eBike charger / power supply - How to modify them and save money!
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2019
- #ebike #charger
It's a little known fact that these Chinese chargers can easily be modified to output up to 108v. Obviously, the limiting factor is the physical ability to deliver an adequate amount of current but, for an emergency, it's a brilliant solution for range anxiety!
2A charger (240W) which is identical to the silver one I have. You can ramp it up to 84v & 2.8A s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bxfcQhjE
4A charger (360W). You can ramp it up to 84v & 4.2A s.click.aliexpress.com/e/caPhNpGG - Věda a technologie
I saw this was made 2 years ago and used it today. I have the exact same silver charging that I needed to lower the voltage on. Thank you.
The reason why these chargers are derated (typically by about 20%) is so they actually last a couple years vs burning up within a year. If your charging conditions are ideal (15-20 Celsius, good airflow, fans working, not run for more than a few hours at a time) the charger might last several years without burning up but the second the charger ends up in hot/humid environment or gets left on for 12 hours and a fan burns out you're likely to lose your charger and hopefully not in a way that allows an unregulated charge to enter your pack.
I would highly recommend adding a bigger fan or an external fan if you want to run your charger at 100% of its rated output.
Remember, a Chinese rated 360W is 240W so if your charger doesn't contain any of the safety ratings typically seen on electronic devices then consider it to have a Chinese rating. If it has the ratings and they aren't bullshit slapped on the case then fair to say it can likely handle its rating if operated in an ideal environment.
Sick I was just wondering if I could do that I got the same charger don't touch the other pots tho unless you have the electronics to measure them i did and it exploded in my face all the transistors exploded and even the fuse panel exploded and it was like a gun going of twelve inches from my face scared the shit out me
So after being a complete beginner in ebike and learning to wire it up from this guy my charger is playing up seems like he has a fix for that too good man Tony
Video helped me figure out which pot was which. This is really good info, basically an adjusted PSU now.
Thanks mate. I have been looking for a decent cheap charger for my 48/52V battery. I ordered a 4 amp charger about 2 minutes after watching this.
Better be good! :P
I've used this trick on a couple of chargers already and I'm about to do it to a third so that I have a slow charger as well as my fast one for my ever-evolving AWD e-bike. I managed to get a 72v (84v full) charger to fully charge my 76.8v 18AH LiFePo4 pack and previously managed to get a 76v charger to work on a 52v battery by lowering the output voltage on it. Saved a boatload on buying the right charger not to mention 24S LiFePo4 are quite hard to get compatible chargers for if you're not willing to tinker!!
Really useful information Tony.
btw, I got two DPS800 800W server PSUs off ebay for about 25 quid each, and modified them to isolate the -ve from earth and to power on automatically. Then soldered two 10 AWG cable and 5.5mm bullet connectors to them, and made an adapter plug to XT90. I did this so I could run them in series or separate as desired.
Can now do 24V at 80A and max out a 1000W Antimatter charger, up to 10S. Though I do 14S in two 7S sessions and can charge at 30A.
If I get another Antimatter charger, then I can use both at the same time with each PSU and do up to 20S in-situ because they're both isolated, but because of 12V input they'll only do 500W each, but that still means getting 1kW into the whole pack at once.
If I get another two PSUs then could run both Antimatters at the same time at 24V and charge up to 20S at 2kW, and it'll only be another £150!
Server power supplies are the way to go mate. I've got 2 x HP 12v 120A power supplies but the trouble is, I don't use anything that needs them now - all my RC stuff is charged through solar and the bike needs its own power supply now ☹
I have a similar setup.
Thanks for taking the electrocution risk and showing us this tip!
That was very interesting Tony. Thanks for the tip and how to save money in the long run👍
I don't think the manufacturer will like the video mate 😂
@@Vortecks if your help Jo Bloggs to save money Tony, then tough shit to the manufacturer.
i have an identical charger yewy uy240 48v 4 A. im having issues with it as when i measure the voltage at the terminals of the charger when connected, it shows 60v , which way over the sepcs set by the manufacturer that says it shouldt be over 54,6 v. should i just open it and twist the blue thing till it measures the factory standards voltage?
have a 58.8v battery and only an 54.6v charger and this worked like a charm 👍
Wonder if it works *backwards* - have *two* 58.8 chargers, and I wonder if I can turn one of them down. (Would be a good upgrade for a friend’s bike).
