quality of these swords - are they actually made to the same standards of swords in the late C19 where their owners still thought they might have to use them in anger? I served in as an infantry officer in the 80s and 90s and on the very rare occasions I need to to carry a sword I drew one from the armoury or mess silver store or wherever it was we had a small stockpile without giving it a moment's thought - but I think they were mostly made by Wilkinson. The blades were nickel plated, I think. Were these (or the 1873 E Thurkle sword I was subsequently given) anything more than ceremonial "replicas" themselves?
Thurkle is old enough they would have been combat swords. Wilkinson... depends on the age. Pooley, just no. They're a bunch of charlatans who buy sword replicas from India, dip it in an etch tank and add a zero to the pricetag.
These guys make everything in the catalogue to the original drawings and use a MUCH more stringent testing criteria. If you convert rubles to pounds these are very affordable. All swords are used in chopping cutting competitions regularly without complaints (choping metal pipes, wood blocks, 50mm sticks and pig heads. Even with their ultra light (360gram shashkas) There are many videos on youtube of that
sooo… say, hypothetically, can antique military sabers be "restored" to usable "field-ready" condition? Just in case someone was … filling out their kit for some reason.
He has designed a ligne of practice sabers in collaboration with Kvetun armoury. From what I've heard, they're quite nice! kvetun-armoury.com/saber/easton-sabre-mark-iii.html
It is rather like saying can you make a modern replica of an Elwell slasher or bill hook. For sure you can stamp out something and even make it out of fancy steel, but will it be as effective and useful as an original? I doubt it. I like to use antique tools in the way you like antique swords.
Most of the older knife and bladesmiths of Solingen in germany, wilkinson may still but they mostly do shaving razors. Windlass steel crafts made kukris for the government of india a few decades ago, that was their main deal, now they make usable mimics of pretty much every weapon. Some groups make display swords when they formerly made weapons. I forget the name, but I think the company that made combat swords for the US navy is still actively doing so, but their goods now are basically toys.
Why wouldn't they cost more? Working from flat bar stock is why these blades handle like bars. Distal taper requires starting with thicker stock to get a wider base and grinding away more material to get the correct dimensions. If they're forging, you can hammer out the taper from a shorter length of thicker stock, but that requires more skill and more time - both of which are more expensive than the materials. There's no way to manufacture a more complex shape without adding to the cost.
Where does one get shaggreen? I know some commercial fishermen, but most won't take a shark or ray. and then, while I do tan my own leather, I do a brain tan. Where would I find the information to learn how to make shaggreen out of shark skin. I love eating shark, but I'm not sure how to get a shark for my freezer and sword hilts.
1. There are still sabers used by certain units. This would mean, someone still should be able to produce at least the current patterns, or do they have so much surplus in stock? 2. I am aware that 200 years ago standardisation was on a different level, but shouldn't a certified military pattern have at least some sort of blueprints and a material list to work with?
WKC Solingen based in germany still manufactures sabres though I believe most of them are decorative or for parades. I wonder if they're any good. Oh, and you really have to take a look considering how many sabres they make with stianless steel. I wonder if Wilkinson still has some production up somewhere.
Another way to get incredibly familiar with a sword, knife, or firearm is to create a 3D model of it using measurements taken by yourself. You'll very quickly understand why each part is shaped the way it is, how they fit together, and what they do.
I’ve got one of those... a pre-numbered Wilkinson’s RN sword, which I carried as a parade sword in the 80’s. Bloody heavy compared to the modern flimsy things!
That's because modern military swords are designed for ceremonial use only. I don't think that there's a military in the world that still considers and isues swords as weapons so there's no need for them to be made to the same weight as they used to be.
@@Kageitenshi mine is actually a Belgian M1830, not a pallasch as it doesn't have the hatchet point, it's spearpointed. Pretty much identical except for stamps to the (IIRC) AN XI and AN XIII cuirassier estocs used by Napoleon's Grand Armee. Just being a Belgian M1830 means I paid a third of what a First Empire one would have cost in good nick with the scabbard as mine is.
If I'm actually going to play around with a sword I'd rather buy a modern reproductions so I don't mess up an antique. Some modern reproductions are just fine and some are clunky. When it comes to medieval-style sort of feel like it's easier going about a reproduction that's reasonably priced that isn't too clunky that is still pretty good quality.
Shame there’s no decent modern replicas. I’ve always had a hankering to make a copy of Nasir’s swords from Robin of Sherwood - (still waiting on that video Matt, but I’m sure you wouldn’t be kind!) - which I think were made from a pair of 18th century British Customs Officer swords. I wouldn’t want to desecrate an antique to fulfil my childhood fantasy tho!
