any chance you will be getting some video of it whilst you're doing the job ? I'd be interested in seeing that. Just checked out the channel. Looks like we have some common interests. Will be sussing out a few of this vids. cheers
I will say I use the entire Liqui Molly range, petrol application. They definitely do have their benefits and cleaning properties, I will suggest you use them as a part of a service interval rather than when you have issues (preventative maintenance) for the price you spend per can they stop, restric alot of expensive problems that you pay thousands to fix at a shop. Just my 10cents nice vid
definitely. the situations where I hear others having issues with the product seems to be when they are using it to try and fix a problem or remedy an issue. as a preventative or service supplement, I think it's worth the effort.
hi mate , big fan of your vids . i own a 2015 nx and i was wondering how do you set your idle at 2000 rpm so that you can use this product . i noticed the idle increase before you used the moly but im not sure how you did it . thanks .
@@DENMONKEY I am also in the middle of doing a back to back fuel economy test over 100 litres of mixed driving including a van trip 200km will let you know if there is much in it.
Oil filters. I am out of warranty on my 2016 nx and was wondering if you can recommend an oil filter and should we use 5w/30 oil or the 10w/40 oil. I keep detailed records of fuel consumption and neither oil seem to be better but the 15w/40 oil is much cheaper?
Cheers for this vid. I just did my pajero (372000ks) about an hour ago. But first I had already removed Manifold and intake and done a manual clean. however I didnt have the gear to reach WAAAY inside and do the valves so I went through this liquimoly process. Definitely running better now under acceleration (though it was already running pretty sweet) definitely made a difference. No smoke whatsoever on test drive. I agree with you on previous comments this is more a preventitive or light carbon treatment. I would suggest doing this each oil service.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. First hand experience is great for others to see I think. Especially with those sort of kms on the clock. It will remain a part of my service process when I do my oil changes.
@@DENMONKEY Thinking of running this because my paj is throwin an egr fault. I have just done an oil change tho. Would it be 100% necessary to do another change afterwards?
Hi tim I'm kevin I have a mitsubishi pajero 2008 Japanese diesel 3.2diD and my consultation for you. Is it when you remove all the parts to do intake maintenance and valve egr the bolts must have a torque? I would greatly appreciate your response
@@Adventurero For the NS model the inlet manifold tourque is 17Nm. Injection Return Pipe union bolt 15Nm. Most everything else is just "Tweeked" up tight.
How would you use this in a car with 2 throttle bodies? Q7 has 2 throttle bodies/blocks. From your video, it’s obvious to spray it on throttle body nearest to intake manifold. I’m not sure if car engine will start with only one throttle body? Also do you need to attach throttle body connector or it can be removed? Thanks
I did the diesel purge first before I did the others but because I wasn't exactly sure of the process I didn't shoot any video of that one. I will do it again at some stage but it will be a while I think. The process is very easy though albeit a little bit awkward to get the fuel lines in the bottle etc. I stuck it into a glass jar so I could keep an eye on the levels. Mine came out very clean and the fluid didnt get dirty at all. So I don't think it was needed and doesn't need to be done again anytime soon. All that being said, if you had any questions, I'm happy to help if I can.
Thanks for the tip. Need to decarb the inlet side of my dies engine. A tip for everyone. FTC CONCENTRATE decarbonizer fuel additive / fuel treatment is the best for decarbonizing inside engines. . It will decarbonize engines 100% & keep them 100% free of carbon for the life of the engine. It is also proven to double diesel engine life. Find it on gumtree. It decarbonizes everything inc pistons, ring grooves, heads, exhaust ports & manifolds, diesel particulate filters, emission sensors, cats etc., but not inlet manifolds or inlet ports. There are vids with before & after scopes showing good results on the inlet side with the CRC & Seafoam too. Been looking at a lot lately as I want to do inlet side of mine. And a catch can is an absolute necessity on all engines with PCV & EGR SYSTEMS.
Can you see a way to reverse-engineer a catch-can so that you could install something permanent, that would skirt some juice in the intake with a manual turn of a switch ?
Great video, I will be getting some for mine now & giving it a clean out. What was the scan tool you were using? I've been thinking of getting one for a while since my daughter & I own the same vehicle a Mitsubishi Triton dual cab diesel.
it was just a cheapy , about 15 bucks off ebay but I cant find them anymore. I'm going to grab a couple of cheap ones soon and do a quick check to see they work and will throw up a video on it
Thanks I watched your vid then bought it and used it to try and solve an existing issue of real bad roughness/missing between 2500 - 3000RPM. It did not fix it unfortunately. Still glad I did it, as they need a clean. No smoke came out for me.
I put some Nulon injector cleaner through and gave the car a run. In past experience I found missing or a flat spot in the rev range was due to injectors needing a clean. Give the car a run up a long hill in low gear while the engine is warm. On your next tank of fuel you should see the difference. Hope this works for you.
I had crazy fluctuations around the same in any gear. Had the suction control valve changed which fixed it up. 2007 manual NS Pajero. For anyone who wants the info. Cheers.
Dear sir I used the same on ecosport diesel 2018 facelift after maf sensor but there is turbo after the same i used it on that 75% of that bottle but after that i saw very little white haze so in terror i stopped the process and also engine malfunction light having wrench turned on so i turned off engine and reconnected the hose to turbo after and turned on engine after 1 minute or so light disappeared. Now question is did i do it right or wrong spraying it on turbo as there was only turbo after air filter and maf sensor? If right then why theres white haze and malfunction light? And if wrong how deep trouble i am in? Please reply please Thanks for your help
Job done! Did it mention anything about changing oil after the decarbonising? To get this done at the mechanics costs at least x10 to x20 what the aerosol costs. I will do mine just before the next oil change. Thanks for the review, really good. Looks like I better buy a scan tool as well. Yours is a little beauty!
Thanks Martin. I don't recall if it mentioned the oil change on the can but all of the information I'd read said that it was advised. I also got a quote for a mechanic to do it for me (on vehicle) and he was insistent an oil change be included in the quote as it was a requirement after having it done. So I waited until I was due to do a change and did the clean then. The scan tools are pretty cheap. This is the one I used rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575403116&campid=5338330696&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fitm%2FVGATE-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-V1-5-BLUETOOTH-Android-Car-Auto-Diagnostics-Scanner-Tool-%2F231778352956%3Fhash%3Ditem35f710ff3c If you grab one, also check out the thread on the pajero forum here www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=28002&highlight=torque it will help with some of the settings. That's if you have a pajero of course. cheers Brett
DENMONKEY No, got an old Audi Q7 2008 V8 TT TDi and Toyota Prado 2007 120 series 3.0 D4D engine (heavily modified), so I just bought a Carista OBD2 for Audi and Toyota for $90 from eBay plus whatever the blasted “in App purchases” I will need! You got a good buy there! Have a look how the mechanics do it on CZcams. Sorry I don’t know how to give you the link as I’m on the iPhone doing this. Search JLM diesel decarbonise and see across the top the mechanic with the cylinder hanging from the open hood. $400 plus for the apparatus (for mechanics) and $115 for the two bottles, plus their labour, so no wonder it costs $500 to get a Euro mechanic to do this. I’d much rather do it myself and by those LiquiMoly aerosols, cheap as chips. Since Im a “Supercheap Trade customer” - bullshit marketing rubbish, I get another 10% off any day of the week! Free to join. I find sometimes better deals on the internet anyway. You got a nice truck there-ENJOY!
How did you keep the engine revving when spraying at the same time? Is it possible to do by yourself or do you need someone in the cab keeping the revs up? Thanks.
The app is on the android and is called torque. I was using an obd2 reader to get the info from the car.. Have a look in the description below, I believe I put the link to it there. If I didn't let me know and I'll get one there for ya
With my 4.5ltr 1fz in my cruiser being a petrol after I did my clean out on the carb an intake with the petrol version clean out best to change the oil out cause it can thin the oil out, plus also helped in the long run when I fitted a catch can after the clean out.
Hey Sean, yeah I think it recommends and pull change after use. I do it any way. Just good practice i think. A catch can is on the cards for sure as well but I'm running out of space under the hood.
I have used used it on my 4m40 2.8 turbo diesel Delica. followed directions had similar results for a second hand unknown history with 200k on the odo. Anyway had to replace the inlet manifold gaskets after i got a boost leak so had a good look inside the manifold and back of the inlet valves/cylinder head... the amount of residual egr/pcv shmutz was quite significant and needed physical removal (old tooth brushes/rags and a gurny blast to the manifold), the moly decarb probably had some effect and did help with breaking down the harder deposits cant tell as i did not inspect the intake and valves prior to using the product. The egr was blanked by the previous vehicle owner so the deposits must have been original. I would say this product would be better suited to a periodic couple of squirts aplication every time before an oil change with a known intake system as preventative maintenance and not a chocked intake fix. I also use the diesel purge injector/pump cleaner by liquimoply as a fuel filter prefill and fit. It's good stuff if used correctly.
Hey US. Agree with that 100%. I liked Luke's idea below of giving it a spray and letting it sit for a while to do its job. I don't know if that would increase the risk of any large sections of build up coming away in one go though. If there were any in there in first place. I'd like to see a comparison of 2 of the same vehicles, one treated like you suggest and 1 with just a normal service schedule and see what they look like after 100,000kms. cheers for the comment mate.
No worries, I did dry scrape first before using the moly decarb directly with the tooth brush scrub process on the valves and it definitely had a breakdown solvent like effect, though kero or turps seemed to work the same. Wiped away the gunge, let it evaporate dry, ran the engine 30sec and repeated process till satisfied
Ok thanks yeah found it at autobarn. I'm a little sceptical it will make a lot of difference with significant build up. I've watched some other CZcams videos of guys (pajero's etc) with small amounts of clean areas but still a lot of thick build up. I suspect that's what's causing my loss of power etc...ruled out other things like fuel filter, air filter, injector cleaner, its an older 2006 diesel rodeo so not fused about getting it running perfect, but I'd the cleaner doesn't work I think it might be a removal and hand clean job...which could be a good learning curve. Thanks!
G'day Denmonkey and everyone else. I know this video is about the manifold clean but thought it was something you might know about: Just wondering if you or anyone else have encountered the DPF and Check Engine Light limp mode conundrum? It just happened to my 2007 NS 3.2 yesterday and I've spent today working out what to do. Short of replacing the DPF which is pretty costly, can I clean the DPF with a product similar to this? Should I also do this liquimoly decarb as well? Catch can? EGR chip? Do I need to consider diesel flushing? All new filters? Finally, is there an OB2 tool I should buy that will allow me to actually clear the ECL and get out of limp mode so I can do my own 'forced regen'? As you might be able to tell, I'm a little unsure of what to do entirely, a bit nervous, and I might not be able to it all myself...but I'm willing to try. As an aside, I just want to commend you on the fantastic videos you've put out. They have been instrumental in my decision to buy a 4M41 and despite this little setback, our 'Charlie' is an absolute cracking touring machine. Love it. Keep up the great work!
