How to use threaded screw inserts in Hard wood
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2020
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A screw doesn’t hold very well in end grain. On this project I decided to use screw inserts at the top of the table leg. Because white oak is very dense and hard I drilled the hole just a little smaller than the screw inserts. I then used an Epoxy and sawdust mixture to help secure the inserts in place.
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Jon, you have soooooo much more experienced than myself but sometimes, just sometimes we all get a good tip.
This is one I got from a friend. When threading in the inserts, sometimes they bust open from the inside when using a allen key due to the wood being so dense. Currently I lock two nuts together on the bolt, screw that into the insert, using a socket, I thread the inserts into the wood. That way you apply pressure from the top onto the insert and not to the inside, I have not had one insert break on me since!
Francois Fouché
Soften the wood fibers using liquid acrylic wood hardener before driving the inserts in. It makes it easier to thread them in and then hardens afterwards so the insert will never pull out. It works really well when dealing with screws or inserts in MDF as the MDF ALWAYS splits when a screw is driven in. The only danger is stripping the hole so sometimes you have to screw a screw in only partially until the wood hardener sets. It’s great stuff.
Great tip, especially creating the epoxy paste to help the insert blend in and hide any imperfections the insert may have caused while screwing it in. Those inserts have extremely coarse threads
Very cool John, using epoxy as an adhesive sure works well to anchor those inserts.
Thickening it with fine saw dust so it doesn't flow is a good tip.
Jon, I suspect many of us value these 'detail vids' on one slice of a project. I know I do.
Came for the woodworking. Stayed for the beautifully composed close-up shots. Thanks for the great video!
I am a senior architectural draftsman in Australia. I specialise in bespoke detailing. I love the creation of the recess with the Forstner Bit, so that after the epoxy setting the threaded insert, and sanding, you get the red ring around the insert. Beautiful. Details are everything.
I'll second that. It's these small details that make the project and inspire me to beautiful craftsmanship.
Hi Jon, hope you are well. Super job on the screw inserts, didn't know they could look glamorous but they really do! Too bad we'll never see them again. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍🖖😎📐🐶🦴
Jon your videos have been a massive help to me. Appreciated
Tables looking great! Can’t wait for the video.
Hi Jon! The details of the finishes were great! I will use this technique in my next project. Thanks. 🇧🇷
Great tip on the epoxy/insert method, Jon.
This video is timely and helpful, to say the least. Just yesterday, I prototyped a brass insert into spruce. The insert was the kind that takes a flat-blade screwdriver. I drilled the hole too small, and broke the insert when driving it in. Second-generation prototype: drill the hole larger, use glue (epoxy) to lube and fix the insert.
Jon, you are a master craftsman-on another level.
Thank you!
Put some Vaseline on the bolt to keep it from sticking to the epoxy. I like the idea of using epoxy for the inserts; never thought of that before. Another trick is to use acrylic wood hardener to saturate and soften the wood in the hole first before threading it in; then it hardens after the insert is threaded in. I would bet that used with the epoxy, it would work even better. Thanks for sharing.
Good job Jon, good information too. Thanks, Fred.
I think so much of woodworking requires patience and taking the time to plan and setup each and every step. This is what I often takeaway from your videos. For instance, the time you took to make the drill guide. The time to slowly mark with tape where the part goes back (vs me just marking a line in pencil or slapping on a single piece of tape that falls off).Mixing sawdust in the epoxy so it doesn’t settle. And everything is so CLEAN. So often it’s a rush to just make something and wing it because you just wasted 10 minutes trying to find where you put that drill bit you never put back after the last project.
This is what you reinforce for me and, I’m sure, many others. The patience to plan and not rush. Organize what you’ll need before you start. Treat each step as a mini-project and enjoy the process vs finishing fast. That joy (in the process) is why I became a woodworker. Thank you.
Killer tip and technique! Thanks Jon!
Superb detailed instructions. Thanks Jon
Great workmanship. Thanks for such uplifting videos. 🙂👍🇨🇦
Never fail to pick up very useful tips from you Jon. Plus your delivery is so good and so professional.
Harleymike/chicago
That was very neat Jon, Stay Safe !!!.
Great stuff as always
Excellent tutorial. Great tips!
I've installed threaded screw inserts on to the back of a Fender style electric guitar neck. I did this years ago and haven't regretted it. It's a solid fit and doesn't hamper the sound of the instrument.
Not sure why this is so perfect right now but it is. Thanks so much for sharing your skills. It helps so much.
Thank you
Threaded inserts especially the flanged head style are wonderful, but:
Inserts in the end grain ( can be ) a problem. If there is a load/lots of pull on the insert it can pull out of the end grain even in hardwoods. I would recommend using the longest insert available which I believe is a 1" length.