Strangely enough, go browse Etsy. There are good replicas and sparring shashkas. I'm probably going to order myself a sparring shashka as they're less than a hundred quid.
This is my conundrum. I want to put good historic models on stage, but I am hesitant to put antique into combat(because I don't know the steel), but the replicas have terrible balance and handling.
I have a sword that was given to me when I was a child and can't find any info on it other than it's a Portuguese Cavalry type design. Can you help me identify it and tell me if it's authentic and possibly valuable? I can send pictures of it and tell you more about it if you have a way for us to connect. There is an inscription on it, "VIVA DONA MARIA I" if that helps.
I think the question stems from an ordinary person's relationship to antique objects: Even though the object might be cheap, it's valuable due to it's age and people (at least I) won't thus feel comfortable swinging it around like they would with a reproduction. I take it in your opinion it's acceptable to use antique swords in cutting practise, then?
Hello Matt! Since you haven't listed the company called Crisp and Sons (www.crisp-and-sons.com/aboutus.htm) I would like to ask your opinion about them, their craft and swords. Though their sortiment of swords (i.e. types and eras) is not as diverse as of the companies you mentioned, but I'm curious whether you consider them to be up to the standard discussed in this video (and to your golden rules) and to the standard that they claim. I'm not expecting you to either badmouth the company, nor make free advertisement for them, I'm just curious whether you would advise further looking into their products in the context of this video. Perhaps people are also weary of buying even cheaper, lower quality antique swords, because they want them to be practice swords, backyard cutters and all-around beaters as well: although antiques in good condition are easy to find, people may be hesitant to use them so heavily as they would use a replica sword, whilst they might perceive antiques in worse condition as inherently structurally unreliable for that same intended use. Greetings from Hungary!
Their swords, from what I have seen, are good quality parade swords. However, they are not (as far as I'm aware) made to be used and they are more expensive than antiques of similar patterns.
Personally I'd go to Silkfencing for a good Polish sabre. I've got fed up with Regenyeis as they get chewed up far too easily. They seem both softer and more prone to breakage than a good number of competing brands.
@@Brigadier9 practiced some Bolognese fencing with a Danelli sidesword against Regenyei ones and theirs got quite a bit bigger dents out of it. From what I heard from the fencing club members was that they had been having trouble with the Regenyeis' tips breaking and the edge dings can get sharp and chip due to work hardening. When I got a Regenyei custom longsword and asked if they could customize it further, their reply was "sorry, we currently can't" that they've been quite bogged down with lots of orders. Makes me think they've been slacking with quality assurance.
@@Kageitenshi I'm assuming if you had a Danelli (insert much envy here) you're in Europe, possibly the UK. I have a completely custom longsword that Kvetun made for me at a price IIRC of €350, far cheaper than Regenyei. I fecking love it. 40 inch Type XII blade, wheel pommel, the grip is nicely shaped, much cut, much stab, all foes kneel before me.
Matt, If making replicas with the proper amount of distal taper is not that much more expensive than current practice but would result in vastly superior product, why do you think that the modern mass cutleries don't do it?
One of my biggest reasons for looking for a newly made sword over a antique is that if I ruin a new one though poor use or neglect from lack of knowing something I'm not damaging a historical artifact.
In my case it would be because my wife has certain superstitions regarding antiques. Let's just say that she's watched one paranormal investigation show too many and is worried about spirits being potentially attached to an item. This is just regular antiques in general, like antique furniture. She'd probably freak out if I told her I bough an antique military saber that may not only have been with someone on campaign, but might have been used to kill someone.
@@Riceball01 It´s not battleshapen then. If you find a sword that old and nice. It has probobly never been issued. It would be less of a risk of anyone geting attach to a troopers sword then a table.
Same here! Cheers
Absolutely agree, I once butchered an original WW1 German bayonet that I purchased years ago for only about £45, so wanted to change the shape of the blade. Ended in the bin! They are worth a lot more now as they have become more and more scarce. It still bothers me greatly to this day, destroying a small piece of history through acting like an imbecile. Kind of like what’s happened in Bristol I suppose!
Josh tbf most swords rhat have lasted 200 years are pretty sturdy! Though i understand your apprehension. I usually feel safe using mine for anything less that hard testing.
As some other commenters have said, it's not about cost. It's that I would feel wrong about cutting with an antique, and be afraid of generally practising with it. I think what most people are looking for is: Who makes the best/most accurate sword blade (ie with the proper distal taper etc) that I can do cutting practice with that will behave the same as a historical sword.