Hey Joel, thanks heaps mate. I can't tell you much about the dpf though but I was reading a bit on the pajero forum with someone who had similar issues to you. Don't think there was a solution there as yet. Suss it out though and just do a search for DPF. I've not heard of anyone cleaning theirs out DIY style or being able to force a burn off. I reckon there would be a way to trick it, but how, I have no idea. I've had mine go into limp mode because I had left the OBD2 in auto mode for the protocol. the dash went mental. dials going everywhere. Once I sorted it and like in this video, I was able to clear the codes and reset it. There was no mechanical issue behind it though, to make it do it again. Are you getting any other symptoms others than the engine light and limp mode ? What's making you say it's the DPF ? I had some loss of power issues a while back but it ended up being some vacuum hoses. I was about to go out and replace the sensors but figured start cheap. 5 bucks of hose and all good. If you get a result mate, let me know how you sorted it.
DENMONKEY - cheers mate! So the DPF light was the first to come on and before I had he opportunity to do the regen on the highway, the CEL came on and went into limp mode. I had Supercheap scan with a Bosch diagnostic tool and it came up with a p1489 code which is 'DPF Overloaded'. I've ordered an OBD2 Bluetooth adaptor to pair up with Torque or Car Scanner and I've also got someone attempting a force regen on Saturday (with a workshop grade diagnostic tool). Since posting here I've come across one guy who had the exact same circumstances and he managed to get the forced regen by ensuring the right settings were initialised, transmission and coolant temperature are at correct levels and the exact revs maintained throughout the burn off. Hopefully I can get it to burn it off and then clear the code. I think if it works I will then do a flush, change the filters, oils, and do this spray. Think I'll also throw in a fresh suction control valve while I'm at it. I'll keep you posted.
tried this product over the weekend, works all right but have a question if you could help. my car is x5 40d twin turbo diesel, when I inserted the hose into the intake about 3-5 cm it felt there are some blades running , similar to put a straw over the running Fan, so did not want to push it too hard since I thought that may be the blade of turbo. So my question is with turbo Diesel engine how can you insert the hose deeper to clean inside of intake and won't damage the blade. Thanks
“May be a blade of turbo” I may correct you that turbo blade is before the throttle body and intake. Turbo -> Intercooler -> Throttle Body -> Intake. I suggest that you just spray it into throttle body directly. PS: I’m not a mechanic, just some basic knowledge about car and it parts
Iv used this product in the up keeping of my car . using many of there products I carnt seem to fault it . My car has 400 thousand on it an still going strong
Tried the petrol product on my wifes Golf Gti. I disconnected a vacuum hose on the manifold and sprayed it in. The car backfired a bit and threw a fault code. Took it for a drive afterwards and it was running quite rough for about 1km then started running smoothly and the fault light went off. Now i want to try it on my Pathfinder.
What your opinion about blanking off (put a blanking plate) the EGR? Here in Brazil lot of people did this and they said had some gain on acceleration. What do you think about this? Greetings from Brazil!
Thanks for the videos, DM...although I own a completely different car ('95 Honda CRX targa - so obviously, petrol engine), I'm a somewhat recent Liqui Moly convert & I still like to see others' opinions re: ALL of their products...I own &/or have used all 3 of their fuel injector/petrol cleaner/conditioner/boost products, MOS2 Friction Reducer, Carburettor & Valve Cleaner, the 2 at-service engine oil contaminant flushes, MAF/MAP sensor cleaner & the petrol variant of this intake decarb' & although some will automatically say they're a "waste of money" or "placebo effect", I'd have to disagree with them 100% & having completed my entire apprenticeship working upon Hondas from '92-'97 (the exact same years that my CRX was built, so I literally know them back-to-front) at a Honda dealership in Melbourne, I know more than the average guy about my car. Of course, there can be no doubting that some engines are just too far gone for ANY product to bring them back from the 'dead', so to speak but IMO this stuff is typically German (ie. it WORKS!) & that the real waste of money is buying a $15-$20 Wynn's (or similar brands, such as Nulon, etc) additive from the service station & expecting it to work at all, let alone work wonders! Anyway, quality video, nice tip of the can for "dramatic effect" at the end, great iPhone diagnostic app's & happy 2019 to you, mate!! PS. Oh, & I like the message upon the t-shirt too, 'bud' - pun intended 100%!!
Crikey Matty, that's the biggest message I've ever gotten. I agree 100% about some who pass comment with actually trying it for themselves. Whilst I take in all the opinions and info I can, I still like to try things out for myself. Sometimes you can read all you want but the fun and reality is in the doing. Most I've heard from who have actually tried the products have had positive results. Cheers for taking the time mate and happy 2019 right back at ya
@@DENMONKEY Haha, yeah sorry, legend!! I do tend to be rather verbose at the best of times but seeing as though I'm presently pretty much stuck in bed after undergoing major bone graft surgery upon my left heel (due to a 35-plus foot fall directly upon the concrete below 10 years ago now - btw, concrete has no "give", in case you were wondering!), I have too much time on my hands to write such long posts! Yeah, although I'm a tradesman who worked almost exclusively upon Hondas for almost 5 years before. getting out of the trade, I am ALWAYS all too well aware that there is PLENTY more to be learned - often from the most unexpected sources as well - & one can only carry out so much research & due diligence before you just take the proverbial plunge & try things out! But some people on here become so damn precious about motoring-related topics, as if you were spending their money &/or using the products upon their bloody cars!! As for Liqui Moly products, I've traditionally been extremely cynical about additives & "miracle" cleaners but I really do think that their stuff is absolutely phenomenal. However, one's expectations must also be realistic, particularly when their engine hasn't been well maintained for years. Jesus Christ, this reply was supposed to be FAR more succinct than the previous one!! OK, back to the 1st day of the Sydney Test for me now, mate!! Take care & keep the quality videos coming for 'bed-stricken' folk like me, eh?!
@@lavielemond all good mate. I've been known to be a little loquacious myself. It takes me forever to get these videos down to a watchable length. I have to be brutal when cutting out my ramblings . Agree with all of that, including the concrete bit. Hope your noggin is on the mend. I'll do my best to keep the vids coming, the hard part is coming up with content but I've got a plan this year. No affiliation but I really enjoy the smartereveryday channel for learning new stuff. If you haven't stumbled on to it, you may find it interesting. With so much down time and youtube access I think you will find yourself down the rabbit hole more than a few times. cheers Brett
That loose thread on the heat shielding to the left of the intake just flapping around there made my eye twitch. If that had come off and been sucked into the intake you'd have had a bad day...
Hey Denmonkey thanks for the vid, mate just wanted to ask if the scan tool is for diesels also I know it sounds like a stupid question but it doesn't state it on the ebay ad? I have the same pajero but short wheelbase and wanted to get one as my motor is running slow. At 80ks when I put my foot down it does nothing no kick back nothing just runs at one speed. Concerning and I thought running the scan may shed some light. Again thanks for the vid.
Hey Wayne, my pajero is a diesel mate and it works no probs. Just make sure you check the thread on the pajero.vic forum and that you choose the right obd2 protocol (under your vehicle profile) I use ISO 15765-4 Can(11 bit 500kbaud) . It's not as bad as it sounds. It's just a setting that you need to choose when setting it up. when I used the auto setting it threw codes and caused it to go into limp mode. scared the shit out of me :)
Thanks for this mate. I ran a can through the car today and it seems better. Definitely isn't blowing black smoke under load which suggests it's getting more air and running leaner. So I guess it did the job. No white smoke or error light for me though. How did you hold it at 2000RPM?
cheers mate. I had a tow hitch that i leaned on the accelerator pedal. I figure a brick or something would work just as well. I just looked for something heavy and placed in on the pedal
Just wondering if you have fitted a catch can or blocked the egr to prevent the black sludge buildup? I have same NT pajero without dpf, and was looking to fit a catch can. But don't want it to restrict crankcase pressure. So might go with a provent 200 with steel mesh rather than the cotton type Also, I was thinking to blank the egr, but actually have heard doing a full blank means engine takes longer to warm up. So many do a partial with 10 mm hole. Anyway, mine has 250 000km and I physically cleaned out the egr pipe and manifold and whilst I basically removed half a cup of grease n carbon, I think that not too bad for so many km. I might try the cleaner you did just before next oil change.
I've not yet mate . It's on the cards but plenty of other stuff to do and I'd don't know a great deal about them, so would need to do some reading first. Like you I'd want to get one one before I get around to doing an off car manifold clean. not much point for me before that. plus I'm running out of space under the bonnet.
dont know if you have thought about it, will you be adding a catch can on in the future, i have a NT, 3.2L. i went with HPD catch can fairly easy install and happy to see its been collecting the oil
Hey Beau, I sure have been thinking about it. I want to go a secondary fuel filter first though and was considering donaldsons but they seem to have some quality issues. So I think a diesel care unit is in order. If you're running either, I'd be interested in what you have and your opinion. Re the catch can I hadn't committed to any brand as yet. Probably a while off yet, but those HPDs look like a schmick set up. I'd also like a second battery under the bonnet for the winch, so I need to be careful about how much space I have to spare for all these things. Of course, I still need to wait for the powerball win so I can afford all this stuff too.
That is a good idea I’ll be looking into that in the future, maybe see if wesfill or mann + hummel, with the catch can, mines a Manual with a snorkel but have it mounted on the firewall next to the brake booster but there are a couple spots, and prevent seems to be a good option to from what I’ve heard, I really like how you have set up your paj, given me some really good inspiration
@@DENMONKEY, Repco are now putting out a catch can, around $200 I think. If step downs are required for hoses add another $30 or $40 I believe. Don't know anyone who has fitted one yet.
Hey mate random question but what’s the running cost on these Pajeros? I’m interested in purchasing one but worried about the cost of Service, maintenance, fuel economy etc
Mate, hard to tell. I tend to do my own basic servicing, oil changes etc. I'm getting sind 12l/100km but that was around 10 before I stuck all of the plates on it etc and the bigger wheels. Parts week be a bit more expensive than Toyota because everyone makes after market parts for them. Insurance has been reasonable. That's about the best I can offer I'm afraid, but hope it helps.
Hey Derek, I've been running one since I got the paj. Like you I've been happy with it. When I got the tune recently they turned the EGR off as part of that. So it's no longer in the car. Thanks for reminding me I need to find it and sell it 😁. I can confirm they work though based on the torque app which showed the EGR as closed.
Hey Jack, its been a while but I think I cleared it with the obd2 reader. You can pick them up off ebay for about 15 bucks. get the torque app on your phone and you will be able to sort it
Just bought some on your recommendation. Followed the instruction video from the manufacturer and also bought some injector cleaner. Runs heaps smoother and idles better. Definitely has more pick up from lower revs so should have better fuel economy. Cant wait for the cleaner to clear to see the difference.
excellent Wombat . I'm glad it worked for you. I prefer not to think of what i do as a recommendation, rather than just sharing my own experience, so others can get an idea and make up their own minds. I do love it though, when others post up that they got similar results to mine. I think the comments from those who have tried also helps others see the result I shared was genuine and not just a one off. thanks heaps mate for taking the time to post back to let me know how it went. much appreciated. cheers Brett
I am currently looking for for a MN or ML Triton to buy and this is going to be the first job I do on the vehicle. Seems to me that it is a regular service job that will give a diesel some longevity
seafoam is $7 here for a 16 oz. can. that's what i use to clean my 07 f350 powerstroke. works great. just suggesting a cheaper alternative. also use in my oil as well before changing.
cheers Stace, it's about 25 bucks a can if you can find it here in Aus but it's not sold through our main auto stores. You have to go online etc to get it. I have seen many videos on it though and would be keen to try it out on some of my 2 stroke garden gear . seems to get good wraps from those who use it. cheers Brett
@@DENMONKEY damn....that's pricey. It's pretty handy for a lot of different things. fuel treatment and cleaning, oil treatment. hell I even use it to winterize my son's dirtbikes. It made a believer out of me on my truck though.
no mate, it doesn't require the pressure from the turbo to work. The can is pressurized and has a very small nozzle which applied the contents quite forcefully, plus the natural suction of the engine intake sucks it right up
Thank you for the answer but I mean you applied it to directly throttle valve (I guess the valve name is different for diesel engines) so basically turbo works during the process but engine is not using that turbo pressure it goes directly to atmosphere so my question is isnt it harmful for the diesel engine running without a turbo. I saw some of the people applies it right before the turbo after the MAF sensor but i guess the way you did is much effective.