Excellent video mate! I have one of these chargers and want to set it so it doesn't overcharge my new li-ion battery. I'm going to watch it again to see if I dare to adjust. It would be great if I knew which thing to turn. My power supply says 84 volts.
Vortex... I thought I was slick, I bought the bare aluminum one with 36v 5a for $30 so I can tune it to 84v, I open it and what do I see? A 1000uf 63v capacitor and a bunch of smaller ones...what caps do I need to change to 100v and did you ever find out which of the 2 is constant current?
What the voltage adjustment range of your demo power supplies.
we only have 110v in our mains, it is a mere tickle compared to 240v. 110 will kick you off, 240 will make your muscles tighten up and hold you there. been nipped by both. it's the amps that fry you. thanx for the info. i kinda suspected as much, but it's nice to know for sure.
This is great thanks.
I'm wondering if a hybrid all in one charger/inverter I recently purchased for my boat will have the same adjustability.
I have some 16s lithium ion batteries I'd like to use so need to bump up the dc output v on both the mppt charger and the ac c
harder built into the unit
The unit is a 48v nominal one
Good I have a charger like that and I want to change voltage. I have achieved that but I do not know how to put it to start charging, put the two red lights on and then when the green reaches the load.
can you do that adjustment to the ebike controller too?
Mine doesnt have the wattage inside. I have the UY360 and it is o 58,8 on 6A. Can I get more amps out of it?
Thanks
How far down down will the chargers go ? Can I turn a charger down to 4.2V to use for balancing ?
Is it ok to use a 52v charger for a 48v battery and rely on the battery's BMS to cut off over charging?
If you bump up the charging output amps much beyond 2Amps, on many chargers you need remember to also change the output connector from the typical 2.1/5.3mm coaxial (barrel) connector used on "2A" chargers to something more rugged. Some 2A or 3A chargers use a slightly larger coax connector because they're cheap, but even those remain limited to about 3Amps.
(note: I'm talking about the simplest design coax connectors that use a point contact leaf-spring as the connector to the exterior of the male connector, and a solid pin as the connector to the hole in the middle of that male connector. There are design variations of coax connectors that can handle higher current by designing connections with more surface area between the male and female connectors (both neg and pos contact areas), but when using the cheap ones, 2 to 3A is it. The cheap ones basically provide a single point contact between the negative male and negative female connectors...the connecting being *_similar_* to a knife edge sitting contacting on the side of a nail. There's almost no metal to metal contact there.)
10:21 Dit-tanium or Tit-tanium🤣 Thanks for the info and the laughs
the smps i squeaking that is theres a feedback issue, op amp is fried lm358 or similar utc series
hey greeting from the states, my charger stop putting out voltage ,the red light still blinks like its charging but don''t turn green when fully. and it only blinks when it's plugged in the bike side ,not the wall.
i know the circuit have juice cause i just touch the heat sink with the mosfet....luckily i don't have a pacemaker
i got a super cheap one on aliexpress, tbh i do watch it closely. but the ant bms is so good i never really worry about it. the only issue i have with them though is, theyre so damn inefficient. mine must pull about 100w+ more than its putting into the battery from the wall. Im tempted to get a server psu and boost it up. it would probably be more efficient
Great tip, going to check out my 36v charger.
I found your channel due to the VBMS and went throug all your V3 playlist in 1 go. But couldnt find which fork do you have on your ebike? Currently starting on a rebuild of my ebike battery, going to include a BMS this time. I have been balance charging it till now. I will get your VBMS app.
Rob n/
They're Rockshox Boxxer forks mate - I bought them second-hand but they hadn't been used. The owner decided they were too low for his bike.
I got the YL- 240w. Need to droped it to 14.5v . Does anybody knows what resistors are part of the VOLTAGE DIVIDER NETWORK? Its only one place (r30) I got 2.9v, I cant find the 2.5v. voltage divider resistor. Thanks in advance.