You can also drill a deeper hole and stack inserts on top of each other for more strength. Just install the inserts with both inserts on a bolt that you have cut the hex head off of to use for an installation tool. This keeps the threads aligned.
If a lot of strength in needed, another option in end grain is to use a long set screw, 1-1/2" or 2" length, as the insert. choose a set screw with an inner clearance of the hex hole slightly bigger than the threaded bolt your using. Using a wood or metal lathe or drill press, drill out the set screw on center and tap it. To install it use a tap that matches the outer threads of the set screw and then epoxy in place.
Thanks for the info Jon! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Those are really cool and handy. On my work bench I put a few for my bullet reloading equipment. That was they come off easy when I’m not reloading. I have older craftsmen Intermediate tool but I look all of it in. But them are so awesome.
Have you ever tried drilling and tapping like metal? I put some 1/4-20tpi bolts in drilling with a #9 rather then #7 for the tap drill size. Then put super glue (CA glue) in the hole making sure it cover it well then drive in the bolt. So far it was very strong going in above 1.25” of pine plywood I laminated together for a bench top to hold my air hose reel and another smaller Intermediate tool box bolted from the top only. It is my air compressor cart or ‘service cart’ in the shop. Recycled some only machine parts from work
Nice work!
Great video!
Está muy bien y va quedando super, saludos desde Argentina
Awesome job
Yeah Boyee!!! Snuck in first, & always great to see a video from you Bud!! Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!
Thanks Buddy!
Very nice!💜
Your work is always so beautifully done, from start to finish. I’m envious of your workshop and tools and btw, if you don’t have a home for the oak table, I’d happily take it off your hands😉! Thanks for the great video.
Excelente 👍, fin de semana!
A quick tip Jon..... just wax the threads of the bolt to prevent the epoxy from sticking to the threads.
@@ryk3899 I know what tips you like.
Cause he’s a fungi! 🤣
Everyone can learn something new
@@MrJKellerLewis That's right. The beauty of having CZcams channel is you get helpful feedback from your viewers.
JOHN SHOUREAS
Or Vaseline.
I respect you mister jon
Thank you. Learned a lot...cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
Thanks Jon
Worldclass woodeorker👍
Good work thanks many
Hi Jon great tips there , I put a very small amount of wax on the tread of the bolt/set screw then screw it into the inert remove it then insert the insert , I like to think it help keep the epoxy at bay ,
stay safe , G .
Thank you very helpful.
Lovely Oak.
very cool tip.
Thank you short and clear. If I may add a suggestion I have seen to stop the epoxy getting inside the insert one could apply it to the insert rather putting it in the hole.
Beautiful work
Thank you!
not sure why this needs to be so rock solid… love it anyway.
Nice process! May be you could wax the threads to keep the epoxy from making trouble. Greetings from Germany
Elegant.
If you put thread sealing tape on the screw you can leave it in until the epoxy cures
Jon, do you have a follow on video showing how you fix the table top? Thanks.
Jon Peters. The modern age Norm Abram.
Hi Jon,
I noticed you've cut slots in the cross braces to attach the top to allow for seasonal wood movement but the screw holes through the cross braces into the leg assemblies didn't seem to have much wiggle room.
Is that because you aren't expecting much/any movement in those two pieces or another reason?
Love the videos, both longer and these shorts, please keep them coming. I learn new tricks or techniques everytime I watch one. 👍
Interesting trick to make the epoxy into a stiff paste.
Thanks ya..no wonder mine just now poping out even apply epoxy
Could you do a shop tour. I live your building and am thinking about building something similar wit wood floor. Thanks!
Adding some grease to the bolt threads will reduce/eliminate the risk of the epoxy gluing in the bolt.
I guess it depends on how quickly the epoxy hardens, but there’s a simpler way of threading your bolt or screw into the insert and not having to worry about the squeeze out. Instead of threading the screw in and out, drill your pilot hole just a bit deeper and clean out most of the epoxy with a Q-Tip. Don’t fuss too much over getting all the epoxy out; you’ll use the squeeze out to your advantage. Once the epoxy has hardened, use an appropriate tap to cut a thread into the insert. The resulting thread will be tighter than the original.
Thank you! Do wood inserts have to be epoxied in?
Hey Jon. Curious if those are steel inserts or brass, and if you have them linked somewhere.
Thanks buddy; I love your content!
that measurement at 1:45 was way off on both ticks lol. Was that just for show or did you use those measurements?
It didn't matter in the end as he used the off measurements as a template for the legs
@@josephjoe9088 yeah, i understand that. Just why even bother mentioning a specific measurement at that point. I've seen enough of his videos to know how precise he normally is, so that's why i asked.