I followed the instructions that I'd seen online. I don't recall where though. There were concerns that if you do it before the turbo and any rubbish that came loose might damage the blades in the turbo so it was best no to do it that way. Plus it was to remove the carbon which builds up at the intake and Egr etc so getting as close as I could to that to apply it made the most sense. I hope that's a better answer for your question 😊
Just did my MN Triton then drove around for about 30 minutes, then changed the oil. I drove the same route to the tip that i'd done earlier so I reckon it made enough of a difference that I'll add it to my oil changes from now on.
good video mate now you have cleaned your inlet just get yourself a mann and hummel provent 200 oil catch can that will prevent oil vapor in the manifold and your egr soot won't turn into sludge
Hi, i have touareg 2008 3.0 TDI and i got the warning light on EGR. you advice to replace oil + filter after or before you used Liquimoly? how much time it last?
Haulin, that would be for the removal of the manifold and to have it done properly. Doing this process simply can't compete with pulling the manifold off and physically getting in there and cleaning it. The injector pipes also need replacing every 4 or so removals, so they may be due too depending on your kms. Think of this more as a preventative type measure rather than a replacement for having it done off vehicle. 1k is on the high end but I've heard anywhere between $600-1200 but again it will depend on exactly what is required.
@@DENMONKEY there is always a method. Just like when we raced rotary engines nothing like little trans fluid in the carb while running cleans all carbon build up. Or watching idiots use ether to start diesel engines or cars with airmass meters burning the little rod no one sees wondering why shit breaks. Always do your research . Injection cleaners hurt the teflon on your injectors. . Just learn and read read read read and dont always believe every mechanic you meet.
hi, the fault code can be seen at 3:24 and is P0299 which says powertrain. This came up as I was revving the car without the intake hose connected. Seems an odd code but thats what is threw. check this thread in the pajero forum for set up www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=28002&highlight=toque+app&page=21 under your vehicle profile change the preffered ob2 protocol from auto to ISO 15765-4 can 11bit 500k . I had mine set to auto and it sent it into limp mode at a really bad time and threw codes. I had to turn the card off, clear the codes and then change the setting to get it to work. Mine is an NT model and that is what worked for me
Sounds like one of those "generic powertrain faults" aka the "something ain't right, fucked if we know what but enjoy your limp mode anyway" code. My Pathfinder did it after a batch of dodgy fuel, filter didn't allow enough through to maintain injector pressure so limp mode it was. Half way down a series of rock steps in the middle of nowhere...
@@yozenfrogurt09 it's a manufacturer specific code. You would need a more advanced scan tool to see what it really was. The same code would be different between say a Ford and a Chevy.
Basically, I just followed the instructions mate. I'd also read peoples concerns about spraying ahead of the turbo may dislodge some contaminants and allow them to travel into the turbo whilst it was spinning. I wanted to make sure that didn't happen. Plus going directly into the manifold allowed the spray to be deployed closest to the area where it was required and would give the best results. cheers Brett
@@DENMONKEY I'm going to try on my VW and I want to open the intake system just before the manifold but that will leave the turbo with no resistance, maybe that is okay. Did you leave your turbo just spinning out an open tube? Thanks
hi, i dont anderstand how you put that on the right side wher stands egr tht is end of sistem, on my car turbo is on left side, mas flow senzor, manifold..
this isn't meant to clean the MAF sensor etc. there are specific sprays to do that and this is not one of them. it is to clean the intake manifold . not the entire intake system like the turbo etc
yes, i anderstand tnx, one more can i spray on the hole in front of car on top of radiator wher air first coming to car or that just will al go to engine trough air filter. and will not go to whole sistem what you think?
Hello mate. I haven't used this product before, but I have used Liqui-Moly Diesel Purge Plus on a number of occasions, and that makes a noticeable difference. It seems to restore lost performance, lowers the amount of smoke and has a smoother idle and easier start up after use. Purge replaces the fuel lines straight into the engine, so it's like an IV? Anyway, my point is that while I am sometimes dubious about the claims that are made, Liqui-Moly seems to offer benefits based on our experience. Cheers mate.
@@DENMONKEY Dear sir I used the same on ecosport diesel 2018 facelift after maf sensor but there is turbo after the same i used it on that 75% of that bottle but after that i saw very little white haze so in terror i stopped the process and also engine malfunction light having wrench turned on so i turned off engine and reconnected the hose to turbo after and turned on engine after 1 minute or so light disappeared. Now question is did i do it right or wrong spraying it on turbo as there was only turbo after air filter and maf sensor? If right then why theres white haze and malfunction light? And if wrong how deep trouble i am in? Please reply please Thanks for your help
The was an bluetooth obd2 reader (ebay cheapy) here the link rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575403116&campid=5338330696&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fitm%2F2017-Vgate-V1-5-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-CAN-Scanner-for-TORQUE-Android-phone-%2F121448673471%3F_trksid%3Dp2349526.m4383.l4275.c10%23viTabs_0 and the torque app on for android
was this a good idea? I mean, have you guys seen how much the intake gets caked up with soot thanks to the EGR? if those chunks break off and get into the engine, well....good luck
Until 2 days ago, I was yet to hear of anyone who had a catastrophic failure from this. I was speaking to a work mate who mentioned his friend who had to replace an engine in his pajero. It seems he was doing an at home clean and had a run away. the engine destroyed itself. I don't know the exact details , the product or how it was applied, but I will be asking him for that info when i get the chance. That said, most of the comments below seem positive. I think if this were the case though, you would see many more personal examples of it below.
none in particular Goron. The car was just new to me (2nd hand) and I want to give it a once over to try and start with a clean slate if you will. I had it to a mechanic who does the on car manifold clean and had priced that up to get done. Still might. During my research I found this product and saw it at my local retailer. Based on the positive reviews I had seen, I thought why not, I will give it a try. I didn't have much expectation for it, so was happy with the final result. It's still subjective but I think my feelings on it align themselves with others who had used it and shared their opinion. I also did the diesel purge around the same time.
@@DENMONKEY I have a definite bog feeling at about 3200rpm. I believe the turbo starts increasing pressure within the clogged intake manifold. I've had two cans left over from another car but cannot find the long tube. My car suddenly went into limpmode I think because it got to hot (no temp gauge) climbing an long hill, I turned around and let it roll down hill in gear running and let it cool down. I had to restart the car to get iut if limpmode and it has run much stronger ever since.
@@flashgordon3715 I noticed the car would not pull easily from lower gears and would bog down from slow acceleration. A EGR (anti pollution computer) sensor can clog and will set a car in limp mode, this can be cleared with a high rev run down a highway for 5 minutes (mechanic told me so). Have done this twice in the last 5 months and engine light for depollution clears. This is a short term fix and eventually it needs replacing. This also means the car's ECU needs a reset. I will need this soon but the EGR is worth more than the car.
@@DENMONKEY Hi there, thanks for your video. I am currently deciding on a inlet manifold clean. Harmonic clean quoted at $600. What is the on car clean and how were you quoated please? Thanks
Hey Mike, yeah me to, but figured I'd give it a crack and was happy enough to roll the dice for 30 bucks. I wasn't planning on making the video on this one but thought why not. I'm sure others are just as curious as I was.
DENMONKEY nah good on you for making it. Always good to see someone else’s view. On point to note, I used to use Subaru upper engine cleaner on my outback which is a similar product, essentially decarbing solution. Thing is, they recommended to follow it up with an oil change, ie first step of the service as that stuff doesn’t mix well with oil and the combustion products do get past rings naturally. Not sure if it had a similar note on your can?
DENMONKEY so I gave it a go today. Must say I agree. Seemed a little more refined during the drive after. Nothing huge but could feel it. Certainly more so that the stuff I used in my old Subaru. That was snake oil or at least the effect it had was. Also gave it a small squirt where the breather connects to the turbo inlet hose as that had oil streaks from the pcv.
excellent. so not just me then. It's hard when you do something like this to know if its all in your head afterwards. I was surprised how much was in the can. It just kept coming. I could certainly see it removing muck from the intake but only the first section which was pretty clean anyway. for 30 bucks I was happy with it.
can't say I've notice any less fuel usage I'm afraid but with all the gear I have on it, plates, slider, solar panels etc, my fuel usage is up around 2-3 liters over a standard pajero
Thanks mate. I did this on a friend's car. Also suggest checking and cleaning the MAP sensor as can be prone to gumming up. Be wary, these can chip off carbon deposits and score the bores or put the valve seats and faces. If you have a bad build up I'd probably suggest a remove and clean. These sprays are more of a preventative measure for ongoing use. By all means it's a good product and I noticed a good increase in power ( general term ) after map sensor cleaning and a full spray 😎
about to do this on my v10 tdi touareg. i didnt realize i had to do an oil change after, i just did my oil a couple weeks ago. with 12 liters of liquimoly toptec it kinda sucks i have to do it again but oh well now i know. i got two bottles off amazon for 13 bucks each since my tdi has dual intakes. not a bad price to add to a $180 oil change though. anyway i rather just delete the egr and dpf but the freakin tune is so expensive for this car for no reason!
haha yeah it stings a bit taking so much oil and especially puting in the good stuff. I keep my eye on supercheap and pick up their penrite 10L drums when it's on sale and just have 2 always sitting in the shed. a mates dad has the touareg and he absolutely loves it. I think he uses it to tow a van too but I'm not 100% sure.
I would do it ever again. If the engine maintained ok but if you buy a car of someone and do this you can be up for top end rebuild. I would only use this product if i knew the car prior. Other wise forget it
I took off my EGR Valve on Amarok 2015 and cleaned it manually with this product. There was hard (almost impenetrable) soot build up on the valve that returns gas to the engine. The rest of the egr was sooty but nothing looked bad. I took off the egr hose and gave that a manual clean with a $2 bottle brush from bunnings and sprayed clean with this product. My biggest concern is the HUGE sludge build inside the engine that the egr connects to. I rounded my fingers in there (with gloves on) as far as I could reach and have been scraping off thick sludge from inside the plastic cover (top engine cover) i don't have enough mechanical knowledge to pull this off to clean manually. I suspect my mechanic hasn't been doing the oil changes. I've just cleared 100k so am doing my own services etc now
Nothing to do with oil changes. Your car has a crankcase pressure hose(cant remember the name for it) which feeds dirty, oily, hot air straight into your clean air feeding into the throttle body. Youll be able to see it if you look at your air intaje, connects your crank case to the intake. Terrible. This combined with the EGR valve means almost all modern engines are filthy and choking. If you want to save your engine and have it run better for much longer than it normally would, get a catch can fitted(it filters this crankcase gas, very important especially when you see how much shit it saves from going in your engine, the direct cause of that baked on tar) and block off your EGR valve. At minimum get the catch can. Every car with a crankcase to intake feed should have one to extend engine life and performance.
you didn't lose boost, you lost intake back pressure because the air being pushed out of your turbo now can get into the engine with less restriction. It's a good thing
nup, shes still running. ironically I got a off car manifold clean done and 2 weeks later its in getting a new turbo. :( not really related though, the air box was letting dust through. the turbo ate itself
@@eroffroad5438 it opens and shuts to alter the air flow into the engine depending on the throttle position. As the car accelerates and uses more fuel, it needs more air and this will open up to allow it to flow through.