What app is being used to check amps?
Exactly the info I needed...
I have a 72v lead acid charger but I want to make it 72v lithium charger can u help.
Please Wate cahrger R32 resistor value ? located next to the red LED
thx alot man u helped me save 60€
great videoooooooo
You're very welcome 😉
Any idea on mine charge. The one I have is a 54.6v stock one and it only had a 63v cap since I wanted to use for 84v I put a 100v cap that I had. I get it to charge at 84v but never above 1amp. I can get the amp adjustment to go down but not up above 1amp. I thought maybe it was the cc CV adjustment but I got that down to when the light changes color and then fan turns off and then brought it back up still not able to get above 1amp which is no where near 240watts. Any ideas
Same here,I got the same one but 36v 5amp, I needed it for 84v but there's a 63v cap I got change and probably the the small 50v cap, did everything go as planned?
@@ShizMurderBeatz I got it to work with 100v cap but not sure I trust it
Great stuff mate. How about demonstrating how to convert Mean Well LED power supplies for use as chargers. They come fully potted with long warranties and are reasonably cheap.
Those are awesome!
If they're fully potted, there's no way of converting them. Oh.... you mean they have pots all over them? 😂
I'll have a look - I have a 12A 20A one somewhere 😉
@@Vortecks some models allow external current/voltage adjustment. Also, more than one can be used to get higher power output. They call it the poor man's cycle satiator on Endless Sphere, which appeals to me, as I'm a cheap Bilston bugger ay I 😳
I have one of those wate psu`s but both lights are blinking and it does not work...
Thanks, great video!!
Thanks mate! Based on your video I tuned my 16s charger to 18s :) Layout of internal board is diffrent, however i spotted voltage regulation. I have a question regarding remaining two potentiometers, one is responsible for current in CC part of charging, how about the last one?
Cheers!
Last I checked - it sets the threshold for the charging LED. Or at least it did on the charger I did it on. adjusting that pot would make the LED change state at lower or higher currents.
@@DigBipper188 yes, indeed, it sets current where the charging ends. Thanks 😀
I'am very new to this a love learning more about it..I have a high powered ebike 72v battery which cut off charge should be 84v ??? dose the changer balance out the batterys at that voltage ????
no
you need a bms to automatically balance your cells
@@sandy1234853Thank you for your replay sandy.. when i part charged the battier to 95% i started having all sorts of problems with them like error codes and half the range but now i fully charge its all ok again???
@@funfunkydiscosdjstutz1100 this can be due to some bms systems only starting a balance if the cells are going over 4.2 volt if your never charging to that volatage the cells never get a chance to ballance and over time they can get all out of wack its best to fully charge your pack if this is the case as you may do more damage then good but only partilly charging
@@sandy1234853 Thankyou Sandy for that info i will just fully charge from now no..
Again thankyou for your help.
Thank you sir! That is a service
Hey there, I have a similar Chinese charger. It's currently set to 58.8v. With my new battery configuration i would like it to be set to 50v. I tried turning the pot down but it stops at 50.6v. Is there anymore modifications i can do to it?
Do you have a BMS fitted? If so, the BMS will protect things when the cells reach 4.2v.
Can I safely supply 230V dc to the charger? I am working on a project where I don’t want to convert the dc back to ac and I was wondering if it would make a difference
In theory, yes you can. When you feed a power supply with 230V AC, it uses a rectifier to convert it to DC but there is always a voltage drop on the other side of the rectifier. The components on the other side of the rectifier, might not be rated for these voltage and it may blow them. Without following the full circuitry and confirming that these components are all safe at a higher voltage, I can't confirm that it won't blow something but, as I said, in theory......yes, it's possible.
240V......means 380V DC on capacitors. What is the 3th potmeter for?
What about cut off voltage? if I boost output, but keep cut off the same is it going to charge to higher voltage? Is it ok going from 54v to 58v on the same battery?
It shouldn't increase in voltage....but its possible it might. A true CC CV charger is constant in both current and voltage but if you use a normal power supply you will see that increasing the current increases the voltage. Your batteries max voltage should never be more than max cell voltage multiplied by the number of cells in series.