The funniest thing is seeing people's reaction to when they hold a real antique. Best reaction is usually to my 1845 infantry officers sword with a non regulation blade that is just a delight to hold and swing and is usually accompanied by an audible "whoa" from the wielder upon picking it up.
In light of the D&D essentials kit lying on the shelf, I have taken it upon myself to find the class played by sir Mat. It is a specialist psionic knight known as the 'contextual master'. These psions summon a contextual weapon that assumes the most suited form for their current combat (it always does piercing damage).
At first level (and every four levels after first) they must choose both a bane and a boon from the contextual master bane/boon list. The exception to this is at first level where they must choose the bane "context is king". This bane forces the contextual master to provide context and/or correction to any conversation they are a part of, irrespective of the potential repercussions! Some common banes for the contextual master are:
a) Deep Lore: The irresistible desire to use the word 'penetration' whenever possible.
b) Curved Swords: A dire compulsion to collect any cutlass they can get their hands on.
c) Flimsy Wrath: Bearing a strong urge to initiate violence at the sight of a spadroon.
Some common boons for the contextual master include:
a) Just the Tip: Trained to avoid over-penetration the contextual master adds any bonus-to-hit that exceeds the targets AC to their weapon damage (assuming they wield a contextual blade).
b) Cutting Context: The contextual master may use the dire powers of context in combat. Any time the contextual master can accurately provide context appropriate criticism of a foes choice of armament/armor they may spend a power point to give said foe disadvantage on their next attack.
c) Critical Context: Whenever a contextual master successfully uses the boon 'Cutting Context' they may spend 2 additional power points to consume the foes shame (removing their disadvantage) and gain a +1 to their contextual blades critical threat range. This bonus can stack no more than 2/4/6 times at levels 1/8/15 this bonus lasts until the end of said combat.
Lmfao! Thank you
comment made my morning
I really hoped when I saw the title that someone, like Dynasty Forge or Albion, had finally made a quality replica sabre that met Matts standards. Oh, well.
Is that a Dungeons & Dragons Essentials Kit in the background???
It is!
@@scholagladiatoria But it is still in its plastic wrapping, isn't it? How sad :D
@@scholagladiatoria There is A dynasty forge saber but I don't know if its any good
D&D fans of scholagladiatoria unite!!
@@ondrejbrezina4053 now if we could only get him to DM a game. Lol!
yeaaaaaaaaaaah but, I'd feel wrong swinging around an antique! I think that's what a lot of peoples issue with it would be. I mean for yourself, you handle hundreds so they're not this "rare mystical" item to you but for us common folk, tis but a dream m'lord
I'm not about to cut bottles with an antique. I might not even be happy with using one for sparring drills.
I use antique tools and firearms, why should swords be any different? As long as you take care of something it can still serve it’s intended purpose.
@@barryallenporter8127 because they’re old and awesome. Don’t wanna mess it up on some noobs face
As a re enactor I can testify how hard it is to get a sword made with the exact measurements and weigths as you requested, even after giving all the historical measurements you can imagine it's very rare if not imposible to get that exact item.
I think we could start to see this dearth of quality saber and military sword replicas change fairly soon. Just from the exposure alone, that such sword types are getting from experts such as Matt here, I just feel that it is only a matter of time(and if civilization survives 2020, that is!) before we start to see the emergence of well made saber reproductions. I've always said that if a maker were ever to take Albion's overall model and just apply it to the making of sabers, they would be a huge success!
The problem is- how much, then, could they sell them for? People want really accurate Medieval style swords, and are willing to pay accordingly. For a replica Napoleonic sword, the price point is such that they would say "Why pay a grand for a replica when for little more I can get the real McCoy? (Or Gill, or Woolley, or Klingenthal-)"
@@althesmith , That is a very good point. I know Matt mentions this all the time, but I hadn't really factored it into my Albion model scenario. There are, however, two factors that I think could negate the cost-effectiveness of simply buying an original. The first is the most obvious: "backyard cutters"(of which I am not one!😁). One would think that, at least for the most part, these people would want a sword that they can swing around, and cut various targets without having to worry about damaging it. I can certainly say that if I owned an original 1796 British Light Cavalry Sabre from, say, 1805, from the works of Henry Osborne, I would NEVER cut anything with it! That's not to say that it couldn't handle it just fine, but I just would not want to take the chance of altering something that managed to survive for so long. In fact, even though I'm sure that my Albion medieval sword would handle practice cutting with no problems, I still treat it as a "wall hanger". Also, I especially wouldn't want to have to alter an antique sword's edge by sharpening it for the purposes of cutting.