@@DENMONKEY it's actually to create vacuum on modern turbo diesels for the EGR to work. They are sprung loaded wide open and when the engine is not under much load they slightly close creating a vacuum.
I don't see why not but I don't know that car. There is a version of this for petrol and one for diesel. If in doubt get in touch with the supplier. They should be able to tell you for sure.
Yes mate for sure. I've done it a few more times since. No issues. Plus the comments seem to mostly positive. Keep in mind I'm no mechanic and this has just been my experience.
@@DENMONKEY what I don't get with these engines is they don't blow smoke because it's all sent back through the intake anyway. Hard to know if it's improved it compared to old diesels
Wonder's what he did?!? ^^^ It's no miracle cure and certainly will not free up 250,000km worth of EGR carbon but it helps maintain a clean intake if done regularly IMO ( I'd rather dose it with this every 10,0000km than remove and clean an intake every 150,000km !!
so - stupid question - did you put back big black ruber hose on the metal thing ? :D coz i managed to forget about that and it sucked in some debrie in .... ( so now i have one less diesel car :D )
I rate this stuff. I apply it differently though. Hot engine. Switched off. Disconnect the boost pipe to the intake manifold. Give it a good solid spray. Reconnect the boost pipe. Then let it soak for 10 min. Restart engine( it’ll crank a few times and cough a bit). Set engine revs to 2200 rpm. Disconnect crankcase breather pipe that is on the air intake pipe ( pre turbo post maf sensor) Spray cleaner ( rest of can ) slowly Let idle for a few minutes then switch engine off. Let heat soak for approximately 1 hour. Drive for half an hour at least and drive it fairly hard to blow out the crap. Go home have beers and then following day change the oil. Personally if I’m gonna spend $30 on a can. I’ll get the most out of it as possible. Got 240k on my tdi and it runs perfect
Hey Luke, that doesn't sound like a bad way to do it. I like the idea of letting it sit to do it's thing. I'd say that could be more effective than following the instructions with it running, as it wouldn't have much time to work. I'm gonna keep these up about once a year I think., just as part of my maintained schedule.
DENMONKEY thanks mate. I do this twice a year myself. Diesels are naturally oily motors. So not over doing it on higher mileage vehicles for me. Keeps tolerances happy. ( blow by , over smoking exhaust etc) FYI if you haven’t explored moreys smoke kill for diesels. Check it out. Every third tank, a strong dose is fantastic for higher mileage motors
I guess Liqui Moly doesn't recommend letting the product "soak", because of the risk of dislodging larger chunks of carbon deposit, which in turn might damage the cylinders
Gábor Bérczi agreed, yet in my case. I’ve physically removed my intake manifold and properly cleaned both manifold and ports , when I first purchased my tdi motor. So I know there’s no excessive buildup.
Stupid eGr design makes them prone to carbon soot build-up on most diesel engines in general theres also a fuel tank treatment also as that goes thru the injectors and intake and motor etc also.
Another issue is the pcv oil mist getting plumbed into hot egr and baking on there a catch can helps take that out of the equation. Think of that as the batter and the egr is the oven and you're baking a carbon cake in there.
Never ever ever run that stuff through your intake while still attached to the car. All that shit you are cleaning out of the intake (carbon, dirty oil build up. HARD chunks of build up etc) is going through the cylinder where only diesel and air should be going through. You could fuck something up majorly. You want to do it properly? Take the intake off and clean it out manually and once clean and dry. Put it back together.
Hey Andrew, I have read a few posts etc that basically said the same thing. Whilst I was weary of such things, I figured If that was the case and it had actually happened to someone there would be something I could have found online. Plenty saying it would happen and warning about it but I'm yet to find an example of it actually occurring. If you read the comments to this video you will see a fair portion of them are positive. I'm yet to spot one from a user of the product that has suffered the outcome this warning suggests. I think the vid has around 60k views now. Pretty sure if this was going on, this would likely be a place where they would share their experience. With that in mind, I'm calling it good. I prefer to test stuff out real world for myself rather than relying on forum experts. Albeit they can be a valuable source of info at times. Thanks for the comment though, good to have a balance of opinions.
DENMONKEY I have heard the same too, I’ve see videos of how bad the carbon build up is and most ports being blocked up with only small holes left for air to get through.. ain’t nothing gonna get that off except some serious elbow grease, my guess is this melts off some stuff around the edges and maybe opens up the ports at the engine side by another mm or so, enough to give a small difference but nothing close to what you could achieve by doing it manually. Is it worth $30 for some minor improvement which may only last a week or so.. don’t know ?
It's probably mostly solvents. The intake sludge is a mix of oil and soot- dissolve the oil and everything will turn liquid and run down the intake into the cylinders...
no man, that is a bad idea. here is the reason why--- if you have carbon build up, including in the intake ports. all that sludge will go through the engine, think about that stuff sitting on top of your pistons, cylinder walls. I have seen that sludge lock an engine after a cleaning like that. if you don't get all of it out, it will ooze down the intake ports and dry. holding a valve open or sit on top of the piston. both will cause damage
Thanks MJT. I'd read that on a few forums but I was unable to find any evidence that this was the case. Everything I found was theory and not tested. The only feedback I got from people who had actually used the product was from didn't notice any difference to felt an improvement. That was why I tried the product for myself and shared my experience on the video. Not saying it can't happen but if this stuff was killing engines as suggested by a few posts on forums, I reckon we would know about it by now. That's why i prefer to test these things for myself or speak to users of the products to get first hand information, rather than a guy who heard it from a guy whos cousin knows about some guy it happened to once. If you can point me to a post or some info that shows evidence of it happening, I'm more than happy to read it and for you to share it in the comments. After all, I'm not just trying to prove to people it works, but rather share all the info good and bad. Look through the comments though and I think the positive nature of them speaks for themselves. cheers Brett
Bought some of this today. Thinking about buying an inspection camera to see before and after. Good vid mate.
any chance you will be getting some video of it whilst you're doing the job ?
I'd be interested in seeing that.
Just checked out the channel. Looks like we have some common interests. Will be sussing out a few of this vids. cheers
@@DENMONKEY Definitely mate. Thanks for checking out my videos mate.
what can I say. Newy boys gotta stick together :)
I will say I use the entire Liqui Molly range, petrol application. They definitely do have their benefits and cleaning properties, I will suggest you use them as a part of a service interval rather than when you have issues (preventative maintenance) for the price you spend per can they stop, restric alot of expensive problems that you pay thousands to fix at a shop. Just my 10cents nice vid
definitely. the situations where I hear others having issues with the product seems to be when they are using it to try and fix a problem or remedy an issue. as a preventative or service supplement, I think it's worth the effort.
cheers for the video mate just what i was looking for.
Excellent. Thanks jye
Planning to do this on my duramax, just waiting for warmer temps!
hi mate , big fan of your vids . i own a 2015 nx and i was wondering how do you set your idle at 2000 rpm so that you can use this product . i noticed the idle increase before you used the moly but im not sure how you did it . thanks .
Great little video I used the product on our 120 Prado worked great. 300k kms stock std.
thanks mate. appreciate the comment you sharing your experience with it. Do you think you saw any improvement from using it ?
@@DENMONKEY for sure pal especially with the van on ! More power
@@DENMONKEY I am also in the middle of doing a back to back fuel economy test over 100 litres of mixed driving including a van trip 200km will let you know if there is much in it.
@@benjjacko7961 yes mate, I'd very much be interested in what you think afterwards.
Mine didn't blow any white smoke afterwards, I was expecting it to though.
Oil filters. I am out of warranty on my 2016 nx and was wondering if you can recommend an oil filter and should we use 5w/30 oil or the 10w/40 oil. I keep detailed records of fuel consumption and neither oil seem to be better but the 15w/40 oil is much cheaper?
great video mate. good info without waffle. cheers
Cheers Wayne
Cheers for this vid. I just did my pajero (372000ks) about an hour ago. But first I had already removed Manifold and intake and done a manual clean. however I didnt have the gear to reach WAAAY inside and do the valves so I went through this liquimoly process. Definitely running better now under acceleration (though it was already running pretty sweet) definitely made a difference. No smoke whatsoever on test drive. I agree with you on previous comments this is more a preventitive or light carbon treatment. I would suggest doing this each oil service.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. First hand experience is great for others to see I think. Especially with those sort of kms on the clock. It will remain a part of my service process when I do my oil changes.
@@DENMONKEY Thinking of running this because my paj is throwin an egr fault. I have just done an oil change tho. Would it be 100% necessary to do another change afterwards?
Hi tim I'm kevin I have a mitsubishi pajero 2008 Japanese diesel 3.2diD and my consultation for you. Is it when you remove all the parts to do intake maintenance and valve egr the bolts must have a torque? I would greatly appreciate your response
@@Adventurero For the NS model the inlet manifold tourque is 17Nm. Injection Return Pipe union bolt 15Nm. Most everything else is just "Tweeked" up tight.
@@jediofthejungle Too grateful for you Mr Timothy. I have another consultation you can use Petrol o gasoline To clean the parts?
How would you use this in a car with 2 throttle bodies? Q7 has 2 throttle bodies/blocks.
From your video, it’s obvious to spray it on throttle body nearest to intake manifold.
I’m not sure if car engine will start with only one throttle body?
Also do you need to attach throttle body connector or it can be removed? Thanks
Great vid mate. Will you post the vid of the diesel injector purge?
I did the diesel purge first before I did the others but because I wasn't exactly sure of the process I didn't shoot any video of that one.
I will do it again at some stage but it will be a while I think.
The process is very easy though albeit a little bit awkward to get the fuel lines in the bottle etc.
I stuck it into a glass jar so I could keep an eye on the levels.
Mine came out very clean and the fluid didnt get dirty at all. So I don't think it was needed and doesn't need to be done again anytime soon.
All that being said, if you had any questions, I'm happy to help if I can.
Thanks for the tip. Need to decarb the inlet side of my dies engine. A tip for everyone. FTC CONCENTRATE decarbonizer fuel additive / fuel treatment is the best for decarbonizing inside engines. . It will decarbonize engines 100% & keep them 100% free of carbon for the life of the engine. It is also proven to double diesel engine life. Find it on gumtree. It decarbonizes everything inc pistons, ring grooves, heads, exhaust ports & manifolds, diesel particulate filters, emission sensors, cats etc., but not inlet manifolds or inlet ports. There are vids with before & after scopes showing good results on the inlet side with the CRC & Seafoam too. Been looking at a lot lately as I want to do inlet side of mine.
And a catch can is an absolute necessity on all engines with PCV & EGR SYSTEMS.
thanks somolon. I do need to get a catch can fitted. its on the list. plus a second fuel filter. money and time mate :) need more of both
Can you see a way to reverse-engineer a catch-can so that you could install something permanent, that would
skirt some juice in the intake with a manual turn of a switch ?