Just got my Wate 58.8v 7 amp charger today. After opening the case I noticed the board was marked as 360W. If my math is correct the max amps should be about 6 amps. Should I turn down the current to 6a to be safe? What could go go wrong if you exceed the 360W power rating?
Correct, it's able to deliver 6.1A @ 58.8V. The 360W is a a designed maximum wattage and it'll probably burn the traces or components if you push it higher. You're the first one who is sensible enough to think of turning the current down to preserve it.......well done 😁👍
@@Vortecks Cool, Thanks. I wouldn't even have thought about it if it wasn't for your video. And the bit about adjusting the voltage, that saved me so much headache with my other charger.
Hey Tony I got one of these chargers that's 84v 3a output and I need a 24s charger that doesn't cost 300$ do you think I could turn the voltage of my 83v charger to 100v or do you think it will blow up?
Mine goes to 100V without problem mate. The capacitors are only rated to 100V and so are some other components and it won't physically go above 100V anyway.
As long as you stay below the rated wattage, you should be ok (e.g. if it's a 240W charger, you can only go to 100V divided by the wattage = 2.4A)
@@Vortecks I set it to 101v because I plan on upgrading my battery to 24s. And it's reading 101v on my volt meter should I turn it down since you said there only rated at 100v
Thank you
There a generic design then simply tuned to suit the application - The current limiting factor is the transformer - they run about 86% efficient so the charge current for any voltage selected will be 86% of watts of transformer div volts output set - just watch your output smoothing caps can cope
Hi all, I recently purchased a wisper ebike conversion kit 575Wh with a knackered charger. Do any of you know a cheap compatible charger that I could use, thanks in advance.
Are you able to change the charge plug yourself? If so, what voltage and current does it output? (It'll have something like 48V 3A or 54V 1.2A etc.)
If you let me know, I'll find you a cheap alternative.
Tony
Nooo!..
Sorry Tony, just because the silk screen says 240 watts does not mean that PCB has been populated with parts that will support the max rated current / voltage of that pcb design!
They use the same PCB with different components for all sorts of specs.. so quite often you'll find the 48v charger has 63 volt caps so if you go winding up that charger to 84 volts..
Magic blue smoke is likely to appear.
Now the safety police have been, it is fair to say that most decent manufactures will have some space capacity to keep things running cool and below there max as per the example above so you have some room but please don't just wind it all the way up unless you know for sure.
As for your two chargers can I suggest you setup the 2.5amp charger as an overnight normal usage charger that charges to 90% SOC.
Or if your feeling super adventurous get a multi way switch, and setup different resistances on the different switch points and wire it in so you can quickly select different voltages just by moving a switch.
I have an e charger for my kaabo mantis scooter 67.2v 1.75a. But keeps blowing fuses everytime i plug it in.. what else can i use or make to use as a charger? Thanks
Stupid as it sounds, have you checked to make sure you're plugging it in correctly? Some chargers must be plugged into the battery BEFORE you plug it into the wall, some chargers are the opposite way around. If you still have no luck, this one will do you 😁
www.aliexpress.com/item/32717000756.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.5.38c41715MiZEEX
I,ll give that a try mate, only had it a few days for a steal. I did however take a reading from the AC lead not connected to the AC/DC charger and all was good, 232v 15ish Amps. i then plugged it into the charger, took a reading from the G-16 3pin connector, and nothing coming out. But i will try the method you mentioned. thank you and keep projects coming.
Interesting stuff. I have a similar 36v charger on my bench at the moment opened up. I have one charger with 3 of those adjustable yellow pot looking things and two chargers with just 2 of them. All else looks pretty identical.
Do you or anybody else know what components fail and stop the charger going into float? This has been a reasonably common problem that we have experienced which ends up cooking batteries. For medium sized 36v golf carts with AGM batteries.
Please don't thing that 'any' power supply can be converted - this is only specific to the ones I've shown. If you're going to try this, at least make sure the capacitors are rated to the voltage you need.
If they charge but don't go into float, I doubt if anything is faulty. It's probably needs calibrating.... I'll try to do another video which will explain how to calibrate them whilst they're charging.