The other factor is that I think as time goes on, these antique swords are going to become increasingly rare and, consequently, more expensive. Just 20 years ago, you could find 1796s all over the place! They were the proverbial "dime a dozen" until really not very long ago. After the prices for antiques continue to go up for so long, the "Albion sabers" will seem like a much more viable alternative than they do now.
@@althesmith Conversely, can I get an antique, without seeing it and not really being able to judge quality, shipped from a source in the US for casual whacking of stuff and wall-hanging? In that case, the blade "authenticity," thus handiness, matters more than perhaps the hilt final fit and finish. Get me a properly constructed, issue functional, Marine NCO Saber replica and i'd go 5-7 bills.
Al M tbh, i can get that for victorian swords, which are usually very competitively priced, but for original napoleonic swords, i got to say, originals might just be rare enough so that replicas could compete in the price department.
@@andreweden9405 Also with enough skill a modern sword could be superior to an antique.
As said in the video modern metallurgy is superior.
But also modern precision production methods if applied could produce superior swords, with CADCAM.
Imagine if swords had to be produced for _actual combat_ in the modern age?
[The Immortals go mainstream or that gunpowder suppression field gets invented].
A modern factory turning out swords with the same effort as say high performance sports cars.
Every Nissan GT-R comes with a Katana for duels if the quarter mile doesn't satisfy it.
Bugatti makes longswords in the same facilities as the Veyron.
Or Lockheed Martin start a production line for combat swords (after spending 15 years developing the ideal sword design…).
Showing your workshop on camera is a sign of a brave man.
Great! It's nice to see you like to share the things you know so openly wish more peopl were like you.
Dnd Essentials Kit in the background! Nice.
Good advice. An analogy: when you work for a bank, you will first be introduced to the actual currency and get you used to it before introducing you to counterfeits.
Great tips! Thank you.
Speaking of buying antiques.. I kind've want the one Matt is holding for the majority of the video here. It's lovely.
Great inf, thanks for sharing!
Any chance that Wilkinson is going up for sale as well? Love your videos Matt, been watching for a few years now, and I'm looking forward to buying a sword off your site in the future if something new pops up that strikes my interest.
Excellent-thanks, Matt. Do you have, or would you recommend, a guide to restoring antique swords? Something that details trustworthy products and reliable techniques.
Haha. I'm one of those people that asked...I also didn't listen... I can assure anyone reading this, the cold steel 1796 LCS sucks. Save up the extra for an antique or one from a competent maker...
Think it's possible to grind down a CS sabre to a reasonable distal taper?
It's just the thing for butchering an ox, the blade is a perfect cleaver.
Jordan Williams in the US grinds CS1796s to make them into reasonable 1796LCSs.
I bought a real 1796LCS and shipped it for 1p more than a CS1796 costs in the UK not including postage.
@Tanngnost67 From experience: the blade isn't quite as wide and the distal taper is less complex. Also the handle was chunkier and it weighed about 100g more.
The distal taper on a CS 1796 LCS is a simple angle from the base to the foible, which is about 2mm wide rather than 1mm on an original. The original tapers in more of a curve.
The reality is though that a CS blade is pretty good, it's strong and will stand up to use, your antique won't. You're just not getting an exact replica.
Fantastic video as always!
Question for you if you have time: Do you think military sword collecting in general in more common in the UK? I live in the US and have hardly ever ran into anyone else who had a inquisitive and genuine love for historical swords. Seems like we have a much more abundant firearm culture here (I believe) and blades fall by the wayside (I myself am a fan of both, guess you could call it holistic military history)
BTW - I bought a 1917 US ColdSteel cutlass a few years back, and quite like it, yes, I know a WWI era cutlass won't be nearly as elaborate or well made as a 1813 Prussian saber - But that said, even though a reproduction is a lower quality, would it be better to practice and "abuse" the replica VS the original (even if it is crappy). My train of thought here also goes back to military firearms, as I would always prefer to save up and get a reproduction to shoot and take out VS a 150 year old antique (which I would much rather have! but it would kill me if I damaged it - call me over protective ha)
I can understand your desire to avoid naming names in that there's "endorsement" issues (and also leaving out people who are good would also not be right), but you mentioned at 13:39 one who'd passed away - could you name him/tell us a bit about him?
Good to see the D&D Essential Kit on your shelve.
Me: I want a good military-grade weapon from the industrial era, presumably a replica because antiques would surely be more expensive.
Easton: Buy an antique. I sell many. You're welcome.
Well it is his business
Not just that, but antiques degrade over time, an antique sword now is nowhere near as durable as the same sword was a century ago, so if you actually want to use it, an antique is a terrible idea
I love your sword collection. 😆
There was one really good one a couple of years back - Windlass made a copy of the US Army 1860 light saber, as produced in 1906 with steel for the three bar hilt. They were commissioned by a Cavalry Association here in the states and they got it right. The Association made sure that it was a good replica that is the same as the originals that have become quite expensive due to the ACW link. That said, the US 1860 is hardly the best of the military era. I got mine for $125 which is cheaper than any of the antiques I have looked at.