Great video, I will be getting some for mine now & giving it a clean out. What was the scan tool you were using? I've been thinking of getting one for a while since my daughter & I own the same vehicle a Mitsubishi Triton dual cab diesel.
it was just a cheapy , about 15 bucks off ebay but I cant find them anymore. I'm going to grab a couple of cheap ones soon and do a quick check to see they work and will throw up a video on it
What is that app you were using to clear the fault code? Is it available for a 2013 Colorado?
Para mi experiencia?????SIIIII,,,me a funcionado esta marca,,,la he usado por varios años en los distintos vehiculos que he tenido,,muy buena.
Gracias por tu comentario. Me alegra que te haya funcionado.
Thanks I watched your vid then bought it and used it to try and solve an existing issue of real bad roughness/missing between 2500 - 3000RPM. It did not fix it unfortunately. Still glad I did it, as they need a clean. No smoke came out for me.
Pity is wasn't the fix all for ya mate. Worth a crack for 30 bucks. Did you end up sorting it ?
I put some Nulon injector cleaner through and gave the car a run. In past experience I found missing or a flat spot in the rev range was due to injectors needing a clean. Give the car a run up a long hill in low gear while the engine is warm. On your next tank of fuel you should see the difference.
Hope this works for you.
@@Bahiti-wv7yh did you try the liqui moly diesel purge
I had crazy fluctuations around the same in any gear. Had the suction control valve changed which fixed it up. 2007 manual NS Pajero. For anyone who wants the info. Cheers.
Thanks bro great vid
cheers Mr Scott
Dear sir
I used the same on ecosport diesel 2018 facelift after maf sensor but there is turbo after the same i used it on that 75% of that bottle but after that i saw very little white haze so in terror i stopped the process and also engine malfunction light having wrench turned on so i turned off engine and reconnected the hose to turbo after and turned on engine after 1 minute or so light disappeared.
Now question is did i do it right or wrong spraying it on turbo as there was only turbo after air filter and maf sensor?
If right then why theres white haze and malfunction light?
And if wrong how deep trouble i am in?
Please reply please
Thanks for your help
Job done! Did it mention anything about changing oil after the decarbonising?
To get this done at the mechanics costs at least x10 to x20 what the aerosol costs.
I will do mine just before the next oil change.
Thanks for the review, really good. Looks like I better buy a scan tool as well. Yours is a little beauty!
Thanks Martin.
I don't recall if it mentioned the oil change on the can but all of the information I'd read said that it was advised.
I also got a quote for a mechanic to do it for me (on vehicle) and he was insistent an oil change be included in the quote as it was a requirement after having it done.
So I waited until I was due to do a change and did the clean then.
The scan tools are pretty cheap.
This is the one I used
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575403116&campid=5338330696&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fitm%2FVGATE-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-V1-5-BLUETOOTH-Android-Car-Auto-Diagnostics-Scanner-Tool-%2F231778352956%3Fhash%3Ditem35f710ff3c
If you grab one, also check out the thread on the pajero forum here
www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=28002&highlight=torque
it will help with some of the settings.
That's if you have a pajero of course.
cheers Brett
DENMONKEY No, got an old Audi Q7 2008 V8 TT TDi and Toyota Prado 2007 120 series 3.0 D4D engine (heavily modified), so I just bought a Carista OBD2 for Audi and Toyota for $90 from eBay plus whatever the blasted “in App purchases” I will need!
You got a good buy there!
Have a look how the mechanics do it on CZcams.
Sorry I don’t know how to give you the link as I’m on the iPhone doing this.
Search JLM diesel decarbonise and see across the top the mechanic with the cylinder hanging from the open hood. $400 plus for the apparatus (for mechanics) and $115 for the two bottles, plus their labour, so no wonder it costs $500 to get a Euro mechanic to do this.
I’d much rather do it myself and by those LiquiMoly aerosols, cheap as chips.
Since Im a “Supercheap Trade customer” - bullshit marketing rubbish, I get another 10% off any day of the week! Free to join.
I find sometimes better deals on the internet anyway.
You got a nice truck there-ENJOY!
thanks mate. I was quoted around $700aud
How did you keep the engine revving when spraying at the same time? Is it possible to do by yourself or do you need someone in the cab keeping the revs up? Thanks.
I leaned my tow hitch against the accelerator pedal. A brick or something like that should work just as well :)
Thanks mate, I was thinking brick but have the tow hitch handy.
great video can you tell me which APP you where using and what was it going through
The app is on the android and is called torque. I was using an obd2 reader to get the info from the car.. Have a look in the description below, I believe I put the link to it there. If I didn't let me know and I'll get one there for ya
If you can hear and feel it. It works.
With my 4.5ltr 1fz in my cruiser being a petrol after I did my clean out on the carb an intake with the petrol version clean out best to change the oil out cause it can thin the oil out, plus also helped in the long run when I fitted a catch can after the clean out.
Hey Sean, yeah I think it recommends and pull change after use. I do it any way. Just good practice i think. A catch can is on the cards for sure as well but I'm running out of space under the hood.
Is it hard to fit a catch can how do these actually work is it Unburnt diesel
I have used used it on my 4m40 2.8 turbo diesel Delica. followed directions had similar results for a second hand unknown history with 200k on the odo. Anyway had to replace the inlet manifold gaskets after i got a boost leak so had a good look inside the manifold and back of the inlet valves/cylinder head... the amount of residual egr/pcv shmutz was quite significant and needed physical removal (old tooth brushes/rags and a gurny blast to the manifold), the moly decarb probably had some effect and did help with breaking down the harder deposits cant tell as i did not inspect the intake and valves prior to using the product. The egr was blanked by the previous vehicle owner so the deposits must have been original. I would say this product would be better suited to a periodic couple of squirts aplication every time before an oil change with a known intake system as preventative maintenance and not a chocked intake fix. I also use the diesel purge injector/pump cleaner by liquimoply as a fuel filter prefill and fit. It's good stuff if used correctly.
Hey US. Agree with that 100%. I liked Luke's idea below of giving it a spray and letting it sit for a while to do its job. I don't know if that would increase the risk of any large sections of build up coming away in one go though. If there were any in there in first place. I'd like to see a comparison of 2 of the same vehicles, one treated like you suggest and 1 with just a normal service schedule and see what they look like after 100,000kms. cheers for the comment mate.
No worries, I did dry scrape first before using the moly decarb directly with the tooth brush scrub process on the valves and it definitely had a breakdown solvent like effect, though kero or turps seemed to work the same. Wiped away the gunge, let it evaporate dry, ran the engine 30sec and repeated process till satisfied
Hey mate thanks for this. Need to do this with my rodeo 2006 diesel. Where did u get that from? Bursons? Autobarn?
I got mine from super cheap but I think it's pretty much everywhere.
Ok thanks yeah found it at autobarn. I'm a little sceptical it will make a lot of difference with significant build up. I've watched some other CZcams videos of guys (pajero's etc) with small amounts of clean areas but still a lot of thick build up. I suspect that's what's causing my loss of power etc...ruled out other things like fuel filter, air filter, injector cleaner, its an older 2006 diesel rodeo so not fused about getting it running perfect, but I'd the cleaner doesn't work I think it might be a removal and hand clean job...which could be a good learning curve. Thanks!
G'day Denmonkey and everyone else. I know this video is about the manifold clean but thought it was something you might know about: Just wondering if you or anyone else have encountered the DPF and Check Engine Light limp mode conundrum? It just happened to my 2007 NS 3.2 yesterday and I've spent today working out what to do. Short of replacing the DPF which is pretty costly, can I clean the DPF with a product similar to this? Should I also do this liquimoly decarb as well? Catch can? EGR chip? Do I need to consider diesel flushing? All new filters?
Finally, is there an OB2 tool I should buy that will allow me to actually clear the ECL and get out of limp mode so I can do my own 'forced regen'? As you might be able to tell, I'm a little unsure of what to do entirely, a bit nervous, and I might not be able to it all myself...but I'm willing to try.
As an aside, I just want to commend you on the fantastic videos you've put out. They have been instrumental in my decision to buy a 4M41 and despite this little setback, our 'Charlie' is an absolute cracking touring machine. Love it.
Keep up the great work!
Hey Joel, thanks heaps mate. I can't tell you much about the dpf though but I was reading a bit on the pajero forum with someone who had similar issues to you. Don't think there was a solution there as yet.
Suss it out though and just do a search for DPF. I've not heard of anyone cleaning theirs out DIY style or being able to force a burn off. I reckon there would be a way to trick it, but how, I have no idea.
I've had mine go into limp mode because I had left the OBD2 in auto mode for the protocol. the dash went mental. dials going everywhere. Once I sorted it and like in this video, I was able to clear the codes and reset it. There was no mechanical issue behind it though, to make it do it again.
Are you getting any other symptoms others than the engine light and limp mode ? What's making you say it's the DPF ? I had some loss of power issues a while back but it ended up being some vacuum hoses. I was about to go out and replace the sensors but figured start cheap. 5 bucks of hose and all good. If you get a result mate, let me know how you sorted it.
DENMONKEY - cheers mate! So the DPF light was the first to come on and before I had he opportunity to do the regen on the highway, the CEL came on and went into limp mode. I had Supercheap scan with a Bosch diagnostic tool and it came up with a p1489 code which is 'DPF Overloaded'. I've ordered an OBD2 Bluetooth adaptor to pair up with Torque or Car Scanner and I've also got someone attempting a force regen on Saturday (with a workshop grade diagnostic tool). Since posting here I've come across one guy who had the exact same circumstances and he managed to get the forced regen by ensuring the right settings were initialised, transmission and coolant temperature are at correct levels and the exact revs maintained throughout the burn off. Hopefully I can get it to burn it off and then clear the code. I think if it works I will then do a flush, change the filters, oils, and do this spray. Think I'll also throw in a fresh suction control valve while I'm at it.
I'll keep you posted.
tried this product over the weekend, works all right but have a question if you could help. my car is x5 40d twin turbo diesel, when I inserted the hose into the intake about 3-5 cm it felt there are some blades running , similar to put a straw over the running Fan, so did not want to push it too hard since I thought that may be the blade of turbo.
So my question is with turbo Diesel engine how can you insert the hose deeper to clean inside of intake and won't damage the blade.
Thanks
“May be a blade of turbo” I may correct you that turbo blade is before the throttle body and intake. Turbo -> Intercooler -> Throttle Body -> Intake. I suggest that you just spray it into throttle body directly.
PS: I’m not a mechanic, just some basic knowledge about car and it parts
that were swirl flaps of intake manifold
Iv used this product in the up keeping of my car . using many of there products I carnt seem to fault it . My car has 400 thousand on it an still going strong
Hey jayd, thanks for the comment.. I'm sure for an oil change soon and will be grabbing another can for sure.
Tried the petrol product on my wifes Golf Gti. I disconnected a vacuum hose on the manifold and sprayed it in. The car backfired a bit and threw a fault code. Took it for a drive afterwards and it was running quite rough for about 1km then started running smoothly and the fault light went off. Now i want to try it on my Pathfinder.
Body hell. Sounds like you world have been a bit worried through that process for a bit 😁. At least it worked out for you in the end. Cheers Brett
What your opinion about blanking off (put a blanking plate) the EGR? Here in Brazil lot of people did this and they said had some gain on acceleration. What do you think about this?
