Can Am Spyder shocks Wilbers, Fox or Elka
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- čas přidán 24. 05. 2016
- Why I have choose Wilbers shocks over Elka, or Fox or Ohlins for my BRP Can Am SPyder F3s? Complain on stock shocks by BRP Can Am. This is only my pure personal opinion
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Author: Martin Pohanka
Music source:
Ice Cold by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution licence (creativecommons.org/licenses/...) Artist: audionautix.com/ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I am glad that I am stuck with the Elka shocks.
impecable ,je pensais que c'etait des shoks factory ... je ne connais cette marque en france
Ah man... at around the 6:30 mark I saw an orb. Interesting. Anyways thanks for sharing
Hi Martin I am a disabled rider and have just purchased a F3S like you video I find the shock very soft, I have found a Wilbers second hand one from the earlier model 990 RS and have the sizes, but on searching I can't find sizes for the shock on the F3S, I was wondering if you still have the old shock in your garage? If you did could you post the hole diameter the length the width etc. of the shock and any other sizes you can think that would be useful. I have a couple of friends that used to race so set up would not be a problem. Just did my first ride yesterday after the wheelchair adaptions my friend and I carried out. And all went well so looking forward to the next few runs before winter. Any help would be much appreciated. Keep the video's coming, Andy
Andy, please here is my cell phone number 00421902944669. Maybe we can set up a whatsapp call and i will measure whatever you need. Yup i have stock shocks at home, and i can help ypu with other things as well
Hi, Martin I will try and get back to you this evening via whatsapp I appreciate your quick response, I know you are 1 hour ahead so I will call at a reasonable time, once again thanks, here is the sizes of the 990 shock (345mm between hole centres 10mm holes
top and bottom bushes are 32mm wide
the spring width is 82mm), I'll be in touch,
Cheers Andy
My F3 rear shock is also now giving me the shits, I only weigh less than 85kg, my wife only 50kg.
When riding one up,I bottom out bad every now and then on simple ruts that the bike should be able to handle.
Two up I need to be very wary of those ruts as nasty bottom out does occur more regularly.
I haven't found a need to change the front shocks or sway bar but changing rear shock is a must and it never should have been put on the bike of this price in the first place.My Opinion..
I just came from meeting of spyders here in CEE.. there will be of course a video from this huge party :) but I have noticed few things.. 1st - lot of people were asking about my Wilbers, because we compared the stiffness in front and its a huge difference, when we were riding on twisty road, people just could not hold to me.. its a massive difference. like new bike... 2nd - you are absolutely right.. i was traveling behind another f3 on Alpine road, that the guy was just 1up and the back was complete sh!t. let me know if you have changed the rear shock... martin
where can I get that red signature light at ?
Ohh jeeez, this is like 7 y.o. video :))) but you need to buy signature light from brp and wrap it, that is tge trick i did at that time. Still have it wrapped, now in black, with bigger hole in midfle for tge light to come out
If you weigh 280 what spring rate should you have
These are pre-set up by manufacturer. You cannot just say the springrate, as it have many factors, like diameter, size etc... dont even bother with springrate on stock shock on F3,. Its garbage 🤷♂️
So, the whole story is rear stability issue and engine cut off when slide occur?
As far as Im aware weight transfer ratio is way up to the front axle on F3's (try reversing uphill on gravel, single ride, to get an idea how bad it is) - its a "safety first" measure to gain as much as possible traction on front wheels and not to allow too much power on rear.
F3 is not a sport/racing vehicle - its recreation one made for certain group of people age and ability restricted (older group, a bit lower reflexes, balance and such).
Further more, in order to gain more power transfer without engine safety cut off it is required to put more load on rear to make a friction better - even more, to get a better friction it is required to change tire type to extra soft (the one you got isnt the one, its standard I think).
Then it comes to the suspension set up - stiffer rear suspension without proper down-force (by drag or weight) will result worse handling compared to standard, means, by make it hard on rear, but without a proper passenger (big enough) its going to be definitely worse so you're locked to 2 riders out if you want to ride rough - not very smart.
If it was up to me, if I want to make F3 more sporty, I'll prob stiffer front suspension, replace sway or anti-roll bar (which you already did, I think), then replace all tires with racing ones, replace the air intake with some max flow type, cut off catalytic converter, replace it with just a pipe and replace petrol tank with special type (whys that - I tell you if you meet me in Austria), always remember to switch fuel mapping from eco to full and the hardest part - loose some weight myself :D but I would not touch rear spring and shock... and then I would stay at the race track, not public road.
All that if you're after performance.
If you;re after nice ride with you're passenger as I can see you have no added luggage, no extra heavy bits- just go and ride - dont waste your money trying to change vehicle into something it isnt ;)
PS. is there any difference in rear suspension between F3-s and F3-t, anyone?
good points my man..!!! honestly I am not trying it to turn into circuit beast because it does not make any sense as you said.. but i am standing fully behind about what I said.. rear shock is a joke on this bike.. i did change it and its absolutely different game now.. F3T has pneumatic suspension that you can adjust with some tools = not like on RT models by hitting the button.. there will be review shortly about comparison of f3t ans f3s..
Well, now, since I meet you and ride after you - rear shock and all new shocks makes more sense :D, specially in lunatic ride downhill :D ...anyway, all three wilbers ordered here but my upper comment stays for average users...
Our rear shock busted after 1000km of highway with 2 passengers, like 100me+55her+20luggage (175kg total of 199 allowed) ...means crap quality.
:))) let me know how happy you are.. and another point, I was driving for few km, on DelBianchi f3, and here is one comment. It was so hard to turn, and I think the reason is the sway-bar. Mine is like a car with power steering wheel and his was like a car without it.. I am so happy about the upgrade, but was not really realising it before.
Im backing you up on this, suffered the same issue on hard to turn on tight corners low speed or high speed on any corners, even more, a 3500km trip created a loose steering column due to a force I was applying to make it take a turn probably, need to sort it out as well...bad BRP, bad...few more things to change added on the list, it getting longer and it seems it never ends... :O
my friend it will never end... i am just changing the gear switcher coz its bad - its harder and harder to downshift... BTW in US i have read, that guy used warranty to get better shocks at back - stage 2.. and it was approved.. I mean good job done by him.. but what the hell :)))))
The acoustics in that room are terrible. I suggest u don't record videos in there Buddy. Peace.
Yep you are right.. this was one of my first videos, just done with GoPro and ever since then I did the work differently :) thanx for the advise anyway, Martin
Sorry Bud, I had no idea it was one of your 1st vids. It was a great vid, very informative, I only mentioned it because I struggled to hear some of what was being said. Great work though Bud, keep it up.
(no need to reply, just wanted to say sorry)