Vortecks Great thanks. It’s just that the chargers tend to stop going into float after 6 months or so of weekly charging so I thought it might be a component failure. Some are fine but others seem to fail with age.
I myself am not planning on changing the voltage of the charger, just came across your video while looking up Chinese chargers. I have a heap of chargers that are not going into float and have damaged batteries. They are very similar format but are larger with a seperate board with a relay attached.
Float is the last cycle of lead acid/AGM charging that isn't used with Lithium Ion. Lithium Ion does not self discharge anywhere as fast as lead batteries do so the float charge would eventually overcharge lithium ion. The self discharge rate of lead batteries allows you to use a CV with a very small current. So it's similar to the last phase of lithium ion charging, CV with variable (decreasing) current but float is the lowest current level seen at any point. If the charger ends its absorption at 0.5A then the float will likely be well under 0.5A. I'm not up to snuff on lead voltages so here's an example with random numbers
1. Bulk is CC at 10A until a voltage of 13.8V is reached
2. Absorption is CV of 13.8V with the the current starting at 10A but dropping to 0.5A
3.Float is another CV phase with the voltage potentially set a bit lower or equal to the previous stage and the current being equal to or less than the previous stage. So 13.8V at 0.5A would be your max.
I think you are right about there being some kind of component failure. I would check a known bad charger to see how it goes through the charge phase. My guess is the amperage never goes down low enough and is overcharging batteries by keeping the current too high. Could be as simple as the CC pot going out of whack
Hi mate, I've got one of the smaller ones, 240w. The other day I turned up the current just for a few seconds, and it got all the way up to 500w before I turned it down. Is it likely just cooling that limits the output on these do you think? I don't see much difference with the larger one, other than more aluminium and a bigger fan. Perhaps I could turn it up to 300w and upgrade the fan. What do you think?
Also, just out of curiosity, could you send me the code on the MOSFETs on the larger one?
Don't go above the markings on the PCB or it will cook it.
Usually, the only difference is a better cooling but sometimes, they add additional FETs. I'm sorry mate, I don't have the larger one anymore.
@@Vortecks Thanks for getting back to me. I saw that you had the Water brand ones, so I got the same one. Works a treat. :) Keep up the good work mate.
Anyone know how low the voltage can go?
Hi, can anyone give any give me some advice with, what size resistor gose in a XLR4 plug that has a 36v/42v 2.0A charger. Positive + cable gose to no1 pin.. Then theres a resistor from no1 pin to no2 pin ++.. No3 pin nothing connected.. No4 pin is the negative cable - -. But not sure what colour resistor is needs to get the correct resistance ie 1k ♎ . Does anyone know what resistor or would someone be able to undo the screw on there 4 pin plug and have a look what colour the rings are on the resistor. Thanks 😂😂😉😉👍👊👊
so it's basically cc cv buck converter with full bridge rectifier?
oh okay you talked about it in the video :)
Hi, if one of the pots regulates voltage, other one regulates amps, what does the third one do ?
It adjusts the trickle charge point where it drops the current. Sadly, I couldn't explain how that one works (I did try, but I made it sound very complex).
@@Vortecks oh I get it now, thank you so much for responding.
Awesome info dude :)
Anything to help save people some money :)
Hate the on board trim pots they use. Much happier after rewiring a ten turn on to the board.
very vague question that has a lot of factors to determine any answer ,but in your experience alone ,if a battery is about 530 watt hours powering a 1kw motor ,what range would it have with ONLY throttle control ? new cells about 90kg rider ,brushless hub motor etc, tempting to see if it can do 9 miles for a trip ,but i dont wanna get stranded haha
A 1000W motor will give you 30mph. If you're on flat ground going flat-out, it'll give you 0.53 hours of runtime. That equates to 32 minutes which (theoretically) should give you 16 miles. But..... it's doubtful if the battery can handle 1000W for 32 minutes - to be conservative, I'd say 50% of the run which equals 8 miles. If you drop your speed to 25mph, you'll be using around 700W which will not only take a lot of load off the battery but it would easily do the 9 miles.