Greetings from Brazil!
Thanks for the videos, DM...although I own a completely different car ('95 Honda CRX targa - so obviously, petrol engine), I'm a somewhat recent Liqui Moly convert & I still like to see others' opinions re: ALL of their products...I own &/or have used all 3 of their fuel injector/petrol cleaner/conditioner/boost products, MOS2 Friction Reducer, Carburettor & Valve Cleaner, the 2 at-service engine oil contaminant flushes, MAF/MAP sensor cleaner & the petrol variant of this intake decarb' & although some will automatically say they're a "waste of money" or "placebo effect", I'd have to disagree with them 100% & having completed my entire apprenticeship working upon Hondas from '92-'97 (the exact same years that my CRX was built, so I literally know them back-to-front) at a Honda dealership in Melbourne, I know more than the average guy about my car.
Of course, there can be no doubting that some engines are just too far gone for ANY product to bring them back from the 'dead', so to speak but IMO this stuff is typically German (ie. it WORKS!) & that the real waste of money is buying a $15-$20 Wynn's (or similar brands, such as Nulon, etc) additive from the service station & expecting it to work at all, let alone work wonders!
Anyway, quality video, nice tip of the can for "dramatic effect" at the end, great iPhone diagnostic app's & happy 2019 to you, mate!!
PS. Oh, & I like the message upon the t-shirt too, 'bud' - pun intended 100%!!
Crikey Matty, that's the biggest message I've ever gotten. I agree 100% about some who pass comment with actually trying it for themselves. Whilst I take in all the opinions and info I can, I still like to try things out for myself. Sometimes you can read all you want but the fun and reality is in the doing.
Most I've heard from who have actually tried the products have had positive results.
Cheers for taking the time mate and happy 2019 right back at ya
@@DENMONKEY Haha, yeah sorry, legend!! I do tend to be rather verbose at the best of times but seeing as though I'm presently pretty much stuck in bed after undergoing major bone graft surgery upon my left heel (due to a 35-plus foot fall directly upon the concrete below 10 years ago now - btw, concrete has no "give", in case you were wondering!), I have too much time on my hands to write such long posts! Yeah, although I'm a tradesman who worked almost exclusively upon Hondas for almost 5 years before. getting out of the trade, I am ALWAYS all too well aware that there is PLENTY more to be learned - often from the most unexpected sources as well - & one can only carry out so much research & due diligence before you just take the proverbial plunge & try things out! But some people on here become so damn precious about motoring-related topics, as if you were spending their money &/or using the products upon their bloody cars!!
As for Liqui Moly products, I've traditionally been extremely cynical about additives & "miracle" cleaners but I really do think that their stuff is absolutely phenomenal. However, one's expectations must also be realistic, particularly when their engine hasn't been well maintained for years.
Jesus Christ, this reply was supposed to be FAR more succinct than the previous one!! OK, back to the 1st day of the Sydney Test for me now, mate!! Take care & keep the quality videos coming for 'bed-stricken' folk like me, eh?!
@@lavielemond all good mate. I've been known to be a little loquacious myself. It takes me forever to get these videos down to a watchable length. I have to be brutal when cutting out my ramblings .
Agree with all of that, including the concrete bit. Hope your noggin is on the mend.
I'll do my best to keep the vids coming, the hard part is coming up with content but I've got a plan this year.
No affiliation but I really enjoy the smartereveryday channel for learning new stuff. If you haven't stumbled on to it, you may find it interesting.
With so much down time and youtube access I think you will find yourself down the rabbit hole more than a few times.
cheers Brett
That loose thread on the heat shielding to the left of the intake just flapping around there made my eye twitch. If that had come off and been sucked into the intake you'd have had a bad day...
I'm gong to have to go back and watch now, as I'm not sure what you're referring to.
@@DENMONKEY @2:42
Hey Denmonkey thanks for the vid, mate just wanted to ask if the scan tool is for diesels also I know it sounds like a stupid question but it doesn't state it on the ebay ad?
I have the same pajero but short wheelbase and wanted to get one as my motor is running slow. At 80ks when I put my foot down it does nothing no kick back nothing just runs at one speed. Concerning and I thought running the scan may shed some light.
Again thanks for the vid.
Hey Wayne, my pajero is a diesel mate and it works no probs.
Just make sure you check the thread on the pajero.vic forum and that you choose the right obd2 protocol (under your vehicle profile) I use ISO 15765-4 Can(11 bit 500kbaud) . It's not as bad as it sounds. It's just a setting that you need to choose when setting it up.
when I used the auto setting it threw codes and caused it to go into limp mode. scared the shit out of me :)
Thanks Denmonkey, keep the vids up mate,
welcome mate and will do :)
Thanks for this mate. I ran a can through the car today and it seems better. Definitely isn't blowing black smoke under load which suggests it's getting more air and running leaner. So I guess it did the job. No white smoke or error light for me though.
How did you hold it at 2000RPM?
cheers mate. I had a tow hitch that i leaned on the accelerator pedal. I figure a brick or something would work just as well. I just looked for something heavy and placed in on the pedal
Use a diagnose tool
Hey mate did you finish the whole can?
yeah mate sure did
Just wondering if you have fitted a catch can or blocked the egr to prevent the black sludge buildup?
I have same NT pajero without dpf, and was looking to fit a catch can. But don't want it to restrict crankcase pressure. So might go with a provent 200 with steel mesh rather than the cotton type
Also, I was thinking to blank the egr, but actually have heard doing a full blank means engine takes longer to warm up. So many do a partial with 10 mm hole.
Anyway, mine has 250 000km and I physically cleaned out the egr pipe and manifold and whilst I basically removed half a cup of grease n carbon, I think that not too bad for so many km.
I might try the cleaner you did just before next oil change.
I've not yet mate . It's on the cards but plenty of other stuff to do and I'd don't know a great deal about them, so would need to do some reading first. Like you I'd want to get one one before I get around to doing an off car manifold clean. not much point for me before that. plus I'm running out of space under the bonnet.
Hello! I have a Pajero Sport 2, diesel 2.5. Today bought the same tool. In the evening I want to try. I wonder what happens ...
Have you had a chance to try it yet? How did you go?
@@DENMONKEY No, I have not tried. fearfully.
dont know if you have thought about it, will you be adding a catch can on in the future, i have a NT, 3.2L. i went with HPD catch can fairly easy install and happy to see its been collecting the oil
Hey Beau, I sure have been thinking about it.
I want to go a secondary fuel filter first though and was considering donaldsons but they seem to have some quality issues.
So I think a diesel care unit is in order. If you're running either, I'd be interested in what you have and your opinion.
Re the catch can I hadn't committed to any brand as yet. Probably a while off yet, but those HPDs look like a schmick set up.
I'd also like a second battery under the bonnet for the winch, so I need to be careful about how much space I have to spare for all these things. Of course, I still need to wait for the powerball win so I can afford all this stuff too.
That is a good idea I’ll be looking into that in the future, maybe see if wesfill or mann + hummel, with the catch can, mines a Manual with a snorkel but have it mounted on the firewall next to the brake booster but there are a couple spots, and prevent seems to be a good option to from what I’ve heard, I really like how you have set up your paj, given me some really good inspiration
@@DENMONKEY, Repco are now putting out a catch can, around $200 I think. If step downs are required for hoses add another $30 or $40 I believe. Don't know anyone who has fitted one yet.
Do you know if they are currently available? For 200 I think I'd try one
Go the HPD, worth the extra for the quality, got it on a 79series & works perfect.
Hey mate random question but what’s the running cost on these Pajeros? I’m interested in purchasing one but worried about the cost of Service, maintenance, fuel economy etc
Mate, hard to tell. I tend to do my own basic servicing, oil changes etc. I'm getting sind 12l/100km but that was around 10 before I stuck all of the plates on it etc and the bigger wheels. Parts week be a bit more expensive than Toyota because everyone makes after market parts for them. Insurance has been reasonable. That's about the best I can offer I'm afraid, but hope it helps.
@@DENMONKEY Thanks for the reply mate. Appreciate it
Welcome
would be good to do a trial on MUNJI and their EGR delete cable $119. I am impressed with having recently installed one !
Hey Derek, I've been running one since I got the paj. Like you I've been happy with it. When I got the tune recently they turned the EGR off as part of that. So it's no longer in the car. Thanks for reminding me I need to find it and sell it 😁. I can confirm they work though based on the torque app which showed the EGR as closed.
Hey mate I just did mine today and the engine light has been on since. Do you know if it will go away? And how long will it stay there for?
Hey Jack, its been a while but I think I cleared it with the obd2 reader. You can pick them up off ebay for about 15 bucks. get the torque app on your phone and you will be able to sort it
Just bought some on your recommendation. Followed the instruction video from the manufacturer and also bought some injector cleaner. Runs heaps smoother and idles better. Definitely has more pick up from lower revs so should have better fuel economy. Cant wait for the cleaner to clear to see the difference.
excellent Wombat . I'm glad it worked for you. I prefer not to think of what i do as a recommendation, rather than just sharing my own experience, so others can get an idea and make up their own minds.
I do love it though, when others post up that they got similar results to mine. I think the comments from those who have tried also helps others see the result I shared was genuine and not just a one off.
thanks heaps mate for taking the time to post back to let me know how it went. much appreciated.
cheers Brett
I am currently looking for for a MN or ML Triton to buy and this is going to be the first job I do on the vehicle. Seems to me that it is a regular service job that will give a diesel some longevity
I need this but does it can be used on Mitsubishi V46 4M40 2.8 diesel turbo?
Don't see why not but if you're not sure, check with the manufacturer
seafoam is $7 here for a 16 oz. can. that's what i use to clean my 07 f350 powerstroke. works great. just suggesting a cheaper alternative. also use in my oil as well before changing.
cheers Stace, it's about 25 bucks a can if you can find it here in Aus but it's not sold through our main auto stores.
You have to go online etc to get it.
I have seen many videos on it though and would be keen to try it out on some of my 2 stroke garden gear .
seems to get good wraps from those who use it.
cheers Brett
@@DENMONKEY damn....that's pricey. It's pretty handy for a lot of different things. fuel treatment and cleaning, oil treatment. hell I even use it to winterize my son's dirtbikes. It made a believer out of me on my truck though.
@@steveboggs9025 it's the Australian to us exchange rate.
will the check engine light go away by itself? or does it really have to be cleared for it to go away?
I cleared it as per the video. I don't think it would go away on its own but since I didn't leave it, I dont actually know.
can you use it on the carb 4d56? or does it only work for direct injection
Not sure mate, best ask the supplier but I'd guess it would be fine.
Does it make the car blow smoke while you are spraying it?
don't think so mate. Hard to tell, I was at the front spraying it :)
Did you applied after the turbo? If so doesn't it need pressure generated by the turbo?
no mate, it doesn't require the pressure from the turbo to work.
The can is pressurized and has a very small nozzle which applied the contents quite forcefully, plus the natural suction of the engine intake sucks it right up
Thank you for the answer but I mean you applied it to directly throttle valve (I guess the valve name is different for diesel engines) so basically turbo works during the process but engine is not using that turbo pressure it goes directly to atmosphere so my question is isnt it harmful for the diesel engine running without a turbo. I saw some of the people applies it right before the turbo after the MAF sensor but i guess the way you did is much effective.
