thanks for the video and thanks for knowing your stuff. Also, thanks for less comments and BS and run on sentences vs others on YT. Video shot up close and one sentence is what most of us DIY's need. Nice Job.
Odd there are no actual lockdowns on the adjustment nuts. I've only done adjustments on newer briggs and Kohler V Twins but both have lockdowns to keep the adjusters from moving. Nice video' just much better to really see this job done than reading it in the Kohler manual. Thanks
I bought a C-160 wheel horse and cannot get it started, it pops like it wants too but nothing. could the valves stems be bottoming out so they are not seating properly? good video
Working on a k241 currently. It idles mint but working the throttle (full opens) and it sputters and bogs completely. Zero power at full throttle. I’ve gone through nearly everything aside from this valve adjustment and pulling the head off. Any thoughts?
Why would I be getting vacuum through the exhaust while turning the flywheel by hand? I got the crank and cam marks lined up and the valves set at tdc compression stroke. And yes I'm turning it clockwise.
The lifters in the kt17 are non adjustable. If they a loose about the only thing you can do is to have the valves replaced by a machine shop and they can grind the stem for the proper gap.
@@xOLDS45512x I bought an Allis Chalmers 917 tractor and the guy said the motor just went clunk,I checked oil and it was just over 1/2 quart low,filled it up and put a pipe wrench onto very front shaft and turned it clockwise,hopefully correct way,a few steps with my foot and it broke loose,spins freely,I would just like to know if 5w-30 oil is ok and should I put some pb blaster or anything into the cylinder before trying to start,I did spray a little carb cleaner into both of them.? One guy recommended Rotella 15/30 for the crankcase,how about synthetic oils.?
@@eastside0434 I would pull the heads off to inspect the cylinder walls before I tried to start it just to make sure it's clean and rust free to avoid doing more damage. Head gaskets are easy to get and I have a video on how to resurface the heads. You should run straight 30 weight oil.
@@xOLDS45512x I didn't pull the heads like you said to do,I tried to start it with no such luck,then I pulled the right head off and the piston does not move when turning crank, I believe the rod is broken other side is ok,but I am assuming it either need a complete rebuild or swap out,being a series 1 with no plug or oil filter plate,not sure if it's worth the money and time.
A question as to where exactly you are inserting the feeler guage...is it between the 1/4" shiny metal piece above the 2 nuts you are adjusting or on top of that and under the spring?
@@xOLDS45512x Yep, I figured it out. Thx. Once you have the desired space for each lifter, do the 2 nuts just stay in their current position or do you have to tighten them together to lock them into that position by turn each in the opposite direction?
My old set I got in the 70's was stolen about 10yrs ago. They had the numbers deeply engraved not just printed on them like most sets these days. If you ever see an engraved set like that grab them, these numbers come off so you keep buying more sets. Sucks!
thanks for the video and thanks for knowing your stuff. Also, thanks for less comments and BS and run on sentences vs others on YT. Video shot up close and one sentence is what most of us DIY's need. Nice Job.
Man that was good. I’ve never adjusted a K301 valves and you knocked it out of the park. Thanks
Thanks for not turning this into a 30 min video.
Mine is acting up when hot; checked valves thanks to you and they were out; thanks!
Glad I could help
@@xOLDS45512x Just finished adjusting them and went for a test. It was knocking when hot, now it is good; Thanks again!
Thanks, this helped out big time. My valves were way out of spec, but not anymore! Cheers
Glad I could help.
Excellent job with the video
Thanks for the video, I'm working on a 81' Wheel Horse C-105 and I just ordered my parts and will tackling this tomorrow.
This was perfect. Thanks
Very good! Appreciate the video
Odd there are no actual lockdowns on the adjustment nuts. I've only done adjustments on newer briggs and Kohler V Twins but both have lockdowns to keep the adjusters from moving. Nice video' just much better to really see this job done than reading it in the Kohler manual. Thanks
my first thought was that "this is a Hollywood production" and then the camera slipped !!
I bought a C-160 wheel horse and cannot get it started, it pops like it wants too but nothing. could the valves stems be bottoming out so they are not seating properly? good video
At time stamp 5:37 the rubber gromet does anyone have a part # mine was missing and not able to locate parts diagram for K 301 12 hp engine. Thanks.
thanks for the help keep it up
Working on a k241 currently. It idles mint but working the throttle (full opens) and it sputters and bogs completely. Zero power at full throttle. I’ve gone through nearly everything aside from this valve adjustment and pulling the head off. Any thoughts?
sounds like a clogged high speed jet.
@@paulg444 It was the points gap.
Why would I be getting vacuum through the exhaust while turning the flywheel by hand? I got the crank and cam marks lined up and the valves set at tdc compression stroke. And yes I'm turning it clockwise.
Off the top of my head the only thing I can think of is that the exhaust valve isn't closing the whole way or it's not sealing when it's closed.
How does oil get up into that valve area ?
good vidya
What about valve adjustment on a kt17
Series 1 twin..?
The lifters in the kt17 are non adjustable. If they a loose about the only thing you can do is to have the valves replaced by a machine shop and they can grind the stem for the proper gap.
@@xOLDS45512x I bought an Allis Chalmers 917 tractor and the guy said the motor just went clunk,I checked oil and it was just over 1/2 quart low,filled it up and put a pipe wrench onto very front shaft and turned it clockwise,hopefully correct way,a few steps with my foot and it broke loose,spins freely,I would just like to know if 5w-30 oil is ok and should I put some pb blaster or anything into the cylinder before trying to start,I did spray a little carb cleaner into both of them.?
One guy recommended Rotella 15/30 for the crankcase,how about synthetic oils.?
@@eastside0434 I would pull the heads off to inspect the cylinder walls before I tried to start it just to make sure it's clean and rust free to avoid doing more damage. Head gaskets are easy to get and I have a video on how to resurface the heads. You should run straight 30 weight oil.
@@xOLDS45512x I didn't pull the heads like you said to do,I tried to start it with no such luck,then I pulled the right head off and the piston does not move when turning crank, I believe the rod is broken other side is ok,but I am assuming it either need a complete rebuild or swap out,being a series 1 with no plug or oil filter plate,not sure if it's worth the money and time.
@@eastside0434 The rod breaking is common on the series 1. I agree that it's probably not worth putting any money into.
what does that little phillips head screw do to the left of the valve cover ?
It holds the governor in place inside the engine.
How can I check for tdc without taking the head off? Its hard to see through spark plug hole
When both valves are closed the whole way you're good to adjust the valves.
@@xOLDS45512x ok thank you
A question as to where exactly you are inserting the feeler guage...is it between the 1/4" shiny metal piece above the 2 nuts you are adjusting or on top of that and under the spring?
Between the end of the valve stem and the bolt sticking out of the top of the lifter.
@@xOLDS45512x Yep, I figured it out. Thx. Once you have the desired space for each lifter, do the 2 nuts just stay in their current position or do you have to tighten them together to lock them into that position by turn each in the opposite direction?
@@mackendw they will just stay where you set them, there isn't a jam nut.
@@xOLDS45512x thanks for clearing that up. Just watch another video where he mentioned locking them but never showed doing it.
yep I was wondering the same thing
Dumb question but how do I read the gauge
The gauges should be marked what size they are.
@@xOLDS45512x ohhh I gotcha these are worn off from use
My old set I got in the 70's was stolen about 10yrs ago. They had the numbers deeply engraved not just printed on them like most sets these days.
If you ever see an engraved set like that grab them, these numbers come off so you keep buying more sets. Sucks!
Never cover imo the most important part...how to find TDC...
Came here looking for help on a k161. Left confused