What I suggest is..... do one run at 20mph, and calculate how much your charger puts back into the battery (using a watt meter plugged into the wall) and then, increase speed accordingly.
@@Vortecks yh because when ive done around 7 miles on the bike the motor will cut out for half a second now and again if i full throttle it, being a 48v battery not a 52volt i suppose the BMS dosnt like the voltage sagging too low for the full watts,so 50- 70% throttle will def be a better choice( only a cheap chinese thumb throttle but i might make some kind of a stopper on it made out of hotglue to limit amount i can press down,i dunno lol
what if i need 83.16 volts dc output to bump up my 60v20ah LEAD ACID battery charger that looks exactly like ones here. However the Capacitor on the DC side of the board is labelled as 80v and 470uF. My current measurement is 69.3v to charge 5x12v20ah sla batteries in series! ...So im assuming the charger considers my 12v batteries are actually 13.86v hence the output is 69.3v right? Now its a 3amp 240w charger so i would also prefer bumping up the amps if need be back to its rated 3amps....or will it only slightly extend my charge time to reach full charge if i leave it at its assumed lower amperage after increasing the voltage trim pot??? if anyone is knowledgeable please confirm my math so i can proceed or need to spend another $100 for a 72v 20ah charger from amazon!!! id rather not have to really!!! im only concerned about the capacitor showing 80v on the label and i need an output of 83.16v to charge an extra 12v cell(13.86v) making it 83.16v so 3.16v over the 80v capacitor label....will it blow up or catch fire??? or damage my battery bank??? PLease Help...i need to know before i add the extra cell...i dont think spending an extra $200 to gain a few km/h it wouldnt really be worth it anymore at that cost!!! I would be truly grateful for anyone's pro help with my dilemma!!! THANKS YOU !!!!!
You really shouldn't rely on the BMS in the first instance to moderate your charge - if you race up to the cut off at high current you can overwhelm the balance bleed resistors with excessive headroom - set the peak voltage to 4.2v per cell li-ion and 3.6v lifepo4 - the charger will then go from constant current bulk to constant voltage near the end of the charge - it's not coincidence that electric cars can rapidly charge to 80% then top off slower.
Being a Chinese device, do you have any reason to believe the specification printed on the charger PCB ?
BOB! Not heard from you in a while :-)
Yes, I do believe them on this one. I've tested both power supplies at the full wattage and I think they've been conservative this time.
@@Vortecks i have an identical charger yewy uy240 48v 4 A. im having issues with it as when i measure the voltage at the terminals of the charger when connected, it shows 60v , which way over the sepcs set by the manufacturer that says it shouldt be over 54,6 v. should i just open it and twist the blue thing till it measures the factory standards voltage? whenever i charge my 48v 13ah litjhum ion battery (with bms), and then i conect the battery to my ebike, the battery apears to be out of charge, i know is not true. the bikes display shows the same, no battery. tested the battery and its perfectly working, what should i do? thax, great videos.
@@TheMatixen If you're not getting a full charge, it's probably because the BMS is shutting down when it sees anything over 54.6V (it's doing its job). It'll probably charge ok for a while when the battery is empty because the voltage sag will bring it down but, as the battery voltage rises, so will the input voltage.
Take the top off and drop the voltage but measure it with a multimeter without it being collected to the battery.
When you're twiddling the blue pots, make sure you know what position they were in - if the voltage doesn't drop, you've got the wrong one so put it back at exactly the same position because the others control the output current.
Nice video about re-configuring the chargers for different voltages but measuring the output off-load is pretty meaningless. What you need to adjust is the voltage while it is connected to your battery and it is charging. Obviously, when charging, the output voltage needs to be higher than then required battery voltage otherwise no current will flow. Apart from that point, great video :)
Adjusting the voltage whilst it's charging is dangerous. When the charger is doing its job, the voltage will always sag to a little more than the battery voltage (obviously, when the current is raised, the voltage will rise). If you adjust the output voltage when it's charging, when the battery is full, the charger voltage will be much higher and it will overcharge the battery. It's always best to adjust the charger via a DVM with no load and then, if you wish, you can calibrate the charger when the battery is fully charged (something I didn't cover in this video to avoid confusion).