I had exactly the same question.....
@@GeminiWoodworks You are very right. I wondered at first until I realized what he was doing.
That surprised me as well, since Jon is normally Mr. Precision.
The cover photo shows a screw going into the wood grain from the top. I'm quite new, but isn't that a mistake due to the grain swelling and shrinking? I thought it was always best to go against the grain (might just be the case with pocket holes) to avoid the fibers strangling the screw in higher temps?
Hi, I'm not quite sure what the issue is with screwing into end grain. The shop I work for has been making furniture for over forty years and so far have never had any problems with screwing into end grain. I'm not criticizing your technique , but I would like to learn the background of this method. I'm still fairly new to woodworking (8 years professionally) so I like learning new, valid techniques. Thanks
Hello sir most of the time the adjustment screw remains locked inside for the removed we finds difficulty, are there methods for this type of screw when it can be removed
Where did you source those wood screws? I like the heads on them.
Hello John, super video John. I am trouble finding out which type of insert allows a screw to be screwed into the insert from the top. Apart from the T-nuts, which ones do this ? is it type D or type E or another type (I am from the UK), thanks. No one in UK seems to know the answer or has not answered !!!
Awesome video as always. I'll have to check out Brian's videos. If you recommend him, he must be almost as good as you at woodworking 😉👍
I've had trouble putting threaded inserts into hardwood endgrain - if the hole is too small, the insert won't thread in and in fact attempting to thread it in will either destroy the insert or split the wood. You mentioned that you used a 27/64" hole that was slightly smaller than the OD of the insert. Can you be more specific about how much margin you allowed? Would it be possible to drill the hole exactly the same OD as the insert - or perhaps just a hair larger - and let the epoxy filler lock it in place?
He drilled 27/64" and said it was only slightly smaller, I would bet it was a 1/2" insert.
Nice job, but what is the advantage of using threaded screw iserts, compared to normal screws right into the wood?
Screws don’t hold very well in end grain
Great video, are you using quarter sawn oak on this project?
Both quarter and rift sawn
Thanks!
So are your inserts 7/16" then?
I may have missed this somewhere but what type/brand of clamps are being used at 2:28?
Pony Jorgensen clamps
Maybe you’ve addressed this already, what’s up with the skillet on the wall?
Sometimes I use it on the grill.... the outdoor kitchen is nex to the barn
Jon, I'm having trouble with my inserts. They keep breaking when I install them. What kind of insert are you using? Carbon steel? Mine are going into a hickory table. Thanks!
Great tip in the comments from Francois Fouche above... "When threading in the inserts, sometimes they bust open from the inside when using a allen key due to the wood being so dense. Currently I lock two nuts together on the bolt, screw that into the insert, using a socket, I thread the inserts into the wood. That way you apply pressure from the top onto the insert and not to the inside, I have not had one insert break on me since!"
With the White oak be so hard and dense I drilled the holes just a little smaller than the inserts.... The threads barely catch.... the epoxy is doing most of the work
@@JonPetersArtHome ah - ok... I am tracking now. Thanks for the clarification. I think you mentioned that in the video... but it took the reply before I caught it. The "threads barely catch" part is what I missed before. So there really is no stress on the insert when installing it and the epoxy is the strength. Thanks very much. Pretty nifty. Thanks for sharing.
1:35 Are you really measuring from the edge of the tape?
It’s been a few years so I don’t remember but probably
💯👍
Whoever said money doesn't grow on trees hasn't priced clear knot free hardwood lumber lately.
Heavy breathing Jon!
I’ve heard this mentioned a few times. I didn’t notice it. Sometimes it pays to have hearing loss. 😁
We can provide it to you as soon as possible if it is suitable..
구입처
Watch him move the tape measure with his right hand as he marks the 2nd spot with now puts the measurement inaccurate
Sounds like Darth Vader was in the shop with you.
Pro tip - you can drill and tap hardwood.
Start by using proper inserts for the material, the ones with chopped thread are for particle board and other stuff like that and ones with full thread are for hardwood and plywood.
Sure, you have to epoxy them in place regardless if putting them into end grain, but anyway...
Okay send me the link to your video so I know what to do
Soooo. Epoxy 101.... Epoxy is very fussy about mix ratio, and you should mix the epoxy first then thicken. I point this out for anyone new to epoxy especially mixing in larger batches.
given it was mixed with an eyemeter, I guess it is a more forgiving mix. Yet, your comment is totally true - mix it 1st, add whatever later
Yeah screw inserts who needs them.
"I'll make a mark at 1 1/4" and 9 1/2, er 9 1/4, er 9 3/8, er ! Try nails, it's less technical.