But that is the classic example of the "exception that proves the rule".
Matt now you got me curious, you have to do a video on the best makers out there. Off the top of my head I can think of Gael fabre, the Sulowski brothers, Fabrice Cognot, Tod, Paul Binns, and Maciej Kopciuch.
When he said "One based in Scotland" that can make historical quality hilts, I am almost certain he was talking about Paul MacDonald.
"Expose yourself to antique swords."
That's why I walk into curio shops naked.
The viking horn helmet counts as clothing.
Also on another note aside from not wanting to mess up an antique.. if I'm going to play with it then I'd rather have the better metallurgy on my side... Don't get me wrong I'm not dissing antiques I'm just saying they're antiques for a reason.. also, I don't know any custom bladesmiths that would make replicas for a reasonable price at most everyday people could afford that are decently made and usable.. not counting basic hunting knives and things like that.
Than you very much. Could you please do a beginner buyers guide for antiques?
What to pay attention to, possible issues etc?
I'm interested in buying a sword and indeed the antiques seem more reasonable than replicas.
Nice one
Great video. As for pre gunpowder era medieval and before any recommendations?
I've been dying for a yataghan sword bayonet. Was juggling between reproduction, but yesterday bought an original for a steal. Heavy patina and missing the sheath. 👍 Definitely not a pro by any means but I've restored a few rusted out bayonets. Always a treat.
Dude, get Renaissance De-Corroder. Apparently it's the best thing since sliced bread. A lot of people are using it.
The hanwei shashka is a decent sword that's light, has distal taper and handles very well
I had to think of Alec Steele's lengthy process to recreacte the American cavalry saber.
I recognise that essentials kit and that primer on the shelf, Matt what are you making there?
Windlass seems to have a few different sabers that seem to be pretty well liked especially their American civil war Era stuff
When you restore them you can feel the Steel. It's hardness, texture, even odor based on smithing practices and ore plus the smelting of those ores. I found many differences in Antique Japanese Swords. Besides some work on more common models in the past.
Next step for me is a forge ..There are a lot of forged in fire veterans here in Washington that have said that should be my next step ..I've been studying the process of forging for about 2 years whilst restoring antiques ..
2:00 -- I wonder what class scholagladiatoria brings to the tabletop. (D&D Box on the shelf to the left).
I'm thinking swords school bard.
@@harjutapa 1e is disappoint... ;)
I've always thought you and Aarvid over at Universal should brainstorm Matt
I've heard Matt Easton also runs some kind of antiques website.
Matt, I have a penchant for sabers that were broken in service. Probably from some western movie I saw. Something around 12”-14” blade length or even longer. Do you ever come across that sort of thing? I found a couple (missed one 🤬🤬🤬)
Thank you for your insight.
In addition i think antique swords are litteraly heralds of history.
I would like to follow your advice but i am from France : do you sell outside of UK, or do you recommend a french reseller of antique swords ?
Would you be open to doing a basic/introductory restoration video?
hes got a few where he dose cleaning
Could you imagine Wilkinson making swords again to tap the martial arts and reenactment market OwO
What about acquiring modern patterns of sabres? As I understand British, Australian and Canadian armies still have military sabres if only for honour guard/ceremonial purposes. Or would those only be accessible by the military?
Very good video. Are there any Japanese arms replica makers within EU? I'm looking for older type of Japanese arms (pre-katana) so I'm not sure how many antiques would I find.
From what i read on some forume "Empire Costumes" is a company making napoleonic era swords reproductions. At least some of them seem to have very good distal taper, and come for a reasonable cost (never seen one in person tho).
an example: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/50991/empire-costume-french-light-cavalry
B-26 Marauder kit in the background? 😁
An issue is the "sole authorship" bugbear. The originals were made by several different craftsmen who literally did nothing else but forge, or grind, or polish, or make hilt fittings- for years- and consequently got very good at it to the point, pardon the pun, that a chap finishing the fuller on a wheel could probably pinch the blade between his fingertips and tell if he was getting close to as far as he wanted to go.
Thx Matt,
A good and also a bit sad video.
I think a good replica (Emphasis on good) is often more valuable for understanding certain aspects of history than an antique. With a replica you can use it like an everyday item, you don't have to worry about damaging an irreplaceable artifact, if you need to you can have another one made. Depending on the age of the antique and if it is made of perishable materials, a replica can also be made to give you a complete 'as new' item, and will age with your own use and give a more accurate representation of what it is to care for a it as a usage item rather than an artifact to be restored or preserved. An antique gives you hard data on history, a replica gives you a more practical sense of how these items would be used.