@@Vortecks Once again it was a great video showing how you can configure these chargers instead of buying new ones. Many thanks mate and keep up the projects as they are great :)
@@zenzen9131 Sorry if it came across as somewhat demeaning, it wasn't intended that way.
I have to cater for other people who read the comments and, if I hadn't said what I said and be straight to the point, someone would have taken things literally.
Cheers for the comment mate, it is appreciated 😉
Hi, thanks for the video.. But something that I have a hard time with, is with that Term of "20S" "18S" "15S".
My question is because my eScooter charger delivers 55.3V when the output is rated to 54.6V.
I know that 4.2V x 13 gives 54.6V and and I am a bit worried that I am overcharging my eScooter. But when I unplug the charger the scooter battery voltage stays in 55.3V and doesn't return to 54.6V. So my guess is that the battery is actually 3.8V (4.35V charged) instead of 3.7V (4.2V charged) but at this point I can only guess as the eScooter is on guarantee period and I don't want to open it now.
Maybe can you orient me to guess it better? Thanks in advance
*Edit* I am thinking to add an arduino to cut off the power when it reaches 56.4V regardless of the actual max voltage of the battery pack, until the guarantee period is out and I can confirm the actual capacity of the battery pack.
the charger will show higher voltage then it actually charges the pack to, when measured while not connected to the battery. thats normal.
do you have to adjust the cutoff voltage so it knows when the battery is charged?
No, cuttof value is controlled by BMS of the battery, charger will allways output power
I'm trying to keep my 500w ebike charged as I'm riding. I have a 4lb scooter battery that powered on a 750w power inverter. So I thought about plugging the ebike charger in the inverter with just 1 small scooter battery. So I asked the man that works at the battery store he told me since the charger is 48v , he said I need to have 4 small scooter batteries to make it 48v. Do I need 4 batteries or can I just use 1 battery. He said if I use less than 48v it can mess up something. Is that true or false ?? May some 1 tell me the names of the jump starters that has 1000w and more that's all electric and very light weight or the lightest possible like around 23-50 lbs so I can mount it on my ebike ??
If the inverter is 12v and you plug 48v into it, you can say goodbye to it but personally, I wouldn't ride around with mains voltage plugged in, it's dangerous enough riding an ebike without having to worry about fried testicles ☹️
@@Vortecks I think you misunderstood my comment. The inverter is not 12v. The batteries is 12v each. Four batteries connected in series will give or provide 48v. The batteries is only 4 lbs cach. The inverter I have is 750w
@@drrobotnikmeanbeanma Okay......
When you say "750w power inverter" do you mean "controller" which connects to the phase wires and powers the wheel? Typically, a power inverter is something that converts a relatively low DC voltage (12V) into a higher AC voltage (110V / 220V).
As for the 48V charger, I can't quite understand the concept. Does it run on mains voltage and convert it to 48V?
that's pretty cool :P
Interesting video thanks the thing I don't understand is the Chinese make practicaly everything then when it comes to electronics the quality is insanely less or non-existent sometimes they can't write instructions , half the time it's out of the box wired wrong and overall just garbage yet in other countries there are very smart people that find these faults and they post videos or they modify them and they fix them so why aren't we building these products in our own countries. Doesn't make sense to me does it all really come down to money and labour costs because that's pretty pathetic if so , I bet you if they made a ebike controller in Germany it would be mint and it would never break down with premium components that are actually what is listed on the label. Greed is going to ruin the world if it hasn't already. Cheers from Canada
turn a pot all the way while watching, you will need some sort of load. its not going to blow up, so tweek until it stops doing what it is supposed to do. you will have to think a bit. lol
Are you ill Tony mate? Two videos on the trot lol 😂 here why don't you make the battery pack removable? So you can take it home remove the battery pack walk them up the stairs then come back for the bike. Just an idea 💡
The battery is removable and I did make it that way for this reason. The trouble is, the bike (without the battery) weighs 38kg and I now have a bad back so.........
yep, thats the es240j charger.... among its other names
I have a shity old Muddy Fox Hard tail i want to make it electric Can you point me to a E kit thats not pish, I have a few hundred....Thanks....Good vids you have.