I followed the instructions that I'd seen online. I don't recall where though. There were concerns that if you do it before the turbo and any rubbish that came loose might damage the blades in the turbo so it was best no to do it that way. Plus it was to remove the carbon which builds up at the intake and Egr etc so getting as close as I could to that to apply it made the most sense. I hope that's a better answer for your question 😊
Not sure I this has been asked? But what is the torque app? How does it work? Etc......
Michael, I'll do my best to do a quick run down for you in the next week or so. maybe even this weekend if i get time to shoot some video
Just did my MN Triton then drove around for about 30 minutes, then changed the oil. I drove the same route to the tip that i'd done earlier so I reckon it made enough of a difference that I'll add it to my oil changes from now on.
Thanks did the feedback Shane. Pretty much my feelings exactly.
Does engine light comes on aswell in your triton after the cleaning process?
good video mate now you have cleaned your inlet just get yourself a mann and hummel provent 200 oil catch can that will prevent oil vapor in the manifold and your egr soot won't turn into sludge
Thanks moose, it's definitely on the list as soon as I get together the funds. The list is growing though 😁
@@DENMONKEY the list will always grow to exceed the available funds but those provent catch cans are worth every cent
Got that straight. Yes have heard good things about them. A mate just stuck one on his ranger. Looks the dog bits
what was your final verdict on it after a week or two good or bad
still the same as per the video mate. Happy with the results I 'think' I got once done and will keep doing it each time I do an oil change/service
If it’s like the petrol you don’t need to do it each oil change every two to three is enough is what I was told by a Subaru specialist
Hi, i have touareg 2008 3.0 TDI and i got the warning light on EGR.
you advice to replace oil + filter after or before you used Liquimoly?
how much time it last?
after
change the oil after you use it. How long it will last, I can't tell you . there are too many variables to make a guess
Just wondering why Mechanic’s quoted me 1k for a decarb when it seems so simple?
Haulin, that would be for the removal of the manifold and to have it done properly. Doing this process simply can't compete with pulling the manifold off and physically getting in there and cleaning it. The injector pipes also need replacing every 4 or so removals, so they may be due too depending on your kms. Think of this more as a preventative type measure rather than a replacement for having it done off vehicle. 1k is on the high end but I've heard anywhere between $600-1200 but again it will depend on exactly what is required.
Dont trust mechanics.. learn yourself.
@@DENMONKEY there is always a method. Just like when we raced rotary engines nothing like little trans fluid in the carb while running cleans all carbon build up. Or watching idiots use ether to start diesel engines or cars with airmass meters burning the little rod no one sees wondering why shit breaks. Always do your research . Injection cleaners hurt the teflon on your injectors. . Just learn and read read read read and dont always believe every mechanic you meet.
I clean my throttle body and idle stabliser whilst the engine runs with flush in the oil during an oil change.
What was the fault code and whats the set up for the torque app. Cheers
hi, the fault code can be seen at 3:24 and is P0299 which says powertrain. This came up as I was revving the car without the intake hose connected. Seems an odd code but thats what is threw. check this thread in the pajero forum for set up www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=28002&highlight=toque+app&page=21
under your vehicle profile change the preffered ob2 protocol from auto to ISO 15765-4 can 11bit 500k . I had mine set to auto and it sent it into limp mode at a really bad time and threw codes. I had to turn the card off, clear the codes and then change the setting to get it to work. Mine is an NT model and that is what worked for me
Sounds like one of those "generic powertrain faults" aka the "something ain't right, fucked if we know what but enjoy your limp mode anyway" code. My Pathfinder did it after a batch of dodgy fuel, filter didn't allow enough through to maintain injector pressure so limp mode it was. Half way down a series of rock steps in the middle of nowhere...
Think that's sounds just about right Mike.
@@yozenfrogurt09 it's a manufacturer specific code. You would need a more advanced scan tool to see what it really was. The same code would be different between say a Ford and a Chevy.
Why did u spray it Infront egr not Infront turbo and intercooler ?
Basically, I just followed the instructions mate.
I'd also read peoples concerns about spraying ahead of the turbo may dislodge some contaminants and allow them to travel into the turbo whilst it was spinning. I wanted to make sure that didn't happen. Plus going directly into the manifold allowed the spray to be deployed closest to the area where it was required and would give the best results.
cheers Brett
@@DENMONKEY I'm going to try on my VW and I want to open the intake system just before the manifold but that will leave the turbo with no resistance, maybe that is okay. Did you leave your turbo just spinning out an open tube?
Thanks
He did it correctly, doing it in front of the intake is asking for trouble for your Mass airflow sensors etc
hi, i dont anderstand how you put that on the right side wher stands egr tht is end of sistem, on my car turbo is on left side, mas flow senzor, manifold..
this isn't meant to clean the MAF sensor etc. there are specific sprays to do that and this is not one of them. it is to clean the intake manifold . not the entire intake system like the turbo etc
yes, i anderstand tnx, one more can i spray on the hole in front of car on top of radiator wher air first coming to car or that just will al go to engine trough air filter. and will not go to whole sistem what you think?
@@van8365 this stuff isn't good for the airflow meter, so it has to be injected at revs, after the meter
Hello mate. I haven't used this product before, but I have used Liqui-Moly Diesel Purge Plus on a number of occasions, and that makes a noticeable difference. It seems to restore lost performance, lowers the amount of smoke and has a smoother idle and easier start up after use. Purge replaces the fuel lines straight into the engine, so it's like an IV? Anyway, my point is that while I am sometimes dubious about the claims that are made, Liqui-Moly seems to offer benefits based on our experience. Cheers mate.
Thanks Murray. My experience with their stuff has been positive and that's all I can go off really. Thanks for posting up mate.
You sound like a paid ad
@@dufus7396 I have always said it is easy to sell a good product.
@@DENMONKEY Dear sir
I used the same on ecosport diesel 2018 facelift after maf sensor but there is turbo after the same i used it on that 75% of that bottle but after that i saw very little white haze so in terror i stopped the process and also engine malfunction light having wrench turned on so i turned off engine and reconnected the hose to turbo after and turned on engine after 1 minute or so light disappeared.
Now question is did i do it right or wrong spraying it on turbo as there was only turbo after air filter and maf sensor?
If right then why theres white haze and malfunction light?
And if wrong how deep trouble i am in?
Please reply please
Thanks for your help
What was the scan tool that you used?
The was an bluetooth obd2 reader (ebay cheapy) here the link rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575403116&campid=5338330696&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fitm%2F2017-Vgate-V1-5-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-CAN-Scanner-for-TORQUE-Android-phone-%2F121448673471%3F_trksid%3Dp2349526.m4383.l4275.c10%23viTabs_0
and the torque app on for android
@@DENMONKEY do the scanners auto off or continue to draw power from the plug ??
May I use it on my mercedes ML350 BLUETEC turbo DIESEL ?
Hey telal , sorry mate I don't know. You would have to ask the manufacturer.
Used for diesel peugeot - everything is great. Go for it, but make sure you are buying cleaner for diesel engines
@@johndoedoejohn
I mean it will go through the turbine to the intercooler to the air intake manifold !
Long way !
was this a good idea? I mean, have you guys seen how much the intake gets caked up with soot thanks to the EGR? if those chunks break off and get into the engine, well....good luck
Until 2 days ago, I was yet to hear of anyone who had a catastrophic failure from this. I was speaking to a work mate who mentioned his friend who had to replace an engine in his pajero. It seems he was doing an at home clean and had a run away. the engine destroyed itself. I don't know the exact details , the product or how it was applied, but I will be asking him for that info when i get the chance. That said, most of the comments below seem positive. I think if this were the case though, you would see many more personal examples of it below.
@@DENMONKEY yeah...makes sense I guess. thanks for the reply :)
what were your symptoms before cleaning?
none in particular Goron. The car was just new to me (2nd hand) and I want to give it a once over to try and start with a clean slate if you will.
I had it to a mechanic who does the on car manifold clean and had priced that up to get done. Still might.
During my research I found this product and saw it at my local retailer. Based on the positive reviews I had seen, I thought why not, I will give it a try.
I didn't have much expectation for it, so was happy with the final result. It's still subjective but I think my feelings on it align themselves with others who had used it and shared their opinion.
I also did the diesel purge around the same time.
@@DENMONKEY I have a definite bog feeling at about 3200rpm. I believe the turbo starts increasing pressure within the clogged intake manifold. I've had two cans left over from another car but cannot find the long tube.
My car suddenly went into limpmode I think because it got to hot (no temp gauge) climbing an long hill, I turned around and let it roll down hill in gear running and let it cool down. I had to restart the car to get iut if limpmode and it has run much stronger ever since.
@@flashgordon3715 I noticed the car would not pull easily from lower gears and would bog down from slow acceleration. A EGR (anti pollution computer) sensor can clog and will set a car in limp mode, this can be cleared with a high rev run down a highway for 5 minutes (mechanic told me so). Have done this twice in the last 5 months and engine light for depollution clears. This is a short term fix and eventually it needs replacing. This also means the car's ECU needs a reset. I will need this soon but the EGR is worth more than the car.
@@DENMONKEY Hi there, thanks for your video. I am currently deciding on a inlet manifold clean. Harmonic clean quoted at $600. What is the on car clean and how were you quoated please? Thanks
We have the same watch.
they're bloody rippers aren't they. not much they don't do
realistically isn't this just send everything to the DPF anyway? like wouldent ya wana run a Regen or a DPF clean afterwards ?
My nt doesn't have a dpf
DENMONKEY soon non of us will ones synthetic diesel are available
Hi bro i want to know what kind of scanner do you use? Thanks
Hey Pablo, its just a cheap ebay obd2 reader. the same as this one ebay.us/RAlpx5
@@DENMONKEY legend bro.
Good vid. Was skeptical but might have to give it a crack.
Hey Mike,
yeah me to, but figured I'd give it a crack and was happy enough to roll the dice for 30 bucks. I wasn't planning on making the video on this one but thought why not. I'm sure others are just as curious as I was.
DENMONKEY nah good on you for making it. Always good to see someone else’s view. On point to note, I used to use Subaru upper engine cleaner on my outback which is a similar product, essentially decarbing solution. Thing is, they recommended to follow it up with an oil change, ie first step of the service as that stuff doesn’t mix well with oil and the combustion products do get past rings naturally. Not sure if it had a similar note on your can?
just reminded me, I checked that can before turfing it and no mention of an oil change.
DENMONKEY so I gave it a go today. Must say I agree. Seemed a little more refined during the drive after. Nothing huge but could feel it. Certainly more so that the stuff I used in my old Subaru. That was snake oil or at least the effect it had was. Also gave it a small squirt where the breather connects to the turbo inlet hose as that had oil streaks from the pcv.
excellent. so not just me then. It's hard when you do something like this to know if its all in your head afterwards. I was surprised how much was in the can. It just kept coming. I could certainly see it removing muck from the intake but only the first section which was pretty clean anyway. for 30 bucks I was happy with it.
Did it use less fuel after it
can't say I've notice any less fuel usage I'm afraid but with all the gear I have on it, plates, slider, solar panels etc, my fuel usage is up around 2-3 liters over a standard pajero
Have you tried FTC Decarboniser? I like to have your opinion on it. I have just started using it, let’s see how it goes.
I havent mate, but im not far off getting an off the car clean done on it
Thanks mate.
I did this on a friend's car.