PS. I'm not a sword guy, so my perspective comes only from a general interest in history. Therefore I don't know how well it applies to swords specifically.
What about companies that are still making Military Swords for current militaries? Like William Scully in Canada, who make modern versions of Commonwealth Pattern and Issue swords. Or the equivilant in the UK?
Modern dress swords are cheaply made junk.
It gets even harder looking for Indo-Persion weapons, or less prominent ones like the Bauernwehr, Cinquedea, hunting sword...
For a sparring-safe sword, how close can you approach an antique before the sword becomes unsafe to use?
Can confirm, have tried. Ended up getting antiques in the end. Both Cold Steel and Universal swords are a bust. They are clunky compared to the original and once you see them up close they look like a bootleg version. There’s plenty of makers doing decent medieval/renaissance swords, but no such love for sabres. Sucks because I’d really like to use them for cutting but I just can’t bring myself to do it with an antique.
Hello, Matt! I'm wondering if you ever heard of Access Heritage (www.militaryheritage.com/index.html), another company that makes replica swords. I would like to hear your opinion on whether or not they're good only for parade swords or ones that can actually be used (ie. for test cutting, or reenacting). I never bought a sword before but because this one ships to my home country Canada I'm wondering if this might be okay for a beginner.
I just wondering the cost of a proper military saber in their time period?
I saw the 5e Essentials box and thought for a moment about what class Matt might be.
Of course, the only possible answer is Swords school bard.
(yes, I'm aware that Essentials doesn't have that class. Don't care.
preacher matt
What is the work around to be able to own a curved sword in the UK? What license do you need to get to do that?
I wish I could find antiques in the price range you're talking about.
Interesting topic....I have a Cold Steel 1917 Cutlass and a Dutch Klewang, after which I understand the U.S. Navy modeled the 1917 Cutlass. Mine is a WWII "bringback" and is in very good shape. The difference between the two is incredible. On first inspection the swords appear to be very similar, but the Cold Steel cutlass handles like a baseball bat in comparison with the Klewang. If the balloon should ever go up and I find myself in need of a sword, I'll be using the Klewang. It's old but very lively.....I also have an unused Klewang blade that one of these days I'm going to provide with a guard and grip, then I'll have one for each hand- hey ho!
Take the replica, get a good small bastard file and start draw filing till you have the distal taper of the original. After that start with about 100 grit sandpaper and sand out the file marks. Keep going with finer grits till you've polished the blade to a mirror, that may take a piece of leather impregnated with jewellers compound. If you want to age it a bit, get a couple of tomatoes and smear the juice on the blade and wait overnight. This only works for carbon steel, not stainless.
Take the replica, get a good small bastard file and start draw filing till you have the distal taper of the original. After that start with about 100 grit sandpaper and sand out the file marks. Keep going with finer grits till you've polished the blade to a mirror, that may take a piece of leather impregnated with jewellers compound. If you want to age it a bit, get a couple of tomatoes and smear the juice on the blade and wait overnight. This only works for carbon steel, not stainless.
I bought a replica falcata from Windlass Steelworks recently. I was somewhat disappointed by the result. The steel quality and construction quality were there, but the blade had no distal taper and was 30-50% heavier than authentic falcatas. It can certainly chop well, but after reading about historical falcatas some more, I was saddened to realize my cleaver handles nothing like them. Even my tomahawk handles significantly better.
Also, the edge cross section was quite terrible.
Matt, I have discovered after a bit of googling this evening that Wilkinson no longer make swords for the military, but a company called Pooley has taken over. How do you rate the quality of these swords - are they actually made to the same standards of swords in the late C19 where their owners still thought they might have to use them in anger? I served in as an infantry officer in the 80s and 90s and on the very rare occasions I need to to carry a sword I drew one from the armoury or mess silver store or wherever it was we had a small stockpile without giving it a moment's thought - but I think they were mostly made by Wilkinson. The blades were nickel plated, I think. Were these (or the 1873 E Thurkle sword I was subsequently given) anything more than ceremonial "replicas" themselves?
Thurkle is old enough they would have been combat swords. Wilkinson... depends on the age. Pooley, just no. They're a bunch of charlatans who buy sword replicas from India, dip it in an etch tank and add a zero to the pricetag.
How about links to reputable dealers of legitimate vintage and antique swords and edged weaoons?