What you've got to remember is..... they're all made in China. Most of them are made by one manufacturer and re-sold by many other suppliers.A lot of people swear by Bafang mid-drive & hub motor kits.
@@Vortecks can I cut the male plugs on these and rewire my unique plug? As long as I check polarity?
@@shapan0ipoly Yeah, of course you can but please make sure there's no charge in the power supply before you cut the wires. If you simply cut through them within around 10 mins of the power supply being turned off, it'll short the positive and negative and you will have a large spark (it won't hurt anything but your pride). Leave it switched off for 10 mins, take the protection off the plug and cut the 2 wires individually. Then, you can wire your own plug to it.
@@Vortecks thanks for the tip!
Dumb Yankee here. How much is a quid? I've always wondered when watching british tv. I wondered if it just meant Pound. Like dollar is buck... Your videos are helping me build my bike (designing stage, but I have a plan). I have a good frame. I live in a high crime area, so I'm making hiding the fact it's electrical/shiny. I'll tie some rags around it to make it look crappy and get the best lock I can. It's going to be great! Thank you for recording your progress. I'll have to send you a picture of it when I finish.
I like educating :-)
One quid = £1. A fiver = £5. A tenner = £10. A pony = £25. A ton = £100. Half a monkey = £250. A monkey = £500. A grand is the same as you..... £1,000 (but obviously you're in $).
I like your idea about making it look crappy - Birmingham where I work is like that but, if I attach rags to it, I'd still get robbed because someone would want to sell them too.
@@Vortecks Thank you for the info. I don't think we have any creative names for money. I may be proven wrong if anyone else can think of any. I'm in the USA. I believe the only reason we call dollars bucks is that originally buck skins were used as currency. Two bits is a quarter (25 cents), but only my grandma has ever used that phrase. Peace
@@Vortecks In Canada we have silly names for our money also. Loonie=$1, Toonie=$2, Fin=$5, Ten-spot=$10, QE2=$20, C-Note=$100
@@bobsoft I could understand the others except C-Note. It all makes sense now 😊
"C-note refers to the Roman numeral for 100, which was printed on $100 bills"
Strangely, we don't have a firm understanding of where 'Monkey' (meaning £500) came from. The closest we know is from 19th century India - The term was coined by British soldiers returning from India where the 500 rupee note of that era had a picture of a monkey on it.
this is really helpful for me because i want to make lifepo4 e bike and there aren't too many correct voltage chargers :D
Believe you could even take the one step further "to save money".. And buy the citcutboard with componants and alu box seperately. Just check ali for Ac Dc care converter, and aluminium box ;) that £100 charger will cost you around £15 give or take for shipping
The 4 amp charger in the links above costs $53 delivered and the 2 amp 30 something dollars.
Can you post links to the boards and cases your talking about?
Dont blow yourself up with that China stuff glad you know what your doing sortoff
Great info. But you missed the power supply efficiency that might be very lo as it is a chineese piece of s**t. :)
You need to read also the power drawn from the wall.
If let's say you have 250w written on the board and you set it to 50v 5A (50x5=250) you overdrive it because at an efficiency of say 80% it will draw from the wall 250x100/80=312.5w, overdrivind it on the input by 312.5-250=62.5w
Your calculations are not entirely correct !
You must consider the efficiency of the converter, which is never 100%.
At best it will 95% and average will be some 92% max.
So take the backwards calculation of the current capability with a grain of salt - or at least set a conservative efficiency figure.
12-90v charger for £20? get a server psu i got a second hand 12v 750w for £7 and a 12-80 or 90v boost converter for £10 and you got a variable voltage and current ebike charger that can do 12a if u stick the boost converter on a piece of alluminium or upgrade the mosfets. you can replace the pots and add a watt meter and put it in a case. variable lab bench psu/ebike battery charger/controller tester/whatever the fuk u want it to be.
this is how i been doing it as i have a variety of batteries and stuff
I've done this too, here is your next step.
Add a DPS module then you can charge upto 58 volts with a quick bluetooth command from your phone.
Careful is your middle name :-)
I removed that middle name via deed pole mate, it just wasn't working 😂