Also suggest checking and cleaning the MAP sensor as can be prone to gumming up.
Be wary, these can chip off carbon deposits and score the bores or put the valve seats and faces. If you have a bad build up I'd probably suggest a remove and clean.
These sprays are more of a preventative measure for ongoing use.
By all means it's a good product and I noticed a good increase in power ( general term ) after map sensor cleaning and a full spray 😎
P😅😅😅
about to do this on my v10 tdi touareg. i didnt realize i had to do an oil change after, i just did my oil a couple weeks ago. with 12 liters of liquimoly toptec it kinda sucks i have to do it again but oh well now i know. i got two bottles off amazon for 13 bucks each since my tdi has dual intakes. not a bad price to add to a $180 oil change though. anyway i rather just delete the egr and dpf but the freakin tune is so expensive for this car for no reason!
haha yeah it stings a bit taking so much oil and especially puting in the good stuff. I keep my eye on supercheap and pick up their penrite 10L drums when it's on sale and just have 2 always sitting in the shed. a mates dad has the touareg and he absolutely loves it. I think he uses it to tow a van too but I'm not 100% sure.
Woohoo I am the 1000th Like.
Oh shit. Good work.
I would do it ever again. If the engine maintained ok but if you buy a car of someone and do this you can be up for top end rebuild. I would only use this product if i knew the car prior. Other wise forget it
I took off my EGR Valve on Amarok 2015 and cleaned it manually with this product. There was hard (almost impenetrable) soot build up on the valve that returns gas to the engine.
The rest of the egr was sooty but nothing looked bad.
I took off the egr hose and gave that a manual clean with a $2 bottle brush from bunnings and sprayed clean with this product.
My biggest concern is the HUGE sludge build inside the engine that the egr connects to. I rounded my fingers in there (with gloves on) as far as I could reach and have been scraping off thick sludge from inside the plastic cover (top engine cover) i don't have enough mechanical knowledge to pull this off to clean manually. I suspect my mechanic hasn't been doing the oil changes.
I've just cleared 100k so am doing my own services etc now
Have a look at Mr pajero's CZcams channel. He has a step by step guide on how to do it if you want to try
Nothing to do with oil changes.
Your car has a crankcase pressure hose(cant remember the name for it) which feeds dirty, oily, hot air straight into your clean air feeding into the throttle body. Youll be able to see it if you look at your air intaje, connects your crank case to the intake. Terrible.
This combined with the EGR valve means almost all modern engines are filthy and choking.
If you want to save your engine and have it run better for much longer than it normally would, get a catch can fitted(it filters this crankcase gas, very important especially when you see how much shit it saves from going in your engine, the direct cause of that baked on tar) and block off your EGR valve.
At minimum get the catch can. Every car with a crankcase to intake feed should have one to extend engine life and performance.
@@blastfromthepast7119 thanks man
take out EGR permanently and delete EGR code
Hey mate. I used this and it made me loose 2 psi in boost, did you experience the same thing?
Hi Declan, no mate, no issues at all.
@declan, likely because your inlet is breathing easier?
you didn't lose boost, you lost intake back pressure because the air being pushed out of your turbo now can get into the engine with less restriction. It's a good thing
Did it Blow up 6 months later?
nup, shes still running. ironically I got a off car manifold clean done and 2 weeks later its in getting a new turbo. :( not really related though, the air box was letting dust through. the turbo ate itself
They keep the diesel version under the counter so you have to ask for it.
great vid , can you tell us what that app is on ya fone champ
Yes mate. It's the torque app. Well wish the few bucks.
@@DENMONKEY thanks mate i found it ,just ordered tha adapter from ebay
What is that butterfly inside the intake?
You nailed it, that's the butterfly valve .
@@DENMONKEY what does it do?
@@eroffroad5438 it opens and shuts to alter the air flow into the engine depending on the throttle position.
As the car accelerates and uses more fuel, it needs more air and this will open up to allow it to flow through.
@@DENMONKEY my diesel doesn't have a butterfly
@@DENMONKEY it's actually to create vacuum on modern turbo diesels for the EGR to work. They are sprung loaded wide open and when the engine is not under much load they slightly close creating a vacuum.
Pls tell can it use XUV 500 car
I don't see why not but I don't know that car. There is a version of this for petrol and one for diesel. If in doubt get in touch with the supplier. They should be able to tell you for sure.
3 years later would you still do it?
Yes mate for sure. I've done it a few more times since. No issues. Plus the comments seem to mostly positive. Keep in mind I'm no mechanic and this has just been my experience.
@@DENMONKEY what I don't get with these engines is they don't blow smoke because it's all sent back through the intake anyway. Hard to know if it's improved it compared to old diesels
The trouble code p0299 is a turbo pressure failure it comes after a few kilometres later again. 🤣😂😁 Only for show
cheers
Hi I just did my TD42 Ti Patrol and it won’t run now.
That's no good. Keep me posted on what you think happened
Wonder's what he did?!? ^^^ It's no miracle cure and certainly will not free up 250,000km worth of EGR carbon but it helps maintain a clean intake if done regularly IMO ( I'd rather dose it with this every 10,0000km than remove and clean an intake every 150,000km !!
@@mjhmech4903 yes I'm curious myself. I hope he comes back with an update. I doubt it is a result of the product
dazza421970 Hey Danza, what ended up being the problem? Maybe we could all learn a bit?
so - stupid question - did you put back big black ruber hose on the metal thing ? :D coz i managed to forget about that and it sucked in some debrie in .... ( so now i have one less diesel car :D )
Once a year pull off egr and clean. That simple.. price free
Could do that.
I rate this stuff. I apply it differently though. Hot engine. Switched off. Disconnect the boost pipe to the intake manifold. Give it a good solid spray. Reconnect the boost pipe. Then let it soak for 10 min.
Restart engine( it’ll crank a few times and cough a bit).
Set engine revs to 2200 rpm.
Disconnect crankcase breather pipe that is on the air intake pipe ( pre turbo post maf sensor)
Spray cleaner ( rest of can ) slowly
Let idle for a few minutes then switch engine off. Let heat soak for approximately 1 hour.
Drive for half an hour at least and drive it fairly hard to blow out the crap.
Go home have beers and then following day change the oil.
Personally if I’m gonna spend $30 on a can. I’ll get the most out of it as possible. Got 240k on my tdi and it runs perfect
Hey Luke, that doesn't sound like a bad way to do it. I like the idea of letting it sit to do it's thing.
I'd say that could be more effective than following the instructions with it running, as it wouldn't have much time to work.
I'm gonna keep these up about once a year I think., just as part of my maintained schedule.
DENMONKEY thanks mate. I do this twice a year myself. Diesels are naturally oily motors. So not over doing it on higher mileage vehicles for me. Keeps tolerances happy. ( blow by , over smoking exhaust etc) FYI if you haven’t explored moreys smoke kill for diesels. Check it out. Every third tank, a strong dose is fantastic for higher mileage motors
I guess Liqui Moly doesn't recommend letting the product "soak", because of the risk of dislodging larger chunks of carbon deposit, which in turn might damage the cylinders
Gábor Bérczi agreed, yet in my case. I’ve physically removed my intake manifold and properly cleaned both manifold and ports , when I first purchased my tdi motor. So I know there’s no excessive buildup.
I'm concerned that if you start the engine with the manifold still damp with solvent, you can have a runaway engine.
Won't all the crap released go flying out through the turbo exhaust turbine?
Yep but it a Mitsubishi crap is flying through the turbo all day every day!!
needs a catch can, would stop all that return oil mist
That's on the list. But the list takes time and money
If you don't put your ccv back into your intake,,, that will cut the oil out of your intake. I know diesel is an oil but.....
Stupid eGr design makes them prone to carbon soot build-up on most diesel engines in general theres also a fuel tank treatment also as that goes thru the injectors and intake and motor etc also.
Have you tried any of the treatments? What were they and how did you find them?
Another issue is the pcv oil mist getting plumbed into hot egr and baking on there a catch can helps take that out of the equation. Think of that as the batter and the egr is the oven and you're baking a carbon cake in there.
@DENMONKEY...adjust your rocker arms, fuck they are loose
Never ever ever run that stuff through your intake while still attached to the car. All that shit you are cleaning out of the intake (carbon, dirty oil build up. HARD chunks of build up etc) is going through the cylinder where only diesel and air should be going through. You could fuck something up majorly. You want to do it properly? Take the intake off and clean it out manually and once clean and dry. Put it back together.
Hey Andrew, I have read a few posts etc that basically said the same thing. Whilst I was weary of such things, I figured If that was the case and it had actually happened to someone there would be something I could have found online. Plenty saying it would happen and warning about it but I'm yet to find an example of it actually occurring. If you read the comments to this video you will see a fair portion of them are positive. I'm yet to spot one from a user of the product that has suffered the outcome this warning suggests. I think the vid has around 60k views now. Pretty sure if this was going on, this would likely be a place where they would share their experience. With that in mind, I'm calling it good. I prefer to test stuff out real world for myself rather than relying on forum experts. Albeit they can be a valuable source of info at times. Thanks for the comment though, good to have a balance of opinions.
DENMONKEY I have heard the same too, I’ve see videos of how bad the carbon build up is and most ports being blocked up with only small holes left for air to get through.. ain’t nothing gonna get that off except some serious elbow grease, my guess is this melts off some stuff around the edges and maybe opens up the ports at the engine side by another mm or so, enough to give a small difference but nothing close to what you could achieve by doing it manually. Is it worth $30 for some minor improvement which may only last a week or so.. don’t know ?
Clean the intake line soot...
Whats its chemical content
No idea mate but I'm sure you could find it on their website
It's probably mostly solvents. The intake sludge is a mix of oil and soot- dissolve the oil and everything will turn liquid and run down the intake into the cylinders...
Put a can on it and you won't have any trouble.
it's on the wish list Gary. still waiting on my call from lotto
Just pull the manifold out and give it a proper clean
It's gonna happen soon
no man, that is a bad idea. here is the reason why--- if you have carbon build up, including in the intake ports. all that sludge will go through the engine, think about that stuff sitting on top of your pistons, cylinder walls. I have seen that sludge lock an engine after a cleaning like that. if you don't get all of it out, it will ooze down the intake ports and dry. holding a valve open or sit on top of the piston. both will cause damage
Thanks MJT. I'd read that on a few forums but I was unable to find any evidence that this was the case. Everything I found was theory and not tested. The only feedback I got from people who had actually used the product was from didn't notice any difference to felt an improvement. That was why I tried the product for myself and shared my experience on the video. Not saying it can't happen but if this stuff was killing engines as suggested by a few posts on forums, I reckon we would know about it by now. That's why i prefer to test these things for myself or speak to users of the products to get first hand information, rather than a guy who heard it from a guy whos cousin knows about some guy it happened to once. If you can point me to a post or some info that shows evidence of it happening, I'm more than happy to read it and for you to share it in the comments. After all, I'm not just trying to prove to people it works, but rather share all the info good and bad. Look through the comments though and I think the positive nature of them speaks for themselves. cheers Brett
Complete scam, did it on a turbo diesel Prado, 2 cans.
Complete wasted money. I removed inlet manifold and saw it did nothing
...
Should you !!!!!! ONLY IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETELY -UCK UP YOUR ENGINE !
Do you have experience with that?
I sprayed that snake oil in while flushing was running..I dunno..bit like buying pet food from China
dont know what's in it :)