These guys make everything in the catalogue to the original drawings and use a MUCH more stringent testing criteria. If you convert rubles to pounds these are very affordable. All swords are used in chopping cutting competitions regularly without complaints (choping metal pipes, wood blocks, 50mm sticks and pig heads. Even with their ultra light (360gram shashkas) There are many videos on youtube of that
Where can you buy sword parts? Bought a blade without a hilt
sooo… say, hypothetically, can antique military sabers be "restored" to usable "field-ready" condition? Just in case someone was … filling out their kit for some reason.
Have you ever thought of making a sword?? I think it would be great for you and for us
He has designed a ligne of practice sabers in collaboration with Kvetun armoury. From what I've heard, they're quite nice!
kvetun-armoury.com/saber/easton-sabre-mark-iii.html
Matt Easton
Oskar häggmark congratulations on first
As opposed to Mark Eston
For the longest time I thought his name was 'Matthisen'
It is rather like saying can you make a modern replica of an Elwell slasher or bill hook. For sure you can stamp out something and even make it out of fancy steel, but will it be as effective and useful as an original? I doubt it. I like to use antique tools in the way you like antique swords.
Any suggestions for sparing replicas?
Am I the only one that noticed the D&D box behind Matt in his workshop?
Edit: Guess not, lol.
There really aren't many swords available these days at those prices
Is there any company still around which produced sabres back in the day and still produces at least knives?
In Germany : Eickhorn, WKC ( Weyersberg, Kirschbaum und Cie.), perhaps also Hubertus.
Most of the older knife and bladesmiths of Solingen in germany, wilkinson may still but they mostly do shaving razors. Windlass steel crafts made kukris for the government of india a few decades ago, that was their main deal, now they make usable mimics of pretty much every weapon.
Some groups make display swords when they formerly made weapons. I forget the name, but I think the company that made combat swords for the US navy is still actively doing so, but their goods now are basically toys.
What is Military sword and Military era? Is it newer swords?
oooh, name names!
Why wouldn't they cost more? Working from flat bar stock is why these blades handle like bars. Distal taper requires starting with thicker stock to get a wider base and grinding away more material to get the correct dimensions. If they're forging, you can hammer out the taper from a shorter length of thicker stock, but that requires more skill and more time - both of which are more expensive than the materials.
There's no way to manufacture a more complex shape without adding to the cost.
Where does one get shaggreen? I know some commercial fishermen, but most won't take a shark or ray. and then, while I do tan my own leather, I do a brain tan. Where would I find the information to learn how to make shaggreen out of shark skin. I love eating shark, but I'm not sure how to get a shark for my freezer and sword hilts.
But would you use an antique? Test cutting and -careful and supervised- sharp on sharp techniques?
*quietly puts 210-year old sabre away and picks up bits of sliced up milk jerrycan*
1. There are still sabers used by certain units. This would mean, someone still should be able to produce at least the current patterns, or do they have so much surplus in stock?
2. I am aware that 200 years ago standardisation was on a different level, but shouldn't a certified military pattern have at least some sort of blueprints and a material list to work with?
WKC Solingen based in germany still manufactures sabres though I believe most of them are decorative or for parades. I wonder if they're any good. Oh, and you really have to take a look considering how many sabres they make with stianless steel.
I wonder if Wilkinson still has some production up somewhere.
Another way to get incredibly familiar with a sword, knife, or firearm is to create a 3D model of it using measurements taken by yourself. You'll very quickly understand why each part is shaped the way it is, how they fit together, and what they do.
I’ve got one of those... a pre-numbered Wilkinson’s RN sword, which I carried as a parade sword in the 80’s. Bloody heavy compared to the modern flimsy things!
Don't be weak.
I have a Klingenthal cuirassier's estoc. It's about 1.3-1.4kg.
@@Brigadier9 Estoc? I don't suppose you mean pallasch, e.g. the M1854 cuirassier pallasch?
brigadeir998 I wasn’t, I carried the thing, but 3 hrs in I was kind of wishing I hadn’t!
That's because modern military swords are designed for ceremonial use only. I don't think that there's a military in the world that still considers and isues swords as weapons so there's no need for them to be made to the same weight as they used to be.
@@Kageitenshi mine is actually a Belgian M1830, not a pallasch as it doesn't have the hatchet point, it's spearpointed. Pretty much identical except for stamps to the (IIRC) AN XI and AN XIII cuirassier estocs used by Napoleon's Grand Armee.
Just being a Belgian M1830 means I paid a third of what a First Empire one would have cost in good nick with the scabbard as mine is.
If I'm actually going to play around with a sword I'd rather buy a modern reproductions so I don't mess up an antique. Some modern reproductions are just fine and some are clunky. When it comes to medieval-style sort of feel like it's easier going about a reproduction that's reasonably priced that isn't too clunky that is still pretty good quality.
Man you're just bragging about how many swords you've got now, and yea I'm jealous
Where can one find a poor condition antique?
Shame there’s no decent modern replicas. I’ve always had a hankering to make a copy of Nasir’s swords from Robin of Sherwood - (still waiting on that video Matt, but I’m sure you wouldn’t be kind!) - which I think were made from a pair of 18th century British Customs Officer swords. I wouldn’t want to desecrate an antique to fulfil my childhood fantasy tho!
But Matt, the only Shashka antiques I can find are 1,300$ minimum.
Where do I go to find a Shashka that is useable?
Strangely enough, go browse Etsy. There are good replicas and sparring shashkas. I'm probably going to order myself a sparring shashka as they're less than a hundred quid.
one thing, though, is that you might feel "safer" buying a modern build because you aren't confident in picking out good vs bad antiques?
That is why you would buy from Easton Antique Arms Ltd. :)
Tsototar its usually pretty obvious if a sword is “compromised” or not in terms of stability.
@@midshipman8654 Oh? Obvious to who?
This is my conundrum. I want to put good historic models on stage, but I am hesitant to put antique into combat(because I don't know the steel), but the replicas have terrible balance and handling.
I have a sword that was given to me when I was a child and can't find any info on it other than it's a Portuguese Cavalry type design. Can you help me identify it and tell me if it's authentic and possibly valuable? I can send pictures of it and tell you more about it if you have a way for us to connect. There is an inscription on it, "VIVA DONA MARIA I" if that helps.
I think the question stems from an ordinary person's relationship to antique objects: Even though the object might be cheap, it's valuable due to it's age and people (at least I) won't thus feel comfortable swinging it around like they would with a reproduction. I take it in your opinion it's acceptable to use antique swords in cutting practise, then?
Are modern military dress swords any good? Or are they just that a dress sword, all looks but no functionality?
Hello Matt! Since you haven't listed the company called Crisp and Sons (www.crisp-and-sons.com/aboutus.htm) I would like to ask your opinion about them, their craft and swords. Though their sortiment of swords (i.e. types and eras) is not as diverse as of the companies you mentioned, but I'm curious whether you consider them to be up to the standard discussed in this video (and to your golden rules) and to the standard that they claim. I'm not expecting you to either badmouth the company, nor make free advertisement for them, I'm just curious whether you would advise further looking into their products in the context of this video.
Perhaps people are also weary of buying even cheaper, lower quality antique swords, because they want them to be practice swords, backyard cutters and all-around beaters as well: although antiques in good condition are easy to find, people may be hesitant to use them so heavily as they would use a replica sword, whilst they might perceive antiques in worse condition as inherently structurally unreliable for that same intended use.
Greetings from Hungary!
Their swords, from what I have seen, are good quality parade swords. However, they are not (as far as I'm aware) made to be used and they are more expensive than antiques of similar patterns.
I could buy an antique, but then I'd feel bad when I did the princess bride speech and battered the shit out of it for the 40th time that day.
Matt Easton : swords / Mark Novak : firearms. History is tangible, and even though the original makers are dead, worth rediscovering and passing on.
the first thing i do as soon as the video starts is click that like button
Ive been debating getting a Regenyei thumb ringed saber.. any thoughts on them?
Personally I'd go to Silkfencing for a good Polish sabre. I've got fed up with Regenyeis as they get chewed up far too easily. They seem both softer and more prone to breakage than a good number of competing brands.
@@Brigadier9 practiced some Bolognese fencing with a Danelli sidesword against Regenyei ones and theirs got quite a bit bigger dents out of it. From what I heard from the fencing club members was that they had been having trouble with the Regenyeis' tips breaking and the edge dings can get sharp and chip due to work hardening. When I got a Regenyei custom longsword and asked if they could customize it further, their reply was "sorry, we currently can't" that they've been quite bogged down with lots of orders. Makes me think they've been slacking with quality assurance.
@@Kageitenshi I'm assuming if you had a Danelli (insert much envy here) you're in Europe, possibly the UK. I have a completely custom longsword that Kvetun made for me at a price IIRC of €350, far cheaper than Regenyei.
I fecking love it. 40 inch Type XII blade, wheel pommel, the grip is nicely shaped, much cut, much stab, all foes kneel before me.
Matt,
If making replicas with the proper amount of distal taper is not that much more expensive than current practice but would result in vastly superior product, why do you think that the modern mass cutleries don't do it?
Cold Steel at least plain don't give a shit. From everyone who's tried working with them apparently it's a brick wall of apathy.